A Few Plants For Prepping Your Medicinal Herb Garden

 

You’ve probably noticed that the prices of many commodities have gone up and their availability has diminished. The problems didn’t just begin with COVID lockdowns and the war in Ukraine. Those factors have contributed, but our economic problems have been building up for a long time. We’re now beginning to feel the result of many years of government and central bank mismanagement. As a result, people like us are thinking about how we can prepare for more inflation, recession and supply chain shortages.

Among the necessities of life are food, fuel and medicine. Thankfully, we can supplement them to some extent ourselves. Consider medicine, for example. Many commonly grown garden plants are beneficial for good health and treating what ails us. Can we do without our pharmacies? Absolutely not. Should we try to self-medicate without a doctor’s supervision? Again, the answer is “NO.” Some medicinal plants such as Gelsemium can be dangerous if taken without professional guidance. But it’s good to know that we can cultivate some of them in our own gardens, if only for the pleasures of growing them, satisfying our curiosity and for their ornamental value. Beauty is therapeutic. Is it not?

Consider the following few examples, and please follow the links to other interesting and useful information.

Achillea millefolium – Yarrow, Staunch-Weed – has been used since ancient times to stop bleeding, to sedate and treat anxiety, cure liver and urinary problems, improve digestion and reduce high blood pressure.

Ajuga reptans – Bugleweed is a traditional remedy to stop bleeding and bruising, mend broken bones, soothe throat irritation and mouth ulcers.

Aloe vera is well known for its healing properties for soothing superficial cuts, burns, insect bites and abrasions. I recently mentioned this to a medical professional who was sunburned. He was skeptical. “There are no studies proving Aloe’s efficacy in treating sunburns,” he said. “That’s an argument from silence,” I replied. I’ve applied it myself to burns to prevent blistering and scarring, and I know of many more who swear by it.

Basil is delicious and nutritious, as we all know. But it also contains antioxidants such as lutein and beta-carotene. These help to fight free radicals in the body. Free radicals can come from the foods we eat. Though they don’t last long, they can lead to cell damage and contribute to other conditions such as cancer, heart disease, arthritis, and diabetes.

Campsis radicans - Trumpet Creeper is useful for promoting perspiration and for treating wounds.

Dandelions are seldom welcome in our lawns and gardens, but they deserve to live. The botanical name, Taraxacum officinale, points to its traditional medicinal use as an anti-inflammatory herb. It has long been used as a purifying tonic, but it’s claimed to be effective in treating skin conditions, diabetes, liver and digestive disorders, among other ailments. Instead of eradicating it, plant it on purpose. It’s easy to grow. The leaves can be added to salads and dried for tea. The roots can be dried, ground, and used as a coffee substitute. Don’t expect it to taste like coffee, though.

Echinacea purpurea – Coneflower – is a lovely perennial that’s native to North America. It was long used by indigenous tribes to support the immune system. It also contains antioxidants for treating infections of the skin, fevers, and a host of related health issues. In addition to its medicinal value, it is very ornamental. It attracts birds and pollinators. Echinacea is an absolute MUST-HAVE for your medicinal garden.

Gelsemium sempervirens – Carolina Jessamine. I mention this
one because it’s sometimes seen as an ingredient in homeopathic preparations, but it’s not to be prepared at home. Leave that to the Naturopaths. Naturalmedicinalherbs.net states,”The roots are analgesic, antispasmodic, diaphoretic, febrifuge, hypnotic, mydriatic, nervine, sedative and vasodilator. A powerful depressant of the central nervous system, deadening pain and reducing spasms. It is said to suspend and hold in check muscular irritability and nervous excitement with more force and power than any known remedy. Whilst it relaxes the muscles, it also relieves all sense of pain. It is used internally in the treatment of neuralgia, migraine, sciatica, toothache, severe pain (especially in terminal illnesses or accidents) and meningitis. Externally it has been used as a folk remedy for cancer. The root is best harvested in the autumn and dried carefully for later use. Extreme care is advised with the use of this plant, it should only be used under the supervision of a qualified practitioner. Excessive doses cause respiratory depression, giddiness, double vision and death. It should not be prescribed for patients with heart disease, hypotension or myasthenia gravis. See also the notes above on toxicity. The fresh root is used to make a homeopathic remedy. It is used in the treatment of a variety of complaints, including fevers, flu and headaches.” Enough said. Grow it as an ornamental or for sake of curiosity, but don’t try self-medicating. You might not even live to regret it.

