Showing posts with label wildlife habitat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wildlife habitat. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 25, 2026

Fence Rows as Wildlife Nurseries

 Rural meadow with wildflowers and wildlife

There was a time when few farmers looked at a fence row and saw wasted land. The narrow strip of briars, saplings, grasses, vines, and wildflowers between fields was understood to have a purpose. It held the soil together, sheltered livestock from the wind, and quietly raised generation after generation of wildlife. Today, many fence rows have been bulldozed into perfectly clean field edges, but in the process something valuable has disappeared.

A healthy fence row is far more than a boundary. It is a nursery where countless creatures begin their lives.

Nature's Waiting Room

Unlike a freshly mowed lawn or a cultivated field, a fence row offers layers of vegetation. Tall grasses shelter insects. Blackberry thickets provide nesting sites for birds. Young trees give squirrels places to climb, while mature oaks and hickories eventually offer acorns and cavities for owls and woodpeckers.

Every layer creates another home.

Many birds that gardeners enjoy—wrens, cardinals, mockingbirds, towhees, brown thrashers, and eastern bluebirds—depend on shrubby cover during part of their lives. Rabbits hide their young beneath tangled grasses. Box turtles seek refuge beneath leaf litter. Countless native bees tunnel into bare patches of ground or nest inside hollow stems left standing through winter.

A fence row is not empty land. It is an apartment building with thousands of residents.

A Nursery for Beneficial Insects

Gardeners often spend money trying to attract pollinators while overlooking one of the finest insect habitats already available.

Native flowering plants growing along fence rows bloom at different times throughout the year. Goldenrod, asters, ironweed, native sunflowers, milkweed, and dozens of lesser-known species provide nectar and pollen long after cultivated flowers have finished blooming.

These plants sustain:

  • Native bees
  • Hoverflies
  • Lacewings
  • Lady beetles
  • Assassin bugs
  • Parasitic wasps
  • Butterflies
  • Moths

Many of these insects later move into nearby vegetable gardens and orchards, where they pollinate crops or prey upon pests.

A neat, sterile field edge may look tidy, but it produces little life.

Shelter During Hard Times

Wildlife faces its greatest challenges not during spring but during winter, drought, and severe weather.

Fence rows become emergency shelters.

Dense evergreen vines block icy winds. Hollow stems protect overwintering insects. Fallen logs harbor salamanders, beetles, and fungi. Thick grasses trap snow in northern climates and conserve moisture during southern summers.

Even after heavy rains, animals often retreat to the slightly elevated ground where old fence rows have remained undisturbed for decades.

Without these refuges, many creatures simply fail to survive until spring.

Natural Highways Across the Landscape

Imagine trying to cross several miles of open farmland if you were no taller than a rabbit.

For many animals, open ground is dangerous.

Fence rows serve as travel corridors connecting forests, ponds, streams, and meadows. Foxes, raccoons, opossums, snakes, turtles, and countless small mammals move safely beneath their cover. Birds hop from shrub to shrub instead of flying long distances across exposed fields.

These green ribbons knit together habitats that would otherwise become isolated islands.

When every fence row is removed, wildlife populations become fragmented, making it harder for animals to find food, mates, and new territory.

The Value of "Messy"

Modern landscaping often celebrates clean lines and perfect order.

Nature rarely does.

The fallen branch that seems untidy may become a perch for birds hunting insects. A decaying stump supports fungi that feed insects, which in turn feed woodpeckers. Dead standing trees become nesting sites for cavity-nesting birds and roosting bats.

What appears neglected to the human eye often represents excellent habitat.

This doesn't mean allowing invasive species to take over or permitting dangerous trees to fall across roads. Good stewardship still requires management. But there is wisdom in recognizing that every leaf need not be raked and every thicket need not be cleared.

Building Better Gardens

Even suburban gardeners can borrow lessons from traditional fence rows.

Instead of mowing every inch of the property, consider leaving a narrow border planted with native shrubs, grasses, and wildflowers. Add brush piles in quiet corners. Allow seed heads to remain through winter. Plant hedgerows instead of solid privacy fences where practical.

These simple changes create miniature wildlife nurseries that support birds, butterflies, frogs, reptiles, and beneficial insects.

The result is often fewer pest problems and a garden that feels more alive.

Looking Beyond the Fence

Many old farms still possess fence rows that have quietly grown for a century or more. Some contain native plants that have disappeared everywhere else nearby. Others preserve rare wildflowers, medicinal herbs, or ancient trees that escaped the plow simply because they stood beside an old property line.

These forgotten strips of land are living museums.

As development spreads and agriculture becomes increasingly mechanized, preserving even small pockets of wild habitat becomes more important each year.

The next time you pass an overgrown fence line, resist the urge to see only weeds.

Look a little longer.

Somewhere beneath the blackberry canes, a rabbit may be nursing her young. A brood of quail may be hiding beneath the grasses. Native bees may be provisioning their nests. Caterpillars may be feeding tomorrow's songbirds.

What seems like a neglected boundary may actually be one of the busiest nurseries in the countryside—quietly raising the next generation of wildlife while asking almost nothing in return.

Return to GoGardenNow.com 

Friday, August 7, 2026

What Birds Reveal About Insect Activity

 Robins in a back yard 

Most gardeners spend their time watching plants. Experienced gardeners also watch the weather. But the keenest observers learn to watch something else entirely: the birds.

Birds are among the finest insect scouts in nature. Long before you notice aphids curling your rose leaves or caterpillars skeletonizing your cabbage, birds often know exactly where the feast has begun. Their feeding patterns can serve as an early warning system, helping organic gardeners discover pest problems before they become serious.

