Should You Fertilize During Hot Weather?

 

Summer presents gardeners with a dilemma. Plants are still growing, vegetables are producing, flowers are blooming—and yet the thermometer keeps climbing. Is this the right time to fertilize, or could feeding your plants during extreme heat do more harm than good?

The answer is yes...and no.

Whether you should fertilize during hot weather depends on the temperature, the health of your plants, the type of fertilizer you're using, and whether the plants are actively growing or merely trying to survive. Knowing the difference can help you avoid stressing your garden during the hottest weeks of the year.

Plants Under Heat Stress Aren't Hungry

When temperatures remain above 90°F for several days, many plants slow their growth. They conserve energy and moisture rather than producing new leaves or roots. You may notice wilted foliage during the afternoon, slower flowering, or vegetables that seem to pause in production.

During these periods, plants aren't looking for extra nutrients nearly as much as they're looking for water.

Applying fertilizer encourages new growth, but tender new leaves require additional moisture. If the soil is already dry and temperatures are soaring, forcing fresh growth can actually increase stress on the plant.

Think of it this way: asking a heat-stressed plant to produce new growth is a bit like asking someone to run a marathon during a heat advisory.

When Fertilizing Makes Sense

Hot weather doesn't automatically mean you should stop fertilizing altogether.

Continue feeding plants that are:

• Actively growing
• Well-watered
• Healthy and green
• Producing flowers or fruit

Many annual flowers, hanging baskets, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and container plants benefit from light, regular feeding throughout summer because frequent watering washes nutrients from the soil.

Rather than applying large amounts of fertilizer all at once, use smaller doses more frequently.

This provides a steady supply of nutrients without overwhelming the plant.

Fertilize Early in the Morning

Timing matters.

If you need to fertilize during hot weather, apply it early in the morning while temperatures are still cool.

Morning applications offer several advantages:

• Plants are well hydrated.
• Roots absorb nutrients more efficiently.
• Leaves dry quickly if any fertilizer contacts the foliage.
• Less evaporation means nutrients remain available in the soil.

Avoid fertilizing during the hottest part of the afternoon when both plants and gardeners are suffering.

Water Before and After Fertilizing

Dry soil and fertilizer are a poor combination.

Always water thirsty plants before applying fertilizer unless you're using a diluted liquid fertilizer specifically intended for watering.

After applying granular fertilizer, water thoroughly to dissolve the nutrients and move them safely into the root zone.

Proper watering greatly reduces the chance of fertilizer burn.

Use Gentle Fertilizers

Summer is generally not the time for heavy applications of fast-release nitrogen fertilizers.

Instead, consider:

• Slow-release fertilizers
• Compost
• Compost tea
• Fish emulsion
• Seaweed extracts
• Balanced liquid fertilizers diluted according to label directions

These provide nutrients gradually and are less likely to stimulate excessive tender growth during periods of intense heat.

Avoid Fertilizing Newly Transplanted Plants

Freshly transplanted shrubs, perennials, trees, and annuals already have enough to overcome.

Their first priority is establishing new roots—not producing lush top growth.

During hot weather, focus on:

• Deep watering
• Mulching
• Providing afternoon shade if practical

Wait until the plant resumes healthy growth before applying fertilizer.

Lawns Need Special Care

Many cool-season grasses naturally slow or become semi-dormant during hot weather.

Applying heavy nitrogen fertilizers during summer can increase disease problems and heat stress.

Warm-season grasses, such as Bermuda grass, Zoysia grass, Centipede grass, and St. Augustine grass, may still benefit from summer feeding if they are actively growing. Even then, avoid excessive nitrogen during periods of extreme heat.

Follow recommendations for your particular grass species and local climate.

Container Plants Are Different

Plants growing in pots often require more frequent fertilization than those growing in the ground.

Each watering flushes nutrients from the potting mix.

A half-strength liquid fertilizer every one to two weeks often works better than occasional heavy feedings.

Just be sure the potting mix never becomes bone dry before fertilizing.

Watch the Weather Forecast

If possible, postpone fertilizing when:

• Temperatures above 95°F are expected for several days.
• Plants are visibly wilted from drought.
• A prolonged heat wave is underway.

