Growing Your Own Garden Inputs: The Forgotten Art of Feeding the Garden from the Garden

  

Modern gardeners spend a surprising amount of time buying what previous generations often made themselves. Bags of compost, bottles of fertilizer, mulch, seed-starting mixes, and pest-control products line the shelves of garden centers, yet much of what we need can be produced right in our own backyards.

An organic garden reaches a new level of maturity when it begins producing not only vegetables and flowers, but also the materials needed to sustain itself. Instead of importing fertility year after year, the garden becomes a living factory that creates its own compost, mulch, fertilizer, seeds, and beneficial insects. The result is lower costs, healthier soil, and a landscape that grows more resilient with each passing season.

Think Like a Farmer, Not Just a Gardener

For thousands of years, farmers understood that every farm needed to produce more than crops. It also needed to produce fertility.

Leaves became mulch.

Crop residues became compost.

Animals supplied manure.

Cover crops fed the soil.

Seeds were saved from the best plants.

Even weeds found useful purposes.

This closed cycle reduced dependence on outside supplies and steadily improved the land. Home gardeners can adopt exactly the same philosophy on a smaller scale.

Instead of asking, "What do I need to buy?" begin asking, "Can my garden produce this itself?"

Often, the answer is yes.

Grow Your Own Mulch

Many gardeners purchase bags of mulch every spring, yet mulch can become one of the easiest garden products to grow.

Fast-growing plants make excellent mulch crops, including:

• Comfrey
• Tall grasses
• Rye
• Oats
• Sorghum-sudangrass
• Sunflowers
• Jerusalem artichokes

These plants can be cut several times during the growing season and laid directly around vegetables and flowers.

Leaves from deciduous trees remain one of nature's greatest gifts. Rather than hauling them away each autumn, shred them and store them in wire bins until needed. Leaf mold becomes one of the finest soil conditioners imaginable.

Produce Compost Ingredients Year-Round

Many compost piles fail because they lack enough material.

Instead of hoping enough kitchen scraps accumulate, intentionally grow compost crops.

Good choices include:

• Buckwheat
• Cowpeas
• Crimson clover
• Sunn hemp
• Hairy vetch
• White Dutch clover

These plants generate enormous amounts of green material that decomposes rapidly while adding valuable nutrients to the compost pile.

Even weeds—before they set seed—can become excellent compost ingredients.

Every weed removed from the garden represents nutrients being recycled rather than wasted.

Grow Fertilizer

Certain plants function almost like living fertilizer factories.

Comfrey is perhaps the best known.

Its deep roots mine minerals from several feet below the soil surface. The leaves contain impressive amounts of potassium, calcium, and other nutrients.

Gardeners have long:

• Added comfrey to compost piles
• Used chopped leaves as mulch
• Made liquid fertilizer from soaked leaves
• Buried leaves beneath tomatoes and squash

Stinging nettle, yarrow, borage, and dandelions also accumulate minerals that become available after decomposition.

Nature has already done the mining.

Produce Your Own Seed

Saving seed is among the oldest gardening traditions.

Each season your garden becomes better adapted to your local climate when you save seed from your healthiest plants.

Good crops for beginners include:

• Beans
• Peas
• Lettuce
• Tomatoes
• Peppers
• Okra

Over several years, your garden slowly develops varieties uniquely suited to your soil, rainfall, and weather patterns.

That adaptation cannot be purchased in a packet.

Raise Your Own Soil Biology

The most valuable part of healthy soil is invisible.

Billions of bacteria, fungi, protozoa, nematodes, and earthworms perform the work that fertilizers alone never can.

You can encourage these workers by producing their favorite foods.

Regular additions of:

• Compost
• Leaf mold
• Shredded leaves
• Grass clippings
• Wood chips
• Cover crop residues

allow soil biology to multiply naturally.

Instead of feeding plants directly, you feed the underground community that feeds the plants.

Create Habitat for Beneficial Insects

Rather than purchasing beneficial insects each season, encourage permanent residents.