Hemerocallis fulva – Common daylily. I wrote in another blog article about eating daylilies. They saying, “Let food by thy medicine” is attributed to Hippocrates. Well, here you go. Daylily is also used in medicine to increase urine flow, as a laxative, to reduce fever, stop vomiting, reduce muscle spasms, reduce pain and sedate. Daylily tubers are said to be antimicrobial and able to kill some internal parasites.

Heuchera micrantha – Alum Root, Coral Bells. The root is antiseptic, astringent, reduces inflammation and fever, and has been used to treat eye infections. A tea has been used to treat liver problems and sore throats. Chewing a piece of root, cleaned and peeled, soothes sore gums.

Hypericum spp – St. John’s Wort. Naturalmedicinalherbs.net states, “

St. John's wort has a long history of herbal use. It fell out of favour in the nineteenth century but recent research has brought it back to prominence as an extremely valuable remedy for nervous problems. In clinical trials about 67% of patients with mild to moderate depression improved when taking this plant. The flowers and leaves are analgesic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aromatic, astringent, cholagogue, digestive, diuretic, expectorant, nervine, resolvent, sedative, stimulant, vermifuge and vulnerary. The herb is used in treating a wide range of disorders, including pulmonary complaints, bladder problems, diarrhoea and nervous depression. It is also very effectual in treating overnight incontinence of urine in children. Externally, it is used in poultices to dispel herd tumours, caked breasts, bruising etc. The flowering shoots are harvested in early summer and dried for later use. Use the plant with caution and do not prescribe it for patients with chronic depression. The plant was used to procure an abortion by some native North Americans, so it is best not used by pregnant women. See also the notes above on toxicity. A tea or tincture of the fresh flowers is a popular treatment for external ulcers, burns, wounds (especially those with severed nerve tissue), sores, bruises, cramps etc. An infusion of the flowers in olive oil is applied externally to wounds, sores, ulcers, swellings, rheumatism etc. It is also valued in the treatment of sunburn and as a cosmetic preparation to the skin. The plant contains many biologically active compounds including rutin, pectin, choline, sitosterol, hypericin and pseudohypericin. These last two compounds have been shown to have potent anti-retroviral activity without serious side effects and they are being researched in the treatment of AIDS. A homeopathic remedy is made from the fresh whole flowering plant. It is used in the treatment of injuries, bites, stings etc and is said to be the first remedy to consider when nerve-rich areas such as the spine, eyes, fingers etc are injured.”

Whether other species are as beneficial, I don’t know.

Lamiastrum galeobdolon – Yellow Archangel suppresses muscle spasms, tightens tissues, promotes urine production, helps to discharge mucus, and expectorant, stops bleeding and tightens blood vessels.

Lavandula angustifolia – Lavender. Lavender is best known for its soothing aroma. But it is also a useful medicinal herb. It soothes the nerves, can be applied to the skin to help heal wounds, burns, and prevents scar tissue. It’s antiseptic, sweetens the breath, and improves kidney function. Rubbing lavender oil on the temples is said to cure headaches.

Liriope spp. – Liriope aka Lilyturf root has been used as an anti-inflammatory agent, an aphrodisiac, a treatment for allergies, and as a stimulant. Sometimes the roots have been candied and eaten as a snack.

Lysimachia nummularia – Creeping Jenny, Moneywort has been used to treat scurvy, diarrhea and internal bleeding. It increases urine production and is astringent.

Nepeta spp. – Catmint, Catnip. Everyone knows what it does to most cats, but it also has many medicinal uses. Tea from the leaves is useful for treating digestive disorders, reducing fevers, soothing colds and flu. It calms muscle spasms and coughs, relieves gas and increases perspiration.

Ophiopogon japonicus – Snakebeard, Mondo is a cough suppressant and expectorant, sedative, fever reducer and treatment for dry mouth. It has also been used as an aphrodisiac and cure for anxiety. (I guess if you think it works something amazing happens.) 

Black-Eye Susan - Rudbeckia hirta has been used to treat earaches, sores, colds, and even dropsy.

Thymus spp. – Thyme. In addition to culinary uses, thyme can be used in deodorant. It is also antiseptic and disinfectant.

This is by no means an exhaustive review of medicinal plants, but should give you something as you begin prepping. The next thing to research will be about how to use them.

