Can I dump used coffee grounds in my garden?

Instead of dumping used coffee grounds in the trash or washing into the garbage disposal, you can add them to your compost pile. They've been pulverized into tiny bits, so they will decompose rapidly.

You can also sprinkle coffee grounds around acid-loving plants such as azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons, gardenias and blueberries. A quarter-inch application every month or so will help to keep the soil a little on the acidic side.

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BREAKING NEWS: European Commission to criminalize nearly all seeds and plants not registered with government.

This is shocking news. According to Mike Adams, the Health Ranger, Editor of NaturalNews.com, a new law proposed by the European Commission would require the registration all seeds and plants. Possession and use of all those not registered would be illegal. "Home gardeners who grow their own plants from non-regulated seeds would be considered criminals under this law."  Learn more: http://www.naturalnews.com/040214_seeds_European_Commission_registration.html#ixzz2ScHQFEZE

Must-Have Plants: Achillea 'Desert Eve' (TM) Red

Must-have plants are among the best plants for appropriate garden situations. When you need great garden plants for ground cover, naturalizing, wildflower gardens, perennial borders, butterfly gardens, hummingbird gardens, herb gardens, heritage gardens, cutting gardens, woodland gardens, shade gardens, bulb gardens, container gardens, bog gardens, water gardens, rain gardens or xeriscaping, look for the best among our must-have plants.

Name(s): Achillea 'Desert Eve' (TM) Red, Yarrow, Milfoil, Staunchweed, Sanguinary, Thousandleaf, Soldier's Woundwort

Flower Color: Red

Bloom Time: June to September

Foliage: Herbaceous, gray-green, fragrant.

Height/Spread: 12 inches to 18 inches x 12 inches to 18 inches.

Climate Zones: 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9

Sun Exposure: Full sun, partial shade.

Soil Condition: Well-drained to dry, average to poor, pH 5.6 to 7.5

Features: Drought tolerant, deer resistant, fragrant.

Uses: Xeriscaping, massed planting, naturalizing, cutting gardens, butterfly gardens, herb gardens, perennial borders.

Return to Achillea at goGardenNow.com.

Why and how you should add Epsom salt to your garden.

"Why and how should I add Epsom salt to my garden?" is a question I'm frequently asked.

Epsom salt is magnesium sulfate. Magnesium is important for producing chlorophyll and fruit. It also strengthens cell walls and improves plants' absorption of vital nutrients such as sulfur, nitrogen and phosphorus.

Sulfur is vital to plant growth. It helps plants produce enzymes, vitamins and amino acids.

Magnesium deficiency may be difficult to detect without taking a soil sample. Some plants such as roses, tomatoes and peppers exhibit deficiencies more readily than others. Common symptoms include yellowed or misshapen leaves and stunting.

Magnesium is often deficient in soils with alkaline pH, high potassium and calcium content. Take a soil sample to your regional Cooperative Extension Service for testing. It's the best way to determine whether your soil needs magnesium. If the test shows severe magnesium deficiency, the service may recommend addition of dolomite lime to the soil. But don't rely on dolomite lime alone to correct the problem. Add Epsom salt, too. If the soil test shows adequate magnesium along with high potassium and calcium content, you should still add Epsom salt to your garden.

Epsom salt has the advantage over other sources of magnesium because it is highly soluble. The salt granules can be sprinkled around plants. Diluted with water, the Epsom salt solution can be poured around plants or sprayed on their leaves. The foliar spray delivers maximum rapid results.

How much Epsom salt you should apply depends on the size of the plant and the method of application. Vegetables such as tomatoes and peppers benefit from 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt granules at planting time. Sprinkle the granules around the transplants. Larger plants such as roses and shrubs will benefit from 1/2 cup of granules applied in spring and again in fall. Depending on plant size, apply 1/2 cup to 1 cup of granules around grape vines, fruit and nut trees at the drip line because that's where the feeder roots are. The drip line is the outer circumference of the leaf canopy.

For foliar spray, add 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt per gallon of water. Apply generously two or three times during the growing season.

Gardeners often report better plant color, stronger growth, improved fruit set, better tasting fruits and vegetables. Epsom salt applied to tomatoes may help to prevent blossom-end rot.

Epsom salt can be purchased at grocery and drug stores.

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I'm thinking about using a new lawn service company in town. Do you have any advice?

I'm thinking about using a new lawn service company in town. Do you have any advice?

Yes, I do. Here are some thoughts in no particular order.

• Have you been quoted the lowest price in town? Maybe the owner doesn't know how to price the services. Give the company a chance. Try it out on a month-to-month basis. Don't sign a long-term contract. If you're not satisfied, discuss it with the owner. Don't expect blue-ribbon service if you're only paying for "mow, blow and go." You should get service commensurate for what you pay. If you get big promises and unsatisfactory service at any price, forget about it. That business won't be around for long.

• Is the company advertised as "licensed and insured"? It could mean he only has a driver's license and required liability insurance on the truck. Ask questions. Request documents.