If you learn to read bird behavior, your garden will begin telling its story in an entirely new way.

Birds Go Where the Food Is

Most songbirds eat insects for at least part of the year, even species that consume seeds during the winter. During nesting season, insects become essential because they provide the protein needed for growing chicks.

A sudden increase in bird activity often signals an increase in insect activity.

If you notice robins repeatedly hopping through one corner of the lawn or wrens constantly visiting a certain shrub, there's a good chance they're harvesting insects from that area.

The birds are not visiting randomly. They have found something worth eating.

Chickadees and Titmice: The Caterpillar Hunters

Few birds work harder than chickadees and titmice.

Watch them carefully in spring. They'll inspect every twig, leaf, and bud, often hanging upside down while searching for tiny caterpillars, insect eggs, and larvae.

If several chickadees spend considerable time in one ornamental tree, examine it closely. You may discover:

  • Tent caterpillars
  • Fall webworms
  • Leafrollers
  • Early infestations of inchworms
  • Egg masses hidden beneath leaves

These birds frequently find problems before gardeners notice visible damage.

Swallows Tell You What's Flying

Swallows rarely feed on the ground.

Instead, they patrol the air, catching flying insects almost continuously.

A yard suddenly filled with swallows often indicates large populations of:

  • Mosquitoes
  • Gnats
  • Flying ants
  • Winged termites
  • Small moths
  • Midges

An evening aerial display may be beautiful to watch, but it also reveals what's hatching nearby.

Woodpeckers Reveal Hidden Insects

When a woodpecker spends several days working one tree, pay attention.

Woodpeckers don't simply peck at random.

They're listening for movement beneath the bark and extracting insects such as:

  • Bark beetle larvae
  • Carpenter ants
  • Borers
  • Wood-boring beetles

A tree receiving repeated visits deserves closer inspection. The birds may be discovering an insect infestation before outward symptoms become obvious.

Bluebirds Patrol the Lawn

Bluebirds prefer open ground where they can spot insects from a perch.

If a pair begins making repeated trips to one patch of lawn, they're likely feeding on:

  • Beetles
  • Grasshoppers
  • Crickets
  • Cutworms
  • Caterpillars

This doesn't necessarily mean there's a pest outbreak. It simply means insect life is abundant enough to support active feeding.

Wrens Search Every Crevice

Wrens behave like tiny inspectors.

They investigate vines, stacked firewood, stone walls, brush piles, and dense shrubs.

Their menu includes:

  • Spiders
  • Beetles
  • Earwigs
  • Small caterpillars
  • Scale insects
  • Various larvae

A wren spending unusual amounts of time on one shrub may be revealing an insect concentration that deserves investigation.

Flycatchers Reveal Hatches

Flycatchers often sit motionless before darting into the air to capture passing insects.

When they become unusually active, they're often responding to insect hatches that may be difficult for gardeners to notice.

You may discover:

  • Flying beetles
  • Small moths
  • Winged aphids
  • Emerging flies
  • Mayflies

Their behavior frequently changes within hours of a hatch beginning.

Crows Can Reveal Grub Problems

Crows occasionally dig through turf searching for white grubs, beetle larvae, or other soil-dwelling insects.

If several crows repeatedly tear at one area of lawn, investigate before repairing the damage.

While crows sometimes create a mess, they may also reveal an underlying insect problem beneath the surface.

Birds Follow the Seasons

Bird behavior changes throughout the year.

In spring, parents search constantly for protein-rich insects to feed nestlings.

By midsummer, fledglings join the hunt, increasing feeding activity dramatically.

During autumn, many birds shift gradually toward berries and seeds, though insect hunting continues whenever insects remain available.

Understanding these seasonal shifts helps you interpret what you're seeing.

Birds Are Better Than Sticky Traps

Gardeners often purchase traps to monitor insect populations.

Birds perform much the same function naturally.

Unlike traps, birds:

  • Cover large areas
  • Hunt continuously
  • Respond immediately to changing insect populations
  • Locate hidden insects beneath leaves and bark
  • Detect outbreaks before visible damage appears

They provide information every day without batteries, chemicals, or maintenance.

Encourage Nature's Scouts

If you want birds to serve as partners in pest detection, make your garden welcoming.

Provide:

  • Native shrubs for cover
  • Trees for nesting
  • Fresh water year-round
  • Dense vegetation for shelter
  • Seed-producing flowers
  • Minimal pesticide use

The healthier the bird population, the more eyes—and beaks—you have searching your garden every day.

Learn to Watch Before You Spray

Organic gardening begins with observation.

Before reaching for any control method, spend a few minutes simply watching.

Which birds are visiting?

Where are they feeding?

What are they catching?

What plants receive the most attention?

The answers often point directly toward developing insect populations.

Plants tell you what has already happened.

Birds often tell you what is happening right now.

A gardener who learns to read birds gains a quiet advantage. Instead of reacting after leaves have been chewed or flowers have been damaged, you'll begin noticing the earliest signs of change. The birds have already done the scouting. All that's left is to pay attention.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Thursday, July 9, 2026

Create a Backyard Wildlife Oasis

Creating a backyard wildlife oasis is one of the most rewarding things a gardener can do. Beyond adding beauty to the landscape, it invites birdsong at dawn, butterflies dancing through flower beds, and the quiet rustle of frogs and beneficial insects that remind us a garden is meant to be alive. 

Backyard wildlife habitat - AI generated

There was a time when nearly every farm, woodland edge, and country garden teemed with life. Songbirds nested in old fence rows, butterflies drifted through meadows, and frogs serenaded warm summer evenings. Even small suburban gardens held enough flowers, shrubs, and trees to provide food and shelter for countless creatures.

