How to replace turf with asiatic jasmine.

Q: We want to cover zoysia turf with asiatic jasmine....[but] wonder if we must remove the turf, or can we plant the jasmine over very closely cropped zoysia? Also, how do we plant "bare root" jasmine? Thanks for answering all the rookie questions.

A: Yours are good questions. Thanks for asking.

I understand that you want to replace the turf with asiatic jasmine, but don't know whether to remove the zoysia or plant into it. Though I often recommend tilling, removing the turf and/or tilling the soil will expose weed seeds that have been long-dormant, resulting in a weed problem. On the other hand, the living turf will present competition for moisture and nutrients the jasmine will need. Why not crop the turf, spray it with herbicide and leave the dead grass in place? The zoysia should expire in about 10 to 14 days. This will leave a mulch cover over undisturbed soil. Unless the soil in the planting site is compacted,  the jasmine should grow well. If the soil is a little compacted, you could loosen it around each planting hole with a trowel before installing the jasmine. Incorporate a bit of fertilizer or compost in each hole before planting, taking care that synthetic fertilizer doesn't contact the new plants.

Planting bare root is easy enough, though takes a little care. Be sure that the roots are kept moist before planting. Do not allow them to dry out. Follow the instructions about loosening the soil and adding fertilizer or compost as noted above. Make sure that the roots are spread out a bit and covered with sufficient soil. Water well. Maintain soil moisture until the plants are established, allowing the soil to drain before irrigating again. Don't drown them with love. Depending on your site, considering sun, wind, etc.,  you might be watering every couple of days. Monitor the condition of the plants and soil throughout the season. Once asiatic jasmine is established, though, it is tolerant of dry conditions.

You could add some mulch on the dead zoysia between the jasmine, if you like, for extra moisture retention and weed suppression. Since you live in the South, pine straw might be readily available to you. Don't blanket the jasmine plants themselves.

I hope this helps. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to contact me.

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How to plant your new bare root perennials, vines and ground covers.

 

Bare root planting is an excellent way to establish a lot of plants at a very reasonable cost, usually priced at much less than container grown plants. Certain steps, however, are necessary to ensure success.

When your plants are delivered, they should find them bundled and wrapped in a moist medium, such as sphagnum moss or paper. Since there is no soil around the roots to provide protection, they must not be allowed to dry out. When the plants arrive, open the box as soon as possible. Set the bundles upright in the box. Protect the package from exposure to wind, sun, freezing temperatures. Keep slightly moist. Plant immediately. If that’s not possible, keep the package stored for a very few days as directed.

The day before planting, inspect the roots. If they’ve dried, plunge them in water for a few hours to re-hydrated. When planting, continue protecting the plants from the elements. A few minutes root exposure can be damaging.

Have the soil prepared and the holes "punched" in the ground before you begin. We recommend using a dibble or garden trowel with depth markings etched for guidance. Cover the roots after planting each one. Water well after planting to set the soil in contact with the roots.

Do not allow synthetic fertilizer granules to contact the plants above or below the soil line.

A thin layer of mulch may be added to aid in moisture retention and weed control.

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It’s December. Is it too late in the year to plant bare root perennials and ground cover vines?

 

Bare root daylilies

It depends on whether you’re covered up with snow or the soil is frozen. If that’s the case, then you’ve missed the boat. You’ll have to wait until the snow melts and you can get a shovel into the ground.

However, if those considerations don’t apply, then it’s not too late to plant. If a plant is known to be cold-hardy in your area, it should survive inclement weather until spring.

There is one distinct advantage of planting in fall or winter. Once planted, the roots will begin to establish in the soil. Though you likely won’t see any top growth, the roots will be busy advancing down there out of sight. When spring arrives, your perennials and vines will have a head start and will likely out-perform similar plants installed during warmer weather.

Other considerations still apply. For example, if the soil around plants such as Hedera species should dry between watering, delay planting until dryer weather to prevent root rot.

If you wish to protect your newly installed plants against possible winter damage, you could cover with a thin layer of mulch. Don't forget to remove it when spring arrives.

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FAQ: Are there any special requirements for bare root?

Asiatic Jasmine - Trachelospermum asiaticum - Bare Root

Q. Are there any special requirements for bare root? Want to purchase but need to know what I’m getting into.

A. Good question. Since there is no soil around the roots to provide protection, they must not be allowed to dry out. When the plants arrive, set the bundles upright in the box. Protect the package from exposure to wind, sun, freezing temperatures. Keep slightly moist.

When planting, do the same. A few minutes exposure can be damaging.

Have the soil prepared and the holes "punched" in the ground before you begin. Cover the roots after planting each one. Water well after planting to set the soil in contact with the roots.

Do not allow synthetic fertilizer - especially dry granules - to contact the plants above or below the soil line.

That about covers it.

I hope this helps. If you have more questions, don't hesitate to ask. If you have anything to add, we'd love to hear from you. Let us know in the comment section.

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