• Does the company offer pesticide control? It should be licensed by your state. Check to make sure. Ask for documents.

• Are the company employees trustworthy? Illegality is a big issue, but time will tell. The burden of proof shouldn't be on your shoulders.
   
• Is the lawn service company owned by an established garden center or franchise? Establishment is a good thing, but is no guarantee.  Ask friends and acquaintances if they've had experiences with the service. Check reviews online, but be suspicious. Competitors sometimes post bad reviews.
   
• Does the company advertise "organic" and/or "sustainable" lawn care practices? Double-check that. Those words are way overused. Does the company mow your grass with scythes? Ask for details.

• Do you know who to call for a quick response? Make friends with the business owner. If you can't call someone any time day or night (like when your irrigation system has been cut and looks like a geyser in the middle of the night) and get a response pretty soon, you should find another lawn service company.

• Once you've made a wise choice, be fair. Don't short-change the lawn service company.

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Behind A Garden Wall: Ravine Gardens State Park, Palatka, Florida

Court Of States, Ravine Gardens, Courtesy of Boston Public Library

A trip to Florida excites me as much now as when I was a child, so I was delighted when my son suggested we head south to visit a couple of Florida's state parks. They included Ravine Gardens State Park in Palatka and Mike Roess Gold Head Branch State Park near Keystone Heights, both known for their botanical wonders.

Florida advertises its state parks as "the Real Florida." Whether more real than the rest, I won't argue. But Florida's state parks certainly possess an authenticity hard to find elsewhere in the state. For example, fresh water fountains at a constant 72 degrees F temperature actually spring naturally from the ground, not only from recirculating pumps. And beasts are not cartoon characters. So, along with nostalgic scenes, the Florida State Parks are mighty appealing.

The ravine at Palatka, shaped something like a boomerang, is theorized to have been formed over millenia by artesian springs emerging under sandy ridges near the western bank of the St. John's River.  It was an ideal spot. Aboriginal Timucuans inhabited the area for Lord only knows how long, hunting, farming and fishing for sustenance in innocent, edenic tranquility. Then the Spanish arrived. It's said they were looking for land, riches, a fountain of youth, ways to outflank the French and English, and converts to Catholicism. Anyway, by the mid-eighteenth century, the Timucuans were extinct. Disappointed Spanish retreated.

After the Timucuans and Spanish, enterprising Creeks (Seminoles) and English arrived. Entrepreneurs, idealists, hopefuls, destitutes, rascals and slaves contributed to the building of Palatka, Florida, founded in 1821. Some of the big names, like Denys Rolle's, are retained in maps and nearby landmarks with Denys Rolle's name. Actually, the ravine used to belong to Denys Rolle, Esqr. (Look for the boomerang on the map.) Palatka's colorful history is well worth reading about.

The growing town needed lots of water, so the Palatka Water Works plant was built in 1886 at the lower end of the ravine. Until 1986, the water works supplied up to a million gallons of pure water per day to the city.

The country's response to national economic hardship (The Great Depression) in the 1930s brought about the Works Progress Administration. The WPA enlisted millions of unemployed Americans to perform public projects. Ravine Gardens was one result. The 59-acre garden was planted with over 95,000 azaleas, 11,000 palms, and over 250,000 other ornamentals. It was described in the 1934 Florida Municipal Record as the "Nations Outstanding C.W.A. project." The gardens were maintained by the city until given over to the state in 1970.

Old postcards advertised Ravine Gardens as picture-perfect. Perhaps it was. Picturesque stone-walled terraces invited rest. Winding paths suggested gentle strolls. The splash of an ornamental waterwheel reminded visitors of a time not so long ago. Flowers were always in bloom.

Today's approach to Ravine Gardens State Park leads through a residential/small business neighborhood and past a school, none of which look too promising. In fact, I thought we were lost, but my son's trusty GPS app assured us we were on the correct street.

Cat's-Claws (Macfadyena unguis-cati)

The entrance to Ravine Gardens State Park is constructed of fossil-rich native stone. In fact, native stone is used in most of the original structures. Stone-columned pergolas are still draped with flowers. There are coral honeysuckles (Lonicera sempervirens), cat's-claws (Macfadyena unguis-cati) and crossvines (Bignonia capreolata) flanking the Court of the States. Front and center, a large obelisk honoring President Franklin D. Roosevelt is still there.

The park consists of a formal garden, an office/visitor center complex, a playground and fitness area, several trails around and into the ravine, a picnic pavilion, an amphitheater, several walking trails and a 1.8 mile perimeter road.

To get an overview, we began the driving tour around the perimeter of the park, but stopped along the way to inspect interesting things. As it turns out, that's the best way to see the park. Come to an overlook or trail crossing, park the car, get out and walk, return, drive to another and repeat.