Today's landscapes often offer little more than expanses of lawn and tightly clipped shrubs. Fortunately, it doesn't take a large property to reverse that trend. Whether you garden on several acres or tend a modest backyard, you can create a haven where wildlife flourishes while making your own outdoor space richer and more enjoyable.

Begin with Native Plants

The foundation of any wildlife-friendly garden is a generous planting of native trees, shrubs, perennials, and grasses. Native plants have evolved alongside local birds, butterflies, bees, and other beneficial creatures, providing exactly the nectar, pollen, berries, seeds, and foliage they need.

Plant in generous groups rather than isolated specimens. A broad sweep of native coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, bee balm, blazing star, or goldenrod creates a far stronger invitation to pollinators than a single plant tucked into a flower bed.

Don't overlook native shrubs such as beautyberry, wax myrtle, arrowwood viburnum, or elderberry. Their flowers feed pollinators in spring, while their berries become a welcome feast for migrating birds later in the year.

Provide Food Through Every Season

A true wildlife oasis never has an "off season."

Early-flowering trees and shrubs supply nectar for emerging bees. Summer perennials sustain butterflies, hummingbirds, and countless beneficial insects. Autumn seed heads and berries nourish migrating birds. Even during winter, dried flower stalks and ornamental grasses offer both food and shelter.

Resist the temptation to deadhead every faded blossom. Coneflowers, sunflowers, asters, and native grasses become natural bird feeders once the growing season ends.

Add Fresh Water

Water is often the missing ingredient in many gardens.

A simple birdbath refreshed daily can become the busiest destination in the yard. A shallow basin with gently sloping sides also allows butterflies and bees to drink safely. Adding a few smooth stones gives insects a place to land.

If space allows, a small pond or recirculating fountain dramatically increases wildlife activity. Moving water attracts birds from surprising distances, while ponds may soon host dragonflies, frogs, and beneficial aquatic insects.

Think Beyond Flowers

Wildlife needs more than nectar.

Dense shrubs provide nesting sites and protection from predators. Evergreen trees offer winter shelter during cold weather. Hollow stems left standing through winter become homes for native bees.

Leave a quiet corner of the garden a little untidy. A brush pile tucked behind shrubs, a stack of old logs, or a patch of leaf litter creates valuable habitat for salamanders, toads, fireflies, and many beneficial insects.

Nature rarely thrives in perfectly manicured landscapes.

Reduce Chemicals

One of the quickest ways to encourage wildlife is simply to spray less.

Many insects we consider pests are an important food source for birds raising young. Broad-spectrum insecticides often eliminate beneficial insects alongside harmful ones.

Instead, rely on integrated pest management. Encourage lady beetles, lacewings, praying mantises, birds, and parasitic wasps to do much of the work for you. Hand-pick troublesome pests when practical, and reserve targeted organic treatments for genuine infestations rather than routine spraying.

A balanced garden is remarkably self-regulating.

Welcome Pollinators

Butterflies, bees, moths, hummingbirds, and other pollinators are among the most delightful garden visitors.

Choose flowers with staggered bloom times so nectar remains available from early spring until frost. Include a variety of flower shapes and colors to accommodate different pollinators.

Avoid double flowers whenever possible, as heavily bred blooms often produce little nectar or pollen compared to their single-flowered relatives.

Create Layers of Habitat

Natural forests succeed because they contain many layers.

Try to imitate this structure by including:

  • Tall canopy trees
  • Smaller ornamental trees
  • Flowering shrubs
  • Herbaceous perennials
  • Groundcovers
  • Native grasses
  • Vines climbing trellises or fences

Each layer supports different species, greatly increasing the diversity of wildlife your garden can sustain.

Leave Room for Nature

Not every corner of the landscape needs to be controlled.

Allow a small section of lawn to grow longer. Let violets, clover, and self-sown native flowers bloom where practical. Permit leaves to remain beneath shrubs until spring rather than removing every last one each autumn.

Many butterflies and beneficial insects spend the winter hidden among fallen leaves and hollow stems.

Sometimes the best thing a gardener can do is simply leave well enough alone.

Enjoy the Visitors

Once your wildlife garden matures, you'll begin noticing new visitors almost every week.

Goldfinches balancing on coneflower seed heads. Hummingbirds darting among salvias. Swallowtail butterflies gliding over zinnias. Tree frogs singing after summer rains. Dragonflies patrolling the garden paths.

These small moments become some of the greatest rewards of gardening.

A wildlife oasis is never truly finished. Each season brings new discoveries and fresh opportunities to improve the habitat you've created. By planting thoughtfully, gardening gently, and allowing nature a place in your landscape, you'll cultivate far more than flowers.

You'll create a living garden—one filled with movement, music, color, and life—and discover that the wildest gardens are often the most beautiful of all.

Return to GoGardenNow.com. Where Great Gardens Begin. 

Monday, February 16, 2026

Native Wildflower Seeds — Let the Land Remember Itself

 Wildflower meadow

There is a curious modern habit: we import plants from the ends of the earth, pamper them like porcelain, then wonder why they faint in July. Meanwhile, the plants that actually belong here — the ones that watched bison, burned with lightning fires, and survived Southern summers long before sprinklers were invented — are dismissed as “weeds.”

A native wildflower meadow is not landscaping in the suburban sense.
It is restoration. It is also, quite frankly, easier.

You are not forcing nature to behave. You are giving it permission.


Why Plant Native Wildflowers?

1. They thrive where you live

Native plants evolved in your exact rainfall pattern, soil chemistry, and heat. Humidity does not alarm them. Clay soil does not offend them. A dry August is not a crisis — it is Tuesday.