On the other hand, if a period of cooler weather or steady rainfall is approaching, that's often an excellent opportunity to fertilize.

Plants recover more quickly under moderate conditions.

The Bottom Line

The goal of fertilizing is to support healthy growth—not to force it.

During hot weather, healthy, well-watered plants can usually benefit from light feeding, especially vegetables, flowering annuals, and container gardens. Plants suffering from drought or extreme heat, however, need water and relief before they need fertilizer.

Pay attention to what your plants are telling you. A thriving plant may appreciate a modest meal, but a struggling one is asking first for shade, moisture, and patience.

Like good gardening itself, successful fertilizing isn't just about feeding plants—it's about knowing when to feed them.

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The Best Mulches for Every Type of Garden

 

Walk through any thriving garden, and chances are you'll find something covering the soil. Nature seldom leaves bare ground exposed for long. Fallen leaves, pine needles, decaying grasses, and forest litter protect the earth from scorching sun, pounding rain, and drying winds. Gardeners have borrowed this lesson for centuries by using mulch.

Mulch does much more than make a garden look neat. It conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, moderates soil temperatures, reduces erosion, and often improves the soil as it breaks down. The trick is choosing the right mulch for the right place.

Here are some of the best mulch options for different kinds of gardens.

Vegetable Gardens

Vegetable gardens benefit from mulches that gradually enrich the soil while keeping weeds under control.

Straw is one of the finest choices. Clean wheat or oat straw allows water to penetrate easily, keeps fruits like tomatoes and peppers off the soil, and decomposes into valuable organic matter. Be sure to use straw rather than hay, since hay often contains weed seeds.

Shredded leaves are another excellent option. If you collect autumn leaves, store them dry and use them throughout the growing season. They slowly feed earthworms and improve soil structure.

Compost also serves as a mulch while adding nutrients. Spread one to two inches around vegetables, being careful not to pile it directly against stems.

Avoid fresh wood chips directly in annual vegetable beds, as they can temporarily tie up nitrogen near the soil surface while decomposing.

Flower Beds

Perennial and annual flower gardens often benefit from decorative mulches that also improve the soil.

Shredded hardwood bark remains attractive for a long time and resists washing away during heavy rains. It gradually decomposes and enriches the soil beneath.

Pine bark mini nuggets work especially well in beds with shrubs, roses, and established perennials.

For cottage gardens, shredded leaves create a natural appearance while encouraging beneficial soil organisms.

Apply mulch about two to three inches deep, leaving a small gap around plant crowns to prevent rot.

Around Trees and Shrubs

Trees and shrubs appreciate long-lasting mulches that mimic a forest floor.

Arborist wood chips are among the best choices available. Fresh chips containing bark, leaves, and small branches break down slowly, support beneficial fungi, and improve soil over time.

Contrary to old gardening myths, fresh wood chips placed on top of the soil—not mixed into it—rarely cause nutrient problems.

Extend mulch outward as far as practical beneath the tree canopy, but never pile mulch against the trunk. The infamous "mulch volcano" encourages disease, insect damage, and decay. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the bark.

Woodland Gardens

Shade gardens and woodland plantings thrive with mulches that resemble their natural habitat.

Leaf mold—partially decomposed leaves—is perhaps the ideal woodland mulch. It retains moisture beautifully while creating rich, humus-filled soil.

Pine needles also work well beneath acid-loving woodland plants such as azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons, and many native wildflowers.

These materials blend naturally into woodland settings and encourage healthy fungal activity in the soil.

Raised Beds

Raised beds dry out faster than in-ground gardens, making mulch especially valuable.

Compost, shredded leaves, and clean straw all help reduce watering needs while improving soil quality.

Because raised beds are highly managed growing spaces, avoid thick layers that may slow soil warming in early spring. One to two inches is usually sufficient.

Pathways

Garden paths require durable materials that stand up to foot traffic.

Wood chips create comfortable walking surfaces and suppress weeds effectively.

Pine bark nuggets offer an attractive appearance for ornamental gardens.

For permanent pathways, coarse wood chips several inches deep can last for years with only occasional replenishment.

Herb Gardens

Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary, lavender, thyme, sage, and oregano generally prefer excellent drainage.

Use light layers of gravel, pea stone, or small crushed rock around these herbs rather than thick organic mulches. The stone reflects warmth and helps keep stems dry.

