Showing posts with label companion planting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label companion planting. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 3, 2026

Planting Onion Bulbs: A Plain-Spoken Guide to Growing a Proper Crop

 

Onion sets

Onions are humble things—mud on their boots, bite on their tongue—but they are the backbone of a serious kitchen. Treat them right at planting, and they’ll reward you with bulbs worth bragging about. Treat them poorly, and you’ll get scrawny excuses that split, bolt, or sulk. Let’s do it the old, proven way.


When and Where Onions Thrive

Onions are creatures of daylight, and they pay attention.

  • Climate zones: Best in USDA Zones 3–9.

  • Cool seasons rule: Plant in early spring in colder regions, or late fall to early winter in the South for a spring harvest.

  • Day-length matters:

Ignore this, and the onion will ignore you back.


Soil: Where the Real Work Happens

Onions don’t like hardship underground.

  • Texture: Loose, friable, and well-drained—sandy loam is king.

  • Condition: Stones, clods, and compacted soil cause misshapen bulbs. Onions want room to swell.

  • Organic matter: Moderately rich, not swampy. Too much fresh manure invites rot and excess leaf at the expense of bulb.

If your soil packs like brick, fix it before you ever open the onion bag.


Ideal Soil pH

Onions are polite but particular.

  • Preferred pH: 6.0–6.8

  • Below 5.5 and nutrients lock up. Above 7.0 and growth slows.
    A simple soil test saves a season of disappointment.


How to Plant Onion Bulbs (Sets)

Onion sets are forgiving—perfect for busy gardeners or those who’ve been burned by finicky seedlings.

  1. Plant depth: Push the bulb in so the tip just peeks above the soil. Don’t bury it like a corpse.

  2. Spacing:

    • 4–6 inches apart for full-sized bulbs

    • 12–18 inches between rows

  3. Orientation: Pointy end up. Always.

  4. Firm gently: Onions hate air pockets but don’t need stomping.


Watering: Steady, Not Soggy

Onions are shallow-rooted and quick to complain.

  • Water regularly: About 1 inch per week, more in sandy soils.

  • Critical period: Bulb formation—drought here means small onions.

  • Back off near harvest: Too much water late invites rot and weak skins.

Consistency beats enthusiasm.


Fertilizer Requirements

Onions are heavy feeders early, light eaters later.

  • Nitrogen: Crucial during leaf growth. Use a balanced fertilizer or compost early on.

  • Phosphorus & potassium: Support root and bulb development—don’t neglect them.

  • Stop nitrogen once bulbing begins, or you’ll grow leaves fit for a salad and bulbs fit for nothing.

Think front-loaded nutrition, then restraint.


Health Benefits: More Than a Flavor Bomb

Onions earn their place beyond the skillet.

  • Rich in quercetin, a potent antioxidant

  • Support heart health and healthy circulation

  • Possess anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties

  • Contain prebiotics that feed beneficial gut bacteria

No, they won’t cure everything—but they’ve been doing quiet good work for centuries.


Companion Planting: Friends and Foes

Onions are good neighbors—mostly.

Good companions:

  • Carrots

  • Lettuce

  • Beets

  • Spinach

  • Strawberries

Their scent confuses pests and keeps trouble guessing.

Avoid planting near:

  • Beans and peas (they resent onions, and the feeling is mutual)

A garden, like a dinner table, works best when you seat the guests wisely.


Final Word

Onions reward patience, preparation, and restraint—virtues gardeners used to have in abundance. Give them loose soil, honest water, and sunlight measured in hours, not hope. Do that, and when harvest comes, you’ll pull from the earth a bulb that feels like an inheritance—earned, solid, and worth the wait.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Monday, January 29, 2024

Looking for an ideal companion plant for your vegetable garden?

 

Image by Willfried Wende from Pixabay

If you’re looking for an ideal companion plant for your vegetable garden, you can’t go wrong with Yarrow. Achillea species and hybrids – aka Yarrow – attract many helpful insects such as pollinators.

Beside pollinators such as bees and butterflies, which are crucial for abundant harvests, yarrow also attracts beneficial insects for natural pest control. Flower flies – Syrphids – and ladybug larvae devour aphids. The more, the better. Right? Then there are the parasitic wasps that gorge on caterpillars, such as tomato hornworms.

Yarrow varieties can grow from 1 to 3 feet tall with colors ranging from white to pink, red to yellow. Shorter varieties are best for vegetable gardens for they are unlikely to overshadow your goodies. They can spread, but are easily divided. The divisions can be replanted elsewhere.

So, if you’re looking for a fine companion plant that’s helpful in the garden, as well as highly ornamental, consider Achillea.