They grow deeper roots than turfgrass — often 6 to 15 feet deep. That means:

  • far less watering

  • almost no fertilizing

  • better drought survival

  • improved soil structure

Your lawn survives by irrigation.
A native meadow survives by memory.


2. They feed what the modern landscape starves

Butterflies, native bees, moths, and songbirds cannot live on ornamental imports. Many insects are host-specific. Monarch caterpillars, for example, can eat only milkweed. No milkweed — no monarchs. It’s that blunt.

A wildflower patch quickly becomes:

You will see goldfinches, swallowtails, skippers, bumblebees, and predatory wasps that quietly eliminate garden pests better than any chemical ever bottled.


3. They are beautiful in the old sense

Not the rigid beauty of trimmed hedges and clipped spheres.

Native meadows are seasonal beauty — waves of bloom:

A lawn is a green carpet.
A meadow is a calendar.


When to Sow Native Wildflower Seeds

Best Time: Fall (October–December in the Southeast and Deep South)

Here is the secret many seed packets never explain:

Most native wildflowers require winter.

They need cold and moisture — a natural process called stratification. If you sow in fall, nature performs the germination preparation for you. Spring planting works, but germination is often slower and patchier.

Think of fall sowing not as planting — but as setting the clock.


Site Selection

Choose a place with:

  • full sun (6–8+ hours daily)

  • open soil

  • minimal tree roots

Avoid rich garden beds. Wildflowers prefer lean soil. Fertile soil grows grass — and grass is their primary enemy.


Soil Preparation (This Is the Most Important Step)

Wildflowers fail not because of bad seed, but because of competition.

You are not planting flowers.
You are removing lawn dominance.

Do this:

  1. Kill existing grass and weeds

    • Smother with cardboard for 4–6 weeks

    • or solarize with clear plastic

    • or carefully strip sod

  2. Loosen the top 1–2 inches of soil

  3. Do not till deeply (you will wake a thousand weed seeds)

You want bare earth — not fluffy garden soil.


How to Sow Native Wildflower Seeds

Wildflower seed is tiny — almost dustlike — and people bury it too deep. That is the chief mistake.

Steps:

  1. Mix seed with sand (1 part seed to 10 parts sand)

  2. Broadcast evenly by hand

  3. Walk the area twice in different directions

  4. Press seed into soil (step on it or roll it)

  5. Do NOT cover with soil

Seeds need sunlight to germinate.
If you can’t see them, you planted them correctly.


Watering

After sowing:

  • Keep soil lightly moist for 2–3 weeks if rain is absent

After establishment:

  • watering becomes largely unnecessary

By the second year, native meadows typically require no irrigation except in extreme drought.

Deep roots change everything.


Fertilizing (Almost Never)

This surprises people:

Do not fertilize native wildflowers.

Fertilizer feeds grass and weeds far more than prairie flowers.
Rich soil creates tall floppy growth and fewer blooms.

Native plants are adapted to poor soil. Leave them hungry — they will reward you with flowers.


Mowing — Yes, Mowing

A meadow is not abandonment. It is management.

First Year

Mow to 6–8 inches whenever growth reaches 12–15 inches.
This suppresses weeds while young wildflowers establish roots.

After Establishment (Year Two and Beyond)

Mow once annually:
Late winter (February–early March)

This:

  • removes dead stems

  • prevents woody invasion

  • exposes soil to sun

  • triggers germination

You are mimicking the natural prairie fire — with less drama and fewer insurance claims.


What to Expect (Important)

Year one: mostly leaves
Year two: flowers
Year three: abundance

Native meadows are not instant. They are permanent.


The Hidden Benefit: Soil Repair

Native plant roots:

  • break hard clay

  • add organic matter

  • absorb runoff

  • reduce erosion

A lawn sheds rainwater.
A meadow drinks it.

You are not just growing flowers — you are rebuilding land.


Common Mistakes

• Planting into existing lawn
• Over-watering
• Adding fertilizer
• Burying seed
• Giving up after the first year

Patience is part of the method.


Where to Use Native Wildflowers

  • sunny front yard alternatives to turf

  • orchard understory

  • roadside edges

  • around ponds

  • pollinator gardens

  • difficult slopes

  • large open acreage

They also pair beautifully with fruit trees and vegetable gardens by increasing pollination and reducing pest outbreaks.


Final Thought

The American landscape once ran on flowers — miles of them. Early travelers described spring fields so bright they looked painted. What we now call “natural areas” were once ordinary.

A native meadow does something a normal garden never quite manages:

It does not merely decorate your property.
It restores it.


Call to Action

Ready to trade mowing for blooming?

Plant once. Watch for years.

Choose a regionally appropriate Native Wildflower Seed mix and let your land work with you instead of against you. Visit GoGardenNow.com and start a patch this season — even a small one. A corner becomes a bed, a bed becomes a meadow, and before long you will notice something unmistakable:

The birds find it first.

Tuesday, August 27, 2024

GoGardenWalks Phinizy Swamp Nature Park, Augusta, Georgia

 
 
 History, like a swamp, can be dark and murky, and just as fascinating. Phinizy Swamp covers thousands of acres of wetlands. It's home to otters, beavers, alligators, herons, ospreys, eagles, and many more. Archaeologists believe that humans inhabited this mire for at least 10 thousand years, maybe more. Follow us as we explore Phinizy Swamp Nature Park, it's history and it's present.
 
Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Friday, March 5, 2021

Social Distancing Is For The Birds, Too.

 

Sick pigeon

As much as we loathe social distancing, it can be a good thing. Disease transmission is diminished when we insist on a bit more personal space. This is true even for the common cold. The principle holds for people and for the birds.