Springs Trail, Ravine Gardens

From the first overlook, we meandered the circuitous Springs Trail (0.6 miles). Towering palms, hardwoods and bamboo darkened the fern-lined walk. I felt like an explorer in a jungle. Bird songs and the gurgling sound of springs were enchanting. By and by we came to a delightful glade divided by a stream. What I mistook to be naturally bubbling fountains turned out to be two recirculating water pumps strategically sited to enhance the scene.

Since it is an intentional garden planted in a natural ravine, you'll find native and introduced species growing together. Begonia, Angelica and ginger lily (Hedychium) thrive near water dragon (Saururus cernuus) and royal fern (Osmunda regalis). Sword ferns (Nephrolepis cordifolia), netted chainferns (Woodwardia areolata), cinnamon ferns (Osmunda cinnamomea)  and southern woodferns (Dryopteris ludoviciana) flourish in the damp seeps. Elephant ears (Colocasia spp.) wave above rippling streams. Citrus trees with their edible ornaments dangle over shrubby palms and shrimp plants (Justicia brandegeeana). The ravine protects many tender plants from damaging cold, though some of the banana trees looked like they had been nipped by frost.

Forest canopy, Ravine Gardens

The park drive and overlooks provide many alluring views into the ravine. From above, the towering canopy reminded me of scenes from those old Tarzan movies starring Johnny Weismuller. All seemed right in my world. (What happened to my Johnny Weismuller autograph, anyway?)

For another delightful elevated view, we descended into the ravine to cross a suspension bridge surrounded by cypresses and their knees (Taxodium spp.). It won't matter how old I grow, I'll never lose the fascination with swinging bridges. I've crossed many and I can recall nearly all of them. Strangely, the most inebriating are best remembered.

We passed up walking the Azalea Trail (0.8 miles). Azalea season was over, though some straggling flowers splashed the forest with fading "red family" hues. Unfortunately, most of the azalea shrubs seem straggly, in need of pruning and brush removal.

Garden designers included an amphitheater. Who builds amphitheaters any more? As it turns out, Mike Roess Gold Head Branch State Park, built by the WPA, also has an amphitheatre. Perhaps those are remnants of a time when entertainment was more community oriented, long before the age of solitary play with i-things.

After returning to the parking lot, we strolled through the formal garden, stumbling upon a wedding almost in progress. The bride was beautiful, as all brides are. Typically, the bridesmaids barely or over-filled their ultramarine dresses, but guests and consorts encouraged each and every one with many compliments.

Detouring around the party, we returned to a cypress-shaded reflecting pool we had driven past earlier. Several couples lazed about on the dappled lawn. Even without the waterwheel, the scene was recognizable and pleasant, but not as bucolic.

Fairies at Ravine Gardens State Park

Gardens such as these are very popular spots for photography, therefore the management posts signs warning against anything beyond snap-shooting without a permit. Probably with permission, a bridal couple was captured for posterity in one setting. A pair of sprites, on cue, paused to adore their "faire" reflections from a bridge.

I already mentioned the Palatka Water Works. Since it is close-by, it seemed worth seeing, and was. I'm ever amazed at how past architects and designers ornamented the most utilitarian structures and tools. Though not extravagant, even the Palatka Water Works brickwork and roofing have their charm. The Coffin Valve Company's monogram lends dignity to a common fire hydrant. (Incidentally, some are still in use in Palatka.) The disused tanks and sediment basins with cattails even have a sentimental quality. Home, sweet frog home. What had fallen into ruin is now a small museum and community education center. A wildflower garden suggests how nearby residents can transform their landscapes.

Wildflower Garden

A historical marker near the Garden Club Of Palatka's club house reminds visitors that William Bartram (1739-1823), naturalist and botanist, once explored this area. His route is known as the William Bartram Trail. The garden didn't exist at the time, but the ravine did. Perhaps he delved into it.

Though I grew up in a family including herbalists, horticulturists, florists and gardeners, I like to think that those childhood trips to Florida also contributed to my interest in flora. Even ubiquitous species like coontie (Zamia spp.), ferns, bromeliads and cast iron plants (Aspidistra elatior) still fascinate me. God willing, I'll take many more trips to Florida to search for interesting gardens, plants, and paradise.

Ravine Gardens, Courtesy of Boston Public Library

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Trees Can Be Weeds.

I want a nice lawn, but it's hard to grow grass in my back yard. The landscape service manager says there is too much shade and I should let him cut down some trees. He says some aren't worth keeping, but I love my trees. What do you think?

Apparently, if you want a turf grass lawn, you're going to have to remove some trees. Your case reminds me of a friend who retired from his law practice in Paris, France to rural southeast Georgia. He thought Paris had too few trees. His new home landscape was full of trees, mostly longleaf pines (Pinus palustris), water oaks (Quercus nigra) and black cherries (Prunus serotina). Many of the oaks and cherries were diseased and malformed. I tried in vain to convince him that some of those oaks and cherries were weeds regardless of size and age, and they needed to go. "They're magnificent," he exclaimed.