Grow plants that bloom continuously throughout the year, such as:

• Dill
• Fennel
• Sweet alyssum
• Yarrow
• Coreopsis
• Goldenrod
• Mountain mint

These flowers provide nectar and pollen for lady beetles, lacewings, hoverflies, parasitic wasps, and many native pollinators.

Once established, these beneficial insects often return year after year.

Grow Stakes, Trellises, and Supports

Garden inputs are not limited to fertilizers.

Many traditional gardens included living sources of construction materials.

Bamboo produces canes for stakes and trellises.

Willow provides flexible rods for woven supports.

Coppiced shrubs yield straight poles for beans and peas.

Instead of purchasing plastic supports every season, harvest renewable materials directly from the landscape.

Harvest Rainwater

Water is perhaps the largest garden input of all.

Rain barrels, cisterns, and swales allow gardeners to capture rainfall that would otherwise disappear into storm drains.

Stored rainwater contains no chlorine, arrives at air temperature, and reduces demand on municipal water supplies.

Every gallon collected is one less gallon that must be purchased or pumped.

Even Weeds Can Become Resources

Organic gardeners eventually learn to see weeds differently.

Many common weeds:

• Accumulate minerals
• Produce abundant biomass
• Feed pollinators while flowering
• Improve soil structure with deep roots
• Become compost after removal

Of course, aggressive weeds should never be allowed to set seed.

But even unwanted plants can contribute to the garden's economy before returning to the compost pile.

Nothing need be wasted.

A Garden That Produces More Than Food

Perhaps the greatest transformation in organic gardening occurs when the garden begins supplying itself.

The compost pile fills from homegrown materials.

Mulch comes from dedicated mulch crops.

Seeds come from last year's harvest.

Beneficial insects stay because habitat is always available.

Fertility increases without relying entirely on purchased products.

The garden becomes less like a consumer and more like a living ecosystem.

This way of gardening is neither new nor complicated. It simply revives a wisdom that sustained gardens for generations before bags, bottles, and boxes became commonplace. Every season, as more of your garden's needs are met from within its own boundaries, you gain something beyond lower expenses. You gain independence, resilience, and the quiet satisfaction of working with nature's cycles rather than constantly reaching beyond them. That may be one of the oldest—and most rewarding—secrets of organic gardening.

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Should You Fertilize During Hot Weather?

 

Summer presents gardeners with a dilemma. Plants are still growing, vegetables are producing, flowers are blooming—and yet the thermometer keeps climbing. Is this the right time to fertilize, or could feeding your plants during extreme heat do more harm than good?

The answer is yes...and no.

Whether you should fertilize during hot weather depends on the temperature, the health of your plants, the type of fertilizer you're using, and whether the plants are actively growing or merely trying to survive. Knowing the difference can help you avoid stressing your garden during the hottest weeks of the year.

Plants Under Heat Stress Aren't Hungry

When temperatures remain above 90°F for several days, many plants slow their growth. They conserve energy and moisture rather than producing new leaves or roots. You may notice wilted foliage during the afternoon, slower flowering, or vegetables that seem to pause in production.

During these periods, plants aren't looking for extra nutrients nearly as much as they're looking for water.

Applying fertilizer encourages new growth, but tender new leaves require additional moisture. If the soil is already dry and temperatures are soaring, forcing fresh growth can actually increase stress on the plant.

Think of it this way: asking a heat-stressed plant to produce new growth is a bit like asking someone to run a marathon during a heat advisory.

When Fertilizing Makes Sense

Hot weather doesn't automatically mean you should stop fertilizing altogether.

Continue feeding plants that are:

• Actively growing
• Well-watered
• Healthy and green
• Producing flowers or fruit

Many annual flowers, hanging baskets, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and container plants benefit from light, regular feeding throughout summer because frequent watering washes nutrients from the soil.

Rather than applying large amounts of fertilizer all at once, use smaller doses more frequently.

This provides a steady supply of nutrients without overwhelming the plant.

Fertilize Early in the Morning

Timing matters.