Birds can carry diseases, too. According to Medical News Today, “birds and their droppings can carry over 60 diseases.” While bird diseases certainly pass from bird to bird, some can even be transmitted to humans. And it’s not just avian flu that we can worry about. Others include:

  • “Histoplasmosis is a respiratory disease that may be fatal. It results from a fungus growing in dried bird droppings.
  • Candidiasis is a yeast or fungus infection spread by pigeons. The disease affects the skin, the mouth, the respiratory system, the intestines and the urogenital tract, especially the vagina. It is a growing problem for women, causing itching, pain and discharge.
  • Cryptococcosis is caused by yeast found in the intestinal tract of pigeons and starlings. The illness often begins as a pulmonary disease and may later affect the central nervous system. Since attics, cupolas, ledges, schools, offices, warehouses, mills, barns, park buildings, signs, etc. are typical roosting and nesting sites, the fungus is apt to found in these areas.
  • St. Louis Encephalitis, an inflammation of the nervous system, usually causes drowsiness, headache and fever. It may even result in paralysis, coma or death. St. Louis encephalitis occurs in all age groups, but is especially fatal to persons over age 60. The disease is spread by mosquitoes which have fed on infected house sparrow, pigeons and house finches carrying the Group B virus responsible for St. Louis encephalitis.
  • Salmonellosis often occurs as "food poisoning" and can be traced to pigeons, starlings and sparrows. The disease bacteria are found in bird droppings; dust from droppings can be sucked through ventilators and air conditioners, contaminating food and cooking surfaces in restaurants, homes and food processing plants.
  • E.coli. Cattle carry E. coli 0157:H7. When birds peck on cow manure, the E. coli go right through the birds and the bird droppings can land on or in a food or water supply.

"Besides being direct carriers of disease, nuisance birds are frequently associated with over 50 kinds of ectoparasites, which can work their way throughout structures to infest and bite humans. About two-thirds of these pests may be detrimental to the general health and well-being of humans and domestic animals. The rest are considered nuisance or incidental pests.

A few examples of ectoparasites include:

  • “Bed bugs (Cimex lectularius) may consume up to five times their own weight in blood drawn from hosts which include humans and some domestic animals. In any extreme condition, victims may become weak and anemic. Pigeons, starlings and house sparrows are known to carry bed bugs.
  • Chicken mites (Dermanyssus gallinae) are known carriers of encephalitis and may also cause fowl mite dermatitis and acariasis. While they subsist on blood drawn from a variety of birds, they may also attack humans. They have been found on pigeons, starlings and house sparrows.
  • Yellow mealworms (Tenebrio molitor), perhaps the most common beetle parasites of people in the United States, live in pigeon nests. It is found in grain or grain products, often winding up in breakfast cereals, and may cause intestinal canthariasis and hymenolespiasis.
  • West Nile Virus while West Nile is technically not transmitted to humans from birds, humans can get infected by the bite of a mosquito who has bitten an infected bird. The obvious lesson is that the fewer birds there are in any given area, the better. This translates into a smaller chance of an infected bird in that area, a smaller chance of a mosquito biting an infected bird and then biting a human.”

So, what can we do about it?

Medicines are out of the question. How can we treat wild birds? The populations are too great, and indiscriminate broadcasting can do more harm than good.

Sensible steps can be taken to slow disease transmission. Here are a few examples:

  • Keep an eye out for birds that seem lethargic, have fluffed feathers, or won’t fly away when approached. They might be ill. Report them to your regional Department of Natural Resources or local animal control office. Tufts Wildlife Clinic has more to say about this.
  • Don't handle sick birds.
  • Provide several feeders located in different areas so fewer birds will congregate together. 
  • Clean and disinfect bird feeders and bird baths regularly with a 5% solution of bleach.
  • Use separate brushes, scrubbers and other tools for cleaning them. Don’t use them for other purposes, and don’t bring them into the house.
  • Provide fresh food, throwing away any that seems rancid or moldy.
  • Feed only as much as the birds will consume in a couple of days.
  • Move your bird feeders occasionally so that droppings, seed hulls and discarded food doesn’t accumulate beneath them. Rake and disperse the debris.
  • Change water in bird baths every couple of days.
  • Wear a mask when cleaning bird feeders, baths, and cleaning under them. I know you’re tired of being told to wear a mask, but you don’t want to breath airborne disease spores, if any are present.

Hopefully, a bit of care will help to mitigate the spread of disease among us and our feathered friends.

Return to GoGardenNow.com

Thursday, March 4, 2021

Homes For The Buzzin' Bees

"There ain't no words for the beauty, the splendor, the wonder."


Photo by Dominicus Johannes Bergsma/Wikimedia Commons.
Photo by Dominicus Johannes Bergsma/Wikimedia Commons.

Gardening is not just about growing pretty flowers and delicious foods. It’s also about enjoying nature, and some of the most fun to watch are the little flying creatures that hover and dart about. There are, of course, the butterflies, honeybees and bumblebees. But most interesting – to me, anyway – are the tiny little bees. Some are brown. Some black. Some iridescent. These are the native bees, sometimes called sweat bees, cutter bees, or mason bees. They are essential to good pollination. It feels good to provide a place where they like to hang around.

It’s well-known that flowers provide bees with food. That’s they real reason they’re there. Their acts of pollination are actually happy accidents that they perform while brushing against pollen in their quests. 

But apart from planting native wildflowers, we can also attract them by providing homes. Many of us think of bee hives when we think of homes for bees...or hair.

I let it fly in the breeze

And get caught in the trees

Give a home for the fleas in my hair

A home for fleas

A hive for the buzzin' bees

A nest for birds

There ain't no words

For the beauty, the splendor, the wonder

Of my...