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Roadside Attractions

Those of us old enough to remember when cars didn’t have air-conditioners recall the welcome sights of roadside attractions. They weren’t our final vacation destinations, but their oddly unique appearances piqued our curiosities, and provided occasional relief from our sweat-boxes on wheels. Of course, we usually left with a few souvenirs.

I still have the urge to pull off the road sometimes to “see a man about a dog” or something that catches my eye, or both at once. More than likely, some interesting plants provide the excuse.

Here are a few that often attract my attention. Better yet, you can grow them at home as mementos.

Gelsemium sempervirens

Carolina Jessamine

Our native Carolina Jessamine is a spectacular vine that is well-known throughout the South. Its range is from Virginia to Texas and southward through Mexico. Motorists are sure to notice it as they travel along our highways as Jessamine festoons trees and shrubs in early spring. Read more about Carolina Jessamine.

Rudbeckia species

Black-Eye Susan

Black-Eye Susan (Rudbeckia spp.) is one of my summer favorites, and not mine only. I often pass cars parked beside highways, the driver and passengers strolling among bright-flowered patches to pluck bouquets. Read more about Black-Eye Susan.

Campsis radicans

Trumpet Vine

Trumpet Vine is a very familiar vine native to the southern United States, but can be grown as far north as New York. Travelers will noticed it growing up and over fences and signposts along the highway. Large, bright yellow, orange to red trumpet-shaped flowers appear from midsummer to fall. Read more about Trumpet Vine.

Coreopsis species

Coreopsis - also known as Tickseed - brightens roadsides and median strips in sunny yellow throughout the summer. It's one of my favorites from childhood that has stuck with me all these years.

Read more about Coreopsis.

Hemerocallis fulva Ditch Lily Ditch Lily is a species of daylily (Hemerocallis fulva) that is so common you’ll think it’s native, but it’s not. This naturalized beauty is spectacular en masse where you’ll often find it growing … you guessed it … in ditches. There is even a double-flowered ditch lily. Read more about daylilies. With these roadside attractions popping up every so often, you’ll be tempted to stop and take a stroll, even if your car does have air-conditioning!

Here Are 5 Vines That Will Attract Birds To Your Garden

As I noted in a previous article, bird-watchers who want to see them up close usually attract them with bird feeders, houses and baths. There are, however, other ways of enticing them that shouldn't be overlooked. The landscape can be transformed into a bird sanctuary by including plants that provide food and shelter. Ornamental vines are important components of such a plan.

Here are 5 ornamental vines that birds find irresistible.

A Clarion Call For Hummingbirds 

Trumpet Vine (pictured above) or Trumpet Creeper (Campsis radicans) is a climbing deciduous vine native to the southern United States. Travelers may have noticed it growing up and over fences and signposts along the highway. Large, bright yellow, orange to red trumpetshaped flowers appear from midsummer to fall. Campsis is popular world-wide for its stunning flowers, and because it attracts hummingbirds.

Campsis is cold-hardy in USDA climate zones 4 through 10. For best results, plant in full sun, well-drained soil with average to poor fertility. Plants are drought tolerant when established and heat-loving. It is best planted next to a permanent structure for support.

Yellow Garlands of Spring 

Gelsemium sempervirens – known as Carolina Jasmine, Carolina Jessamine, Yellow Jasmine, and whatever else comes to the viewer’s mind – is another great native plant that provides nectar for the birds. It’s grown mostly for its glorious early spring flowers. Southerners wax nostalgic about it. Unfortunately, it is cold hardy only in USDA climate zones 7 through 9. The flowers usually appear before the hummingbirds arrive, so is best planted as a nectar source for other species. I’ve written much more about it in a blog article, Carolina Jessamine – The Yellow Garlands of Spring.

Wild and Wonderful 

Most of us think of English ivy and all its varieties as a rampant but boring evergreen covering, or worse. But look closer and you’ll find a plant with lots of interesting variations that can not only provide mass ground- or wall covering, but also shelter and an ornamental food source for birds.

Some folks dislike ivy for it's vigorous growth habit. The very characteristic that makes it a fine ground cover can render it unwelcome; it covers ground. It's true that ivy can be troublesome if completely unchecked, but ivy does not damage trees or sound structures. It isn't a parasite. It cannot harm a mature tree, but it could outlive an old one. It cannot collapse a sound building. Ivy is a major food source for many birds, and the fruits ripen up just in time to fatten them before winter arrives. Hedera ivies also provide abundant shelter.

