Let the Lawn Go Gentle: How to Overseed with Wildflowers, Clover, and Herbs for a Living Carpet

 

There was a time when a lawn was not a sterile green rug, shaved weekly into submission, but a soft mingling of grasses, clovers, daisies, and herbs—alive with bees, humming with quiet industry. If you’re weary of feeding and fighting your turf like a stubborn mule, overseeding with flowering plants is the old, wiser way forward. It softens the land, feeds the pollinators, and—if we’re honest—asks less of a man in the August heat.

Here’s how to do it right.

Choose Your Seed Mix with Intent

Not all mixes are created equal. Some are meant for show, others for survival. You’ll want to match your seed to your purpose and your soil.

• Clover (white, crimson, microclover): The backbone of a flowering lawn. Fixes nitrogen, stays low, tolerates mowing, and handles foot traffic like a seasoned farmhand.
• Wildflower mixes: Best for a more naturalized look. Choose “low-growing” or “lawn-friendly” blends unless you’re ready to let things grow tall and free.
• Herb mixes (thyme, chamomile, self-heal): Fragrant, subtle, and often surprisingly tough. These give a lawn character.
• Pollinator blends: A mix of clover, low flowers, and herbs—good compromise between beauty and practicality.

Be skeptical of flashy packaging. Look for mixes suited to your region (in your case, the Southeast), and favor perennial-heavy blends unless you enjoy reseeding every year.

Time It Like a Farmer, Not a Tourist

Overseeding is not a casual affair. Timing matters.

• Best window: Early fall or early spring
• Why: Cooler temperatures, better moisture, less competition from aggressive summer grasses

Fall is usually the better bet—warm soil, cool air, and fewer weeds trying to elbow their way in.

Prepare the Lawn (Without Overthinking It)

You don’t need to tear up the whole yard like you’re planting cotton. Overseeding is a lighter touch.

1. Mow low – Cut your existing grass shorter than usual (but not to bare dirt). This lets sunlight reach the seed.
2. Loosen the soil surface – Rake vigorously or use a dethatcher. You want seed-to-soil contact, not seed sitting on a thatch mattress.
3. Optional but wise: Aerate compacted soil. If your ground’s hard as a courthouse step, seeds won’t take hold easily.

This step separates success from disappointment. Seed tossed onto a thick lawn without preparation is bird feed, not planting.

Sow the Seed Evenly

Broadcast your seed like a man sowing wheat—steady and even.

• Use a hand spreader or simply cast by hand for smaller areas
• Mix tiny seeds with sand or compost to help distribute them evenly
• Follow recommended seeding rates, but don’t be stingy—thin sowing leads to patchy results

After spreading, lightly rake again or simply walk over the area to press seeds into the soil.

Water Like You Mean It (At First)

This is where many fail.

• Keep the soil consistently moist for 2–3 weeks
• Light, frequent watering beats deep, occasional soaking during germination
• Once established, most of these plants require far less water than traditional turf

Neglect them early, and they won’t forgive you.

Mow with Restraint

You’re no longer maintaining a golf course.

• Wait until new growth reaches about 3–4 inches before mowing
• Set your mower higher than usual
• Avoid mowing during peak flowering if you want blooms and pollinators

Clover and low herbs tolerate mowing well; taller wildflowers may need selective trimming or simply a change in expectations.

Feed Less, Observe More

Here’s the quiet advantage: you can step back.

• Clover fixes nitrogen—your fertilizer bill drops
• Many flowering plants thrive in modest soils
• Over-fertilizing favors grass, not your new companions

Watch what thrives. The land will tell you what it prefers if you’re patient enough to listen.

Accept a Different Kind of Beauty

This is the part modern sensibilities struggle with.

A flowering lawn is not uniform. It will not behave like a parade ground. It shifts, it changes, it blooms unevenly. Some patches will flourish, others will lag behind.

But in exchange, you get:

• Butterflies drifting like scraps of living paper
• Bees working from dawn to dusk
• A lawn that smells faintly of honey and herbs underfoot

And perhaps most valuable of all—you get out from under the tyranny of perfection.

If you want a lawn that salutes when you pass, keep your monoculture. If you want a piece of land that lives and breathes, overseed it and let it speak for itself.

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How to Sow and Care for a Durable, Pet-Safe Grass & Clover Lawn

 

Photo credit: Earthwise Seed

 

A lawn that can’t handle a dog isn’t much of a lawn.

Between zoomies, worn paths along the fence line, and the occasional “burn spot,” most turfgrass stands no chance. You patch it. You water it. You mutter at it. And still it thins out by midsummer.

That’s where a grass and clover blend earns its keep.

By combining durable turfgrass with hardy clover, you get a lawn that tolerates traffic, repairs itself more quickly, and stays greener with less fuss — all without relying on harsh chemicals.

Let’s walk through how to sow it properly and keep it thriving.

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Why a Grass & Clover Blend Works

Traditional lawns are monocultures — one type of grass, uniform and delicate. Clover changes the equation.

Benefits of a grass and clover mix:

• Improved durability under foot and paw

• Natural nitrogen fixation (clover feeds the soil)

• Better resistance to pet urine damage

• Greener color during heat stress

• Reduced fertilizer needs

Clover roots run differently than grass roots. Together, they knit the soil tighter. Think of it as weaving instead of laying a single thread.

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When to Sow Seed

Timing matters more than brand loyalty.

Best planting windows:

• Early spring (after last hard frost)

• Early fall (cooler soil, less weed pressure)

Ideal soil temperature: 55–75°F

Fall is often superior. Warm soil, cool air, and natural rainfall give seedlings a steady start before summer heat or winter dormancy.

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Preparing the Soil

Shortcuts show later. Do this part well.

1. Mow existing lawn short (if overseeding)

2. Rake thoroughly to expose soil

3. Loosen top ½ inch of soil

4. Remove debris and heavy thatch

If starting fresh:

• Loosen soil 2–4 inches deep

• Level and lightly firm the surface

• Ensure good drainage

A smooth, crumbly seedbed helps small seeds make contact with soil.

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Sowing the Seed

For even coverage:

• Use a broadcast spreader or sow by hand in two directions

• Lightly rake to incorporate seed no deeper than ¼ inch

• Roll or gently press seed into soil

Seed-to-soil contact is critical. Seed sitting on top dries out. Seed buried too deep struggles.

Follow recommended seeding rates on the package — overseeding lightly each season is better than overloading at once.

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Watering After Sowing

This is the delicate stage.

• Keep soil consistently moist (not soaked)

• Water lightly once or twice daily for 10–14 days

• Reduce frequency once seedlings establish

The goal is steady moisture until roots anchor.

After establishment, water deeply but less often. This encourages stronger root systems and greater resilience.

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Mowing & Maintenance

Wait until grass reaches 3–4 inches tall before first mowing.

Set mower height to 3 inches or higher. Taller grass:

• Shades soil

• Reduces weeds

• Handles traffic better

• Protects clover growth

Avoid scalping. Lawns cut too short weaken quickly — especially under dog activity.

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Handling Pet Wear & Urine Spots

Even durable blends have limits.

To minimize urine burn:

• Water high-traffic areas periodically

• Encourage dogs to use a designated area

• Overseed worn paths annually

Clover helps buffer nitrogen concentrations, making damage less severe than in pure grass lawns.

And remember — perfection is overrated. A lawn with life in it will show signs of life.

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Fertilizing & Care

Because clover fixes nitrogen:

• Fertilize lightly, if at all

• Avoid high-nitrogen lawn fertilizers

• Skip broadleaf herbicides (they kill clover)

The point of this blend is balance, not chemical dependence.

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The Result

Done right, a grass and clover lawn feels soft underfoot, holds up under play, and stays green longer through summer heat.

It looks less like a golf course and more like something alive.

And for households with dogs, that’s the difference between frustration and freedom.

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Ready for a Lawn That Can Keep Up?

If your current lawn waves the white flag every time your dog sprints across it, it may be time for something tougher.

Plant a PetLawn™ Dog-Friendly Lawn Mix and build a yard that welcomes both bare feet and muddy paws.

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The Gardener's To-Do List for July

July is upon us. At this time of year, many garden chores are common to all regions of the United States. Here they are, though this is not an exhaustive list.

For all gardens

• Get ready for fall!
• Start flower and vegetable seedlings for transplanting to your fall garden.
• Fertilize when needed. Check for yellowing leaves and slowed growth.
• If using synthetic granular fertilizer, water your garden first, apply fertilizer to moist soil, then water again. This will help to incorporate the amendment into the soil and reduce the risk of fertilizer burn.
• Good garden hygiene is essential for healthy gardens. Remove dead and dying material to the compost bin.
• Add soft-tissue plant clippings to your compost bin.
• Check your irrigation to make sure you are watering wisely and conserving as much as possible. Adjust as needed. This is especially important in arid regions.
• Refresh mulch in your garden beds to conserve water.
• Add compost to your garden beds.
• Turn your compost pile, again.
• Keep a sharp eye out for pests – sucking aphids, chomping beetles, munching larvae, hornworms, and the like. Pick them off and destroy them, if you can find them. Otherwise, opt for targeted organic solutions rather than using indiscriminate chemical applications.
• Water all plants before applying synthetic or organic chemicals to avoid tissue damage. Dry plants are more susceptible to damage.
• Keep your garden tools clean, dry and sharp to lengthen their lifespan and make your work easier.

For vegetable gardens

• Plant vegetable seedlings or starter plants for another round of production before summer ends.
• Keep pruning your vegetable plants. Tomatoes, cucumbers and other trellised plants will produce better crops if suckers are pinched off and unnecessary growth is removed.
• When removing tomato suckers, stick them in quart containers with fresh, moist potting soil. Keep them in the shade. They’ll root and you can transplant to your garden.
• Check your fruiting vegetables, (e.g. okra, tomatoes, eggplants, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins and melons) for fruit. If the plants are developed enough, but not setting enough fruit, they might not be getting sufficient pollination from bees. If you are watering with an overhead sprinkler, this could keep the bees from working. Instead, irrigate with a watering wand at the base of your plants.
• Pick some types of fruiting vegetables before they fully mature to prevent the plants from ceasing production. This is especially true of cucumbers!
• Stake tall plants to prevent wind damage or structural collapse from heavy yields.
• Squirrels, rabbits and groundhogs can dig in your soil, uproot your plants and eat your veggies. Trap and remove them (humanely) or cover your crops with netting.
• Remove spent vegetable plants and compost them.

For flower gardens

• Fertilize your roses, again.
• Stake tall plants to prevent wind damage.
• Deadhead flowers to keep the plants producing.
• If you’ve been deadheading your garden mums, you can stop now. This will allow them to produce more in fall.
• Prune geraniums (i.e. Pelargoniums), stick the cuttings in fresh, moist potting soil and place them in the shade where they can root and be transplanted to your garden or containers.
• Remove spent annuals and compost them.
• Sow seeds of biennials such as Alcea, Bellis, Campanula, Digitalis and Viola now for next year’s bloom.
• Cut and dry flowers and herbs for later use.
• Seeds can be gathered from dried flowers such as Coreopsis, Echinacea and Rudbeckia to be scattered in your little wildflower meadow-ette for future enjoyment.

For lawns

• Keep your lawnmower blades sharp. Dull blades damage grass leaves, enable disease entry, and make your lawn look UGLY!
• Water deeply only once or twice per week. Frequent shallow watering encourages shallow root penetration and causes the plants to need more frequent watering. Add watering days if the lawn looks stressed.
  
• Do your mid-summer fertilizing.
• Watch for fungus diseases. If you can’t identify them, take samples or photos to your nearby Cooperative Extension Office for diagnosis and recommendations.

For shrubs and trees

• Don’t forget to water them DEEPLY during dry spells. This is especially true of newly planted items.
• Watch for borers. If you discover them too late, you should remove the infected plants and burn them to prevent the borers from migrating to other plants.
• Remove and burn dead wood.
• Prune flowering shrubs soon after blooming.

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FAQ: How can I get rid of Poa annua in my lawn?

 

Poa annua - Credit Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0

Poa annua is also known as annual bluegrass. It can be a real pest. Though it is an annual, it re-seeds prolifically and returns to your lawn year after year.

There is no really effective chemical treatment that I know of for killing Poa annua in the lawn. Focus on preventing seed germination. Apply weed pre-emergent in spring and fall. Follow label instructions. Don’t use a chemical that is incompatible with your lawn grass species. The seeds are very tough and persistent, so it might take a few years to get it under control. 

Try to eliminate Poa in non-lawn areas, where possible, with glyphosate application. Also beware of importing seeds into the area on lawnmowers that have been used elsewhere. 

I hope this helps.

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Chop your leaves and leave them there.

Tired of expense and labor?

Are you tired of the expense and labor of bagging leaves and hauling them to the curb? Do burning restrictions prevent you from dispatching them into the air to cause the crisis du jour? Use your lawn mower to chop your leaves into teeny-tiny pieces, and leave them there. The particles will eventually settle into the grass and compost themselves. It's the easiest way to prepare your yard for the winter and feed it, too.

How to do it

There are a couple of ways to go about it. It begins with a good lawn mower. You can use a “mulching mower” that has no side-discharge port, or a mower fitted with a “high-lift” mulching blade and a side-discharge plug. (I prefer the later; it leaves more options.) The plug keeps the chopped leaves and grass blades under the mower deck for further chopping. For best results, mow the length of the lawn, then mow a second time across the width of the space. For this to work properly, the grass must be relatively short – no more than 3 inches – and dry. The leaves may be moist, but not wet. If wet, the particles will stick to the underside of the deck, clogging up the works. Crank up the engine to high, and let ‘er rip.

The other way is to mow the lawn with your side-discharge mower, fitted with a mulching blade, in a pattern that will allow you to re-cut the discharged particles from the previous pass. Mowing in concentric circles can be very effective. This is a better method if your grass is longer, or the lawn is a little too wet. (Keep in mind, however, that mowing wet grass is never a good idea.) Just keep mowing until the leaves have all but disappeared.

About that mower

Here are my personal thoughts about the mower. It matters not whether you have a riding mower or a push-mower. The principles are the same. If you only need a small mower, I suggest using a lightweight machine with a 22-inch deck, and without the self-propelling mechanism. Self-propelling mowers are heavier and have more parts to break, so are more expensive to maintain. I’d rather have a lightweight mower with the power of a Chevy V-8, but that’s not possible.

Self-propelled mowers can be useful, though, particularly if the lawn is sloped, or your physical ability prevents you from pushing. I recommend those with rear-wheel drives. Honda and Kohler engines are my favorites.

When you've finished

When you’ve finished mowing, apply a “winter-blend” fertilizer. It should have a chemical analysis like 24-3-12, 32-0-10, or 26-2-12. The numbers indicate the parts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, in that order. It’s important that the potassium content is high, for it promotes winter-hardiness and root growth.

Want more to do?

You can bag your clippings and haul them off, but that defeats the purpose of mulching the leaves. But, if you insist, put them in your compost pile. You can also apply them as a thick mulch in your vegetable garden to prevent weeds. So long as your lawn isn’t full of weeds to begin with, the thick mulch shouldn’t add to your garden’s weed problem.

Bagging works best when the grass is of normal height and dry. Dump the clippings onto a small tarp and drag them off to your preferred location.

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FAQ: "...to neutralize dog urine?"

Image of a dog

Q. Would you recommend I flush the ground really well (although we've had tons of rain) or amend the soil in some way before planting to neutralize dog urine? 

 

A. Flushing usually works, but you could remove the top inch or so of soil in affected areas. Replace with some potting soil, mixing it in with native soil. Then plant on that. It would also be a good idea to take a soil sample to your Cooperative Extension Service for analysis.

Dear reader, if you've had this problem and come up with a good solution, we'd like to hear about it. Let us know in the comment section.

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Looks like you've got armadillos.

Q. Something is digging holes in my yard. Here are some pictures of the holes. What do you think is doing it? How can I stop it? BTW, I live in south Georgia.

Armadillo burrow

Armadillo damage

Looks to me like you have armadillos in your yard. The deep hole looks like a burrow. The shallow dig probably resulted from an armadillo scratching around for food.

Credit: Rebecca Wallace, University of Georgia

Armadillos (Dasypus novemcinctus) inhabit all of the Gulf Coast states, parts of Oklahoma, Arkansas, Missouri, south and central Georgia. They migrated from north or south of the border down Mexico way. They eat insects, larvae, earthworms, spiders, small reptiles and eggs. Some folks report armadillos robbing eggs from chicken houses. They damage lawns and gardens rooting for food or digging their burrows.

Armadillos may also be infected with the bacterium - Mycobacterium leprae - that causes Hansen's disease, commonly known as leprosy. I believe humans and armadillos are the only warm-blooded carriers.

The U.S. Department of Health and Human Services reports that armadillos can communicate leprosy to humans, primarily through physical interaction. But since bacterium can ride on water vapor, it stands to reason that the disease could be communicated without physical contact. Por ejemplo, don't let an armadillo sneeze on you.

I'm guessing you don't want armadillos around your house. There are various methods including repelling, excluding, trapping, shooting, site modifying and eliminating the food source.

Repellents might or might not work. I've heard of scattering mothballs where they root or dig. Even if it worked, it would take a lot of mothballs to keep them out of your yard, and the smell would repel you, too.

If you have a fenced yard, a good dog might keep them away. Several years ago my dog trapped an armadillo in a roll of fencing. It was driving him crazy that he couldn't get at it. His craziness was driving me crazy, so I called off the dog and let the armadillo run.

Some people have tried fencing them out, but armadillos dig. The bottom of the fence would have to be buried sufficiently, which could prove costly.

Various humane traps are available for all sorts of animal pests. I'm not promoting any particular brand, but "have a heart" comes to mind.

So far as I know, armadillos are unprotected in all states, which means it's always armadillo hunting season. You might dispatch them with a decent pellet gun or .22 caliber rifle. But you must check your state and local ordinances before shooting them.

Shooting armadillos is complicated by the fact that they are most active from sunset to sunrise. Even if it's legal to hunt them around your property, rifle fire during the night might raise suspicion and attract a visitor from law enforcement.

Armadillos like to dig burrows under shrubs, as seen in your  photo. You could remove your shrubs, but that doesn't seem attractive.

You could remove their food sources by applying a lawn insecticide, but I don't like the idea. Broad spectrum insecticides eliminate good and bad insects alike.

One might argue that armadillos inhabit a useful niche in our eco-system since they help to keep pests in check. But then we have to balance that reality with holes in the yard and, of course, the unknown potential for leprosy.

UPDATE: Following a comment below, I posted a reply with link to a capture and release ELSEWHERE program. Here's the link to Translocation of nine-banded armadillos.

UPDATE: Here's an important quote from the Translocation of nine-banded armadillos article. "In conclusion, we recommend against translocating nuisance armadillos in most cases. First, translocated animals are unlikely to remain at their release site and will likely transfer the problem elsewhere, increase the risk of the spreading disease, and increase mortality rates because of translocated animals. Second, resident armadillos are highly dispersive and will likely quickly fill vacated territories formerly occupied by translocated animals. In addition, negative ecological impacts of additional armadillos in an area should be considered. Armadillos pose a threat to a number of native fauna, including several rare or endangered reptiles (Layne 1997), soil invertebrates (Carr 1982), marine turtles, gopher tortoises (Gopherus polyphemus; Drennen et al. 1989), and ground-nesting birds, such as northern bobwhite (Staller et al. 2005). If shooting is not a desired or practical management option for removing nuisance armadillos within certain localities, they should be trapped and humanely euthanized. It is important to remember, however, that until there is a more permanent solution to keeping armadillos away from areas where they are unwanted, whatever removal techniques landowners choose to use will likely need to be continuously applied." (Emphases are mine.)


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This Homeowner Has Uneven Soil Moisture Issues

Q. One section of our lawn gets dry sooner than others. We run the sprinkler system the same length of time in each section. The sprinklers in the dry area also water another area that doesn't dry out, so we can't really run them longer without getting the other area too wet. Help!

A. You should figure out why the area in question dries so soon. The reason might include any of the following:

• The grade of the lawn is higher in the dry area than in the others, so the water is draining away;
• The soil type is sandier in the dry area than in the others, so the water perks down sooner;
• The sprinkler heads in the dry area are not covering it properly;
• The sprinkler heads in the dry area are not delivering enough water;
• The sprinkler heads are spaced too far apart.

The simplest thing will be for you to place several empty cans of the same size around your lawn, especially within that irrigation zone. Run the irrigation for the normal period of time, then measure the water in the cans. This will indicate whether enough water is being distributed, and whether it is being distributed evenly. If the dry area is receiving less water, try replacing the existing nozzles with larger ones. If your water pressure is insufficient to support larger nozzles, replace the nozzles in adjacent normal areas with smaller ones, and run that zone a little longer.

Changing nozzles is not difficult, but it may require some inexpensive, specialized tools. If you can't do it yourself, or you simply don't want to be bothered, find a competent lawn irrigation specialist.

If the problem is due to grade or soil type, know that the grade can be changed or the soil can be amended. If the sprinkler heads are spaced too far apart, you may need to have additional heads installed. A well-respected landscape specialist should be able to help you.

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How To Choose A Lawn Service Company

Q. I'm thinking about using a new lawn service company in town. Do you have any advice?

A. Yes, I do. Here are some thoughts in no particular order.

• Have you been quoted the lowest price in town? Maybe the owner doesn't know how to price the services. Give the company a chance. Try it out on a month-to-month basis. Don't sign a long-term contract. If you're not satisfied, discuss it with the owner. Don't expect blue-ribbon service if you're only paying for "mow, blow and go." You should get service commensurate for what you pay. If you get big promises and unsatisfactory service at any price, forget about it. That business won't be around for long.

• Is the company advertised as "licensed and insured"? It could mean he only has a driver's license and required liability insurance on the truck. Ask questions. Request documents.

• Does the company offer pesticide control? It should be licensed by your state. Check to make sure. Ask for documents.

• Are the company employees trustworthy? Illegality is a big issue, but time will tell. The burden of proof shouldn't be on your shoulders.
   
• Is the lawn service company owned by an established garden center or franchise? Establishment is a good thing, but is no guarantee.  Ask friends and acquaintances if they've had experiences with the service. Check reviews online, but be suspicious. Competitors sometimes post bad reviews.
   
• Does the company advertise "organic" and/or "sustainable" lawn care practices? Double-check that. Those words are way overused. Does the company mow your grass with scythes? Ask for details.

• Do you know who to call for a quick response? Make friends with the business owner. If you can't call someone any time day or night (like when your irrigation system has been cut and looks like a geyser in the middle of the night) and get a response pretty soon, you should find another lawn service company.

• Once you've made a wise choice, be fair. Don't short-change the lawn service company.

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Trees Can Be Weeds.

Q. I want a nice lawn, but it's hard to grow grass in my back yard. The landscape service manager says there is too much shade and I should let him cut down some trees. He says some aren't worth keeping, but I love my trees. What do you think?

A. Apparently, if you want a turf grass lawn, you're going to have to remove some trees. Your case reminds me of a friend who retired from his law practice in Paris, France to rural southeast Georgia. He thought Paris had too few trees. His new home landscape was full of trees, mostly longleaf pines (Pinus palustris), water oaks (Quercus nigra) and black cherries (Prunus serotina). Many of the oaks and cherries were diseased and malformed. I tried in vain to convince him that some of those oaks and cherries were weeds regardless of size and age, and they needed to go. "They're magnificent," he exclaimed.

I'd like to convince you, too. According to Merriam-Webster.com, a weed is "a plant that is not valued where it is growing and is usually of vigorous growth; especially: one that tends to overgrow or choke out more desirable plants." Size and age doesn't matter. Perhaps you should consider removing your big weed trees. If in doubt, get a couple of opinions from experts who can personally examine your situation.

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I have these holes in the yard. Let me know what you think.

Q. I recently put some sand down and now I have these holes in the yard. They may have been there all along, but I have never noticed them until I put the sand in.  There was several holes in the yard where the previous owner had a large homemade swing set and play area and when they were removed it left holes, so I filled them and had lots of sand left over so I spread it around the yard. Please review and let me know what you think.

A. With holes that size (larger than a quarter), I'm thinking you could have voles. They're like tiny moles, but they don't make visible tunnels under the grass like moles do. There are products available made of castor oil that repel voles. Voles don't like castor oil any better than children do, so they run away. The oil mixture is usually mixed with water and sprayed on the affected area. The oil doesn't persist in the soil. It's usually washed away after rain or irrigation. But the castor oil mix is safe for children and pets that might play in the yard.

There are other products available that contain Warfarin. Warfarin is an anti-coagulant and very toxic. Added to some sort of bait, the voles ingest it and hemorrhage. Not only will it kill voles, but moles, gophers, woodchucks, rats, mice and squirrels. Obviously, it's also toxic to children and pets, so you should use extreme caution.

If neither of the options I've mentioned appeals to you, purchase a classic spring-loaded mouse trap. Bait it with apple bits or peanut butter. Set it near the vole holes. Go away for awhile and wait.

Always follow label instructions for repellants and poisons. Watch your fingers around the trap. Wear latex gloves to dispose of dead voles.

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FAQ: What gardening tasks should I be doing in July?

Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for July organized by region.

Northeast States: Plant container-grown perennials, potted roses. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Divide spring-blooming bulbs. Sow warm-season and cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Lightly fertilize perennials. Continue rose care. Fertilize shrubs, annuals and container gardens every 10 to 14 days. Mulch trees and shrubs to conserve moisture. Mow lawn regularly. Order bulbs for fall planting.

Mid-Atlantic States: Continue planting trees and shrubs and container gardens. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Divide spring-blooming bulbs. Sow warm-season and cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Continue rose care. Mulch trees and shrubs to conserve moisture. Fertilize shrubs, annuals and container gardens every 10 to 14 days. Mulch trees and shrubs to conserve moisture. Mow lawn regularly. Prune shade trees to remove damaged limbs. Order bulbs for fall planting.

Mid-South States: Continue pruning spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Continue to divide and transplant perennials. Continue to plant container gardens. Remove spent vegetables from the garden and sow or transplant warm season vegetables with short maturities. Pinch planted mums to delay bloom. Lightly fertilize camellias, azaleas, annuals, container gardens, summer bulbs, fruit trees. Spray fruit trees with insecticide and fungicide. Continue rose care. Sow cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Order bulbs for fall planting.

Lower South and Gulf States: Continue pruning spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Continue to divide and transplant perennials. Continue to plant container gardens. Remove spent vegetables from the garden and sow or transplant warm season vegetables with short maturities. Pinch planted mums to delay bloom. Lightly fertilize camellias, azaleas, annuals, container gardens, summer bulbs, fruit trees. Spray fruit trees with insecticide and fungicide. Continue rose care. Sow cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Dead-head crape myrtles to lengthen the bloom season. Order bulbs for fall planting.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Plant container-grown trees and shrubs, perennials, ground covers, annuals, roses. Sow warm-seasons and cool-season vegetable seeds. Divide spring bulbs and perennials. Lightly fertilize trees, shrubs, container gardens, vegetables and herbs, house plants. Continue rose care. Lightly prune trees and shrubs. Add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Order bulbs for fall planting.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Replace spent warm season annuals, vegetables and herbs. Start cool-season vegetables for your fall garden. Divide perennials. Deadhead perennials and annuals when blooming is over. Fertilize trees, shrubs, container gardens, vegetables and herbs, house plants. Continue rose care. Add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Order bulbs for fall planting.

Pacific Northwest States: Plant container-grown trees and shrubs, perennials, ground covers, annuals, roses. Sow warm-seasons and cool-season vegetable seeds. Divide spring bulbs and perennials. Lightly fertilize trees, shrubs, container gardens, vegetables and herbs, house plants. Continue rose care. Lightly prune trees and shrubs. Add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Order bulbs for fall planting.

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FAQ: What garden tasks should I be doing in May?

Gardening is a continuous process of sowing, transplanting, dividing, pruning, fertilizing, irrigating, protecting, mulching, mowing, weeding, composting and fixing things.

Here are a few gardening tasks for May organized by region.

Northeast States: It's still possible to have late frost. Plant bare-root perennials, trees, shrubs. Continue planting and transplanting cold-hardy plants outdoors. Sow or transplant warm-season vegetables and herbs, but be ready to protect them from cold. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided. Prune shrubs and trees. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials as they emerge. Continue spring cleanup. Begin watering if the season is dry.

Mid-Atlantic States: It's still possible to have late frost. Plant bare-root and container-grown perennials, potted roses, cool-season vegetable sets, annuals and strawberries in outdoor beds. Sow warm-season vegetables and herbs outdoors. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Prune trees, summer- and fall-blooming shrubs. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials. Continue rose care. Fertilize shrubs, annuals and container gardens every 10 to 14 days. Mulch trees and shrubs to conserve moisture. Mow lawn regularly.

Mid-South States: Frost is still possible. Continue planting trees and shrubs and container gardens. Sow vegetable and herb seeds in the garden. Transplant vegetable and herbs outdoors. Finish pruning spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Continue to remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Lightly fertilize annuals and vegetable seedlings. Fertilize spring bulbs when flowering is complete. Continue spraying fruit trees. Apply mulch to newly planted plants. Continue rose care. Install sod. Mow lawn regularly.

Lower South and Gulf States: Continue to plant container-grown trees and shrubs. Continue to divide and transplant perennials. Continue to plant container gardens. Sow warm-season annuals, vegetables and herbs. Transplant warm-season vegetable and herb seedlings. Shear spring-blooming trees and shrubs now that flowering is complete. Shear conifers and evergreen shrubs. Pinch planted mums to delay bloom. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize camellias, azaleas, annuals, container gardens, summer bulbs, fruit trees. Spray fruit trees with insecticide and fungicide. Continue rose care. Plant warm-season grass seed and install sod if you can irrigate regularly.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: It's still possible to have late frost. If you have flats of growing warm-season annuals and vegetables, transplant them into larger containers. Transplant summer bulbs from containers to the garden. Continue planting and transplanting cold-hardy plants outdoors. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided. Prune shrubs and trees. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials as they emerge. Complete spring cleanup, if you haven't already. Continue rose care. Thin vegetables in the garden.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Continue planting trees, shrubs, summer bulbs, annuals and vegetable sets. Divide summer- and fall-blooming perennials. Sow vegetable, annual and herb seeds. Shear conifers. Prune spring-flowering trees and shrubs since bloom is complete. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize azaleas, camellias, summer bulbs, vegetables, fruit trees, annuals, container gardens (including house plants). Continue rose care. Sow grass seed or install sod. Continue lawn care.

Pacific Northwest States: It's still possible to have late frost. Plant shrubs, trees, summer bulbs. Plant annuals, warm-season vegetables and herb sets, and sow warm-season annuals, vegetables and herb seeds, but be prepared to protect if late frost arrives. Divide crowded perennials. Shear evergreen shrubs and conifers. Prune spring-flowering plants when bloom is complete. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize azaleas, camellias when bloom is complete. Fertilize fruit trees, container gardens, annuals, vegetables and herbs. Continue rose care. Mulch trees, shrubs and vegetables.

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Garden Tasks For April

Among the most frequently asked questions, "When should I...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for April organized by region.

Northeast States: Frost danger continues. If you haven't begun sowing flats of warm-season annuals and vegetables indoors, get started. If you already have flats of growing warm-season annuals and vegetables, it might be time to transplant them into larger containers. Plant summer bulbs in containers indoors for putting out later. Begin planting and transplanting cold-hardy plants outdoors. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided. Prune shrubs and trees. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials as they emerge. Begin spring cleanup, if you haven't already. Check irrigation and make necessary repairs. Prepare planting beds.

Mid-Atlantic States: Frost danger continues. Finish sowing annuals, vegetables and herb seeds in flats indoors. Plant summer bulbs in containers indoors for putting out later. Plant bare-root perennials, potted roses, cool-season vegetable sets, annuals and strawberries in outdoor beds. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Sow cool-season vegetable and herb seeds outdoors. Prune trees, summer- and fall-blooming shrubs. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials as they emerge. Remove winter mulches. Begin rose care. Construct trellises for climbing vegetables and vines, set tomato stakes.

Mid-South States: Frost is still possible. Plant trees and shrubs. Plant summer bulbs, divide and transplant perennials. Plant container gardens. Sow vegetable and herb seeds in the garden. Transplant vegetable and herbs outdoors. Pinch runners from strawberry plants. Prune spring-blooming trees and shrubs when flowering is completed. Continue to remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Lightly fertilize annuals and vegetable seedlings. Fertilize spring bulbs when flowering is complete. Begin spraying fruit trees with dormant oil. Apply mulch to newly planted plants. Continue rose care. Install sod. Fertilize lawn when spring green-up occurs.

Lower South and Gulf States: Continue to plant container-grown trees and shrubs. Plant summer bulbs. Continue to divide and transplant perennials. Continue to plant container gardens. Sow warm-season annuals, vegetables and herbs. Transplant warm-season vegetable and herb seedlings. Shear spring-blooming trees and shrubs when flowering is complete. Shear conifers and evergreen shrubs. Pinch planted mums to delay bloom. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize camellias, azaleas, annuals, container gardens, summer bulbs, fruit trees. Spray fruit trees with insecticide and fungicide. Thin excess fruit from fruit trees. Continue rose care. Plant warm-season grass seed and install sod.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Frost is still possible. If you haven't begun sowing flats of warm-season annuals and vegetables indoors, get started. If you already have flats of growing warm-season annuals and vegetables, it might be time to transplant them into larger containers. Plant summer bulbs in containers indoors for putting out later. Begin planting and transplanting cold-hardy plants outdoors. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided. Prune shrubs and trees. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials as they emerge. Begin spring cleanup, if you haven't already. Check irrigation and make necessary repairs. Prepare planting beds. Remove winter mulches. Begin rose care. Construct trellises for climbing vegetables and vines, set tomato stakes. Mulch newly planted trees and shrubs.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Plant trees, shrubs, summer bulbs, annuals and vegetable sets. Divide summer- and fall-blooming perennials. Sow vegetable, annual and herb seeds. Shear conifers. Prune spring-flowering trees and shrubs when bloom is complete. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize azaleas, camellias, summer bulbs, vegetables, fruit trees, annuals, container gardens (including house plants). Continue rose care. Sow grass seed or install sod. Continue lawn care.

Pacific Northwest States: Frost danger continues. Plant shrubs, trees, summer bulbs. Construct trellises for climbing vegetables and vines, set tomato stakes. Plant annuals, warm-season vegetables and herb sets, and sow warm-season annuals, vegetables and herb seeds after last frost. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Divide crowded perennials. Shear evergreen shrubs and conifers. Prune spring-flowering plants when bloom is complete. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize azaleas, camellias when bloom is complete. Fertilize fruit trees, container gardens, annuals, vegetables and herbs. Continue rose care. Mulch trees, shrubs and vegetables.

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FAQ: What's wrong with my centipede lawn?

(I visited the site and took a soil sample to the local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing.)

Your lawn problems are related to shade, mowing height, soil pH, phosphorus and potassium levels, fertilizer, irrigation and soil erosion on the slope. In addition, tree roots are surfacing in the front yard. Sod will not grow over the visible roots.

Centipede grass does best in full sun. Most of your front lawn is shaded. There is nothing that can be done about the shade.

Your grass is cut too short. Centipede grass should normally be cut at a mowing height of 1-1/2" to 2", but due to the shade (lack of available light) the mowing height should be increased to 2-1/2". This provides more leaf surface and allows the sod to make the best use of available light.

Soil pH is too low (4.3). Raise it by applying dolomite (pelletized lime) at a rate of 55 pounds per 1000 square feet.

Phosphorus and potassium levels are too high. Centipede is very sensitive to high phosphorus levels. There is nothing that can be done to reduce the phosphorus and potassium levels. Time will take care of it. Do not use fertilizer containing phosphorus or potassium.

Apply 1-1/2 pounds of 34-0-0 or 1 pound of 46-0-0 fertilizer per 1000 square feet after spring green-up and again in mid-summer. Irrigate immediately after fertilizer application. Irrigate during dry weather to avoid stress.

There is nothing that can be done about the visible tree roots, though some soil could be added to repair eroded areas. If soil is added in the spring, sow annual rye grass to help prevent further erosion.

There are alternatives to maintaining a centipede lawn in difficult circumstances.

The first alternative would be to have the front lawn sodded with St. Augustine grass. St. Augustine is more shade tolerant. Sod roots should be in full contact with soil, so sod should not be put down over surfacing tree roots.

Another alternative would be to grow a more shade tolerant ground cover instead of sod. Trachelospermum asiaticum (Asiatic jasmine), Glechoma hederacea (Creeping Charlie), Ophiopogon japonicus (Mondo) and Herniaria glabra (Rupturewort) would be good choices. Alternative ground covers should be prevented from growing into neighbors' lawns.

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Put Your Garden To Bed And You'll Rest Better, Too.

When fall arrives, many gardeners are tempted to put off until spring what they should do today. Yield not to temptation. Necessary chores completed in a timely fashion will save time and labor, and give you a sense of satisfaction.  In other words, put your garden to bed and you'll rest better, too.

Before you begin your winter hibernation, complete these garden tasks:

Tidy up. Dead plants and garden debris provide shelter for insect pests and the four-footed varieties. Not only that, decaying plants also harbor fungi and plant diseases. But don't carry the debris street-side for trash collectors; compost it. Composting turns it into rich, organic material for next year's garden.
Most of us have childhood memories of Saturday afternoons raking up large piles of fallen foliage and jumping into them. Then the leaves were raked again and carted off to the curb. But there are better alternatives. If you insist upon a well-groomed lawn, collect the leaves and compost them. However, I prefer leaving them on the lawn and chopping them to bits with my lawnmower. A mulching attachment will reduce them to pieces small enough that they will filter into the grass, self-compost, and add to the organic content of your lawn. In fact, a mulching mower used all year long will return grass clippings to the lawn with the same result.

Prune. Pruning includes dead-heading your perennials. When bloom-time is over, many plants become unsightly. Dead-heading will improve the appearance of your garden and remove unwanted seeds. Furthermore, you will be making room for new spring growth, especially if you have interplanted with spring-blooming flower bulbs. If pruning trees or shrubs in autumn, only remove dead or dying tissue. Heavy pruning may stimulate new growth at a time when you need it least. New growth late in the year can be severely damaged by cold and compromise the health of your plants.

Fertilize. Fall fertilizing is done for different reasons than spring fertilizing. In spring, the object is to stimulate new top growth for lush foliage and abundant bloom. Fall fertilizing, however, is to stimulate root growth. Plants must have a good foundation to build upon next spring. Whether fertilizing lawn, garden, shrubs or trees, the purpose is the same. Fertilizers for fall application are formulated differently than those for spring. Nitrogen (N) content will be lower or in a slow-release form. Phosphorus (P) and potash (K) will be at relatively higher levels. When reading fertilizer formulations, know that the order is N-P-K. In addition to granular fertilizers, other organic additions may include compost and bone meal.

Plant flower bulbs. Many of us think of planting fall bulbs when we see crocuses, daffodils and tulips popping up in the spring. Too late! Fall is the time to plant those, so don't delay. It's best to plan your spring-flowering bulb purchases in July, order in August or September, and plant in September or October. But planting in October or November is still not too late. Be sure to buy high-quality bulbs in larger sizes. Larger bulbs produce more flowers sooner. Typically, discounters and big box stores carry smaller bulbs because they want to offer the lowest prices. You get what you pay for. Sometimes you don't even get what you pay for, so buy from a reputable source.

By the arrival of spring, gardeners can't wait to get into their gardens. What a disappointment to be faced with garden chores from fall still waiting. Get into your garden now while the air is clear and the temperature brisk. You'll enjoy it, feel better having done it, and your garden will be in better condition come spring.

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Lawn Grass Substitutes

Mondo - Ophiopogon - lawn

For some homeowners, lawn work is therapeutic and the end result is a matter of pride.  Others consider it to be necessary, but time-consuming and an unwelcome expense.  Some folks think lawns are ecologically unfriendly, requiring chemical applications and too much water.  The fact is that lawns can be all of that, more or less.  It depends on your perspective.  But this guide is not intended to argue the virtues and vices of grass.  The purpose is to stimulate your thinking about options and to inform you of various plant alternatives to the typical lawn.

What practical purposes do lawns serve?

• Lawns prevent wind and water erosion.
• Lawns moderate soil and air temperatures.
• Lawns suppress growth of undesirable plants.
• Lawns create buffers.
• Lawns allow visibility.
• Lawns provide resilient living surfaces for outdoor activities.

Grass does all of these so well.

When thinking about alternatives, you should consider which of these purposes you need to satisfy, then determine whether anything else will work so well for you as grass.

As with any landscape plan, you'll need to assess your circumstances and choose your plants accordingly.  Consider your maximum and minimum seasonal temperatures, exposure to sun or shade, available water, slope, soil characteristics.

Almost any low-growing plant will help to prevent erosion, moderate temperatures, suppress weeds, create buffers and allow for visibility.  But fewer accommodate foot traffic in outdoor living spaces as well as grass.  Even grass has its limits.

The following plants tolerate some foot traffic, especially if planted around flag stones or pavers, and are easy to step over.  Some are drought-tolerant.  The list is not exhaustive.  The descriptions are very brief.

Acaena inermis.  Also known as New Zealand Bur.  Best varieties are 'Purpurea' and 'Blue Haze'.  Evergreen foliage of 'Purpurea' turns red in full sun.  Foliage of 'Blue Haze is blue-gray color.  Creamy white flowers in early summer.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 6-9.  Grows to 6" in height.  Drought tolerant.  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Acinos alpinus.  Also known as Alpine Calamint or Alpine Catmint.  Pinkish purple flower from spring to fall.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 5-10.  Height approx. 6".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Ajuga reptans.  Also known as Carpet Bugleweed.  Bronze to variegated foliage.  Blue flowers on short spikes in spring.  Full sun to full shade.  USDA climate zones 3-9.  Well-drained soil.  Drought-tolerant.  Best varieties include 'Burgundy Glow' (3" to 4"), 'Chocolate Chip' (2" to 4"), 'Gaiety'/'Bronze Improved' (3" to 4").  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Arenaria balearica.  Also known as Mossy Sandwort.  Evergreen foliage.  White blooms in spring.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-11.  Grows to under 6" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Chrysogonum virginianum 'Pierre'.  Also known as Green and Gold.  Yellow flowers over green foliage.  Full sun to partial shade.  USDA climate zones 5-9.  Moist soil.  Grows 4" to 6" in height.  Low tolerance for foot traffic.


Cymbalaria aequitriloba.  Also known as Kenilworth Ivy.  Evergreen foliage.  White to purple flowers in spring to summer.  Light shade to full shade in USDA climate zones 7-10.  Drought tolerant.  Grows to 6".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Euonymus fortunei 'Kewensis'.  Glossy green foliage only 1/4" to 5/8".  Full sun to full shade.  Drought-tolerant.  USDA climte zones 4-9.  Grows to 3".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Ficus pumila.  Also known as Creeping Fig.  Green or variegated foliage.  Can climb.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 8b-10.  Grows from 1/2" to 1 1/2" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Glechoma hederacea 'Variegata'.  Also known as Variegated Ground Ivy or Variegated Creeping Charlie.  Blue flowers spring to summer.  Full sun to full shade in USDA climate zones 3-9.  Grows to under 3".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Herniaria glabra.  Also known as Green Carpet.  'Sea Foam' is a good variety.  Evergreen green or variegated leaves turn red in winter.  White flower.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 6-9 (some gardeners report success in zones 5 - 11).  Grows to 3".  High tolerance for foot traffic.

Houstonia caerulea.  Also known as Bluets.  Light blue flowers from spring to fall.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 3-8.  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Hydrocotyle sibthorpioides.  Also known as Pennywort.  Small white flowers in summer.  Requires moist soil.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 8-10.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Laurentia (Isotoma) fluviatilis.  Also known as Blue Star Creeper.  Blue flowers in spring.  Evergreen to semi-evergreen foliage.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 5b to 10.  Grows to 3".  High tolerance for foot traffic.

Leptinella gruveri.  Also known as Brass Buttons.  The hybrid 'Platt's Black' is very beautiful.  Small yellow flowers in summer.  Forms dense evergreen carpet.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 8-10.  High tolerance for foot traffic.

Lotus corniculatus.  Also known as Bird Foot Trefoil.  Dense dark green mat.  Orange buds and yellow flowers from spring to fall.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 3-9.  Grows to 4".  High tolerance for foot traffic.

Lysimachia nummularia 'Aurea'.  Also known as Golden Creeping Jenny.  Low, mat-forming plant with gold leaves and yellow flowers.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 3-10.  Grows to 3".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Mazus reptans.  Blue or white flowers in spring.  Fast-spreading.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 2" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Muehlenbeckia axillaris.  Also known as Creeping Wire Vine or Maidenhair Vine.  Low, mat-forming plant.  Small white flowers in summer.  Full sun to full shade in USDA climate zones 5-10.  Drought-tolerant.  Grows to 4".  High tolerance for foot traffic.

Ophiopogon japonicus 'Nana'.  Also known as Dwarf Mondo Grass.  Evergreen, dark leaf blades 1/8" wide.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun to full shade in USDA climate zones 6-10.  Grows to 3".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Phlox subulata.  Also known as Thrift or Creeping Phlox.  Pink, red, white, lavender flowers in early spring.  Tolerates drought and wide range of soil conditions.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 3-9.  Grows 4" to 6" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Potentilla neumanniana 'Nana'.  Also known as Creeping Cinquefoil.  Dark green leaves.  Evergreen.  Yellow flowers in late spring.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 5-10.  Grows to 3".   High tolerance for foot traffic.

Pratia angulata.  Also known as Star Creeper.  Dark green leaves.  White to blue flowers in spring.  Red fruit in fall.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 6-10.  Grows to 2".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Pratia pendunculata.  Also known as Little Star Creeper.  Syn. Isotoma, Laurentia.  'County Park' and 'Tom Stone' are desirable varieties.  Blue to purple star-shaped flowers from spring to fall.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 7-10.  Grows to under 6".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Rubus calycinoides.  Also known as Creeping Raspberry.  Dark green, puckered foliage.  Evergreen.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 6-10.  Grows to 2".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Sagina subulata.  Also known as Scotch Moss.  Green or gold foliage with small white star-shaped flowers.  Forms low, dense mat.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 3".  High tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum album.  Also known as Baby Tears.  Teardrop-shaped green foliage turns red in fall.  White flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 4".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum acre.  Also known as Gold Moss or Gold Stonecrop.  Soft yellow-green foliage turns red in winter.  Yellow flowers.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 4".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum hispanicum var. minus.  Also known as Blue Moss, Blue Stonecrop or Tiny Buttons.  Soft blue-gray groundcover produces small pink flowers in summer. Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 2-9.  Grows to 4".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum lydium.  Also known as Mossy Stonecrop.  Succulent green leaves turn burgundy-red when stressed by drought or cold.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 5-9.  Grows to 4".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum makinoi 'Ogon'.  Small evergreen foliage gold in color with pink shades.  Yellow-green flowers in spring.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 7-9.  Grows to 2" in height.  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum requieneii.  Also known as Miniature Stonecrop.  Very small green leaves and yellow star-shaped flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to less than 2".  Very durable.  High tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum spurium 'Dragon's Blood'.  Red and green variegated leaves in whorled clusters.  Red flowers in late summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 3-9. Grows to 3".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum spurium 'Fuldaglut'.  Semi-evergreen, bronze fleshy leaves whorled around the stem.  Turns burgundy in fall.  Pink-red flowers in summer.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 3-9.  Grows to 3" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum spurium 'John Creech'.  Semi-evergreen, fleshy foliage.  Pink flowers in early spring.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 3-9.  Grows to 2" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum spurium Tricolor'.  Variegated green, red and white foliage.  Evergreen.  Pink flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 3-9.  Grows to 4" in height.  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum tetractinum.  Also known as Chinese Sedum.  Flat evergreen foliage, light green in color turns reddish in fall.  Yellow flowers in summer.  Drought tolerant.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 3" in height.  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus doerfleri 'Doone Valley'.  Also known as Wild Thyme or Doone Valley Thyme.  Lemon-scented golden variegated foliage is evergreen.  Produces lilac flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 4".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus praecox 'Elfin'.  Also known as Miniature Thyme.  Gray-green foliage forms tight mat.  Light pink flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 5-10.  Grows to under 2".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus praecox 'Pink Chintz'.  Gray-green fragrant foliage is evergreen.  Light pink flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows 1" to 3" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus praecox ' Coccineus'.  Also known as Red Creeping Thyme.  Scented foliage turns bronze in winter.  Red flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 4" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus praecox 'Albiflorus'.  Also known as Wild Thyme or White Creeping Thyme.  Scented evergreen foliage.  White flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 4" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus praecox 'Pseudolanuginosus'.  Also known as Wooly Thyme.  Scented gray foliage is evergreen.  Pink flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 3" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus citriodorus.  Also known as Creeping Lemon Thyme.  Green, lemon-scented foliage is evergreen.  Lilac flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 3" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus citriodorus 'Archer's Gold'.  Also known as 'Archer's Gold' Lemon Thyme or Creeping Lemon Thyme.  Bright gold, lemon-scented foliage is evergreen.  Lilac flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 3" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus x 'Spicy Orange'.  Green, needle-like foliage is fragrant and evergreen.  Pink flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 2" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Trifolium repens 'Atropurpureum'.  Red-bronze evergreen foliage with green margin.  White flowers in spring and summer.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Excellent for erosion control.  Grows to under 6" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Veronica liwanensis.  Also known as Turkish Speedwell.  Evergreen, deep green color.  Blue flowers in summer.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-8.  Grows to under 4" in height.  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Veronica penduncularis 'Georgia Blue'.  Evergreen foliage turns bronze in fall.  Blue flowers in spring.  Drought tolerant.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows 3" to 6".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Veronica repens 'Sunshine.'  Also known as 'Sunshine' Creeping Speedwell.  Yellow green foliage.  Bluish-white flowers in spring to summer.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 6-9.  Drought-tolerant.  Grows to 1" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Veronica surculosa 'Waterperry'.  Also known as 'Waterperry Blue'.  Lustrous semi-evergreen foliage turns bronze in winter.  Blue flowers in spring.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-8.  Grows to under 4".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Veronica x 'New Century'.  Evergreen, deep green color.  Foliage turns bronze in winter.  Blue flowers in summer.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 4".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Viola labradorica.  Also known as Labrador Violet.  Foliage changes color throughout seasons, green-blue-black.  Small lilac flowers from spring to fall.  Partial shade in USDA climate zones 3-8.  Grows to under 4".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

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My lawn used to be beautiful. Now it looks awful. Help!

Photo by Markus Spiske

A Homeowner's Plea: My lawn used to be beautiful. Now it looks awful. A lot of the grass has disappeared. Exposed soil is hard like a brick. Help!

Answer: Common problems include fungus diseases, incorrect pH, poor fertilizing and lawn mowing practices. Your local county extension agent should be able to help you identify fungus, correct pH and suggest better fertilizing. If you're bagging your clippings, stop it. You may be removing topsoil and organic matter. Set your mower to a greater cutting height; 2-1/2 to 3 inches is good for most grasses. Short leaf blades will eventually starve the grass. When mowing your lawn, remember that the most important thing is not how short it's cut, but how evenly it's cut. These are but a few possible factors to consider, but should be a good place for you to start.

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The Not-So-Magical Experience Of Composting

Bette Midler is quoted as saying, "My whole life has been spent waiting for an epiphany, a manifestation of God's presence, the kind of transcendent, magical experience that lets you see your place in the big picture. And that is what I had with my first compost heap."

There comes a time in a gardener's life when she has an "Ah-HAH" moment. A light turns on and she discovers the wonders of compost. Though it is a revelation to her, composting is a great cycle that has continued since life first began: composing, decomposing, and back again. It's part of the plan that even the "Divine Miss M" may not fully know. "Ashes to ashes and dust to dust."

Compost happens, but intentional composting is a planned inducement of the natural process. The gardener collects organic material, stirs it occasionally, and lets native organisms do their work. From a heap of really nasty-looking stuff, nature works as if by magic to produce something wonderful.

But it's not as magical as it seems. Let's take a closer look.

The gathered materials may include grass clippings, shredded paper, discarded fruits and vegetables, egg shells, fallen leaves, shrub trimmings, sawdust, garden weeds, ashes, livestock and poultry manure, even pet poop. Given some water and air, micro-organisms attack the assemblage with voracious appetites. At the same time, chemical processes such as oxidation break down the materials, and the micro-organisms eat that stuff, too. With all this frenetic activity going on, the pile heats.

Like a big bash going on down the street, nearby residents and passersby take notice. Flies breeze by and drop off bacteria. Single-cell creeps with hardly half a brain between them arrive and begin to cling. Fun-guys (fungi) appear from nowhere and make themselves at home. Mites pick at this and that, including other guests. Millipedes stroll and stroll and stroll, sampling a bit of everything. Sowbugs eat stuff mashed on the floor. Snails and slugs, never socially adept, slime their way among the crowd munching left-overs. Spiders entrap and roll the unsuspecting. Centipedes and beetles knock over spiders and other party-goers. Earthworms work their way around, and somehow everything comes out right from their ends.

Books have been written on how to contain and manage this free-for-all. A lot of material is available in book stores, magazines and posted on the internet. Most advocate confining it to boxes or bins hidden from view. Many recommend barrels disguised as BBQ cookers that can be tumbled to mix it up. Still others suggest heaping it up and letting it go, agitating sometimes to keep the party going. It's all good.

A few gardeners, like amateur brew-masters, compost very carefully. They follow recipes, add a touch of this or shovel-full of that, include obscure ingredients, take temperature readings and samples until just the right moment. It's beyond the scope of this article to address all that.

In my opinion, composting is not a transcendent experience; it is, simply, a very good thing to do. Here's why:

• Composting recycles organic materials for further use.
  
• It reduces waste.
  
• Composting takes advantage of readily available materials.
  
• It is environmentally friendly.
  
• It is economical and inexpensive.
  
• It is healthy for you and for your garden.
  
• Composting is educational.
  
• It gives a sense of "the big picture."

There you have it. Let this be your, "Ah-HAH!" moment. GoGardenNow!