Build a Pollinator Paradise

 

There was a time when every country lane, hayfield, and cottage garden hummed with life. Honeybees drifted lazily from blossom to blossom, butterflies floated through the summer air, and native bees disappeared into flowers before most people even noticed they were there. Today, many of those familiar visitors are less common, but every gardener has an opportunity to help.

The good news is that creating a pollinator paradise doesn't require acres of land or an elaborate landscape design. A sunny flower bed, a few containers on the porch, or even a small corner of the yard can become an oasis for the creatures that keep our gardens—and much of our food supply—growing.

Why Pollinators Matter

Nearly every gardener owes a debt of gratitude to pollinators. Bees, butterflies, moths, hummingbirds, beetles, and even certain flies transfer pollen from flower to flower, making it possible for fruits, vegetables, herbs, and many ornamental plants to produce seeds and fruit.

Without these industrious visitors, tomato vines would set fewer tomatoes, squash plants would produce fewer squash, apple trees would bear smaller harvests, and countless wildflowers would gradually disappear.

A garden filled with pollinators is usually healthier, more productive, and far more interesting to spend time in.

Plant Flowers From Spring Through Fall

One of the greatest gifts you can give pollinators is a continuous supply of nectar and pollen.

Rather than having one spectacular flush of bloom followed by months of little color, choose plants that flower in succession throughout the growing season.

Early spring might feature:

• Columbine
• Salvia
• Penstemon
• Native phlox

Summer favorites include:

• Coneflowers
• Black-eyed Susans
• Bee balm
• Blanket flower
• Lavender
• Zinnias

Late-season bloomers become especially valuable as insects prepare for winter:

• Goldenrod
• Asters
• Joe-Pye weed
• Sedum 'Autumn Joy'

The result is a garden that remains colorful while providing dependable food for beneficial insects for months.

Plant in Groups

A single flower tucked here and there is difficult for pollinators to notice. Large drifts or clusters of the same plant create a colorful beacon visible from much farther away.

Instead of planting one coneflower between unrelated shrubs, consider planting seven or nine together. The visual impact is greater, maintenance becomes easier, and pollinators are far more likely to visit.

Nature often plants this way. We simply imitate her.

Include Native Plants

Native flowers evolved alongside native insects over thousands of years. Many specialist bees depend upon particular native plants to complete their life cycles.

That doesn't mean your garden must consist entirely of native species. Traditional cottage garden favorites, herbs, annuals, and flowering shrubs all have their place.

A balanced garden often combines the beauty of old-fashioned ornamentals with the ecological value of native plants.

Add Herbs

Some of the finest pollinator plants are already growing in kitchen gardens.

Allow a few herbs to flower rather than harvesting every stem.

Excellent choices include:

• Thyme
• Oregano
• Basil
• Mint
• Chives
• Dill
• Fennel

These flowers become magnets for bees and beneficial insects while adding fragrance and texture to the garden.

Avoid Broad-Spectrum Insecticides

Many insecticides don't distinguish between harmful insects and beneficial ones.

If treatment becomes necessary, use targeted products, apply them only when needed, and avoid spraying flowers while pollinators are actively feeding. Evening applications, after bees have returned to their nests, are generally less disruptive than spraying during the middle of the day.

Integrated pest management—combining healthy plants, careful observation, beneficial insects, and selective treatments—often produces better long-term results than routine spraying.

Provide Water

Pollinators need fresh water just as birds do.

A shallow dish filled with pebbles or small stones gives bees and butterflies a safe place to land while they drink. Refresh the water regularly to keep it clean and prevent mosquitoes from breeding.

Even this simple addition can greatly increase activity around your garden.

Leave a Little Wildness

Perfectly tidy gardens aren't always the most welcoming to wildlife.

Many native bees nest in bare patches of soil. Hollow stems provide winter shelter for beneficial insects. Fallen leaves protect butterflies and other overwintering species.

You don't have to abandon neatness altogether. Simply allow one quiet corner of the landscape to remain a little less manicured. Nature often rewards that small act of restraint.

Think Beyond Flowers

Pollinator gardens are beautiful because they become living communities.

Birds arrive to feed their young. Butterflies lay eggs that become caterpillars. Dragonflies patrol the air. Lady beetles help control aphids. Hummingbirds dart between blossoms like tiny emerald jewels.

Soon the garden becomes more than a collection of plants. It becomes a place where life flourishes.

The Garden Comes Alive

Building a pollinator paradise isn't about chasing perfection. It's about creating abundance.

Every flower planted, every herb allowed to bloom, every shallow water dish, and every patch of native wildflowers becomes an invitation to life. Before long, the quiet garden begins to hum again with bees, flutter with butterflies, and sparkle with hummingbirds.

In helping these remarkable creatures, we also enrich our own gardens. Their presence reminds us that the finest landscapes are not merely admired—they are alive.

Whether you have a sprawling country garden or a handful of pots on a sunny porch, you can help restore that ancient partnership between flowers and pollinators. One blossom at a time, your garden can become a refuge where great gardens—and thriving ecosystems—begin.

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Planting Thyme from Seed: A Steady Herb for the Faithful Garden

  

Thyme does not clamor for attention. It hugs the soil, keeps its fragrance close, and asks only for sun and decent drainage. Yet from that modest posture comes one of the most dependable herbs a gardener can grow.

It has flavored kitchens and medicinal cabinets for centuries. It has crept between stepping stones and softened hard edges in formal gardens. And once established, it stays put like an old friend who knows his place.

If you want something showy, plant dahlias. If you want something faithful, plant thyme.

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Choosing the Right Thyme

Most gardeners begin with Common Thyme (Thymus vulgaris), the classic culinary variety. But there are others — lemon thyme, creeping thyme, woolly thyme — each with its own habit and use.

For cooking, stick with Thymus vulgaris. For groundcover between stones, creeping types serve well. The principles of growing from seed are largely the same.

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Starting Thyme from Seed

Thyme seeds are small. Very small. Treat them accordingly.

When to Start

• Start indoors 8–10 weeks before last frost

• Soil temperature: 65–75°F

• Germination: 14–21 days (patience required)

How to Sow

• Use a fine, well-draining seed-starting mix

• Press seeds lightly onto the surface

• Do not bury deeply — they require light to germinate

• Mist gently to avoid displacing them

Keep soil lightly moist but never soggy. Excess moisture is thyme’s enemy from the beginning.

When seedlings are large enough to handle, transplant into individual pots. Harden off before planting outdoors.

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Planting Outdoors

Wait until danger of frost has passed.

Thyme demands:

• Full sun (at least 6–8 hours daily)

• Excellent drainage

• Slightly alkaline to neutral soil (pH 6.5–8.0)

If your soil is heavy clay, amend generously with sand or gravel. Raised beds work beautifully. In fact, thyme thrives where other plants sulk.

Space plants 12–18 inches apart. They will fill in gradually.

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Watering and Feeding

Here is where many gardeners err.

Thyme prefers lean conditions. Overwatering and overfeeding produce floppy growth and weaker flavor.

• Water sparingly once established

• Allow soil to dry between waterings

• Avoid heavy nitrogen fertilizers

If you must fertilize, do so lightly in early spring with compost.

Remember: herbs grown a little “hard” develop stronger essential oils. Comfort makes them soft.

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Pruning and Maintenance

• Pinch tips regularly to encourage bushy growth

• Harvest often once established

• Trim back lightly after flowering

In colder climates (Zones 5–6), mulch lightly for winter protection. In warmer regions, thyme often behaves as a small woody perennial shrub.

After 3–4 years, plants may become woody. Replace or divide to keep them vigorous.

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Growing Thyme in Containers

Thyme excels in pots:

• Use a gritty potting mix

• Ensure drainage holes

• Avoid overwatering

A clay or terracotta pot suits it well — dry roots, warm soil, full sun.

Placed near the kitchen door, it saves steps and elevates supper.

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Harvesting

Harvest once plants reach 6 inches tall.

• Cut sprigs in the morning after dew dries

• Avoid cutting more than one-third of the plant at a time

Thyme dries beautifully. Hang small bundles in a well-ventilated area, then strip leaves for storage.

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Why Grow Thyme?

• Drought tolerant

• Deer resistant

• Pollinator friendly

• Long-lived perennial

• Intensely aromatic and useful

It is the herb of stone paths and iron kettles. It belongs in old gardens and modern ones alike.

And once you have it established, you will wonder why you ever went without.

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Ready to Sow?

If you’re planning your herb garden this season, start with quality seed. Strong beginnings matter — even for humble plants.

Explore the selection of thyme seeds and plants at GoGardenNow.com, and plant an herb that will serve your kitchen and your garden faithfully for years to come.

Sow it once. Harvest it often.

Coreopsis - The Cheerful, Easy-Care Plant for Summer Color!

 

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Homes For The Buzzin' Bees

"There ain't no words for the beauty, the splendor, the wonder."

Photo by Dominicus Johannes Bergsma/Wikimedia Commons.

Gardening is not just about growing pretty flowers and delicious foods. It’s also about enjoying nature, and some of the most fun to watch are the little flying creatures that hover and dart about. There are, of course, the butterflies, honeybees and bumblebees. But most interesting – to me, anyway – are the tiny little bees. Some are brown. Some black. Some iridescent. These are the native bees, sometimes called sweat bees, cutter bees, or mason bees. They are essential to good pollination. It feels good to provide a place where they like to hang around.

It’s well-known that flowers provide bees with food. That’s they real reason they’re there. Their acts of pollination are actually happy accidents that they perform while brushing against pollen in their quests. 

But apart from planting native wildflowers, we can also attract them by providing homes. Many of us think of bee hives when we think of homes for bees...or hair.

I let it fly in the breeze

And get caught in the trees

Give a home for the fleas in my hair

A home for fleas

A hive for the buzzin' bees

A nest for birds

There ain't no words

For the beauty, the splendor, the wonder

Of my...

Hair, hair, hair, hair…

-The Cowsills

You know where I'm coming from. But that’s not it. Those little bees nest in surprising little hideaways like tunnels excavated by beetles, crevices, broken branches, holes in the ground, rotten logs, abandoned lumber, old reeds and hollowed-out stems. Some of which we can provide with ease. 

Photo by Beatriz Moisset/Wikipedia Commons

Here are some simple ideas:

• Find old logs, and drill deep, horizontal holes of various diameters – between 1/16 inch and 1/2 inch – in the ends.
• You can do the same with dead trees, but don’t drill into living ones.
• Gather hollow reeds about 6” to 8” long. Miscanthus spp., Arundo donax and pampas grasses are good examples. Bundle them together, and tie with twine. Place them horizontally around the garden in clay pots, or hang them under the eaves of your tool shed to keep them dry. 
• If you’re ambitious, construct little structures resembling bird houses with the fronts removed, and stuff them with the reeds.
• You can do the same with lengths of old Rubus canes, Sambucus stems or Chinaberry (Melia azedarach) sticks.
• Bamboo canes will serve well, and are longer lasting, but the segments might need to be reamed out with a drill to make the nesting spaces deep enough.
• If you intend to use old lumber, avoid pressure-treated woods which could be toxic to bees.

These are things that you can do with your kids, teaching them something about nature and to be kind to creatures.

To be sure, there are purists out there who would say, “Oh NO! That’s not the way to do it! What a terrible idea.” But, frankly, I’ve never known bees to follow all the rules. Some drill holes in my house, stored lumber, and even try to nest in my electrical outlets. I say, “Don’t stress out about it.” Have fun. Do good.

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Have you considered growing a pollinator garden?

Have you ever considered making a place in your landscape specifically for native pollinators? Doing so can help preserve those that are struggling to exist. You might not think of pollinators such as bees,  wasps and butterflies as being under threat, but many are. We usually blame overuse of insecticides as being the culprit, but there are others. Diseases, parasites and predators take their toll. By providing a pollinator-friendly habitat, you help them thrive, as well as enjoy their presence. You also gain a sense of pride in doing good for the environment.

You don't need much space to establish a pollinator garden. A few plants on your deck or patio can attract them. If you have a large area available, by all means, use it.

Pollinators have three basic needs, common even to you and me - food, water, and shelter for places to hide and begin their little families.

Food Sources - Host Plants

We picture bees and butterflies feeding on nectar from flowers, but juvenile pollinators don't do that. Young ones feed on stems and foliage, and not always of the same plants. Proper food supplies should include both.

To determine exactly which you'll need to plant may require a bit of study on your part. Good plants for pollinators include aromatic herbs, annuals, perennials, and even some weeds. GoGardenNow.com features plant collections for butterflies and other pollinators. Plant a wide variety. Select species that will provide blooms throughout the growing season. Research the species of pollinators commonly found in your area, then provide the foods they enjoy.

Remember that native pollinators often prefer native plants, so be sure to include some in or around your garden. It's not a good idea to gather plants from the wild. Some may be endangered and protected. Sow seed where possible. For mature plants, search for those nurseries that specialize in native species. There are a growing number of them. Native Plant societies can help you find sources.

Water

Pollinators need water. You'll often find bees gathered along the edges of bird baths. Butterflies will cluster around mud puddles, birdbaths, and even dung. Be sure to provide water sources for them. Still, shallow water is best. You needn't provide the dung.

Shelter, Nesting Sites and Materials

You'd be surprised at how resourceful little creatures can be when it comes to establishing homes.

That aside, pollinators will burrow in plant stems, hide in flower pots, small brush piles, and even nest in bundled drinking straws. Dryer lint, cotton balls, and the mud from puddles will be used for building materials.

After providing for your pollinators' needs, please be careful not to lure them to destruction. By that I mean, avoid using pesticides and herbicides in or around your pollinator garden. Both organic and synthetic pesticides can be harmful. Herbicides can kill the very plants you provided for pollinators' benefit.

Pollinator gardens fascinate young and old, but especially the young. Remember how enthralled you were as a child while watching butterflies and bees? Pass the feeling along to your own children, grandchildren, or even to kids in the neighborhood. You and they will be delighted that you did.

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5 More Bee-Friendly Perennials for Your Garden

These will also thrive just about anywhere.

Trudie Styler – actress, producer and director – is quoted as saying, “I have a huge belief in the importance of bees, not just for their honey, which is a healing and delicious food, but the necessity of bee colonies that are vital to the health of the planet.” Quite so.

Why bees? 

Well, because they are essential in the web of life. How could we live without them? They contribute to the well-being of so many living things by going about their beesness of pollinating.

Did you know that there are over 4000 species of native bees in the United States? The honeybee – perhaps the first that comes to mind – isn’t even native to our continent, but was introduced. There are so many others that are less well-known, but no less worthy.

Bees need help.

In a previous article, I noted that bees are at a disadvantage. Loss of habitat, mites, pesticides, wax moths, and colony collapse disorder afflict them. They could use our help.

We can help in various ways. I listed several before. One of the easiest is to plant their favorite flowers.

Bees need flowers!

Flowers provide what bees need to live. They’re not particularly picky, but seem to prefer some flowers more than others, especially those that provide lots of pollen and nectar. I listed five of their favorites in my last article. Here are five more.

Ajuga – also known as Bugleweed, Carpenter's Herb, Sicklewort, or Middle Comfrey – is native mostly to Europe, Asia and Africa. It’s a low-growing ground cover that flowers in early spring with short flower spikes in various shades of blue. Its foliage attracts the eye even when the plant is not in bloom. The dense mat suppresses weeds, so we like it in borders and as a lawn substitute. It grows well in zones 3-9.

CreepingPhlox – known as Thrift, Creeping Phlox, Moss Phlox – is superb as a ground cover in perennial gardens and borders, rock and alpine gardens. Of course, it is bee- and butterfly friendly. Plant it beside terraces and between stepping stones for eye-popping color in spring. Colors include blue, pink, lavender, white, red and striped. Creeping Phlox is right at home anywhere in climate zones 3-9.

Dendranthema – familiarly known as “hardy garden mum” – is a bright-flowered plant with blossoms shaped like large daisies. Colors vary, but my favorite shade is pink. It’s what you might expect to see in an English cottage garden, or around your great aunt’s back door. Maintenance is minimal. It blooms in late summer or fall. Dendranthema thrives in USDA climate zones 5-9.

Dianthus (Cheddar Pinks) flowers look like little carnations, and smell like them, too. These low-growing, clump forming perennials bloom spring through summer. Evergreen, blue-green linear foliage is attractive even when the plant is not in bloom. They’re quite easy to grow. Dianthus performs well in climate zones 3-9.

Sedum (Stonecrop) attracts bees and butterflies, to the surprise of some. Maybe they’re overlooked because sedum grows so close to the ground. At any rate, sedum should be included in your pollinator-friendly collection. Sedum is a remarkable ground cover that fills cracks and crevices in rock gardens, and spills out of containers. It grows in the most surprising places. It’ll thrive in USDA climate zones 3-9.

Don’t fear the bee.

Fear of bees is called melissophobia. (It sounds like a disease from a pharmaceutical company or tort attorney’s ad.) Fact is, though, you’re probably not so much afraid of bees as you are of bee stings. But, take my word for it; bees are not interested in you. They only sting in self-defense or to protect their homes. If you leave them alone, they’d rather leave you alone.

By intentionally planting a pollinator-friendly garden, you’ll not only be enhancing the beauty of your space, but promoting the well-being of nature, from the little creatures below to those that buzz above.

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5 Bee-Friendly Perennials for Your Garden.

They’ll Grow Just About Anywhere!

Gardens and wildlife just seem to go together, sometimes too much so. (Deer and rabbits come immediately to mind.) Thoughts of flowers, birds and butterflies most often enter one’s head. But there are other creatures worth accommodating. I’m thinking of bees.

Why bees? 

Well, because they are very important. For example, bees are major contributors to the well-being of a host of living things by the not so simple act of pollination, which, by the way, they do by accident.

For many folks, “BEE” is synonymous with “honeybee.” But those aren’t the only ones that deserve attention. In fact, the common honey bee is not even native to North America. There are over 4000 species of native bees in the United States.  There are sweat bees, stingless bees, bumblebees, long-horned bees, cuckoo bees, leaf-cutter bees, carpenter bees, and a blueberry bee.

Bees could use our help.

Bees suffer from loss of habitat, mites, pesticides, wax moths, and colony collapse disorder. I doubt that any are actually in danger of extinction, though. (I expect someone will write to argue otherwise.) Still, it never hurts to be generous and help other creatures set upon by trials.

You can help in various ways, but some of the easiest and most obvious include the following:
    • Avoiding insecticide use when bees are present;
    • Providing nesting places, or leaving some plant litter around the garden so bees can find their own;
    • Providing a water source (Bees will line up around the edges of bird baths to drink.)
    • Providing lots and lots of flowers.

Bees LOVE flowers!

There are very few that bees will not visit. For some, any flowering weed will do. But there are some things that bees look for especially in a flower. These are:
    • Pollen
    • Nectar
    • Scent, even if imperceptible to us
    • Color (Bees especially like blue, purple, violet, white and yellow.)

With that in mind, here are five flowers for you to grow that bees love, and they’ll flourish almost anywhere.

Achillea

Achillea, commonly called Yarrow, is a perennial herb native to parts of Europe, Asia and North America.   Yarrow produces flat flower clusters in hues of red, pink, gold, yellow and white. Flowering begins in the spring and continues well into summer or even fall. Feathery, fern-like leaves are green or gray and have a fresh, spicy fragrance.  Yarrow is perfect for borders and naturalizing in mass plantings, fresh- and dried flower arrangements. It grows well in zones 3-8.

Coreopsis – known by the unflattering name of “tickseed” – is a bright-flowered plant with blossoms shaped like large asters. Color is mostly yellow, but there are some in pink shades, too. Maintenance is minimal. It’s a sunny summer flower that will lift your spirits. Coreopsis thrives in USDA climate zones 4-9.

Echinacea (Coneflower) is loved for its beautiful, showy flowers, and has been reputed for centuries to be an herbal remedy. It requires very little maintenance, too. Popular colors include pink and white. Echinacea is perfect for climate zones 3-8

Nepeta 'Blue Wonder'

Nepeta (Catmint), of course, is adored by cats and their servile humans, but bees go crazy around it, too. Catnip plants are wonderful for the herb garden. The alluring flowers and aroma are pleasing to all. Catmint colors include blue, blue and deeper blue. Though native to Europe, it is right at home anywhere in climate zones 3-9.

Rudbeckia (Black-Eye Susan) attracts bees, butterflies, and birds which love the seeds. All Black-Eyed Susans are reasonably drought-tolerant. They're especially suited to naturalizing, wildflower meadows, cutting gardens, wildlife gardens, native plant collections, heritage and cottage gardens. Colors are shades of yellow and orange. Rudbeckia is native to North America, and since there are very few states where it cannot be found, you know it’ll thrive in USDA climate zones 3-9.

“But”, you say, “I’m afraid of bees!”

That’s called melissophobia. Actually, though, you’re not so much afraid of bees as you are of bee stings. Am I right? Fear less. Bees are not interested in you. They only sting in self-defense or to protect their homes. As a former bee-keeper, I speak from personal experience. Many were the times I’d slowly approach the hives without protection of long sleeves, veil and gloves to sit and observe the wondrous little creatures. Some would fly up to inspect me. Sometimes another person would join me. So long as one of us didn’t thrash about, the bees would buzz off and go about their beesiness.
Think how much satisfaction you’ll feel with a garden full of flowers for the bees, knowing that you’ve done some good.

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Eve's Needle - It Will Produce Thorns For You

'Eve's Needle' Cactus

Sometimes I wonder why plants are named as they are. 'Eve's Needle' (aka Eve's Pin Cushion) is today's puzzler. Its botanical name is Austrocylindropuntia subulata, which translated means "southern cylinder." Opuntia refers to Opus, Greece where cacti are found. Subulata means "awl-shaped." That's easy. It is native to the southern hemisphere, the mountains of Peru, actually. It is cylindrical in shape. It's definitely a cactus. The succulent foliage and spines are awl-shaped. Simple enough.

But why is it called 'Eve's Needle'? Does it refer to Adam's spouse? Did the spines call to the mind of a taxonomist the words of Genesis 3, "Because you listened to your wife and ate fruit from the tree about which I commanded you, 'You must not eat from it,' Cursed is the ground because of you; through painful toil you will eat food from it all the days of your life. It will produce thorns and thistles for you, and you will eat the plants of the field"?

Was the celebrated Eve a significant person for the taxonomist? Wife? Mother? Daughter? Mistress? Was she a seamstress? Was she the cause of personal pain?

What do you think? Whether you are captivated by such mysteries, or simply intrigued by cacti, 'Eve's Needle' should be in your collection.

'Eve's Needle' matures to the height of a small tree - about 15 feet. But it can be easily grown as a much smaller specimen in a container garden. Besides the fact that it grows relatively slowly, a potted plant will grow slower still because its root growth is limited.

'Eve's Needle' is as useful as any other cactus in xeriscapes, cacti and succulent collections, container gardens, and as a pest deterrent. Neither man nor beast will risk walking among its 3 inch long spines.

Here are a few details about the plant and how to grow it.

Bloom Color: Red.

Bloom Time: Late spring to early summer.

Foliage: Succulent awl-shaped leaves supported by spines.

Height/Spread: 1' to 15' at maturity. Space 12" to 36" apart.

Climate Zones: 9, 10, 11.

Sun Exposure: Full sun, partial shade

Soil Condition: Sandy, well-drained. pH 6.1 to 7.8

Features: Tall, upright, branching habit; bright red flowers, heat tolerant, attracts pollinating insects. Sharp spines. Use caution when handling!

Uses: Cactus and succulent borders, xeriscaping, theme gardens, desert gardens, container gardens, indoor containers with sun exposure, hedging, "homeland security."

Have you grown 'Eve's Needle' or seen a fine specimen in a cactus garden? Can you solve the mystery of its name? Please add your comment. We'd love to know!

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A Dangerous Bunny

 Honey Bunny Cactus (Opuntia microdasys var. albispina)

My name is dangerous bunny

Be careful what you say

Be careful what you do

Be nice when you play

Trouble creates strife

- From Dangerous Bunny - Poem by espri minnes

Opuntia microdasys var. albispina

Its botanical name is Opuntia microdasys var. albispina. Opuntia refers to Opus, Greece where many cacti are found. Microdasys var. albispina means "small and bushy" and "white spines." In addition to Honey Bunny, other common names include Polka Dots, Bunny Ears, Rabbit Ears and White Bunny Ears. All seem appropriate, at least at first glance. But a cuddly bunny it is not! The soft appearance is deceptive. Those fuzzy white polka dots all over the pads are troublesome little things.

And, look! It even multiplies like rabbits! You can hurry it along by breaking off a few pads (with gloved hands, of course), dropping them on the ground and leaving them there. In time, Honey Bunny forms a low but formidable groundcover; just the thing for discouraging unwanted two- and four-legged pests. That's what I call "homeland security."

Opuntia microdasys var. albispina

Honey Bunny cactus is really quite attractive. When its bright, yellow flowers - large in comparison to the pads - appear, it's downright beautiful. If Honey Bunny could fill a spot in your garden, give it a try.

Here are a few more details in summary, and tips on how to grow it.

Bloom Color: Bright yellow.

Bloom Time: Late spring to early summer.

Foliage: Fleshy pads with white tufts of spines.

Height/Spread: 12" to 24". Space 24" to 36" apart.

Climate Zones: 8, 9, 10, 11.

Sun Exposure: Full sun

Soil Condition: Sandy, well-drained. pH 6.1 to 7.5

Features: Low, spreading habit; bright yellow flowers, heat tolerant, attracts pollinating insects.

Uses: Massed planting, ground cover, cactus and succulent borders, xeriscaping, Southwestern themed gardens, container gardens, indoor containers.

Have you seen Honey Bunny cactus in a garden? Have you grown it yourself? Planning on trying it? Tell us in the comment section. We'd love to hear from you!

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Be Careful How You Hold This Tongue

Cow's Tongue Cactus (Opuntia engelmannii var. linguiformis)

“The best time for you to hold your tongue is the time you feel you must say something or bust.” 

― Josh Billings, American humorist. 1818-1885

Well, I've got to tell you right now about Cow's Tongue Cactus (Opuntia engelmannii var. linguiformis). It's practically surreal in appearance. Its stark, long, tapered pads stretch upward and out like they're reaching for something to lick. If you were to feel its stinging lap on your flesh, you'd quickly withdraw. The pads are covered with spines. Some are long and obvious. Others are fine and barely noticeable, but even those can irritate your skin mightily.

So, you might ask yourself, "Self, what good is a plant like that? Why would anyone want it in their garden?" There are several reasons.

The first is for its sculptural appearance. The fleshy texture and bizarre appearance add a very artistic feature to the landscape. It's useful alone as a specimen plant or among others in a desert-theme garden. The bright yellow flowers of spring and ornamental purple fruits of fall lend a decorative touch.

The second is for its drought tolerance. If you reside in an arid part of the country, or just want to reduce your water bill, Cow's Tongue Cactus is for you. It thrives in poor, sandy soil, too.

The third is for its botanical significance. Cow's Tongue Cactus, like other Prickly Pear cacti, is native to the Americas - specifically Texas. Native plant enthusiasts and cacti/succulent collectors should include it among their selections.

Opuntia engelmannii var. linguiformis also honors history in its name. Linguiformis means "tongue-shaped." The genus, Opuntia, refers to a region in ancient Greece, Opus, where cacti were commonly grown. The species, engelmannii, recognizes George Engelmann. Engelmann (1809-1884) was a German-American botanist who studied native plants of the western frontier. His correspondence with fellow botanist, Ferdinand Lindheimer (1801-1879), is well-known.

As a matter of fact, it's worth mentioning here that this species is sometimes identified as Opuntia lindheimerii var., linguiformis. Lindheimer lived and worked in Texas. His collection of letters to Engelmann, A Life Among the Texas Flora (edited by Minetta Altgelt Goyne), is a classic.

Cow's Tongue Cactus

The fourth reason is for its use as a barrier. This is not one of those hedges you have to prune occasionally to keep up appearances. It manages quite well on its own without becoming unkempt. Believe me, intruders will think twice before trying to trespass. Cow's Tongue Cactus should be in your homeland security arsenal.

The fifth is for its edibility. Yes! You can eat it! The young, fleshy pads can be stripped of their spines, sliced and sauteed. The purple fruits, stripped of their spines, can be cooked to render a delicious, dark burgundy juice for syrups and other desserts.

Cow's Tongue Cactus is easy to propagate. Simply break off a few pads - with gloved hands, of course. Drop them onto a prepared site, and leave them undisturbed to root. A nice little colony will develop within a couple of seasons.

Here are a few tips for growing it.

Bloom Color: Yellow

Bloom Time: Spring

Foliage: Thick, fleshy, tongue-shaped pads

Height/Spread: 4' average height. Plant 6' to 8' apart.

Climate Zones: 8, 9, 10, 11.

Sun Exposure: Full sun

Soil Condition: Well-drained, sandy. Do not over-water. pH 6.1 to 7.8

Features: Sculptural foliage, yellow flowers, purple pear-shaped fruit.

Uses: Xeriscaping, native plant collections, cacti/succulent collections, desert- and Southwestern-themed gardens, edible gardens, barrier hedges.

Have you used Cow's Tongue Cactus (Opuntia engelmannii var. linguiformis) in your garden? Have you seen it in botanical gardens or plant collections? Tell us about it in the comment section. We'd love to hear from you!

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Thyme It Is A Precious Thing

Come all ye maidens young and fair
And you that are blooming in your prime
Always beware and keep your garden fair
Let no man steal away your thyme.

For thyme it is a precious thing
And thyme brings all things to my mind.
Thyme with all its flavours, along with all its joys
Thyme, brings all things to my mind.

Once I had a bunch of thyme.
I thought it never would decay.
Then came a lusty sailor
Who chanced to pass my way
And stole my bunch of thyme away.

The sailor gave to me a rose.
A rose that never would decay.
He gave it to me to keep me reminded
Of when he stole my thyme away.

Those lines from an old Irish song, A Bunch Of Thyme, remind us that herbs mean more to us than we often realize.  In the song, the herb symbolizes virginity and chastity.  In the language of flowers, thyme symbolizes courage, vigor and strength.  All are important virtues to be guarded.  It seems that herbs strike some deep chords within us that resonate when we experience them, especially by taste or smell.  It's certainly so with thyme.  I have a small jar of it beside me now.

Thymus (pronounced TY-muss) is a genus of about 350 perennials native to warmer regions of Europe, Africa and Asia in the Mediterranean region.  It belongs to the Lamiaceae or mint family.

Thymus has been highly valued and used by western civilizations since the ancient Greeks as incense, fumigation, anti-depressant, pest repellant (though powerless against lusty sailors), vermifuge, antiseptic, antifungal agent, mouthwash, treatment for skin infections and bronchial disorders, and flavoring.  Hippocrates is quoted as instructing, "Let your food be your medicine, and your medicine be your food."  Thyme is a healthful flavoring, indeed.  It contains antioxidants, is rich in potassium, iron, calcium, manganese, magnesium, and selenium, B-complex vitamins, beta carotene, vitamin A, vitamin K, vitamin E, vitamin C and folic acid.

Thyme has small, soft, aromatic leaves.  Diminutive lavender flowers are produced throughout the growing season. 

Most species are low-growing and spreading, so they are wonderful as ground covers planted near stepping stones.  Thyme tolerates some foot traffic, so can used as a lawn substitute.  Herb gardens, fragrance gardens, hummingbird and butterfly gardens are not complete without thyme.  Bees produce excellent honey from thyme.  Thyme is drought-tolerant, deer and rabbit resistant.

Where ever you plant it, you'll find yourself looking for recipes that include thyme.  It can be used in recipes fresh or dry, and is marvelous as an ingredient in aromatic cooking oils.

Thyme is generally hardy in USDA climate zones 4 through 8 or 10, requires full sun and well-drained soils with pH ranging from 6.5 to 8.5.  Take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service Office for proper analysis.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil. 

Space the plants 8" to 24" apart, depending upon the species. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant thyme with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly with organic fertilizer and allow soil to dry between watering.  The greatest cause of failure is over-watering.  Thyme is definitely a low-maintenance plant.

Thyme, "with all its flavours, along with all its joys", pleases the senses while it improves health and enhances the landscape.  "Keep your garden fair and let no man steal away your thyme."

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Rosemary - The Herb Of Remembrance

For the sake of some things
That be now no more
I will strew rushes
On my chamber-floor,
I will plant bergamot
At my kitchen-door.

For the sake of dim things
That were once so plain
I will set a barrel
Out to catch the rain,
I will hang an iron pot
On an iron crane.

Those nostalgic lines from Rosemary by Edna St. Vincent Millay may stir similar emotions, if not actual responses in you.  In the language of flowers, rosemary symbolizes remembrance.  Few would strew rushes on the floor in memory of "the good old days", though bergamot may be found by kitchen doors, and rain barrels are becoming more popular.  Iron pots, if you can still find them, are most often used as planters.

Rosemary is also growing in popularity.  Once found mostly in herb gardens, it is now common in ornamental gardens, as well.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus, pronounced rose-mah-REE-nus) is a small genus of perennials including only two species: R. eriocalyx and R. officinalis.  R. officinalis (pronounced oh-fiss-ih-NAH-liss) is the most popular.

Rosemary is native to the Mediterranean region from Spain to northwest Africa, often near the sea.  Rosmarinus, in fact, means "dew of the sea."  It's a member of the Lamiaceae family which includes mints, lavender, russian sage, and salvia.  Along with many other members of the family, rosemary contains essential oils and was discovered very early on to be beneficial to the body.  Officinalis means "official", referring to its inclusion in the materia medica - that body of knowledge now known as pharmacology.  

Historically, rosemary was used for medicine.  Hippocrates is quoted as instructing, "Let your food be your medicine, and your medicine be your food."  So rosemary was and continues to be used as a flavoring.  Its healthful effects are amazing.   Rosemary is rich in vitamin A, which has a positive effect on vision.  It improves kidney and liver function.  Rosemary is a rich source of iron and stimulates the circulatory system.  Antioxidants in rosemary help to prevent carcinogenic compounds from forming when meat is cooked at high temperatures.  Carnosic acid helps to fight off stroke and neurodegenerative conditions such as Alzheimer's Disease.  It's no wonder that rosemary is known as the herb of remembrance.

If you are tempted to research rosemary to treat yourself, I highly recommend you ask your doctor first.  This is particularly true of women who are pregnant.

Rosemary has evergreen, needle-like leaves that are resinous and fragrant.  Small, light blue flowers are edible and produced throughout the growing season.  The species grows to 48" or more and at least as wide.  Newer cultivars may be more compact.  One cultivar grows prostrate.

Herb gardens, fragrance gardens, hummingbird gardens, bee gardens and butterfly gardens are not complete without rosemary.  It's also very effective in mixed perennial borders for color and textural contrast.  Rosemary responds well to pruning, so it makes a fine hedge.  If your growing space is limited, rosemary performs well in containers.  I've even seen it trained as bonsai.

Where ever you plant it, you'll find yourself stepping out to snip a few sprigs of rosemary for use in the kitchen.  Rosemary can be used in recipes fresh or dry, and is wonderful as an ingredient in aromatic cooking oils.

Rosemary is drought-tolerant, deer and rabbit resistant.  The essential oils may repel some vermin.  Those who live near the sea will appreciate its salt-tolerance.

Hardy in USDA climate zones 7 through 10, rosemary requires full sun and well-drained soils with pH ranging from 6.6 to 8.5.  Take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for proper analysis.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 24" to 36" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant rosemary with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between watering.  The greatest cause of failure is over-watering.  Rosemary is certainly a low-maintenance plant.

Rosemary improves health and pleases the senses.  It enhances the beauty of your garden, cheers the nose and delights the palate.  Do remember to include rosemary in your garden.

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Refreshing Oswego Tea

The New World was a treasure-trove of plants to early European explorers. Many of their uses came to light as the colonizing foreigners observed the native people. Just so did the value of Oswego Tea come to be known.

Oswego Tea, also known as Bee Balm, Horsemint and Bergamot is of the genus Monarda, containing about 16 indigenous species. Monarda is named for Nicolas Monardes, 16th century Spanish physician and botanist. In those days, most physicians were botanists. Monardes wrote his famous Historia medicinal de las cosas que se traen de nuestras Indias Occidentales. Of course, he referred to "our West Indian" possessions because most of the territory was under the Spanish flag. In 1577, John Frampton (Englishman) translated Monardes book and titled it, Ioyfull newes out of the newe founde worlde, typically disregarding Spanish claims.

Monarda belongs to the Mint family, Lamiaceae. It's easy to recognize Monarda's relationship to mints. Stems are squared. Leaves are slender, tapered and toothed. The flowers are quite large compared to mints, usually red to pink in color, and are produced repeatedly throughout the growing season. The fragrance is very pleasing. I enjoy crushing the leaves between my fingers for a refreshing sniff.

One of the most useful species, and the one I'll treat for the rest of this article, is M. didyma (pronounced DID-ee-muh). It is sometimes called Scarlet Beebalm. You can find it growing wild, especially in the Appalacians where rich, moist, well-drained soils are very much to its liking.

Scarlet Beebalm is known for its antiseptic properties. Of course, the Indians knew it first. They used it as a poultice, and as a refreshing tea for fighting tooth decay, gum disease, and bad breath. An active ingredient, Thymol, is still used in mouthwashes.

It attracts bees, so is a useful honey plant. Butterflies love it, too.

But most of us love Scarlet Beebalm because it is so beautiful. Monarda grows up to 48", sometimes taller, so the lovely flowers may tower above other perennials. It spreads by runners to about 12" across, so if your garden site is to its liking, you may have a colony in a couple of growing seasons.

Monarda is suitable in perennial gardens and borders, herb gardens, butterfly and bee gardens, and wildflower gardens. New cultivars and hybrids are available in differing heights and in colors ranging from white, to pink, purplish and scarlet.

Monarda thrives in full sun in USDA climate zones 3 or 4 to 9 in fertile, well-drained, evenly moist soils with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8. It can be grown in partial shade, but tends to be leggy and flower less.

Begin by taking a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing. The results will specify any soil amendments needed.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep. Add enough soil to raise the bed at least 4" above the surrounding ground level. This will help to promote good drainage. Compost may be incorporated into the soil. Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 12" to 24" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Water the plants in the pots, then drain. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Monarda has no serious pests or diseases, and deer and rabbits don't like it. Powdery mildew may appear, but is usually not serious enough to ruin your plants. The greatest cause of failure is planting it in an environment that is not to its liking.

When your Beebalm is in bloom, pick a few leaves for tea, then sit in the shade, and enjoy its beauty. It's as refreshing to the palate as it is to the eye.

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Verbena On The Mind

Sometimes you come upon plants which are astonishingly interwoven in the fabric of human culture.  The genus, Verbena, is one of them.  The name itself intrigues enough to arouse curiosity.  Verbena is sometimes called Vervain.

Verbena is a genus of about 250 annual and perennial species native to the Americas.  Two are native to Europe and the Mediterranean region.  The name means "sacred foliage", and one of the Old World species, Common Verbena (Verbena officinalis), is most fabled.  Common Verbena is now widely naturalized elsewhere.  Its potent medicinal properties undoubtedly led to its association with the supernatural.

It's used most commonly in the form of herbal tea to treat nervousness and insomnia.  Because of its ability to calm the mind, it has been used to alleviate "writer's block".  (I could use some now.)  Foliage is pleasingly fragrant.  William Faulkner wrote of it in The Odor of Verbena.  (I've wondered whether sipping too much verbena tea might have influenced his sentence style.)

Some American Indians used it to "create god within" and induce prophetic dreams.  Medieval legend held that the leaves were used as a poultice to staunch the wounds of Christ.  Verbena also figures in ancient Egyptian and Greek mythology.

As with most medicinal herbs, verbena has its dangers and should not be used without consulting a physician.

Depending on the species, verbena may be hardy from USDA climate zones 3 through 11.  Plant in well-drained soil with exposure to full sun.  Recommended pH ranges from 6.5 to 7.8; to err on the side of alkalinity is best.

Growth height varies.  Low-profile species are excellent for ground cover, rock gardens, container gardens, hanging baskets and terraces.  Taller species are excellent for perennial gardens, cutting and flower-arranging.  Verbena attracts butterflies, too.

Prepare the planting bed for verbena by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 8" deep. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil. Synthetic fertilizers may be used. To best determine your soil's needs, take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension office for testing for a small fee.

Container-grown verbena can be planted any time you have a trowel handy, but will require monitoring of soil moisture levels during hot weather to avoid plant stress.  Take care not to water too much.  Let soil dry between waterings.

Space plants 12" to 24" apart. Keep in mind that my spacing recommendations are approximate. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill.  Press soil around the roots. Do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" to 4" deep. Irrigate thoroughly.

Maintenance is minimal. Verbena plants have few pest and disease problems, but they aren't immune. Spider mites can cause problems during dry weather, but the little critters hate water. So overhead irrigation discourages them.  Nematodes can attack stems. Removal and destruction of the infected portion is effective. Mildew can infect in areas with poor air circulation during cooler, wetter weather. Sulfur spray is a good treatment. Keep in mind that remedial sprays do not restore damaged tissue; they only stop the progress of the problem. The best preventative is to maintain vigorous plants in a healthy environment.

Ground cover verbena plants benefit from mowing.  Yes...mowing.  Set your mower at 4" height or greater and trim vigorous plants to maintain a dense appearance.  Waiting until they look weak and leggy will not produce good results.

Whether you collect plants for beauty, their history, attractiveness to butterflies, cutting or herbal properties, verbena should be in your garden.  With so many species to consider, it's likely that you can find one just right for you.  I highly recommend it.

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Dancing With The Daisies

In her poem, Daisy Time, Marjorie Lowry Christie Pickthall celebrated these lovely flowers.

See, the grass is full of stars,
Fallen in their brightness;
Hearts they have of shining gold,
Rays of shining whiteness.

Just so do daisies captivate the imaginations of children.  Innocent bouquets, flower chains and circlets are fashioned of them, and their hearts of gold know well whether "he loves" or not.

There are "daisies" among other genera, but the daisies known and loved best are of the genus Leucanthemum (lew-KANTH-ih-mum), meaning "white flower."  The genus contains about 70 species native to Europe, North Africa and parts of Asia.  However, some have been introduced to North America.  Now daisies occur in practically every state and province of the U.S. and Canada.  Plant height is 12" to 48".  Flower color is, of course, white with yellow center.

Buttercups have honeyed hearts,
Bees they love the clover,
But I love the daisies' dance
All the meadow over.

In addition to their imaginative uses as cut flowers, personal adornment, and seers of love, daisies are great for perennial borders and wildflower meadows.  Butterflies and bees love clover, but they adore daisies, too.  So do birds.  More good news:  rabbits do not care to eat them.  Daisies will also make your heart glad because they are easy to care for and drought-tolerant when established.

Daisies thrive in USDA climate zones 3 through 9.  Plant in full sun to partial shade.  Average well-drained garden soil with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.5 is fine, but organic, well-composted soil is perfect for pushing up daisies.  The seeds are best planted in spring.  Plants can be set any time you have a trowel handy.

Before planting, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  They often provide collection bags.  With each soil sample, indicate the type of plant you intend to grow in it.  For the most basic recommendations, you may be charged a nominal fee.  For more information such as micro-nutrient and organic content you may be charged more.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  Adjust soil pH according to soil test results.

Your soil sample report will also include fertilizer recommendations.  Following instructions is always a good bet.  A fine all-around practice is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet area.  Repeat the application every two weeks during the growing season, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

Daisies look great planted with cosmos, coreopsis, coneflower, daylily, black-eye susan, yarrow, salvia and mullein.  Within a couple of seasons they should mature.  Then it's-

Blow, O blow, you happy winds,
Singing summer's praises,
Up the field and down the field
A-dancing with the daisies.

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Lamium - Not As Nettlesome As It Sounds

If you were offered a basket of dead nettle, you might be put off by the suggestion for nettles are well-known for their stinging hairs.  I dare say there isn't one of us who hasn't run across them as children or brushed against them with our bare limbs and felt the consequences.  Nettles are synonymous with stinging.  To be nettlesome is to be very irritating.  Dead or alive, you wouldn't want them.

But wait, the name unfairly invokes distrust of a very charming genus of perennial plants, Lamium, native mostly to Europe.  The botanical name, (pronounced LAY-mee-um), which means "dead nettle", refers to the hairy surfaces of the plant which do not sting.  Thus, they are "dead."  One of the most popular ornamental species is L. maculatum (pronounced mak-you-LAY-tum), meaning "spotted."  Lamium belongs to the Mint family, Lamiaceae.

It's easy to recognize Lamium's relationship to mints.  Leaves are ovate and toothed.  The most popular varieties are variegated.  The flowers are fairly large compared to mints, usually pink in color and having two lips, and are produced repeatedly throughout the growing season.  The fragrance is not as pleasing as its tasty cousins.  Lamium grows about 12" high and spreads by runners to about 12" across.  It attracts bees and butterflies.

Lamium is suitable as a ground cover and in container gardens.  It's beautiful planted at the base of stone walls and other such structures.  Plant plenty of it for the bees and butterflies, and in your herb garden.  You'll also love it for its seasonal color; the foliage is nearly evergreen and displays a nice plum shade in winter.

Lamium thrives in partial to full shade in USDA climate zones 3 to 9 or 10 in fertile, well-drained, slightly moist soils with pH ranging from 6.1 to 8.5.  It's somewhat drought-tolerant when established.

Begin by taking a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing.  The results will specify any soil amendments needed.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Add enough soil to raise the bed at least 4" above the surrounding ground level. This will help to promote good drainage. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 12" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Because it likes well-drained soil, plant Lamium with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between watering.

Lamium has no serious pests or diseases, and deer don't like it.  The greatest cause of failure is planting it in an environment that is not to its liking.

Lamium does not spread as rapidly or as far as its relative, Lamiastrum.  The plant is much more compact and as beautiful.  However, if you have to cover a large area, Lamiastrum may be the better choice.  Considering its beauty, adaptability to a wide range of climates and soil conditions, Lamium should be one of the top choices for your garden.

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