Fence Rows as Wildlife Nurseries

 

There was a time when few farmers looked at a fence row and saw wasted land. The narrow strip of briars, saplings, grasses, vines, and wildflowers between fields was understood to have a purpose. It held the soil together, sheltered livestock from the wind, and quietly raised generation after generation of wildlife. Today, many fence rows have been bulldozed into perfectly clean field edges, but in the process something valuable has disappeared.

A healthy fence row is far more than a boundary. It is a nursery where countless creatures begin their lives.

Nature's Waiting Room

Unlike a freshly mowed lawn or a cultivated field, a fence row offers layers of vegetation. Tall grasses shelter insects. Blackberry thickets provide nesting sites for birds. Young trees give squirrels places to climb, while mature oaks and hickories eventually offer acorns and cavities for owls and woodpeckers.

Every layer creates another home.

Many birds that gardeners enjoy—wrens, cardinals, mockingbirds, towhees, brown thrashers, and eastern bluebirds—depend on shrubby cover during part of their lives. Rabbits hide their young beneath tangled grasses. Box turtles seek refuge beneath leaf litter. Countless native bees tunnel into bare patches of ground or nest inside hollow stems left standing through winter.

A fence row is not empty land. It is an apartment building with thousands of residents.

A Nursery for Beneficial Insects

Gardeners often spend money trying to attract pollinators while overlooking one of the finest insect habitats already available.

Native flowering plants growing along fence rows bloom at different times throughout the year. Goldenrod, asters, ironweed, native sunflowers, milkweed, and dozens of lesser-known species provide nectar and pollen long after cultivated flowers have finished blooming.

These plants sustain:

• Native bees
• Hoverflies
• Lacewings
• Lady beetles
• Assassin bugs
• Parasitic wasps
• Butterflies
• Moths

Many of these insects later move into nearby vegetable gardens and orchards, where they pollinate crops or prey upon pests.

A neat, sterile field edge may look tidy, but it produces little life.

Shelter During Hard Times

Wildlife faces its greatest challenges not during spring but during winter, drought, and severe weather.

Fence rows become emergency shelters.

Dense evergreen vines block icy winds. Hollow stems protect overwintering insects. Fallen logs harbor salamanders, beetles, and fungi. Thick grasses trap snow in northern climates and conserve moisture during southern summers.

Even after heavy rains, animals often retreat to the slightly elevated ground where old fence rows have remained undisturbed for decades.

Without these refuges, many creatures simply fail to survive until spring.

Natural Highways Across the Landscape

Imagine trying to cross several miles of open farmland if you were no taller than a rabbit.

For many animals, open ground is dangerous.

Fence rows serve as travel corridors connecting forests, ponds, streams, and meadows. Foxes, raccoons, opossums, snakes, turtles, and countless small mammals move safely beneath their cover. Birds hop from shrub to shrub instead of flying long distances across exposed fields.

These green ribbons knit together habitats that would otherwise become isolated islands.

When every fence row is removed, wildlife populations become fragmented, making it harder for animals to find food, mates, and new territory.

The Value of "Messy"

Modern landscaping often celebrates clean lines and perfect order.

Nature rarely does.

The fallen branch that seems untidy may become a perch for birds hunting insects. A decaying stump supports fungi that feed insects, which in turn feed woodpeckers. Dead standing trees become nesting sites for cavity-nesting birds and roosting bats.

What appears neglected to the human eye often represents excellent habitat.

This doesn't mean allowing invasive species to take over or permitting dangerous trees to fall across roads. Good stewardship still requires management. But there is wisdom in recognizing that every leaf need not be raked and every thicket need not be cleared.

Building Better Gardens

Even suburban gardeners can borrow lessons from traditional fence rows.

Instead of mowing every inch of the property, consider leaving a narrow border planted with native shrubs, grasses, and wildflowers. Add brush piles in quiet corners. Allow seed heads to remain through winter. Plant hedgerows instead of solid privacy fences where practical.

These simple changes create miniature wildlife nurseries that support birds, butterflies, frogs, reptiles, and beneficial insects.

The result is often fewer pest problems and a garden that feels more alive.

Looking Beyond the Fence

Many old farms still possess fence rows that have quietly grown for a century or more. Some contain native plants that have disappeared everywhere else nearby. Others preserve rare wildflowers, medicinal herbs, or ancient trees that escaped the plow simply because they stood beside an old property line.

These forgotten strips of land are living museums.

As development spreads and agriculture becomes increasingly mechanized, preserving even small pockets of wild habitat becomes more important each year.

The next time you pass an overgrown fence line, resist the urge to see only weeds.

Look a little longer.

Somewhere beneath the blackberry canes, a rabbit may be nursing her young. A brood of quail may be hiding beneath the grasses. Native bees may be provisioning their nests. Caterpillars may be feeding tomorrow's songbirds.

What seems like a neglected boundary may actually be one of the busiest nurseries in the countryside—quietly raising the next generation of wildlife while asking almost nothing in return.

