Growing Ornamental Alliums: Architectural Flowers for the Spring Garden

 

Few spring-flowering bulbs make quite the statement of ornamental alliums. Their great globes of purple, lavender, pink, white, and occasionally yellow seem to hover above the garden on remarkably straight stems. Some are modest little plants suitable for the front of a border; others produce flower heads the size of softballs—or larger—standing three or four feet above the ground.

Better still, ornamental alliums are generally easy to grow, return year after year when properly situated, attract pollinators, and are usually passed over by deer and rabbits. For a gardener who wants considerable effect without considerable fuss, they earn their keep.

What Are Ornamental Alliums?

Alliums belong to the same genus as onions, garlic, chives, shallots, and leeks. The genus Allium contains hundreds of species native across much of the Northern Hemisphere, with particularly rich diversity in Europe, Asia, the Middle East, and western North America.

The ornamental varieties are grown primarily for their flowers rather than their usefulness in the kitchen. Their family resemblance is nevertheless easy to discover: bruise a leaf or cut into a bulb and the familiar onion or garlic scent usually gives the game away.

The flowers are composed of dozens—or sometimes hundreds—of tiny individual blossoms arranged in rounded umbels. From a distance, the effect is that of a single great ball of flowers.

Why Grow Ornamental Alliums?

Their chief virtue is architectural form. Tulips and daffodils make broad sweeps of spring color, while alliums introduce strong vertical lines and nearly perfect spheres.

They are especially valuable because many varieties bloom during the transition from the main spring bulb season into the early perennial season. Just as the tulips are beginning to bow out, the alliums can take the stage.

Alliums also have several practical virtues. They generally prefer ordinary garden conditions, need little attention once established, provide nectar and pollen for bees and other insects, and their onion-scented foliage and bulbs make them relatively unattractive to browsing deer, rabbits, and many rodents.

Even after flowering, the dried seed heads remain handsome. Left standing among perennials and ornamental grasses, they can provide structure well into summer.

When Should Allium Bulbs Be Planted?

Plant ornamental allium bulbs in autumn, generally from September through November, depending upon your climate.

The important thing is to get them into the ground after the soil has begun to cool but before it freezes hard. They need the winter chilling period to establish roots and prepare for spring growth.

In warmer Southern gardens, there is seldom any reason to rush. October and November are often excellent planting months, and planting may continue into early winter where the ground remains workable.

If bulbs arrive while the weather is still quite warm, keep them cool, dry, and well ventilated until planting time. Do not seal them in plastic where moisture can accumulate.

Choosing the Right Location

The ideal allium site has full sun and excellent drainage.

Most ornamental alliums perform best with six or more hours of direct sunlight each day. A little afternoon shade may be tolerated in hot climates, but deep shade usually produces weaker plants and poorer flowering.

Drainage is more important than rich soil. Allium bulbs dislike sitting in cold, wet earth. Heavy clay that remains waterlogged through winter can cause bulbs to rot.

If your garden has poorly drained soil, amend it with organic matter where appropriate or plant alliums in raised beds or naturally elevated areas. Avoid low spots where winter rain collects.

A well-drained sandy loam is close to ideal.

How Deep Should You Plant Alliums?

A useful old bulb-planting rule works well: plant the bulb about two to three times as deep as the bulb is tall.

Large ornamental allium bulbs are commonly planted about 6 to 8 inches deep, while smaller species may need only 3 to 4 inches.

Place the bulb with the pointed end upward. If you genuinely cannot tell which end is which, plant it on its side. The emerging shoot is quite capable of finding daylight without our assistance.

Space large alliums roughly 6 to 12 inches apart, depending upon the variety and the effect desired. Smaller species can be planted much closer together.

For the best display, resist the temptation to plant solitary bulbs at regular intervals like fence posts. Alliums usually look better planted in groups or loose drifts.

Designing With Alliums

This is where alliums become especially useful.

Large varieties are superb rising through lower-growing perennials. Their stems are sufficiently narrow that they do not create a heavy visual barrier, yet the flower heads appear above neighboring plants like purple punctuation marks.

Try them among catmint, hardy geraniums, salvias, peonies, roses, lamb's ear, daylilies, or ornamental grasses.

Companion planting also solves one of the few aesthetic shortcomings of the large alliums: their foliage often begins to yellow before the flowers have finished blooming.

This is perfectly normal.

Planting alliums among leafy perennials conceals the declining foliage while allowing the flower stalks to rise above it. It is a far better solution than cutting the leaves prematurely.

Don't Cut the Leaves Too Soon

As with daffodils, tulips, and other bulbs, the leaves manufacture and store the energy needed for next year's flowers.

After flowering, allow the foliage to yellow and die naturally before removing it.

The flower heads are another matter. You may cut them after bloom if you prefer a tidy garden, but there is no necessity to do so. Many gardeners deliberately leave the dried globes standing because they remain striking long after their color has faded.

Some are excellent in dried arrangements as well.

Watering and Feeding

Newly planted bulbs should be watered after planting to settle the soil and encourage root development.

Once established, ornamental alliums are fairly drought tolerant. During active spring growth they appreciate reasonable moisture, but constantly wet soil is considerably more dangerous than occasional dryness.

In ordinary fertile garden soil, elaborate feeding programs are unnecessary. A light application of compost or a balanced bulb fertilizer in spring can be useful where soil is poor.

Avoid excessive nitrogen. You are trying to grow flowers, not exceptionally luxurious onion leaves.

Some Alliums Are Giants—and Others Are Not

The word "allium" sometimes brings to mind enormous purple globes, but the genus offers much more variety.

Allium giganteum is among the famous tall types, producing large purple flower heads on imposing stems.

'Globemaster' is celebrated for its enormous violet-purple globes and makes an extraordinary specimen in the perennial border.

'Purple Sensation' is somewhat more restrained and extremely useful for mass planting, producing rich purple spheres in late spring.

'Mount Everest' provides the same strong architectural form in white.

At the other end of the scale are smaller ornamental alliums that work beautifully in rock gardens, along paths, and toward the front of borders. Some naturalize readily and gradually form attractive colonies.