For herbs that appreciate richer soil, such as parsley and chives, compost makes an excellent mulch.

Fruit Trees and Berry Bushes

Fruit-bearing plants reward consistent soil moisture.

Wood chips work exceptionally well beneath apples, peaches, pears, blueberries, and blackberries.

Blueberries also appreciate pine bark or pine needles, which naturally complement the acidic soils these plants prefer.

Keep mulch several inches away from trunks and canes to discourage rodents and disease.

Container Gardens

Even containers benefit from mulch.

A thin layer of pine bark fines, compost, or shredded bark reduces evaporation and helps moderate soil temperatures during the heat of summer.

Avoid overly thick layers that may interfere with watering.

Mulches to Use Carefully

Not every mulch belongs everywhere.

• Fresh grass clippings can become slimy and produce unpleasant odors if applied too thickly.
• Dyed landscape mulches are attractive but provide little advantage over natural products.
• Rubber mulch lasts a long time but offers no benefit to soil health and is generally best reserved for playgrounds rather than gardens.
• Plastic sheeting suppresses weeds but prevents rainfall from reaching the soil and contributes nothing to long-term fertility. Organic mulches are usually a better choice for home gardens.

How Much Mulch Is Enough?

For most gardens, two to three inches of mulch provides excellent weed suppression and moisture conservation.

Too little mulch allows weeds to flourish. Too much can prevent air movement and encourage shallow roots or stem rot.

Refresh mulch as it naturally decomposes rather than piling new layers on top year after year.

Let Nature Be Your Teacher

The healthiest forests, meadows, and prairies have one thing in common: bare soil is rare. A protective covering shields the earth, feeds countless organisms below the surface, and creates conditions where plants flourish.

Choosing the right mulch is less about following trends and more about matching the material to the needs of your garden. Whether it's straw in the vegetable patch, arborist chips beneath shade trees, pine needles around blueberries, or compost in raised beds, the proper mulch saves water, builds healthier soil, and reduces maintenance throughout the growing season.

A good mulch is one of the simplest investments a gardener can make—and one that pays dividends season after season.

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The Gardener's Summer Survival Kit

 

 Essential Tips, Tools, and Habits for Thriving Through the Hottest Days of the Year

There comes a point every summer when even the most enthusiastic gardener steps outside at sunrise, feels the warm air already hanging over the landscape, and realizes that the season has changed. The cool optimism of spring has given way to the long, demanding days of midsummer. Flowers fade more quickly. Weeds seem to double overnight. Water disappears from the soil almost as fast as it comes from the hose.

Yet summer is also when gardens reveal their true character. Tomatoes swell on the vine. Butterflies drift among the flowers. Crepe myrtles burst into bloom while hummingbirds dart from blossom to blossom. A well-tended summer garden is not effortless—it is the reward of steady care and wise habits.

Fortunately, surviving the heat does not require working harder. It requires working smarter. Think of the following essentials as your gardener's summer survival kit.

1. A Wide-Brimmed Hat

Every experienced gardener eventually learns that protecting the gardener is just as important as protecting the plants.

A broad-brimmed hat shields your face, ears, and neck from relentless sun exposure. Choose one made from breathable materials with good ventilation. Long sleeves made from lightweight performance fabrics can actually feel cooler than bare skin under direct sunlight while also protecting against sunburn.

If you're comfortable, you'll stay in the garden longer—and enjoy it more.

2. Water—For You and Your Garden

Hydration is not optional.

Keep a large insulated bottle of cold water nearby whenever you work outdoors. Drink before you're thirsty, especially during humid weather.

Your plants also appreciate thoughtful watering rather than frequent sprinkling. Deep, thorough watering encourages roots to grow downward where moisture lasts longer. Water early in the morning whenever possible. Less water is lost to evaporation, foliage dries quickly, and plants enter the heat of the day fully hydrated.

Avoid watering during the hottest afternoon hours unless a plant is showing signs of serious stress.

3. Mulch Is Summer's Best Friend

If there were only one product every gardener should use during summer, mulch would be near the top of the list.

