Here Are 5 Vines That Will Attract Birds To Your Garden

As I noted in a previous article, bird-watchers who want to see them up close usually attract them with bird feeders, houses and baths. There are, however, other ways of enticing them that shouldn't be overlooked. The landscape can be transformed into a bird sanctuary by including plants that provide food and shelter. Ornamental vines are important components of such a plan.

Here are 5 ornamental vines that birds find irresistible.

A Clarion Call For Hummingbirds 

Trumpet Vine (pictured above) or Trumpet Creeper (Campsis radicans) is a climbing deciduous vine native to the southern United States. Travelers may have noticed it growing up and over fences and signposts along the highway. Large, bright yellow, orange to red trumpetshaped flowers appear from midsummer to fall. Campsis is popular world-wide for its stunning flowers, and because it attracts hummingbirds.

Campsis is cold-hardy in USDA climate zones 4 through 10. For best results, plant in full sun, well-drained soil with average to poor fertility. Plants are drought tolerant when established and heat-loving. It is best planted next to a permanent structure for support.

Yellow Garlands of Spring 

Gelsemium sempervirens – known as Carolina Jasmine, Carolina Jessamine, Yellow Jasmine, and whatever else comes to the viewer’s mind – is another great native plant that provides nectar for the birds. It’s grown mostly for its glorious early spring flowers. Southerners wax nostalgic about it. Unfortunately, it is cold hardy only in USDA climate zones 7 through 9. The flowers usually appear before the hummingbirds arrive, so is best planted as a nectar source for other species. I’ve written much more about it in a blog article, Carolina Jessamine – The Yellow Garlands of Spring.

Wild and Wonderful 

Most of us think of English ivy and all its varieties as a rampant but boring evergreen covering, or worse. But look closer and you’ll find a plant with lots of interesting variations that can not only provide mass ground- or wall covering, but also shelter and an ornamental food source for birds.

Some folks dislike ivy for it's vigorous growth habit. The very characteristic that makes it a fine ground cover can render it unwelcome; it covers ground. It's true that ivy can be troublesome if completely unchecked, but ivy does not damage trees or sound structures. It isn't a parasite. It cannot harm a mature tree, but it could outlive an old one. It cannot collapse a sound building. Ivy is a major food source for many birds, and the fruits ripen up just in time to fatten them before winter arrives. Hedera ivies also provide abundant shelter.

It Keeps Institutions From Crumbling 

Boston Ivy - Parthenocissus tricuspidata - is native to east Asia, not Massachusetts. Each leaf is composed of three lobes. In juvenile foliage, each lobe is very distinct. It is a vigorous climber, as anyone who has seen it on a wall knows well. Fall brings bright colors of yellow, orange, red or burgundy. The walls it adorns seem draped in a majestic tapestry. It is also widely used to cover trellises, pergolas, and as an ornamental ground cover for erosion control. Small flowers appear in July or August followed by fruits in October or November, and birds love 'em.

Boston ivy grows in any fertile, well-drained soil, and thrives in USDA climate zones 48. In other words, it'll probably perform well in your garden.

A Native With Great Possibilities 

Virginia Creeper - Parthenocissus quinquefolia - is native to many parts of North America, from Quebec to Florida, and westward to Colorado. It's a member of the grape (Vitaceae) family. The relationship is easy to see when you look at the flowers and fruits, but I don't recommend them for human consumption. Each leaf is composed of five leaflets. It climbs vigorously. Fall brings bright colors of yellow, orange, red or burgundy. The depth of fall color seems to depend upon available sunlight. Virginia Creeper is widely used as an ornamental ground cover, but its fall color and ability to cover walls, trellises and pergolas makes it popular as well.

Virginia Creeper thrives USDA climate zones 3-9, a broader range than Boston ivy will tolerate. Its fruit and dense growth habit make it very attractive to birds for food and shelter.

These suggested vines, along with many bulbs, perennials, annuals, shrubs and trees will be welcome additions to your landscape from the birds' points of view.

Remember to think outside the bird feeder when you plan to feed the birds.

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I would like to attract more birds to my garden. What do you recommend?

Birds Choice SNFT 200 Fly-Through Feeder made from recycled poly

Q. I would like to attract more birds to my garden. Will bird feeders and a bird bath help? What to you recommend?

A. There are four basic elements of wildlife habitat: Food, water, shelter and cover. Bird feeders and bird baths only provide food and water. I recommend you offer as much diversity as possible to provide all the elements.

Species are attracted to different kinds of food. Consider offering nyjer seed, black oil sunflower, mixed seed blends, cracked corn, peanuts, suet, mealworms and nectar.

Water is necessary for bathing and drinking. A clean bird bath will provide both for most species, but hummingbirds like to fly through water spray. Attach a misting device near your bird bath, or attach it to a sturdy post or shrub near your hummingbird feeders.

Bird houses provide shelter, but mostly for nesting birds. Birds doen't usually set up permanent residence in them. Evergreen shrubs and trees are welcome additions to any wildlife habitat because they provide protection from the elements and roosting places during the night.

The need for cover is slightly different from the need for shelter for cover provides protection from predators. Evergreen shrubs and trees provide both, but smaller shrubs, grasses, perennials and vines give birds places to hide. I see birds outside my office window darting from shrubs and trees to the feeders and back again all day long. When visiting the feeders, the birds are more exposed. If I didn't provide safe places to hide, I'm sure I'd have fewer birds at my feeders.

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Kniphofia - Out Of Africa A Red Hot Torch Lily

Kniphofia uvaria. Photo by Toby Hudson.

 Out Of Africa A Red Hot Torch Lily

From Africa comes a bold spear of blazing hot color to a garden near you. It's called Kniphofia (pronounced nip-HOFF-ee-ah), the Red Hot Poker or Torch Lily. Kniphofia species are native from Ethiopia to Sudan, Madagascar and South Africa, with most found in the later.

Depending on the species, long, sword-like leaves may grow to 3 feet long. Upright spikes of bright, tubular flowers may extend to 6 feet (K. multiflora). Most popular garden species grow to less than half that size. Flower color ranges from red orange to light yellow. The flower spikes inspired the names Torch Lily and Red Hot Poker.

Kniphofia is a member of the Asphodeloideae subfamily, along with Aloe. Aloe is another African native. So closely does it resemble Aloe, in fact, that it was originally given that name by Carl Linnaeus (1707-1778). Aloe (pronounced AL-oh) is derived from an Arabic word, Alloeh, meaning "bitter."

In Linnaeus day, taxonomy was not so standardized. There were almost as many systems as there were botanists. They'd name, correspond, argue, reorder and rename. Sometimes they'd name plants to honor other botanists. Red Hot Poker, for example, was later renamed to honor Johannes Kniphof (1704-1763). Kniphof was a botanist and Professor of Medicine at Erfurt University. German naturalist, Lorenze Oken (1779-1851) reorganized Linnaeus' Aloe (aka Kniphofia). Sometime along the way, Kniphofia was also named Tritoma because of its flower form, but the name didn't stick.

Undoubtedly the fiery flower spikes of Red Hot Poker first attracted the attention of plant explorers. But they weren't only interested in ornamental value. They were drawn by medical potential, too. Very many early botanists were also physicians. It's possible explorers also observed that Red Hot Poker was used by native Africans for treating stomach cramps, and for eradicating intestinal parasites in cattle. More recently, some species have shown potential for treating malaria.

Kniphofias thrive in full sun in USDA climate zones 5 through 10 in average, well-drained soil with pH from 6.6 to 7.5. All species are drought and heat-tolerant. Kniphofia attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. Deer will not eat it!

If soil is compacted, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8 inches deep, removing all traces of weeds.  If the soil is high in organic matter and friable, it may not require cultivation.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil, if necessary.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4 inches to 6 inches of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants. 

Space the plants 12 inches to 18 inches apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1 inch deep.

Kniphofia requires very little maintenance. In some areas Kniphofia has made itself too much at home - parts of Australia and California, for example,

Red Hot Poker is a superb plant that lends height, texture and bold color to a sunny garden. Plant it to attract hummingbirds and butterflies. It's also fine addition to African plant collections and medicinal gardens.

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Aquilegia (Columbine) - The Eagle And The Dove

Aquilegia canadensis by Jennifer Anderson @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database

Aquilegia (Columbine) - The Eagle And The Dove

The name Aquilegia (a-kwi-LEE-jee-a) is derived from the Latin aquila, referring to the talon-like structures or "spurs" on its flowers. The name "columbine", derived from the Latin word for "dove" (columba), was given because someone observed that, viewed from below, the petals resemble a cluster of doves. So, in one plant genus we have a vision of two very different birds.

Some of my dearest childhood memories are of hiking in the mountains with my elders, brother and cousins. Actually, we didn't hike; we strolled. For us children, strolling and stopping was a source of frustration. We were always in a hurry wanting to reach the summit. But we were usually accompanied by at least one real old elder who slowed us down a lot. Typically, the oldest was also the most knowledgeable about plants, or who felt like stopping to talk about them more. "Boys, now boys," grandfather would say, "this is...", and he'd probe it with his walking staff and proceed to tell us what ailment it was good for. After he died, my dad and uncles would do the same.

So I was leisurely, thoughtfully introduced to Aquilegia. In the Rocky Mountains it was Aquilegia coerulea growing beside a brook. It was Aquilegia canadensis along the Blue Ridge.

Actually, there was one thing that could temporarily distract me from reaching the summit. If the teaching elder would say, "Indians used this to...", I was ready to stop and learn. I learned that columbine was used to treat stomach cramps; reduce fever, pain and swelling; kill parasites; stop bleeding and make you pee. I also learned that little water droplets sometimes collected in the tops of the flowers below the spurs, which was kind of a neat thing to discover. I sometimes wondered if I could take something to kill pinworms, why it wouldn't kill me, too. I never asked. But, I suppose it's because Aquilegia is somewhat toxic, though not dangerous if taken as directed by a knowledgeable doctor.

From those woodland strolls, I also learned a principle by my elders' examples which means much more to me now that I'm the elder often inclined to mosey and pause at flowers.

"All that is needed for calm happiness
Hast thou not here?
Hast thou not pleasure in the golden bough
That shields thee from the day's fierce glow?
Canst thou not raise thy breast to catch,
On the soft moss beside the brook,
The sun's last rays at even?
Here thou mayst wander through the flowers' fresh dew,
Pluck from the overflow
The forest-trees provide,
Thy choicest food,--mayst quench
Thy light thirst at the silvery spring.
Oh friend, true happiness
Lies in contentedness,
And that contentedness
Finds everywhere enough."
"Oh, wise one!" said the eagle, while he sank
In deep and ever deep'ning thought--
"Oh Wisdom! like a dove thou speakest!"
The Eagle And The Dove - Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

If you'd like to grow columbine, you probably can. Of the 60 or so Aquilegia species, 22 are native to North America. One Aquilegia vulgaris, native to Europe, thrives here, too. You'll find columbines in practically every state and province. Among the various species and hybrids, there are columbines cold hardy or heat-tolerant enough to thrive from USDA climate zones 3 to 10.

Choose a site in full sun to full shade. In hotter climates, partial shade is preferred. Before planting, you'll need to know the pH level of your soil. Aquilegias generally prefer slightly moist, well-drained soil with pH ranging from 6.6 to 7.5. Take a sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. The fee is nominal.

If soil is compacted, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8 inches deep, removing all traces of weeds.  If the soil is high in organic matter and friable, it may not require cultivation.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil, if necessary.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4 inches to 6 inches of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants between 12 inches to 24 inches apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1 inch deep.

Columbines are suitable for mixed perennial borders, hummingbird and butterfly gardens, medicinal plant and native plant collections.

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Beardtongue - More Appealing Than It Sounds

Penstemon x mexicali 'Prairie Twilight'

The name, "Beard-tongue", doesn't sound at all appealing. Monstrous, perhaps. Or a symptom of illness. Yet, among plants, the Beard-tongue is much more appealing than it sounds. The name belongs to the genus, Penstemon (pronounced PEN-stem-on) and refers to the flowers' five stamens - 4 fertile and 1 infertile. Trumpet-shaped penstemon flowers more or less resemble open mouths. The infertile stamen, protruding through the mouth, suggests the common name. This photo by Walter Siegmund appearing at Wikipedia, shows a good example.

Penstemon flower - closeup

Or is that Mick Jagger coughing up a hairball?

Penstemon is a large genus including over 250 species. Most are native to North America. As you can see from the PLANTS Profile map, they enjoy a very wide distribution, and may be found from alpine to desert environments. In addition to the species, very many hybrids have been developed. Many of the newer ones are derived from Mexican species. Though hardiness differs by species and hybrid, they tend to share other requirements - full sun to partial shade, well-drained soil, pH between 6.1 to 7.8.

Flower spikes, rising above the foliage, generally blossom from June through September. Species range in height from 4 inches to 72 inches. As you might expect, the shorter species tend to be more cold-hardy. Foliage is usually evergreen. I recommend them for alpine gardens, rock gardens, low perennial borders, hanging baskets and and containers.

Tall penstemons are wonderful in groupings, adding height, color and texture to mixed annual and perennial borders. They're marvelous for cut flowers. All penstemons attract butterflies and hummingbirds.

Though penstemon's have enjoyed mild popularity since the 19th century, the selection of Penstemon digitalis 'Husker Red' as the 1996 Perennial Plant of the Year sent their popularity soaring. Consequently, many new varieties and hybrids have been developed.

When choosing penstemons for your perennial garden, select those which are hardy in your climate zone. The USDA climate zone map is an indispensable resource. If the ones you like are not hardy in your area, don't despair, they can be treated as annuals. If only semi-hardy, a good layer of mulch over winter may protect the crowns enough to survive.

Before planting, take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. Follow their instructions. If amendments are recommended, incorporate them into the soil when cultivating. Cultivate to a depth of 10 inches. Remember, good drainage is essential.

You might wonder whether penstemon has any known medicinal attributes. As a matter of fact, various species do. Herbal Medicine of the American Southwest, by Charles Kane, says that penstemon has been used as a poultice for skin wounds, insect bites and rashes. HerbNET reports that penstemon has also been used to relieve toothache, stomachache, chest pains, fever and chills.

In review, penstemons are wonderful for cut flowers, and for attracting hummingbirds and butterflies. They're also fine for xeriscaping. Those with medicinal herb gardens may consider including penstemon in their collections. With so many species and hybrids available, you're sure to find several that are appropriate for your garden.

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The Saving Graces Of Sage

"Sweet-smelling sage grows in abundance right at the front of my garden.  It has a forceful energy and produces a healing drink.  Helpful with many human ailments, it merits eternal youth."  -- Hortulus, Walafrid Strabo (c. 808 – August 18, 849)

"Amongst my herbs, sage holds the place of honour; of good scent it is and full of virtue for many ills," opined the monk.

His subject was Salvia officinalis (pronounced SAL-vee-ah oh-fiss-ih-NAH-liss), an herb known since ancient times for its healing properties.  Salvia translated means "saving."  Officinalis means "official", referring to its inclusion in the materia medica - that body of knowledge now known as pharmacology.  It is popularly called "common sage."  But there's nothing common about it.  Common sage is an extraordinary gift that heals the body and graces the table.

The plant is native to the Mediterranean region.  It's a member of the Lamiaceae family which includes mints, lavender and rosemary.

As I've mentioned in other articles, Hippocrates is quoted as instructing, "Let your food be your medicine, and your medicine be your food."  So the species was and continues to be used as a flavoring and medicinal herb.  Salvia is rich in vitamins A, B-complex, C and numerous minerals.  It improves kidney and liver function and stimulates the circulatory system.  Antioxidant agents help to prevent carcinogenic compounds from forming.  Chemicals such as thujone are reputed to improve mental concentration.

If you are tempted to treat yourself with sage, I highly recommend you ask your doctor first.  This is particularly true of women who are pregnant.

Salvia is not a small genus.  Arguably S. officinalis is best known.  But there are between 700 and 900 species in the genus, including annuals, perennials, shrubs and sub-shrubs, making Salvia the largest genus in the Lamiaceae family.

It's well beyond the scope of this article to treat them all, so I'll mention only a few.

• Salvia coccinea - Common name: Scarlet Sage, Hummingbird Sage, Texas Sage. A tender perennial.  Native to southern United States, Caribbean, Mexico, Central and South America.  Flower color: Red/variable.  Height: 18" to 24".  Hardiness:  USDA climate zones 7 - 10.  Exposure: Full sun to partial shade.  Use:  Ornamental.
• Salvia divinorum - Common name: Diviners' Sage, Maria Pastora.  A tender perennial.  Native to Sierra Mazateca in Oaxaca, Mexico.  Flower color: Light blue/white.  Fragrance: Don't know.  Height: 6' to 8'.  Hardiness: USDA climate zones 10 - 11.  Exposure: Shade.  Use:  Messes with the mind, calms anxiety.  Note:  Illegal in some states unless used for ornamental purposes.
• Salvia elegans - Common name: Pineapple Sage.  A tender perennial.  Native to mountains of Guatemala and Mexico.  Flower color: Red.  Fragrance: Pineapple.  Height: 36" to 48".  Hardiness:  USDA climate zones 8 - 11.  Exposure:  Full sun.  Use: Ornamental, tea, anti-depressant.
• Salvia farinacea - Common name: Mealy-cup Sage.  A tender perennial.  Native to Mexico.  Flower color: blue or white.  Height: 24".  Hardiness: USDA climate zones  8 - 11. Use:  Ornamental.
• Salvia guaranitica - Common name: Brazilian Sage, Hummingbird Sage.  A tender perennial.  Native to South America.  Flower color: Dark blue. Height: 24" to 48".  Hardiness: USDA climate zones 7 - 11.  Use:  Ornamental.
• Salvia hispanica - Common name: Chia.  Annual.  Native to Mexico and Guatemala.  Flower color: Light blue.  Height: 36".  Use: Beverage.
• Salvia nemorosa - Common name: Meadow Sage. Perennial.  Native to central Europe and western Asia.  Flower color: Blue, white, pink.  Height: to 36".  Hardiness: USDA climate zones 5 - 10.  Use: Ornamental.
• Salvia splendens - Common name: Scarlet Sage, Annual Salvia.  Annual.  Native to Brazil.  Flower color: Red, white, pink, salmon.  Height: 12".  Use: Ornamental.

As you have learned by now, there's a lot that you can do with salvia.  Don't forget, however, that the species have different properties.  You mustn't confuse them.

Herb gardens, fragrance gardens, hummingbird and butterfly gardens are not complete without salvia.  Salvia is also very effective in annual and mixed perennial borders for color and textural contrast.  If your growing space is limited, salvia performs well in containers.

Salvia guaranitica - Common name: Brazilian Sage, Hummingbird Sage

Salvia is generally heat-tolerant, often drought-tolerant, sometimes deer and rabbit resistant.  Particular tolerances, resistances, benefits and dangers depend upon the species.

Hardiness also varies by species.  Most require full sun and well-drained soils.  Take a soil sample, along with the name of the species you intend to grow, to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for proper analysis.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant spacing varies by species. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant your salvia with other species having similar cultural requirements.  The greatest cause of failure for salvia is over-watering.

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Rosemary - The Herb Of Remembrance

For the sake of some things
That be now no more
I will strew rushes
On my chamber-floor,
I will plant bergamot
At my kitchen-door.

For the sake of dim things
That were once so plain
I will set a barrel
Out to catch the rain,
I will hang an iron pot
On an iron crane.

Those nostalgic lines from Rosemary by Edna St. Vincent Millay may stir similar emotions, if not actual responses in you.  In the language of flowers, rosemary symbolizes remembrance.  Few would strew rushes on the floor in memory of "the good old days", though bergamot may be found by kitchen doors, and rain barrels are becoming more popular.  Iron pots, if you can still find them, are most often used as planters.

Rosemary is also growing in popularity.  Once found mostly in herb gardens, it is now common in ornamental gardens, as well.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus, pronounced rose-mah-REE-nus) is a small genus of perennials including only two species: R. eriocalyx and R. officinalis.  R. officinalis (pronounced oh-fiss-ih-NAH-liss) is the most popular.

Rosemary is native to the Mediterranean region from Spain to northwest Africa, often near the sea.  Rosmarinus, in fact, means "dew of the sea."  It's a member of the Lamiaceae family which includes mints, lavender, russian sage, and salvia.  Along with many other members of the family, rosemary contains essential oils and was discovered very early on to be beneficial to the body.  Officinalis means "official", referring to its inclusion in the materia medica - that body of knowledge now known as pharmacology.  

Historically, rosemary was used for medicine.  Hippocrates is quoted as instructing, "Let your food be your medicine, and your medicine be your food."  So rosemary was and continues to be used as a flavoring.  Its healthful effects are amazing.   Rosemary is rich in vitamin A, which has a positive effect on vision.  It improves kidney and liver function.  Rosemary is a rich source of iron and stimulates the circulatory system.  Antioxidants in rosemary help to prevent carcinogenic compounds from forming when meat is cooked at high temperatures.  Carnosic acid helps to fight off stroke and neurodegenerative conditions such as Alzheimer's Disease.  It's no wonder that rosemary is known as the herb of remembrance.

If you are tempted to research rosemary to treat yourself, I highly recommend you ask your doctor first.  This is particularly true of women who are pregnant.

Rosemary has evergreen, needle-like leaves that are resinous and fragrant.  Small, light blue flowers are edible and produced throughout the growing season.  The species grows to 48" or more and at least as wide.  Newer cultivars may be more compact.  One cultivar grows prostrate.

Herb gardens, fragrance gardens, hummingbird gardens, bee gardens and butterfly gardens are not complete without rosemary.  It's also very effective in mixed perennial borders for color and textural contrast.  Rosemary responds well to pruning, so it makes a fine hedge.  If your growing space is limited, rosemary performs well in containers.  I've even seen it trained as bonsai.

Where ever you plant it, you'll find yourself stepping out to snip a few sprigs of rosemary for use in the kitchen.  Rosemary can be used in recipes fresh or dry, and is wonderful as an ingredient in aromatic cooking oils.

Rosemary is drought-tolerant, deer and rabbit resistant.  The essential oils may repel some vermin.  Those who live near the sea will appreciate its salt-tolerance.

Hardy in USDA climate zones 7 through 10, rosemary requires full sun and well-drained soils with pH ranging from 6.6 to 8.5.  Take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for proper analysis.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 24" to 36" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant rosemary with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between watering.  The greatest cause of failure is over-watering.  Rosemary is certainly a low-maintenance plant.

Rosemary improves health and pleases the senses.  It enhances the beauty of your garden, cheers the nose and delights the palate.  Do remember to include rosemary in your garden.

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Trumpet Creeper -The Hummingbird Clarion

Trumpet Creeper (Campsis radicans), also known as Trumpet Vine and Cow-Itch Vine, is a climbing deciduous vine native to the southern United States. Its only relative, Campsis grandiflora, is native to China. The latin name, Campsis radicans, refers to its somewhat pendulous flowers, like tubular bells, and the fact that it climbs "by the roots". A vigorous climber, Trumpet Creeper develops prominent aerial roots as it matures. Older vines can be as thick as your arm. The common name, Cow-Itch Vine, refers to the fact that it can cause skin irritation to sensitive persons, but so can tulip bulbs. I've never experienced any irritation myself.

If you have ever traveled through the South, you may have noticed it growing up and over fences and signposts along the highway. Large, bright yellow, orange to red trumpet-shaped flowers appear from mid-summer to fall. Trumpet Creeper is popular world-wide in those areas where it can be grown for its flowers.

Foliage of Trumpet Creeper is pinnately compound, meaning that each leaf, up to 12" long, has leaflets that grow off to the side of the "stem". Vines will climb anything up to 40' high, attaching themselves so tightly that if removed they take some of the structure with them. That shouldn't be a problem as long as the plant is intended to cover permanently. Surfaces that may require maintenance, such as wood requiring paint, should be kept free of Trumpet Creeper.

Campsis radicans is cold-hardy in USDA climate zones 4 through 10. It flowers best in full sun, but will grow in full sun or shade in well-drained soil with average to poor fertility. If planted in shade, it will find something to climb and keep going until it enjoys sunlight. Plants are drought tolerant when established and heat-loving.

Because the flowers are exceptionally attractive to hummingbirds, it is usually planted with that purpose in mind. It is best planted next to a permanent structure. A solid wood post, masonry wall, dead tree trunk or living tree will do just fine. I've seen it planted beside a vertical post so that it engulfs it, forms its own support and looks like a tree itself.

Trumpet Creeper can be effective as a ground cover for erosion control in large areas, but it needs room to grow. If allowed to grow as a ground cover, it will certainly do so, but will climb the first chance it gets.

Prepare the planting bed for Trumpet Creeper by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep. Add enough soil to raise the bed at least 4" above the surrounding ground level. This will help to promote good drainage. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil. Fertilizer may be used. If you choose to do so, incorporate 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Highly fertile soil will cause Trumpet Creeper to grow like a rocket. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant Trumpet Creeper 18" to 36" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. If you are planting bare root vines, the roots should be spread out in the hole. Do not plant them any deeper than they grew previously. You should be able to see a difference in the plant tissue at the previous soil line. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the roots. If you are planting container grown stock, do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" deep.

If the plant is stressed during planting, it will usually drop its leaves as a protective measure. While it is unsightly and may be worrisome to the novice, maintaining proper soil moisture will encourage new leaves to sprout, and away you go.

If planted in an appropriate area, Campsis radicans is a fine plant that is very effective as an ornamental vine and hummingbird lure.

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Come Feed The Birds

According to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, there are now over 51.3 million bird-watchers in the United States, and the number continues to grow. A birder is defined as an individual who "must have either taken a trip a mile or more from home for the primary purpose of observing birds and/or closely observed or tried to identify birds around the home." The vast majority do so at home. And why not? It is so easy and inexpensive to do.

If you are not yet a birder, you should consider this marvelous educational hobby. You'll delight in watching these feathered creatures, and as your knowledge increases so will your sense of satisfaction. If you are a bird-watcher, introduce someone else to the pleasure.

When our children were very young, we positioned a bird bath and feeders in view of a special window so they could watch and learn. And when our parents aged, we provided them with bird feeders so they could watch from their favorite chairs. Feeding the birds is a kindness for birds and people alike.

To feed the widest variety of birds, different types of bird feeders and foods should be used.

Platform and tray feeders are flat structures with short walls attached to the rims to prevent seed from falling off. The feeders may be set on the ground, mounted on poles or hung. Some are designed to be mounted beneath other types of feeders to catch spilled seed.

These can present a wide variety of seeds. Filled with millet, platform and tray feeders attract blackbirds, cowbirds, doves, juncos, chipping sparrows, house sparrows, tree sparrows, white-crowned sparrows and white-throated sparrows.

If corn is used, they will attract doves, grackels, house sparrows, jays, juncos, starlings and white-throated sparrows. If set on or near the ground, they will also attract bobwhite quail and ring-necked pheasants.

If peanuts are used, platform and tray feeders will attract cardinals, chickadees, doves, grackles, house finches, jays, juncos, sparrows, starlings and titmice.

Hopper feeders are like boxes with side panels usually of glass or acrylic. The panels are positioned with narrow openings at the base so that small amounts of seed can empty into a feed trough or tray. Of course, there are different sizes available for dispensing small seeds or peanuts.

Metal tube feeders are shaped like round metal cages. Some have perforated sides while others have wire mesh tubes, allowing different sizes of seed to be used. The smallest mesh is appropriate for dispensing Nyjer thistle seed. Those with larger perforations may dispense peanuts. The mesh or perforations allow birds to cling to the tube and eat from the sides. Trays may be attached to catch spilled seed.

The more common tube feeders have solid tubes, often of acrylic, with ports at the base for dispensing seed. Perches for the birds to mount upon are often attached. Trays may also be attached to these to save dropped seed.

Black oil sunflower seeds work very well in tube feeders, and there is very little waste. These attract chickadees, goldfinches, redpolls, nuthatches, pine siskins, titmice and woodpeckers. Add a tray to the bottom of the feeder and you'll also attract cardinals, crossbills, jays, purple finches and sparrows.

A tube feeder and tray with peanuts will attract cardinals, chickadees, doves, grackles, house finches and sparrows, jays, juncos starlings and titmice. Hanging peanut feeders draw chickadees, titmice and woodpeckers.

Nyjer seed feeders draw chickadees, doves, dark-eyed juncos, goldfinches, pine siskins, purple finches, redpolls and various sparrows.

Suet feeders come in many forms, but the most common basic element is the wire to hold a suet cake. Suet is a fat-based product that may also contain seed, peanut butter or insects. The cage is hinged and has a simple latch for locking. The simplest are hung or attached to the sides of other feeders. However, ingenious designers have come up with various improvements. The upside down suet cage is covered with a small roof to protect the cake from rain. Clinging birds hold on to the bottom of the structure and feed. Tail prop suet feeders are designed with woodpeckers in mind. Rather than in a square cake form, the suet can be presented in a log held in place by a round wire holder.

Suet feeders will bring cardinals, chickadees, creepers, kinglets, nuthatches, starlings, thrashers, woodpeckers and wrens. Suet with peanut butter draws bluebirds, cardinals, goldfinches, jays, juncos, kinglets, starlings, thrushes, woodpeckers and wrens.

There is even a suet feeder designed to simulate a tree trunk. Thin cakes consisting of suet and peanut butter are sandwiched between two slabs. This one is particularly attractive to woodpeckers.

Some birds have a sweet,...uh..., beak, so certain feeders are appropriately designed to hold slices of fruit, dollops of jelly or nectar. Bluebirds, cardinals, cedar waxwings, yellow-breasted chats, jays, mockingbirds, orioles, starlings, tanagers, thrashers, thrushes and woodpeckers enjoy fruit. We are all familiar with hummingburd nectar feeders. But nectar made more readily available is appreciated by cardinals, finches, orioles, tanagers, thrushes and woodpeckers.

Bluebirds like small insects like mealworms. Bluebird feeders are designed to hold the mealworms and to provide a protected environment for the birds as they dine.

Placement of your bird feeder is nearly as important as what you put in it. It should be situated where it is easy to view and convenient to fill.

The feeder should be near to trees and shrubs for shelter where they may assess the situation and wait until it is their turn to feed. Evergreens are perfect, providing protection from weather and a hiding place from predators. About 12 or 15 feet distance should be good. A combination of shrubs and trees can provide shelter for a greater number of species.

Hummingbird feeders should be protected from the wind in order to avoid spilling nectar. A shady place will keep the nectar relatively cool.

Birds may not visit your feeder right away. Sometimes it takes awhile for the news to get around. Be patient. But if the birds still don't come, reconsider whether the setting is hospitable.

Though they never ask a crumb from you, come feed the birds. You'll be glad that you do.

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