There are even yellow-flowering species, such as Allium moly, which bear cheerful clusters of star-shaped flowers rather than the enormous purple spheres associated with the better-known ornamental hybrids.

Do Alliums Come Back Every Year?

In a suitable climate and well-drained soil, many ornamental alliums are reliable perennials.

Some gradually multiply by producing offsets around the original bulb. After several years, crowded clumps can be lifted and divided when dormant.

Performance varies by species and climate, however. Certain spectacular hybrid alliums may persist for years without spreading aggressively, while smaller species may naturalize with enthusiasm.

Good drainage is usually the difference between an allium that settles down for a long residence and one that quietly disappears.

Deer, Rabbits, and Pollinators

Alliums offer an unusually agreeable combination for the garden.

Bees and other pollinating insects are strongly attracted to the flowers, while deer and rabbits generally dislike the onion-like compounds in the plants.

No plant should be advertised as absolutely deer-proof—deer have been known to revise the gardening books when sufficiently hungry—but alliums are among the better choices for gardens troubled by browsing animals.

This also makes them useful companions for more vulnerable spring bulbs.

Growing Alliums in Containers

Ornamental alliums can also be grown successfully in pots.

Choose a substantial container with excellent drainage and use a free-draining potting mixture. Large varieties need enough soil depth to accommodate their sizeable bulbs and tall stems.

They can be planted alone or incorporated into layered bulb containers with tulips, daffodils, crocuses, or other spring bulbs.

Remember that containers expose bulbs to greater temperature fluctuations than garden soil. In very cold climates, pots may require winter protection.

A Flower With an Old-World Character

There is something both formal and whimsical about ornamental alliums. Their geometry would be perfectly at home in an old European garden, yet those improbable spheres hovering over a perennial border have an almost modern appearance.

That combination is part of their charm.

Plant a few among established perennials and they provide accents. Plant dozens and they create a remarkable spring spectacle. Mix varieties of different heights and flowering times, and the display can continue for weeks.

Most importantly, they ask remarkably little in return: sun, well-drained soil, autumn planting, and enough patience to leave the foliage alone until it has finished its work.

Give them those things, and ornamental alliums will rise each spring like brightly colored globes above the garden—orderly, architectural, and just eccentric enough to keep things interesting.

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Crocuses: Little Heralds of Spring — and Autumn

 

Few flowers accomplish so much with so little. Crocuses rise only a few inches above the earth, yet when their cups of purple, gold, lavender, striped violet, and white begin opening, they can transform the appearance of an entire garden.

For many gardeners, the crocus is the first unmistakable announcement that winter is losing its grip. A patch of crocuses pushing through cold ground — sometimes even through snow — is one of those small events by which gardeners have marked the turning of the year for centuries.

Yet there is more to the genus Crocus than the familiar spring flowers. Some crocuses bloom in autumn, and one of them has been cultivated since antiquity to produce one of the world's most precious spices: saffron.

Where Are Crocuses Native?

Crocuses belong to the iris family, Iridaceae, and grow from corms, rather than true bulbs. A corm is a swollen underground stem that stores the plant's food from one season to the next.

The natural home of Crocus lies largely in the Old World, particularly around the Mediterranean and southeastern Europe and eastward into western and central Asia. Different species are native to different regions.

The familiar spring or Dutch crocus, Crocus vernus, has its origins in the Alps and western Balkans. Crocus chrysanthus, from which many of our small early-flowering yellow and bicolored varieties are derived, is native from southeastern Europe into Türkiye. Other species occur in Greece, the Balkans, Spain, North Africa, Türkiye, Lebanon and neighboring regions.

This helps explain what crocuses generally want in the garden: sunshine, cool winters, moisture while actively growing, and soil that drains freely rather than remaining waterlogged.

Crocuses Have Been Cultivated for a Very Long Time

There isn't really a single person who can be credited with "introducing" the crocus into cultivation.

Humankind's relationship with crocuses reaches back into antiquity, long before modern botanical collecting and commercial bulb growing. The most famous example is the saffron crocus, Crocus sativus, which was already being cultivated thousands of years ago.

The larger spring crocuses familiar in modern gardens were developed through centuries of European cultivation and selection. The species we now call Crocus vernus was formally described botanically in the eighteenth century, but European gardeners knew crocuses long before botanists settled their modern scientific names.

By the nineteenth century, European nurserymen and plant collectors were bringing numerous crocus species into cultivation and selecting forms for larger flowers, stronger colors and better garden performance.

Thus the crocus is both an ancient cultivated plant and a thoroughly modern garden flower.

Spring-Flowering Crocuses

These are the crocuses most gardeners know.

Depending upon climate and variety, they bloom from late winter into early spring. Some of the smaller species and hybrids appear remarkably early.

Among the best-known groups are:

• Crocus vernus and its large-flowered Dutch forms
• Crocus chrysanthus and its hybrids
• Crocus tommasinianus, often affectionately called "Tommies"
• Crocus sieberi
• Crocus angustifolius

The large Dutch crocuses make bold patches of purple, white and striped flowers. The smaller species crocuses are often more delicate but can be particularly charming when allowed to naturalize.

Don't Forget the Autumn Crocuses

Not every crocus waits for spring.

Several true Crocus species flower in autumn, including Crocus speciosus, Crocus pulchellus and the celebrated Crocus sativus. Their flowers appear when much of the garden is beginning to wind down for the year.

There is an important botanical warning here.

Plants in the genus Colchicum are also commonly called "autumn crocuses," but they are not true crocuses. This distinction is especially important because colchicums are poisonous and should never be mistaken for saffron crocus.

The Saffron Crocus

Crocus sativus deserves special mention because few garden plants have had such a remarkable history.

Saffron is produced from the three brilliant red stigmas inside each flower. They are picked by hand and carefully dried.

And that explains the price.

It takes roughly 150 flowers to produce only about one gram of dried saffron.

The saffron crocus is an ancient cultivated plant whose exact wild origin has long been debated. Modern botanical authorities regard it as a cultigen originating in Greece, and it was probably selected thousands of years ago from a related wild crocus, generally identified as Crocus cartwrightianus. Crocus sativus is sterile, so it does not reproduce by seed. Human beings have perpetuated it by dividing and replanting its corms generation after generation.

