How To Make A Fairy Garden

When I was but a wee slip of a child, my aunt would take me to the edge of the woods to show me where fairies lived. We never actually saw fairies with wings and such, though she assured me they were watching us if they weren't sleeping.

Puck: Sometime a horse I'll be, sometime a hound,

A hog, a headless bear, sometime a fire;

And neigh, and bark, and grunt, and roar, and burn,

Like horse, hound, hog, bear, fire, at every turn.

- Shakespeare, A Midsummer Night's Dream

What's more, fairies can change form, so we weren't sure if the toads we sometimes uncovered were really fairies after all. Anyway, she showed me little pools of water where they swam, leaf tips where they showered, their dwellings in holes between tree roots, and fairy rings where they gathered after dark and danced the night away with wild abandon.

Fairies dancing with wild abandon.

Grown-ups tend to forget about fairies, but the magic can be rekindled and shared with others in a fairy garden. Here are some thoughts on how to make a fairy garden.

Fairy gardens are of two types: imaginary and real. Imaginary fairy gardens are those that you never actually expect fairies to visit. They're created for people to enjoy looking at. They are by far the safest. Real fairy gardens are created for the purpose of attracting fairies to visit and haunt. They have their differences, but both share many characteristics, which I'll mention as I go on.

Imaginary fairy gardens can be created just about anywhere, even in high-traffic areas like patios and decks, in containers and garden beds. But fairies like secrecy, so real fairy gardens must be situated in out-of-the-way places. That's one of the main differences.

Imaginary fairy gardens are often created to scale, sort of like the landscapes you'd see around model train sets. Scale is usually suggested by features like fairy statuary, structures and furnishings. Everything should look appropriate to the scale of the surroundings.

Do not think the fairies are always little. Everything is capricious about them, even their size. They seem to take what size or shape pleases them. 

-Yeats, Fairy and Folk Tales of the Irish Peasantry

Except for the fact that fairies are generally thought of as "wee folk", i.e. smaller than humans, they come in many sizes. Sometimes fairies can even change sizes at will, so scale is not so important with real fairy gardens.

Imaginary fairy garden.

Since imaginary fairy gardens aren't intended to be used by fairies, features such as hovels, furnishings, wishing wells, etc. don't need to be functional. For example, doors and windows may be painted on tree trunks. However, real fairy garden dwellings and furnishings, even if made of found objects, should be usable though simple.

Imaginary fairy gardens are created for viewing by people, so they're easier to be enjoyed if elevated like model train sets. Raised beds and container gardens are nice. Real fairy gardens need not be elevated, but may be. People may stand up, stumble upon or get down on their knees or bellies to peer into real fairy gardens. But, fairies are creatures like butterflies and birds, so vantage is not an issue for them.

Plants for imaginary fairy gardens should be chosen to suit the desired scale. All must be relatively small. They need not actually appeal to fairies. Choosing them requires some thought.

Trees and shrubs chosen to scale should be very small ones. Some dwarf shrubs may be trained as cute little trees, much like bonsai. Possible choices include:

• Ardisia - Ardisia crenata.
• Dwarf Arborvitae - Thuja occidentalis 'Caespitosa', Thuja occidentalis 'Danica', Thuja occidentalis 'Little Gem', Thuja occidentalis 'Pendula', Thuja plicata 'Cuprea'.
• Dwarf Azalea - Rhododendron impeditum.
• Dwarf Boxwood - Buxus microphylla var. japonica 'Morris Dwarf', Buxus sempervirens 'Blauer Heinz', Buxus sempervirens 'Suffruticosa'.
• Dwarf Crepe Myrtle - Lagerstroemia x 'World's Fair'.
• Dwarf Dogwood - Cornus canadensis.
• Dwarf Hinoki Cypress - Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Nana', Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Lutea Nana', Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Baby Blue'.
• Dwarf Japanese Cedar - Cryptomeria japonica 'Knaptonensis', Cryptomeria japonica 'Tansu'.
• Dwarf Juniper - Juniperus squamata 'Blue Starlite', Juniperus horizontalis 'Glauca', Juniperus procumbens 'Nana', Juniperus scopulorum 'Repens', Juniperus taxifolia var Lutchuensis.
• Dwarf Maple - Acer palmatum 'Ara tama', Acer palmatum 'Kandy Kitchen', Acer palmatum 'Mikawa Yatsabusa', Acer palmatum 'Murasaki Kiyohime', Acer palmatum 'Shaina'.
• Dwarf Pine - Pinus contorta 'Spaans Dwarf', Pinus mugo 'Gnom', Pinus mugo 'Valley Cushion', Pinus mugo 'Spring Snow', Pinus parviflora 'Adcocks Dwarf', Pinus sylvestris 'Kluis Pyramid'.
• Dwarf Spruce - Picea abies 'Coolwyn Globe', Picea abies 'Frohberg', Picea abies 'Pygmaea', Picea pungens 'Procumbens'.
• Rose - Rosa 'The Fairy', Rosa 'Noala', Rosa 'Interdust', Rosa 'Euphoria', Rosa 'Gwent'.
• Sand Myrtle - Leiophyllum buxifolium.

There are many ground covers suitable for imaginary fairy gardens. They include:

Lily of the Valley - Convallaria majalis

•  Ardisia - Ardisia japonica.
• CreepingThyme - Thymus citriodorus 'Archer's Gold', Thymus serpyllum 'Elfin', Thymus serpyllum 'Pink Chintz'.
• Daylily – Hemerocallis ‘Little Wart’, Hemerocallis 'Mini Stella', Hemerocallis 'Stella d' Oro', Hemerocallis 'Ruby Stella'.
• Ground moss - Thuidium delicatulum, Hypnum imponens, Leucobryum spp., Scleranthus biflorus.
• Lily Of The Valley - Convallaria majalis.
• Mazus - Mazus reptans.
• Mondo Grass - Ophiopogon japonicus 'Nana'.
• Sedum - Sedum acre var. aurea, Sedum hispanicum var. minus, Sedum makinoi 'Limelight', Sedum makinoi 'Ogon', Sedum spurium 'Dragon's Blood', Sedum spurium 'Fuldaglut', Sedum spurium 'John Creech', Sedum tetractinum.
• Spike Moss - Selaginella kraussiana, Selaginella moellendorffii, Selaginella tamariscina, Selaginella uncinata.
• Wintergreen - Gaultheria procumbens.
• Yarrow - Achillea millefolia, Achillea x 'Oertel's Rose'.
  