Hair, hair, hair, hair…

-The Cowsills

You know where I'm coming from. But that’s not it. Those little bees nest in surprising little hideaways like tunnels excavated by beetles, crevices, broken branches, holes in the ground, rotten logs, abandoned lumber, old reeds and hollowed-out stems. Some of which we can provide with ease. 

Osmia cornifrons at nest's entrance.
Photo by Beatriz Moisset/Wikipedia Commons

Here are some simple ideas:

  • Find old logs, and drill deep, horizontal holes of various diameters – between 1/16 inch and 1/2 inch – in the ends.
  • You can do the same with dead trees, but don’t drill into living ones.
  • Gather hollow reeds about 6” to 8” long. Miscanthus spp., Arundo donax and pampas grasses are good examples. Bundle them together, and tie with twine. Place them horizontally around the garden in clay pots, or hang them under the eaves of your tool shed to keep them dry. 
  • If you’re ambitious, construct little structures resembling bird houses with the fronts removed, and stuff them with the reeds.
  • You can do the same with lengths of old Rubus canes, Sambucus stems or Chinaberry (Melia azedarach) sticks.
  • Bamboo canes will serve well, and are longer lasting, but the segments might need to be reamed out with a drill to make the nesting spaces deep enough.
  • If you intend to use old lumber, avoid pressure-treated woods which could be toxic to bees.

These are things that you can do with your kids, teaching them something about nature and to be kind to creatures.

To be sure, there are purists out there who would say, “Oh NO! That’s not the way to do it! What a terrible idea.” But, frankly, I’ve never known bees to follow all the rules. Some drill holes in my house, stored lumber, and even try to nest in my electrical outlets. I say, “Don’t stress out about it.” Have fun. Do good.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Saturday, July 18, 2020

About The Cardinals


Northern Cardinal - Photo by Tina Nord from Pexels
Northern Cardinal


And how to attract them


When the word Cardinal is mentioned, four things come to mind – the bird, the baseball team, a church official and something of major significance. All of these converge in the bird.

The bird – crested and often clothed in bright red – is ubiquitous. Depending on the species, its range spans most of the United States, into Mexico and South America.

There are three perky species in the genus, two of which are common in North America.

Northern Cardinal - Cardinalis cardinalis


The Northern Cardinal male is crested, brilliant red with a black mask. The female is olive with a reddish cast. It’s so common, widespread and stunning that this species has been designated the official state bird of Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, North Carolina, Ohio, Virginia, and West Virginia. It is not the state bird of Missouri.

Though the bird is figured in the logo of the St. Louis Cardinals baseball team, the team was not named for the bird, but for a color in their uniforms. That color – cardinal – is the shade of the cassocks of certain high-ranking officials in the Catholic Church. Important, indeed!

The Northern Cardinal ranges from Maine and Canada, throughout the eastern U.S., westward into Texas, into Mexico and as far south as Guatemala.

It feeds on fruits, seeds – particularly black oil sunflower – and insects, which its thick, sharp beak can dispatch in short order. These are easy enough to find.

The Northern Cardinal sometimes displays the curious behavior of pecking at glass and other shiny surfaces. This is because it’s very territorial, especially in spring. That reflected image of itself is taken to be a threat.


Pyrrhuloxia - Cardinalis sinuatus


The Pyrrhuloxia or Desert Cardinal is mostly found in the arid southwest and Mexico. It is also crested and resembles the Northern Cardinal, though the male is colored gray with a red mask, breast and crest. The female is gray sans mask.

Its diet also consists of insects, fruits – particularly cactus – and seeds.


Vermilion Cardinal - Cardinalis phoeniceus


By Félix Uribe, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=81342201

This one is quite similar to the Northern Cardinal with vibrant coloration and a more distinctive crest. It’s native only to the South American countries of Colombia and Venezuela. Since you won’t likely see it in your yard, you don’t need to worry about feeding it.


If you build it, they will come – certainly!


As noted before, cardinals are common in the United States. But they love to hide and nest in dense shrubbery. A good cardinal habitat will include a landscape of shrubs and low trees, seed-bearing grasses, flowers - particularly of the Asteraceae family.

Northern Cardinals are crazy about sunflower seeds, but they also eat cracked corn, safflower, peanut pieces, milo and millet. I love watching them adorn the winter branches of crape myrtles, devouring the seeds.

Pyrrhuloxia are fond of sunflowers and cracked corn. Bird-watchers in the Southwest should plant flowering, fruit-producing cacti.

If you really want to view them up close, seed feeders will surely draw them in. A vast selection of tray feeders, hoppers, tube feeders and ground feeders are for your choosing. However, if you’re a cat owner, or neighborhood cats visit you, skip the ground feeders.

Cardinals stand out in the crowd. Offer them attractive habitats, hiding places, water for bathing, their favorite foods, and you’ll be rewarded with a yard full of these delightful little creatures.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Thursday, June 25, 2020

About The Orioles


Orioles on Birds Choice Oriole Feeder

And how to attract them


For a type of blackbird, orioles are exceptionally colorful. Bright yellow, orange to chestnut colors contrast beautifully against black plumage punctuated with splashes of white. 

There are nine species native to North America – Baltimore Oriole (Icterus galbula), Orchard Oriole (Icterus spurius), Bullock’s Oriole (Icterus bullockii), Hooded Oriole (Icterus cucullatus), Scott's Oriole (Icterus parisorum), Audubon's Oriole (Icterus graduacauda), Altamira Oriole (Icterus gularis), Spot-breasted Oriole (Icterus pectoralis), and Streak-backed Oriole (Icterus pustulatus). Their ranges sometimes overlap, so it’s possible to observe one or more of them in your area.

