Thursday, November 16, 2023

What foods were served for the first Thanksgiving?

Indian corn image by Deborah Hudson from Pixabay



The first Thanksgiving is believed to have taken place in November 1621 when the Pilgrims and native Wampanoags gathered at Plymouth for a fall feast. The Pilgrims’ first year was a disaster. After a three-month voyage, they arrived near Cape Cod in November, 1620 – not exactly their intended haven. Virginia Colony was the original destination, but storms prevented traveling south. With winter approaching, they organized a sort of communist enterprise in which they organized their efforts and pooled their resources. Governor William Bradford observed that communal living “was found to breed much confusion and discontent and retard much employment that would have been to their benefit and comfort.” Starvation and disease took their toll.

The settlers reorganized so everyone was made responsible for his and his family’s well-being. The strategy worked. So, with much help from the local Wampanoag people, the Pilgrims survived. They were thankful, indeed. A three-day feast was organized to show their gratitude to kind Providence.

What did they eat? I’m glad you asked. According to the journal of Edward Winslow, Governor Bradford sent a small party to hunt fowl. Were they turkeys, partridges, quail or pigeons? I don’t know. Winslow also noted that the Wampanoag contributed five deer. Beyond that, what they ate is a matter of speculation, but we can assume that they feasted on the fruits of their labors – home-grown vegetables, locally harvested fruits and seafood.

Behold the possibilities.

The Wampanoag might’ve instructed them in growing the “Three Sisters” – corn, pole beans and gourds/pumpkins planted together as companions.

Corn harvest was said to have been abundant that first year. ‘Abenaki Rose’ (NOT pictured above) was a common variety of “flint corn” in the Northeast about that time. Easy to dry but impossible to eat fresh, it was probably ground into meal and boiled into something like runny grits.

Beans would’ve been easily dried after harvest, then served up later in a soup or stew. “Amish Nuttle”  might’ve been included. It was well-known among the Iroquois, and possibly elsewhere.

Native squash were widely grown. Cultivars might’ve included ‘White Scallop’ (aka Patty Pan), ‘Long Island Cheese’ and some similar to Seminole pumpkins of the Southeast.

Some of these heirloom vegetable cultivars are available through specialty seed companies. Perhaps you can locate, grow and harvest them for an authentic 17th century North American Thanksgiving in 2024.

Other foods could’ve included American groundnut (Apios americana) , tree nuts (Juglans and Carya), acorns (Quercus spp.) late-ripening or dried fruits.

Being located near the coast, fish and shellfish would've been available.

If you gather around a heavily laden table groaning with typical Thanksgiving fare, think of those brave, stalwart, hungry souls of yesteryear, and be grateful for the abundance available to you.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Saturday, November 11, 2023

The Gardener's To-Do List for December

 

Image by Susanne Jutzeler, Schweiz 🇨🇭 suju-foto from Pixabay

We probably won’t feel like working in the garden, but there are some tasks we can accomplish even in December. Here are some to handle this month.

Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

Inspect your cold frames for needed repairs.
Plant trees and shrubs if you can still get your shovel in the ground.
Add more mulch to your garden beds.
Check the wrapping on your evergreen trees and shrubs, if you added any for snow protection.
Winterize your gas-powered garden tools, if you haven’t already. At the very least, drain fuel from the tanks and run the engines until they’ve used up what’s in the carburetors.
Complete maintenance of your garden tools by removing soil, applying a thin layer of oil.
It’s easy to forget watering during winter. Make sure your garden gets a couple inches each week.
Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.

South

Be ready to cover crops with frost cloth just in case temperatures drop severely.
Plant trees, shrubs and vines.
Add fallen leaves to your compost pile.
Add a couple inches of mulch to your garden beds.
Complete maintenance of your garden tools by removing soil, applying a thin layer of oil.
Make sure your garden gets a couple inches of water each week.
Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.

Midwest

Plant trees, shrubs and vines.
Inspect your cold frames for needed repairs.
Check your garden beds in case more mulch is needed.
Check the wrapping on your evergreen trees and shrubs, if you added any for snow protection.
Complete maintenance of your garden tools by removing soil and applying a thin layer of oil.
Don’t forget to water your garden. Rain and snowfall might not be enough during dry winters.
Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.

Pacific Northwest

Plant bare-root and container grown shrubs and trees.
Protect evergreen trees and shrubs from snow burdens.
Maintain your garden tools by removing soil and applying a thin layer of oil.
Make sure your garden gets a couple inches of water each week.
Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.

West Coast

Plant cold-hardy annuals and perennials.
Plant bare root trees, shrubs and vines.
Add compost to your garden.
Refresh mulch, if necessary.
Keep your plants well-watered.

Southwest

Plant winter vegetables and warm season annuals.
Be prepared to protect citrus from cold snaps.
Check frost protection fabric for tears.
Add compost to your garden beds.
Inspect your irrigation system for leaks. Now is no time to waste water.
Make needed repairs to your garden tools before the spring rush.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.



Wednesday, November 8, 2023

The Gardener's To-Do List for November

 

Scorpio image by Dorothe from Pixabay

Cold weather is nearly upon us. Some regions have already had their first snow. Here are some garden tasks to handle this month.

Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

  • Seed and plant catalogs are arriving in the mail. Better make your choices and order early while the selection is best.
  • If gardening over winter, inspect your cold frames for needed repairs. Construct low-profile hoop coverings for raised beds.
  • Plant cold-hardy perennials and add some mulch for protection.
  • Store your bountiful harvest over winter. A cool dark place is best. A root cellar, basement or utility room might do.
  • Clean up your garden by removing organic debris to the compost pile.
  • While you’re at it, turn that compost pile once again before winter sets in.
  • Mark your perennials and bulbs with garden stakes.
  • Plant trees and shrubs while you can still get your shovel in the ground.
  • Add a couple inches of mulch to your garden beds.
  • Protect evergreen trees and shrubs from breaking because of snow burdens. Wrapping them in burlap is a useful and inexpensive way of doing it.
  • Winterize your gas-powered garden tools, if you haven’t already. At the very least, drain fuel from the tanks and run the engines until they’ve used up what’s in the carburetors.
  • Complete maintenance of your garden tools by removing soil, applying a thin layer of oil to metal
  • parts.
  • Make sure your garden gets a couple inches of water each week.
  • Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.