Appropriate flower bulbs include:

Bluebell - Hyacinthoides

• Anemone - Anemone blanda.
• Bluebell - Hyacinthoides spp.
• Crocus - Crocus spp.
• Cyclamen - Cyclamen hederifolium.
• Fairy Lily, Rain Flower, Zephyr Lily - Zephyranthes spp.
• Fritillary - Fritillaria meleagris, Fritillaria michailovskyi.
• GrapeHyacinth - Muscari spp.
• HardyGloxinia - Incarvillea delavayi.
• Iris - I. danfordiae, I. histrioides, I. reticulata, I. cristata.
• Lily - Lilium 'Butter Pixie', Lilium 'Crimson Pixie', Lilium 'Denia Pixie', Lilium 'Orange Pixie'.
• Narcissus - 'Baby Moon', 'Hawera', 'Jenny', 'Jetfire', 'Pipit', 'Tete a Tete', 'Thalia'.
• Shamrock - Oxalis spp.
• Snowdrops - Galanthus spp.
• Snowflake - Leucojum spp.
• Squill - Scilla spp., Pushkinia spp.
• StarFlower - Ipheion uniflorum.
• Star-Of-Bethelem - Ornithogalum spp.
• Summer Hyacinth - Galtonia spp.
• Tritelia - Tritelia laxa.
• TroutLily, Dog-Tooth Violet - Erythronium spp.
• Tulip - Tulipa bakeri 'Lilac Wonder', Tulipa batalinii 'Bright Gem' and 'Red Gem', Tulipa hageri 'Little Beauty', Tulipa linifolia, Tulipa x 'Little Princess'.
• Winter Aconite - Eranthis hyemalis.

You don't have to be so careful choosing plants for a real fairy garden, for real fairies don't care much about landscaping fashion and design to be happy. All they need are rudimentary things, which they can find for themselves. But they can be lured, if you dare, to inhabit places nearby where you can enjoy them or, at least, hope they appreciate your hospitality.

Fairies favor quiet and hidden places, shade, fungi, holes in the ground between tree roots, small still water puddles like seeps or those in the hollows of big magnolia petals and leaves, foxgloves, coral bells, columbine, violets, ferns, lavender, forget-me-nots, rosemary, and nearly whatever appeals to you, too. They don't need freshly washed pillows and sheets.

I feel I should mention the matter of invasive species, human, plant and otherwise.

Imaginary fairy gardens are sure to draw human visitors. They may outstay their welcomes. That's something you'll have to deal with.

Whether plants are invasive depends on whether they stay where you want them. Ground covers do what they do best; they cover ground. Introduced species are often maligned, but native species are not always benign. The choice is yours. Keep them in check.

Real fairy gardens don't take much work for real fairies don't care much. They seldom pay attention to us unless they're annoyed. Fairies, especially of the Seelie Court, may be benevolent, but they can be charming and bothersome like devils.

Puck: Up and down, up and down,

I will lead them up and down:

I am fear'd in field and town:

Goblin, lead them up and down.

- Shakespeare, A Midsummer Night's Dream

They can cause us to wonder too much, doubt ourselves, mess with our minds, tempt us to believe bad is good. Take care; know they're there. 

If they become invasive, place an iron fence around your yard.

...he made the sign of the cross and bid them begone in God's name, and held his wife as if it was iron his arms were made of. Bedad, in one moment everything was as silent as the grave...

- Andrew Lang, The Lilac Fairy Book, The Fairy Nurse

And he shall rule them with a rod of iron, and as the vessel of a potter they shall be broken...

                                                                  - Revelation 2:27      

Fairies will not go near iron.

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Behind A Garden Wall: Ecotat Gardens and Arboretum

As stated on the Ecotat Gardens and Arboretum website, "The mission of Ecotat Trust is to preserve and expand the gardens and trails for the enjoyment and use of future generations. The name 'Ecotat' was formed by combining portions of the words 'ecological' and 'habitat' - words describing the 91 acres of land located on Route 2 in Hermon, Maine, at the intersection with Annis Road at the top of Miller Hill." With that information, a Google map and GPS in hand, we found it.

CityProfile describes the Ecotat Gardens and Arboretum as "one of the most beautiful gardens in Maine." That's stretching it a lot. It's a former homestead, a small place maintained by volunteers. More volunteers are apparently needed. The place appears run-down, but there is some charm, somewhat like exploring a great-aunt's back yard out in the country. Lovely perennials mixed with grass and weeds, like irises with dandelions and lamiastrum with poison ivy, and ferns spread beneath trees and around old farm tools.

She would be an imaginative aunt. The landscape features a fairy garden with small plants and statuary. A raised bed presents a miniature landscape with a fairy house made of a tree knot, carved and roofed, with steps to a winding gravel path. The path leads through mosses, miniature spruces and tiny forbs to an itty-bitty gazebo, its roof caved in.

Comfrey, lupines, false solomon's seal, convallaria, tulips and johnny-jump-ups, european ginger, pig-squeak and blood-root seem to grow where ever they want, or where ever they were dropped or planted. As with any old homestead, you'll find bird houses atop leaning poles, arbors and some appealing statuary. Someone even included an allee or two.

A couple of trails wind through ferny woods and skunk cabbage. Somewhere along Tom's Trail, it's plain where Tom stopped working a long time ago, leaving his gloves and buckets of debris to mold. From that point, the trail is not so well-defined. Though we walked on a bit, growing swarms of mosquitoes forced us back.

Ecotat Gardens and Arboretum is definitely a work in progress going on eighteen-plus years. Progress is slow. Blog readers who live in the area might consider contacting Ecotat to volunteer their services. Many of the links on the Ecotat Home Page don't function, but the phone numbers might work.

After taking a few more photos, we strolled through a decrepit apple orchard, the ground littered with fallen apple petals to the car.

Would I recommend you visit Ecotat Gardens and Arboretum? Sure. It's sweet and nostalgic, kind of like stepping back in time to visit your old aunt.

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Why did my terra cotta pots break in winter?

Photo by Fancycrave.com from Pexels

Q. I moved from Florida to Vermont last summer. I planted some evergreen junipers and arborvitae in terra cotta pots. All of the pots broke during winter. Why?

A. More than likely the pots broke due to freezing temperatures. Moisture in the potting soil and in the terra cotta containers expands when frozen. Terra cotta will break easily when the moisture expands. I suggest you use containers made of more forgiving materials such as wood, rubber, plastic, fiberglass, metal or glazed clay.

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Where can I find information about local garden events when I'm traveling?

Photo Credit: Erika Phillips

Q. Where can I find information about local garden events when I'm traveling?

A. I've added new pages to this blog that have information that should help you. GoGardenNow: Botanical Garden Events and GoGardenNow: Garden Club News will show a few events that I've learned about while surfing the web. The events are open to the public, so far as I know.

GoGardenNow: Gardening Resources presents a list of organizations and agencies along with their web links. If you're traveling, I particularly recommend you check out the American Horticultural Society Garden Directory. Find botanical gardens to visit, and save money with the AHS Reciprocal Admissions Program.

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Can I dump used coffee grounds in my garden?

Photo by Buenosia Carol from Pexels

Q. Can I dump used coffee grounds in my garden?

A. Instead of dumping used coffee grounds in the trash or washing into the garbage disposal, you can add them to your compost pile. They've been pulverized into tiny bits, so they will decompose rapidly.

You can also sprinkle coffee grounds around acid-loving plants such as azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons, gardenias and blueberries. A quarter-inch application every month or so will help to keep the soil a little on the acidic side.

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BREAKING NEWS: European Commission to criminalize nearly all seeds and plants not registered with government.

This is shocking news. According to Mike Adams, the Health Ranger, Editor of NaturalNews.com, a new law proposed by the European Commission would require the registration all seeds and plants. Possession and use of all those not registered would be illegal. "Home gardeners who grow their own plants from non-regulated seeds would be considered criminals under this law."  Learn more: http://www.naturalnews.com/040214_seeds_European_Commission_registration.html#ixzz2ScHQFEZE

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Must-Have Plants: Achillea 'Desert Eve' (TM) Red

Must-have plants are among the best plants for appropriate garden situations. When you need great garden plants for ground cover, naturalizing, wildflower gardens, perennial borders, butterfly gardens, hummingbird gardens, herb gardens, heritage gardens, cutting gardens, woodland gardens, shade gardens, bulb gardens, container gardens, bog gardens, water gardens, rain gardens or xeriscaping, look for the best among our must-have plants.

Name(s): Achillea 'Desert Eve' (TM) Red, Yarrow, Milfoil, Staunchweed, Sanguinary, Thousandleaf, Soldier's Woundwort

Flower Color: Red

Bloom Time: June to September

Foliage: Herbaceous, gray-green, fragrant.

Height/Spread: 12 inches to 18 inches x 12 inches to 18 inches.

Climate Zones: 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9

Sun Exposure: Full sun, partial shade.

Soil Condition: Well-drained to dry, average to poor, pH 5.6 to 7.5

Features: Drought tolerant, deer resistant, fragrant.

Uses: Xeriscaping, massed planting, naturalizing, cutting gardens, butterfly gardens, herb gardens, perennial borders.

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Why and how you should add Epsom salt to your garden.

Image: Public Domain

Q. "Why and how should I add Epsom salt to my garden?" is a question I'm frequently asked.

A. Epsom salt is magnesium sulfate. Magnesium is important for producing chlorophyll and fruit. It also strengthens cell walls and improves plants' absorption of vital nutrients such as sulfur, nitrogen and phosphorus.

Sulfur is vital to plant growth. It helps plants produce enzymes, vitamins and amino acids.

Magnesium deficiency may be difficult to detect without taking a soil sample. Some plants such as roses, tomatoes and peppers exhibit deficiencies more readily than others. Common symptoms include yellowed or misshapen leaves and stunting.

Magnesium is often deficient in soils with alkaline pH, high potassium and calcium content. Take a soil sample to your regional Cooperative Extension Service for testing. It's the best way to determine whether your soil needs magnesium. If the test shows severe magnesium deficiency, the service may recommend addition of dolomite lime to the soil. But don't rely on dolomite lime alone to correct the problem. Add Epsom salt, too. If the soil test shows adequate magnesium along with high potassium and calcium content, you should still add Epsom salt to your garden.

Epsom salt has the advantage over other sources of magnesium because it is highly soluble. The salt granules can be sprinkled around plants. Diluted with water, the Epsom salt solution can be poured around plants or sprayed on their leaves. The foliar spray delivers maximum rapid results.

How much Epsom salt you should apply depends on the size of the plant and the method of application. Vegetables such as tomatoes and peppers benefit from 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt granules at planting time. Sprinkle the granules around the transplants. Larger plants such as roses and shrubs will benefit from 1/2 cup of granules applied in spring and again in fall. Depending on plant size, apply 1/2 cup to 1 cup of granules around grape vines, fruit and nut trees at the drip line because that's where the feeder roots are. The drip line is the outer circumference of the leaf canopy.

For foliar spray, add 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt per gallon of water. Apply generously two or three times during the growing season.

Gardeners often report better plant color, stronger growth, improved fruit set, better tasting fruits and vegetables. Epsom salt applied to tomatoes may help to prevent blossom-end rot.

Epsom salt can be purchased at grocery and drug stores.

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How To Choose A Lawn Service Company

Q. I'm thinking about using a new lawn service company in town. Do you have any advice?

A. Yes, I do. Here are some thoughts in no particular order.

• Have you been quoted the lowest price in town? Maybe the owner doesn't know how to price the services. Give the company a chance. Try it out on a month-to-month basis. Don't sign a long-term contract. If you're not satisfied, discuss it with the owner. Don't expect blue-ribbon service if you're only paying for "mow, blow and go." You should get service commensurate for what you pay. If you get big promises and unsatisfactory service at any price, forget about it. That business won't be around for long.

• Is the company advertised as "licensed and insured"? It could mean he only has a driver's license and required liability insurance on the truck. Ask questions. Request documents.

• Does the company offer pesticide control? It should be licensed by your state. Check to make sure. Ask for documents.

• Are the company employees trustworthy? Illegality is a big issue, but time will tell. The burden of proof shouldn't be on your shoulders.
   
• Is the lawn service company owned by an established garden center or franchise? Establishment is a good thing, but is no guarantee.  Ask friends and acquaintances if they've had experiences with the service. Check reviews online, but be suspicious. Competitors sometimes post bad reviews.
   
• Does the company advertise "organic" and/or "sustainable" lawn care practices? Double-check that. Those words are way overused. Does the company mow your grass with scythes? Ask for details.

• Do you know who to call for a quick response? Make friends with the business owner. If you can't call someone any time day or night (like when your irrigation system has been cut and looks like a geyser in the middle of the night) and get a response pretty soon, you should find another lawn service company.

• Once you've made a wise choice, be fair. Don't short-change the lawn service company.

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Behind A Garden Wall: Ravine Gardens State Park, Palatka, Florida

Court Of States, Ravine Gardens, Courtesy of Boston Public Library

A trip to Florida excites me as much now as when I was a child, so I was delighted when my son suggested we head south to visit a couple of Florida's state parks. They included Ravine Gardens State Park in Palatka and Mike Roess Gold Head Branch State Park near Keystone Heights, both known for their botanical wonders.

Florida advertises its state parks as "the Real Florida." Whether more real than the rest, I won't argue. But Florida's state parks certainly possess an authenticity hard to find elsewhere in the state. For example, fresh water fountains at a constant 72 degrees F temperature actually spring naturally from the ground, not only from recirculating pumps. And beasts are not cartoon characters. So, along with nostalgic scenes, the Florida State Parks are mighty appealing.

The ravine at Palatka, shaped something like a boomerang, is theorized to have been formed over millenia by artesian springs emerging under sandy ridges near the western bank of the St. John's River.  It was an ideal spot. Aboriginal Timucuans inhabited the area for Lord only knows how long, hunting, farming and fishing for sustenance in innocent, edenic tranquility. Then the Spanish arrived. It's said they were looking for land, riches, a fountain of youth, ways to outflank the French and English, and converts to Catholicism. Anyway, by the mid-eighteenth century, the Timucuans were extinct. Disappointed Spanish retreated.

After the Timucuans and Spanish, enterprising Creeks (Seminoles) and English arrived. Entrepreneurs, idealists, hopefuls, destitutes, rascals and slaves contributed to the building of Palatka, Florida, founded in 1821. Some of the big names, like Denys Rolle's, are retained in maps and nearby landmarks with Denys Rolle's name. Actually, the ravine used to belong to Denys Rolle, Esqr. (Look for the boomerang on the map.) Palatka's colorful history is well worth reading about.

The growing town needed lots of water, so the Palatka Water Works plant was built in 1886 at the lower end of the ravine. Until 1986, the water works supplied up to a million gallons of pure water per day to the city.

The country's response to national economic hardship (The Great Depression) in the 1930s brought about the Works Progress Administration. The WPA enlisted millions of unemployed Americans to perform public projects. Ravine Gardens was one result. The 59-acre garden was planted with over 95,000 azaleas, 11,000 palms, and over 250,000 other ornamentals. It was described in the 1934 Florida Municipal Record as the "Nations Outstanding C.W.A. project." The gardens were maintained by the city until given over to the state in 1970.

Old postcards advertised Ravine Gardens as picture-perfect. Perhaps it was. Picturesque stone-walled terraces invited rest. Winding paths suggested gentle strolls. The splash of an ornamental waterwheel reminded visitors of a time not so long ago. Flowers were always in bloom.

Today's approach to Ravine Gardens State Park leads through a residential/small business neighborhood and past a school, none of which look too promising. In fact, I thought we were lost, but my son's trusty GPS app assured us we were on the correct street.

Cat's-Claws (Macfadyena unguis-cati)

The entrance to Ravine Gardens State Park is constructed of fossil-rich native stone. In fact, native stone is used in most of the original structures. Stone-columned pergolas are still draped with flowers. There are coral honeysuckles (Lonicera sempervirens), cat's-claws (Macfadyena unguis-cati) and crossvines (Bignonia capreolata) flanking the Court of the States. Front and center, a large obelisk honoring President Franklin D. Roosevelt is still there.

The park consists of a formal garden, an office/visitor center complex, a playground and fitness area, several trails around and into the ravine, a picnic pavilion, an amphitheater, several walking trails and a 1.8 mile perimeter road.

To get an overview, we began the driving tour around the perimeter of the park, but stopped along the way to inspect interesting things. As it turns out, that's the best way to see the park. Come to an overlook or trail crossing, park the car, get out and walk, return, drive to another and repeat.

Springs Trail, Ravine Gardens

From the first overlook, we meandered the circuitous Springs Trail (0.6 miles). Towering palms, hardwoods and bamboo darkened the fern-lined walk. I felt like an explorer in a jungle. Bird songs and the gurgling sound of springs were enchanting. By and by we came to a delightful glade divided by a stream. What I mistook to be naturally bubbling fountains turned out to be two recirculating water pumps strategically sited to enhance the scene.

Since it is an intentional garden planted in a natural ravine, you'll find native and introduced species growing together. Begonia, Angelica and ginger lily (Hedychium) thrive near water dragon (Saururus cernuus) and royal fern (Osmunda regalis). Sword ferns (Nephrolepis cordifolia), netted chainferns (Woodwardia areolata), cinnamon ferns (Osmunda cinnamomea)  and southern woodferns (Dryopteris ludoviciana) flourish in the damp seeps. Elephant ears (Colocasia spp.) wave above rippling streams. Citrus trees with their edible ornaments dangle over shrubby palms and shrimp plants (Justicia brandegeeana). The ravine protects many tender plants from damaging cold, though some of the banana trees looked like they had been nipped by frost.

Forest canopy, Ravine Gardens

The park drive and overlooks provide many alluring views into the ravine. From above, the towering canopy reminded me of scenes from those old Tarzan movies starring Johnny Weismuller. All seemed right in my world. (What happened to my Johnny Weismuller autograph, anyway?)

For another delightful elevated view, we descended into the ravine to cross a suspension bridge surrounded by cypresses and their knees (Taxodium spp.). It won't matter how old I grow, I'll never lose the fascination with swinging bridges. I've crossed many and I can recall nearly all of them. Strangely, the most inebriating are best remembered.

We passed up walking the Azalea Trail (0.8 miles). Azalea season was over, though some straggling flowers splashed the forest with fading "red family" hues. Unfortunately, most of the azalea shrubs seem straggly, in need of pruning and brush removal.

Garden designers included an amphitheater. Who builds amphitheaters any more? As it turns out, Mike Roess Gold Head Branch State Park, built by the WPA, also has an amphitheatre. Perhaps those are remnants of a time when entertainment was more community oriented, long before the age of solitary play with i-things.

After returning to the parking lot, we strolled through the formal garden, stumbling upon a wedding almost in progress. The bride was beautiful, as all brides are. Typically, the bridesmaids barely or over-filled their ultramarine dresses, but guests and consorts encouraged each and every one with many compliments.

Detouring around the party, we returned to a cypress-shaded reflecting pool we had driven past earlier. Several couples lazed about on the dappled lawn. Even without the waterwheel, the scene was recognizable and pleasant, but not as bucolic.

Fairies at Ravine Gardens State Park

Gardens such as these are very popular spots for photography, therefore the management posts signs warning against anything beyond snap-shooting without a permit. Probably with permission, a bridal couple was captured for posterity in one setting. A pair of sprites, on cue, paused to adore their "faire" reflections from a bridge.

I already mentioned the Palatka Water Works. Since it is close-by, it seemed worth seeing, and was. I'm ever amazed at how past architects and designers ornamented the most utilitarian structures and tools. Though not extravagant, even the Palatka Water Works brickwork and roofing have their charm. The Coffin Valve Company's monogram lends dignity to a common fire hydrant. (Incidentally, some are still in use in Palatka.) The disused tanks and sediment basins with cattails even have a sentimental quality. Home, sweet frog home. What had fallen into ruin is now a small museum and community education center. A wildflower garden suggests how nearby residents can transform their landscapes.

Wildflower Garden

A historical marker near the Garden Club Of Palatka's club house reminds visitors that William Bartram (1739-1823), naturalist and botanist, once explored this area. His route is known as the William Bartram Trail. The garden didn't exist at the time, but the ravine did. Perhaps he delved into it.

Though I grew up in a family including herbalists, horticulturists, florists and gardeners, I like to think that those childhood trips to Florida also contributed to my interest in flora. Even ubiquitous species like coontie (Zamia spp.), ferns, bromeliads and cast iron plants (Aspidistra elatior) still fascinate me. God willing, I'll take many more trips to Florida to search for interesting gardens, plants, and paradise.

Ravine Gardens, Courtesy of Boston Public Library

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Trees Can Be Weeds.

Q. I want a nice lawn, but it's hard to grow grass in my back yard. The landscape service manager says there is too much shade and I should let him cut down some trees. He says some aren't worth keeping, but I love my trees. What do you think?

A. Apparently, if you want a turf grass lawn, you're going to have to remove some trees. Your case reminds me of a friend who retired from his law practice in Paris, France to rural southeast Georgia. He thought Paris had too few trees. His new home landscape was full of trees, mostly longleaf pines (Pinus palustris), water oaks (Quercus nigra) and black cherries (Prunus serotina). Many of the oaks and cherries were diseased and malformed. I tried in vain to convince him that some of those oaks and cherries were weeds regardless of size and age, and they needed to go. "They're magnificent," he exclaimed.

I'd like to convince you, too. According to Merriam-Webster.com, a weed is "a plant that is not valued where it is growing and is usually of vigorous growth; especially: one that tends to overgrow or choke out more desirable plants." Size and age doesn't matter. Perhaps you should consider removing your big weed trees. If in doubt, get a couple of opinions from experts who can personally examine your situation.

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FAQ: Is it okay to add paper to my composter? I was told that paper could be poisonous.

Q. Is it okay to add paper to my composter? I was told that paper could be poisonous.

A. Yes, it is okay to add paper. Some inks used to contain heavy metals, but that is very seldom the case nowadays.

When composting paper, there are a few other things you should consider.

The composting process requires air circulation. Flat sheets do not allow enough air to circulate between them, therefore the paper should be shredded.

Do not use paper that is mixed with anything not compostable. For example, my paper shredder has a slot where I can run old credit cards through it. Those bits of plastic added to the composter and finally to my garden would eventually fill the planting bed with sharp little objects to pierce my flesh.

Even shredded paper, if added in large quantities, may be difficult to compost. Be sure to mix the paper with other organic materials.

Don't forget to stir the compost occasionally.

My other articles about composting include other important tips.

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How To Make Bird Watching Easy For The Elderly

We're visiting my 90-year old mother-in-law. She loves watching daily game shows and wild birds from her comfy chair. Watching her watching them, I'm thinking what I might suggest or do to make her life and those of her care-givers easier and pleasanter.

I'd begin by turning off the game shows, but that would only benefit me. The benefits should be mutual. Besides, I'm just visiting.

I turn my attention to our bird-watcher and the wild birds.

Mom is basically confined to the upper floor of her split-level home. Two bird feeders are suspended by wires from gutters so they are visible through her living room window. One is a long tube feeder. The suet feeder is a simple single-cake cage.

Some bird-watchers delight in all God's creatures. Others prefer some over others. Mom loves most, but discriminates against grackles, cowbirds and starlings. Today we've been visited by many species, including grackles, cowbirds and starlings. When the undesirables appear, Mom strikes the window glass with the end of her cane to scare them off. Of course, all the birds fly away for a few moments. Then they all come back. At this moment, the pests are ganging up on the feeders while titmice and cardinals, crestfallen, wait on nearby branches.

I'm considering whether anything should be done about this. The disadvantages of the voracious bullies are that they aggravate her, eat too much bird food, and intimidate the smaller birds. The advantage is they keep Mom exercising by swinging her cane, though she notes she is weakening and can't "raise cane" like she used to.

We bought the tube feeder for her several years ago because it has a greater capacity. Since my brother-in-law is usually the one who maintains it, we figured he wouldn't have to refill it so often. She complains he doesn't refill it often enough.  It was empty this morning.  I filled it not two hours ago.  About one-third has been eaten already. At this rate I'll have to fill it again before nightfall.

Birds enjoy water as much as food, and it's fun to watch them drink and bathe. A hanging bird bath would be the ticket.

The feeders are reached by climbing a 6' step-ladder. That inconvenience alone is a discouragement from frequent refilling.

Here are a few ideas to make bird-watching more accessible and pleasant for the elderly, and to make life easier for their care-givers.

Provide high capacity bird feeders so they don't have to be refilled so often. The greater the capacity the better. Though larger feeders cost more, the benefits far outweigh their expense.

If your elderly friend or relative has limited mobility, place feeders within easy view of their bed or favorite chair. Some open-tray feeders and suet cages can be mounted directly on window glass with suction cups. Others can be mounted on brackets at window sill level.

Whether they will be refilled by themselves or their caregivers, feeders should be positioned for easy refilling. Feeders near ground level don't present many problems, but elevated ones do. Hanging feeders and those mounted on or under windows might be placed within easy reach of  open windows. If that's not possible or wise, perhaps a system of cords and pulleys can make  hanging feeders easier to manipulate from the ground.

Bird baths provide more pleasure for the birds as well as for bird-watchers. Pedestal-mounted baths are well-known and popular. Deck-mounted baths are specially suited for condominium and apartment residents. Hanging bird baths are perfect for placing near windows for easy viewing.

For a special treat, consider purchasing a window-mounted bird house. These have open backs and are usually attached to the glass with suction cups. They're great for watching nesting birds right up close.

If you discriminate against some species, there are lots of deterrents on the market. Common pests include squirrels and aggressive birds like those I mentioned before.

"Squirrel-Buster" tube feeders are very effective, as are those with "baffles" such as the Birds Choice NP431 Pole Mounted Tube Feeder.

Hot Pepper Suet Cakes and Logs repel squirrels. Birds apparently don't notice or mind the heat.

Cages and roofs mounted on open-tray feeders exclude squirrels and larger birds. Window-mounted open-tray feeders are often available complete with cages and roofs.

Next time you visit a senior friend or relative, give a thought to how you could make bird-watching more accessible and pleasant. They, the birds and you will benefit.

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How To Clean A Plastic Tube Bird Feeder

Squirrel Buster Tube Feeder

Q. I have a plastic tube bird feeder that needs to be cleaned. Got any tips?

A. Besides looking dirty, tube feeders can develop bacteria and mold that will infect the seed. That can't be good for the birds.

Wear latex gloves to protect your hands from germs and cleaning liquid. Disassemble your feeder following the manufacturer's instructions. Shake out any loose seed.

Fill a 5 gallon bucket with 10 quarts of water and 1 quart of bleach. Submerge the feeder and scrub it inside and out with a stiff bottle brush. A small toothbrush can be used to scrub tight areas.

Every part of the feeder should be cleaned and disinfected. Rinse each part thoroughly after cleaning, then dry them separately with a clean, soft cloth. Set them aside to completely air dry before reassembling.

That should do it. Your feeder will last longer, look better, and your birds will be healthier.

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Must-Have Plants: Astilbe 'Fanal'

Must-have plants are among the best plants for appropriate garden situations. When you need great garden plants for ground cover, naturalizing, wildflower gardens, perennial borders, butterfly gardens, hummingbird gardens, herb gardens, heritage gardens, cutting gardens, woodland gardens, shade gardens, bulb gardens, container gardens, bog gardens, water gardens, rain gardens or xeriscaping, look for the best among our must-have plants.

Astilbe 'Fanal' flowers seem to glitter in the summer shade garden. The tall, frothy blooms of deep red drift above waves of bronze-green foliage. It's a fine choice for naturalizing in woodland gardens.

Name(s): Astilbe x arendsii 'Fanal', False Spirea, False Goat's Beard

Flower Color: Dark red

Bloom Time: Mid-summer

Foliage: Herbaceous, green, fern-like

Height/Spread: 12 inches to 18 inches x 12 inches to 18 inches.

Climate Zones: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8

Sun Exposure: Full sun to partial shade.

Soil Condition: Moist to well-drained, loamy, pH 5.6 to 7.5

Features: Lacy flowers, fern-like foliage.

Uses: Massed planting, naturalizing, perennial borders, woodland gardens, shade gardens.

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FAQ: If planted in full shade will Variegated Liriope revert to all green?

Q. If planted in full shade, will Variegated Liriope revert to all green?

A. Planting in full shade won't cause Liriope muscari 'Variegata' to revert to green. It can revert to green, but it doesn't happen often. Variegation can be caused by several factors. It can be caused by virus. It can be communicated mechanically. Viral variegation tends to develop in irregular patterns, and it often affects the growth habit of the plant.

Genetic variegation occurs when cells produce little or no green pigment. This can be hereditary or occur as random mutations. Sections of plants that have randomly mutated are called "sports." The accompanying photo shows a section of Trachelospermum jasminoides that is "sporting." "Sports" can be propagated vegetatively. Random mutation appears in new growth, and tends to be regular and consistent in appearance. "Sporting" will not proceed into old tissue and change the appearance of the parent plant. Random genetic variegation can reverse itself in subsequent new tissue. The non-pigmented cells may or may not be sensitive to sun exposure.

Variegation can appear when air pockets develop under the outer layers of leaf tissue. This is actually a form of genetic variegation.

Liriope muscari 'Variegata' is a result of random genetic mutation. Since the genetic factor that caused variegation in the first place can reverse itself, new shoots from a variegated liriope parent can come out green, but that's not a sun/shade exposure issue.

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Stoke's Aster - A Sensible Plant Named For A Lunartick

Stokesia laevis (Stoke's Aster)

Stokesia laevis, also known as Carthamus laevis, Stoke's Aster and Cornflower Aster, is an heirloom plant you may remember seeing in your grandmother's garden. Many hard-working women of yesteryear had no time for fussy flowers. Today's overwhelmed gardeners aren't much different. Perhaps that's why Stoke's Aster was and is so popular. It's a beautiful, sensible, low maintenance plant.

According to the USDA PLANTS database, Stoke's Aster is native to the southeastern United States, generally found growing in the coastal plain. Native plants are perfectly suited to their environments. That's why they're native. Ubiquitous native plants are ignored. Undesirable native plants are called "weeds." Attractive native plants are called "ornamentals", collected and transplanted to gardens. Perhaps that explains why Stoke's Aster ended up in my grandmothers' flower beds.

Stokesia (pronounced "sto-KEES-ee-ah") was named for Dr. Jonathan Stokes (c. 1755 - 1831). Stokes was an English physician and botanist. Historically, physicians tended to be botanists because doctors relied on plants for their medicinal qualities. They usually corresponded with others about their findings, and often published them. This was the case with Dr. Stokes.

As a member of the original Lunar Society, Stokes often met and corresponded with fellows to discuss science, philosophy and whatever else mattered. Apparently, the Lunar Society was so-named because the members met at night under the full moon. The moonlight made nocturnal travels easier. Eventually, the members were known as "lunarticks", an appellation they merrily embraced. Their convivial society was beneficial personally and professionally.

Jonathan Stokes published books on botany including A Botanical Materia Medica: Consisting of the Generic and Specific Characters of the Plants Used in Medicine and Diet, with Synonyms, and References to Medical Authors (1812) and Botanical Commentaries (1830). Botanical Commentaries would be most interesting to the layman.

Stokesia flowers appear from spring to fall. They're about 3 inches in diameter and usually purple, though colors may range to pinkish and nearly white. They are borne on strong stems. They're long-lasting, too.

Foliage is herbaceous. The plant rosette may remain green during winter months in warmer climates. Leaf surfaces are smooth. Plants grow to 12 inches height and spread from 12 to 15 inches.

Stoke's Aster is hardy in USDA climate zones 5 through 10. They thrive in full sun to partial shade, but flowering is most profuse in full sun. Plant in well-drained, loamy to sandy loam soil with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.5. Take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Office for analysis. If stokesias fail, the problem can usually be traced to poor drainage or too little sun exposure.

Stokesia laevis is best known for colorful, long-lasting flowers. In addition, the flowers attract butterflies. Plants are deer-resistant, drought-tolerant and somewhat salt-tolerant.

Stoke's Aster, a perennial plant, is well-suited to garden borders, butterfly gardens, cut flower gardens and xeriscaping.

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Two new AAS Bedding Plant Award Winners for 2013

All-America Selections just announced two new AAS Bedding Plant Award Winners for 2013. Both are zinnias.

Zinnia 'Profusion Double Deep Salmon'

About Zinnia ‘Profusion Double Deep Salmon’, AAS says "an abundance of salmon colored double flowers cover attractive, compact plants from late spring through fall. In trials the dramatic double blooms offered a unique salmon color that held the color better and later into the season than the comparisons. The bright foliage covers spent blossoms giving a much fresher appearance without the need to deadhead. Mature plants are 8-14 inches tall and are perfect as a low or medium height divider. This outstanding garden performer offers disease resistance to both Alternaria and powdery mildew."

Zinnia 'Profusion Double Hot Cherry'

AAS says, "‘Double Hot Cherry’ offers an abundance of vivid deep-rose double flowers. This continuous bloomer covers well-mounded plants from late spring through fall. In trials the dramatic large double blooms held the color significantly better than comparisons and later into the season. The plant covers spent blossoms giving a much fresher appearance without deadheading. Mature plants 8-14 inches tall are perfect as a low or medium height divider. This excellent garden performer also offers disease resistance to Alternaria and powdery mildew."

Both winners were bred by Sakata Seed Corporation.

AAS winners are grown beside two or three similar varieties already on the market. The AAS Judges grow them, then do a side-by-side analysis of growth habit, disease resistance and more to determine if the new ones are truly better than those currently available to home gardeners. Only superior plants are granted the honor of an AAS Award.

Be sure to give Zinnia 'Profusion Double Deep Salmon' and Zinnia 'Profusion Double Hot Cherry' places in your garden. Seed and bedding plants should be available at your local garden center.

Images are courtesy of All-America Selections.

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Behind A Garden Wall: Armstrong Atlantic State University Arboretum

In her characteristic languorous drawl, a friend from Savannah suggested, "Armstrong Atlantic State University has a marvelous arboretum. You simply must visit." So I did.

I don't think I've visited the campus more than twice during the last forty-some years since I matriculated there. When I arrived at Armstrong Atlantic State University, I was a bit confused. Some drives had been closed, others had been re-directed, I couldn't find a legal place to park, and I couldn't find the arboretum. I found the University Police Office to ask.

Providing me with a map, the officer pointed to visitor parking areas and the "location of the arboretum." Unfortunately, the map didn't clearly show a route re-direction, so I drove about confused. I finally hailed a university pickup truck to ask the driver where I might find the arboretum. The man with the graying ponytail said, "You're in it. The entire campus is the arboretum."

Have you ever noticed that unless you intend to visit for 15 minutes or less, visitor parking at universities tend to be in inconvenient locations? Of course, administrators' parking spaces are very near their office doors, faculty and staff might be in the vicinity of their classrooms; student parking is way beyond that. I found a parking space on the outskirts and set out on foot to enjoy the arboretum.

There is no particular place to begin a visit to the Armstrong Arboretum. No matter where you park you're in the arboretum. Walk to whatever catches your eye, but "Please Stay On Sidewalks."

I began humming, "sign, sign, everywhere a sign..." When I was in college, students were warned repeatedly to stay off the grass. But faculty didn't stay off grass, so there wasn't a convincing reason to comply.

Though sidewalks existed, most of us took short-cuts across lawns to our classrooms creating dirt trails (sometimes blocked by signs, ropes or chains), over which laborers would eventually pour more concrete walks where they should have been in the first place. Armstrong Arboretum's landscape designer has creatively solved the problem in the Quad by establishing expansive beds planted with large shrubs and cleverly obstructed by chains.

As in most arboreta, species are identified with permanent signs. But, unless one ignores the signs to stay on the sidewalk, some plant labels can't be read. I didn't stay on the sidewalks. I was prepared to answer any challenge saying, "That doesn't apply to me now. I'm an alumnus, and a professional."

Developed areas of the Armstrong Atlantic State University Aboretum make good use of native species including live oak (Quercus virginiana), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora) and yaupon holly (Ilex vomitoria), as well as introduced species from around the world. There is, however, the International Garden which only majors on plants from Asia and Australasia. Species include Kerosene Bush (Ozothamnus ledifolius), Lomatia myricoides, Bauhinia yunnanensis, Akebia trifoliata, Camellia sinensis and Pawlonia tomentosa.

The Conifer Garden is worth a visit. Surrounded by native pines, there are interesting varieties of Chamaecyparis obtusa and C. pisifera, Thuja, Juniperus, Pinus and Cryptomeria. Juniperus conferta 'All Gold' and Cryptomeria japonica 'Black Dragon' are two of my favorites.

Clerodendrum x speciosum

It seems that every available wall is draped with flowering vines. Remarkable specimens include Blue Glory (Thunbergia battiscombia), Brazilian Golden Vine (Mascagnia macroptera), Bauhinia, Glory Vine (Clerodendrum x speciosum), Coral Vine (Antigonon leptopus) and Orchid Vine (Mascagnia lilacina).

The Camellia Garden was just beginning to bloom when I visited, but it should be spectacular now in January. Camellia sasanqua brightens the landscape late September through November. Camellia japonica steals the show in December through February.

The Fern Collection includes some fine examples. The display should excite any shade gardener or collector of hardy ferns with selections such as Sechuan Ribbon Fern (Lepisorus bicolor), Dixie Wood Fern (Dryopteris x australis), Maiden Fern (Thelypteris kunthii), Hart's Tongue Fern (Pyrrosia lingua), Tassel Fern (Polystichum polyblepharum), Macho Fern (Nephrolepis biserrata) and Oriental Chain Fern (Woodwardia orientalis). Peacock Spikemoss (Selaginella uncinata) made a fine ground cover in the Fern Garden.

One small section was particularly fascinating. I don't remember what it was called. It looked arid and desolate like a Salvador Dali landscape, warmed by Anise Marigold (Tagetes lucida), with starkly shaped plants. Representatives included Monkey Puzzle Tree (Araucaria araucana), Cryptomeria japonica 'Araucaroides', Coontie (Zamia pumila), Cloverleaf Fern (Marsilea macropoda) and Chinese Nutmeg Tree (Torreya grandis). Gardeners with unusual plant preferences would be inspired.

Hedychium 'Elizabeth'

The Ginger Garden moved my senses from the stark to the lush. Protected by shade and sheltering walls, wonderful gingers thrive. Among them are Hidden Ginger (Curcuma 'Scarlet Fever'), Mauve Dancing Girl (Globba winitii), Yellow Dancing Girl (Globba schomburgkii), Hardy Ginger Lily (Hedychium 'Elizabeth'), Peacock Ginger (Cornukaempferia aurantifolia 'Jungle Gold') and Red Tower Ginger (Costus barbatus).

Every hour or so during my visit, students would swarm out of some buildings and into others. Then I would be alone again to stroll and snap pictures.

With so many lovely distractions, there's every reason to pause and enjoy the campus of Armstrong Atlantic State University Arboretum, unless one's in a big hurry to class.

Note: As of 2018, Armstrong is a campus of Georgia Southern University.

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Thoughts on planting container gardens for winter

Q. I want to plant an outdoor container garden this month. Are there things I need to know to be successful?

A. Choose the proper plants, then protect them from wind and extreme cold.

Obviously, you should choose plants that are cold hardy in your area. You can determine your climate zone by consulting the USDA Climate Zone map. It is very specific, even delineating some climate fluctuations within your county of residence. Various publications and online web sites provide hardiness information for specific plants. This blog provides plenty.

Wind can dislodge plants from containers, especially if the roots of new plants have not yet taken hold in the soil. If possible, position your containers out of the wind. Staking is recommended for tall, high-profile plants.

Select large, stable planting containers with thick walls. Fifteen gallon and larger containers with wide bottoms are best. Greater soil volume provides more insulation for tender roots. Wide bottoms help prevent tipping due to wind or snow loads. Thick walls provide more insulation.

Avoid hanging baskets.

Well-drained, evenly moist soil provides more protection than dry soil because water is insulating, even if turned to ice. Freezing water actually gives off heat.

If you plant more than one container, group them together. The collective mass is more protective than single containers scattered about.

Extreme cold weather may force you to insulate your containers with organic material such as straw to protect the roots. Bales can be conveniently placed around the containers for insulation, then removed when the weather moderates. Even old blankets can be used for insulation.

If extreme cold threatens plant tops, consider draping them with lightweight frost protection fabric. If you can't obtain it, drape your plants with old sheets. Never cover plants with plastic sheets.

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