Showing posts with label insect control. Show all posts
Showing posts with label insect control. Show all posts

Saturday, August 8, 2026

Learning to Watch Ants Instead of Fighting Them

Fire ants Image by KingsInnPhotography from Pixabay

For many gardeners, ants are treated as enemies. The first instinct is to scatter bait, pour boiling water into the nest, or search for the strongest insecticide available. Yet ants have been tending the earth for millions of years—long before gardeners arrived with trowels and watering cans. Before declaring war on them, it is worth asking a simple question: What are the ants trying to tell us?

An organic garden is a place of observation as much as cultivation. Ants are not merely insects passing through. They are workers, scavengers, hunters, builders, farmers, and sometimes even shepherds. By watching them carefully, you can learn a surprising amount about your garden's health.

Ants Are Part of the Garden's Cleanup Crew

Many ants perform an important housekeeping role. They gather dead insects, fallen seeds, decaying organic matter, and other bits of debris that would otherwise remain on the soil surface.

A colony may remove hundreds of insect carcasses during a growing season. While birds and beetles receive much of the credit for cleaning up gardens, ants quietly perform their share of the work every day.

When you notice ants carrying away dead caterpillars or beetles, they are doing exactly what nature designed them to do.

Ant Hills Reveal Soil Conditions

An anthill is more than a pile of dirt.

Look closely at where ants choose to build.

Many species prefer:

  • Well-drained soil
  • Sunny locations
  • Bare patches with little vegetation
  • Sandy or loose soils
  • Areas that remain relatively undisturbed

If ants consistently build in one section of the garden, they may be revealing differences in drainage or soil texture that are not obvious at first glance.

Some gardeners discover hidden high spots or naturally drier areas simply by watching where ant colonies appear year after year.

Ants Can Point You Toward Aphid Problems

One of the most valuable lessons ants teach involves aphids.

If you notice streams of ants climbing stems, fruit trees, or rose bushes, don't focus on the ants first.

Look for aphids.

Ants "farm" aphids because aphids produce a sugary liquid called honeydew. The ants protect them from predators in exchange for this sweet food source.

Many gardeners spend weeks wondering why aphids seem impossible to eliminate, never realizing that ants are acting as tiny bodyguards.

Rather than fighting the ants alone, solve the real problem by managing the aphid population.

Fresh Soil Means Active Digging

Ants constantly excavate tunnels underground.

Fresh piles of loose soil indicate recent activity.

Watching these new excavations can tell you:

  • Which colonies are expanding
  • How moisture changes affect nest location
  • Which areas warm first in spring
  • Where the soil remains dry after rain

Some gardeners even notice ants relocating entire colonies ahead of prolonged wet weather.

Nature often notices changing conditions before we do.

Ants Aerate the Soil

Every tunnel an ant digs moves tiny amounts of soil.

One colony may excavate many pounds of earth over time.

These tunnels improve:

  • Air movement
  • Water infiltration
  • Root penetration
  • Mixing of organic matter

Earthworms receive most of the attention for improving soil structure, but ants are also important engineers beneath our feet.

Their work is especially noticeable in compacted soils.

Seeds Often Travel by Ant

Certain plants have evolved specifically to use ants as seed dispersers.

The seeds carry a small, nutritious structure called an elaiosome that attracts ants.

The ants carry the seed underground, eat the food attachment, then discard the seed in rich, protected soil.

Many woodland wildflowers depend on this remarkable partnership.

Even in home gardens, watching ants transport seeds can reveal one of nature's oldest gardening methods.

When Ants Become a Problem

Observation does not mean ignoring genuine problems.

Fire ants can threaten children, pets, and gardeners. Carpenter ants may indicate rotting wood around structures. Large colonies inside raised beds may dry out seedbeds or interfere with newly planted seedlings.

When ants create legitimate hazards, control measures may be necessary.

The difference is that observation comes first.

Instead of assuming every ant colony deserves destruction, first identify the species and understand what it is doing.

Often the ants themselves are not the problem—they are simply responding to conditions that deserve your attention.

Slow Down and Watch

One of the greatest pleasures of gardening is learning to notice small things.

Spend five minutes watching an ant trail.

Where are they going?

What are they carrying?

Do they disappear beneath mulch?

Are they climbing plants?

Do they avoid certain areas after rain?

Questions like these sharpen your powers of observation.

You begin to see the garden not as isolated plants but as a living community where every creature has a role.

A Different Kind of Gardening

Modern gardening often encourages us to react immediately to every insect we see.

Organic gardening teaches patience.

Not every insect is a pest.

Not every mound requires treatment.

Sometimes the wisest response is to kneel down, rest your elbows on your knees, and simply watch.

The ants may reveal a hidden aphid infestation, teach you about your soil, show you where moisture lingers, or simply remind you that countless lives are unfolding beneath your feet while you tend your tomatoes.

The best gardeners are not merely growers of plants. They are careful observers of creation. And few teachers are as patient—or as industrious—as the humble ant.

Friday, August 7, 2026

What Birds Reveal About Insect Activity

 Robins in a back yard 

Most gardeners spend their time watching plants. Experienced gardeners also watch the weather. But the keenest observers learn to watch something else entirely: the birds.

Birds are among the finest insect scouts in nature. Long before you notice aphids curling your rose leaves or caterpillars skeletonizing your cabbage, birds often know exactly where the feast has begun. Their feeding patterns can serve as an early warning system, helping organic gardeners discover pest problems before they become serious.

If you learn to read bird behavior, your garden will begin telling its story in an entirely new way.

Birds Go Where the Food Is

Most songbirds eat insects for at least part of the year, even species that consume seeds during the winter. During nesting season, insects become essential because they provide the protein needed for growing chicks.

A sudden increase in bird activity often signals an increase in insect activity.

If you notice robins repeatedly hopping through one corner of the lawn or wrens constantly visiting a certain shrub, there's a good chance they're harvesting insects from that area.

The birds are not visiting randomly. They have found something worth eating.

Chickadees and Titmice: The Caterpillar Hunters

Few birds work harder than chickadees and titmice.

Watch them carefully in spring. They'll inspect every twig, leaf, and bud, often hanging upside down while searching for tiny caterpillars, insect eggs, and larvae.

If several chickadees spend considerable time in one ornamental tree, examine it closely. You may discover:

  • Tent caterpillars
  • Fall webworms
  • Leafrollers
  • Early infestations of inchworms
  • Egg masses hidden beneath leaves

These birds frequently find problems before gardeners notice visible damage.

Swallows Tell You What's Flying

Swallows rarely feed on the ground.

Instead, they patrol the air, catching flying insects almost continuously.

A yard suddenly filled with swallows often indicates large populations of:

  • Mosquitoes
  • Gnats
  • Flying ants
  • Winged termites
  • Small moths
  • Midges

An evening aerial display may be beautiful to watch, but it also reveals what's hatching nearby.

Woodpeckers Reveal Hidden Insects

When a woodpecker spends several days working one tree, pay attention.

Woodpeckers don't simply peck at random.

They're listening for movement beneath the bark and extracting insects such as:

  • Bark beetle larvae
  • Carpenter ants
  • Borers
  • Wood-boring beetles

A tree receiving repeated visits deserves closer inspection. The birds may be discovering an insect infestation before outward symptoms become obvious.

Bluebirds Patrol the Lawn

Bluebirds prefer open ground where they can spot insects from a perch.

If a pair begins making repeated trips to one patch of lawn, they're likely feeding on:

  • Beetles
  • Grasshoppers
  • Crickets
  • Cutworms
  • Caterpillars

This doesn't necessarily mean there's a pest outbreak. It simply means insect life is abundant enough to support active feeding.

Wrens Search Every Crevice

Wrens behave like tiny inspectors.

They investigate vines, stacked firewood, stone walls, brush piles, and dense shrubs.

Their menu includes:

  • Spiders
  • Beetles
  • Earwigs
  • Small caterpillars
  • Scale insects
  • Various larvae

A wren spending unusual amounts of time on one shrub may be revealing an insect concentration that deserves investigation.

Flycatchers Reveal Hatches

Flycatchers often sit motionless before darting into the air to capture passing insects.

When they become unusually active, they're often responding to insect hatches that may be difficult for gardeners to notice.

You may discover:

  • Flying beetles
  • Small moths
  • Winged aphids
  • Emerging flies
  • Mayflies

Their behavior frequently changes within hours of a hatch beginning.

Crows Can Reveal Grub Problems

Crows occasionally dig through turf searching for white grubs, beetle larvae, or other soil-dwelling insects.

If several crows repeatedly tear at one area of lawn, investigate before repairing the damage.

While crows sometimes create a mess, they may also reveal an underlying insect problem beneath the surface.

Birds Follow the Seasons

Bird behavior changes throughout the year.

In spring, parents search constantly for protein-rich insects to feed nestlings.

By midsummer, fledglings join the hunt, increasing feeding activity dramatically.

During autumn, many birds shift gradually toward berries and seeds, though insect hunting continues whenever insects remain available.

Understanding these seasonal shifts helps you interpret what you're seeing.

Birds Are Better Than Sticky Traps

Gardeners often purchase traps to monitor insect populations.

Birds perform much the same function naturally.

Unlike traps, birds:

  • Cover large areas
  • Hunt continuously
  • Respond immediately to changing insect populations
  • Locate hidden insects beneath leaves and bark
  • Detect outbreaks before visible damage appears

They provide information every day without batteries, chemicals, or maintenance.

Encourage Nature's Scouts

If you want birds to serve as partners in pest detection, make your garden welcoming.

Provide:

  • Native shrubs for cover
  • Trees for nesting
  • Fresh water year-round
  • Dense vegetation for shelter
  • Seed-producing flowers
  • Minimal pesticide use

The healthier the bird population, the more eyes—and beaks—you have searching your garden every day.

Learn to Watch Before You Spray

Organic gardening begins with observation.

Before reaching for any control method, spend a few minutes simply watching.

Which birds are visiting?

Where are they feeding?

What are they catching?

What plants receive the most attention?

The answers often point directly toward developing insect populations.

Plants tell you what has already happened.

Birds often tell you what is happening right now.

A gardener who learns to read birds gains a quiet advantage. Instead of reacting after leaves have been chewed or flowers have been damaged, you'll begin noticing the earliest signs of change. The birds have already done the scouting. All that's left is to pay attention.

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Saturday, October 20, 2018

Unwanted Immigrant - The Spotted Lanternfly

Credit: Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture
"An invasive insect species native to China, India and Vietnam is posing a problem in at least two states" reports Fox News. "The spotted lanternfly is harming crops in Winchester, Virginia", and has been spotted in Pennsylvania. Apparently, the pest was observed in Pennsylvania as early as 2014. 
According to the USDA, "spotted lanternfly feeds on a wide range of fruit, ornamental and woody trees, with tree-of-heaven being one of the preferred hosts. Spotted lanternflies are invasive and can be spread long distances by people who move infested material or items containing egg masses. If allowed to spread in the United States, this pest could seriously impact the country’s grape, orchard, and logging industries."
  • Inspect your trees and plants for signs of this pest, particularly at dusk and at night when the insects tend to gather in large groups on the trunks or stems of plants.
  • Inspect trees (in particular, tree of heaven), bricks, stone, and other smooth surfaces for egg masses.
  • If you find an insect that you suspect is the spotted lanternfly, please contact your local Extension office or State Plant Regulatory Official to have the specimen identified properly.
  • Locate the Extension specialist near you
  • Contact your State Plant Regulatory Official 
If you live in Pennsylvania, an interactive plant pest quarantine map is provided to see if you’re in the spotted lanternfly quarantine.

As noted, spotted lanternfly is particularly attracted to "tree of heaven." Ironically, "tree of heaven" is not heavenly at all. According to the Nature Conservancy, "It is a prolific seed producer and can thrive in even the most unfavorable conditions with little management. Its rapid growth also means that it can crowd out nearby native plant species, and its aggressive root system can cause damage to pavement, sewers and building foundations."

It also attracts spotted lanternfly, which can be a bad thing or good. The bad thing is that it's a host plant for the little creatures. The good thing is that, as a spotted lanternfly magnet, a whole gathering can be eliminated in one place.
I guess those "No matter where you are from, we're glad you're our neighbor" yard signs don't actually apply to all.
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Friday, July 27, 2018

FAQ: Do you know a particular kind of bug spray that I should use on these plants that won't harm them?





Q. Something is still attacking my liriope plants, and a friend said it definitely looks like some kind of bug is eating them. But I can't see any bugs with my eyes. I put the slug bait around twice, and that has not stopped the problem. Do you know a particular kind of bug spray that I should use on these plants that won't harm them? I'm going to try bug spray once the rains stop. We've had a solid week or more of rain and thunderstorms. I have worked so hard on these plants to keep them alive and doing well. They look beautiful in my front yard. Please let me know what bug spray you would recommend. Many thanks!

A. As a rule, insecticides don't harm plants. There are exceptions. Oil-based formulations might, depending upon the plant. Since you can't identify the beast, you'd do best with a broad-spectrum insecticide. SaferGro PestOut, Ferti-Lome Broad Spectrum Insecticide RTS, Spectracide Triazicide Insect Killer For Lawns & Landscapes might work. They all come in ready-to-use form. There are several high-power broad-spectrum, systemic insecticides that should work without fail. Their disadvantages include cost and higher toxicity.


As with all chemicals, follow label instructions.

I hope this helps.

If you, dear reader, have had particular success with any broad-spectrum insecticide, please let us know in the Comment section. We'd love to hear from you!


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Monday, August 24, 2015

My crape myrtles are covered with black on the leaves.

Sooty mildew on Eucalyptus
Bidgee [CC BY 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0)]

Q. My crape myrtles are covered with black on the leaves. It won’t wash or wipe off. What is it and how can I get rid of it? Will it kill my crape myrtles? 

A. The black stuff is called sooty mold or sooty mildew which includes several species of fungi that thrive in honeydew. Honeydew is a sticky secretion from the bodies of aphids, whiteflies, scale insects and similar pests.  Honeydew reminds me of tiny droplets of corn syrup spray. Wherever it falls – on other plants or even your walkway – sooty mold will appear.


It’s futile to try removing the existing mold on leaves, but you can prevent it from appearing on new ones. Get rid of the insects. You’ll get rid of the mold. Shop your local garden center for insecticides labeled for the target insects. If mold occurs on ornamental plants, I prefer products containing systemic insecticide/fertilizer combinations. If applications are begun early in the season, you may prevent insect and sooty mold infestations all summer long.


Sooty mold will not kill your crape myrtles. However, the black film does interfere with exposure to sunlight, which is essential to photosynthesis. Repeated infestations can weaken your plants.

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Monday, April 20, 2015

Large black worms attacking in large numbers...

1st instar larvae on Vitis rotundifolia


Help again? I was checking the vines this morning and there are small black worms attacking in large numbers the leaves of the scuppernongs and muscadines.  I would assume this is some sort of moth or butterfly larvae, but cannot find suitable information on the internet.  Any ideas would help.  I hate to attempt to get rid of them with the wrong pesticides if I have to use them at all.

They might be Hyalophora cecropia , 1st instar phase. The reason they don't show the coloration and size that you might see in photos of the big, green caterpillars on the internet is due to their immature phase.

I don't think you need to bother getting rid of them. More grape leaves will appear. They won't denude your vines. There are probably enough predators to keep them in check. Some type of BT dust might benefit.

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Tuesday, January 27, 2015

That ugly cottony scale.


http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/25/Icerya-purchasi.jpg
Icerya purchasi

Q. Since the subject came up and there is a likelihood of that ugly cottony scale this time of year, could you address it too?

A. I'm assuming you are referring to cottony cushiony scale on indoor plants. If you're referring to another, please let me know, though I might suggest the same remedies.

Cottony cushiony scale can afflict many plants including edibles and ornamentals, especially citrus and pittosporum. By sucking sap from plants, they may weaken them to the point of death. At the very least, they suck vitality from plants. Ants feed on honeydew produced by cottony cushiony scale, so they try to protect the scale insects from predators.

Cottony cushiony scale is difficult to control in the adult phase because the cottony cushiony covering protects the little critters from insecticides. If they have infested deciduous plants, spray the plants during dormancy with horticultural oil. Another strategy you should use early in the season is to reduce the ant population. Ant baits or sticky materials applied to plant trunks and branches may help.

A few other insect predators are effective in controlling scale. If ants are controlled, the predators might have a chance to help you out.

Some insecticides such as Malathion can be effective in controlling this scale if applied in spring or fall when young scales are active. Some systemic insecticides might be effective, but check the label to see if the chemical is listed for cottony cushiony scale. Always follow label instructions. Never use systemic insecticides on edible and fruit-bearing plants.

The downside of using chemical pesticides is that they also kill beneficial insects, such as the predators mentioned before. Cottony cushiony scale is indeed a tough insect to control.

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Monday, January 19, 2015

How to control mealybugs on Japanese hollies.

Mealybugs by Alexlutor CC BY-SA 3.0


Q. How can I control mealybugs on my Japanese hollies?

A. First, make sure those are mealybugs on your Japanese hollies (Ilex crenata). Some species of scale insects resemble mealybugs, but they require different methods of control. If you've established that your pests are mealybugs, there is a relatively safe solution you can make at home that should work. Make a 50:50 solution of isopropyl alcohol and water in a 1.5 liter spray bottle. Add about 1 teaspoon of liquid dish soap. Mix well. Spray to cover the mealybugs. The treatment may need to be repeated several times over the course of a few weeks to destroy eggs and emerging insects.

Take care, though, that the liquid dish soap not be too strong. A stronger concentration than that recommended can damage to foliage. If in doubt, try the spray on a few leaves not readily visible to see if the solution causes damage before covering the entire plant.

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Wednesday, August 13, 2014

What should I use to treat mites on my citrus?

Orange tree with fruit

Q. I've discovered spider mites on my satsuma orange tree. What do you recommend I treat it with? The tree is growing in a pot on my porch so I can take it indoors in winter. I don't want to use a pesticide that will ruin the fruit.

A. Spider mites like dry conditions. Since the satsuma is growing in a pot on your porch, it's probably not exposed to rainfall. When you water, you add water to the pot. Right? So, the leaves are seldom exposed to water. As a preventative measure in the future, spray the leaves above and beneath when you water your orange to discourage the mites.

Spraying the leaves with water, especially the undersides, may be enough to get rid of them. If not, there are two pesticides on the market that might do the trick. One is Monterey Bug Buster. The active ingredient is esfenvalerate - a synthetic pyrethroid insecticide. The other pesticide is Trounce by Safer, the makers of insecticidal soap. Trounce contains insecticidal soap and pyrethroids.

As with all pesticides, follow label instructions.

Friday, March 7, 2014

Another Pest On The Loose: The Redheaded Flea Beetle.

Yet another pest is on the loose, apparently moving southward from New England. Now it's the redheaded flea beetle (Systena frontalis). It has recently become a serious nursery pest, and if it's a problem for plant nurseries, it can become a problem for you.


xpda [CC BY-SA 4.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0)]

The redheaded flea beetle munches on roots and leaves of woody plants, vegetables and perennials including crape myrtle, hydrangea, roses, buddleia, forsythia, blueberries, cranberries, cabbage, beans, beets, sedum, salvia, hibiscus, rudbeckia and coreopsis. After overwintering in the soil, the larvae hatch and start on the roots. Heavy infestations can completely girdle plants.

The larvae are slender and white. Adult redheaded flea beetles are about 1/16 inch long, black with reddish heads and have long antennae. As the name suggests, they jump when spooked.

Gardeners probably won't see them when they're feeding in the root zone, but will notice skeletonized leaves from feeding adults. Redheaded flea beetles seem to be more abundant in rural gardens adjacent to row crops such as soybeans and corn.

So far, there aren't any sure-fire remedies for redheaded flea beetle infestations. They might be caught with sticky traps. They feed on certain weeds, so their numbers might be reduced if gardens are kept weed-free. Researchers are working on chemical combinations they hope will do the trick. Systemic insecticides containing dinotefuran and bifenthrin seem to work well. Dinotefuran is pretty expensive.

Pesticides should be applied in mid- to late spring when larvae are most active. Always follow label instructions when applying chemical pesticides.

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Tuesday, March 4, 2014

A New Pest on the Loose: Crape Myrtle Bark Scale

There's a new garden pest on the loose. It's an insect called Crape myrtle bark scale (CMBS), and it's spreading very quickly across the southeastern U.S. Crape myrtle bark scale was first observed near Dallas, TX in 2004, and it's spreading eastward.

CMBS appears as white or grayish felt-like encrustations on the wood. At first they may be found in branch crotches or near pruning wounds, but heavy infestations are capable of covering the tree.

Since most gardeners don't spend much time inspecting crape myrtle crotches, the adult insects are usually missed until black sooty mold is discovered. Sooty mold is a black, powdery fungus that is usually associated with aphid infestations, so the real culprit may not be identified correctly.

Crape myrtle bark scale probably won't destroy our crape myrtles, but a heavy infestation and all that sooty mold sure will make them look ugly. It also stands to reason that a ton of insects sucking on the trees and sooty mildew coating the leaves can weaken them.

There are a few things you can do to combat CMBS:
  • Be aware that CMBS may target hybrid crape myrtles first. If you have hybrids, check them closely every now and then.
  • Look for black sooty mold on the bark, remembering that sooty mold may result from aphids and CMBS.
  • Washing the trunk and limbs as high as you can reach, working with a soft brush and dishwashing soap. This will help to remove female scales, eggs and the black sooty mold.
  • Though horticultural oil spray hasn't been shown to be effective, it sure can't hurt. Horticultural oil works by covering the scales and suffocating them. Spray with enough force to get the oil under loose bark and into tight crevices. Spray thoroughly.
  • Winter is a very good time to wash your trees and spray with horticultural oil because the leaves are off and it's easier to see what you're doing, and higher application rates can be used without hurting the plant.
  • Systemic insecticides applied as a soil drench are known to be effective. Be sure to read and follow all label instructions. It's best to spray during May or June. Don't expect instant results because it will take a few weeks for the chemical to spread throughout the plant.
  • If you prefer to avoid systemic insecticides, let lady beetles do the work. Lady beetles love to eat aphids and baby scales.

For more information, check out the following link: Texas A/M: http://bit.ly/MBlyAJ

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Tuesday, October 29, 2013

FAQ: Can I prune my perennials back in fall?

 Q. A lot of my perennials are looking worn out and unsightly. Can I prune them back in fall? A friend told me I should wait until spring.

A. When your perennial plants have run through their summer cycle of growing, flowering and going to seed, it's time to prune them back. They'll look a lot better. In addition, trimming removes dead and decaying plant material that harbors diseases and insects. So, go ahead and trim your perennials. Be sure you remove the trimmings from your perennial beds. Your garden environment will be a much healthier place, and look better, too.

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