South

  • Since it’s probably too late for you to sow seeds, plant winter vegetable sets in your gardens and raised beds.
  • Seed and plant catalogs are arriving in the mail. Order early while the selection is best.
  • Clean up your garden by removing organic debris to the compost pile.
  • Turn your compost pile once again.
  • Plant cold-hardy annuals.
  • Plant trees and shrubs because “Fall Is for Planting!”
  • Add a couple inches of mulch to your garden beds.
  • Winterize those gas-powered garden tools. Drain fuel from the tanks and run the engines until they’ve they run out of gas.
  • Complete maintenance of your garden tools by removing soil, applying a thin layer of oil.
  • Make sure your garden gets a couple inches of water each week.
  • Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.

Midwest

  • Plant cold-hardy perennials.
  • Add garden debris to your compost pile, and turn it again.
  • Plant trees, shrubs and vines.
  • If gardening over winter, inspect your cold frames for needed repairs. Construct low-profile hoop coverings for raised beds.
  • Store your harvest over winter. A cool dark place is best.
  • Seed and plant catalogs are arriving in the mail. Shop now while the selection is best.
  • Mark your perennials and bulbs with garden stakes.
  • Add a couple inches of mulch to your garden beds.
  • Protect evergreen trees and shrubs from breaking because of snow burdens. Wrapping them in burlap is a useful and inexpensive way of doing it.
  • Winterize your gas-powered garden tools, if you haven’t already. At the very least, drain fuel from the tanks and run the engines until they’ve used up what’s in the carburetors.
  • Complete maintenance of your garden tools by removing soil and applying a thin layer of oil.
  • Make sure your garden gets a couple inches of water each week.
  • Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.

Pacific Northwest

  • Prepare your cold frames and hoop structures over your raised beds.
  • Add compost to your garden beds.
  • Plant bare-root and container grown shrubs and trees.
  • Remove debris from your orchard and berry patches.
  • Protect evergreen trees and shrubs from snow burdens.
  • Winterize your gas-powered garden tools.
  • Complete maintenance of your garden tools by removing soil and applying a thin layer of oil.
  • Make sure your garden gets a couple inches of water each week.
  • Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.
  • Seed and plant catalogs are arriving in the mail. Better make your choices and order early while the selection is best.

West Coast

  • Seed and plant catalogs are arriving in the mail. Shop now while the selection is best.
  • Plant cold-hardy annuals, perennials and root vegetables.
  • Add compost to your garden.
  • Refresh mulch, if necessary.
  • Remove organic garden debris to your compost pile, and turn the pile once again.
  • Keep your plants well-watered.

Southwest

  • Plant winter vegetables and warm season annuals.
  • Seed and plant catalogs are arriving in the mail. Order early while the selection is best.
  • Be prepared to protect citrus from cold snaps.
  • Add compost to your garden beds.
  • Inspect your irrigation system for leaks. Now is no time to waste water.
  • Make needed repairs to your garden tools before the spring rush.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Thursday, October 12, 2023

Keeping A Garden Diary

  Diarist image by Pexels from Pixabay

When I was preparing my fall garden yesterday, I purposed to write down each and every step. I didn’t at the time, and if it weren’t for the dreary, rainy weather today, I might not still.

As William Allingham (d. 1889) wrote,

A man who keeps a diary, pays
Due toll to many tedious days;
But life becomes eventful--then
His busy hand forgets the pen.

But if yesterday’s gardening activities and thoughts aren’t noted, they’ll, no doubt, be forgotten, successes seldom repeated, failures repeated too often, and, perhaps, creative ideas remembered no more. We should, therefore, keep a garden diary.

I make this distinction between a garden diary and a mere journal. In most cases, a journal is simply a record of what has been done. A diary, however, may include much more. Yes, all those gardening details are included, but so are personal reflections, “thoughts and intents of the heart”, and other things besides.

What shall we write in?

There’s no rule here to follow; only preferences. I prefer a hard-bound octavo (8vo) size book, approximately 6” x 9”. Nothing smaller. My wife writes in a quarto (4to) 9.5” x 12” sketch book. Spiral-bound, paper-cover books don’t provide the permanence we desire.

There are gardening apps available for logging such things. I have one on my phone, in fact. It’s novel, but not as satisfying as putting a writing instrument to paper.

Now what? As any writer or artist will tell us, there’s nothing more intimidating than a blank page or canvas. But, begin we must. (Note: We mustn’t expect perfection at first. Writing will become easier as we go.)

So, what shall we include?

Details, details, details.

Every garden begins with a foundation, id est. soil. Gardening successes and failures usually depend on it. Whether planting in native or imported soils, let’s begin with a soil test. We can do it ourselves with a kit, available at garden shops or online, or stop by the nearby Cooperative Extension Office for assistance. Remembering that “this is only a test” and a snapshot of soil conditions at one place and time, the results are worth knowing. Believe it or not, soil test results can differ with the seasons, so take soil samples for testing the same time or times each year. Keep a record.

Times and seasons change, as does the weather. Take note of them (month, day, year) and weather as we work. Record early and late frosts, dry spells, and such. My grandparents were firm believers in “planting by the signs”, so kept a dog-eared Farmer’s Almanac close at hand all year long for handy reference. It made sense to them, and now to me. Let’s write it down. Did we or did we not plant during the right “sign”? Even if you’re not “a believer”, try it. You might be converted.

We should record the species and varieties in our gardens, their placement and spacing, their companions, and the sources of our seeds and plants. Those notes can be mighty important when we try to figure out later what went right or wrong. I even take note of the company brand names and “packed for” dates on seed packets.

Personal reflections.

I do more thinking in my garden than almost anywhere else. Before moving on too far beyond the moment, we may “set a spell” to compose a few lines. What does it matter if a bit of dirt gets on the paper? No one will see it, anyway. Dreams, creative ideas, future plans and prayers are fine subjects.

Souvenirs.

There’s no reason – none whatsoever – keeping us from using our garden diaries for pressing flowers and foliage. Though I haven’t done it recently, I’ll occasionally open an old volume to find a blossom or herb among the pages. Then, almost mysteriously, the fragile tissues will evoke memories of the time and place when they were tucked away. Other keepsakes might include such things as small newspaper or magazine clippings, photos, and empty seed envelopes.

Art for art’s sake.