A two- to four-inch layer of organic mulch:

• Conserves soil moisture
• Keeps roots cooler
• Suppresses weeds
• Reduces soil erosion
• Gradually improves soil as it decomposes

Pine straw, shredded bark, wood chips, compost, and leaf mold all make excellent mulches, depending on your landscape.

The difference between mulched and bare soil on a hot July afternoon can be remarkable.

4. Quality Hand Tools

Summer often means quick maintenance rather than major projects.

Keep a small garden tote stocked with essentials:

• Hand pruners
• Garden scissors
• Weeding knife
• Hand trowel
• Gardening gloves
• Plant ties
• Permanent marker for labels

Having everything within reach makes it easy to spend twenty productive minutes in the garden instead of making repeated trips to the shed.

5. Early Morning Is Golden

The old saying is true: "Make hay while the sun shines." Gardeners might adapt it to say, "Garden before the sun shines."

The first few hours after sunrise are often the most productive of the day.

Temperatures are cooler.

Mosquitoes are fewer than at dusk.

Plants are fully hydrated.

The morning light also makes it easier to spot insects, diseases, and weeds before they become major problems.

Many experienced Southern gardeners simply avoid working outdoors after late morning during July and August.

6. A Comfortable Kneeling Pad

It may seem like a small luxury, but a quality kneeling pad quickly becomes indispensable.

Whether planting annuals, pulling weeds, or harvesting vegetables, cushioning your knees and keeping them off hot, damp ground reduces fatigue considerably.

Your back will thank you as well.

7. Shade Cloth for Sensitive Plants

Not every plant enjoys blazing afternoon sun.

Tender vegetables, newly planted perennials, lettuce, spinach, and some tropical plants often benefit from temporary shade during extreme heat.

A simple piece of 30–50% shade cloth can reduce leaf scorch, improve moisture retention, and extend harvests during prolonged hot weather.

Sometimes giving plants just a little afternoon relief makes all the difference.

8. Watch Before You React

Summer often causes gardeners to worry unnecessarily.

Wilted leaves at 3:00 in the afternoon do not always mean a plant needs water.

Many plants temporarily wilt during intense heat, then recover naturally after sunset.

Before watering, check the soil several inches below the surface. If moisture is still present, the plant may simply be responding to heat rather than drought.

Learning to observe before reacting saves both water and plants.

9. Feed Lightly

Heavy fertilization during extreme heat often creates more problems than benefits.

Excess nitrogen encourages lush, tender growth that is more susceptible to drought, insects, and disease.

Instead, use slow-release fertilizers according to label directions or wait until late summer, when temperatures begin moderating, before encouraging vigorous new growth.

Healthy roots are more valuable than rapid top growth during midsummer.

10. Enjoy the Garden

Perhaps the most overlooked item in any summer survival kit is this:

Take time simply to enjoy your garden.

Sit beneath a shade tree with a glass of iced tea.

Watch bees work the flowers.

Listen for the evening chorus of tree frogs.

Notice which plants are thriving despite the heat. Those observations often become next year's best gardening decisions.

Gardening should never become only another chore. Even during the hottest months, there are moments worth savoring.

A Final Thought

Summer reminds us that gardening has always required patience more than perfection. The gardener who works with the season instead of fighting it discovers that even the hottest months have their own quiet rewards.

Protect yourself from the heat. Water wisely. Mulch generously. Work early. Slow down when necessary.

Do those things consistently, and when autumn's first cool morning finally arrives, you'll have more than survived the summer—you'll have a garden that is healthy, resilient, and ready for another beautiful season.

So gather your summer survival kit, step outside while the morning air is still fresh, and enjoy the simple satisfaction that comes from tending the living world one garden at a time.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

How to protect plants in heat waves!

 

When summer turns ruthless and the sun beats down like a forge hammer, your garden doesn't have to shrivel in surrender. Here's what else you can do to protect plants in heat waves—beyond the usual mulch-and-water routine:

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1. Water at the Right Time

• Early morning is best—before 9 a.m. This reduces evaporation and gives roots time to soak in moisture before the heat strikes.

• Water deeply and less frequently to encourage deep root growth.

2. Use Shade Wisely

• Drape shade cloth (30–50% density for most vegetables) over tender crops.

• Use garden umbrellas, lattice panels, or old bed sheets in a pinch.