If you need to fertilize during hot weather, apply it early in the morning while temperatures are still cool.

Morning applications offer several advantages:

• Plants are well hydrated.
• Roots absorb nutrients more efficiently.
• Leaves dry quickly if any fertilizer contacts the foliage.
• Less evaporation means nutrients remain available in the soil.

Avoid fertilizing during the hottest part of the afternoon when both plants and gardeners are suffering.

Water Before and After Fertilizing

Dry soil and fertilizer are a poor combination.

Always water thirsty plants before applying fertilizer unless you're using a diluted liquid fertilizer specifically intended for watering.

After applying granular fertilizer, water thoroughly to dissolve the nutrients and move them safely into the root zone.

Proper watering greatly reduces the chance of fertilizer burn.

Use Gentle Fertilizers

Summer is generally not the time for heavy applications of fast-release nitrogen fertilizers.

Instead, consider:

• Slow-release fertilizers
• Compost
• Compost tea
• Fish emulsion
• Seaweed extracts
• Balanced liquid fertilizers diluted according to label directions

These provide nutrients gradually and are less likely to stimulate excessive tender growth during periods of intense heat.

Avoid Fertilizing Newly Transplanted Plants

Freshly transplanted shrubs, perennials, trees, and annuals already have enough to overcome.

Their first priority is establishing new roots—not producing lush top growth.

During hot weather, focus on:

• Deep watering
• Mulching
• Providing afternoon shade if practical

Wait until the plant resumes healthy growth before applying fertilizer.

Lawns Need Special Care

Many cool-season grasses naturally slow or become semi-dormant during hot weather.

Applying heavy nitrogen fertilizers during summer can increase disease problems and heat stress.

Warm-season grasses, such as Bermuda grass, Zoysia grass, Centipede grass, and St. Augustine grass, may still benefit from summer feeding if they are actively growing. Even then, avoid excessive nitrogen during periods of extreme heat.

Follow recommendations for your particular grass species and local climate.

Container Plants Are Different

Plants growing in pots often require more frequent fertilization than those growing in the ground.

Each watering flushes nutrients from the potting mix.

A half-strength liquid fertilizer every one to two weeks often works better than occasional heavy feedings.

Just be sure the potting mix never becomes bone dry before fertilizing.

Watch the Weather Forecast

If possible, postpone fertilizing when:

• Temperatures above 95°F are expected for several days.
• Plants are visibly wilted from drought.
• A prolonged heat wave is underway.

On the other hand, if a period of cooler weather or steady rainfall is approaching, that's often an excellent opportunity to fertilize.

Plants recover more quickly under moderate conditions.

The Bottom Line

The goal of fertilizing is to support healthy growth—not to force it.

During hot weather, healthy, well-watered plants can usually benefit from light feeding, especially vegetables, flowering annuals, and container gardens. Plants suffering from drought or extreme heat, however, need water and relief before they need fertilizer.

Pay attention to what your plants are telling you. A thriving plant may appreciate a modest meal, but a struggling one is asking first for shade, moisture, and patience.

Like good gardening itself, successful fertilizing isn't just about feeding plants—it's about knowing when to feed them.

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Locks for the Land - How Savannahians Used Human Hair as Fertilizer in the 1850s

 

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February Garden Tasks?

 

  

Just when you think of sitting down and resting until spring, February rolls around. The month of February might be one of the busiest months for gardeners. Before you get too comfortable, let's review some of February's garden tasks.

To make it easier, we're organizing them by region.

Northeast States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Avoid removing spring flower buds. Inspect those indoor plants around you for disease and insects. Refill your bird feeders. Shop plant and seed catalogs. Don't forget those nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb and asparagus, if you haven’t already. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Clean and oil garden tools.