I'd like to convince you, too. According to Merriam-Webster.com, a weed is "a plant that is not valued where it is growing and is usually of vigorous growth; especially: one that tends to overgrow or choke out more desirable plants." Size and age doesn't matter. Perhaps you should consider removing your big weed trees. If in doubt, get a couple of opinions from experts who can personally examine your situation.

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FAQ: Is it okay to add paper to my composter? I was told that paper could be poisonous.

Yes, it is okay to add paper. Some inks used to contain heavy metals, but that is very seldom the case nowadays.

When composting paper, there are a few other things you should consider.

The composting process requires air circulation. Flat sheets do not allow enough air to circulate between them, therefore the paper should be shredded.

Do not use paper that is mixed with anything not compostable. For example, my paper shredder has a slot where I can run old credit cards through it. Those bits of plastic added to the composter and finally to my garden would eventually fill the planting bed with sharp little objects to pierce my flesh.

Even shredded paper, if added in large quantities, may be difficult to compost. Be sure to mix the paper with other organic materials.

Don't forget to stir the compost occasionally.

My other articles about composting include other important tips.

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How To Make Bird Watching Easy For The Elderly

We're visiting my 90-year old mother-in-law. She loves watching daily game shows and wild birds from her comfy chair. Watching her watching them, I'm thinking what I might suggest or do to make her life and those of her care-givers easier and pleasanter.

I'd begin by turning off the game shows, but that would only benefit me. The benefits should be mutual. Besides, I'm just visiting.

I turn my attention to our bird-watcher and the wild birds.

Mom is basically confined to the upper floor of her split-level home. Two bird feeders are suspended by wires from gutters so they are visible through her living room window. One is a long tube feeder. The suet feeder is a simple single-cake cage.

Some bird-watchers delight in all God's creatures. Others prefer some over others. Mom loves most, but discriminates against grackles, cowbirds and starlings. Today we've been visited by many species, including grackles, cowbirds and starlings. When the undesirables appear, Mom strikes the window glass with the end of her cane to scare them off. Of course, all the birds fly away for a few moments. Then they all come back. At this moment, the pests are ganging up on the feeders while titmice and cardinals, crestfallen, wait on nearby branches.

I'm considering whether anything should be done about this. The disadvantages of the voracious bullies are that they aggravate her, eat too much bird food, and intimidate the smaller birds. The advantage is they keep Mom exercising by swinging her cane, though she notes she is weakening and can't "raise cane" like she used to.

We bought the tube feeder for her several years ago because it has a greater capacity. Since my brother-in-law is usually the one who maintains it, we figured he wouldn't have to refill it so often. She complains he doesn't refill it often enough.  It was empty this morning.  I filled it not two hours ago.  About one-third has been eaten already. At this rate I'll have to fill it again before nightfall.

Birds enjoy water as much as food, and it's fun to watch them drink and bathe. A hanging bird bath would be the ticket.

The feeders are reached by climbing a 6' step-ladder. That inconvenience alone is a discouragement from frequent refilling.

Here are a few ideas to make bird-watching more accessible and pleasant for the elderly, and to make life easier for their care-givers.

Provide high capacity bird feeders so they don't have to be refilled so often. The greater the capacity the better. Though larger feeders cost more, the benefits far outweigh their expense.

If your elderly friend or relative has limited mobility, place feeders within easy view of their bed or favorite chair. Some open-tray feeders and suet cages can be mounted directly on window glass with suction cups. Others can be mounted on brackets at window sill level.

Whether they will be refilled by themselves or their caregivers, feeders should be positioned for easy refilling. Feeders near ground level don't present many problems, but elevated ones do. Hanging feeders and those mounted on or under windows might be placed within easy reach of  open windows. If that's not possible or wise, perhaps a system of cords and pulleys can make  hanging feeders easier to manipulate from the ground.

Bird baths provide more pleasure for the birds as well as for bird-watchers. Pedestal-mounted baths are well-known and popular. Deck-mounted baths are specially suited for condominium and apartment residents. Hanging bird baths are perfect for placing near windows for easy viewing.

For a special treat, consider purchasing a window-mounted bird house. These have open backs and are usually attached to the glass with suction cups. They're great for watching nesting birds right up close.

If you discriminate against some species, there are lots of deterrents on the market. Common pests include squirrels and aggressive birds like those I mentioned before.

"Squirrel-Buster" tube feeders are very effective, as are those with "baffles" such as the Birds Choice NP431 Pole Mounted Tube Feeder.

Hot Pepper Suet Cakes and Logs repel squirrels. Birds apparently don't notice or mind the heat.

Cages and roofs mounted on open-tray feeders exclude squirrels and larger birds. Window-mounted open-tray feeders are often available complete with cages and roofs.

Next time you visit a senior friend or relative, give a thought to how you could make bird-watching more accessible and pleasant. They, the birds and you will benefit.