• Tall plants like corn or sunflowers can also serve as living shade for shorter, heat-sensitive neighbors.

3. Create Windbreaks

• Dry wind worsens heat stress. Use burlap screens or temporary fencing to cut wind exposure without completely blocking airflow.

4. Boost Soil Health

• Add compost to improve moisture retention and nutrient availability.

• Consider adding hydrogels or water-absorbing crystals to potting soil in containers.

5. Skip the Fertilizer

• Avoid synthetic fertilizers during heat waves—these can stress plants further.

• If necessary, apply diluted seaweed or compost tea instead for a gentle tonic.

6. Group Containers Together

• Grouping potted plants provides mutual shading and maintains humidity.

• Move them to shaded spots (east-facing sides, under trees, or porches).

7. Cut Back on Pruning

• Pruning exposes inner foliage to sunlight—best to wait until temps moderate.

8. Use Reflective Mulch or Stones (with caution)

• Light-colored stones or aluminum foil reflect light upward and can slightly reduce surface temps—but only where heat-tolerant plants grow, as this can backfire for tender ones.

9. Monitor for Heat Scorch and Leaf Curl

• Watch for leaf scorch, wilting, or leaf roll—signs that your plants need protection or water adjustments.

• Remove damaged foliage after the heat passes to avoid additional stress.

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Gardens are resilient, but only if we outwit the weather like seasoned field generals. A gardener’s vigilance, with a dash of foresight and some old-fashioned ingenuity, keeps even the most tender shoots from burning out.

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Tired of watering those window boxes and planters?

 

 

Tired of watering those planters and window boxes?

Here are three possible solutions. There could be more, but we’ll begin with these.

1. Add water-retentive gel to the planting mix. These flakes or crystals absorb up to 200x their weight in water, and release it into the soil as needed. This means you have to water less frequently. It also helps to prevent over-watering. Several brands are available on the market.
2. Apply mulch on top of the soil and between the plants. We use worn-out hanging basket and window box liners made of coconut coir. New liners eventually wear out and need to be replaced. Rather than throw the old ones away, tear them into patches and lay them out on top of the soil as small mats. Because they’re compressed, the patches tend to stay together, suppressing weeds and retaining moisture below. Coconut coir is used for other products, too. You may find it in upholstery stuffing.
3. Plant drought-tolerant perennials, small cacti and succulents in your planters. The less often you’d like to water, the more drought-tolerant the plants should be. This is, by far, the best solution, in my opinion. Cacti and succulents can produce beautifully vibrant foliage and flowers. They look rather exotic, as well.

So, consider these solutions when planning your window boxes and planters, especially if you intend to travel this summer.

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The Gardener's To-Do List for August

 

 

 

It's August! At this time of year, many garden chores are common to all regions of the United States. Frankly, the list for this month hasn't changed that much from the last, but there are a few different points to consider. Here they are, though this is not an exhaustive list.

For all gardens

• Avoid overheating! Do your garden chores early in the morning or late afternoon. Heat stroke is a very real danger and should not be ignored.
• Drink plenty of fluids.
  
• Get ready for fall!
• Start flower and vegetable seedlings for transplanting to your fall garden.
• Fertilize when needed. Check for yellowing leaves and slowed growth.
• If using synthetic granular fertilizer, water your garden first, apply fertilizer to moist soil, then water again. This will help to incorporate the amendment into the soil and reduce the risk of fertilizer burn.
• Be on the lookout for insect pests. Pick them off, if possible, and destroy them. If pesticides are necessary, consider organic alternatives. Always read label instructions. 
• Heat and humidity can contribute to plant diseases. Check your garden closely for signs of infection and remove affected plants to the compost bin.
  
• Check your irrigation to make sure you are watering wisely and conserving as much as possible. Adjust as needed. This is especially important in arid regions.
• Add finished compost to your garden beds.
• Turn your compost pile, again.

For vegetable gardens

• Plant vegetable seedlings or starter plants for your fall garden.
• Keep pruning your vegetable plants. Tomatoes, cucumbers and other trellised plants will produce better crops if suckers are pinched off and unnecessary growth is removed.
• Pick some types of fruiting vegetables before they fully mature to prevent the plants from ceasing production. This is especially true of cucumbers!
• Remove spent vegetable plants and compost them.