Mid-Atlantic States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines; but avoid removing spring flower buds.  Inspect your houseplants for disease or insect problems. Feed the birds. Browse seed catalogs in print and online. Order onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus and spring flowering bulbs, if you haven’t already. Do you have bulbs and perennial roots in cool storage? Inspect them and throw out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Begin planting bare-root trees and shrubs. Sow warm-season annual and vegetable seeds in cold frames. Clean and oil garden tools. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

Mid-South States: Continue pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines.  Avoid removing spring-blooming flower buds. Prune and fertilize rose bushes. Spray dormant oil on dormant fruit trees, if you haven’t done so yet. Refill bird feeders often. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary. Sow warm-season annuals and vegetables in cold frame. Plant bare-root trees and shrubs. Plant perennial vegetables such as asparagus and rhubarb. Clean and oil garden tools.

Lower South and Gulf States: Cultivate garden soil. Sow root crops directly in your garden. Continue pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Spray dormant oil on dormant fruit trees, if you haven’t done so yet.  Continue planting and transplanting broad leaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Begin irrigating shrubs and trees as long as weather is above freezing. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant, if you haven't done it yet. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Follow the same regimen as for Northeast States.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Follow regimen for Lower South and Gulf States. Sow root crops directly in your garden.

Pacific Northwest States: Follow the same regimen as for Mid-Atlantic States.

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FAQ: How to maintain dark green foliage color

Q. The Liriope spicata I ordered has been growing great, however the starter plants that were a nice dark green the first growing season have become a leggy light green color.  Is there a fertilizer that you recommend to maintain the dark green color? 

A. Two things you can do:

1. Spray over the top with a water-soluble fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro®. These will feed immediately through the foliage, as well as add nutrients to the soil. 
2. Apply a granular or pelletized slow-release fertilizer such as Osmocote® or Nutricote® to the soil. Properly applied, they feed without the danger of foliage being burned by nitrogen.

Always follow label instructions.

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FAQ: What garden tasks should I be doing in May?

Gardening is a continuous process of sowing, transplanting, dividing, pruning, fertilizing, irrigating, protecting, mulching, mowing, weeding, composting and fixing things.

Here are a few gardening tasks for May organized by region.

Northeast States: It's still possible to have late frost. Plant bare-root perennials, trees, shrubs. Continue planting and transplanting cold-hardy plants outdoors. Sow or transplant warm-season vegetables and herbs, but be ready to protect them from cold. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided. Prune shrubs and trees. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials as they emerge. Continue spring cleanup. Begin watering if the season is dry.

Mid-Atlantic States: It's still possible to have late frost. Plant bare-root and container-grown perennials, potted roses, cool-season vegetable sets, annuals and strawberries in outdoor beds. Sow warm-season vegetables and herbs outdoors. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Prune trees, summer- and fall-blooming shrubs. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials. Continue rose care. Fertilize shrubs, annuals and container gardens every 10 to 14 days. Mulch trees and shrubs to conserve moisture. Mow lawn regularly.

Mid-South States: Frost is still possible. Continue planting trees and shrubs and container gardens. Sow vegetable and herb seeds in the garden. Transplant vegetable and herbs outdoors. Finish pruning spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Continue to remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Lightly fertilize annuals and vegetable seedlings. Fertilize spring bulbs when flowering is complete. Continue spraying fruit trees. Apply mulch to newly planted plants. Continue rose care. Install sod. Mow lawn regularly.

Lower South and Gulf States: Continue to plant container-grown trees and shrubs. Continue to divide and transplant perennials. Continue to plant container gardens. Sow warm-season annuals, vegetables and herbs. Transplant warm-season vegetable and herb seedlings. Shear spring-blooming trees and shrubs now that flowering is complete. Shear conifers and evergreen shrubs. Pinch planted mums to delay bloom. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize camellias, azaleas, annuals, container gardens, summer bulbs, fruit trees. Spray fruit trees with insecticide and fungicide. Continue rose care. Plant warm-season grass seed and install sod if you can irrigate regularly.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: It's still possible to have late frost. If you have flats of growing warm-season annuals and vegetables, transplant them into larger containers. Transplant summer bulbs from containers to the garden. Continue planting and transplanting cold-hardy plants outdoors. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided. Prune shrubs and trees. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials as they emerge. Complete spring cleanup, if you haven't already. Continue rose care. Thin vegetables in the garden.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Continue planting trees, shrubs, summer bulbs, annuals and vegetable sets. Divide summer- and fall-blooming perennials. Sow vegetable, annual and herb seeds. Shear conifers. Prune spring-flowering trees and shrubs since bloom is complete. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize azaleas, camellias, summer bulbs, vegetables, fruit trees, annuals, container gardens (including house plants). Continue rose care. Sow grass seed or install sod. Continue lawn care.

