What is eating my koi?

Photo by FOX from Pexels

Q. We recently installed a small garden pond in the back yard and stocked it with a few small koi. Now a couple of the koi are missing. A friend suggested that raccoons have been eating them. How can I tell if he is correct, and if so how can I keep the raccoons out of the pond?

A. Since the koi are missing, you might not have a raccoon problem, but a heron problem. Raccoons won't eat the whole fish. They'll leave some scraps behind. Herons, however, will gulp down the entire koi.

To prevent herons from doing more damage, buy a heron decoy to set in or near the pond. You might find one at a garden center that carries pond supplies, or online. Real herons will avoid your pond if they think another one is already feeding there. In the mean time, temporarily cover your pond with bird netting like you would drape over berry plants. It's not very attractive, but will prevent herons from eating all the koi until you obtain the decoy. Cover your pond soon because it doesn't take long for a hungry heron to eat all the koi.

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Behind A Garden Wall: Ravine Gardens State Park, Palatka, Florida

Court Of States, Ravine Gardens, Courtesy of Boston Public Library

A trip to Florida excites me as much now as when I was a child, so I was delighted when my son suggested we head south to visit a couple of Florida's state parks. They included Ravine Gardens State Park in Palatka and Mike Roess Gold Head Branch State Park near Keystone Heights, both known for their botanical wonders.

Florida advertises its state parks as "the Real Florida." Whether more real than the rest, I won't argue. But Florida's state parks certainly possess an authenticity hard to find elsewhere in the state. For example, fresh water fountains at a constant 72 degrees F temperature actually spring naturally from the ground, not only from recirculating pumps. And beasts are not cartoon characters. So, along with nostalgic scenes, the Florida State Parks are mighty appealing.

The ravine at Palatka, shaped something like a boomerang, is theorized to have been formed over millenia by artesian springs emerging under sandy ridges near the western bank of the St. John's River.  It was an ideal spot. Aboriginal Timucuans inhabited the area for Lord only knows how long, hunting, farming and fishing for sustenance in innocent, edenic tranquility. Then the Spanish arrived. It's said they were looking for land, riches, a fountain of youth, ways to outflank the French and English, and converts to Catholicism. Anyway, by the mid-eighteenth century, the Timucuans were extinct. Disappointed Spanish retreated.

After the Timucuans and Spanish, enterprising Creeks (Seminoles) and English arrived. Entrepreneurs, idealists, hopefuls, destitutes, rascals and slaves contributed to the building of Palatka, Florida, founded in 1821. Some of the big names, like Denys Rolle's, are retained in maps and nearby landmarks with Denys Rolle's name. Actually, the ravine used to belong to Denys Rolle, Esqr. (Look for the boomerang on the map.) Palatka's colorful history is well worth reading about.

The growing town needed lots of water, so the Palatka Water Works plant was built in 1886 at the lower end of the ravine. Until 1986, the water works supplied up to a million gallons of pure water per day to the city.

The country's response to national economic hardship (The Great Depression) in the 1930s brought about the Works Progress Administration. The WPA enlisted millions of unemployed Americans to perform public projects. Ravine Gardens was one result. The 59-acre garden was planted with over 95,000 azaleas, 11,000 palms, and over 250,000 other ornamentals. It was described in the 1934 Florida Municipal Record as the "Nations Outstanding C.W.A. project." The gardens were maintained by the city until given over to the state in 1970.

Old postcards advertised Ravine Gardens as picture-perfect. Perhaps it was. Picturesque stone-walled terraces invited rest. Winding paths suggested gentle strolls. The splash of an ornamental waterwheel reminded visitors of a time not so long ago. Flowers were always in bloom.

Today's approach to Ravine Gardens State Park leads through a residential/small business neighborhood and past a school, none of which look too promising. In fact, I thought we were lost, but my son's trusty GPS app assured us we were on the correct street.