It Keeps Institutions From Crumbling 

Boston Ivy - Parthenocissus tricuspidata - is native to east Asia, not Massachusetts. Each leaf is composed of three lobes. In juvenile foliage, each lobe is very distinct. It is a vigorous climber, as anyone who has seen it on a wall knows well. Fall brings bright colors of yellow, orange, red or burgundy. The walls it adorns seem draped in a majestic tapestry. It is also widely used to cover trellises, pergolas, and as an ornamental ground cover for erosion control. Small flowers appear in July or August followed by fruits in October or November, and birds love 'em.

Boston ivy grows in any fertile, well-drained soil, and thrives in USDA climate zones 48. In other words, it'll probably perform well in your garden.

A Native With Great Possibilities 

Virginia Creeper - Parthenocissus quinquefolia - is native to many parts of North America, from Quebec to Florida, and westward to Colorado. It's a member of the grape (Vitaceae) family. The relationship is easy to see when you look at the flowers and fruits, but I don't recommend them for human consumption. Each leaf is composed of five leaflets. It climbs vigorously. Fall brings bright colors of yellow, orange, red or burgundy. The depth of fall color seems to depend upon available sunlight. Virginia Creeper is widely used as an ornamental ground cover, but its fall color and ability to cover walls, trellises and pergolas makes it popular as well.

Virginia Creeper thrives USDA climate zones 3-9, a broader range than Boston ivy will tolerate. Its fruit and dense growth habit make it very attractive to birds for food and shelter.

These suggested vines, along with many bulbs, perennials, annuals, shrubs and trees will be welcome additions to your landscape from the birds' points of view.

Remember to think outside the bird feeder when you plan to feed the birds.

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FAQ: We want to cover walls with evergreen plants to hide the brick.

Q. We have an outside patio behind our house and we want to cover two of the house walls around the patio with an evergreen plant, just to hide the brick that's pretty old. Is Creeping fig (Ficus pumila) a good plant for that? Will it destroy the brick wall? Should we run some fishing nylon strings on the wall so that plants' roots attach to the nylon instead of the wall? Or would you recommend another plant altogether?  We're in New York.

A. Creeping Fig wouldn't survive the winter in your area. It is cold-hardy to USDA climate zone 8. You are in climate zone 7. When I visited Washington Irving's home - Sunnyside - in Tarrytown a few years back, I was impressed by the wisteria and trumpet creeper that had overgrown it, but I personally wouldn't recommend the wisteria. 

Photo of Trumpet Creeper roots

Trumpet creeper is a possibility. My wife insisted on planting a Campis radicans (Trumpet creeper) against a wall. It also attaches by little roots, but I've been able to pull juvenile vines off the wall without damage to the wall. Mature vines leave some of their roots attached.

Boston ivy is often used to cover walls of buildings and highway sound barriers, but it is a species of Parthenocissus which has little discs at the ends of modified roots that look like suction cups. They vines are very difficult to remove from a wall once attached (if you ever decide to remove the vine). It is deciduous.

Hedera helix (English ivy and such) produces little roots that find cracks and crannies in the wall and worm their ways into them. This can cause damage when removing the ivy.

Arctic Kiwi (Actinidia kolomikta) is a beautiful vine and produces edible fruits, but it is deciduous. Five-leaf Akebia (Akebia quinata) could be a good choice, but is deciduous. So are many of the other vines popular in your area such as hops, clematis, trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens which is evergreen in the south but probably not in the north), climbing hydrangea, Schizophragma, etc.

One option would be to plant a climber next to your wall, let it grow and don't plan on pulling it off. Growing on the wall doesn't necessarily harm it; pulling it off does. After all these years, Sunnyside is still standing. Maybe the vines are holding it up.

Now that I'm thinking about it, you might consider a shrub or tree espalier to cover the walls.

Return to Flowering Vines at GoGardenNow.com or Leafy Vines at GoGardenNow.com.

FAQ: Water run-off is causing an erosion issue. Should I plant Mondo?

Q. I have a location that is a steep hill, that runs down towards a lake.  Water run-off is causing an erosion issue.  I am planning on purchasing 100 Ophiopogon japonicus 'Nana' - Dwarf Mondo Grass - Bare Root,  to start. I'm curious as to your opinion on this application of this grass.  Second, I want to know how quickly these would need to be planted once they arrive.