Baltimore Oriole


The Baltimore Oriole is the most famous by far, if not for its abundance then certainly because of the Major League Baseball team that bears the name. But the bird was here first. They’re so named because their colors are similar to the heraldic crest of the Calvert family and Lord Baltimore, after whom Baltimore, Maryland is named. 

Its head is black, breast is orange, and white patches adorn the wings. As with many bird species, the difference between male and female colors is usually quite different – the males normally sporting brighter colors.

They range from eastern British Columbia to Nova Scotia, southward through Texas to Central America, Florida and Cuba. Their breeding range is from Canada to Louisiana, Alabama and Georgia. They overwinter in the warmest climates south of the U.S. border. In the United States, we’ll hear them early in spring high in the trees where they’re searching for insects and nesting materials. Their nests dangle from tree branches.

Orchard Oriole


The Orchard Oriole is slightly smaller than the Baltimore Oriole, and its range is a bit smaller, too. Nevertheless, it can be found in spring from southernmost Manitoba and Ontario, southward through Texas to Mexico, and eastward from Maryland to North Florida. 

Its head is black, and breast color is a darker chestnut. It lacks the large white wing patches of the Baltimore Oriole. 

It’s mostly found in shrubs and orchards, particularly near water sources. They hang around for a briefer period during breeding season – arriving in late spring and leaving by mid-summer. 

Bullock's Oriole


Bullock’s Oriole sojourns in the west. It ranges from southernmost Alberta and Saskatchewan to California, through Texas and into Mexico. They can be found in open woodlands, and shrubs and trees near water sources, which are especially needed in the arid southwest.

The crown of the head is black and bright orange with a black stripe across the eye. The breast is also orange. White patches and streaks adorn the wings.

Hooded Oriole


The Hooded Oriole ranges further west, from California to Nevada, southward through Texas and Mexico. They can also be found in open woodlands and yards, especially among palms from which they find nesting fibers. They actually hang their nests among the fronds to avoid detection.
Their wings, backs and tails are black, as are the lower half of their faces. Their breasts and heads range in color from bright yellow to bright orange. White streaks on their wings.

Scott's Oriole


Scott’s Oriole travels from southernmost Idaho and easternmost Nevada through Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, Texas and into Mexico. It frequents deserts and mountain slopes, flitting and flirting among yuccas, pines, palms and junipers.

Scott’s Orioles have black heads, backs and wings streaked with white. Breasts and bellies are lemon-yellow.

Audubon's Oriole


Audubon’s Oriole is very much like the Scott’s Oriole, but does not have the black back. It’s doubtful that you’ll spy them very often. They live in southernmost Texas and in limited regions of Mexico. They’re rather shy creatures, searching among brush and woodlands for insects. If you see one, consider yourself lucky.

Altamira Oriole


The Altamira Oriole is another you’ll rarely see unless you live in the Texas Rio Grande region. Their heads are bright orange. They sport black masks and a black streak down the center of the breast. Backs, wings and tails are black with white streaks. 

Look for them in parks, open woodlands, and high branches in trees near water. As with other orioles, their nest can be seen dangling from heights.

Spot-breasted Oriole


Spot-breasted Orioles inhabit a very limited range in the United States in eastern Florida from Cape Canaveral to Miami, only because they were introduced there sometime after World War II. Otherwise, they’re native to the lower western coast of Mexico and into Central America.

They’ve become somewhat common in Florida. They look very much like the Altamira Oriole, but have black spots on the breast spreading toward the wings.

Streak-backed Oriole


Streak-backed Orioles visit the southwestern United States, but are mostly found in western Mexico and southward into Central America. It’s flame orange on its head, belly, breast and back. A black streak marks its breast and black streaks run down its back. Its tail is black. White streaks adorn its wings.

You may find them in arid grasslands, open woodlands and shrubs. They are very much attracted to various mimosa plants, which are rich in nectar, so homeowners in those areas would plant them to attract these avian gems.

Which brings us to the next subject.

How to attract orioles.


Photo credit: Lori Meehleder

If you build it, they will come...maybe.


It just so happens that most orioles are suckers for sweet fruits and nectar. Yes, they eat insects, but they  adore sugar.

Dark and brightly colored fruits, in particular, attract their attentions. Oranges, blackberries, raspberries, blue and purple grapes, plums, blackberries, raspberries, red cherries and crab apples will keep them coming back. You can provide them in feeders, or better still, plant a few shrubs and trees in your yard!

Split oranges in half and secure them on nails or dowels. Chop up pieces of apple to present in bowls or shallow cups. Do the same with grapes and berries. Would you like to provide an opulent feast? Put a few dollops of grape jelly in the bowls. 

Nectar rich flowers such as Trumpet Vine will entice them. Not only is the nectar sweet, but the color is just right, too – bright orange and red.

Those orioles that are native to the Southwest and South will also feed on yucca flowers. Yucca plants are very drought-tolerant, too. They’re perfect for xeriscaping, whether of necessity or simply to save on your water bill.

Since they’ll drop in to feed, why not provide the orioles with nesting materials. Oriole nests are complex things, sort of like dangling purses to hold their young. Fibrous plants will do the trick. Palms and yucca plants are very fibrous. Southerners should be able to grow them with ease. In colder regions, orioles will make good use of long grass blades, hair, threads and string, even plastic strips. Though it’s best not to leave plastic blowing around, it’s good to know that errant pieces can be used for good.

Orioles are certainly some of the most colorful bird species of North America, and they’re more interesting to birders because they don’t hang around very long in their breeding areas. So, be prepared for their coming in the spring. Purchase your oriole feeders, buy grape jelly (!), plant your fibers and save string for the next season so you can enjoy these exotic-looking creatures while they last.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Wednesday, May 20, 2020

Have you considered growing a pollinator garden?