Though it can be mighty frustrating, gardening is often inspirational. Sometimes romantic. With instrument in hand, let’s sketch some beautiful sight before us – a butterfly, fruit, flower, leaflet, a still life or landscape scene. Perhaps we can add a bit of watercolor, conté or colored pencil a little later.

If we’re inclined to poetry or prose, what better place to express ourselves without prying eyes judging our voices?

We might never become as accomplished as diarists Edith Holden or Samuel Pepys, nor should we judge ourselves by them, but our garden diaries may become more useful and precious to us in years to come because they are compositions of our very own and contain memories unique to ourselves.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

 

Pressed flower image by Ri Butov from Pixabay
 

Friday, October 6, 2023

The Gardener's To-Do List for October

 

Image by OpenClipart-Vectors from Pixabay

Robert Frost's poem, "October", perfectly evokes the images and sentiments of the month that is upon us.

       
O hushed October morning mild,
Thy leaves have ripened to the fall;
Tomorrow’s wind, if it be wild,
Should waste them all.
The crows above the forest call;
Tomorrow they may form and go.
O hushed October morning mild,
Begin the hours of this day slow.
Make the day seem to us less brief.
Hearts not averse to being beguiled,
Beguile us in the way you know.
Release one leaf at break of day;
At noon release another leaf;
One from our trees, one far away.
Retard the sun with gentle mist;
Enchant the land with amethyst.
Slow, slow!
For the grapes’ sake, if they were all,
Whose leaves already are burnt with frost,
Whose clustered fruit must else be lost—
For the grapes’ sake along the wall.

This poem is believed to be in the public domain.

Now that some of us are beginning to bundle up against the chill, let's go garden now. Here are some gardening suggestions for each region.

Northeast Region

  • Winterize your irrigation, but keep it available for use. You'll still need to water your plants.
  • Continue dividing your perennials.
  • Plant fall annuals, if you haven't done so already.
  • Protect your roses, removed dead or damaged parts, add extra mulch around the graft union.
  • Add finished compost to your garden beds.
  • Mulch your beds for cold protection.
  • Turn your compost pile, again.
  • Winterize your gas-powered tools. 
  • Pull up stakes and tomato cages, clean and remove to storage overwinter.
  • Clean up garden debris.
  • Begin harvesting your root vegetables.
  • Dead-head perennials.
  • Save seed, where possible, for planting next spring.
  • Cover your hoop houses and cold frames.
  • Store containers that might crack in winter in a protected, dry area.

Mid-Atlantic

  • Plant fall annuals, if you haven't already. 
  • Plant spring-flowering bulbs.
  • Winterize gas-powered tools.
  • Remove garden debris.
  • Clean hand tools and add a protective layer of oil to prevent rust.
  • Get your vegetable starter plants in the ground, if you haven't already.
  • Fertilize winter vegetables and cold-season annuals.
  • Remove spent plants and compost them.
  • Begin harvesting root vegetables, unless you intend to store them in the ground.
  •  Add a protective layer of mulch to your garden.
  •  Pull up stakes and tomato cages, clean and remove to storage overwinter.
  • Turn the compost pile.
  • Cover your hoop houses.
  •  Winterize your irrigation, but keep it available for use. You'll still need to water your plants.

Southeast

  • Cut and dry flowers and herbs for later use.
  • Collect and dry seeds for next year's planting, but leave some for the birds.
  • Plant your spring-blooming bulbs. 
  • Plant cool season annuals.
  • Divide your perennials.
  • Harvest fruits and vegetables.
  • Stop fertilizing trees and shrubs. 
  • Turn your compost pile, again.
  • Keep weeding!

Midwest

  • Plant fall annuals, if you haven't already. 
  • Winterize gas-powered tools.
  • Remove garden debris.
  • Clean hand tools and add a protective layer of oil to prevent rust.
  • Fertilize winter vegetables and cold-season annuals.
  •  Add a protective layer of mulch to your garden.
  • Turn the compost pile.
  • Cover your hoop houses.
  •  Winterize your irrigation, but keep it available for use. You'll still need to water your plants.

Pacific Northwest

  •  Continue harvesting fruits and vegetables.
  • Turn the compost pile.
  • Winterize garden tools.
  •  Clean hand tools and add a protective layer of oil to prevent rust.
  • Add protective mulch to your garden.
  • Winterize your irrigation, but keep it available for use. You'll still need to water your plants.
  • Direct-sow root vegetables and leafy salad greens.

 Pacific Coast

  • Continue harvesting fruits and vegetables.
  • Keep the garden clean of spent plants and weeds.
  • Gardeners in the southern region should plant spring-flowering bulbs.
  • Gardeners in the warmer region can continue the second round of planting for warm-season vegetables and annuals. 
  • Continue composting, turning the compost occasionally.
  • Add finished compost to the garden.
  • Mulch the vegetable and flower garden.
  •  Clean hand tools and add a protective layer of oil to prevent rust.

Southwest

  • Continue pest control.
  • Plant cacti and succulents, trees and shrubs. 
  • Plant cool-season annuals.
  • Continue regular garden maintenance.
  • Remove garden debris and compost it.
  • Turn the compost pile.
  • Add finished compost to the garden.
  • Continue irrigation, checking the system for maximum efficiency.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Monday, September 25, 2023

Plan Ahead to Protect Your Garden from Cold Weather

 

Garden image by FinjaM from Pixabay

We know the routine. Working through the seasons addressing immediate needs, we are often caught by surprising weather forecasts.

OMG! It’s gonna drop tonight into the teens or below! Better cover those tender plants, but with what?

Winter is coming. It always does. Don’t let frigid weather catch your garden unprepared. Get ready now.

There are lots of methods for protecting your garden from deep freezes. Here are a few:

Cloches. Garden cloches are bell- or cone-shaped covers that are placed over individual plants for frost protection. Cloches of yesteryear were made of clear glass. Most are now made of materials such as plastic, or frames covered with light-weight plastic sheeting, polypropylene or polyester fabric. The fabrics trap heat while still allowing light and moisture to pass through. Unless they have devices for allowing heat to escape, those of solid materials must be removed before too much heat builds up.

Frost fabrics. Frost fabrics are those light-weight materials as mentioned above for cloches, but purchased in much larger sheets. They work the same way and should be suspended over your plants, avoiding contact with foliage. This is often accomplished by draping the material over hoops or rods and anchoring the sides and ends to the garden soil or sides of raised beds to prevent the fabric from blowing off. These work fine unless a load of snow is forecast. In that case, the structures should have sloping sides to allow snow to slide off.