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Grow Your Garden Anywhere

 

Some form of gardening seems to be in everyone’s blood. It might be for the love of beauty, fascination with the world of plants, the feeling of accomplishment or for health benefits. Yet, many feel defeated before they begin simply because they don’t think they have the right space to garden.

Don’t despair. Let me assure you, THERE’S ALWAYS A SPACE TO GROW. From the smallest window sill to the back forty acres, successful gardens can be established. Plants “know” this instinctively. They can take root in the smallest, most inhospitable places and thrive. 

 

Whatever the situation, there are plants to fill any nook, cranny, pot, box, room or yard.

To begin, define your needs, interests and limitations. Are you casting about for ideas? Take a walk through your neighborhood or city to see what others are doing. 

 

Visit public gardens, or make friends and visit their private spaces. Browse the internet. Do you just want something green? Do you crave beauty? Do you want to eat your plants? Write these things down.

Do you prefer certain plant types such as tropicals, succulents, herbs, bulbs, bulbs, or veggies, for example? Make your list. If your space is very limited, make it a short one.

 

Which brings us to assessing your available space. Account for the size, light and temperature exposure, and accessibility. While you’re at it, assess your own limitations. You might not have a lot of time to care for plants, or the mobility to do so. Seek advice. Record your evaluation. You can always find something to satisfy the needs.

With all those things in mind, and having narrowed your scope, select your plants. Browse the internet, thumb through plant catalogs, visit local garden shops, BUT DON’T BECOME DISTRACTED. Keep your plan in mind and your list in hand. Focus, FOCUS, FOCUS!

 

Next, purchase the appropriate supplies: containers, soils, fertilizers and tools.

Oh, and don’t forget to ask for help or do a little research to find answers to your gardening questions. Your local Cooperative Extension office should have plenty of brochures, and the experts there might give personal insights. Blogs like this one are packed with info. Folks sometimes reach me by phone or email through GoGardenNow.com for assistance. YouTube is crowded with videos and insights offered by “half the free world and China.” You won’t be at a loss for help.

From there on out, you’ll have success, make some mistakes, learn more, and have fun. 

 

So Go Garden Now! 

What is insecticidal soap? Can I make it myself?

Q. What is insecticidal soap? How does it work? Can I make it myself?

A. Insecticidal soaps are environmentally friendly formulations made from mineral or vegetable oils that kill soft-bodied insects either by suffocation or destroying their cells. Insecticidal soaps do not leave toxic residues. They must contact the insects to be effective.

Here's a quick and easy way to make insecticidal soap. Mix one cup of cheap vegetable oil with one tablespoon of dishwashing liquid. Do NOT use soaps formulated for automatic dishwashers because they may contain chemicals that can harm plants. Do NOT use soaps with bleach added. Add two teaspoons of the soap mixture per cup of warm water in a plastic spray bottle. Stir thoroughly. Test a bit of the mixture on a small part of the plant to assure that the mixture won't do damage to the plant. Spray only on cloudy days or before dusk. Hot sunlight combined with insecticidal soap can damage plants.

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Landscaping With Native Plants On Spring Island

Coastal South Carolina is dotted with secluded island hammocks.  Many of them are pristine, or appear so.  Spring Island, near Beaufort and Hilton Head, is one.  The history of Spring Island is a fascinating tale of Indians, traders, antebellum life, Northern magnates and modern development, not unlike most of the Low-country.  But Spring Island is unique.  Carefully developed to preserve its natural beauty and seclusion, it's easy for the visitor to believe that nothing much has changed since the 1920s.

We arranged to meet with Thomas Angell of Verdant Enterprises, LLC. for a morning tour of a few of his projects on the island.  Thomas specializes in native plants, creative storm water management and imaginative landscape detailing with custom hardscape construction.

As we traveled down picturesque allees lined with magnificent live oaks, we were practically unaware of nearby residences screened from view by dense native plant growth.  Discrete address plaques barely hinted at what was hidden and growing behind those verdant garden walls.

Our first stop was at the residence of one of the area's leading proponents and experts of natural landscaping.  Unfortunately, she was away and unable to meet with us.  Thomas explained that her home was carefully sited to preserve the magnificent trees on the property, as well as to afford a splendid view of the river and marsh.  The structures do not appear to be imposed on the river bank, but to grow in harmony from it, surrounded by such local beauties as wax myrtle (Myrica cyrifera) and needle palm (Rhapidophyllum hystrix).

Both back and front of the home were beautifully landscaped exclusively with native species.  (You should know that the front of every waterfront home faces the water.  Arrival by land is through the back door. Whether through the front or back door, scrape your boots or shed them.)

An ancient oak provided shelter to blood-root (Sanguinaria canadensis), wild ginger (Asarum virginicum), trillium (T. maculatum), jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum), indian pink (Spigelia marilandica), partridge berry (Mitchella repens), along with colonies of native grasses and ferns.