For flower gardens

• Fertilize your roses, again.
• Deadhead flowers to keep the plants producing.
• Prune coleus, stick the cuttings in fresh, moist potting soil and place them in the shade where they can root and be transplanted to your garden or containers.
• Remove spent annuals and compost them.
• Cut and dry flowers and herbs for later use.
• Plant fall-blooming crocus.
• Make plans to order your spring-blooming bulbs.
  

For lawns

• Check oil level, air filter and tire pressure on your lawn mower before every use.
  
• Water deeply only once or twice per week. Frequent shallow watering encourages shallow root penetration and causes the plants to need more frequent watering. Add watering days if the lawn looks stressed.
  
• Watch for fungus diseases. If you can’t identify them, take samples or photos to your nearby Cooperative Extension Office for diagnosis and recommendations.

For shrubs and trees

• Don’t forget to water them DEEPLY during dry spells.
• Watch for insect pests and treat accordingly.
  
• Remove and burn dead wood.
• Avoid pruning after mid-August.
  

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Junipers turning brown.

Q. I have a lot of juniper ground cover and have a problem of them turning brown after having been in ground for 2 plus years. What can I do? 

A. You need to know the source of the problem before you can remedy it. Here are a few things to consider.

First, your Juniperus species might not be getting enough water. While it's true that junipers are generally drought-tolerant, gardeners often rely too much on drought tolerance, and neglect watering when necessary. There is a point of no return. If junipers show drought stress by exhibiting dull, dry foliage, it's already too late to save them. By the way, the same is true of most conifers.

Second, your junipers might be suffering from a pest infestation. Mite and bagworm populations can easily increase to the point that they kill host plants. Miticides (also known as acaricides) might be effective. Follow label instructions. The best way I've found to control bagworms is to identify the bag-like cocoons early on, remove and destroy them. The cocoons are easy to overlook. They're covered with brown twigs and resemble small pine cones.

Third, your junipers might be afflicted with a type of canker. These diseases are caused by fungi that enter plants through wounds. Affected plants are often already under stress for other reasons. Dying branch tips and weeping wounds are notable symptoms. Fungicides are seldom effective. The best course of treatment is to remove the diseased plant portions. If the disease is advanced, remove the plants and replace them with another species not affected by canker. Fungal spores will continue to be present in the soil.

Return to Juniperus at goGardenNow.com.

Large black worms attacking in large numbers...

1st instar larvae on Vitis rotundifolia

Help again? I was checking the vines this morning and there are small black worms attacking in large numbers the leaves of the scuppernongs and muscadines.  I would assume this is some sort of moth or butterfly larvae, but cannot find suitable information on the internet.  Any ideas would help.  I hate to attempt to get rid of them with the wrong pesticides if I have to use them at all.

They might be Hyalophora cecropia , 1st instar phase. The reason they don't show the coloration and size that you might see in photos of the big, green caterpillars on the internet is due to their immature phase.

I don't think you need to bother getting rid of them. More grape leaves will appear. They won't denude your vines. There are probably enough predators to keep them in check. Some type of BT dust might benefit.

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Got a small yard with lots of shade?

Dwarf Mondo Grass Lawn

Q. I have a small yard that doesn't get much sunlight, and there is a lot of moss. What to do you suggest to get grass growing? I live in Columbia, MD.

A. Forget about grass. You should grow dwarf mondo grass instead. Mondo (Ophiopogon japonicus) is not true grass, but it looks like grass. Mondo performs well in full shade and in slightly moist soil. Maintenance is minimal. Mondo has few pest and disease problems, and tolerates poor soil. Dwarf mondo (O. japonicus 'Nana') leaves grow to 1-1/2 inches to 2 inches long, so mowing is unnecessary.

To learn more about growing mondo, read my article - Mondo Possibilities For Your Landscape.




Return to Ophiopogon at GoGardenNow.com.

That ugly cottony scale.

Icerya purchasi

Q. Since the subject came up and there is a likelihood of that ugly cottony scale this time of year, could you address it too?

A. I'm assuming you are referring to cottony cushiony scale on indoor plants. If you're referring to another, please let me know, though I might suggest the same remedies.