Greenhouses. These are commercially available in a wide range of sizes, materials and costs, or they can be homemade. You’ll find a host of videos on YouTube and other media sites to assist you with planning and completion.

Straw mulch. Mother Nature is hard to beat. Straw mulch can be laid around your plants – even over some of them – for protection. Mulch traps heat from the soil just as synthetic materials do. When winter is over and spring has sprung, the mulch can be raked aside and allowed to decompose in the garden, helping to retain moisture and enhancing soil fertility.

So, plan now to protect your garden from frigid weather. Gather your materials now and have them ready for use before that fateful weather forecast is announced.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Friday, September 1, 2023

The Gardener's To-Do List for September

 

Virgo image by Dorothe from Pixabay
Virgo

Helen Hunt Jackson's poem, "September", evokes the images and atmosphere of the month that we welcome so heartily.

        THE golden-rod is yellow;
        The corn is turning brown;
        The trees in apple orchards
        With fruit are bending down.
         
        The gentian's bluest fringes
        Are curling in the sun;
        In dusty pods the milkweed
        Its hidden silk has spun.
         
        The sedges flaunt their harvest,
        In every meadow nook;
        And asters by the brook-side
        Make asters in the brook.
         
        From dewy lanes at morning
        The grapes' sweet odors rise;
        At noon the roads all flutter
        With yellow butterflies.
         
        By all these lovely tokens
        September days are here,
        With summer's best of weather,
        And autumn's best of cheer.
         
        But none of all this beauty
        Which floods the earth and air
        Is unto me the secret
        Which makes September fair.
         
        'Tis a thing which I remember;
        To name it thrills me yet:
        One day of one September
        I never can forget.

This poem is in the public domain.

Now that we're feeling better after a brutal August, let's go garden now. Here are some gardening suggestions for each region.

Northeast Region

  • Plant spring-flowering bulbs.
  • Dig tender summer bulbs for storage over winter.
  • Stop fertilizing. You don't want tender new growth to emerge this time of year.
  • Divide perennials.
  • Continue to be on the lookout for insect pests. Pick them off, if possible, and destroy them. If pesticides are necessary, consider organic alternatives. Always read label instructions. 
  • Plant fall annuals.
  • Add finished compost to your garden beds.
  • Turn your compost pile, again.
  • Construct hoop houses and cold-frames to protect plants over winter and keep them producing.

Mid-Atlantic

  • Plant fall annuals. 
  • Plant spring-flowering bulbs.
  • Get your vegetable starter plants in the ground.
  • Stop fertilizing and pruning to avoid encouraging tender growth that could be damaged by the cold.
  • Remove spent plants and compost them.
  • Turn the compost pile.
  • Gather materials for hoop houses and cold-frames.

Southeast

  • Start winter annuals for transplanting later.
  • Cut and dry flowers and herbs for later use.
  • Order your spring-blooming bulbs, if you haven't already. 
  • Harvest fruits and vegetables.
  • Stop fertilizing trees and shrubs. 
  • Turn your compost pile, again.

Midwest

  • Plant your spring-flowering bulbs, if you live in the northern parts of the region.
  • Plant cool season annuals. 
  • Turn your compost pile.
  • Divide perennials.
  • Dig and store tender bulbs, tubers and rhizomes.

Pacific Northwest

  • Begin planting shrubs and trees.
  • Buy your spring-flowering bulbs.
  • Turn the compost pile.
  • Plant cool-season annuals.
  • Direct-sow root vegetables and leafy salad greens.

 Pacific Coast

  • Continue harvesting fruits and vegetables.
  • Keep the garden clean of spent plants and weeds.
  • Gardeners in the southern region should buy spring-flowering bulbs.
  • Gardeners in the warmer region can begin a second round of planting for warm-season vegetables and annuals.

Southwest

  • Continue pest control.
  • Plant cacti and succulents. 
  • Refresh annuals, as needed.
  • Continue regular garden maintenance.
  • Turn the compost pile.
  • Continue irrigation, checking the system for maximum efficiency. Don't waste water.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Friday, August 25, 2023

Go Garden Now and Relieve Your Stress

 

Image by Gerd Altmann from Pixabay

Are you stressed? News reports, family issues, job complaints, financial woes and more can bring us almost to the breaking point. Thankfully, there’s relief from stress just outdoors in our gardens.

Here are a few ways that happens.

Just being out in the sunshine can boost our spirits. Sunlight affects our moods just as dark days do. Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) is a problem for many folks during winter months. Symptoms may include feelings of depression, lack of energy, lethargy, cravings for snacks and sweets, difficulty focusing, anxiety and other feelings it’s hard to put your finger on. Even cloudy days make some people feel this way, but SAD seems to disappear on sunny days.

Sunshine also increases our bodies’ ability to synthesize natural Vitamin D, which is so important for our health and strengthening our bodies’ immune defenses. Add fresh air while being outdoors and you have a great combination.

Gardening puts us in touch with nature – bird songs, flowery scents, gentle breezes – and brings joy.

Can it be the trees that fill the breeze
With rare and magic perfume?

- "Love in Bloom" by Ralph Rainger and Leo Robin. 1934.

Gardening allows us to create beauty. Your own lovely sanctuary becomes a safe haven for contemplation, meditation, and relaxation. The garden provides a place for personal growth.

Lethargy and depression, like weeds, tend to grow if left unattended, but gardening allows us to produce something useful and beautiful, whether we are growing flowers for cutting, tomatoes for eating, or producing any of the many other benefits our gardens can yield.

So, come with me and let’s GoGardenNow.

Thursday, August 3, 2023

The Gardener's To-Do List for August

 

Leo image by Dorothe from Pixabay 
 
It's August! At this time of year, many garden chores are common to all regions of the United States. Frankly, the list for this month hasn't changed that much from the last, but there are a few different points to consider. Here they are, though this is not an exhaustive list.