That means every saffron crocus growing today belongs to a cultivated tradition stretching far back into antiquity.

For the adventurous gardener, saffron can be grown at home. Give the corms full sun and exceptionally good drainage, plant them about 4 to 6 inches deep and roughly 4 inches apart, and expect their lavender-purple flowers in autumn.

When Should Crocuses Be Planted?

The answer depends upon when they flower.

Spring-flowering crocuses should be planted in autumn, while the corms are dormant. September through November is suitable in many climates, and planting can continue as long as the soil remains workable.

In warmer Southern gardens, there is generally no reason to rush them into warm September soil. Waiting until the weather and soil have cooled in autumn is often preferable.

Autumn-flowering crocuses should be planted earlier, usually in late summer or early September. They need time to establish before their flowering season arrives. Saffron crocus is likewise normally planted in late summer or early autumn.

Where Should You Plant Crocuses?

Crocuses look best when they appear to belong where they are growing.

A single crocus here and another ten feet away can look rather forlorn. Plant them in groups, drifts and irregular clusters instead.

Good locations include sunny flower borders, rock gardens, raised beds, beneath deciduous trees and shrubs, along walks and paths, and in lawns or open grassy areas where they can naturalize.

They are also excellent container plants.

Because deciduous trees have not yet fully leafed out when spring crocuses are flowering, crocuses can thrive beneath them where the ground receives plenty of winter and early-spring sunshine.

For naturalizing in a lawn, remember one important rule: don't mow the foliage down immediately after flowering.

How Deep Should Crocus Corms Be Planted?

For most small spring-flowering crocuses, planting the corms about 3 to 4 inches deep works well. Large Dutch crocuses can be planted somewhat deeper, around 4 to 5 inches.

Plant with the pointed end upward. If you cannot determine which end is which, don't lose sleep over it. The emerging shoot is surprisingly capable of finding its way toward daylight.

Space the corms a few inches apart, or plant them more closely when you want an immediate massed effect.

For a natural appearance, avoid planting them in military ranks. Scatter a handful gently over the planting area and plant them approximately where they fall. Nature seldom uses a ruler.

Sun and Soil

Most crocuses perform best in full sun or light partial shade.

Drainage is more important than rich soil. Crocus corms sitting in cold, soggy ground are invitations to rot.

Ordinary garden soil is generally adequate if it drains freely. Heavy clay can be improved with organic matter and by planting in raised areas where excess water can escape. Rock gardens and raised beds are especially useful for species that demand sharp drainage.

The RHS notes that crocuses generally thrive in sunny, well-drained locations and can grow in borders, turf, containers and beneath deciduous trees.

Caring for Crocuses After They Bloom

Once the flowers fade, leave the foliage alone.

Those narrow green leaves are manufacturing and storing food in the corm for next year's flowers. Cutting or mowing them prematurely weakens the plants.

Allow the foliage to yellow and die naturally. Only then should it be removed.

This is particularly important when crocuses are naturalized in lawns. Delay mowing the crocus area until the leaves have substantially yellowed.

Established crocuses generally require little attention. In favorable conditions the corms multiply, gradually forming larger colonies. Crowded clumps can eventually be lifted and divided while dormant.

Crocuses in the Lawn

Few spring displays are more satisfying than crocuses scattered through an old lawn.

Smaller species are especially well suited to naturalizing. Rather than arranging them symmetrically, scatter the corms by hand and plant them where they land. Over several years the original planting may expand into broad colonies.

The effect can look as though the flowers had always been there.

That is often the difference between merely planting flowers and making a garden.

Small Flowers with a Long History

Crocuses are modest plants. They require little room, little ceremony and relatively little care. Yet they have followed human civilization for thousands of years — from the saffron fields of the ancient Mediterranean to monastery gardens, European estates, cottage lawns and modern American backyards.

Plant the spring-flowering sorts in autumn. Give them sunshine and drainage. Leave their foliage until it dies naturally. Put them where they can multiply.

Then wait.

On some cold morning when winter seems to have overstayed its welcome, a small purple or golden flower will appear almost at ground level.

The calendar may still say winter.

The crocus knows better.

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Salmon Impression Darwin Hybrid Tulip: Spring in the Color of a Sunset

 

 Some tulips are red. Some are pink. Some are orange.

‘Salmon Impression’ seems unwilling to choose.

Its great goblet-shaped flowers mingle salmon, apricot and warm pink, with paler rose-pink edges and subtle changes of color as the blossoms mature. The flowers tend to open with stronger apricot tones and gradually become pinker with age. Look inside and there is another surprise: a cool steel-blue base hidden beneath all that warmth.

It is a remarkably romantic flower—not sugary pink, not fiery orange, but something between the two, like the color of the western sky shortly before sunset.

And because ‘Salmon Impression’ is a Darwin Hybrid, all that delicacy of color comes on a plant of considerable substance.

What Type of Tulip Is ‘Salmon Impression’?

‘Salmon Impression’ belongs to the Darwin Hybrid class, one of the finest groups of tulips for landscape planting.

Darwin Hybrids are descended from crosses between old Darwin tulips and Tulipa fosteriana. The resulting plants combine enormous flowers with tall, strong stems and, under favorable conditions, a greater tendency to return in subsequent years than many other modern garden tulips.

‘Salmon Impression’ generally reaches about 20 to 24 inches tall, with large, classically shaped flowers held proudly above broad green foliage. Some descriptions give flower sizes approaching six inches when fully developed.

This is not a little tulip for peering at on your knees.

It has presence.

When Was ‘Salmon Impression’ Introduced?

There is some conflicting information in the horticultural trade about its introduction date. One current Dutch source gives 2010, but multiple specialist references identify ‘Salmon Impression’ as having been introduced in 2000. More importantly, those sources also identify its origin: it arose as a sport of the celebrated Darwin Hybrid ‘Pink Impression’.

Because the 2000 date is independently repeated by specialist bulb sources and accompanied by the cultivar's parentage, I would use 2000 for a catalog or blog history, while acknowledging that some modern records give a later date.

The original mutation changed the flower color while retaining the impressive stature and flower form associated with ‘Pink Impression’.

