Showing posts with label shade gardening. Show all posts
Showing posts with label shade gardening. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 11, 2026

Following the Shade Through the Seasons

 Shade and sun

Many gardeners follow the sun. Experienced gardeners also learn to follow the shade.

Shade is not a fixed thing. It shifts with the seasons, grows longer in winter, retreats in summer, and changes as trees leaf out or lose their foliage. A spot that bakes in July may remain cool and pleasant in October. A flower bed that enjoys six hours of sunshine in March may receive only dappled light by May.

Learning to observe these seasonal changes is one of the quiet skills that separates a gardener who constantly fights nature from one who works with it.

Shade Is Always Moving

The sun never rises and sets in exactly the same place throughout the year. As the earth tilts through the seasons, the sun climbs higher in summer and lower in winter. Every fence, tree, hedge, house, and garden shed casts a different shadow depending upon the season.

In midsummer, shadows are short. During winter, the same objects may throw long shadows across half the garden.

This continual movement creates opportunities that many gardeners overlook.

Spring: The Season of Temporary Sunshine

One of the greatest gifts of spring is sunlight beneath deciduous trees.

Before oaks, maples, beeches, and other deciduous trees leaf out, their branches allow abundant sunshine to reach the ground. This brief window of light is why so many woodland wildflowers bloom early.

Plants such as:

  • Virginia bluebells
  • Bloodroot
  • Trilliums
  • Dutchman's breeches
  • Spring beauty
  • Daffodils

take advantage of these sunny weeks before the forest canopy closes.

In the home garden, this means bulbs and spring perennials often perform beautifully beneath trees where summer flowers later struggle.

Summer: Shade Becomes Shelter

By midsummer, the garden has changed completely.

Leaves have filled every branch. The afternoon sun becomes intense. Soil dries more quickly. Heat radiates from walls, sidewalks, and patios.

At this time of year, shade becomes valuable real estate.

Hostas, ferns, hellebores, astilbes, woodland phlox, coral bells, and many native woodland plants appreciate the cooler conditions. Even vegetables such as lettuce often benefit from afternoon shade during the hottest months.

Sometimes a location that seems too shady in April becomes the most comfortable growing space in August.

Autumn: Light Returns

As leaves begin to color and fall, sunlight slowly returns to many parts of the garden.

This extra light encourages late-season growth and helps cool-season vegetables thrive.

Spinach, kale, collards, mustard greens, carrots, and many herbs often appreciate these brighter autumn conditions.

It is also an excellent season for evaluating your landscape. Areas that seemed deeply shaded during summer may receive several additional hours of sunshine after leaf drop.

Winter Reveals Hidden Patterns

Winter may be the easiest season for studying shade.

Without leaves obscuring your view, you can clearly watch how the low sun travels across the landscape. Long shadows reveal terrain that is almost invisible during summer.

This is an excellent time to ask questions:

  • Which side of the house receives the earliest morning sun?
  • Where does frost linger longest?
  • Which beds warm first?
  • Which locations remain cold all day?
  • Where might a cold frame or greenhouse receive maximum winter sunlight?

Many gardening decisions become easier after a winter of simple observation.

Buildings Create Microclimates

Trees are not the only source of shade.

Your home may shelter plants from drying winter winds while casting cooling afternoon shade during summer.

A garage wall may reflect warmth that protects tender plants from light frost.

Garden sheds, fences, pergolas, and even parked vehicles temporarily influence light patterns throughout the day.

These small effects often explain why identical plants perform differently only a few feet apart.

Mapping Shade Throughout the Year

One useful exercise is creating a seasonal shade map.

Choose four days each year:

  • Around the spring equinox
  • Near the summer solstice
  • Around the autumn equinox
  • Near the winter solstice

On each date, sketch your garden and mark where shade falls at several times during the day.

Within one year, you'll have a valuable reference showing which locations receive full sun, partial shade, or deep shade during every season.

Many professional landscape designers perform similar observations before placing expensive trees and shrubs.

Shade Changes as Gardens Mature

Young landscapes often receive abundant sunshine simply because the trees are still small.

Ten or twenty years later, those same trees may cast dense shade across much of the property.

This gradual change explains why older gardens often evolve naturally from sunny perennial borders toward woodland plantings.

Rather than fighting the maturing landscape, wise gardeners adapt their plant choices as the years pass.

Let Shade Guide Your Gardening

Gardening is often described as learning to read nature. Shade is one of nature's quietest languages.

Instead of asking, "How can I force more sun into this space?" consider asking, "What is this place becoming?"

The answer may lead you toward plants better suited to the conditions that already exist.

Following the shade through the seasons teaches patience. It encourages observation before action and reminds us that a garden is never static. Like the turning of the year itself, light and shadow are always moving together. The gardener who learns their rhythm gains a deeper understanding not only of plants, but of the landscape as a living, changing whole.

Return to GoGardenNow.com. 