For all gardens

  • Avoid overheating! Do your garden chores early in the morning or late afternoon. Heat stroke is a very real danger and should not be ignored.
  • Drink plenty of fluids.
  • Get ready for fall!
  • Start flower and vegetable seedlings for transplanting to your fall garden.
  • Fertilize when needed. Check for yellowing leaves and slowed growth.
  • If using synthetic granular fertilizer, water your garden first, apply fertilizer to moist soil, then water again. This will help to incorporate the amendment into the soil and reduce the risk of fertilizer burn.
  • Be on the lookout for insect pests. Pick them off, if possible, and destroy them. If pesticides are necessary, consider organic alternatives. Always read label instructions. 
  • Heat and humidity can contribute to plant diseases. Check your garden closely for signs of infection and remove affected plants to the compost bin.
  • Check your irrigation to make sure you are watering wisely and conserving as much as possible. Adjust as needed. This is especially important in arid regions.
  • Add finished compost to your garden beds.
  • Turn your compost pile, again.

For vegetable gardens

  • Plant vegetable seedlings or starter plants for your fall garden.
  • Keep pruning your vegetable plants. Tomatoes, cucumbers and other trellised plants will produce better crops if suckers are pinched off and unnecessary growth is removed.
  • Pick some types of fruiting vegetables before they fully mature to prevent the plants from ceasing production. This is especially true of cucumbers!
  • Remove spent vegetable plants and compost them.


For flower gardens

  • Fertilize your roses, again.
  • Deadhead flowers to keep the plants producing.
  • Prune coleus, stick the cuttings in fresh, moist potting soil and place them in the shade where they can root and be transplanted to your garden or containers.
  • Remove spent annuals and compost them.
  • Cut and dry flowers and herbs for later use.
  • Plant fall-blooming crocus.
  • Make plans to order your spring-blooming bulbs.

For lawns

  • Check oil level, air filter and tire pressure on your lawn mower before every use.
  • Water deeply only once or twice per week. Frequent shallow watering encourages shallow root penetration and causes the plants to need more frequent watering. Add watering days if the lawn looks stressed.
  • Watch for fungus diseases. If you can’t identify them, take samples or photos to your nearby Cooperative Extension Office for diagnosis and recommendations.


For shrubs and trees

  • Don’t forget to water them DEEPLY during dry spells.
  • Watch for insect pests and treat accordingly.
  • Remove and burn dead wood.
  • Avoid pruning after mid-August.
Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Thursday, July 13, 2023

Mazus! A solution plant for moist soil.

 

Mazus reptans

 
Most folks have one – a low, moist spot in the lawn. You’ve been meaning to do something about yours, but haven’t decided what. Here’s an idea. Plant mazus! So long as the soil isn’t under water or bone dry, mazus could be the ground cover for you.

Creeping Mazus (Mazus reptans) is a dense low-growing ground cover with bluish to white flowers that just LOVES moist soil. It grows to about 2” in height. Each plant spreads to about 12” across, but strikes roots as it grows, so for all practical purposes it spreads indefinitely.

Creeping Mazus produces lots of interesting lavender blue or white flowers resting on evergreen to semi-evergreen foliage from spring to summer. It’s cold-hardy to USDA climate zone 4, and tolerates heat into zone 9. Though it thrives in full sun and partial shade, partial shade is recommended particularly in hotter areas.

As long as the soil is consistently moist, mazus will thrive. The soil pH can range from 6.0 to 8.5.

Mazus tolerates some foot traffic, so it’s an ideal lawn substitute. You can plant it under downspouts and any other area where water temporarily collects.

Fertilize in spring to early summer. I think that organic lawn fertilizer is best, but if you choose to spread synthetic fertilizer, use a low-nitrogen 5-5-5 mix. Be careful to avoid fertilizers that might burn the tender green leaves. If you broadcast granular fertilizer with a spreader, be sure to water it in after applying to rinse off the plants.

It ought to go without saying, but I’ll say it anyway. Don’t use a broadleaf weed herbicide on your lawn where mazus is planted.

You might like mazus so well that you want to plant more in other moist areas. You can buy more, or you can propagate your own. Clip off runners about 6” long and stick the lower ends into small plastic pots with some moist premium potting mix. Keep them in the shade until they root, which shouldn’t take more than a few days. The rooted cuttings can be transplanted wherever needed. You can also divide your plants in early spring by slicing across a mature plant with a sharp spade, digging up one half and transplanting it elsewhere.

Growing Creeping Mazus really is that easy. Get started with your new mazus ground cover. 

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Monday, July 10, 2023

How to keep snakes out of your garden.

Snake Image by Karsten Paulick from Pixabay

Unless you are fond of snakes as pets, you probably don’t want them in your garden. Never mind that snakes have a beneficial side, i.e. eating vermin and similar pests. Venomous reptiles certainly pose a danger. Even non-poisonous species can give you a fright when encountered unexpectedly.

Here are a few things you can do to discourage them from taking up residence:

Install a “snake-proof” fence. When my father-in-law (of saintéd memory) would sit on my front porch and come up with more things for me to do, installing a snake-proof fence around my property was one of them. He was thinking of his daughter’s and grandchildren’s safety, of course, but I thought it was a little ridiculous. I had over 3,600’ of property line. I didn’t do it then, nor would I now. But a much smaller area – like a kitchen garden – would be considerably easier to enclose. Here’s how:

  • Select galvanized or aluminum hardware cloth with small mesh.
  • Fencing should be about 48 inches wide. That will allow you to bury about 10 inches or more in the ground and leave the rest above-ground.
  • Slant the fencing outward to discourage determined critters from climbing over.

Remove hiding places from the area. Stacked wood, posts, overturned pots and such need to go. I admit my kitchen garden is not so tidy. I carefully turn upside-down pots with a long stick if they’ve been there for a while.

Discourage rodents. If serpents aren’t hiding under things, they’re searching for food. Rats and mice are on their menu. If you have outdoor pets, keep their kibbles stashed away until feeding time. Rodents just LOVE pet food. I once found a rat stash of dry cat food under the hood of my old Chevy Caprice! Well, rodents entice snakes. We won't let that happen again.

Keep weeds down. Doing so will discourage rodents and their reptilian predators.

Consider gardening in tall, raised beds. Many styles are on the market. Some range from 12” to 32” or more in height. The metal ones are much more difficult for snakes to enter for lounging among your bush beans.

Apply a protective barrier of snake repellent. Moth balls and vinegar are reputed to keep them at bay, or you can purchase commercially prepared repellents from your local lawn and garden store. Bear in mind that all snake repellents don’t repel all snakes, but many venomous snakes are most likely to be repulsed. Snake repellents will need to be re-applied.

To allay some of your fears, I suggest learning how to identify snakes native to your region. In the event that you come across a snake in the grass, you’ll know better how to react appropriately.

