Coreopsis - The Cheerful, Easy-Care Plant for Summer Color!

 

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GoGardenWalks Phinizy Swamp Nature Park, Augusta, Georgia

 

 

 History, like a swamp, can be dark and murky, and just as fascinating. Phinizy Swamp covers thousands of acres of wetlands. It's home to otters, beavers, alligators, herons, ospreys, eagles, and many more. Archaeologists believe that humans inhabited this mire for at least 10 thousand years, maybe more. Follow us as we explore Phinizy Swamp Nature Park, it's history and it's present.

 

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Social Distancing Is For The Birds, Too.

 

As much as we loathe social distancing, it can be a good thing. Disease transmission is diminished when we insist on a bit more personal space. This is true even for the common cold. The principle holds for people and for the birds.

Birds can carry diseases, too. According to Medical News Today, “birds and their droppings can carry over 60 diseases.” While bird diseases certainly pass from bird to bird, some can even be transmitted to humans. And it’s not just avian flu that we can worry about. Others include:

• “Histoplasmosis is a respiratory disease that may be fatal. It results from a fungus growing in dried bird droppings.
• Candidiasis is a yeast or fungus infection spread by pigeons. The disease affects the skin, the mouth, the respiratory system, the intestines and the urogenital tract, especially the vagina. It is a growing problem for women, causing itching, pain and discharge.
• Cryptococcosis is caused by yeast found in the intestinal tract of pigeons and starlings. The illness often begins as a pulmonary disease and may later affect the central nervous system. Since attics, cupolas, ledges, schools, offices, warehouses, mills, barns, park buildings, signs, etc. are typical roosting and nesting sites, the fungus is apt to found in these areas.
• St. Louis Encephalitis, an inflammation of the nervous system, usually causes drowsiness, headache and fever. It may even result in paralysis, coma or death. St. Louis encephalitis occurs in all age groups, but is especially fatal to persons over age 60. The disease is spread by mosquitoes which have fed on infected house sparrow, pigeons and house finches carrying the Group B virus responsible for St. Louis encephalitis.
• Salmonellosis often occurs as "food poisoning" and can be traced to pigeons, starlings and sparrows. The disease bacteria are found in bird droppings; dust from droppings can be sucked through ventilators and air conditioners, contaminating food and cooking surfaces in restaurants, homes and food processing plants.
• E.coli. Cattle carry E. coli 0157:H7. When birds peck on cow manure, the E. coli go right through the birds and the bird droppings can land on or in a food or water supply.

"Besides being direct carriers of disease, nuisance birds are frequently associated with over 50 kinds of ectoparasites, which can work their way throughout structures to infest and bite humans. About two-thirds of these pests may be detrimental to the general health and well-being of humans and domestic animals. The rest are considered nuisance or incidental pests.

A few examples of ectoparasites include:

• “Bed bugs (Cimex lectularius) may consume up to five times their own weight in blood drawn from hosts which include humans and some domestic animals. In any extreme condition, victims may become weak and anemic. Pigeons, starlings and house sparrows are known to carry bed bugs.
• Chicken mites (Dermanyssus gallinae) are known carriers of encephalitis and may also cause fowl mite dermatitis and acariasis. While they subsist on blood drawn from a variety of birds, they may also attack humans. They have been found on pigeons, starlings and house sparrows.
• Yellow mealworms (Tenebrio molitor), perhaps the most common beetle parasites of people in the United States, live in pigeon nests. It is found in grain or grain products, often winding up in breakfast cereals, and may cause intestinal canthariasis and hymenolespiasis.
• West Nile Virus while West Nile is technically not transmitted to humans from birds, humans can get infected by the bite of a mosquito who has bitten an infected bird. The obvious lesson is that the fewer birds there are in any given area, the better. This translates into a smaller chance of an infected bird in that area, a smaller chance of a mosquito biting an infected bird and then biting a human.”

So, what can we do about it?

Medicines are out of the question. How can we treat wild birds? The populations are too great, and indiscriminate broadcasting can do more harm than good.

Sensible steps can be taken to slow disease transmission. Here are a few examples:

• Keep an eye out for birds that seem lethargic, have fluffed feathers, or won’t fly away when approached. They might be ill. Report them to your regional Department of Natural Resources or local animal control office. Tufts Wildlife Clinic has more to say about this.
• Don't handle sick birds.
• Provide several feeders located in different areas so fewer birds will congregate together. 
• Clean and disinfect bird feeders and bird baths regularly with a 5% solution of bleach.
• Use separate brushes, scrubbers and other tools for cleaning them. Don’t use them for other purposes, and don’t bring them into the house.
• Provide fresh food, throwing away any that seems rancid or moldy.
• Feed only as much as the birds will consume in a couple of days.
• Move your bird feeders occasionally so that droppings, seed hulls and discarded food doesn’t accumulate beneath them. Rake and disperse the debris.
• Change water in bird baths every couple of days.
• Wear a mask when cleaning bird feeders, baths, and cleaning under them. I know you’re tired of being told to wear a mask, but you don’t want to breath airborne disease spores, if any are present.