Cat's-Claws (Macfadyena unguis-cati)

The entrance to Ravine Gardens State Park is constructed of fossil-rich native stone. In fact, native stone is used in most of the original structures. Stone-columned pergolas are still draped with flowers. There are coral honeysuckles (Lonicera sempervirens), cat's-claws (Macfadyena unguis-cati) and crossvines (Bignonia capreolata) flanking the Court of the States. Front and center, a large obelisk honoring President Franklin D. Roosevelt is still there.

The park consists of a formal garden, an office/visitor center complex, a playground and fitness area, several trails around and into the ravine, a picnic pavilion, an amphitheater, several walking trails and a 1.8 mile perimeter road.

To get an overview, we began the driving tour around the perimeter of the park, but stopped along the way to inspect interesting things. As it turns out, that's the best way to see the park. Come to an overlook or trail crossing, park the car, get out and walk, return, drive to another and repeat.

Springs Trail, Ravine Gardens

From the first overlook, we meandered the circuitous Springs Trail (0.6 miles). Towering palms, hardwoods and bamboo darkened the fern-lined walk. I felt like an explorer in a jungle. Bird songs and the gurgling sound of springs were enchanting. By and by we came to a delightful glade divided by a stream. What I mistook to be naturally bubbling fountains turned out to be two recirculating water pumps strategically sited to enhance the scene.

Since it is an intentional garden planted in a natural ravine, you'll find native and introduced species growing together. Begonia, Angelica and ginger lily (Hedychium) thrive near water dragon (Saururus cernuus) and royal fern (Osmunda regalis). Sword ferns (Nephrolepis cordifolia), netted chainferns (Woodwardia areolata), cinnamon ferns (Osmunda cinnamomea)  and southern woodferns (Dryopteris ludoviciana) flourish in the damp seeps. Elephant ears (Colocasia spp.) wave above rippling streams. Citrus trees with their edible ornaments dangle over shrubby palms and shrimp plants (Justicia brandegeeana). The ravine protects many tender plants from damaging cold, though some of the banana trees looked like they had been nipped by frost.

Forest canopy, Ravine Gardens

The park drive and overlooks provide many alluring views into the ravine. From above, the towering canopy reminded me of scenes from those old Tarzan movies starring Johnny Weismuller. All seemed right in my world. (What happened to my Johnny Weismuller autograph, anyway?)

For another delightful elevated view, we descended into the ravine to cross a suspension bridge surrounded by cypresses and their knees (Taxodium spp.). It won't matter how old I grow, I'll never lose the fascination with swinging bridges. I've crossed many and I can recall nearly all of them. Strangely, the most inebriating are best remembered.

We passed up walking the Azalea Trail (0.8 miles). Azalea season was over, though some straggling flowers splashed the forest with fading "red family" hues. Unfortunately, most of the azalea shrubs seem straggly, in need of pruning and brush removal.

Garden designers included an amphitheater. Who builds amphitheaters any more? As it turns out, Mike Roess Gold Head Branch State Park, built by the WPA, also has an amphitheatre. Perhaps those are remnants of a time when entertainment was more community oriented, long before the age of solitary play with i-things.

After returning to the parking lot, we strolled through the formal garden, stumbling upon a wedding almost in progress. The bride was beautiful, as all brides are. Typically, the bridesmaids barely or over-filled their ultramarine dresses, but guests and consorts encouraged each and every one with many compliments.

Detouring around the party, we returned to a cypress-shaded reflecting pool we had driven past earlier. Several couples lazed about on the dappled lawn. Even without the waterwheel, the scene was recognizable and pleasant, but not as bucolic.

Fairies at Ravine Gardens State Park

Gardens such as these are very popular spots for photography, therefore the management posts signs warning against anything beyond snap-shooting without a permit. Probably with permission, a bridal couple was captured for posterity in one setting. A pair of sprites, on cue, paused to adore their "faire" reflections from a bridge.