How To Clean A Plastic Tube Bird Feeder

Squirrel Buster Tube Feeder

I have a plastic tube bird feeder that needs to be cleaned. Got any tips?

Besides looking dirty, tube feeders can develop bacteria and mold that will infect the seed. That can't be good for the birds.

Wear latex gloves to protect your hands from germs and cleaning liquid. Disassemble your feeder following the manufacturer's instructions. Shake out any loose seed.

Fill a 5 gallon bucket with 10 quarts of water and 1 quart of bleach. Submerge the feeder and scrub it inside and out with a stiff bottle brush. A small toothbrush can be used to scrub tight areas.

Every part of the feeder should be cleaned and disinfected. Rinse each part thoroughly after cleaning, then dry them separately with a clean, soft cloth. Set them aside to completely air dry before reassembling.

That should do it. Your feeder will last longer, look better, and your birds will be healthier.

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Must-Have Plants: Astilbe 'Fanal'

Must-have plants are among the best plants for appropriate garden situations. When you need great garden plants for ground cover, naturalizing, wildflower gardens, perennial borders, butterfly gardens, hummingbird gardens, herb gardens, heritage gardens, cutting gardens, woodland gardens, shade gardens, bulb gardens, container gardens, bog gardens, water gardens, rain gardens or xeriscaping, look for the best among our must-have plants.




Name(s): Astilbe x arendsii 'Fanal', False Spirea, False Goat's Beard

Flower Color: Dark red

Bloom Time: Mid-summer

Foliage: Herbaceous, green, fern-like

Height/Spread: 12 inches to 18 inches x 12 inches to 18 inches.

Climate Zones: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8

Sun Exposure: Full sun to partial shade.

Soil Condition: Moist to well-drained, loamy, pH 5.6 to 7.5

Features: Lacy flowers, fern-like foliage.

Uses: Massed planting, naturalizing, perennial borders, woodland gardens, shade gardens.

Return to Astilbe at goGardenNow.com.

FAQ: If planted in full shade will Variegated Liriope revert to all green?

If planted in full shade, will Variegated Liriope revert to all green?

Planting in full shade won't cause Liriope muscari 'Variegata' to revert to green. It can revert to green, but it doesn't happen often. Variegation can be caused by several factors. It can be caused by virus. It can be communicated mechanically. Viral variegation tends to develop in irregular patterns, and it often affects the growth habit of the plant.

Genetic variegation occurs when cells produce little or no green pigment. This can be hereditary or occur as random mutations. Sections of plants that have randomly mutated are called "sports." The accompanying photo shows a section of Trachelospermum jasminoides that is "sporting." "Sports" can be propagated vegetatively. Random mutation appears in new growth, and tends to be regular and consistent in appearance. "Sporting" will not proceed into old tissue and change the appearance of the parent plant. Random genetic variegation can reverse itself in subsequent new tissue. The non-pigmented cells may or may not be sensitive to sun exposure.

Variegation can appear when air pockets develop under the outer layers of leaf tissue. This is actually a form of genetic variegation.

Liriope muscari 'Variegata' is a result of random genetic mutation. Since the genetic factor that caused variegation in the first place can reverse itself, new shoots from a variegated liriope parent can come out green, but that's not a sun/shade exposure issue.



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Stoke's Aster - A Sensible Plant Named For A Lunartick

Stokesia laevis (Stoke's Aster)

Stokesia laevis, also known as Carthamus laevis, Stoke's Aster and Cornflower Aster, is an heirloom plant you may remember seeing in your grandmother's garden. Many hard-working women of yesteryear had no time for fussy flowers. Today's overwhelmed gardeners aren't much different. Perhaps that's why Stoke's Aster was and is so popular. It's a beautiful, sensible, low maintenance plant.

According to the USDA PLANTS database, Stoke's Aster is native to the southeastern United States, generally found growing in the coastal plain. Native plants are perfectly suited to their environments. That's why they're native. Ubiquitous native plants are ignored. Undesirable native plants are called "weeds." Attractive native plants are called "ornamentals", collected and transplanted to gardens. Perhaps that explains why Stoke's Aster ended up in my grandmothers' flower beds.

Stokesia (pronounced "sto-KEES-ee-ah") was named for Dr. Jonathan Stokes (c. 1755 - 1831). Stokes was an English physician and botanist. Historically, physicians tended to be botanists because doctors relied on plants for their medicinal qualities. They usually corresponded with others about their findings, and often published them. This was the case with Dr. Stokes.

As a member of the original Lunar Society, Stokes often met and corresponded with fellows to discuss science, philosophy and whatever else mattered. Apparently, the Lunar Society was so-named because the members met at night under the full moon. The moonlight made nocturnal travels easier. Eventually, the members were known as "lunarticks", an appellation they merrily embraced. Their convivial society was beneficial personally and professionally.

Jonathan Stokes published books on botany including A Botanical Materia Medica: Consisting of the Generic and Specific Characters of the Plants Used in Medicine and Diet, with Synonyms, and References to Medical Authors (1812) and Botanical Commentaries (1830). Botanical Commentaries would be most interesting to the layman.