Hopefully, a bit of care will help to mitigate the spread of disease among us and our feathered friends.

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Homes For The Buzzin' Bees

"There ain't no words for the beauty, the splendor, the wonder."

Photo by Dominicus Johannes Bergsma/Wikimedia Commons.

Gardening is not just about growing pretty flowers and delicious foods. It’s also about enjoying nature, and some of the most fun to watch are the little flying creatures that hover and dart about. There are, of course, the butterflies, honeybees and bumblebees. But most interesting – to me, anyway – are the tiny little bees. Some are brown. Some black. Some iridescent. These are the native bees, sometimes called sweat bees, cutter bees, or mason bees. They are essential to good pollination. It feels good to provide a place where they like to hang around.

It’s well-known that flowers provide bees with food. That’s they real reason they’re there. Their acts of pollination are actually happy accidents that they perform while brushing against pollen in their quests. 

But apart from planting native wildflowers, we can also attract them by providing homes. Many of us think of bee hives when we think of homes for bees...or hair.

I let it fly in the breeze

And get caught in the trees

Give a home for the fleas in my hair

A home for fleas

A hive for the buzzin' bees

A nest for birds

There ain't no words

For the beauty, the splendor, the wonder

Of my...

Hair, hair, hair, hair…

-The Cowsills

You know where I'm coming from. But that’s not it. Those little bees nest in surprising little hideaways like tunnels excavated by beetles, crevices, broken branches, holes in the ground, rotten logs, abandoned lumber, old reeds and hollowed-out stems. Some of which we can provide with ease. 

Photo by Beatriz Moisset/Wikipedia Commons

Here are some simple ideas:

• Find old logs, and drill deep, horizontal holes of various diameters – between 1/16 inch and 1/2 inch – in the ends.
• You can do the same with dead trees, but don’t drill into living ones.
• Gather hollow reeds about 6” to 8” long. Miscanthus spp., Arundo donax and pampas grasses are good examples. Bundle them together, and tie with twine. Place them horizontally around the garden in clay pots, or hang them under the eaves of your tool shed to keep them dry. 
• If you’re ambitious, construct little structures resembling bird houses with the fronts removed, and stuff them with the reeds.
• You can do the same with lengths of old Rubus canes, Sambucus stems or Chinaberry (Melia azedarach) sticks.
• Bamboo canes will serve well, and are longer lasting, but the segments might need to be reamed out with a drill to make the nesting spaces deep enough.
• If you intend to use old lumber, avoid pressure-treated woods which could be toxic to bees.

These are things that you can do with your kids, teaching them something about nature and to be kind to creatures.

To be sure, there are purists out there who would say, “Oh NO! That’s not the way to do it! What a terrible idea.” But, frankly, I’ve never known bees to follow all the rules. Some drill holes in my house, stored lumber, and even try to nest in my electrical outlets. I say, “Don’t stress out about it.” Have fun. Do good.

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About The Cardinals

Northern Cardinal

And how to attract them

When the word Cardinal is mentioned, four things come to mind – the bird, the baseball team, a church official and something of major significance. All of these converge in the bird.

The bird – crested and often clothed in bright red – is ubiquitous. Depending on the species, its range spans most of the United States, into Mexico and South America.

There are three perky species in the genus, two of which are common in North America.

Northern Cardinal - Cardinalis cardinalis

The Northern Cardinal male is crested, brilliant red with a black mask. The female is olive with a reddish cast. It’s so common, widespread and stunning that this species has been designated the official state bird of Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, North Carolina, Ohio, Virginia, and West Virginia. It is not the state bird of Missouri.

Though the bird is figured in the logo of the St. Louis Cardinals baseball team, the team was not named for the bird, but for a color in their uniforms. That color – cardinal – is the shade of the cassocks of certain high-ranking officials in the Catholic Church. Important, indeed!

The Northern Cardinal ranges from Maine and Canada, throughout the eastern U.S., westward into Texas, into Mexico and as far south as Guatemala.

It feeds on fruits, seeds – particularly black oil sunflower – and insects, which its thick, sharp beak can dispatch in short order. These are easy enough to find.

The Northern Cardinal sometimes displays the curious behavior of pecking at glass and other shiny surfaces. This is because it’s very territorial, especially in spring. That reflected image of itself is taken to be a threat.

Pyrrhuloxia - Cardinalis sinuatus

The Pyrrhuloxia or Desert Cardinal is mostly found in the arid southwest and Mexico. It is also crested and resembles the Northern Cardinal, though the male is colored gray with a red mask, breast and crest. The female is gray sans mask.