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Monday, June 26, 2023

The Gardener's To-Do List for July

Cancer zodiac constellation

July is upon us. At this time of year, many garden chores are common to all regions of the United States. Here they are, though this is not an exhaustive list.

For all gardens

  • Get ready for fall!
  • Start flower and vegetable seedlings for transplanting to your fall garden.
  • Fertilize when needed. Check for yellowing leaves and slowed growth.
  • If using synthetic granular fertilizer, water your garden first, apply fertilizer to moist soil, then water again. This will help to incorporate the amendment into the soil and reduce the risk of fertilizer burn.
  • Good garden hygiene is essential for healthy gardens. Remove dead and dying material to the compost bin.
  • Add soft-tissue plant clippings to your compost bin.
  • Check your irrigation to make sure you are watering wisely and conserving as much as possible. Adjust as needed. This is especially important in arid regions.
  • Refresh mulch in your garden beds to conserve water.
  • Add compost to your garden beds.
  • Turn your compost pile, again.
  • Keep a sharp eye out for pests – sucking aphids, chomping beetles, munching larvae, hornworms, and the like. Pick them off and destroy them, if you can find them. Otherwise, opt for targeted organic solutions rather than using indiscriminate chemical applications.
  • Water all plants before applying synthetic or organic chemicals to avoid tissue damage. Dry plants are more susceptible to damage.
  • Keep your garden tools clean, dry and sharp to lengthen their lifespan and make your work easier.


For vegetable gardens

  • Plant vegetable seedlings or starter plants for another round of production before summer ends.
  • Keep pruning your vegetable plants. Tomatoes, cucumbers and other trellised plants will produce better crops if suckers are pinched off and unnecessary growth is removed.
  • When removing tomato suckers, stick them in quart containers with fresh, moist potting soil. Keep them in the shade. They’ll root and you can transplant to your garden.
  • Check your fruiting vegetables, (e.g. okra, tomatoes, eggplants, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins and melons) for fruit. If the plants are developed enough, but not setting enough fruit, they might not be getting sufficient pollination from bees. If you are watering with an overhead sprinkler, this could keep the bees from working. Instead, irrigate with a watering wand at the base of your plants.
  • Pick some types of fruiting vegetables before they fully mature to prevent the plants from ceasing production. This is especially true of cucumbers!
  • Stake tall plants to prevent wind damage or structural collapse from heavy yields.
  • Squirrels, rabbits and groundhogs can dig in your soil, uproot your plants and eat your veggies. Trap and remove them (humanely) or cover your crops with netting.
  • Remove spent vegetable plants and compost them.


For flower gardens

  • Fertilize your roses, again.
  • Stake tall plants to prevent wind damage.
  • Deadhead flowers to keep the plants producing.
  • If you’ve been deadheading your garden mums, you can stop now. This will allow them to produce more in fall.
  • Prune geraniums (i.e. Pelargoniums), stick the cuttings in fresh, moist potting soil and place them in the shade where they can root and be transplanted to your garden or containers.
  • Remove spent annuals and compost them.
  • Sow seeds of biennials such as Alcea, Bellis, Campanula, Digitalis and Viola now for next year’s bloom.
  • Cut and dry flowers and herbs for later use.
  • Seeds can be gathered from dried flowers such as Coreopsis, Echinacea and Rudbeckia to be scattered in your little wildflower meadow-ette for future enjoyment.


For lawns

  • Keep your lawnmower blades sharp. Dull blades damage grass leaves, enable disease entry, and make your lawn look UGLY!
  • Water deeply only once or twice per week. Frequent shallow watering encourages shallow root penetration and causes the plants to need more frequent watering. Add watering days if the lawn looks stressed.
  • Do your mid-summer fertilizing.
  • Watch for fungus diseases. If you can’t identify them, take samples or photos to your nearby Cooperative Extension Office for diagnosis and recommendations.


For shrubs and trees

  • Don’t forget to water them DEEPLY during dry spells. This is especially true of newly planted items.
  • Watch for borers. If you discover them too late, you should remove the infected plants and burn them to prevent the borers from migrating to other plants.
  • Remove and burn dead wood.
  • Prune flowering shrubs soon after blooming.


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Friday, June 16, 2023

A Brief History of The Trustees' Garden - Savannah, GA


Map of Florida


Before the Colony of Georgia was founded in 1733, the Margravate of Azilia was conceived. The territory was to be ruled by a military governor, i.e. a margrave. 

Sir Robert Montgomery and Colonel John Barnwell proposed this venture in 1717 for lands south of Carolina.

It was disputed territory. Spanish, French and English had claimed it. French incursions had probed the east coast from Port Royal, SC, southward. The Spanish had pretty much established themselves in La Florida since 1513 and were well-rooted in St. Augustine. 


Map of St. Augustine Florida environs


England and Spain agreed by treaty that whichever should actually settle the land would possess it. In fact, though, Spain had withdrawn to positions south of the St. John’s River, and the Carolina Proprietors were having a hard time controlling the southern territory. So, possession of the area between Charles Town and St. Augustine was contestable.

Here’s when Montgomery and Barnwell entered the picture. Sir Robert, 5th Scottish Baronet of Skelmorlie, applied for permission to settle the area between the Savannah and Altamaha rivers. It would serve as a buffer colony between Florida and Carolina, i.e. between the English and the Spanish. The Carolina Proprietors agreed, so long as it didn’t cost them anything. Royal approval, however, was never granted. 

Plan of Margravate of Azilia


To sell the idea to investors and settlers, Montgomery published a booklet, A Discourse Concerning the Design’d Establishment of a New Colony to the South of Carolina, in the Most Delightful Country of the Universe. Though he never visited the area, Montgomery, like any real estate developer, wrote the most glowing descriptions to promote it.

There’s no record of Barnwell ever visiting, either.

To begin, Montgomery assured his readers of his integrity. “It has been commonly observ’d, that gay Descriptions of new Countries raise a Doubt of their Sincerity. Men are apt to think the Picture drawn beyond the Life, to serve the Interest of the Representer.” Not in this case. He assured them that he’d learned from the most reputable sources, and that his motives were purely in service of his fellow man.