Photo by Ersin Aslan from Pexels


Have you ever considered making a place in your landscape specifically for native pollinators? Doing so can help preserve those that are struggling to exist. You might not think of pollinators such as bees,  wasps and butterflies as being under threat, but many are. We usually blame overuse of insecticides as being the culprit, but there are others. Diseases, parasites and predators take their toll. By providing a pollinator-friendly habitat, you help them thrive, as well as enjoy their presence. You also gain a sense of pride in doing good for the environment.

You don't need much space to establish a pollinator garden. A few plants on your deck or patio can attract them. If you have a large area available, by all means, use it.

Pollinators have three basic needs, common even to you and me - food, water, and shelter for places to hide and begin their little families.

Food Sources - Host Plants

We picture bees and butterflies feeding on nectar from flowers, but juvenile pollinators don't do that. Young ones feed on stems and foliage, and not always of the same plants. Proper food supplies should include both.

To determine exactly which you'll need to plant may require a bit of study on your part. Good plants for pollinators include aromatic herbs, annuals, perennials, and even some weeds. GoGardenNow.com features plant collections for butterflies and other pollinators. Plant a wide variety. Select species that will provide blooms throughout the growing season. Research the species of pollinators commonly found in your area, then provide the foods they enjoy.

Remember that native pollinators often prefer native plants, so be sure to include some in or around your garden. It's not a good idea to gather plants from the wild. Some may be endangered and protected. Sow seed where possible. For mature plants, search for those nurseries that specialize in native species. There are a growing number of them. Native Plant societies can help you find sources.

Water

Pollinators need water. You'll often find bees gathered along the edges of bird baths. Butterflies will cluster around mud puddles, birdbaths, and even dung. Be sure to provide water sources for them. Still, shallow water is best. You needn't provide the dung.

Shelter, Nesting Sites and Materials

You'd be surprised at how resourceful little creatures can be when it comes to establishing homes.


That aside, pollinators will burrow in plant stems, hide in flower pots, small brush piles, and even nest in bundled drinking straws. Dryer lint, cotton balls, and the mud from puddles will be used for building materials.

After providing for your pollinators' needs, please be careful not to lure them to destruction. By that I mean, avoid using pesticides and herbicides in or around your pollinator garden. Both organic and synthetic pesticides can be harmful. Herbicides can kill the very plants you provided for pollinators' benefit.

Pollinator gardens fascinate young and old, but especially the young. Remember how enthralled you were as a child while watching butterflies and bees? Pass the feeling along to your own children, grandchildren, or even to kids in the neighborhood. You and they will be delighted that you did.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.




Wednesday, August 28, 2019

Zombie Deer Disease Apocalypse?


Deer with CWD.




Zombie Deer Disease Is Alarming

This article was passed along to me. It is disturbing. An infection called Chronic Wasting Disease is on the rise. It’s commonly called “zombie deer disease” because infected animals become very thin, disoriented, and have a vacant look in their eyes. “Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) has been reported in at least 26 states in the continental United States and in four provinces in Canada”, the article reports.
“CWD is a transmissible spongiform encephalopathy disease found in deer, elk, moose, reindeer, and caribou. It is a progressive disease that is always fatal.” It is similar to bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE, also known as “mad cow disease”).
“The disease is believed to be caused by abnormal proteins called prions, which are thought to cause damage to other normal prion proteins that can be found in tissues throughout the body. They are most often found in the brain and spinal cord, leading to brain damage and development of prion diseases. Infected brain cells eventually burst, leaving behind microscopic empty spaces in the brain matter that give it a ‘spongy’ look.”

Zombie Deer Disease Is Spreading

The disease is spread through saliva, feces and urine of infected animals. Contact with diseased tissue such as the brain, spinal cord and lymph nodes can also transmit it.
Prior to 2000, it was only documented in a few counties in Colorado, Wyoming and Nebraska. It has now spread to areas as far east as Virginia, Pennsylvania and Maryland, and as far south as Tennessee, Arkansas, Mississippi and Texas. See this map for greater detail.

What does this have to do with gardeners?

Unfortunately, deer seem to be more prevalent in yards and gardens than ever before, even in urban areas. Until now, their depredations have been limited to vegetable patches and flower beds. Greater problems may arise.
Though experts say that CWD is not transmissible to humans at this time, the same was said about BSE a few years back. Then it was discovered that BSE could infect humans. So, scientists are being cautious.

How should we respond?


  • Don’t panic. Remember that there are no documented cases of Chronic Wasting Disease having been transmitted to humans. Furthermore, cases of CWD in the Cervidae family – deer, elk, moose, reindeer, etc. – are limited, at this time. Chances are your county doesn’t show up on the map. If it does, the number of cases are probably quite few. If you live in or near a county where CWD has been documented, you should:
  • Avoid contact with deer saliva, feces and urine. While it’s unlikely that a moose will lick you, or a deer pee on you, you or your children might find deer feces in your yard. Don’t touch it. (You wouldn't really, would you?)
  • Check with your state Department of Natural Resources Game and Wildlife Division for statements on CWD.
  • Hunters should wear gloves when field-dressing harvested deer, and avoid contact with brain, nerve and spinal cord tissue.
  • Hunters harvesting deer in areas where CWD has been documented should consider having the meat tested for the disease. “As a precaution, they should avoid eating deer and elk tissues known to harbor the CWD agent (e.g., brain, spinal cord, eyes, spleen, tonsils, lymph nodes) from areas where CWD has been identified.”

For more information, read the following: