Asiatic Jasmine – Your Evergreen, Easy, Weed-Smothering Solution

 

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Thinking again about Asiatic Jasmine?

Asiatic Jasmine (Trachelospermum asiaticum) is a fast-growing, evergreen ground cover known for its dense, carpet-like growth and low-maintenance nature. Unlike true jasmine, it doesn’t produce showy flowers, but its lush, dark green foliage provides year-round beauty. This hardy plant thrives in various conditions, tolerating drought, shade, and even foot traffic once established.

Uses:

• Ground Cover: Ideal for erosion control on slopes and banks, preventing soil loss while adding greenery.

• Weed Suppression: Forms a thick mat that naturally crowds out weeds, reducing maintenance.

• Landscaping Alternative: A great substitute for grass in shaded areas where turf struggles.

• Container Planting & Hanging Baskets: Can be used in pots or hanging baskets, where it spills over beautifully.

Asiatic Jasmine is perfect for homeowners and landscapers seeking a durable, attractive, and low-upkeep solution for challenging spaces.

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How to replace turf with asiatic jasmine.

Q: We want to cover zoysia turf with asiatic jasmine....[but] wonder if we must remove the turf, or can we plant the jasmine over very closely cropped zoysia? Also, how do we plant "bare root" jasmine? Thanks for answering all the rookie questions.

A: Yours are good questions. Thanks for asking.

I understand that you want to replace the turf with asiatic jasmine, but don't know whether to remove the zoysia or plant into it. Though I often recommend tilling, removing the turf and/or tilling the soil will expose weed seeds that have been long-dormant, resulting in a weed problem. On the other hand, the living turf will present competition for moisture and nutrients the jasmine will need. Why not crop the turf, spray it with herbicide and leave the dead grass in place? The zoysia should expire in about 10 to 14 days. This will leave a mulch cover over undisturbed soil. Unless the soil in the planting site is compacted,  the jasmine should grow well. If the soil is a little compacted, you could loosen it around each planting hole with a trowel before installing the jasmine. Incorporate a bit of fertilizer or compost in each hole before planting, taking care that synthetic fertilizer doesn't contact the new plants.

Planting bare root is easy enough, though takes a little care. Be sure that the roots are kept moist before planting. Do not allow them to dry out. Follow the instructions about loosening the soil and adding fertilizer or compost as noted above. Make sure that the roots are spread out a bit and covered with sufficient soil. Water well. Maintain soil moisture until the plants are established, allowing the soil to drain before irrigating again. Don't drown them with love. Depending on your site, considering sun, wind, etc.,  you might be watering every couple of days. Monitor the condition of the plants and soil throughout the season. Once asiatic jasmine is established, though, it is tolerant of dry conditions.

You could add some mulch on the dead zoysia between the jasmine, if you like, for extra moisture retention and weed suppression. Since you live in the South, pine straw might be readily available to you. Don't blanket the jasmine plants themselves.

I hope this helps. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to contact me.

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Great Plants For Your Rain Garden

In an earlier blog article – How To Create A Rain Garden – we discussed an important element – rain garden planting zones. Here's what you need to know.

Divide your rain garden into zones, and select plants appropriate to each. Depending on the size of the garden, you might choose plants ranging in size from low ground covers to perennials, small or even large shrubs.

    • Zone 1 is the deepest where water will stand the longest. Plants for this area should be able to thrive in standing water for awhile.

    • Zone 2 is an intermediate area where water will stand for short periods, but drain away. It is just above and wraps around Zone 1. Plants for this area should be able to grow in wet or dry ground.

    • Zone 3 is the uppermost, wrapping around the other two, and will be the driest. Plants for this area should be able to withstand periods of dry weather.

Here are some plant suggestions for each zone.

Zone 1

• Blue Sedge with its blue-green arching leaves is a perfect plant for that area where drainage is a problem. It's ideal for naturalizing, bog gardens, rain gardens, water gardens, container gardens, and erosion control. As a lawn substitute, it will tolerate some foot traffic. It's also deer resistant! Carex 'Bunny Blue'® is a very attractive variety.
• Japanese Sweet Flag thrives in wetlands like along ponds, rain gardens or pools, and can even grow when submersed. It's one of the best grassy solutions for those problem areas with poorly drained soils.
• Golden Creeping Jenny is an excellent ground cover solution for any size area. It's also successful in container gardens, hanging baskets, bog gardens and perennial borders. Because it tolerates some foot traffic, Lysimachia is perfect around patios and between stepping stones.
• Mazus is a preferred ground cover for moist soils of any size area. Lush green leaves form a low, dense mat. Foliage is evergreen in warmer climates to semi-evergreen in cooler zones. Small, lavender or white flowers bloom from spring to summer.
•  Mondo grass is tolerant of wet areas as well as dry. It’s deer resistant, and tolerates some foot traffic.
• Royal Fern is a lovely native species that performs well in a wide range of climate zones. Light green fronds with burgundy-tinged edges emerge in spring, and turn medium green during the growing season. In fall, fronds turn yellow shades. Royal fern is clump-forming. Mature height is 24 inches to 60 inches. Foliage is dormant in winter. Royal fern is deer resistant.

Zone 2

• Appalachian Sedge is a graceful plant, native to the Eastern U.S. It has very fine, dark green, weeping blades, 12" long.  The leaf blades are evergreen in warmer climates. It has a clumping habit, and spreads slowly, making it suitable for borders. It's a great ground cover and lawn-grass substitute in dry shade.
• Creeping Lily Turf is a choice plant for a low maintenance ground cover in sun or shade. Evergreen foliage forms a dense, grassy covering that tolerates foot traffic, making it a fine lawn grass substitute, especially for those areas you'd prefer not to mow. It can take a period of wet weather, as well as drought.
• Blue Star Creeper is amazing. It tolerates a wide variety of soil conditions – wet or dry. If you're looking for a low-maintenance, low-profile, quickly growing ground cover with a long bloom season, consider Blue Star Creeper. Use it where you want a low-maintenance cover at a distance from high-traffic areas.
• Mondo grass, as mentioned above, is tolerant of a wide range of soil conditions. If you need a low-maintenance, lush, evergreen grass substitute for full sun to shade that tolerates a wide range of soil conditions, we highly recommend Mondo.
• Pennsylvania Sedge is a fine native plant choice for dry shade.  Use it for naturalizing, and erosion control. Pennsylvania sedge is deer resistant, too.

Zone 3

• Achillea – Yarrow. Achillea has long-lasting flowers, is drought-tolerant, repels pests, and is aromatic.
• Ajuga – Bugleweed. Ajuga is a drought-tolerant evergreen plant prized for its dynamic color that stays compact and thick year round.
• Asiatic Jasmine is a very desirable for ground cover and borders in warmer climates. It can be neatly edged for a manicured appearance. Asiatic Jasmine thrives in sun or shade, suppresses weeds, and resists hungry deer. Its dense habit will slow any rapid flow of water.
• Appalachian Sedge is mentioned above. It’s a fine plant for Zone 3 also.
• Black-eye Susan attracts butterflies. Birds get enthusiastic about the seeds. All varieties are reasonably drought-tolerant. They're especially suited to naturalizing, wildflower meadows, cutting gardens, wildlife gardens, native plant collections, heritage and cottage gardens. But they're wonderful in any perennial garden or border.
• Blue Pacific Juniper is an excellent ground cover solution for medium to large coastal gardens. It thrives in dry, sandy soils, is salt tolerant, and is very effective for erosion control. It's deer resistant, too!
• Coneflower is a tough and ever-popular addition to any perennial garden. Echinacea is loved around the world for its beautiful, showy flowers and reputed herbal remedies. It’s an ideal native plant for the dry area around the rain garden. If only all our plants could be so useful.
• Coreopsis is a bright-flowered plant with blossoms shaped like large asters. It does well in dry areas, and is well-suited to wildlfower gardens. Coreopsis is native to the U.S., and, thankfully, its ornamental value is widely appreciated.
• Pennsylvania Sedge is mentioned above. It is a good choice for Zone 3, also.

These are not exhaustive lists of plants suitable plants for rain gardens. But, with these plants to choose from, you can certainly create a lovely, low-maintenance, and sustainable rain garden.

FAQ: What is the advantage of plants in 3-1/4 inch pots over 2-1/2 inch pots?

Q. What is the advantage of buying plants in 3-1/4 inch pots over 2-1/2 inch pots, or vice versa?

A. The advantage has more to do with your circumstances and choice than with the pot sizes themselves. The better choice is subjective.

I'm including a picture of Asiatic Jasmine - Trachelospermum asiaticum - in a 2-1/2 inch pot (left) and 3-1/4 inch pot (right). Beside the obvious difference in pot size, you see a larger plant and larger root mass in the 3-1/4 inch pot. You should expect that the larger plant will establish itself and spread faster than the smaller one.

But there are other considerations for you: time and money. If you have a lot of area to cover, and your budget is limited, you might do better with plants in 2-1/2 inch containers. Sure, it'll take a little longer to achieve the desired coverage, but you'll have more money left in your pocket.

However, plants in larger containers may be planted farther apart. Then it'll take them a little longer to fill in the space. Soooo, you might end up spending the same if you buy the larger plants, and increase the spacing.

On the other hand, the difference in time to achieve coverage might be negligible, depending upon their actual rate of growth. That depends on many factors: climate, soil, care.

Large plants are more noticeable in the landscape from the get-go. If that matters to you, go with the larger plants.

If I had all the money I wanted, I'd install the larger plants cheek-to-jowl, and get instant coverage. But I don't. So I, as you, would make my decision based upon the present circumstances. What do you have more of? Time or money? How would you compromise?

Dear Reader, I'd like to know what you think. How have you handled these kinds of decisions? Let us know in the Comment section. I'd love to hear from you.

FAQ: Are there any special requirements for bare root?

Asiatic Jasmine - Trachelospermum asiaticum - Bare Root

Q. Are there any special requirements for bare root? Want to purchase but need to know what I’m getting into.

A. Good question. Since there is no soil around the roots to provide protection, they must not be allowed to dry out. When the plants arrive, set the bundles upright in the box. Protect the package from exposure to wind, sun, freezing temperatures. Keep slightly moist.

When planting, do the same. A few minutes exposure can be damaging.

Have the soil prepared and the holes "punched" in the ground before you begin. Cover the roots after planting each one. Water well after planting to set the soil in contact with the roots.

Do not allow synthetic fertilizer - especially dry granules - to contact the plants above or below the soil line.

That about covers it.

I hope this helps. If you have more questions, don't hesitate to ask. If you have anything to add, we'd love to hear from you. Let us know in the comment section.

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I'm in zone 8a. Should I wait till spring to plant Asiatic Jasmine?

Asiatic jasmine in 2-1/2 inch and 3-1/2 inch pots

Q. I'm in zone 8a. Should I wait till spring to plant Asiatic Jasmine?

A. Good question. Here in zone 8b, I prefer to plant in fall because roots continue to develop in winter even when above-ground parts are often dormant.

Asiatic jasmine is plenty cold-hardy in your climate zone. You needn't wait until spring to plant. The temps don't drop enough long enough to be a problem. Furthermore, once planted and irrigated deeply, newly planted plants don't require as much irrigation during our cool seasons.

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FAQ: Water run-off is causing an erosion issue. Should I plant Mondo?

Q. I have a location that is a steep hill, that runs down towards a lake.  Water run-off is causing an erosion issue.  I am planning on purchasing 100 Ophiopogon japonicus 'Nana' - Dwarf Mondo Grass - Bare Root,  to start. I'm curious as to your opinion on this application of this grass.  Second, I want to know how quickly these would need to be planted once they arrive.

Dwarf Mondo bare root divisions

A. Dwarf mondo grass is a slow-growing ground cover, so it won't stabilize the soil on the hill all by itself. You could install an erosion control blanket/mat and plant through it. Still, that doesn't change the fact that dwarf mondo grows slowly.

If you decide to install a blanket/mat, to help stabilize the soil until your ground cover plant matures, it should be made of organic material (like straw). I recently saw some for sale at our local farm supply store.

Faster growing ground covers include Campsis radicans (aka Trumpet Vine, a very aggressive native plant that will climb anything in its path), Euonymus fortunei (aka Wintercreeper), Gelsemium sempervirens (aka Carolina Jessamine, another native ground cover that will climb if given the opportunity), Hypericum calycinum (aka St. John's Wort), Juniperus conferta 'Blue Pacific' and Junipers horizontalis 'Wiltonii', Liriope spicata (aka Creeping Lily Turf), Pachysandra terminalis (aka Japanese Spurge), Trachelospermum asiaticum (aka Asiatic Jasmine), Vinca major (aka Big-Leaf Periwinkle) and Vinca minor (aka Periwinkle).

Bare root plants should be planted ASAP. If you can't get to them all at once, set the plants upright in the shipping box, keep them moist, avoid exposure to sun, wind and freezing temperatures.

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FAQ: I have a heavily shaded lawn and have given up on trying to grow grass...What would you suggest?

Asiatic Jasmine lawn substitute

Q. We live approximately 60 miles southeast of Atlanta. I have a heavily shaded lawn and have given up on trying to grow grass. I have been advised to try Lenten Roses and ferns as an alternative. We have very hard clay soil but sloping, so have pretty good drainage. What would you suggest?

A. There are two ways you can deal with this. The first would be to develop a lawn substitute planted with shade loving species that tolerate some foot traffic. Appropriate plants could include Bugle Weed (Ajuga reptans), Sedge (Carex morrowii), Kenilworth Ivy (Cymbalaria aequitriloba), Kew Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei 'Kewensis'), Variegated Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea 'Variegata'), Moss (Hypnum imponens), Lily Turf (Liriope muscari), Creeping Lily Turf (Liriope spicata), Creeping Wire Vine (Muehlenbeckia axillaris) or Dwarf Creeping Wire Vine (Muehlenbeckia axillaris 'Nana'), Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon japonicus) or Dwarf Mondo (Ophiopogon japonicus 'Nana').

The second would be to develop a shade garden in which foot traffic is not allowed, or is restricted to paths and stepping stones. Appropriate plants could include Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior), ferns, Lily Of The Valley (Convallaria majalis), Lenten Rose (Helleborus spp.), English Ivy (Hedera helix 'Needlepoint', 'Anne Marie', 'Gold Child', 'Ingelise', 'Teardrop'), Hosta, Allegheny Spurge (Pachysandra procumbens), Japanese Spurge (Pachysandra terminalis), Spike Moss (Selaginella uncinata or other species), Asiatic Jasmine (Trachelospermum asiaticum), and Vincas (V. major or V. minor). Of course, any of the low-growing lawn substitute type plants could also be included.

I also suggest amending your hard clay soil. Spread a four inch layer of organic compost over the area, and work it into the top six inches of soil with a tiller. Next, spread a 4 inch layer of sand over the area, and till it into the first six inches of soil. This should help to make the site more hospitable.

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FAQ: Is there a vine to climb my wall without damaging the stucco?

Ficus pumila on a brick wall

Q. Can you please recommend me a small-leafed ivy that will grow in full shade in zone 10, and not be considered to have an invasive root system?  I would like something to climb the north facing wall of my South Florida house without doing penetrating damage to the stucco. I need it to climb by itself without a trellis.

A. That's a tough question. Vines climb by two means: clinging and twining. Twining vines wrap around something. You don't want a trellis, so there won't be anything to wrap around. Clinging vines produce growths that allow the plants to attach to the walls somehow.

Parthenocissus (Boston Ivy and Virginia Creeper) have little discs at the ends of modified roots that look like suction cups. They are very difficult to remove from a wall once attached (if you ever decide to remove the vine).

Hedera (English ivy and such) produces little roots that find cracks and crannies in the wall and worm their ways into them. This can cause damage, too.

Ficus pumila (Creeping fig) grows the same way, but I have seen it grow heavy and fall off of a wall during a storm without doing damage to stucco, so that might be a possibility for you.

My wife insisted on planting a Campsis (Trumpet creeper) against a wall. It also attaches by little roots, but I've been able to pull juvenile vines off without damaging the wall, but they were still juvenile. There may be some tropical vines about which I'm unfamiliar that would work.

Trachelospermum asiaticum (Asiatic jasmine) is usually grown as a ground cover, but I've had some escape and try to climb the brick north-face wall of my house. I've been able to pull the juvenile vines off with ease, but they don't really grow thickly enough to achieve the look you desire.

In short, try Ficus pumila. It's not perfect, but may be your best bet. You might have to get it started by erecting a short, temporary trellis.

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FAQ: What's wrong with my centipede lawn?

(I visited the site and took a soil sample to the local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing.)

Your lawn problems are related to shade, mowing height, soil pH, phosphorus and potassium levels, fertilizer, irrigation and soil erosion on the slope. In addition, tree roots are surfacing in the front yard. Sod will not grow over the visible roots.

Centipede grass does best in full sun. Most of your front lawn is shaded. There is nothing that can be done about the shade.

Your grass is cut too short. Centipede grass should normally be cut at a mowing height of 1-1/2" to 2", but due to the shade (lack of available light) the mowing height should be increased to 2-1/2". This provides more leaf surface and allows the sod to make the best use of available light.

Soil pH is too low (4.3). Raise it by applying dolomite (pelletized lime) at a rate of 55 pounds per 1000 square feet.

Phosphorus and potassium levels are too high. Centipede is very sensitive to high phosphorus levels. There is nothing that can be done to reduce the phosphorus and potassium levels. Time will take care of it. Do not use fertilizer containing phosphorus or potassium.

Apply 1-1/2 pounds of 34-0-0 or 1 pound of 46-0-0 fertilizer per 1000 square feet after spring green-up and again in mid-summer. Irrigate immediately after fertilizer application. Irrigate during dry weather to avoid stress.

There is nothing that can be done about the visible tree roots, though some soil could be added to repair eroded areas. If soil is added in the spring, sow annual rye grass to help prevent further erosion.

There are alternatives to maintaining a centipede lawn in difficult circumstances.

The first alternative would be to have the front lawn sodded with St. Augustine grass. St. Augustine is more shade tolerant. Sod roots should be in full contact with soil, so sod should not be put down over surfacing tree roots.

Another alternative would be to grow a more shade tolerant ground cover instead of sod. Trachelospermum asiaticum (Asiatic jasmine), Glechoma hederacea (Creeping Charlie), Ophiopogon japonicus (Mondo) and Herniaria glabra (Rupturewort) would be good choices. Alternative ground covers should be prevented from growing into neighbors' lawns.

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Donna's Garden

When the McKenna's moved from backcountry Maine to southeast Georgia, they thought they had reached civilization at last.  But Brooklet is one of the quietest towns I know.  It's the slow, gentle pace of life that gives one time to work in the garden, think and be creative.

Donna, the lady of the house, is known for her thrift and exuberance.  Her well-known book, The $30 a Week Grocery Budget, first published in 1991, is a favorite of prudent homemakers.  She admits that the budget might be increased to $50 a week, but probably won't.  That's thrift.  Donna's exuberance shows in her hospitality with the table nearly groaning under the weight of food.  How does she do it?

Her garden reflects her character.  Nearly every plant was obtained for free, or propagated.  She, in turn, generously gives plants away, especially Jerusalem artichokes (Helianthus tuberosus).

Her husband, John, is a plant enthusiast.  Having worked around nurseries, he has brought home all kinds of seeds, bulbs and cuttings.  John, native to New Jersey,has been a licensed tour guide in Savannah, Georgia.  I bet he's always peeking into gardens en route.

Most of her acquisitions are old-fashioned varieties, their names often unknown to her.   Attractive weeds like spiderwort (Tradescantia virginiana) and Viola species grow in wild profusion along with cannas, crocosmia, daylilies, iris, roses and yarrow (Achillea spp.).  English boxwoods (Buxus sempervirens 'Suffruticosa') line paths paved with recycled brick.  Snowrose (Serissa foetida) softens and fills bare corners.  Mock orange (Philadelphus lewisii) beckons the nose.

Flower bulbs including shamrock (Oxalis spp.), Amaryllis (Hippeastrum cvs.), narcissus, lilies and bluebells (Hyacinthoides) pop up everywhere.  Escaped house plants (Setacea and Saxifraga stolonifera) have made themselves at home outdoors.  Conifers such as cedars (Cedrus deodora) and Italian cypress (Cupressus sempervirens) punctuate the landscape.  Trumpet vine (Campsis radicans), chocolate vine (Akebia quinata), creeping fig (Ficus pumila), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), and Confederate jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) drape from porches, trellises and trees.  It's a joyful sight.

As we walked to the vegetable and herb garden, Donna had to show me what they had uncovered: spicebush (Lindera benzoin).  I explained how to make tea from it.

The raised bed vegetable garden is planted with garlic, arugula and rhubarb, along with more conventional plants.  Of course, herbs are grown not only in the herb garden, but in clay pots, decorative containers, and tucked into every imaginable crevice.  Mint seems to be Donna's ground cover of choice.

Whimsical sculptures, fountains and furnishings express Donna's effervescence.  A rain barrel is a sign of her care.

In another town, you might pass a garden like Donna's without noticing it.  Very old camellias screen some of it from the street.  But this is Brooklet, GA where everyone drives slowly.  So if you pass the McKenna house, you'll certainly be tempted to wonder what grows behind that evergreen wall.

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Asiatic Jasmine - Cover Ground With Southern Style

Asiatic Jasmine ( Trachelospermum asiaticum ), is a marvelous ground cover vine that is well-known throughout the South. Trachelospermum asiaticum means "rough seed from Asia", but it doesn't imply that the plant is without style. Evergreen, leathery leaves with a glossy sheen form a dense, luxurious blanket that adds a touch of class to the landscape.

The species is distantly related to plants such as Vinca, Mandevilla, Carissa, Oleander and Amsonia. Confederate Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is a closer relative, and very similar in appearance, but Asiatic Jasmine differs from T. jasminoides by having smaller leaves, being shy to bloom and reluctant to climb.

Asiatic Jasmine is native to Korea and Japan, but is so popular in the southeastern U.S. that you might think it's from around here. In fact, there is a species, commonly called Climbing Dogbane (Trachelospermum difforme), which is native to the U.S.

It must be noted that Asiatic and Confederate jasmines are not among what some consider to be "true jasmine" of the genus Jasminum.

Foliage is about 1" to 2" long. Insignificant star-shaped flowers are about 1" diameter, white to pale yellow. Variegated-leaf forms exist. Mature height as a ground cover is only 6", but vines may extend to 24" when prostrate. If Asiatic Jasmine does take the notion to climb, the vines my grow to 72" or more.

Asiatic Jasmine is cold-hardy in USDA climate zones 7 through 9. It is perfect for full, but will grow in partial- to full shade. Deep shade is not recommended. Plant in average, well-drained soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8. Plants are drought tolerant when established, and heat-loving.

It's very effective as a ground cover in small to large areas. If grown near a walkway, occasional edging will keep it very neat. Otherwise, maintenance needs are few. Deer won't eat it, and you shouldn't either. The milky sap will irritate sensitive tissue, so keep it out of your eyes and nose.

Prepare the planting bed for Trachelospermum asiaticum by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep. Compost may be incorporated into the soil. Fertilizer may be used. If you choose to do so, incorporate 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant container-grown jasmine at 18" to 24" spacing. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the roots. Do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed.

Smaller, bare root plants may be spaced 8" to 15" apart. Plant only as deeply as they were previously grown. A slight change in stem color and texture should be visible, indicating the planting depth. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" deep.

Asiatic Jasmine is one of my favorite ground cover vines. Rich foliage color, glossy sheen and low-maintenance needs make it very popular with many other southern gardeners, as well.

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