That family resemblance is still easy to see.

Who Introduced It?

Here the documentary trail becomes less satisfactory.

I can establish confidently that ‘Salmon Impression’ originated as a sport of ‘Pink Impression’ and was in commercial cultivation by about 2000, but I have not found a sufficiently authoritative cultivar record identifying the individual breeder or nursery responsible for discovering and introducing the sport.

Rather than assign the flower to somebody on the strength of an unsupported internet listing, I would leave the originator unnamed until a Dutch registration record establishes it.

Tulip history has accumulated enough invented certainty already.

Why Is It Called ‘Salmon Impression’?

The name is wonderfully descriptive.

The “Impression” portion connects it with its parent, ‘Pink Impression’, and the famous family of Impression Darwin Hybrids.

“Salmon” describes the transformation.

But this isn't the rather dull salmon color sometimes encountered on old bathroom tile. The flower contains an extraordinarily warm blend of salmon-pink, apricot and rose. As the blossom matures, the balance between those colors changes.

That changing color gives a mass planting particular depth.

Some flowers may appear more apricot.

Others are decidedly pink.

Still others fall almost perfectly between the two.

The result is a planting that looks harmonious without looking mechanically uniform.

The Romance of Salmon Pink

There is something particularly gentle about salmon-colored flowers.

Scarlet demands attention.

Yellow sparkles.

Purple brings depth and mystery.

Salmon glows.

In early morning, ‘Salmon Impression’ can look soft and rosy. Under the stronger light of afternoon, its apricot warmth becomes more apparent. Toward evening, when sunlight becomes golden, a bed of these tulips can seem almost illuminated from within.

That is where the romance of this tulip lies.

It doesn't merely possess a color.

It responds to light.

A Tulip Made for the Landscape

Darwin Hybrids were practically made for large garden displays.

Their height, strong stems and enormous flowers allow them to be seen from a considerable distance. ‘Salmon Impression’ is specifically recommended for landscape planting, mass planting and cutting.

Plant ten and you have a handsome group.

Plant twenty-five and you begin to understand the cultivar.

Plant fifty or a hundred and the landscape changes.

A broad drift of salmon-pink tulips rising through fresh green foliage can create a pool of warm color that draws the eye from across the garden.

For an informal landscape, avoid straight lines. Plant generous irregular groups and allow their edges to mingle.

The flowers are stately enough.

Their arrangement needn't stand at attention.

Plant Them Along a Walk

‘Salmon Impression’ is particularly effective along a garden walk.

At roughly two feet tall, the flowers rise sufficiently high to make an impressive display while remaining close enough for their subtler coloring to be appreciated.

This is important.

From fifty feet away, you see salmon-pink.

From five feet away, you begin seeing apricot, rose, pale pink and the extraordinary blue-toned base inside the flower.

A winding path with broad colonies of ‘Salmon Impression’ appearing at intervals could be magnificent.

And because the cultivar flowers in mid- to late spring, the surrounding garden will already be filling rapidly with green.

Against that background, the warm flowers glow.

Salmon and Deep Purple

One of the richest combinations is salmon with deep purple.

A dark purple tulip planted among ‘Salmon Impression’ gives the border visual depth and makes the lighter flowers seem almost luminous.

Plum and burgundy work beautifully for the same reason.

I would use the dark color sparingly—perhaps one dark group for every two or three groups of salmon.

The object is contrast, not combat.

‘Salmon Impression’ should remain the star.

Salmon and Cream

For a quieter and more romantic planting, combine ‘Salmon Impression’ with cream or ivory.

This softens the entire scheme.

Cream connects naturally with the pale portions of the salmon flowers, while the apricot and pink provide warmth.

The combination would be especially handsome beside old brick, weathered stone, a white-painted fence or traditional architecture.

There is nothing fashionable about such a color scheme.

That is precisely why it won't go out of fashion.

Salmon and Blue

Blue is another natural companion.

Low blue flowers such as forget-me-nots or grape hyacinths can create a cool carpet beneath the tall salmon-colored tulips.

The contrast is particularly effective because the blue remains low while ‘Salmon Impression’ provides the vertical element.

And there is a delightful little secret here.

The hidden steel-blue base inside the tulip itself subtly repeats the blue at its feet.

Most visitors will never consciously notice the connection.

They will simply think the planting looks right.

Some of the best garden design works that way.

Plant It Among Perennials

‘Salmon Impression’ also belongs naturally in the perennial border.

Plant the bulbs between herbaceous perennials that emerge relatively late in spring. The tulips provide color while the perennials are still developing.

Then the exchange begins.

The tulips finish flowering.

Their foliage starts to yellow.

The neighboring perennials expand and gradually hide the declining leaves.

By early summer, the tulips have disappeared and the perennial garden has taken their place.

Nothing looks empty because the same ground has been asked to perform twice.

Good gardens are economical with space, even when they look extravagant.

A Natural Companion for Spring-Flowering Shrubs

The warm coloring also works beautifully beneath spring-flowering shrubs.

Imagine a drift of ‘Salmon Impression’ beneath white-flowering shrubs or against the fresh green foliage of deciduous azaleas.

Pale pink flowering shrubs can create a softer, tonal effect.

The tulips occupy the lower level of the landscape while the shrubs provide height behind them.

The important thing is sunlight. Darwin Hybrids perform best when they receive plenty of it, especially if you hope the bulbs will return in later years.

Don't Be Afraid of Large Numbers

This cultivar rewards generosity.

A complicated multicolored tulip can sometimes become overwhelming when planted by the hundred.

‘Salmon Impression’ does the opposite.

Its related shades of pink, salmon and apricot become more beautiful as the planting grows larger.

Imagine a great sweep of them running through a border.

The individual flowers provide slight variations in color, while repetition unifies the whole planting.

From a distance it becomes a ribbon of warm salmon.

Up close it dissolves into hundreds of individual goblets, each catching the light a little differently.

That is exactly what a good mass planting should do.

Beautiful in Containers

Although its tall stature makes ‘Salmon Impression’ primarily a landscape tulip, it can also be impressive in large containers.

The key word is large.