I already mentioned the Palatka Water Works. Since it is close-by, it seemed worth seeing, and was. I'm ever amazed at how past architects and designers ornamented the most utilitarian structures and tools. Though not extravagant, even the Palatka Water Works brickwork and roofing have their charm. The Coffin Valve Company's monogram lends dignity to a common fire hydrant. (Incidentally, some are still in use in Palatka.) The disused tanks and sediment basins with cattails even have a sentimental quality. Home, sweet frog home. What had fallen into ruin is now a small museum and community education center. A wildflower garden suggests how nearby residents can transform their landscapes.

Wildflower Garden

A historical marker near the Garden Club Of Palatka's club house reminds visitors that William Bartram (1739-1823), naturalist and botanist, once explored this area. His route is known as the William Bartram Trail. The garden didn't exist at the time, but the ravine did. Perhaps he delved into it.

Though I grew up in a family including herbalists, horticulturists, florists and gardeners, I like to think that those childhood trips to Florida also contributed to my interest in flora. Even ubiquitous species like coontie (Zamia spp.), ferns, bromeliads and cast iron plants (Aspidistra elatior) still fascinate me. God willing, I'll take many more trips to Florida to search for interesting gardens, plants, and paradise.

Ravine Gardens, Courtesy of Boston Public Library

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Must Have Plants: Golden Variegated Japanese Sweet Flag

Golden Variegated Japanese Sweet Flag

Must-have plants are among the best plants for appropriate garden situations. When you need great garden plants for ground cover, naturalizing, wildflower gardens, perennial borders, butterfly gardens, hummingbird gardens, herb gardens, heritage gardens, cutting gardens, woodland gardens, shade gardens, bulb gardens, container gardens, bog gardens, water gardens, rain gardens or xeriscaping, look for the best among our must-have plants. 

Acorus gramineus 'Ogon', Variegated Japanese Sweet Flag, thrives in wetlands, like along ponds or pools, and can even grow when submersed. It's one of the best grassy solutions for those problem areas with poorly drained soils.

Name(s): Acorus gramineus 'Ogon', Japanese Sweet Flag, Japanese Rush, Grassy-leaved Sweet Flag, Golden Variegated Sweet Flag

Flower Color: Yellow, not showy

Bloom Time: May to June

Foliage: Herbaceous, golden, variegated.

Height/Spread: 6 inches to 12 inches x 6 inches to 18 inches.

Climate Zones: 6, 7, 8, 9

Sun Exposure: Partial shade to full shade.

Soil Condition: Moist to wet, pH 6.1 to 7.8

Features: Grassy, golden, fragrant foliage.

Uses: Bog gardens, water gardens, fragrance gardens, and as a ground cover in wet soils.

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Green Grow The Rushes, O!

Juncus effusus 'Spiralis'

For centuries, rushes have been woven into the story of humanity.

Young, pliant and pithy, rushes have symbolized youth and regeneration.

Green rushes with red shoots,
Long leaves bending to the wind -
You and I in the same boat
Plucking rushes at the Five Lakes.

We started at dawn from the Orchid Island:
We rested under elms until noon.
You and I plucking rushes
Had not plucked a handful when night came!

- Anonymous, Chinese, 4th century. Translated by Arthur Waley

Green grow the rashes, O;
Green grow the rashes, O;
The sweetest hours that e'er I spend,
Are spent amang the lasses, O.

There's nought but care on ev'ry han',
In ev'ry hour that passes, O;
What signifies the life o' man,
An' 'twere na for the lasses, O.
Green grow, etc
- Robert Burns (1759-1796), Green Grow The Rushes, O!

Not to be confused with Burns's song, there was a traditional Christmas carol of the same name that was popular in ye olde England.



The lyrics of this Green Grow The Rushes, O! are somewhat enigmatic to the modern ear, though the symbols are based on Christian themes. Strangely, it was twisted to become a popular Sesame Street counting song.



In Victorian times, "the language of flowers" meant a lot. To them, rushes symbolized docility and domesticity, i.e. peace at home. Certainly, docility should follow marriage. It has, more than less, though life has always been a struggle. But why should rushes symbolize docility? Perhaps because rushes were common material, easily found and used in Asia and Europe around the home, woven into symbols, shades, mats, cushions, beds, carpeting and roofing. Their leaves were even dipped in tallow to serve as candle substitutes. Rushes could be found everywhere. Rushes on the floor, mixed with scented herbs made the home comfortable, welcoming and memorable.