Saturday, July 5, 2025

Thursday, July 3, 2025

Friday, June 27, 2025

Saturday, April 8, 2023

Grow Your Garden Anywhere

 

Bucket Garden Image by Peter Bauer from Pixabay

Some form of gardening seems to be in everyone’s blood. It might be for the love of beauty, fascination with the world of plants, the feeling of accomplishment or for health benefits. Yet, many feel defeated before they begin simply because they don’t think they have the right space to garden.

Don’t despair. Let me assure you, THERE’S ALWAYS A SPACE TO GROW. From the smallest window sill to the back forty acres, successful gardens can be established. Plants “know” this instinctively. They can take root in the smallest, most inhospitable places and thrive. 

 

Grass in crack Image by Shepherd Chabata from Pixabay

Whatever the situation, there are plants to fill any nook, cranny, pot, box, room or yard.

To begin, define your needs, interests and limitations. Are you casting about for ideas? Take a walk through your neighborhood or city to see what others are doing. 

 

Container gardening Savannah

Visit public gardens, or make friends and visit their private spaces. Browse the internet. Do you just want something green? Do you crave beauty? Do you want to eat your plants? Write these things down.

Do you prefer certain plant types such as tropicals, succulents, herbs, bulbs, bulbs, or veggies, for example? Make your list. If your space is very limited, make it a short one.

 

Urban gardening Image by Markus Spiske from Pixabay

Which brings us to assessing your available space. Account for the size, light and temperature exposure, and accessibility. While you’re at it, assess your own limitations. You might not have a lot of time to care for plants, or the mobility to do so. Seek advice. Record your evaluation. You can always find something to satisfy the needs.

With all those things in mind, and having narrowed your scope, select your plants. Browse the internet, thumb through plant catalogs, visit local garden shops, BUT DON’T BECOME DISTRACTED. Keep your plan in mind and your list in hand. Focus, FOCUS, FOCUS!

 

Image by PublicDomainPictures from Pixabay


Next, purchase the appropriate supplies: containers, soils, fertilizers and tools.

Oh, and don’t forget to ask for help or do a little research to find answers to your gardening questions. Your local Cooperative Extension office should have plenty of brochures, and the experts there might give personal insights. Blogs like this one are packed with info. Folks sometimes reach me by phone or email through GoGardenNow.com for assistance. YouTube is crowded with videos and insights offered by “half the free world and China.” You won’t be at a loss for help.

From there on out, you’ll have success, make some mistakes, learn more, and have fun. 

 

Raised bed Image by Ulrike Mai from Pixabay

So Go Garden Now! 

Thursday, December 13, 2018

Caladium 'Fiesta' - It's Party Time!!!

Caladium 'Fiesta'
It's party time! This is one of the most exciting caladiums ever introduced. Caladium 'Fiesta' produces white foliage with green netting and bright red veins.  It looks like fireworks going off in the landscape. The white leaves really brighten up those dark spaces in the shade garden. I love it! This dwarf variety grows only 12 inches tall, so it looks really nice and compact in containers and the front of borders. It also makes a nice ground cover under trees and shade structures.

Here are a few more details and tips about growing it:

Name(s): Caladium 'Fiesta', Cyrtospadix bicolor, Caladium x hortulanum, Caladium bicolor, Fancy-leafed Caladium, Angel Wings, Heart of Jesus.

Flower Color: White spaths, but these aren't the main feature.

Bloom Time: N/A.

Foliage: Herbaceous, white, netted, bright red veins.

Height/Spread: 12 inches x 12 inches.

Climate Zones: Hardy in zones 9, 10, 11. Planted as annuals in other climate zones.

Sun Exposure: Shade.

Soil Condition: Organic, pH 5.6 to 6.5.

Planting Depth: 2-1/2 times the height of the bulb.

Features: Colorful foliage.

Uses: Container gardens, bulb gardens, annual gardens.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Wednesday, December 12, 2018

Caladium 'Autumn Beauty' - An Exciting New Plant For The Southern Garden

Caladium 'Autumn Beauty'

Caladiums are always favorites in Southern gardens. Their lush, colorful leaves lend a wonderful tropical appearance to shady places, drawing attention from all who pass by. This one, 'Autumn Beauty', lasts well into late summer and fall with hues that complement other seasonal colors. Lower sun exposure enhances its yellow colors. Greater sun exposure brings out its lovely coral shades.

Here are some details and tips on how to grow it.

Name(s): Caladium 'Autumn Beauty', Cyrtospadix bicolor, Caladium x hortulanum, Caladium bicolor, Fancy-leafed Caladium, Angel Wings, Heart of Jesus

Flower Color: White.

Bloom Time: Summer to fall.

Foliage: Herbaceous.

Height/Spread: 14 inches to 20 inches x 12 inches.

Climate Zones: Hardy in zones 9, 10, 11. Planted as annuals in other climate zones.