I was surprised to see the blood-root, wild ginger, trillium, jack-in-the-pulpit, and indian pink, but Thomas informed me that they are actually native to the area.  Botanist and nurseryman, Daniel Payne, owner of NatureScapes Of Beaufort, confirmed it.  Daniel arrived on site unexpectedly to inspect and maintain some of the plantings.  As we walked about, Daniel explained that Beaufort County is one of the most biologically diverse counties in South Carolina, and perhaps in the Southeast, with over 1597 naturally occurring native plant species inventoried to date.

The natural design was "civilized" with some of Thomas's hardscape detailing.  A local soft stone called hardpan was quarried for benches of serpentine or semi-circular patterns.  Because of its porosity, the hardpan was topped with laminated wood seating created by a regional craftsman.

As we toured the site, I commented on a native plant that, so far as I know, is never used elsewhere.  The common names are Devil's Grandmother or Elephant's Foot (Elephantopus tomentosus).  But Thomas had used it quite effectively.  The foliage is attractive, the flowers are charming, and, of course, it grows like a weed.  We agreed that sustainable landscaping using native materials requires that we try to see things through new eyes.  It's really not that difficult or new to see things afresh; all non-native ornamentals were originally weeds from elsewhere.

The owner, Thomas and Daniel had established a display garden nearby with various other native species, and a few regional "heirloom" plants on trial.  A "midden" constructed for the garden rose above a dry stream bed designed to collect and direct storm water to a bog garden.  A pool with flowing water provided habitat for native fresh-water aquatic plants, and also created a refreshing oasis of sight and sound.

Native landscaping involves philosophical discussion.  For example, one might wonder whether or when a native plant should be considered desirable.  Such is the case in this garden with poison ivy.  The typical reaction to poison ivy (Toxicodendron radicans) is to eradicate it.  But Daniel noted one specimen on the river bank which he allowed to remain.  The foliage, he explained, is quite colorful and attractive in the fall while the towering plant provides habitat and the seeds provide food for wildlife.  It grows at some distance from foot paths.  But then, the birds drop the seeds about the landscape to propagate more.  There comes a point when enough is enough and the solution calls for a squirt of herbicide.

Thomas was curious to take a look at some other projects he had completed several years ago.  A quick look now would prepare him for upcoming appointments with the owners.  It was disappointing to see that the plantings had not been properly maintained.  In my opinion, they demonstrated a lack of sensitivity on the part of some maintenance crews, or perhaps a lack of knowledge which can be remedied.  Expanses of lovely native grasses had been mowed like sod.  Soft cushions of billowing shrubs had been flattened at breast height like table tops.  Certainly, landscaping with native plants in naturalistic settings presents a new paradigm that must be studied carefully in order to maintain and appreciate.

Considering these examples of sustainable landscaping, one might assume that a naturalistic planting of native plants is by definition no-maintenance or low-maintenance.  That is not always true.  The level of maintenance depends, as with other types of landscaping, upon the form, function and appropriateness of the whole and its parts.  A building or structure may appear to be unified with the natural surroundings, but it is not actually, and nature is always on the move.  Sooner or later, considerable maintenance is in order.  Nevertheless, landscaping with native plants is a refreshing new concept which time has come.

The following is a partial plant list of species we noted.

Aesculus pavia var. pavia
Amelanchior x Autumn Brilliance
Ampelaster caroliniana
Arisaema triphyllum
Asarum virginicum
Campsis radicans
Carex grayi
Chasmanthium laxum
Clematis catesbyana
Cocculus carolinus
Conoclinium coelestinum
Cornus asperifolia
Dichromena colorata
Elephantopus tomentusus
Erythrina herbacea
Eupatorium purpureum
Eustachys petraea
Fothergilla 'Mt. Airy'
Gelsemium sempervirens
Helianthus hirsutus
Heliotropium curassavicum
Heterotheca graminifolia
Hypericum hypericoides
Ipomoea macrorhiza
Juniperus virginiana 'Brodie'
Krigia dandelion
Lobelia cardinalis
Lyonia lucida
Mitchella repens
Monarda punctata
Myrica cerifera
Nymphea spp.
Passiflora lutea
Quercus virginiana
Rhapidophyllum hystrix
Salvia lyrata
Sanguinaria canadensis
Scuttelaria integrifolia
Serenoa repens
Spigelia marilandica
Stipa spartea
Symphotrichum concolor
Rudbeckia maxima
Ruellia carolinensis
Trillium maculatum
Tripsacum dactyloides
Toxicodendron radicans
Verbena rigida
Viburnum acerifolium
Viburnum obovatum
Vitis rotundifolia
Yucca recurvifolia

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A Close Look At Echeveria

Take a walk in the countryside and look closely at what grows around you.  There are botanical wonders practically beneath your feet.  The best way to study a plant closely is to sense it as an artist.  It doesn't matter whether you think you are an artist.  Take time to discover it entirely.  You'll find that when you come to really know something as it is, your appreciation will grow immeasurably.

Atanasio Echeverría y Godoy was such an artist.  A native Mexican, he accompanied the Sessé and Mociño expedition through Mexico (1787-1803) to inventory the country's flora and fauna.  Echeverría's drawings and watercolors record the minutest details of his subjects with accuracy and sensitivity.  Plant species perhaps considered common by many he rendered notable.

Robert Runyon 1881-1968) was another artist who studied his surroundings meticulously.  A native Kentuckian, he moved to Texas in 1908 after the death of his wife.  By 1910 he had established himself in Brownsville as a successful commercial photographer, devoting his work to familiar subjects, souvenir photos for tourists, and photos of sensational events such as the Mexican Revolution.  Gradually his interest began to include indigenous plants.  He became an expert on the flora of northern Mexico and southern Texas.  In the early 1930s, he began to devote his energies to his interests as a naturalist and aspiring politician.  Runyon published two botanical works, Texas Cacti (1930) and Vernacular Names of Plants Indigenous to the Lower Rio Grande Valley (1938).  J. Frank Dobie, a folklorist and friend of Runyon, said of him, "You have to admire a man like Runyon, who cuts off a little hunk of the world and dedicates a lifetime to its study."

It's fitting that plants of the region bear the names of Echeverría and Runyon.

The genus, Echeveria (pronounced ech-eh-VER-ee-ah), includes about 40 species of plants native to Mexico, Central America and parts of South America.  They are characterized by their thick, succulent leaves arranged in rosettes.  The leaves store water, so they're very drought tolerant. They grow quickly in full sun and in almost any soil type as long as it is slightly acidic or neutral and well-drained.  Sandy or rocky soil is perfect.  The common name, "Mexican Hens-and-chicks", was given because of the plants resemble Sempervivum, which is also called "Hens-and-chicks."  Smaller plants (chicks) that are produced on short side-shoots are clustered very close to the parent plant.

The species bearing Runyon's name is E. runyonii (pronounced run-YON-ee-eye), one of the more attractive and popular members of the genus.  E. runyonii 'Topsy Turvy' is a choice variety.

Echeverias thrive in difficult, dry areas.  Hardiness varies, but they are generally much less cold-hardy than Sempervivum, surviving in USDA climate zones 8 or 9 through 11.  They vary in foliage shape, color and growth height.  Tubular flowers are produced from summer to fall on succulent stems.  Hummingbirds love them.

They are are often used as edging plants, in rock gardens, and in containers.  Gardeners in colder regions can grow them successfully indoors.  Being drought-tolerant, they are excellent for xeriscaping.

Plant Echeverias about 10” to 15" apart in well-drained soil with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.5.  To determine whether your soil is hospitable, take a sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis.

Pint-sized plants usually produce a few "chicks" within the year.  They may be divided and replanted every few years to maintain compactness.  Some species benefit from light applications of a balanced fertilizer.  Let the ground dry between irrigation.

Echeverias are fascinating plants to the eye and to the touch.  With so many ways to grow them, any gardener can find a place to use and enjoy them.

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FAQ: What is xeriscaping?

"Xeriscaping" is a blend of two words to combine their meanings into one concept.  "Xeri" is derived from the Greek word, xeros, meaning dry.  "Scaping" is derived from the word "landscaping."  So the blended word describes a manner of gardening that reduces or eliminates the need for supplemental watering.  Xeriscaping is appropriate for regions that are naturally dry, for areas under water-use restrictions, and for those gardeners who simply want to reduce the expense or environmental impact of additional water use.

"Xeriscaping" is often associated with the accompanying logo.

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Solution Plants For Mucky Problems

A few days ago, I was asked for a solution to a mucky problem.  Water shedding off a roof was being dammed by a concrete walk.  The soil was usually muddy.  The homeowner had been unable to grow much of anything except for Florida Betony (Stachys floridana), a notorious weed.

Florida Betony is a plant in the Lamiaceae or Mint family which is very difficult to control.  It spreads by underground rhizomes and produces tubers that resemble fat white grubs.

Her gardener dug deeply to remove the weed and all its tubers.  Their plan was to install a french drain or dry well to improve drainage, then to add topsoil for a new perennial bed.  But the lot sloped downward from the bed, and they were afraid the topsoil would wash away.  What to do?

Well, yes, a french drain or dry well installed along with a few inches of steel edging inside the bed next to the walk might prevent the topsoil from eroding.  But perhaps there is an easier way.  I suggested that the homeowner turn the area into a rain garden.

Functionally, rain gardens are as natural as puddles and swamps, but they're intended.  It doesn't matter how small or large they may be. They collect rainfall, slow its drainage, allow it to percolate into the soil, and may even refresh subterranean aquifers.  They may also provide habitat for special plant and animal species.

For rain gardens to work and look good, they should be planted with appropriate species.  Lawn grasses usually don't succeed.  I suggested a few plants that would work; enough for the homeowner and her gardener to consider for the moment.

But yesterday, I reflected on a couple of my gardening truisms.

• Find what works in nature and improve it.
• A weed is a plant that is growing in the wrong place, or for which no one has found a use.

So I grabbed my camera, got in my pickup truck and drove along a country road to see what I might see.  I turned my attention to ditches.  Sure enough, I found several examples of plants with ornamental value that would be appropriate for bogs and rain gardens.  Not all were native.

Netted Chain Fern (Woodwardia areolata) - A deciduous fern that usually grows to 18", it's hardy in USDA climate zones 3 through 9.  It performs best in partial to full shade.

Cinnamon Fern (Osmunda cinnamomea) - A deciduous fern that may grow from 36" to 72", is so named because of the tall, cinnamon-colored fertile leaves that emerge in spring.  It's hardy in climate zones 3 through 10, and performs best in partial to full shade.

Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis) - A deciduous fern that grows from 24" to 48" or more.  It's hardy in climate zones 3 through 10, and thrives in full sun to partial shade.

Blue Flag (Iris versicolor) - A herbaceous perennial that grows to 30".  It's hardy in climate zones 4 through 8, and thrives in full sun.  Standing water is not a problem.

Yellow Flag (Iris pseudacorus) - A herbaceous perennial that grows 48" or more.  It's hardy in climate zones 4 through 9, and thrives in full sun to partial shade.  Standing water is not a problem.

Ditch Lily (Hemerocallis fulva) - A popular "heirloom" daylily that's hardy in climate zones 5 through 10.  It performs well in full sun to partial shade.

Cannas (Canna x generalis) - Another popular herbaceous perennial, it's hardy in climate zones 8 through 10.  It performs well in full sun to partial shade.

Lizard's Tail, Water Dragon (Saururus cernuus) - This native, herbaceous perennial is seldom grown for it's ornamental qualities, but it should be.  It's hardy in climate zones 5 through 11.  It performs well in full sun to partial shade, and loves very wet soil.

Swamp Mallow, Hardy Hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos) - The species name sounds like "mosquitos"; both thrive in the same habitat.  A deciduous perennial, it loves full sun, and is hardy in climate zones 5 through 10.  The large flowers appear from mid-summer to fall.   I think that marshmallows were so-named because they resemble the spent flowers of this species.

River Lily (Crinum variabile) - Evergreen strap-like leaves and white or white/pink-striped flowers distinguish this beauty.  It's hardy in climate zones 7 or 8 through 11, and thrives in full sun to partial shade.

Common Rush (Juncus effusus) - Though seldom noticed, this one has lots of potential as an ornamental.  Some with interesting colors and growth habits are becoming available.  It's hardy in climate zones 4 through 10.  Grow it for the foliage, though the flowers are not unattractive.

Thus inspired by my little exploration, I'll occasionally publish lists of other solution plants for muddy places.

I've often declared, sometimes with tongue in cheek, that many weeds might be controlled if they could be eaten.  It's a hungry world.  In fact, that could be the case with Florida Betony.  I've learned that the tubers are edible - said to be delicious eaten raw or sauteed.  Surely there must be some marketing angle.

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What Is Companion Planting?

Photo by rawpixel.com from Pexels

Companion planting is a gardening practice that operates on the idea that certain plants benefit one another when grown in close proximity.  The benefits can be one or several, and they fall into the following categories:

Distraction - Some plants are so attractive to certain pests that they draw the pests away from another crop.  The crop that is desirable to the pests is planted as a diversion and considered expendable so that the crop desired by the gardener is left alone.  It's like throwing ears of dried corn on the ground to keep squirrels out of your bird-feeders.

Suppression - Certain plants produce chemicals that repel pests, so they are planted in close proximity to desirable primary crops to ward off intruders.  This is like surrounding your home with an electric fence or poison ivy.

Symbiosis - Some species benefit mutually by the presence of another.  Interplanting pole beans and corn is a traditional example.   Beans fix nitrogen in the soil that benefits corn.  Corn provides support for the beans to grow upon.  It's kind of like a good marriage.

Nursing - Stronger plants may provide some protection to younger, sensitive crops until they can manage for themselves.  Here in the south, homeowners often plant annual rye grass along with centipede grass seed.  The rye grass germinates very quickly and provides some cover and erosion control until the centipede seed germinates several days or weeks later.

Physical Interaction - The physical characteristics of certain species may be mutually beneficial.  For example, tall-growing species may benefit from cooler soil temperatures provided by low-growing species growing below, while the low-growing plants benefit from the shade of the taller.

Diversity - Perhaps you've noticed while driving through farmland fields sown in strips of alternating crops.  Some farmers have learned that planting many acres of a single crop (called mono-cropping) presents pests with a huge, highly-visible target.  More diverse cropping can attract fewer pests.  The same principle holds true in your garden.

Refuge - Crop-eating pests are generally gluttonous creatures and thoughtless, "whose end is perdition, whose god is the belly."  (Philippians 3:19)  Too intent on the next meal, they aren't very mindful of dangers that may lurk.  Beneficial insects devour crop-eaters, and they lurk.  (That's why we call them "beneficial"; if they were bigger than we, they would be called something else.)  By growing plants nearby that provide habitat and hiding places to beneficials, the crop-eaters may meet their doom.

Companion planting requires some planning.  First, you need to know which plants make good companions; not all do.  Beans, for example, don't get along with onions, but tomatos and onions cooperate.  (Beans finally reconcile with onions in the pot, along with marjoram, lemon juice, olive oil and a dash of salt.)

Other important considerations include growing seasons, germination rates, and harvest times.

Companion planting will introduce you to a new way of gardening that can result in better yields, healthier living, and a lot of pleasure.

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You've Got To Love Gaillardia

Gaillardia, commonly called Blanket Flower or Indian Blanket, is a genus of 12 species along with various hybrids and varieties that is native to the U.S. The genus is named for an 18th century Frenchman, Gaillard de Charentonneau, a plant enthusiast who supported botanical studies. The common name was given due to the bright colors and bold patterns reminiscent of North American Indian fabrics. Gaillardia is a perennial in warmer areas of its range and re-seeds itself as an annual in colder regions.

Blanket Flower caught my eye when I was very young as it grew behind sand dunes on Tybee Island, GA, alongside coastal highways, abandoned railroad tracks and eroded shell middens. It thrives in full sun in USDA climate zones 3 through 10 in well-drained soils that range from mildly acid to mildy alkaline. The flowers attract butterflies, but the plants are unattractive to deer. Gaillardia is more or less disease free. It is heat-, drought- and salt-tolerant, therefore it is well-suited to exposed perennial gardens, rock gardens, wild-flower gardens, butterfly gardens and xeriscaping. Seaside gardeners love them, but they will flourish far from the coast. Gaillardia is favored by native plant enthusiasts. Because it may have some medicinal properties, herb gardeners sometimes include Blanket Flower in their collections.

Prepare the planting bed for Gaillardia by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep. Add enough soil to raise the bed at least 4" above the surrounding ground level. Sand is a fine amendment. This will help to promote good drainage. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil, but it may not be necessary. Gaillardia does well in poor soil. For that reason, fertilizer should be used sparingly. If used at all, incorporate 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant Gaillardia 12" to 18" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Because it likes well-drained soil, plant Blanket Flower with other plants having similar cultural requirements. As the plants mature, fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between waterings.

Depending upon where you grow it, Gaillardia blooms early-summer to early fall. Bloom time is about 8 weeks. While dead-heading (pinching off spent flowers) is not entirely necessary, it may help to prolong the bloom season.

The following are well worth growing:

• Gaillardia x 'Arizona Sun': This was a 2005 All-America Selections Winner. It grows 12" to 14" in height as a low-growing mound. Red/orange flowers tipped with yellow are 3" across and produced from mid-summer to fall.
• Gaillardia x grandiflora 'FanFare': This new cultivar invites praise. The red 3" wide flowers with yellow tips are tubular and trumpet-shaped.
• Gaillardia x grandiflora 'Goblin' is an old favorite variety of a popular native plant, it grows up to 12" in height as a low-growing mound. You can't go wrong with this one.
• Gaillardia x grandiflora 'Oranges and Lemons': Produces lots of yellow and orange flowers over a very long season.

Maybe it's because I grew up with it, or because I have grown to appreciate its adaptability, but I can't praise Gaillardia enough. It is native, sun-loving, heat-tolerant, drought-tolerant, attractive to butterflies, unattractive to deer, long-season blooming, re-seeding, practically disease-free and thrives across a very wide range of climate zones. What more can I say? You've got to love it.

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Taking Care Of Beesness

With renewed interest in things natural, more folks are thinking of planting gardens to attract wildlife. Birds and butterflies are particularly desired, but many other critters are overlooked; bees, for example. Perhaps they are neglected because they are so small and barely noticeable, or perhaps it is because some can sting and be very noticeable if disturbed. But bees can use a little help, and by helping them they will help you.

Bees are important for pollination. When they forage for nectar they brush against flower pollen and carry some of it with them. As they visit other plants, they deposit some of the pollen. Receptive plants are thus pollinated and fruit is formed. Without bees, our dinner tables would be nearly bare.

Life is tough for bees. Food and water can be scarce. They are food for various other hungry creatures including winged hunters and parasites. Beetles and moths destroy their homes. Toxic pesticides poison flowers with disastrous results. For honeybees, just one sting meant to protect themselves and their brood means certain death. Some think that cell phone signals confuse them so they can't find their ways home. They need safe havens. You can do so by providing them with pesticide-free gardens planted with nectar-producing plants. Bees need water, too.

Bird-watching is a popular past-time, but bee-watching can also be fun. A bee-keeping friend of mine tells me he can sit and watch his hives for hours of learning and enjoyment. I know its true because I used to keep bees myself.

I love to watch them searching among flowers. Our bird-bath also serves bees who line the edge of the water on hot summer days for refreshment. It has gently sloping sides so the bees can gather next to shallow water without falling in over their heads.