It lies in the same Latitude with Palestine Herself, That promis’d Canaan, which was pointed out by God’s own Choice, to bless the Labours of a favourite People; It abounds with Rivers, Woods, and Meadows. Its gentle Hills are full of Mines, Lead, Copper, Iron, and even some of Silver; ‘Tis beautified with odoriferous Plants, green all the Year. Pine, Cedar, Cypress, Oak, Elms, Fruit or Timber Trees grow every where so pleasantly that tho’ they meet at Top, and shade the Traveller, they are, at the same Time, so distant in their Bodies, and so free from Underwood, or Bushes, that the Deer, and other Game, which feed in Droves along these Forests, may be often seen near half a Mile between them.



“The Air is healthy, and the Soil in general fruitful, and of infinite Variety; Vines, naturally flourishing upon the Hills, bear Grapes in most luxuriant Plenty. They have every Growth, which we possess in England, and almost every Thing that England wants besides. The Orange, and the Limon thrive in the same common Orchard with the Apple, and the Pear-Tree, Plumbs, Peaches, Apricots, and Nectarins, bear from Stones in three Years growing. The Planters raise large Orchards of these Fruits to feed their Hogs with, Wheat Ears have been measur’d there seven Inches long, and they have Barly, Beans, Pease, Rice, and all our Grains, Roots, Herbs, and Flowers, not to speak of Numbers of their own, which we can find no Names for; Beef, Mutton, Pork, Tame Poultry, wild Fowl, Sea and River Fish, are all there plentiful, and most at lower Rates, than in the cheapest Parts of Wales, or Scotland.”


James Edward Oglethorpe
General James Edward Oglethorpe

For various reasons, the Margravate of Azilia didn’t get off the ground, but the idea of a buffer colony established around trade and agriculture settled by hard-working farmers and merchants ready to bear their arms against the Spanish gained traction. Within 16 years, General James Edward Oglethorpe arrived with his band to settle the colony of Georgia.


Savannah Georgia 1734

The Trustees' Garden was established in 1734 on a ten acre plot just to the east of the Savannah settlement to explore agricultural possibilities. Something somewhat akin to the Chelsea Physic Garden was envisioned, but with emphasis on commerce. Several high-value crops were tested. 

 

Mulberry and silk worm
Morus alba and Bombyx mori

 

Silk. Since luxurious silk was in such high demand and commanded high prices, it was hoped that domestic sericulture would become a profitable enterprise in the American colonies. All that was needed were silk worms (Bombyx mori), mulberry trees and the right climate. The potential for silk seemed logical since red mulberry (Morus rubra) was native to the continent from Vermont to south Florida. White mulberry leaves (Morus alba), the preferred food of silkworms, was imported and did quite well. It eventually naturalized in North America.

According to an article by L. O. Howard, Ph. D. published in the USDA Yearbook of 1903  “Silk culture is said to have been introduced into New England about the year 1660 by a Mr. Aspinwall, who had nurseries of the mulberry at New Haven and on Long Island. Some trees were transplanted in Manslield, Conn., and Mr. Aspinwall furnished the inhabitants of that town with the eggs of the silkworm. Reverend Doctor Stiles, an early president of Yale College, aided Mr. Aspinwall in his efforts to introduce the culture in Connecticut.” Silk was also grown in Virginia and South Carolina, so it wasn’t far-fetched to try silk culture in Georgia. But despite those early and subsequent efforts, silk production didn’t take off in Georgia.


Cannabis sativa
Cannabis sativa

Hemp. Note that Cannabis sativa, aka hemp, is of two types: industrial and “medicinal.” Industrial hemp is high in fiber and low in psychoactive THC. “Medicinal” hemp might contain from 3% to 30% THC. It has been grown for millennia, principally in China, India, and Arabia, but eventually spread to Europe and the Americas. Both types were grown extensively in early America without much distinction between them.

Cannabis has been highly valued for its many uses. Fiber has been used in cordage and clothing. Seeds have been used for food and oil. The leaves had their own, special application. Hemp was useful for trade, barter, and even for paying taxes. No wonder, then, that it was included as a crop in the Trustees' Garden. For governments, cannabis has been a bane and then a boon.


Linum usitatissimum

Flax. Linum usitatissimum was another desirable commodity known to have been used for about 30,000 years in the manufacture of linen fabric. From underwear to bed sheets, linen would always be in demand. Investing in the linen trade was a sure-thing like buying stock in toothpaste production; it was always in use, needed to be replaced, and necessary for everyone.


Grapes
Vitis spp.

Grapes. When colonists first arrived on these shores, they found grapes growing practically everywhere. How fortuitous! Take a walk through our southern woodlands and you’ll see something like what they discovered. Cultivation began immediately. In fact, the oldest grape vine on the continent is thought to be The Mother Vine, Vitis rotundifolia, on Roanoke Island, NC. Perhaps it was dug from the forest and transplanted by settlers of The Lost Colony about 400 years ago. Life back then was tough, but joys could be found. As the Preacher of Ecclesiastes instructed, “Go, eat your bread with joy, And drink your wine with a merry heart; For God has already accepted your works.” Colonists took it to heart. I can find no mention of the species and varieties grown in Trustees' Garden, but grapes were among the crops.


Olive
Olea spp.

Olives. Since Georgia lay in the “same Latitude with Palestine Herself, That promis’d Canaan” and olives (Olea spp.) were abundant in the Holy Land, they were tested in the Trustees' Garden. For whatever reason, olives did not become an important commercial crop in Georgia, but as of this writing olives are making something of a comeback. Olives are showing up in yards, gardens and orchards. Olive oil is now produced in limited batches in the southernmost part of the state.

 

Indigo plant
Indigofera spp.

Indigo. Indigofera, native to India, was an important cash crop wherever the local climate would allow it to be grown. Unless one wanted to dress in shades of gray and brown, dye was needed. Indigo was such a source.

Almost as soon as colonists set foot in North America, they set about to grow indigo. Crops were tested from New York to Louisiana. By the 1730s, efforts were made in South Carolina beginning with seeds sent to Charleston from Antiqua by 16 year old Eliza Lucas, a budding botanist. Before long, the indigo industry began to take off. Nearby Savannah, Georgia got into the action when seeds were planted in the Trustees' Garden.

Indigo cultivation, like most agriculture of the day, was labor intensive. The White people in the upper ranks of society didn’t think they were cut out for that kind of work. So slaves were imported to carry "The White Man’s Burden". Rudyard Kipling scathingly denounced such servitude about 200 years later. As a matter of fact, slavery was outlawed in Georgia UNTIL laborers were needed to expand and sustain the indigo industry, then altruism was tossed out the window. There were also cotton and rice enterprises to expand. 