Sun Exposure: Light shade.

Soil Condition: Organic, pH 5.6 to 6.5.

Planting Depth: 2-1/2 times the height of the bulb.

Features: Colorful foliage.

Uses: Container gardens, bulb gardens, tropical gardens, annual gardens, mass planting, summer ground cover.

Return to GoGardenNow.com

Monday, February 9, 2015

Got a small yard with lots of shade?

Dwarf Mondo Grass Lawn

Q. I have a small yard that doesn't get much sunlight, and there is a lot of moss. What to do you suggest to get grass growing? I live in Columbia, MD.

A. Forget about grass. You should grow dwarf mondo grass instead. Mondo (Ophiopogon japonicus) is not true grass, but it looks like grass. Mondo performs well in full shade and in slightly moist soil. Maintenance is minimal. Mondo has few pest and disease problems, and tolerates poor soil. Dwarf mondo (O. japonicus 'Nana') leaves grow to 1-1/2 inches to 2 inches long, so mowing is unnecessary.

To learn more about growing mondo, read my article - Mondo Possibilities For Your Landscape.




Return to Ophiopogon at GoGardenNow.com.

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

FAQ: Can you suggest some shade-loving perennials?

Q. Can you suggest some shade-loving perennials? Our climate zone is 7.

A. If you want ground cover perennials for shade that will tolerate some foot traffic, consider Bugle Weed (Ajuga spp.), Sedge (Carex spp.), Kenilworth Ivy (Cymbalaria aequitriloba), Kew Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei 'Kewensis'), Variegated Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea 'Variegata'), Lily Turf (Liriope spp), Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon japonicus).

Ajuga 'Burgundy Glow'

If you simply want shade-loving perennials, consider Japanese Marlberry (Ardisia japonica), Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior), Green and Gold (Chrysogonum virginianum), Lily Of The Valley (Convallaria majalis), ferns, Lenten Rose (Helleborus spp.), Coral Bells (Heuchera spp.), hostas, Meehan's Mint (Meehania cordata), Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis spp.), Allegheny Spurge (Pachysandra procumbens), Japanese Spurge (Pachysandra terminalis), Spike Moss (Selaginella uncinata or other species).

Pachysandra 'Silver Edge'

Shade-loving vines include Ivy (Hedera spp.), Creeping Wire Vine (Muehlenbeckia axillaris), Asiatic Jasmine (Trachelospermum asiaticum), and Vincas (V. major or V. minor).

Vinca minor

These are only a few choices available to you.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

About the Eastern Hay-scented Fern (Dennstaedtia punctilobula)


Eastern Hay-scented fern, is a marvelous native plant for the shade garden. The fragrant, lacy green fronds turn yellow in fall and may linger through winter. Fronds are triangular to oval shaped and deeply divided, giving it a lacy appearance. Yes, the aroma is reminiscent of hay.

Its botanical name is Dennstaedtia punctilobula (pronounced "den-STET-ee-uh punk-tih-LOH-bew-luh"). Punctilobula refers to the dotted lobes. The genus was named by Andre Michaux in honor of August Wilhelm Dennstedt (1776–1826), German botanist, physician, and director of the Belvedere Garden. His works include Weimar's Flora: Pflanzen Mit Deutlichen Geschlechtern (1800), Schlussel Zum Hortus Indicus Malabaricus (1818), and Hortus Belvedereanus (1821).

Michaux, who explored extensively in North America, would have found Eastern hay-scented fern practically anywhere he traveled. The USDA PLANTS database shows Dennstaedtia punctilobula thrives from Quebec to Georgia, and westward to Missouri and Arkansas. Another species, Dennstaedtia bipinnata, is native to Florida, the West Indies, Central America, and south to Bolivia.

Hay-scented fern normally grows in loose clumps 15 to 30 inches tall and spreading to 24 inches. However it spreads via underground rhizomes and may colonize an area. It prefers partial to full shade in moist, well-drained soil high in organic matter with pH ranging from 5.1 to 6.5. Once established, hay-scented fern is rather drought tolerant. It is hardy from USDA climate zones 3 into 8.

Little soil preparation is needed before planting. Moist, well-drained soil high in organic matter shouldn't need tilling, especially if in a woodland setting. If the soil requires amendment to increase the level of organic matter, some tilling might be required. Remove all traces of weeds. Collect a soil sample and take it to the nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. Follow the instructions provided.

Dennstaedtia is easily and economically established by planting rhizome cuttings. My Youtube video on Planting Hay-scented Ferns demonstrates how to do it. After planting, apply a thin layer of organic mulch to conserve moisture and discourage weeds.

Gardeners troubled by deer and rabbits will be glad to know that this fern is critter resistant. Similarly, hay-scented fern is insect and disease resistant.