A tall Darwin Hybrid emerging from a tiny flowerpot can look rather like a church steeple mounted on a teacup.

Use a substantial urn, broad terracotta pot or other container with enough visual weight to balance the flowers.

Plant generously and keep the color scheme simple.

A large pot filled entirely with ‘Salmon Impression’ can be far more effective than an overly complicated assortment.

Place it against a wall, beside an entrance or on a terrace where the flowers catch morning or evening light.

An Exceptional Cut Flower

The long, strong stems and enormous blooms also make ‘Salmon Impression’ an excellent cut flower. Professional growers specifically recommend the cultivar for cut-flower production.

And this is where its subtle coloring becomes particularly valuable.

Indoors, you can see what isn't obvious from across the garden: the transition from apricot through salmon to pink, the pale petal edges and the contrasting base inside the flower.

A vase containing only ‘Salmon Impression’ needs very little assistance.

Add cream flowers for softness.

Deep plum for drama.

Or nothing at all.

Sometimes a dozen tulips and an old glass vase are sufficient.

One of the Better Tulips for Returning

Perhaps the greatest practical virtue of ‘Salmon Impression’ is its Darwin Hybrid ancestry.

Darwin Hybrids are among the modern tulips most likely to return and flower for multiple seasons under favorable conditions. ‘Salmon Impression’ itself is described by professional bulb growers as reliable, long-lasting and particularly capable of perennializing.

That doesn't mean it should be treated like a daffodil.

No modern tulip comes with a lifetime contract.

But if you want a large-flowered garden tulip with a reasonable chance of returning, Darwin Hybrids are among the best places to start.

Give It What It Needs to Come Back

Plant the bulbs in autumn in a sunny location with excellent drainage.

Professional growers recommend planting Darwin Hybrids about 6 to 8 inches deep and approximately 6 inches apart.

If you hope for repeat flowering, don't cut the foliage after bloom.

Deadhead the spent flowers so the plant doesn't waste energy producing seed, but allow every green leaf to remain until it yellows and dies naturally. That foliage is manufacturing the food that replenishes the bulb underground.

And avoid excessively wet soil during summer dormancy.

Tulips come from ancestors accustomed to climates where spring moisture is followed by relatively dry summers.

A dormant bulb appreciates a rest.

It does not require a bath.

A Sunset Captured in a Tulip

‘Salmon Impression’ combines two qualities that do not always occur together.

It is powerful and gentle.

The plant itself is substantial: tall stems, enormous flowers, strong Darwin Hybrid growth and enough presence for great landscape plantings.

Yet the color is soft.

Salmon melts into apricot. Apricot becomes pink. Pale rose touches the petal edges, while a hidden steel-blue heart waits inside.

Plant it beside cream for elegance.

Set it against purple for drama.

Let blue forget-me-nots gather at its feet.

Or plant a hundred bulbs in a great sweeping drift and allow that warm salmon color to flow through the spring landscape.

There are tulips that look best at noon.

‘Salmon Impression’ deserves to be seen toward evening, when the sun is low and the light turns golden.

Then the flowers seem less like something planted in the garden and more like something borrowed from the sunset.

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Orange Princess Double Late Tulip: A Royal Flame in the Late-Spring Garden

 

There are orange tulips, and then there is ‘Orange Princess’.

Calling it orange hardly does it justice. Its great, many-petaled flowers mingle warm orange and apricot with reddish-purple flames, occasional touches of pink, a yellow glow near the base, and even hints of green along the outer petals. As the flowers unfold, those colors seem to shift with the light.

It is not a quiet tulip.

Nor should it be.

‘Orange Princess’ belongs to the Double Late tulips—the great peony-flowered varieties that bring the tulip season toward its extravagant conclusion. By the time it blooms, spring is no longer tentative. The trees are green, perennial borders are awakening, and the garden is approaching that brief, wonderful interval when nearly everything seems possible.

Into all that fresh green comes ‘Orange Princess’, glowing like a small flame.

A Dutch Princess Born in 1983

‘Orange Princess’ was introduced in the Netherlands in 1983. The cultivar is credited to C. J. Zonneveld & Sons together with W. B. & Th. Reus.

That makes it a relatively modern tulip, but its ancestry reaches farther back.

‘Orange Princess’ originated as a double-flowered sport of the famous tulip ‘Prinses Irene’—usually known to English-speaking gardeners as ‘Princess Irene’.

A sport is a spontaneous mutation that causes part of a plant to develop differently from the original. If the new characteristic is stable and desirable, growers can propagate that altered plant vegetatively and preserve it as a new cultivar.

In this case, the result was remarkable.

The elegant orange-and-purple coloring of ‘Princess Irene’ reappeared in a much fuller flower, with layer upon layer of petals.

The princess had acquired a considerably more elaborate wardrobe.

Why Is It Called ‘Orange Princess’?

The name follows naturally from its parentage.

Because it is a double-flowered sport of ‘Princess Irene’, the name ‘Orange Princess’ preserves both the royal association and the flower's predominant orange coloring.

And “orange” here does not mean a flat, unvarying shade.

The flowers have been described as rich orange with garnet-red or reddish-purple flames, yellow toward the base and occasional green tips on the outer petals.

That complexity is precisely what makes the flower interesting.

From across the garden, you see orange.

Walk closer and another flower appears entirely.

What Type of Tulip Is ‘Orange Princess’?

‘Orange Princess’ is a Double Late tulip.

The Double Late class contains some of the most sumptuous flowers in the tulip world. Their blossoms contain so many petals that they are commonly called peony-flowered tulips.

‘Orange Princess’ typically grows about 12 to 16 inches tall, with great double flowers carried on relatively short stems. Dutch professional records place it firmly in the Double Late group and describe its flowering period as late.

That combination of a relatively compact plant and an enormous flower gives ‘Orange Princess’ much of its character.

It does not tower above the garden.

It sits among the spring foliage like a great bowl of glowing petals.

A Flower Made for Close Inspection

This is one tulip that deserves to be planted where people can see it closely.

At a distance, the orange makes the impression.

Up close, the details take over.

The reddish-purple flames become apparent. The outer petals may show green. The yellow base warms the center of the flower, while the multiple layers of petals create shadow and depth.

And because individual flowers vary slightly, a group of ‘Orange Princess’ tulips doesn't look like a row of identical manufactured objects.

One may be more orange.

Another may show stronger purple markings.

Another may reveal more green.

That slight unpredictability gives a planting life.

How to Use ‘Orange Princess’ in the Landscape

Because it is comparatively short, ‘Orange Princess’ is best placed toward the front or middle of a border.

It is especially handsome beside a walkway, where the complicated coloring can be appreciated at close range.

Its compact stature also makes it useful beneath deciduous shrubs and among emerging perennials, provided neighboring plants do not overwhelm it.

And then there is the obvious choice: plant it in groups.

One ‘Orange Princess’ is beautiful.

Three are interesting.

Twenty-five begin to look like something spring itself intended.

For an informal garden, plant the bulbs in irregular drifts rather than straight rows. Allow one group to flow into another, with a few bulbs wandering toward the edges.

A princess may require good breeding.

She needn't stand in formation.

Plant It Against Green

Sometimes the finest companion for an elaborate flower is simply foliage.

‘Orange Princess’ looks magnificent against fresh spring green.

Its own flowers already contain orange, red-purple, yellow and occasional green. There is no urgent need to introduce half the color wheel beside it.

Plant it among emerging perennials or in front of shrubs whose young foliage creates a calm background.

The green allows those extraordinary flowers to do the talking.

Orange and Deep Purple

If you do want another strong color, deep purple is one of the finest choices.

The purple echoes the darker flames within the ‘Orange Princess’ flowers while contrasting dramatically with the orange.

Deep burgundy can work equally well.

A broad drift of ‘Orange Princess’ with smaller groups of dark purple tulips appearing through it can create a remarkably rich late-spring planting.

The trick is restraint.

Let the orange dominate and use the dark color as punctuation.

Orange and Blue

Blue provides a very different effect.

Low-growing blue flowers beneath ‘Orange Princess’ create a classic complementary contrast. Forget-me-nots can be particularly charming if their flowering periods coincide.

The blue forms a cool carpet while the great orange flowers rise above it.

This combination works especially well in cottage gardens, where the little blue flowers can wander somewhat freely between the tulips.

It looks less designed and more discovered.

That is often the better compliment.

Try It With Cream

For a softer and rather more sophisticated combination, pair ‘Orange Princess’ with cream or warm white.

Cream takes some of the heat out of the orange without making the planting cold.

The result can be especially handsome near traditional architecture—old brick, stone, weathered wood or a white-painted fence.

Apricot and peach flowers can also be added to create a warm tonal planting, progressing from cream through peach and orange to the reddish-purple flames of ‘Orange Princess’.

In late-afternoon light, such a border can positively glow.

A Natural Choice for the Cottage Garden

There is something almost old-fashioned about Double Late tulips despite the comparatively recent introduction of ‘Orange Princess’.

Perhaps it is their resemblance to peonies.

Perhaps it is simply their extravagance.

Either way, ‘Orange Princess’ belongs beautifully in a cottage-style border among emerging perennials.

Plant it along an old brick path, near peonies that will flower later, or among hardy geraniums and other perennials that will expand as the tulips decline.

The tulips provide the spring performance.

Then, as their flowers fade, the surrounding plants gradually take over and conceal the yellowing foliage.

A good garden should have succession.

One flower bows while another walks onto the stage.

Splendid in Containers

‘Orange Princess’ is exceptionally well suited to containers.

Its relatively short stature keeps the plant in proportion to the pot, while its enormous double flowers provide more than enough drama. Horticultural references specifically recommend it for pots, and its compact growth has also made it useful for forcing.

A broad terracotta pot filled entirely with ‘Orange Princess’ would be difficult to improve upon.

Terracotta is particularly appropriate because its warm earthy color complements the orange flowers.

For contrast, add a few low blue violas or forget-me-nots.

Or plant nothing else.

Royalty doesn't always require an entourage.

A Magnificent Cut Flower

‘Orange Princess’ also makes a memorable cut flower.

Those enormous peony-like blossoms can reach roughly four inches across, making only a few stems sufficient for an impressive arrangement.

The flowers are complex enough that they need little accompaniment.

Put five or seven stems into a simple vase and allow them to open naturally.

As tulips continue growing and bending after cutting, the arrangement will gradually change. Straight stems become graceful curves, closed flowers become great bowls of petals, and the purple and green markings become increasingly apparent.

It is less a flower arrangement than a performance lasting several days.

Give Those Heavy Flowers Some Shelter

There is one practical consideration.

Double Late tulips carry a great many petals.

A flower filled with petals becomes considerably heavier after a hard rain, and strong winds can bend stems or damage the blossoms. ‘Orange Princess’ is relatively compact, which helps, but a somewhat sheltered site is still preferable.

A border near the house, courtyard, sheltered garden walk or protected perennial bed can be ideal.

The flower's extravagance is its virtue.

It is also its luggage.

Growing ‘Orange Princess’

Plant the bulbs in autumn in fertile, well-drained soil.

A sunny position is best, although some light shade can be tolerated. A planting depth of roughly 6 inches and spacing of about 4 to 6 inches works well for ordinary garden use.

For a richer first-year display, plant somewhat more closely in containers or dedicated bulb beds.

Good drainage matters enormously.

Tulips are remarkably tolerant of winter cold while dormant, but bulbs sitting in persistently waterlogged soil are liable to rot.

After flowering, remove the spent flowers if you intend to retain the bulbs, but leave the foliage until it turns yellow naturally.

Those untidy leaves are replenishing the bulb.

Spring beauty occasionally sends us a bill afterward.

An Award-Winning Princess

‘Orange Princess’ has not survived in cultivation merely because of an attractive name.

Its garden qualities have been formally recognized with the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.

That is significant because the cultivar is more than a novelty.

It combines manageable height, extraordinary double flowers, unusual coloring and versatility in borders, containers and cutting gardens.

More than forty years after its 1983 introduction, it remains a distinctive tulip.

A Little Royal Extravagance

There is a moment late in spring when ‘Orange Princess’ reaches perfection.

The buds have opened into great peony-like flowers. Afternoon sunlight passes through the orange petals. Purple flames emerge from their folds. A little yellow glows near the heart of the flower, while touches of green seem to connect the blossoms to the garden around them.

Plant them along an old brick walk.

Let them rise among fresh perennial foliage.

Fill a great terracotta pot beside the front steps.

Or plant a generous drift and allow the whole bed to burn orange beneath the spring sun.

‘Orange Princess’ is not the tulip for a gardener seeking restraint.

It is warm, elaborate, slightly theatrical and unapologetically beautiful.

Spring, after all, has been restrained all winter.

By the time ‘Orange Princess’ flowers, it deserves a little extravagance.

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Rococo Parrot Tulip: A Little Baroque Extravagance for the Spring Garden

 

There are tulips that possess dignity, tulips that possess grace, and tulips that behave themselves impeccably in a formal border.

Then there is ‘Rococo’.

This extraordinary Parrot tulip seems to have been designed on the principle that moderation is overrated. Its great flowers are twisted, puckered, ruffled and feathered, with rich cardinal-red to crimson petals streaked and splashed with green, purple and touches of yellow. Even the individual flowers vary slightly from one another.

The result is wonderfully theatrical.

And the name could hardly be more appropriate. The Rococo style of the eighteenth century delighted in curves, ornament, asymmetry and exuberant decoration. ‘Rococo’ the tulip seems to have absorbed the same philosophy.

It is a flower that refuses to sit quietly in the corner.

What Type of Tulip Is ‘Rococo’?

‘Rococo’ belongs to the Parrot Group of tulips.

Parrot tulips are among the most extraordinary results of centuries of tulip cultivation. Their flowers have irregularly cut, curled, twisted and feathered petals that suggested the ruffled plumage of exotic parrots—hence the name of the group.

The Royal Horticultural Society describes ‘Rococo’ specifically as a Parrot cultivar with thick, puckered tepals of rich red, feathered with green and touched with yellow.

That description is accurate, but perhaps a little too polite.

The flowers can be positively wild.

As they mature, the petals twist and spread, sometimes opening very broadly in warm sunshine. Their crinkled surfaces catch light and shadow differently from ordinary smooth-petaled tulips, making the reds appear deeper in some places and almost luminous in others.

Where Did ‘Rococo’ Come From?

‘Rococo’ is a Dutch cultivar, but its immediate origin is particularly interesting.

It arose as a sport of the old tulip ‘Couleur Cardinal’. A sport is a spontaneous genetic mutation that produces a visibly different shoot or flower on an otherwise established plant. If that mutation is stable, horticulturists can propagate it vegetatively and preserve the new form as a cultivar.

Research on tulip cultivar lineages confirms ‘Couleur Cardinal’ as the parent cultivar of ‘Rococo’, and historic-tulip records likewise describe ‘Rococo’ as a sport of that famous old red tulip.

That gives ‘Rococo’ a rather distinguished ancestry.

‘Couleur Cardinal’ itself is one of the great surviving historic tulips, dating from the nineteenth century. Somewhere along the line, that comparatively restrained old red tulip produced something considerably more flamboyant.

Children will do that occasionally.

When Was ‘Rococo’ Introduced?

‘Rococo’ dates from 1942.

Historic bulb records identify it as a Dutch introduction from that year, and horticultural references credit the cultivar to H. Slegtkamp & Co.

That means ‘Rococo’ has now been in cultivation for more than eighty years.

That is impressive longevity in the world of commercial tulips. Thousands of cultivars have appeared and disappeared during those decades. A tulip that remains recognizable and desirable after eight decades has usually earned its place.

‘Rococo’ certainly has.

Why Is It Called ‘Rococo’?

I have not found a surviving statement from H. Slegtkamp & Co. explicitly explaining the choice of name, so we shouldn't pretend to possess documentary evidence that isn't there.

But in this case the resemblance is almost impossible to miss.

The historical Rococo style developed in eighteenth-century France and reveled in elaborate decoration, curving forms, asymmetry and natural motifs. The Smithsonian's Cooper Hewitt describes Rococo as emphasizing organic forms and curved lines rather than rigid classical geometry.

Now look at the tulip.

Nothing is straight that could be curved.

Nothing is plain that could be ruffled.

Nothing is merely red when it could also contain green, purple and yellow.

If the cultivar was indeed named in reference to the artistic style—and its appearance makes that interpretation highly plausible—the name was inspired.

A Tulip With an Older Family History

Although ‘Rococo’ itself dates only from 1942, Parrot tulips have a much older history.

Their strange feathered forms emerged among cultivated tulips centuries ago, and the group became part of the extraordinary diversity produced during the long development of European tulip culture.

Modern Parrot tulips descend from mutations and selections in which petals became irregular, deeply cut, twisted or feathered. Current horticultural descriptions still emphasize mutation as an important source of these unusual forms.

‘Rococo’ is a splendid example of what happens when a genetic oddity becomes horticultural treasure.

The ordinary flower obeys the rules.

The memorable flower occasionally breaks them.

What Does ‘Rococo’ Look Like?

The dominant color is a deep cardinal to carmine red, but describing ‘Rococo’ simply as a red tulip misses most of the point.

The outside of the petals can carry conspicuous green feathering along with purple or burgundy tones. Yellow may appear in streaks and near the base. The flowers become increasingly flamboyant as they open. The Chicago Botanic Garden describes the cultivar as deep cardinal red with green and purple feathering.

Even the texture is unusual.

The petals can appear thick, folded, crumpled and almost waxy. One section catches the sunlight while another falls into shadow.

A bed of ‘Rococo’ therefore possesses much more depth than a bed of uniformly colored smooth-petaled tulips.

Shorter Than Many Parrot Tulips

‘Rococo’ is also relatively compact.

Historic-tulip specialists commonly describe it as about 14 to 16 inches tall and note that it is both shorter and somewhat earlier than many traditional Parrot tulips.

That can be an advantage.

Parrot flowers are large and heavy. Tall stems carrying enormous flowers can suffer in strong wind or heavy rain, especially after the petals have collected water.

A somewhat shorter plant presents less leverage to the wind.

Even so, ‘Rococo’ deserves a reasonably sheltered location. The RHS recommends protection from strong winds and excessive wet.

Magnificence sometimes requires a little looking after.

How to Use ‘Rococo’ in the Landscape

The first rule is simple: put it somewhere it can be seen.

This is not a tulip to plant at the far end of the property.

Its chief attractions are the extraordinary feathering, twisting and subtle mixtures of color within each flower. Those details disappear at fifty feet.

Plant ‘Rococo’ near a walkway, terrace, entrance or sitting area.

The RHS recommends it for flower beds and borders, cottage and informal gardens, courtyard gardens, containers and cutting gardens.

Its moderate height makes it especially useful toward the front or middle of a border.

Let ‘Rococo’ Be the Star

With a flower this elaborate, companion planting requires a little restraint.

There is a temptation to put flamboyant flowers beside other flamboyant flowers until the border resembles a carnival parade.

Sometimes that works.

Usually, ‘Rococo’ benefits from quieter companions.

Deep green foliage is perhaps the simplest background. It echoes the green streaking in the petals without competing with the flowers themselves.

A planting of ‘Rococo’ emerging from a restrained green border allows every strange twist and fold of the flowers to stand out.

Pair It With Cream and White

White or cream flowers can be magnificent companions.

They provide visual breathing room around the intense crimson and green of ‘Rococo’.

Rather than alternating individual bulbs, plant groups.

A broad group of ‘Rococo’ beside a quieter group of creamy-white tulips will usually look more natural than a strict red-white-red-white pattern.

The pale flowers act almost like light falling between the darker ones.

Deep Purple Makes It Richer

Deep purple, plum and burgundy can also work beautifully.

These colors draw attention to the darker purple tones already present in ‘Rococo’ and produce an exceptionally rich planting.

Use them sparingly.

‘Rococo’ already has plenty to say.

A few dark companions provide punctuation. Too many may start an argument.

Try It With Spring Green

Green-flowered tulips can make particularly interesting companions because they repeat the conspicuous green markings in ‘Rococo’.

A white-and-green Viridiflora, for example, would create a fascinating contrast: one tulip restrained and elegant, the other flamboyant and restless, but both connected by green.

The combination has enough contrast to be interesting and enough repetition to look intentional.

Wonderful in a Cottage Garden

Despite the grandeur suggested by its name, ‘Rococo’ fits beautifully into a cottage garden.

Its irregular flowers actually work particularly well among emerging perennials, where the surrounding foliage softens the planting.

Imagine groups of those great crimson-and-green flowers appearing between clumps of fresh spring foliage along an old brick path.

The effect is sumptuous without becoming formal.

In fact, ‘Rococo’ looks remarkably good in a garden that is just slightly overgrown.

Not neglected.

There is an important distinction.

Spectacular in Containers

This may be one of the best ways to grow ‘Rococo’.

A large container brings the flowers closer to eye level, allowing all those strange folds, feathers and streaks to be appreciated properly.

Use a substantial terracotta pot or traditional urn and plant the bulbs generously.

I would be inclined to let ‘Rococo’ stand alone rather than complicating the container with too many other large flowers. If you want something beneath it, use a restrained low-growing plant in cream, white or deep purple.

A pot full of ‘Rococo’ beside a doorway requires very little assistance.

Plant Enough to Create Drama

One ‘Rococo’ flower is a curiosity.

Five make a handsome group.

Twenty-five make a spectacle.

This cultivar is especially effective when repeated through a border in irregular colonies. Because the individual flowers vary slightly in their feathering and coloring, even a large planting does not become monotonous.

Quite the opposite.

The more flowers you have, the more variations you notice.

It is almost as though every bulb has been given the same set of colors but different instructions for using them.

An Excellent Cut Flower

‘Rococo’ also makes a superb cut tulip.

Its strange flower form becomes even more apparent indoors, where the blossoms can be examined closely. The Chicago Botanic Garden and RHS both recognize its usefulness as a cut flower.

A vase containing only a handful can be spectacular.

You don't need an elaborate mixed arrangement. The green and purple feathering already gives the flowers much of the complexity that foliage and companion flowers would normally provide.

Put them in a simple vase and let them misbehave.

Growing ‘Rococo’

Plant the bulbs in autumn in fertile, well-drained soil.

Full sun is best, although a location with some protection from severe wind is particularly valuable for Parrot tulips. The RHS recommends planting ‘Rococo’ approximately 4 to 6 inches deep and specifically cautions against excessive wet.

Good drainage is essential.

After flowering, remove the spent flowers if you intend to retain the bulbs, but leave the foliage until it yellows naturally.

The leaves are replenishing the bulb.

It isn't the prettiest stage of tulip cultivation, but gardens, like people, occasionally have to do useful things while not looking their best.

Will ‘Rococo’ Return?

It can.

Parrot tulips, however, are not generally the first tulips one would choose for dependable naturalizing. Historic-tulip specialists acknowledge the group's reputation for being relatively short-lived, although individual tulips can persist for many years when conditions suit them.

If you want the best chance of repeat flowering, provide excellent drainage, plenty of sunlight and a relatively dry summer dormancy.

Allow the foliage to mature completely.

And don't be terribly surprised if the display gradually diminishes. Many gardeners simply supplement their Parrot tulips with fresh bulbs periodically to maintain the desired effect.

Some extravagances are worth renewing.

More Than Eighty Years of Flamboyance

‘Rococo’ has survived in cultivation since 1942 for a very good reason.

It is unforgettable.

Born as a sport of the venerable ‘Couleur Cardinal’ and introduced from Holland by H. Slegtkamp & Co., it transformed an old red tulip into something altogether more extravagant: a mass of crimson, cardinal red, green, purple and yellow wrapped in twisted and feathered petals.

More than eighty years later, it still looks daring.

Plant it beside an old brick walk. Fill a terracotta pot with it. Let it emerge among perennials in a cottage border. Or plant a generous drift where afternoon sunlight can catch every fold and wrinkle of those extraordinary flowers.

There are tulips that bring order to a garden.

There are tulips that bring serenity.

‘Rococo’ brings theater.

And every good garden can use a little of that.

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