Dwarf Mondo bare root divisions

A. Dwarf mondo grass is a slow-growing ground cover, so it won't stabilize the soil on the hill all by itself. You could install an erosion control blanket/mat and plant through it. Still, that doesn't change the fact that dwarf mondo grows slowly.

If you decide to install a blanket/mat, to help stabilize the soil until your ground cover plant matures, it should be made of organic material (like straw). I recently saw some for sale at our local farm supply store.

Faster growing ground covers include Campsis radicans (aka Trumpet Vine, a very aggressive native plant that will climb anything in its path), Euonymus fortunei (aka Wintercreeper), Gelsemium sempervirens (aka Carolina Jessamine, another native ground cover that will climb if given the opportunity), Hypericum calycinum (aka St. John's Wort), Juniperus conferta 'Blue Pacific' and Junipers horizontalis 'Wiltonii', Liriope spicata (aka Creeping Lily Turf), Pachysandra terminalis (aka Japanese Spurge), Trachelospermum asiaticum (aka Asiatic Jasmine), Vinca major (aka Big-Leaf Periwinkle) and Vinca minor (aka Periwinkle).

Bare root plants should be planted ASAP. If you can't get to them all at once, set the plants upright in the shipping box, keep them moist, avoid exposure to sun, wind and freezing temperatures.

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FAQ: Is there a vine to climb my wall without damaging the stucco?

Ficus pumila on a brick wall

Q. Can you please recommend me a small-leafed ivy that will grow in full shade in zone 10, and not be considered to have an invasive root system?  I would like something to climb the north facing wall of my South Florida house without doing penetrating damage to the stucco. I need it to climb by itself without a trellis.

A. That's a tough question. Vines climb by two means: clinging and twining. Twining vines wrap around something. You don't want a trellis, so there won't be anything to wrap around. Clinging vines produce growths that allow the plants to attach to the walls somehow.

Parthenocissus (Boston Ivy and Virginia Creeper) have little discs at the ends of modified roots that look like suction cups. They are very difficult to remove from a wall once attached (if you ever decide to remove the vine).

Hedera (English ivy and such) produces little roots that find cracks and crannies in the wall and worm their ways into them. This can cause damage, too.

Ficus pumila (Creeping fig) grows the same way, but I have seen it grow heavy and fall off of a wall during a storm without doing damage to stucco, so that might be a possibility for you.

My wife insisted on planting a Campsis (Trumpet creeper) against a wall. It also attaches by little roots, but I've been able to pull juvenile vines off without damaging the wall, but they were still juvenile. There may be some tropical vines about which I'm unfamiliar that would work.

Trachelospermum asiaticum (Asiatic jasmine) is usually grown as a ground cover, but I've had some escape and try to climb the brick north-face wall of my house. I've been able to pull the juvenile vines off with ease, but they don't really grow thickly enough to achieve the look you desire.

In short, try Ficus pumila. It's not perfect, but may be your best bet. You might have to get it started by erecting a short, temporary trellis.

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FAQ: How can I grow trumpet creeper vine, without it growing on the house?

Q. I want to grow trumpet creeper, but don't want it climbing on the house. Do you have any suggestions?

Trumpet Creeper (Campsis radicans) is a useful vine with many admirable characteristics. It is a native plant, grows quickly, controls erosion, is insect and disease resistant, produces stunning flowers and attracts hummingbirds. But it can be a nuisance when grown on the house.

Aerial roots that help it climb can stick to the building and cause damage. The sheer weight of a mature vine can cause structural problems. Humidity that builds up under the vine can damage the walls. I recommend you grow it as a standard tree form. Choose a site where you can view it and enjoy the hummingbirds. Build a durable support. A steel pole with welded steel arms at the top and set in concrete isn't out of the question. Plant the vine next to the support. Attach it to the support with plastic tape. When the vine reaches the top of the support, pinch out the tip of the vine to stimulate lateral growth along the trunk, but retain only the young vines emerging from the top. Within two or three years, you will have a small tree that is easily maintained by occasional pruning.

This same method can be used for growing wisteria.

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Behind A Garden Wall: The Old Unitarian Cemetery, Charleston, SC

Cemeteries often hold a strong fascination, perhaps because they remind us of our mortal end.  Not for me the wide open lawns with metal plaques flush against the turf, and pop-out vases for easy maintenance.  I much prefer those steeped in history with draped monuments, melancholy epitaphs, lambs, roses, willows and ivy carved of stone.  Very much like death itself, they are inconvenient but all the more gripping when concealed.