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Wednesday, August 10, 2011

A Visit to Rutgers Gardens


Just off of U.S. Hwy 1 driving along Ryders Lane in New Brunswick, New Jersey, I was following my Google Map directions looking for the entrance to the Rutgers Gardens. I was expecting something like a large banner, wall or gate, so I missed it. I asked directions, and was told to turn around. "It's back there somewhere," the store clerk said with a wave of the arm. Driving slowly, I found a little sign about 5"x 7" along a chain link fence beside an obscure exit onto Log Cabin Road. Here was the entrance to the famed Rutgers Gardens. Follow me to see what grows behind the highway guard rail.

The Gardens, located on the campus of Rutgers University, were established in 1927 as several horticultural collections in garden settings where plants were grown for research and trial. The first I passed, literally behind the guard rail, was an impressive collection of American hollies that I've often read about, said to be the largest such collection in the world.

According to Rutgers web site, "The future of the Rutgers Gardens is the development of designed gardens. Landscape architects, design professionals, and home owners will be able to see and learn different methods of combining plants that will provide four seasons of color, texture and form." A visit is not a stuffy, academic exercise, but an inspiring experience. You'll leave with ideas that you can use in your own landscape.

The Gardens are quite extensive, covering 50 acres, so it could take some time to enjoy them at a leisurely pace. In addition, the size demands some kind of map to guide the visitor along. I didn't find one, though an unassuming kiosk displays a map and legend. So I took a photograph of it and followed as best I could.

After parking (my car was the only one in the lot), I strolled around a portion of the Holly Collection. It's amazing how much diversity there is in habit, leaf and fruit among the American species of the genus, Ilex. Did you know that there are yellow-fruited varieties? I used to grow them, and may once again. One of my favorite hollies in my personal collection is Ilex opaca 'Maryland Spreader', a slow-growing, mounding variety.

Directly across the drive is a large open area surrounded by the Shrub Garden. Unfortunately, bloom season was over. But even in August a landscaper or home gardener could get a good idea of the size they might expect from various mature shrubs. That would be a valuable education in itself, for a vast majority of landscape shrubs seem to be planted without regard to that important consideration.

Similarly, the Shade Tree Collection should provide valuable lessons to gardeners. Not only size, but shape, canopy density, leaf form and bark texture are worth studying.

Cutting back through the Shrub Garden, I headed for the Lacey Harrison Display Garden which features All-American Selections of vegetables and flowers.


This garden was named for an Extension Specialist in home Horticulture who was involved in designing a demonstration garden of annual plants for the home landscape. Interns and volunteers plant and maintain the delightful display. A student working among the vegetables was eager to answer questions. Having noticed that the beds seemed to be arranged with companionable plants, I inquired. He said it was true. However, these were not only experimental beds, but displays which were the results of research. Even folklore was carefully studied. Typical combinations included tomatoes and basil, and the "three sisters" (corn, beans and squash). Side-by-side vegetable comparisons were "in progress." Of course, tomato trials were among them. You might recall that Rutgers introduced a tomato by that name back in 1934. For many years it was a standard beside which other tomatoes were judged.

The Roy H. De Boer Evergreen Garden is adjacent to the Harrison Display Garden. Roy DeBoer was the former Chairman of the Landscape Architecture Department at Cook College who designed the garden. Plants are grouped around a sunken lawn, creating a delightful vista from a vantage point at the Quimby Water Conservation Garden. A magnificent Sargent's Weeping Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis 'Sargentii') stands out among the collection.

Water conservation is an important topic nowadays. A visitor will get a lot of good ideas on what and how to plant to minimize water use from the Quimby Garden. The practice is called xeriscaping. You can learn more about it from my blog articles on xeriscaping and drought-tolerant plants. A nearby succulent garden also provides good examples for gardeners to adapt.

Across Log Cabin Road from the Quimby Garden, a few smaller "garden rooms" can be found. The tool shed serves as a focal center. These Tribute Gardens are sponsored by persons or corporations to honor the accomplishments and contributions of others. You would enjoy the individual expressions represented. Some are whimsical; all are delightful. Climb up into an oversize Adirondack chair and feel like a kid again!

Gardeners interested in ornamental grasses will find many to inspire them.

Rain gardens are becoming popular as effective methods of trapping available water and minimizing runoff. My blog article about rain gardens explains in greater detail. While rain gardens are considered to be attractive, low-maintenance additions to the landscape, it is also true that they can eventually become unsightly. The Rutgers Rain Garden was designed to demonstrate ways that rain gardens can be maintained more attractively with less work. Because rain gardens are meant to trap runoff from impermeable surfaces such as roofs, driveways and roads, they are usually located near those structures. This rain garden was designed to pipe water from collection areas, run through attractive water features and little waterfalls to the bog garden. Appropriate plants complete the design. A sign explains the rain garden concept. You can also read more about it at Rutgers Rain Garden page. You'll find an article about bog gardens and plants in my blog.

The Rhododendron Garden and Bamboo Garden have attracted visitors for many years. The former was established in the 1930 to accommodate plants of similar environmental needs in a plant community.


Unfortunately, my visit wasn't in spring when many of them would be in bloom. The Bamboo Garden was established in the 1950s to provide shelter for honey bees. As some bamboos spread by extensive underground rhizomes, they can be invasive. Just so has the Bamboo Garden grown. But it has also become a magical place to walk among what feels like a bit of the tropics in New Jersey.

I was so enchanted with the nearby Ornamental Tree Garden that I photographed nearly every one. There are magnificent specimens of extraordinary size and beauty. Check out these photos of American Hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana), American Hophornbeam (Ostrya virginiana), Persian Ironwood (Parrotia persica), the rare India Guassiawood (Picrassima guassioides), Winterberry Euonymus (Euonymus bungeana), Two-winged Silverbell (Halesia diptera), Mountain Silverbell (Halesia tetraptera var. monticola), Paperbark Maple (Acer griseum), Lavalle Cork Tree (Phellodendron amurense var. lavallei), Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum 'Burgundy Lace'), and Kousa Dogwood (Cornus kousa). As you know, ornamental trees are especially appropriate for the residential landscape, but they can grow much larger than one expects. Keep that in mind, especially if you intend to stay in one home for a long time.

This brief article barely begins to explore so many interesting aspects of The Rutgers Gardens. You really should see it for yourself. It's open to the public from 8:30am until dusk year around. Though no admission fee is charged, it is not funded by tax revenue. Rutgers Gardens depends upon friends for support.

Read other articles about public and private gardens.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Thursday, March 11, 2010

What Is Companion Planting?

Photo by rawpixel.com from Pexels

Companion planting is a gardening practice that operates on the idea that certain plants benefit one another when grown in close proximity.  The benefits can be one or several, and they fall into the following categories:

Distraction - Some plants are so attractive to certain pests that they draw the pests away from another crop.  The crop that is desirable to the pests is planted as a diversion and considered expendable so that the crop desired by the gardener is left alone.  It's like throwing ears of dried corn on the ground to keep squirrels out of your bird-feeders.

Suppression - Certain plants produce chemicals that repel pests, so they are planted in close proximity to desirable primary crops to ward off intruders.  This is like surrounding your home with an electric fence or poison ivy.

Symbiosis - Some species benefit mutually by the presence of another.  Interplanting pole beans and corn is a traditional example.   Beans fix nitrogen in the soil that benefits corn.  Corn provides support for the beans to grow upon.  It's kind of like a good marriage.

Nursing - Stronger plants may provide some protection to younger, sensitive crops until they can manage for themselves.  Here in the south, homeowners often plant annual rye grass along with centipede grass seed.  The rye grass germinates very quickly and provides some cover and erosion control until the centipede seed germinates several days or weeks later.

Physical Interaction - The physical characteristics of certain species may be mutually beneficial.  For example, tall-growing species may benefit from cooler soil temperatures provided by low-growing species growing below, while the low-growing plants benefit from the shade of the taller.

Diversity - Perhaps you've noticed while driving through farmland fields sown in strips of alternating crops.  Some farmers have learned that planting many acres of a single crop (called mono-cropping) presents pests with a huge, highly-visible target.  More diverse cropping can attract fewer pests.  The same principle holds true in your garden.

Refuge - Crop-eating pests are generally gluttonous creatures and thoughtless, "whose end is perdition, whose god is the belly."  (Philippians 3:19)  Too intent on the next meal, they aren't very mindful of dangers that may lurk.  Beneficial insects devour crop-eaters, and they lurk.  (That's why we call them "beneficial"; if they were bigger than we, they would be called something else.)  By growing plants nearby that provide habitat and hiding places to beneficials, the crop-eaters may meet their doom.

Companion planting requires some planning.  First, you need to know which plants make good companions; not all do.  Beans, for example, don't get along with onions, but tomatos and onions cooperate.  (Beans finally reconcile with onions in the pot, along with marjoram, lemon juice, olive oil and a dash of salt.)

Other important considerations include growing seasons, germination rates, and harvest times.

Companion planting will introduce you to a new way of gardening that can result in better yields, healthier living, and a lot of pleasure.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.