Pacific Northwest States: It's still possible to have late frost. Plant shrubs, trees, summer bulbs. Plant annuals, warm-season vegetables and herb sets, and sow warm-season annuals, vegetables and herb seeds, but be prepared to protect if late frost arrives. Divide crowded perennials. Shear evergreen shrubs and conifers. Prune spring-flowering plants when bloom is complete. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize azaleas, camellias when bloom is complete. Fertilize fruit trees, container gardens, annuals, vegetables and herbs. Continue rose care. Mulch trees, shrubs and vegetables.

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Garden Tasks For April

Among the most frequently asked questions, "When should I...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for April organized by region.

Northeast States: Frost danger continues. If you haven't begun sowing flats of warm-season annuals and vegetables indoors, get started. If you already have flats of growing warm-season annuals and vegetables, it might be time to transplant them into larger containers. Plant summer bulbs in containers indoors for putting out later. Begin planting and transplanting cold-hardy plants outdoors. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided. Prune shrubs and trees. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials as they emerge. Begin spring cleanup, if you haven't already. Check irrigation and make necessary repairs. Prepare planting beds.

Mid-Atlantic States: Frost danger continues. Finish sowing annuals, vegetables and herb seeds in flats indoors. Plant summer bulbs in containers indoors for putting out later. Plant bare-root perennials, potted roses, cool-season vegetable sets, annuals and strawberries in outdoor beds. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Sow cool-season vegetable and herb seeds outdoors. Prune trees, summer- and fall-blooming shrubs. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials as they emerge. Remove winter mulches. Begin rose care. Construct trellises for climbing vegetables and vines, set tomato stakes.

Mid-South States: Frost is still possible. Plant trees and shrubs. Plant summer bulbs, divide and transplant perennials. Plant container gardens. Sow vegetable and herb seeds in the garden. Transplant vegetable and herbs outdoors. Pinch runners from strawberry plants. Prune spring-blooming trees and shrubs when flowering is completed. Continue to remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Lightly fertilize annuals and vegetable seedlings. Fertilize spring bulbs when flowering is complete. Begin spraying fruit trees with dormant oil. Apply mulch to newly planted plants. Continue rose care. Install sod. Fertilize lawn when spring green-up occurs.

Lower South and Gulf States: Continue to plant container-grown trees and shrubs. Plant summer bulbs. Continue to divide and transplant perennials. Continue to plant container gardens. Sow warm-season annuals, vegetables and herbs. Transplant warm-season vegetable and herb seedlings. Shear spring-blooming trees and shrubs when flowering is complete. Shear conifers and evergreen shrubs. Pinch planted mums to delay bloom. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize camellias, azaleas, annuals, container gardens, summer bulbs, fruit trees. Spray fruit trees with insecticide and fungicide. Thin excess fruit from fruit trees. Continue rose care. Plant warm-season grass seed and install sod.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Frost is still possible. If you haven't begun sowing flats of warm-season annuals and vegetables indoors, get started. If you already have flats of growing warm-season annuals and vegetables, it might be time to transplant them into larger containers. Plant summer bulbs in containers indoors for putting out later. Begin planting and transplanting cold-hardy plants outdoors. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided. Prune shrubs and trees. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials as they emerge. Begin spring cleanup, if you haven't already. Check irrigation and make necessary repairs. Prepare planting beds. Remove winter mulches. Begin rose care. Construct trellises for climbing vegetables and vines, set tomato stakes. Mulch newly planted trees and shrubs.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Plant trees, shrubs, summer bulbs, annuals and vegetable sets. Divide summer- and fall-blooming perennials. Sow vegetable, annual and herb seeds. Shear conifers. Prune spring-flowering trees and shrubs when bloom is complete. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize azaleas, camellias, summer bulbs, vegetables, fruit trees, annuals, container gardens (including house plants). Continue rose care. Sow grass seed or install sod. Continue lawn care.