Cottony cushiony scale can afflict many plants including edibles and ornamentals, especially citrus and pittosporum. By sucking sap from plants, they may weaken them to the point of death. At the very least, they suck vitality from plants. Ants feed on honeydew produced by cottony cushiony scale, so they try to protect the scale insects from predators.

Cottony cushiony scale is difficult to control in the adult phase because the cottony cushiony covering protects the little critters from insecticides. If they have infested deciduous plants, spray the plants during dormancy with horticultural oil. Another strategy you should use early in the season is to reduce the ant population. Ant baits or sticky materials applied to plant trunks and branches may help.

A few other insect predators are effective in controlling scale. If ants are controlled, the predators might have a chance to help you out.

Some insecticides such as Malathion can be effective in controlling this scale if applied in spring or fall when young scales are active. Some systemic insecticides might be effective, but check the label to see if the chemical is listed for cottony cushiony scale. Always follow label instructions. Never use systemic insecticides on edible and fruit-bearing plants.

The downside of using chemical pesticides is that they also kill beneficial insects, such as the predators mentioned before. Cottony cushiony scale is indeed a tough insect to control.

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Foam is bubbling out of my Chinese elm. Any ideas?

Q. Foam is bubbling out of my Chinese elm. Any ideas?

A. The foam is called "slime flux." It occurs sometimes when a tree is wounded and sap is exuded. Bacteria growing in the sap causes it to ferment and foam. Insects might be attracted to it to feed. Before long you have a stinky mess. If left untreated, the slime mold can weaken the tree to the point of death.

To treat it, remove any bark that may be covering the wound, then wipe away as much of the slime mold as possible. Brush the area with rubbing alcohol or a dilution of plain household bleach and water - 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. You will probably have to repeat the treatment several times to keep the slime flux in check.

Tree wounds may result from pathogens such as those that cause cankers. More often, mechanical damage from string trimmers, lawn mowers, garden tools and poor pruning cause wounds.

Prevention is the best medicine. Try to keep your plants in good health, and avoid mechanical damage.

Winter gardening tips?

Q. Do you have any winter gardening tips?

A. Yes. Think spring. When you do, you'll be ready for it. Here are some specifics, which should come as no surprise:

• Put your summer garden to bed;
• Reflect on the past year's gardening experience, taking note of your successes and failures to learn from them;
• Dream about something new you'd like to do in the garden, research and plan for it, or forget about it if it won't work;
• Peruse seed catalogs when they arrive in the mail, make a wish-list before you fill out the order forms, then face the fact you don't have room in your garden for all that, and shorten the list;
• Clean and sharpen your tools so you won't be kicking yourself come spring because you didn't do it before;
• Winterize your gas-powered tools, so you won't be kicking yourself come spring when you're taking them to the shop for carburetor repairs;
• Continue adding to your compost pile;
• Read blog articles at GoGardenNow.blogspot.com.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Small-scale Composting for a Raised Bed Patio Garden

Q. I want to make compost for my raised bed patio garden. I live alone, so I don't produce many kitchen scraps. I live in a townhouse with almost no yard. How can I get enough stuff to compost?

A. It seems to me you only need to compost on a small scale. A compost heap or bin will probably be impractical, taking too long to fill, taking up too much space, and possibly offending neighbors. I suggest you chop your fruit and vegetable scraps, pulverize egg shells, then store them in a lidded plastic container - the 45 oz. size like buttery spreads come in - until it's filled. Then bury the contents directly in one end of your patio garden. Cover immediately with a few inches of soil. The next time you have a full container, bury the contents beside the first batch. Eventually you will have a row of compost in the making. As you collect more material, begin your second row, and so forth. Within a few months, you should be able to plant vegetables or annuals directly in your first row of finished compost, then later into the second row, etc. As time goes on, you should have a very fertile patio garden.

Can I dump used coffee grounds in my garden?

Photo by Buenosia Carol from Pexels

Q. Can I dump used coffee grounds in my garden?

A. Instead of dumping used coffee grounds in the trash or washing into the garbage disposal, you can add them to your compost pile. They've been pulverized into tiny bits, so they will decompose rapidly.

You can also sprinkle coffee grounds around acid-loving plants such as azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons, gardenias and blueberries. A quarter-inch application every month or so will help to keep the soil a little on the acidic side.

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