Hay-scented fern is ideal as a ground cover for xeriscaping, naturalizing, shade gardens and woodland walks, fragrant gardens, fern collections, and native plant collections. Suitable companion plants include Astilbe, Chrysogonum, Galium, Hosta, Heuchera, Hyacinthoides, Sanguinaria, Scilla, Selaginella, and ferns with similar requirements.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thursday, October 18, 2012

Must Have Plants: Autumn Fern

Autumn Fern - Dryopteris erythrosora

Must-have plants are among the best plants for appropriate garden situations. When you need great garden plants for ground cover, naturalizing, wildflower gardens, perennial borders, butterfly gardens, hummingbird gardens, herb gardens, heritage gardens, cutting gardens, woodland gardens, shade gardens, bulb gardens, container gardens, bog gardens, water gardens, rain gardens or xeriscaping, look for the best among our must-have plants.

Name(s): Dryopteris erythrosora, Aspidium erythrosorum, Dryopteris bulligera, Dryopteris distantipinna, Dryopteris linyingensis, Dryopteris oblongipinnula, Autumn Fern, Japanese Shield Fern

Flower Color: None

Bloom Time: None

Foliage: Evergreen, burgundy to green.

Height/Spread: 18 inches to 24 inches x 18 inches to 24 inches.

Climate Zones: 5, 6, 7, 8

Sun Exposure: Partial shade to full shade.

Soil Condition: Well-drained, pH 6.1 to 7.5

Features: Drought tolerant, deer resistant, colorful foliage.

Uses: Massed planting, naturalizing, fern collections, Asian gardens, shade gardens, woodland gardens.

Return to Ferns at GoGardenNow.com.

Monday, August 13, 2012

Aquilegia (Columbine) - The Eagle And The Dove

Aquilegia canadensis by Jennifer Anderson @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database
Aquilegia (Columbine) - The Eagle And The Dove

The name Aquilegia (a-kwi-LEE-jee-a) is derived from the Latin aquila, referring to the talon-like structures or "spurs" on its flowers. The name "columbine", derived from the Latin word for "dove" (columba), was given because someone observed that, viewed from below, the petals resemble a cluster of doves. So, in one plant genus we have a vision of two very different birds.

Some of my dearest childhood memories are of hiking in the mountains with my elders, brother and cousins. Actually, we didn't hike; we strolled. For us children, strolling and stopping was a source of frustration. We were always in a hurry wanting to reach the summit. But we were usually accompanied by at least one real old elder who slowed us down a lot. Typically, the oldest was also the most knowledgeable about plants, or who felt like stopping to talk about them more. "Boys, now boys," grandfather would say, "this is...", and he'd probe it with his walking staff and proceed to tell us what ailment it was good for. After he died, my dad and uncles would do the same.

So I was leisurely, thoughtfully introduced to Aquilegia. In the Rocky Mountains it was Aquilegia coerulea growing beside a brook. It was Aquilegia canadensis along the Blue Ridge.

Actually, there was one thing that could temporarily distract me from reaching the summit. If the teaching elder would say, "Indians used this to...", I was ready to stop and learn. I learned that columbine was used to treat stomach cramps; reduce fever, pain and swelling; kill parasites; stop bleeding and make you pee. I also learned that little water droplets sometimes collected in the tops of the flowers below the spurs, which was kind of a neat thing to discover. I sometimes wondered if I could take something to kill pinworms, why it wouldn't kill me, too. I never asked. But, I suppose it's because Aquilegia is somewhat toxic, though not dangerous if taken as directed by a knowledgeable doctor.

From those woodland strolls, I also learned a principle by my elders' examples which means much more to me now that I'm the elder often inclined to mosey and pause at flowers.

"All that is needed for calm happiness
Hast thou not here?
Hast thou not pleasure in the golden bough
That shields thee from the day's fierce glow?
Canst thou not raise thy breast to catch,
On the soft moss beside the brook,
The sun's last rays at even?
Here thou mayst wander through the flowers' fresh dew,
Pluck from the overflow
The forest-trees provide,
Thy choicest food,--mayst quench
Thy light thirst at the silvery spring.
Oh friend, true happiness
Lies in contentedness,
And that contentedness
Finds everywhere enough."
"Oh, wise one!" said the eagle, while he sank
In deep and ever deep'ning thought--
"Oh Wisdom! like a dove thou speakest!"
The Eagle And The Dove - Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

If you'd like to grow columbine, you probably can. Of the 60 or so Aquilegia species, 22 are native to North America. One Aquilegia vulgaris, native to Europe, thrives here, too. You'll find columbines in practically every state and province. Among the various species and hybrids, there are columbines cold hardy or heat-tolerant enough to thrive from USDA climate zones 3 to 10.

Choose a site in full sun to full shade. In hotter climates, partial shade is preferred. Before planting, you'll need to know the pH level of your soil. Aquilegias generally prefer slightly moist, well-drained soil with pH ranging from 6.6 to 7.5. Take a sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. The fee is nominal.

If soil is compacted, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8 inches deep, removing all traces of weeds.  If the soil is high in organic matter and friable, it may not require cultivation.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil, if necessary.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4 inches to 6 inches of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants between 12 inches to 24 inches apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1 inch deep.

Columbines are suitable for mixed perennial borders, hummingbird and butterfly gardens, medicinal plant and native plant collections.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Friday, April 6, 2012

FAQ: Would dwarf mondo be a good choice for my landscape?

Dwarf Mondo lawn

Q. I have a large area, approx. 1.000 sq. ft. under large oak trees.  Grass of any kind does not do well. Mondo grass has been recommended. Dwarf Mondo seems to be a good choice. I live in northern FL. If if chose Mondo grass how much would be needed to cover the area? How far apart would sprigs be planted? How long to expect the plant to cover bare areas? Any other info would be  appreciated.

A. If you're looking for something turf-like, mondo (Ophiopogon japonicus) would be a good choice, but dwarf spreads fairly slowly. The actual length of time required before coverage depends on several variables: irrigation, fertilization, soil conditions. Leaf blades are 2 inches to 3 inches. If you plant bare root sprigs, they should be planted fairly close together. 4 inches or so would be ideal. For 1000 sq. ft., you'd need 9000 sprigs. (I do offer quantity discounts.) If you planted 6 inches apart, you'd need 4000 sprigs.

The longer blade mondo spreads more quickly. In addition, the longer blades (6 inches to 8 inches) give the appearance of quicker coverage.

Liriope spicata also grows in full shade. It spreads much more rapidly. Leaf blades are about 12 inches long. They can be mown occasionally. Liriope spicata can be planted farther apart. If planted 8 inches apart, you'd need 2250 sprigs. If planted 10 inches apart, you'd need 1450 sprigs. At 12 inches apart you'd need 1000 sprigs.

Liriope muscari has broader leaves than L.spicata, so doesn't appear so turf-like. 'Royal Purple' is a good one for coverage. Spreads nicely.

Other shade-tolerant ground covers that also tolerate dry soil (which I expect you have under oaks), that do NOT have turf-like appearance, include Ajuga reptans, Chrysogonum virginianum, Euonymus fortunei, Glechoma hederacea, Lamium maculatum, Hedera helix, Lamiastrum galeobdolon, Pachysandra terminalis, Vinca major and V. minor. Most can be planted farther apart.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Hi John! Have you heard of Moss Milkshake?

Q. Hi, John! Have you heard of Moss Milkshake? www.mossmilkshake.com. I've also read that you can make up your own mixture if you can get some moss. Do you think it would establish itself in a shaded spot with lots of an invasive violet? (The violets took over and actually work nicely under a tree, but leave a big bare area during the winter.)

A. Dear Lou, it's always good to hear from you. I confess that I often rebelled against ingesting my father's homeopathic remedies. I like real milkshakes derived from cow teats, cacao (pronounced "ca-COW"), vanilla from orchids, etc. My wife and daughter, however, prefer mixes resembling my dad's. I can't shake any of them. Whether their's contain mosses, I don't know, but I shouldn't wonder. 

My aunt, Ann R. Davis, however, taught me to appreciate nice things like violets and mosses growing together. Whether the mosses and/or violets seem invasive depends on your state of mind. Drench the violets with those moss-shakes, let them work together and enjoy whatever happens.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

"Who can fear the winter stern while still there grows the Christmas fern."

Christmas Fern - Polystichum acrostichoides
The Christmas Fern - Polystichum acrostichoides

"When frost has clad the dripping cliffs
With fluted columns, crystal clear,
And million-flaked the feathery snow
Has shrouded close the dying year;
Beside the rock, where'er we turn,
Behold, there waves the Christmas fern.

No shivering frond that shuns the blast
Sways on its slender chaffy stem;
Full-veined and lusty green it stands,
Of all the wintry woods the gem.
Our spirits rise when we discern
The pennons of the Christmas fern.

With holly and the running pine
Then let its fronds in wreaths appear,
'Tis summer's fairest tribute given.
To grace our merry Yuletide cheer.
Ah, who can fear the winter stern
While still there grows the Christmas fern."
                                                  -W. N. Clute

People of science are often people of art. How can one delve into the wonders of creation without being astonished by the order and beauty? Willard Nelson Clute (1769-1850) was one of them. He was born in the village of Painted Post, Steuben County, New York. The name of the village comes from a painted totem that early explorers found at a river junction. The rivers, creeks and mountains nearby must have inspired his love of nature. He pursued his passion. Clute founded the American Fern Society in 1893. In 1928, he became professor of botany at Butler University, Indianapolis, and curator of the botanical garden. He authored over a dozen botanical books, some of which his wife, Ida, illustrated.

In Our ferns in their haunts: a guide to all the native species, Clute waxed poetic about the Christmas fern. Who could resist? As he noted, "To the hunter, the trapper and the rambler in the winter woods, the Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) is a familiar species. In summer it is not especially noticeable, but in the snowbound season, the cheerful, fresh-looking fronds are sure to attract the eye."