Pacific Northwest States: Frost danger continues. Plant shrubs, trees, summer bulbs. Construct trellises for climbing vegetables and vines, set tomato stakes. Plant annuals, warm-season vegetables and herb sets, and sow warm-season annuals, vegetables and herb seeds after last frost. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Divide crowded perennials. Shear evergreen shrubs and conifers. Prune spring-flowering plants when bloom is complete. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize azaleas, camellias when bloom is complete. Fertilize fruit trees, container gardens, annuals, vegetables and herbs. Continue rose care. Mulch trees, shrubs and vegetables.

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Put Your Garden To Bed And You'll Rest Better, Too.

When fall arrives, many gardeners are tempted to put off until spring what they should do today. Yield not to temptation. Necessary chores completed in a timely fashion will save time and labor, and give you a sense of satisfaction.  In other words, put your garden to bed and you'll rest better, too.

Before you begin your winter hibernation, complete these garden tasks:

Tidy up. Dead plants and garden debris provide shelter for insect pests and the four-footed varieties. Not only that, decaying plants also harbor fungi and plant diseases. But don't carry the debris street-side for trash collectors; compost it. Composting turns it into rich, organic material for next year's garden.
Most of us have childhood memories of Saturday afternoons raking up large piles of fallen foliage and jumping into them. Then the leaves were raked again and carted off to the curb. But there are better alternatives. If you insist upon a well-groomed lawn, collect the leaves and compost them. However, I prefer leaving them on the lawn and chopping them to bits with my lawnmower. A mulching attachment will reduce them to pieces small enough that they will filter into the grass, self-compost, and add to the organic content of your lawn. In fact, a mulching mower used all year long will return grass clippings to the lawn with the same result.

Prune. Pruning includes dead-heading your perennials. When bloom-time is over, many plants become unsightly. Dead-heading will improve the appearance of your garden and remove unwanted seeds. Furthermore, you will be making room for new spring growth, especially if you have interplanted with spring-blooming flower bulbs. If pruning trees or shrubs in autumn, only remove dead or dying tissue. Heavy pruning may stimulate new growth at a time when you need it least. New growth late in the year can be severely damaged by cold and compromise the health of your plants.

Fertilize. Fall fertilizing is done for different reasons than spring fertilizing. In spring, the object is to stimulate new top growth for lush foliage and abundant bloom. Fall fertilizing, however, is to stimulate root growth. Plants must have a good foundation to build upon next spring. Whether fertilizing lawn, garden, shrubs or trees, the purpose is the same. Fertilizers for fall application are formulated differently than those for spring. Nitrogen (N) content will be lower or in a slow-release form. Phosphorus (P) and potash (K) will be at relatively higher levels. When reading fertilizer formulations, know that the order is N-P-K. In addition to granular fertilizers, other organic additions may include compost and bone meal.

Plant flower bulbs. Many of us think of planting fall bulbs when we see crocuses, daffodils and tulips popping up in the spring. Too late! Fall is the time to plant those, so don't delay. It's best to plan your spring-flowering bulb purchases in July, order in August or September, and plant in September or October. But planting in October or November is still not too late. Be sure to buy high-quality bulbs in larger sizes. Larger bulbs produce more flowers sooner. Typically, discounters and big box stores carry smaller bulbs because they want to offer the lowest prices. You get what you pay for. Sometimes you don't even get what you pay for, so buy from a reputable source.

By the arrival of spring, gardeners can't wait to get into their gardens. What a disappointment to be faced with garden chores from fall still waiting. Get into your garden now while the air is clear and the temperature brisk. You'll enjoy it, feel better having done it, and your garden will be in better condition come spring.

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