Stokesia flowers appear from spring to fall. They're about 3 inches in diameter and usually purple, though colors may range to pinkish and nearly white. They are borne on strong stems. They're long-lasting, too.

Foliage is herbaceous. The plant rosette may remain green during winter months in warmer climates. Leaf surfaces are smooth. Plants grow to 12 inches height and spread from 12 to 15 inches.

Stoke's Aster is hardy in USDA climate zones 5 through 10. They thrive in full sun to partial shade, but flowering is most profuse in full sun. Plant in well-drained, loamy to sandy loam soil with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.5. Take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Office for analysis. If stokesias fail, the problem can usually be traced to poor drainage or too little sun exposure.

Stokesia laevis is best known for colorful, long-lasting flowers. In addition, the flowers attract butterflies. Plants are deer-resistant, drought-tolerant and somewhat salt-tolerant.

Stoke's Aster, a perennial plant, is well-suited to garden borders, butterfly gardens, cut flower gardens and xeriscaping.

Return to Stokesia at goGardenNow.com.

Two new AAS Bedding Plant Award Winners for 2013

All-America Selections just announced two new AAS Bedding Plant Award Winners for 2013. Both are zinnias.

Zinnia 'Profusion Double Deep Salmon'

About Zinnia ‘Profusion Double Deep Salmon’, AAS says "an abundance of salmon colored double flowers cover attractive, compact plants from late spring through fall. In trials the dramatic double blooms offered a unique salmon color that held the color better and later into the season than the comparisons. The bright foliage covers spent blossoms giving a much fresher appearance without the need to deadhead. Mature plants are 8-14 inches tall and are perfect as a low or medium height divider. This outstanding garden performer offers disease resistance to both Alternaria and powdery mildew."

Zinnia 'Profusion Double Hot Cherry'

AAS says, "‘Double Hot Cherry’ offers an abundance of vivid deep-rose double flowers. This continuous bloomer covers well-mounded plants from late spring through fall. In trials the dramatic large double blooms held the color significantly better than comparisons and later into the season. The plant covers spent blossoms giving a much fresher appearance without deadheading. Mature plants 8-14 inches tall are perfect as a low or medium height divider. This excellent garden performer also offers disease resistance to Alternaria and powdery mildew."

Both winners were bred by Sakata Seed Corporation.

AAS winners are grown beside two or three similar varieties already on the market. The AAS Judges grow them, then do a side-by-side analysis of growth habit, disease resistance and more to determine if the new ones are truly better than those currently available to home gardeners. Only superior plants are granted the honor of an AAS Award.

Be sure to give Zinnia 'Profusion Double Deep Salmon' and Zinnia 'Profusion Double Hot Cherry' places in your garden. Seed and bedding plants should be available at your local garden center.

Images are courtesy of All-America Selections.

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Behind A Garden Wall: Armstrong Atlantic State University Arboretum

In her characteristic languorous drawl, a friend from Savannah suggested, "Armstrong Atlantic State University has a marvelous arboretum. You simply must visit." So I did.

I don't think I've visited the campus more than twice during the last forty-some years since I matriculated there. When I arrived at Armstrong Atlantic State University, I was a bit confused. Some drives had been closed, others had been re-directed, I couldn't find a legal place to park, and I couldn't find the arboretum. I found the University Police Office to ask.

Providing me with a map, the officer pointed to visitor parking areas and the "location of the arboretum." Unfortunately, the map didn't clearly show a route re-direction, so I drove about confused. I finally hailed a university pickup truck to ask the driver where I might find the arboretum. The man with the graying ponytail said, "You're in it. The entire campus is the arboretum."

Have you ever noticed that unless you intend to visit for 15 minutes or less, visitor parking at universities tend to be in inconvenient locations? Of course, administrators' parking spaces are very near their office doors, faculty and staff might be in the vicinity of their classrooms; student parking is way beyond that. I found a parking space on the outskirts and set out on foot to enjoy the arboretum.

There is no particular place to begin a visit to the Armstrong Arboretum. No matter where you park you're in the arboretum. Walk to whatever catches your eye, but "Please Stay On Sidewalks."

I began humming, "sign, sign, everywhere a sign..." When I was in college, students were warned repeatedly to stay off the grass. But faculty didn't stay off grass, so there wasn't a convincing reason to comply.

Though sidewalks existed, most of us took short-cuts across lawns to our classrooms creating dirt trails (sometimes blocked by signs, ropes or chains), over which laborers would eventually pour more concrete walks where they should have been in the first place. Armstrong Arboretum's landscape designer has creatively solved the problem in the Quad by establishing expansive beds planted with large shrubs and cleverly obstructed by chains.

As in most arboreta, species are identified with permanent signs. But, unless one ignores the signs to stay on the sidewalk, some plant labels can't be read. I didn't stay on the sidewalks. I was prepared to answer any challenge saying, "That doesn't apply to me now. I'm an alumnus, and a professional."

Developed areas of the Armstrong Atlantic State University Aboretum make good use of native species including live oak (Quercus virginiana), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora) and yaupon holly (Ilex vomitoria), as well as introduced species from around the world. There is, however, the International Garden which only majors on plants from Asia and Australasia. Species include Kerosene Bush (Ozothamnus ledifolius), Lomatia myricoides, Bauhinia yunnanensis, Akebia trifoliata, Camellia sinensis and Pawlonia tomentosa.

The Conifer Garden is worth a visit. Surrounded by native pines, there are interesting varieties of Chamaecyparis obtusa and C. pisifera, Thuja, Juniperus, Pinus and Cryptomeria. Juniperus conferta 'All Gold' and Cryptomeria japonica 'Black Dragon' are two of my favorites.

Clerodendrum x speciosum

It seems that every available wall is draped with flowering vines. Remarkable specimens include Blue Glory (Thunbergia battiscombia), Brazilian Golden Vine (Mascagnia macroptera), Bauhinia, Glory Vine (Clerodendrum x speciosum), Coral Vine (Antigonon leptopus) and Orchid Vine (Mascagnia lilacina).

The Camellia Garden was just beginning to bloom when I visited, but it should be spectacular now in January. Camellia sasanqua brightens the landscape late September through November. Camellia japonica steals the show in December through February.

The Fern Collection includes some fine examples. The display should excite any shade gardener or collector of hardy ferns with selections such as Sechuan Ribbon Fern (Lepisorus bicolor), Dixie Wood Fern (Dryopteris x australis), Maiden Fern (Thelypteris kunthii), Hart's Tongue Fern (Pyrrosia lingua), Tassel Fern (Polystichum polyblepharum), Macho Fern (Nephrolepis biserrata) and Oriental Chain Fern (Woodwardia orientalis). Peacock Spikemoss (Selaginella uncinata) made a fine ground cover in the Fern Garden.

One small section was particularly fascinating. I don't remember what it was called. It looked arid and desolate like a Salvador Dali landscape, warmed by Anise Marigold (Tagetes lucida), with starkly shaped plants. Representatives included Monkey Puzzle Tree (Araucaria araucana), Cryptomeria japonica 'Araucaroides', Coontie (Zamia pumila), Cloverleaf Fern (Marsilea macropoda) and Chinese Nutmeg Tree (Torreya grandis). Gardeners with unusual plant preferences would be inspired.

Hedychium 'Elizabeth'

The Ginger Garden moved my senses from the stark to the lush. Protected by shade and sheltering walls, wonderful gingers thrive. Among them are Hidden Ginger (Curcuma 'Scarlet Fever'), Mauve Dancing Girl (Globba winitii), Yellow Dancing Girl (Globba schomburgkii), Hardy Ginger Lily (Hedychium 'Elizabeth'), Peacock Ginger (Cornukaempferia aurantifolia 'Jungle Gold') and Red Tower Ginger (Costus barbatus).

Every hour or so during my visit, students would swarm out of some buildings and into others. Then I would be alone again to stroll and snap pictures.

With so many lovely distractions, there's every reason to pause and enjoy the campus of Armstrong Atlantic State University Arboretum, unless one's in a big hurry to class.

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Thoughts on planting container gardens for winter

I want to plant an outdoor container garden this month. Are there things I need to know to be successful?

Choose the proper plants, then protect them from wind and extreme cold.

Obviously, you should choose plants that are cold hardy in your area. You can determine your climate zone by consulting the USDA Climate Zone map. It is very specific, even delineating some climate fluctuations within your county of residence. Various publications and online web sites provide hardiness information for specific plants. This blog provides plenty.

Wind can dislodge plants from containers, especially if the roots of new plants have not yet taken hold in the soil. If possible, position your containers out of the wind. Staking is recommended for tall, high-profile plants.

Select large, stable planting containers with thick walls. Fifteen gallon and larger containers with wide bottoms are best. Greater soil volume provides more insulation for tender roots. Wide bottoms help prevent tipping due to wind or snow loads. Thick walls provide more insulation.

Avoid hanging baskets.

Well-drained, evenly moist soil provides more protection than dry soil because water is insulating, even if turned to ice. Freezing water actually gives off heat.

If you plant more than one container, group them together. The collective mass is more protective than single containers scattered about.

Extreme cold weather may force you to insulate your containers with organic material such as straw to protect the roots. Bales can be conveniently placed around the containers for insulation, then removed when the weather moderates. Even old blankets can be used for insulation.

If extreme cold threatens plant tops, consider draping them with lightweight frost protection fabric. If you can't obtain it, drape your plants with old sheets. Never cover plants with plastic sheets.

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Results of Community Poll Ending Jan. 1, 2013 About Pesticide Preference

Our Community Poll asked the question, "What kinds of pesticides do you use?"