You may wonder whether attracting bees invites danger since they can sting. You must realize that not all bees pack a punch. Even those that do are usually too intent on sipping nectar or otherwise going about their bees-ness to bother us. Seldom do they notice our presence beyond passing glances. Even if threatened they usually issue a warning "fly-over buzz". So you can plant a bee garden and enjoy their presence as you would other wildlife; invite them, feed them, water them, but don't try to handle them.

Here, then, for your consideration is a partial list of perennials and groundcovers that attract bees. The descriptions are brief, but I hope it will be helpful.

Abelia x 'Rose Creek'. This is a lovely mounding shrub that makes a terrific groundcover when planted in groups. Evergreen foliage on red stems. Produces loads of attractive white flowers throughout the growing season. Grows 24" to 36" in height. Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.

Achillea spp. Also known as Yarrow. Fragrant gray-green lacy foliage. White, rose, yellow, gold flower clusters from mid to late summer. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 3-10. Grows to 36" in height according to species.

Actaea racemosa. Also known as Bugbane. Fern-like foliage. Frothy white flower plumes on 5' stalks in summer. Partial to full shade in USDA climate zones 3-9.

Ajuga reptans. Also known as Carpet Bugleweed. Bronze to variegated foliage. Blue flowers on short spikes in spring. Full sun to full shade. USDA climate zones 3-9. Well-drained soil. Grows to under 6".

Allium spp. and ornamental hybrids. Also known as Ornamental Onion. Lovely globe-shaped flower clusters in spring to summer. Full sun to partial shade. Color and size varys by variety. USDA climate zones 4-9. Well drained soil. Plant bulbs in fall.

Armeria maritima. Also known as Thrift or Sea Pink. Evergreen spreading clumps of grassy foliage. Dark pink, ball-shaped clusters. Blooms spring to fall. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 3-8. Grows to 12" in height.

Asclepias tuberosa. Also known as Butterfly Weed. Clusters of bright orange flowers attract butterflies in summer. Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-10. Grows to 24" in height.

Aster spp. Small, colorful, daisy-like flowers late summer to fall. Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9 and height varies according to species.

Astilbe spp and hybrids. Also known as False Spirea. Frothy flower plumes in colors ranging from white, pinks, reds, lavenders. Partial to full shade in USDA climate zones 3-8. Height varies according to species.

Carex spp. Also known as Japanese Sedge. Evergreen, grass-like foliage green or variegated. Mounding to spreading habit. Moist soil. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 5-9. Grows to 12" in height.

Cotoneaster spp. Pronounced "co TOE nee aster." Spreading groundcover shrubs. Evergreen to semi-evergreen foliage. Small flowers like apple blossoms in spring followed by pink or red fruit. Full sun to light shade in USDA climate zones from 4-10 and height to 18" depending upon species.

Coreopsis spp. and hybrids. Also known as Tickseed. Deciduous oval to thread-like foliage with daisy-like flowers in yellow or pink in summer. Full sun to light shade in USDA climate zones and height to 8" to 18" depending upon species.

Crinum spp. Large plants with strap-like foliage in the Amaryllis family. Large clusters of white to pink flowers in summer. Full sun in USDA climate zones 8-11. Grows to 48" in height. Bulbs planted in spring.

Calamintha grandiflora. Also known as Calamint. Lavender blue flowers on mint-like leaves from spring to fall. Aromatic foliage. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 5-9. Grows to 24" in height.

Crocosmia. Also known as Montbretia. Red, orange to yellow iris-like flowers on long stems in summer. Sword-like foliage. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 6-9. Grows to 48". Plant spring bulbs.

Echinacea purpurea and hybrids. Also known as Coneflower. Pink/purple, white, orange or yellow flowers spring to late summer. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 3-8. Grows 18" to 48" in height according to species.

Geranium spp. and hybrids. Also known as Cranesbill or Hardy Geranium. Mound-like clumps of evergreen foliage. Flowers in red, white, pink, blue shades spring to summer. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9. Grows to 24" in height.

Heuchera spp. Also known as Coral Bells or Alumroot. Low-growing clumps of variegated foliage in green to bronze colors with spikes of frothy white, pink or red blooms in spring and summer. Many new varieties introduced. Full sun to shade in USDA climate zones 3-8. Grows to 18" in height.

Hypericum calycinum. Also known as St. John's Wort or Aaron's Beard. Evergreen to semi-evergreen foliage with buttery yellow foliage in spring with some re-bloom into summer. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 5-9. Grows 12" to 18" in height.

Lamiastrum galeobdolon. Also known as Yellow Archangel. Evergreen silver-variegated foliage with yellow flowers in spring. Spreading groundcover. Full sun to shade in USDA climate zones 3-9. Grows to 15" in height.

Lantana spp. and hybrids. Deciduous to evergreen, depending upon climate zone. Upright to spreading shrubby perennial. Fragrant foliage and clusters of often multi-colored flowers spring until frost. Flower color ranges from white, yellow, orange, pink, lilac, purple, red. Full sun in USDA climate zones 7 - 11 and grows 12" to 60" in height according to species.