They did attract the eye, and were extensively harvested for Christmas greenery arrangements. Apparently all the collecting did little to diminish the numbers of the Christmas fern. It is widely distributed throughout its native range, from Quebec to north Florida and to eastern Texas. Because it is so robust, gardeners find it to be easy to grow.

Its botanical name, Polystichum acrostichoides (pronounced pol-IS-tick-um ak-ruh-stik-OY-deez), refers to the many rows of spores, and the fact that it reminded someone of another genus of ferns, Acrostichum. The seldom-used name, Nephrodium acrostichoides, is synonymous.

Christmas fern is hardy from USDA climate zone 3 to 9. It prefers well-drained, humusy soil like you'd find above creek banks and on woodland floors. Shady locations under hardwood trees are best, so it's an excellent choice for shade gardening. Soil pH may range from 5.6 to 7.5. Once established, it is somewhat drought tolerant and should be considered for xeriscaping. Being a fern, it is deer resistant.

I can't imagine why tilling such a site would be necessary. It's always good to take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Follow the recommendations.

Christmas ferns grow up to 24 inches high and 12 inches to 18 inches across. Dig planting holes about 12 inches apart. The holes should be no deeper than that of the rootballs. Water the plants in their pots, then plant them, watering more as you go. When planted, the tops of the rootballs should be visible; do not bury them under soil.

If you haven't already come to appreciate the beauty of Christmas ferns, I'm sure you will. Good cheer!

Read more about Christmas ferns.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Japanese Painted Fern - Like Michinoku Cloth


Michinoku no
Shinobu moji-zuri
  Tare yue ni
Midare-some nishi
Ware naranaku ni.

AH! why does love distract my thoughts,
  Disordering my will!
I'm like the pattern on the cloth
  Of Michinoku hill,—
  All in confusion still.

-Kawara no Sadaijin (822 - 895)

Shinobu mojizuri is an ancient dyeing process, probably originating from Michinoku region in Japan, in which plants are pressed and rubbed into silk cloth creating an intricate pattern. The poet's simile expresses well the indelible, painful impression that love makes on the heart.

It occurs to me that the intricate pattern and shades of Japanese Painted Fern (Athyrium niponicum var. pictum) must resemble a Michinoku print. Emerging fronds are metallic gray with reddish to bluish blush. Mature fronds hold their color well and contrast nicely with the emerging ones. This fern forms very attractive clumps from 12 inches to 18 inches in height, and as wide.

For its beauty and adaptability, the fern was named Perennial Plant of the Year winner for 2004 by the Perennial Plant Association. Many gardeners find it irresistable.

Japanese Painted Fern goes dormant in winter, nevertheless it is reliably cold hardy in USDA climate zones 4 to 9. It performs best in partial shade to full shade, however, coloration is best in light shade. Some gardeners report success planting in full sun, but growers in hot climates should definitely provide adequate shade. Slightly moist soil is essential, though care must be taken to avoid over-watering. Japanese Painted Fern doesn't like soggy soil. Recommended pH is 6.1 to 7.5.

You'll be pleased to know that Japanese Painted Fern has no serious insect or disease problems, and it's deer resistant.

Before planting, take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing.  The results will specify any necessary soil amendments.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 10 inches deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compost may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4 inches to 6 inches of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 18 inches to 24 inches apart. Small plants may be planted closer together. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the ferns into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1 inch deep.

Shade gardeners will love Japanese Painted Ferns. Of course, they should be included in Japanese gardens and in fern collections. Their beauty is irresistible.

Here is another English translation of Kawara no Sadaijin's poem, number 14 of A Hundred Verses from Old Japan (The Hyakunin-isshu), tr. by William N. Porter, [1909].

Like the printed leaves of ferns
On Michinoku cloth,
Who has imposed on me
This affliction, but you.
But I can’t resist it.
-Kawara no Sadaijin (822 - 895)

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Saturday, January 30, 2010

Fancy Leaf Caladiums


For a colorful, tropical appearance in your garden, plant caladiums.  Their flashy, heart- or lance-shaped leaves will brighten the darkest corner of the garden.  Masses of caladiums will compete with any flower bed for a vivid display.

Caladiums are aroids, members of the Araceae family along with anthurium, pothos, monstera, philodendron, calla and jack-in-the-pulpit.  The botanical name is Caladium bicolor or C. x hortulanem.  Common names include "Angel Wings", "Elephant Ears", and "Heart of Jesus."  Many aroids are native to the tropics.  Caladiums are native to South America, particularly the region in and around Brazil.  They are cold-hardy in the United States from USDA climate zone 9 through 11.  Those who live in cooler regions can grow them successfully as annuals in landscape beds and container gardens.  Most gardeners, however, lift and store the corms over winter.

These fancy plants are available in a wide range of color patterns, usually in shades of red, pink, green and white.  Those structures often referred to as flowers are not actually flowers at all, but are modified leaves called spathes.  The actual flowers are much smaller and are surrounded by the spathes.  The spathes, however, are relatively insignificant.
 
Caladiums are grown from corms.  A corm is a thick, bulb-shaped stem or stem base that grows just below the soil surface.  Roots grow from the bottom of the corm.  Shoots and leaves appear at the top.

They are often considered to be useful only in the shade garden.  Certainly, they are perfect for shady areas.  But many cultivars grow very well in full- to partial sun.  If planting in the garden, select a site with richly organic, moist but well-drained soil.  Soil pH should be between 5.6 to 6.5.  The best way to determine if the pH is within that range and contains the proper nutrients for caladiums is to have the soil tested.  Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you.  You can collect the soil sample yourself.  For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis.  Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

Prior to receiving your corms, cultivate the soil to the depth of 8 inches and add plenty of well-rotted compost.  Remove weeds.  Soil test results may recommend other soil amendments.  Follow those instructions.  If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the corms.  The site should be ready for planting when your caladiums arrive.

Bear in mind that all parts of the plant are toxic if eaten and can cause skin irritations and/or allergic reactions in sensitive persons.  I've never experienced such a reaction to caladiums, nor do I know of anyone who has.  But, if you believe you might be susceptible, wear gloves when handling them.

Caladium corms can be planted in spring when soil has warmed to 65 degrees Fahrenheit.  The question I am most often asked is "Which end is up?"  If your caladiums are not yet sprouting, look for small growing points.  These may be encircled by fine fiber:  the remains of last year's leaves.  The bottom may have coarser fibers arranged in no particular direction:  the remains of last year's roots.

Some caladiums, particularly the taller cultivars, may produce too few stems and foliage if planted in shade.  To produce more leaves, they may benefit from "de-eyeing."  To "de-eye" the corm, rub off visible buds or "eyes" with your finger.  This will cause the corm to produce more buds and result in a bushier plant.
Plant the corms 2 inches deep and space them approximately 6 to 8 inches apart.  After planting, water well.  If some of the soil washes away, replace it.  Then water sparingly until growth appears.  With warm soil, roots and shoots should begin to form soon.   A light layer of straw mulch will help to preserve moisture and suppress weeds.

During summer, you may fertilize occasionally.  Apply 2 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet of garden area every two weeks until leaves appear.  Do not allow synthetic fertilizers to come into contact with the plants.  Irrigate if rainfall is inadequate.  Soil should be kept slightly moist.  Weed when necessary, but be careful not to disturb the corms.  Occasional application of a recommended insecticide will keep leaf-eating insects away, though the extent of their damage is usually minimal and cosmetic.  Call your Cooperative Agricultural Extension Office for insecticide recommendations.  Always, follow label instructions.

Growing caladiums in containers is not much different than in the garden.  A 6" pot will accommodate 3 corms nicely.  Use the finest potting soil; cheap soil will give poor results.  The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth.  Select containers that will accommodate the corms and any other suitable companion plants.  All companion plants should have similar soil and moisture requirements.  Because container gardens can dry quickly, take steps to keep the pots properly watered.  Adding moisture retentive gel to the soil can be beneficial.  Larger containers are not as susceptible to drying.  Tipping over can also be a problem with small containers.  Caladiums can grow to 24" in height, though dwarf varieties have been developed.

You may use caladium leaves as you would fresh cut flowers. Cut the leaves at least 3 hours before arranging them. After cutting near the bottom of the stem, immediately set stems in water. They will wilt at first, but will freshen up after a bit.  Arrangements should last for 2 to 3 weeks.

When the growing season is nearing its end, let the foliage remain to build reserves in the corms for the next growing season.  You may remove the foliage when it has turned yellow.

If you live in a climate zone where caladiums are not cold hardy, you may dig and store them until the next growing season.  Do so when temperatures drop to about 65 degrees F.  After digging them, remove foliage, wash the corms and let them dry in the shade.  Pack in peat moss and store in boxes or bags with some ventilation.  Plastic bags with ventilation holes like potatoes come in will do nicely.  Store in a dark place where the temperature can be maintained between 55 and 60 degrees F.  Moisture should not collect in the storage container.  Neither should the corms be allowed to become bone-dry.

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Saturday, January 16, 2010

Bedazzling Begonias


For bedazzling, eye-popping hues in container gardens and color beds, go with tuberous begonias.  Tuberous begonias are perennials that grow from swollen stems.  Roots emerge from the bottom; shoots and leaves appear along the top and sides.  Their parentage can be traced to species found in South America and hybridized during the late 19th century.

The botanical name is Begonia x tuberhybrida.  The genus is named for Michel Begon (1638-1710), naturalist and governor of New France (French Canada).  Tuberhybrida means "hybrid tuber."  No surprise there, eh?

Tuberous begonias produce beautiful, succulent foliage, typical of the genus.  They are worth growing for the foliage alone.  Impressive flowers appear from mid-summer until cold weather stops them.  Colors are available throughout almost the entire color spectrum.  Common flower forms include double or camellia-types, fimbriata or carnation-types, and pendulous.  Their appearance is very lush.  Plant height is around 12".  They lend themselves to all kinds of uses from container gardening in small spaces to mass plantings in flower beds.  Use them in tropical gardens or wherever you want a tropical appearance. They're wonderful for hanging baskets, especially the pendulous forms.

Tuberous begonias can be grown almost anywhere in the United States, but they are reliably hardy only in USDA climate zones 10 and 11.  Some gardeners lift and store over winter in cooler zones, but they are rather inexpensive so are often treated as annuals.

Begonias prefer partial to full shade.  Rich soil, moist but well-drained, is best with mildly acidic pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.5.  The best way to determine if the pH is within range and contains the proper nutrients is to have the soil tested.  Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you.  You can collect the soil sample yourself.  For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis.  Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

If you use potting soil, choose the finest grade available.  Cheap soil will give poor results.  The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth.  Select containers that will allow you to include companion plants, if desired.  Larger containers will require less frequent watering.  The addition of water retentive gel can be beneficial.
 
Cultivate the soil, if necessary, and remove weeds.  If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the tubers.  Time-release fertilizers for annual plants are excellent.

Plant your begonias in spring after the danger of frost has passed.  Planting holes or trenchs should be about 3" deep.  Space the rhizomes about 8 to 12 inches apart.  Lay them flat in the bottom of the hole or trench.  Don't worry about which side is up.  Cover with about two inches of soil.  Water deeply.  If some of the soil washes away, add more.

Fertilize occasionally throughout the growing season.  Keep soil moist, but not soggy.  Weed, if necessary.

When I plant color, I tend to do it in a big way.  No dabs here and there for me.  I like lots of it; bold statements.  Try it.  I think you will like it, too.  Plant a box of tuberous begonias in your garden.  They are sure to please.  You'll be surprised how many ways you can use them.

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Thursday, October 29, 2009

Afternoon Of The Fawn Lilies


Before hardwood forests begin to leaf in spring, Fawn Lilies grace the forest floor.  I'll never forget the first time I saw them.  I was a college student at the time, hiking with a friend.  As we explored a small stream in the foothills of east Tennessee, we came upon the charming yellow blossoms of Erythronium americanum nodding in the breeze and reflecting the dappled sunlight.  Enchanted, we stopped to sit and enjoy them for awhile.  I remember it as the afternoon of the fawn lilies.

Erythronium (pronounced er-ih-THROH-ni-um) refers to the reddish stems or mottling on the leaves on most of the species.  Native to parts of Asia, Europe and North America, they are also characterized by bell-shaped flowers (usually yellow) with recurved petals. Common names also include Dog-Tooth Violet, Trout Lily, and Deer-Tongue.  The most widely available species is E. revolutum.  "Revolutum" (pronounced re-voh-LOO-tum) refers to the petals which appear rolled back.  It can be found growing wild in most of eastern North America.  The most popular cultivar is 'Pagoda', a hybrid of E. tuolumnense, a California native, and E. revolutum.

Fawn Lilies are not believed to possess any medicinal qualities.  But N. J. Turner in Food Plants of Coastal First Peoples reported that American Indians used to harvest the bulbs for food.  They must have done so when food was otherwise scarce for the bulbs have a bitter taste.  Aboriginal diners washed them down with water to avoid feeling sick.  (Reminds me of my childhood experience with soy burgers.)  I haven't tried them myself, and don't recommend you do so either.

Erythronium x 'Pagoda' produces 3 to 5 yellow flowers on reddish stalks up to 12" tall.  It prefers partial shade in climate zones 3 through 9, and consistently moist soil that is high in organic matter with pH ranging from 5.1 to 7.5.

As always, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office before planting.  For a nominal fee, they will send the sample to a lab for analysis.  The analysis will normally be sent to you through the mail.  If the test results seem somewhat cryptic and difficult to understand, don't hesitate to call your County Agent for explanation.

Planting begins in fall, and must be done soon after you receive them.  They will not be happy if left to dry out.

Unless you are naturalizing them in the lawn, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  A good all-around practice for bulbs and such is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden.  Repeat the application when growth appears, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

Plant the bulbs about 5" deep.  Depth is measured to the bottom of the hole.  Recommended plant spacing is 3".

The plants require very little maintenance.  Plant them and forget about them.  They are wonderful for bulb gardens, perennial gardens, container gardens as well as for naturalizing in woodland and shade gardens.  When they bloom in the spring and nod their heads in the breeze, each day will bring new delights.  Be sure to include them in your garden, and enjoy spring afternoons among your fawn lilies.

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