• 50% of respondents use only organic pesticides.
• 50% of respondents use "organic pesticides and chemical pesticides. Whatever works."
•  Zero percent use synthetic pesticides only.

Obviously, gardeners prefer organic pesticides, but 50% of them will resort to stern measures to protect their crops.

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Must Have Plants: Goldenstar (aka Green and Gold)

Chrysogonum virginianum - Goldenstar

Must-have plants are among the best plants for appropriate garden situations. When you need great garden plants for ground cover, naturalizing, wildflower gardens, perennial borders, butterfly gardens, hummingbird gardens, herb gardens, heritage gardens, cutting gardens, woodland gardens, shade gardens, bulb gardens, container gardens, bog gardens, water gardens, rain gardens or xeriscaping, look for the best among our must-have plants.

Name(s): Chrysogonum virginianum, Chrysogonum virginianum var. virginianum, Chrysogonum australe, Chrysogonum virginianum var. australe, Goldenstar, Green and Gold

Flower Color: Yellow

Bloom Time: Spring through summer.

Foliage: Herbaceous, medium green.

Height/Spread: 4 inches to 6 inches x 4 inches to 6 inches.

Climate Zones: 5, 6, 7, 8, 9

Sun Exposure: Full sun to partial shade.

Soil Condition: Well-drained, loamy, pH 6.1 to 7.8

Features: Colorful flowers, deer resistant, no known pests and diseases, tolerates little foot traffic.

Uses: Massed planting, ground cover, shade gardens, woodland gardens, native plant collections, perennial gardens, perennial borders.

Southern Shield Fern - Graceful and Adaptable

Thelypteris kunthii - Southern Shield Fern

Southern Shield Fern is one of the most graceful ferns in the woods. Its deciduous, soft-looking fronds make it one of the most appealing of our native ferns, and its very adaptable to the southern garden.

The botanical name is Thelypteris kunthii (pronounced the-LIP-ter-iss KUN-thee-eye). Thelypteris means "female fern." The species was named to honor the life and work of Karl Sigismund Kunth (1788-1950), a noted German botanist. Kunth classified plants that had been collected by Alexander von Humboldt and Aimé Bonpland when they traveled through America.

According to the USDA PLANTS database, its range is from North Carolina southward to Florida and westward to Texas. It is also present in Hawaii, Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands, perhaps because it arrived and found the islands to its liking. It's usually found growing near the coast or streams.

Southern Shield Fern is also known as Dryopteris normalis, Dryopteris saxatilis, Thelypteris macrorhizoma, Thelypteris normalis, Thelypteris unca, Southern Shield Fern, Southern Wood Fern, Southern Maiden Fern, River Fern and Widespread Maiden Fern.

You don't need to live near the coast to grow Southern Shield Fern successfully. It tolerates short-term dry spells, and performs well in USDA climate zones 7 to 10.

Choose a planting site in partial shade with moist soil, high in organic matter and well-drained with pH between 6.1 to 7.8. Take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Follow the recommendations. Tilling won't be necessary.

Southern Shield Fern grows to 36 inches high and 36 inches across. Dig planting holes about 24 inches to 30 inches apart. The holes should be no deeper than that of the root balls. Water the plants in their pots, then plant them, watering more as you go. When planted, the tops of the root balls should be visible; do not bury them under soil.

Southern Shield Fern Fern is deer resistant. Like most other ferns, it's great in massed plantings and for naturalizing as a ground cover. Include it in fern collections, native plant collections, bog gardens, shade gardens and woodland gardens.

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I have these holes in the yard. Let me know what you think.

I recently put some sand down and now I have these holes in the yard. They may have been there all along, but I have never noticed them until I put the sand in.  There was several holes in the yard where the previous owner had a large homemade swing set and play area and when they were removed it left holes, so I filled them and had lots of sand left over so I spread it around the yard. Please review and let me know what you think.

With holes that size (larger than a quarter), I'm thinking you could have voles. They're like tiny moles, but they don't make visible tunnels under the grass like moles do. There are products available made of castor oil that repel voles. Voles don't like castor oil any better than children do, so they run away. The oil mixture is usually mixed with water and sprayed on the affected area. The oil doesn't persist in the soil. It's usually washed away after rain or irrigation. But the castor oil mix is safe for children and pets that might play in the yard.

There are other products available that contain Warfarin. Warfarin is an anti-coagulant and very toxic. Added to some sort of bait, the voles ingest it and hemorrhage. Not only will it kill voles, but moles, gophers, woodchucks, rats, mice and squirrels. Obviously, it's also toxic to children and pets, so you should use extreme caution.

If neither of the options I've mentioned appeals to you, purchase a classic spring-loaded mouse trap. Bait it with apple bits or peanut butter. Set it near the vole holes. Go away for awhile and wait.

Always follow label instructions for repellants and poisons. Watch your fingers around the trap. Wear latex gloves to dispose of dead voles.

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