Lavandula angustifolia. Also known as Lavender. Compact shrub-like perennial with fragrant evergreen grayish foliage. Fragrant lavender to purple flowers summer to fall. Full sun in USDA climate zones 5-9. Prefers alkaline soil with low fertility. Grows 18" to 20" in height.

Leucanthemum x. superbum 'Becky'. Also known as Shasta Daisy. 2003 Perennial Plant of the Year. White daisys with yellow centers from summer to fall. Full sun to light shade in USDA climate zones 4-9. Grows to 36" in height.

Monarda didyma. Also known as Bee Balm. Tall, fragrant perennial of the mint family. Crown-like cluster of white, pink, red, purple flowers in spring and summer. Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9. Grows to 48" in height. Prefers moist soil.

Nepeta spp. and hybrids. Also known as Catmint. Many species are perennials. Nepeta 'Walker's Low' is favored, 2007 Perennial Of The Year. Heart-shaped, gray-green foliage with purple flowers from late spring to frost. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-7. 'Walker's Low' grows 30" to 36" in height.

Perovskia atriplicifolia. Also known as Russian Sage. 1995 Perennial Plant Of The Year. Deciduous to sem-evergreen shrubby perennial. Fragrant gray-green foliage. Ethereal light blue flowers from mid-summer to fall. Full sun in USDA climate zones 5-9. Grows 24" ('Little Spire') to 36" in height.

Phlox nivalis 'Eco Flirtie Eyes'. Also known as Trailing Phlox or Florida Phlox. Trailing habit. Evergreen, needle-shaped foliage. Pink to lavender flowers in early spring. Long bloom period. Full sun in USDA climate zones 5-9. Grows to 10" in height and spreads 24" to 36".

Phlox subulata. Also known as Thrift or Creeping Phlox. Pink, red, white, lavender flowers in early spring. Tolerates a wide range of soil conditions. Full sun in USDA climate zones 3-9. Grows 4" to 6" in height. Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Rosmarinus officinalis. Also known as Rosemary. Evergreen, fragrant, needle-like foliage. White, pink or light blue flowers repeatedly. Full sun in USDA climate zones 7-10. Grows to 48" in height.

Rudbeckia fulgida var. 'Goldsturm'. 1999 Perennial Plant Of The Year. Also known as Black Eyed Susan or Gloriosa Daisy. Yellow daisy-like blooms with deep brown centers from mid-summer to fall. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 5-9. Prefers moist soil, but tolerates drought. Grows 24" to 36" in height.

Salvia spp. One of my favorites is S. nemorosa. Also known as Perennial Sage. Varieties include 'Blue Hill' or 'Blauhugel', 'Caradonna' (2000 International hardy Plant Union Award), 'East Friesland' or 'Ostfriesland', 'Marcus' (PP# 13322), 'May Night' or 'Mainact' (1997 Perennial Plant Of The Year), 'Pink Friesland' (PPAF), and 'Snow Hill'. Deep green to gray-green foliage with long-lasting flowers in shades from white, pink and purple. Long-lasting blooms from late spring. Re-bloom after cutting. Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-8. Grows to 18" in height.

Scabiosa columbaria 'Butterfly Blue'. 2000 Perennial Plant Of The Year. Also known as Pincushion Flower. Light blue flowers from summer to fall. Cutting increases blooming. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 3-9. Grows 12" to 18" in height.

Sedum spp. Also known as Moss or Stonecrop. Succulent foliage of various shapes and colors. Flowers in shades from yellow, pink to red. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9 and grows from 4" to 30" according to species.

Thymus spp. Also known as Thyme. Aromatic, evergreen foliage, green to variegated. Lilac, white, pink, red flowers in summer. Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9. Grows to 4" according to species. Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Verbena spp and hybrids. Aromatic green foliage with large clusters of red, pink, purple flowers spring through fall. Spreading habit. Full sun in USDA climate zones 6-10. Grows to 12" in height according to species.

Veronica. I really like Veronica penduncularis 'Georgia Blue.' Evergreen foliage turns bronze in fall. Blue flowers in spring. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9. Grows 3" to 6". Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Because space is limited, I can only name a few other perennials and ground covers that attract bees: Acanthus, Agastache, Alstroemeria, Anthemis, Campanula, Digitalis, Echinops, Erigeron, Erysimum, Gypsophila, Helenium, Helianthus, Helichrysum, Hesperis, Inula, Knautia, Kniphofia, Lamium, Lathyrus, Liatris, Ligularia, Lobelia, Lupinus, Lychnis, Lythrum, Malva, Mentha, Oenothera, Origanum, Paeonia, Penstemon, Potentilla, Pulmonaria, Saponaria, Sidalcea, Solidago, Stachys, Stokesia, Tanacetum, Thalictrum, Tiarella, Trifolium and Verbascum.

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