Its diet also consists of insects, fruits – particularly cactus – and seeds.

Vermilion Cardinal - Cardinalis phoeniceus

This one is quite similar to the Northern Cardinal with vibrant coloration and a more distinctive crest. It’s native only to the South American countries of Colombia and Venezuela. Since you won’t likely see it in your yard, you don’t need to worry about feeding it.

If you build it, they will come – certainly!

As noted before, cardinals are common in the United States. But they love to hide and nest in dense shrubbery. A good cardinal habitat will include a landscape of shrubs and low trees, seed-bearing grasses, flowers - particularly of the Asteraceae family.

Northern Cardinals are crazy about sunflower seeds, but they also eat cracked corn, safflower, peanut pieces, milo and millet. I love watching them adorn the winter branches of crape myrtles, devouring the seeds.

Pyrrhuloxia are fond of sunflowers and cracked corn. Bird-watchers in the Southwest should plant flowering, fruit-producing cacti.

If you really want to view them up close, seed feeders will surely draw them in. A vast selection of tray feeders, hoppers, tube feeders and ground feeders are for your choosing. However, if you’re a cat owner, or neighborhood cats visit you, skip the ground feeders.

Cardinals stand out in the crowd. Offer them attractive habitats, hiding places, water for bathing, their favorite foods, and you’ll be rewarded with a yard full of these delightful little creatures.

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About The Orioles

And how to attract them

For a type of blackbird, orioles are exceptionally colorful. Bright yellow, orange to chestnut colors contrast beautifully against black plumage punctuated with splashes of white. 

There are nine species native to North America – Baltimore Oriole (Icterus galbula), Orchard Oriole (Icterus spurius), Bullock’s Oriole (Icterus bullockii), Hooded Oriole (Icterus cucullatus), Scott's Oriole (Icterus parisorum), Audubon's Oriole (Icterus graduacauda), Altamira Oriole (Icterus gularis), Spot-breasted Oriole (Icterus pectoralis), and Streak-backed Oriole (Icterus pustulatus). Their ranges sometimes overlap, so it’s possible to observe one or more of them in your area.

Baltimore Oriole

The Baltimore Oriole is the most famous by far, if not for its abundance then certainly because of the Major League Baseball team that bears the name. But the bird was here first. They’re so named because their colors are similar to the heraldic crest of the Calvert family and Lord Baltimore, after whom Baltimore, Maryland is named. 

Its head is black, breast is orange, and white patches adorn the wings. As with many bird species, the difference between male and female colors is usually quite different – the males normally sporting brighter colors.

They range from eastern British Columbia to Nova Scotia, southward through Texas to Central America, Florida and Cuba. Their breeding range is from Canada to Louisiana, Alabama and Georgia. They overwinter in the warmest climates south of the U.S. border. In the United States, we’ll hear them early in spring high in the trees where they’re searching for insects and nesting materials. Their nests dangle from tree branches.

Orchard Oriole

The Orchard Oriole is slightly smaller than the Baltimore Oriole, and its range is a bit smaller, too. Nevertheless, it can be found in spring from southernmost Manitoba and Ontario, southward through Texas to Mexico, and eastward from Maryland to North Florida. 

Its head is black, and breast color is a darker chestnut. It lacks the large white wing patches of the Baltimore Oriole. 

It’s mostly found in shrubs and orchards, particularly near water sources. They hang around for a briefer period during breeding season – arriving in late spring and leaving by mid-summer. 

Bullock's Oriole

Bullock’s Oriole sojourns in the west. It ranges from southernmost Alberta and Saskatchewan to California, through Texas and into Mexico. They can be found in open woodlands, and shrubs and trees near water sources, which are especially needed in the arid southwest.

The crown of the head is black and bright orange with a black stripe across the eye. The breast is also orange. White patches and streaks adorn the wings.

Hooded Oriole

The Hooded Oriole ranges further west, from California to Nevada, southward through Texas and Mexico. They can also be found in open woodlands and yards, especially among palms from which they find nesting fibers. They actually hang their nests among the fronds to avoid detection.

Their wings, backs and tails are black, as are the lower half of their faces. Their breasts and heads range in color from bright yellow to bright orange. White streaks on their wings.

Scott's Oriole

Scott’s Oriole travels from southernmost Idaho and easternmost Nevada through Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, Texas and into Mexico. It frequents deserts and mountain slopes, flitting and flirting among yuccas, pines, palms and junipers.

Scott’s Orioles have black heads, backs and wings streaked with white. Breasts and bellies are lemon-yellow.

Audubon's Oriole

Audubon’s Oriole is very much like the Scott’s Oriole, but does not have the black back. It’s doubtful that you’ll spy them very often. They live in southernmost Texas and in limited regions of Mexico. They’re rather shy creatures, searching among brush and woodlands for insects. If you see one, consider yourself lucky.

Altamira Oriole

The Altamira Oriole is another you’ll rarely see unless you live in the Texas Rio Grande region. Their heads are bright orange. They sport black masks and a black streak down the center of the breast. Backs, wings and tails are black with white streaks. 

Look for them in parks, open woodlands, and high branches in trees near water. As with other orioles, their nest can be seen dangling from heights.

Spot-breasted Oriole

Spot-breasted Orioles inhabit a very limited range in the United States in eastern Florida from Cape Canaveral to Miami, only because they were introduced there sometime after World War II. Otherwise, they’re native to the lower western coast of Mexico and into Central America.

They’ve become somewhat common in Florida. They look very much like the Altamira Oriole, but have black spots on the breast spreading toward the wings.

Streak-backed Oriole

Streak-backed Orioles visit the southwestern United States, but are mostly found in western Mexico and southward into Central America. It’s flame orange on its head, belly, breast and back. A black streak marks its breast and black streaks run down its back. Its tail is black. White streaks adorn its wings.

You may find them in arid grasslands, open woodlands and shrubs. They are very much attracted to various mimosa plants, which are rich in nectar, so homeowners in those areas would plant them to attract these avian gems.

Which brings us to the next subject.

How to attract orioles.

Photo credit: Lori Meehleder

If you build it, they will come...maybe.

It just so happens that most orioles are suckers for sweet fruits and nectar. Yes, they eat insects, but they  adore sugar.

Dark and brightly colored fruits, in particular, attract their attentions. Oranges, blackberries, raspberries, blue and purple grapes, plums, blackberries, raspberries, red cherries and crab apples will keep them coming back. You can provide them in feeders, or better still, plant a few shrubs and trees in your yard!

Split oranges in half and secure them on nails or dowels. Chop up pieces of apple to present in bowls or shallow cups. Do the same with grapes and berries. Would you like to provide an opulent feast? Put a few dollops of grape jelly in the bowls. 

Nectar rich flowers such as Trumpet Vine will entice them. Not only is the nectar sweet, but the color is just right, too – bright orange and red.

Those orioles that are native to the Southwest and South will also feed on yucca flowers. Yucca plants are very drought-tolerant, too. They’re perfect for xeriscaping, whether of necessity or simply to save on your water bill.

Since they’ll drop in to feed, why not provide the orioles with nesting materials. Oriole nests are complex things, sort of like dangling purses to hold their young. Fibrous plants will do the trick. Palms and yucca plants are very fibrous. Southerners should be able to grow them with ease. In colder regions, orioles will make good use of long grass blades, hair, threads and string, even plastic strips. Though it’s best not to leave plastic blowing around, it’s good to know that errant pieces can be used for good.

Orioles are certainly some of the most colorful bird species of North America, and they’re more interesting to birders because they don’t hang around very long in their breeding areas. So, be prepared for their coming in the spring. Purchase your oriole feeders, buy grape jelly (!), plant your fibers and save string for the next season so you can enjoy these exotic-looking creatures while they last.

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Have you considered growing a pollinator garden?

Have you ever considered making a place in your landscape specifically for native pollinators? Doing so can help preserve those that are struggling to exist. You might not think of pollinators such as bees,  wasps and butterflies as being under threat, but many are. We usually blame overuse of insecticides as being the culprit, but there are others. Diseases, parasites and predators take their toll. By providing a pollinator-friendly habitat, you help them thrive, as well as enjoy their presence. You also gain a sense of pride in doing good for the environment.

You don't need much space to establish a pollinator garden. A few plants on your deck or patio can attract them. If you have a large area available, by all means, use it.

Pollinators have three basic needs, common even to you and me - food, water, and shelter for places to hide and begin their little families.

Food Sources - Host Plants

We picture bees and butterflies feeding on nectar from flowers, but juvenile pollinators don't do that. Young ones feed on stems and foliage, and not always of the same plants. Proper food supplies should include both.

To determine exactly which you'll need to plant may require a bit of study on your part. Good plants for pollinators include aromatic herbs, annuals, perennials, and even some weeds. GoGardenNow.com features plant collections for butterflies and other pollinators. Plant a wide variety. Select species that will provide blooms throughout the growing season. Research the species of pollinators commonly found in your area, then provide the foods they enjoy.

Remember that native pollinators often prefer native plants, so be sure to include some in or around your garden. It's not a good idea to gather plants from the wild. Some may be endangered and protected. Sow seed where possible. For mature plants, search for those nurseries that specialize in native species. There are a growing number of them. Native Plant societies can help you find sources.

Water

Pollinators need water. You'll often find bees gathered along the edges of bird baths. Butterflies will cluster around mud puddles, birdbaths, and even dung. Be sure to provide water sources for them. Still, shallow water is best. You needn't provide the dung.

Shelter, Nesting Sites and Materials

You'd be surprised at how resourceful little creatures can be when it comes to establishing homes.

That aside, pollinators will burrow in plant stems, hide in flower pots, small brush piles, and even nest in bundled drinking straws. Dryer lint, cotton balls, and the mud from puddles will be used for building materials.

After providing for your pollinators' needs, please be careful not to lure them to destruction. By that I mean, avoid using pesticides and herbicides in or around your pollinator garden. Both organic and synthetic pesticides can be harmful. Herbicides can kill the very plants you provided for pollinators' benefit.

Pollinator gardens fascinate young and old, but especially the young. Remember how enthralled you were as a child while watching butterflies and bees? Pass the feeling along to your own children, grandchildren, or even to kids in the neighborhood. You and they will be delighted that you did.

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Zombie Deer Disease Apocalypse?

Zombie Deer Disease Is Alarming

This article was passed along to me. It is disturbing. An infection called Chronic Wasting Disease is on the rise. It’s commonly called “zombie deer disease” because infected animals become very thin, disoriented, and have a vacant look in their eyes. “Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) has been reported in at least 26 states in the continental United States and in four provinces in Canada”, the article reports.

“CWD is a transmissible spongiform encephalopathy disease found in deer, elk, moose, reindeer, and caribou. It is a progressive disease that is always fatal.” It is similar to bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE, also known as “mad cow disease”).

“The disease is believed to be caused by abnormal proteins called prions, which are thought to cause damage to other normal prion proteins that can be found in tissues throughout the body. They are most often found in the brain and spinal cord, leading to brain damage and development of prion diseases. Infected brain cells eventually burst, leaving behind microscopic empty spaces in the brain matter that give it a ‘spongy’ look.”

Zombie Deer Disease Is Spreading

The disease is spread through saliva, feces and urine of infected animals. Contact with diseased tissue such as the brain, spinal cord and lymph nodes can also transmit it.

Prior to 2000, it was only documented in a few counties in Colorado, Wyoming and Nebraska. It has now spread to areas as far east as Virginia, Pennsylvania and Maryland, and as far south as Tennessee, Arkansas, Mississippi and Texas. See this map for greater detail.

What does this have to do with gardeners?

Unfortunately, deer seem to be more prevalent in yards and gardens than ever before, even in urban areas. Until now, their depredations have been limited to vegetable patches and flower beds. Greater problems may arise.

Though experts say that CWD is not transmissible to humans at this time, the same was said about BSE a few years back. Then it was discovered that BSE could infect humans. So, scientists are being cautious.

How should we respond?

• Don’t panic. Remember that there are no documented cases of Chronic Wasting Disease having been transmitted to humans. Furthermore, cases of CWD in the Cervidae family – deer, elk, moose, reindeer, etc. – are limited, at this time. Chances are your county doesn’t show up on the map. If it does, the number of cases are probably quite few. If you live in or near a county where CWD has been documented, you should:
• Avoid contact with deer saliva, feces and urine. While it’s unlikely that a moose will lick you, or a deer pee on you, you or your children might find deer feces in your yard. Don’t touch it. (You wouldn't really, would you?)
• Check with your state Department of Natural Resources Game and Wildlife Division for statements on CWD.
• Hunters should wear gloves when field-dressing harvested deer, and avoid contact with brain, nerve and spinal cord tissue.
• Hunters harvesting deer in areas where CWD has been documented should consider having the meat tested for the disease. “As a precaution, they should avoid eating deer and elk tissues known to harbor the CWD agent (e.g., brain, spinal cord, eyes, spleen, tonsils, lymph nodes) from areas where CWD has been identified.”

For more information, read the following:

Experts: Yes, chronic wasting disease in deer is a public health issue — for people

Letter to the government of Canada

Centers For Disease Control (CDC) article on Prion Diseases

CDC article on CWD prevention

Eating ‘zombie’ deer meat is safe, researchers say

Here Are 5 Vines That Will Attract Birds To Your Garden

As I noted in a previous article, bird-watchers who want to see them up close usually attract them with bird feeders, houses and baths. There are, however, other ways of enticing them that shouldn't be overlooked. The landscape can be transformed into a bird sanctuary by including plants that provide food and shelter. Ornamental vines are important components of such a plan.

Here are 5 ornamental vines that birds find irresistible.

A Clarion Call For Hummingbirds 

Trumpet Vine (pictured above) or Trumpet Creeper (Campsis radicans) is a climbing deciduous vine native to the southern United States. Travelers may have noticed it growing up and over fences and signposts along the highway. Large, bright yellow, orange to red trumpetshaped flowers appear from midsummer to fall. Campsis is popular world-wide for its stunning flowers, and because it attracts hummingbirds.

Campsis is cold-hardy in USDA climate zones 4 through 10. For best results, plant in full sun, well-drained soil with average to poor fertility. Plants are drought tolerant when established and heat-loving. It is best planted next to a permanent structure for support.

Yellow Garlands of Spring 

Gelsemium sempervirens – known as Carolina Jasmine, Carolina Jessamine, Yellow Jasmine, and whatever else comes to the viewer’s mind – is another great native plant that provides nectar for the birds. It’s grown mostly for its glorious early spring flowers. Southerners wax nostalgic about it. Unfortunately, it is cold hardy only in USDA climate zones 7 through 9. The flowers usually appear before the hummingbirds arrive, so is best planted as a nectar source for other species. I’ve written much more about it in a blog article, Carolina Jessamine – The Yellow Garlands of Spring.

Wild and Wonderful 

Most of us think of English ivy and all its varieties as a rampant but boring evergreen covering, or worse. But look closer and you’ll find a plant with lots of interesting variations that can not only provide mass ground- or wall covering, but also shelter and an ornamental food source for birds.

Some folks dislike ivy for it's vigorous growth habit. The very characteristic that makes it a fine ground cover can render it unwelcome; it covers ground. It's true that ivy can be troublesome if completely unchecked, but ivy does not damage trees or sound structures. It isn't a parasite. It cannot harm a mature tree, but it could outlive an old one. It cannot collapse a sound building. Ivy is a major food source for many birds, and the fruits ripen up just in time to fatten them before winter arrives. Hedera ivies also provide abundant shelter.

It Keeps Institutions From Crumbling 

Boston Ivy - Parthenocissus tricuspidata - is native to east Asia, not Massachusetts. Each leaf is composed of three lobes. In juvenile foliage, each lobe is very distinct. It is a vigorous climber, as anyone who has seen it on a wall knows well. Fall brings bright colors of yellow, orange, red or burgundy. The walls it adorns seem draped in a majestic tapestry. It is also widely used to cover trellises, pergolas, and as an ornamental ground cover for erosion control. Small flowers appear in July or August followed by fruits in October or November, and birds love 'em.

Boston ivy grows in any fertile, well-drained soil, and thrives in USDA climate zones 48. In other words, it'll probably perform well in your garden.

A Native With Great Possibilities 

Virginia Creeper - Parthenocissus quinquefolia - is native to many parts of North America, from Quebec to Florida, and westward to Colorado. It's a member of the grape (Vitaceae) family. The relationship is easy to see when you look at the flowers and fruits, but I don't recommend them for human consumption. Each leaf is composed of five leaflets. It climbs vigorously. Fall brings bright colors of yellow, orange, red or burgundy. The depth of fall color seems to depend upon available sunlight. Virginia Creeper is widely used as an ornamental ground cover, but its fall color and ability to cover walls, trellises and pergolas makes it popular as well.

Virginia Creeper thrives USDA climate zones 3-9, a broader range than Boston ivy will tolerate. Its fruit and dense growth habit make it very attractive to birds for food and shelter.

These suggested vines, along with many bulbs, perennials, annuals, shrubs and trees will be welcome additions to your landscape from the birds' points of view.

Remember to think outside the bird feeder when you plan to feed the birds.

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5 Flowering Perennials That Attract Birds

Bird-watchers who want to see them up close usually attract them with bird feeders, houses and baths. Why not? The avian friends are provided their creature comforts, and we enjoy the pleasure of their company. But they are also attracted to natural sources, especially foods. By planting flowers that produce seed and nectar, we can beautify our landscapes and feed the birds at the same time.

When choosing them, consider bloom time, the types of seeds and nectar produced, and the species they would attract. From early to late, nectar to seed, this will provide extended seasons of color and bird-watching interest. Otherwise, planting for the birds should follow the same principles you would for planning any garden.

There is also a financial benefit; perennial herbs and vines produce nectar and seeds season-after-season so you don’t have to buy so many so often.

You must remember that to grow flowers successfully for the birds, you shouldn’t dead-head them,i.e. remove the spent flowers. It defeats the purpose if the seeds aren’t allowed to mature. Another consideration is that plants should be chosen for their minimal maintenance requirements. Selections that require pesticides to prevent insects and diseases present a hazard to the birds.

Here are 5 flowering perennials that the birds and you will love.

Coreopsis

Coreopsis is a bright-flowered plant that resembles large asters. In fact, Coreopsis is a member of the Aster family. Most are yellow, but some are in pink shades, too.

Coreopsis is commonly known as tickseed, and for good reasons. Coreopsis means "bug-like", in reference to the little dry fruits called achenes which in some ways resemble insects. Not only are the seeds small and brown, their hair-like structures cling to passers-by who brush against them; and they don't just drop off, they must be picked off. Thus the name, Tickseed. Birds love them!

Dendranthema

Dendranthema, commonly known as “hardy garden mum”, is a gorgeous, old-fashioned looking plant with blossoms that resemble large daisies. Colors vary, but my favorite shade is pink. It’s what you might expect to see in your grandmother’s garden. Maintenance is minimal. It blooms in late summer or fall. Birds are attracted to their abundant seeds.

Echinacea

Echinacea is known worldwide for its showy flowers, reputed herbal remedies, and abundant seeds. It’s native to the United States and Canada, and known by many names including Hedgehog or Purple Cone flower, and Comb flower. All because of the very obvious seeds. Birds notice them, too. The handsome flowers are often used in decorative fresh and dried arrangements. The plants require very little maintenance, are drought-tolerant, and will grow just about anywhere.

Rudbeckia

Rudbeckia is one of my summer favorites, and not mine only. I often pass cars parked beside highways, the driver and passengers strolling among bright-flowered patches to pluck bouquets. Birds also love the seeds of Black-eyed Susans.

They’re mighty easy to grow, especially R. fulgida, which is the great-granddaddy of the most reliable perennial cultivars. If they’ll grow untended beside the highway, they ought to thrive for you. Read my article, Rudbeckia – Where Black-eyed Susans Grow, for in-depth info on this memorable and ever-popular selection.

Sedum

I admit that Sedum is not the first flower that comes to mind to those who want to feed the birds, but I want to remedy that. As you know, sedum flowers prolifically. All those tiny jewels at shoe level are perfect for ground-feeding species.

Beside the fact that the seeds nourish birds, sedum is a marvelous ground cover for filling cracks and crevices in rock gardens and stone walls, and for cascading out of containers. What’s more, sedum will grow just about anywhere. If you garden from USDA climate zone 3 to 9, sedum will probably thrive for you.

These suggestions, of course, do not represent all the plant choices to consider. Asters, Centaurea, Cosmos, Gaillardia, Helianthus, Leucanthemum, Papaver, Solidago, Tagetes, and even those cursed Taraxacum (Dandelions), attract birds. Think outside the bird feeder when you think of feeding the birds.!

For these and many other bird-friendly plants, GoGardenNow.com!

5 Ways To Transform Your Yard Into A Bird Sanctuary

5 Ways To Transform Your Yard Into A Bird Sanctuary

I know what you’re going to say. “I see birds in my yard all the time. What more do I need to do?”

I’m glad you asked.

Fact is, birds really could use your help. Sure, diseases and weather-related hardships take their toll. Habitat is diminishing in some areas, or the neighborhood just isn’t what it used to be.Cats, especially of the feral persuasion, are estimated to kill 1.3 – 4.0 billion birds annuallyin the United States. Accidents and collisions with man-made vehicles and structures account for the deaths of millions more.

With those things in mind, here are five ways to transform your yard into a bird sanctuary:

1. Make your yard a welcoming place for birds. Provide the basic things birds need – food, water, shelter, and places to nest. Plan your landscape with your feather friends in mind. Include shrubs and trees, and especially native plants that produce their favorite foods. Cedar waxwings swarm my holly and mulberry trees for the berries in spring. Pileated woodpeckers swoop in to peck the bright red magnolia seeds from their pods. Provide bird baths and shallow pools for water. Erect bird houses, nesting boxes, and leave nesting materials about for them to snuggle up in.
2. Provide foods they’ll actually eat. Black-oil sunflower seeds work best for our birds, while millet and nyjer seeds go mostly untouched. We found that some brands of suet are ignored, but others are devoured in short order. If you’re not sure what will work for you, experiment with small amounts of different foods, or ask a bird-lover in your area. When you get it figured out, make sure you keep an ample supply in your feeders.
3. Keep it clean. You wouldn’t want to eat in a nasty restaurant, would you? Neither do the birds. So, keep the feeders and water sources clean. A monthly scouring works. Wooden feeders should be lightly brushed to remove caked-on food. Metal suet cages and plastic bird feeders can probably go in the dishwasher. Birdbaths should be scrubbed with a wire brush. Keep fresh water on tap. If discarded seeds and hulls begin to accumulate, rake them up and get rid of them. And don’t forget to tidy up in and around the bird houses, too. Germs, mites and untold kinds of pestilence will congregate in dirty nesting boxes.
4. Prevent accidents from happening. Most of us have heard the sickening thunk of a bird flying into a window. It might’ve thought it was portal into a better world, a way to escape, or the image (mirrored) of a foe. At any rate, the window turned out to be none of those things. You can avoid such accidents by attaching decals or stickers to your big windows. See-through screens outside the windows might soften the blow. Not only windows, but who-knows-what-else can hurt the birds: porch fans, low-hanging strings, hammocks, nets and chemicals can be hazardous. Scout for them, and think how you might mitigate or eliminate the danger.
5. Now, about those cats. Even precious puddy tats are capable of catching innocent little birds to leave as gifts on your doorstep. If you can’t or won’t keep your cats indoors or feral beasts roam about, mount your feeders, baths and nesting boxes so the felines can’t get at them. And, for Pete’s sake, don’t feed your birds on the ground.

These few steps should help you help the birds. Think how satisfied you’ll feel knowing the good you’ve done for the birds.

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Got Milkweed? Feeding Hungry Monarch Butterflies.

Credit: Kenneth Dwain Harrelson under GNU Free Documentation License

It's winter. Monarch butterflies (Danaus plexippus) from the eastern U.S. are vacationing in Mexico, hanging around in trees and soaking up the sun. They've been doing this for a long time - no one knows how long - so it has become a family tradition with them. It won't be long, though, before the weather begins to warm and they'll head back north to feed and breed.

Aside from lepidopterophiles and passersby enjoying their beauty, few cared much about their habits. But that has changed. It is believed that Monarch populations are diminishing, so saving their species has become a cause célèbre. 

Everyone seems to be getting in on the act. Botanical gardens are establishing butterfly gardens with favored enticements, especially milkweed. "Enlightened" homeowners are letting their yards spring up with weeds, ostensibly to save the monarch. (Neighbors might think they're just lazy.)

Butterfly friendly landscape with milkweed

If you'd like to "save the monarchs", or just spend less time weeding, and mask your sloth with altruism, consider including milkweed in your landscape. There are several native species to choose from:

Clasping Milkweed (Asclepias amplexicaulis) grows in dry, sandy soils and likes lots of sunshine. It can reach 3½ feet in height. Leaves are shaded with pink. The fragrant flowers are pink to purple, and bloom in early to mid-summer. In addition to monarchs, they also attract hummingbirds, bees and other species of butterflies.

Mountain or Poke Milkweed (Asclepias exaltata) grows on moist, shady areas in cooler climates. It grows to 6 feet in height. Flowers are white and green.

Eastern Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata var. pulchra) prefers wet areas such as bog gardens. Its stems are 2-6 feet in height. The pale to deep pink flowers open July through September. In addition to monarchs, it attracts other buttefly species and nectar loving critters. 

Fourleaf Milkweed (Asclepias quadrifolia) likes full to partial sun and dry soils. Soil pH should be a bit on the high side, so add a little lime. Fragrant flowers are cream to lilac. It grows to 2.5 feet.

Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is a common roadside flower. Clumps of branching stems reach 2.5 feet in height and bear large clusters of wildly brilliant orange blossoms that attract all sorts of nectar-lovers. It flowers mid- to late summer. Some cultivated varieties display mixed yellow and orange flowers.

Red-ring Milkweed (Asclepias variegata) likes sunny areas with dry to moist soils. It is an impressive plant, producing white, snowball-like flowers on purplish stems to 3 feet tall. The "red-ring" refers to a thin, colorful ring that surrounds the middle of the flower. It also attracts a host of nectar-loving creatures. Flowers appear May to June.

Whorled Milkweed (Asclepias verticillata) thrives in dry to moist soils in sun to partial shade. Note that soil pH should be near 7.0.  Slender, branched stems produce whorls of long, narrow leaves and loads of small flower clusters from June through September. The flowers are white to pale green, sometimes with a hint of purple.

For those of you who contend with pesky deer, you'll be pleased to know that deer hate milkweeds because of the irritating, milky latex which most produce. (Thus, the name, "milkweed".)

If you would like to learn more about monarch butterflies in your area, contact your state department of natural resources or one of the organizations linked below.

Do you have questions? Contact us at goGardenNow.

Comments? Please post in the comment section. We'd love to hear from you.

Here are the web links:

Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources 
Arizona Game and Fish Department
Arkansas Department of Environmental Quality
California Department of Fish and Game
Colorado Department of Natural Resources
Connecticut Department of Energy and Environmental Protection
Delaware Department of Natural Resources and Environmental Control
District of Columbia Department of Energy and Environment
Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission
Georgia Department of Natural Resources
Idaho Department of Environmental Quality
Illinois Department of Natural Resources
Indiana Department of Natural Resources
Iowa Department of Natural Resources
Maryland Department of Natural Resources
Michigan Department of Natural Resources
Minnesota Department of Natural Resources
Missouri Department of Natural Resources
Montana Department of Natural Resources and Conservation
Nevada Department of Conservation and Natural Resources
New Jersey Department of Environmental Protection
New Mexico Department of Energy, Minerals, and Natural Resources
North Carolina Department of Environment and Natural Resources
Ohio Department of Natural Resources
Pennsylvania Department of Conservation and Natural Resources
South Carolina Department of Natural Resources
Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency
Texas Parks and Wildlife Department
Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries
Washington State Department of Natural Resources
West Virginia Division of Natural Resources
Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources
Butterfly Houses at goGardenNow.com
Butterfly Feeders at goGardenNow.com
The Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation
Monarch-Butterfly.com  

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