In Charleston, South Carolina a stone plaque set into a brick gateway on King Street marks the site of the oldest Unitarian Church in the South, founded in 1787 and "avowedly Unitarian since 1819."  Beyond the portal, behind the wall, its cemetery beckons the ambler like a ghost at the end of a darkened hallway.  Through a dark passage beneath an arching green canopy, one emerges into the burial ground teeming with herbs, shrubs and trees in wild abandon.  But neglected it is not.  Meandering among the stones we came upon a gardener drenched with sweat, at peace with himself, futilely pulling weeds.  But, this churchyard is known for its weeds; it simply would not do for many of them to be removed.  I was tempted to "search for truth and meaning" in that.

Well-rooted in and nourished by the past, typical species of a vintage southern garden flourish.  Among them we found Althea, Aspidistra, Azalea, Bignonia, Camellia, Campsis, Canna, Clerodendrum bungei, Crinum, Cyrtomium, Eryobotria, Euphorbia heterophylla, Ficus pumila, Hedera, Hedychium, Lagerstroemia, Lantana, Ligustrum, Liriope, Lonicera, Magnolia, Malvaviscus, Mirabilis, Nephrolepis, Parthenocissus virginiana, Pittosporum, Platycladus, Plumbago, Rosa, Sabal, Viburnum, Vitis, Wisteria, and much more.  If you have a moment, consider our images of that poignant place.















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Trumpet Creeper -The Hummingbird Clarion

Trumpet Creeper (Campsis radicans), also known as Trumpet Vine and Cow-Itch Vine, is a climbing deciduous vine native to the southern United States. Its only relative, Campsis grandiflora, is native to China. The latin name, Campsis radicans, refers to its somewhat pendulous flowers, like tubular bells, and the fact that it climbs "by the roots". A vigorous climber, Trumpet Creeper develops prominent aerial roots as it matures. Older vines can be as thick as your arm. The common name, Cow-Itch Vine, refers to the fact that it can cause skin irritation to sensitive persons, but so can tulip bulbs. I've never experienced any irritation myself.

If you have ever traveled through the South, you may have noticed it growing up and over fences and signposts along the highway. Large, bright yellow, orange to red trumpet-shaped flowers appear from mid-summer to fall. Trumpet Creeper is popular world-wide in those areas where it can be grown for its flowers.

Foliage of Trumpet Creeper is pinnately compound, meaning that each leaf, up to 12" long, has leaflets that grow off to the side of the "stem". Vines will climb anything up to 40' high, attaching themselves so tightly that if removed they take some of the structure with them. That shouldn't be a problem as long as the plant is intended to cover permanently. Surfaces that may require maintenance, such as wood requiring paint, should be kept free of Trumpet Creeper.

Campsis radicans is cold-hardy in USDA climate zones 4 through 10. It flowers best in full sun, but will grow in full sun or shade in well-drained soil with average to poor fertility. If planted in shade, it will find something to climb and keep going until it enjoys sunlight. Plants are drought tolerant when established and heat-loving.

Because the flowers are exceptionally attractive to hummingbirds, it is usually planted with that purpose in mind. It is best planted next to a permanent structure. A solid wood post, masonry wall, dead tree trunk or living tree will do just fine. I've seen it planted beside a vertical post so that it engulfs it, forms its own support and looks like a tree itself.

Trumpet Creeper can be effective as a ground cover for erosion control in large areas, but it needs room to grow. If allowed to grow as a ground cover, it will certainly do so, but will climb the first chance it gets.

Prepare the planting bed for Trumpet Creeper by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep. Add enough soil to raise the bed at least 4" above the surrounding ground level. This will help to promote good drainage. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil. Fertilizer may be used. If you choose to do so, incorporate 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Highly fertile soil will cause Trumpet Creeper to grow like a rocket. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant Trumpet Creeper 18" to 36" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. If you are planting bare root vines, the roots should be spread out in the hole. Do not plant them any deeper than they grew previously. You should be able to see a difference in the plant tissue at the previous soil line. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the roots. If you are planting container grown stock, do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" deep.

If the plant is stressed during planting, it will usually drop its leaves as a protective measure. While it is unsightly and may be worrisome to the novice, maintaining proper soil moisture will encourage new leaves to sprout, and away you go.

If planted in an appropriate area, Campsis radicans is a fine plant that is very effective as an ornamental vine and hummingbird lure.

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