James Henry Hammond
James Henry Hammond

Cotton. This was the first place in North America where cotton was planted for potential commercial production. Enough is known about cotton that nothing needs to be written about it here. Needless to say, though, it became and continues to be immensely important. It was James Henry Hammond (1807-1864) of South Carolina who coined the phrase, “Cotton is king” in a speech before the U.S. Senate in 1858.

No, you dare not make war on cotton. No power on earth dares to make war upon it. Cotton is king.

Just so you know, Hammond was not a nice person, to put it mildly. A reading of his Secret and Sacred diaries will reveal plenty.


Cochineal

Cochineal. This exotic crop was also tested at the Trustee’s Garden. Cochineal (Dactylopius coccus) is a little “bug” that produces carminic acid, which is actually a deterrent to its enemies. But it is a valuable dye used to color textiles, cosmetics, and food.  Feeding on some species of cactus, these little critters are cultivated, harvested and mashed to extract the red colorant.

Cochineal extract is non-toxic. Just think, though. When you put on that lipstick, it might be made of bug juice.

Since south Georgia is home to native Eastern Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia humifusa), it seemed that it would be a likely place for a cochineal industry to flourish. It didn’t. Cochineal production is now limited mainly to Peru and other Central and South American countries. But maybe cochineal can come into its own in Georgia as the new olive industry attests.

Now that your interest in Savannah’s Trustees' Garden has been piqued, wouldn’t you like to see it?

 

Trustees' Garden site

That’s it. As Joni Mitchell sang,

“Don't it always seem to go
That you don't know what you've got 'til it's gone
They paved paradise, put up a parking lot.”


The Trustees' Garden served its purpose and was abandoned to be occupied by a fort and businesses including Kehoe’s Iron Works and Savannah Gas Light’s facility for converting coal to gas. The site now serves a multi-use entertainment/cultural facility and the Pirate’s House restaurant.

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Tuesday, May 30, 2023

The Gardener's To-Do-List for June

 


June is here. These are some things to do for your garden.

No matter where you live, you should:

Keep a sharp eye out for pests – sucking aphids, chomping beetles, munching larvae, hornworms, and the like. Pick them off and destroy them, if you can find them. Otherwise, opt for targeted organic solutions rather than using indiscriminate chemical applications.

Keep pruning your vegetable plants. Tomatoes, cucumbers and other trellised plants will produce better crops if suckers are pinched off and unnecessary growth is removed.

Northeast

  • Plant cucumbers, squash, pumpkins and melons outdoors.
  • Fertilize your roses, again.
  • Turn your compost pile, again.
  • Watch out for June bugs.
  • Remove dead flowers from spring bulbs.
  • Plant eggplants and tomatoes outside.
  • Add mulch if necessary.

Mid-Atlantic

  • Squirrels, rabbits and groundhogs can dig in your soil, uproot your plants and eat your veggies. Trap and remove them (humanely) or cover your crops with netting.
  • Plant curcurbits (squash, cucumbers, pumpkins, etc.) outside.
  • Time to plant your tomatoes and eggplants.
  • Divide spring-flowering bulbs.
  • Add mulch if necessary.

Mid- and Lower South

  • If you don’t have any extra, stop by a local nursery for seedlings and till in any empty spaces.
  • Remove and compost early season root vegetables that are starting to go to flower.
  • Keep watering your garden.
  • Add compost to your garden.
  • Turn your compost pile and add more to it.
  • Fertilize roses, again.
  • Check for pests and diseases.
  • Squirrels, rabbits and groundhogs can dig in your soil, uproot your plants and eat your veggies. Trap and remove them (humanely) or cover your crops with netting.

Midwest

  • Plant cucumbers, squash, pumpkins and melons outdoors.
  • Squirrels and rabbits can dig in your soil, uproot your plants and eat your veggies. Trap and remove them (humanely) or cover your crops with netting.
  • Fertilize your roses, again.
  • Turn your compost pile, again.
  • Watch out for June bugs.
  • Remove dead flowers from spring bulbs.
  • Plant eggplants and tomatoes outside.

Pacific Northwest

  • Plant cucumbers, squash, pumpkins and melons outdoors.
  • Fertilize your roses, again.
  • Turn your compost pile, again.
  • Watch out for June bugs.
  • Remove dead flowers from spring bulbs.
  • Watch for fungus diseases.
  • Plant eggplants and tomatoes outside.

West Coast

  • Plant cucumbers, squash, pumpkins and melons outdoors.
  • Fertilize your roses, again.
  • Turn your compost pile, again.
  • Watch out for fungus diseases and insect pests.
  • Remove dead flowers from spring bulbs.
  • Plant eggplants and tomatoes outside.

Southwest

  • Check your irrigation to make sure you are watering wisely and conserving as much as possible.
  • Mulch your garden beds to conserve water.
  • Add compost to your garden beds.
  • Fertilize your roses again.

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Saturday, May 27, 2023

Debbie's Charming Cottage Garden

 


Seen nestled behind a pecan grove, you’d think this charming cottage was built at least 150 years ago. But it’s much newer, built in 1990. Debbie moved to south Georgia over 40 years ago, but felt homesick for the place of her childhood in East Tennessee. After a few years in the area, she came upon a design that reminded her so much of her mountain home.

Her antique furnishings, décor and collectibles are in keeping with the homespun design. Visitors feel like they’ve stepped back into a simpler age. You’ll have to imagine it, though. The interior is not on display here.

While we stopped by to deliver some strawberries, Debbie allowed me to mosey around her little garden and take a few photos. I’m sharing them with you.

One of the joys of gardens, at least to me, is smelling the fragrance of flowers, and crushing the leaves of aromatic herbs for savoring. Debbie's roses, dianthus, verbena, achillea and bay delight the senses.

Her little place reminds us that delightful gardens needn't be large or ostentatious to be satisfying. They can be comfortable, small and intimate.

Follow me and see what grows in Debbie's garden.

Multiflora rose


Rosa 'The Fairy'

Verbena 'Homestead Purple'

Rosemary and Bay

Mutliflora rose

Achillea millefolium

Rosa 'The Fairy'

Oxalis

Dianthus and Oxalis

The cottage garden

Magnolia grandiflora

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