According to Erasmus, rushes were over-used for carpeting in medieval Britain, and may have contributed to scourges.

On the other hand, rushes have been used for medicinal purposes such as reducing inflammation and fever, purging toxins, treating tumors, healing urinary tract infections, dispelling kidney stones, as a laxative, relieving respiratory infections, and sedation.

Though they are evergreen, rushes in autumn and winter look worn and show their age. As Edna St. Vincent Millay and Sara Teasdale wrote, sometimes that's how worn-out life and love appear.

When reeds are dead and a straw to thatch the marshes,
And feathered pampas-grass rides into the wind
Like aged warriors westward, tragic, thinned
Of half their tribe, and over the flattened rushes,
Stripped of its secret, open, stark and bleak,
Blackens afar the half-forgotten creek,—
Then leans on me the weight of the year, and crushes
My heart.  I know that Beauty must ail and die,
And will be born again,—but ah, to see
Beauty stiffened, staring up at the sky!
Oh, Autumn!  Autumn!—What is the Spring to me?
-Edna St. Vincent Millay, The Death Of Autumn

The world is tired, the year is old,
The little leaves are glad to die,
The wind goes shivering with cold
Among the rushes dry.

Our love is dying like the grass,
And we who kissed grow coldly kind,
Half glad to see our poor love pass
Like leaves along the wind.
- Sara Teasdale, November

Christina Rossetti imagined the floor around her death bed being strewn with rushes.

The curtains were half drawn, the floor was swept
And strewn with rushes, rosemary and may
Lay thick upon the bed on which I lay,
Where through the lattice ivy-shadows crept.
He leaned above me, thinking that I slept
And could not hear him; but I heard him say:
"Poor child, poor child:" and as he turned away
Came a deep silence, and I knew he wept.
He did not touch the shroud, or raise the fold
That hid my face, or take my hand in his,
Or ruffle the smooth pillows for my head:
He did not love me living; but once dead
He pitied me; and very sweet it is
To know he still is warm though I am cold.
- Christina Rossetti, After Death

Juncus effusus

"But WAIT," you might ask, "What about the boat of bulrushes which floated baby Moses out of site?"

This is where we get into the physical details of plants. Bulrushes, you see, are not rushes at all; they are members of the sedge family, Cyperaceae. A little poem helps me to tell sedges apart from rushes. “Sedges have edges; rushes are round; grasses are hollow right up from the ground.” Rushes are of the genus Juncus (pronounced JUN-kus), and include up to 300 species. The leaves emerge from clumps, are relatively long, roundish and pithy in the center. The flowers are grass-like, held high, sometimes feathery, sometimes star-like. Plant height differs by species and variety, but ranges between 6 inches and 48 inches. Rushes are found around the world, usually in wet or moist locations. Most grow in cooler climates, rarely in the tropics.

Because of their stark appearance, many rushes are excellent as ornamental plants adding verticality and textural interest to the water or bog garden. Juncus effusus, also known as Common Rush and Soft Rush, may be the best known. Several varieties with cork-screw shaped leaves are especially notable.

Rushes are very easy to grow. All they need is a wet spot. They thrive in full sun to partial shade, and are generally hardy in USDA climate zones 4 through 10. There is no need to till the soil; you can't till mud, anyway. Soil pH should be from 5.6 to 7.5. Wet soils are generally acidic because of the rotting vegetable matter - perfect for rushes.

Rushes can be planted directly into the soil. Space them 12 inches to 24 inches apart, depending upon mature plant size. (Plant the larger ones farther apart.) They can also be grown in submerged containers. In fact, submerged containers may be the best manner for those species that tend to spread extensively.

Beside the fact that rushes are ideal for water and bog gardens, they also attract some species of hungry butterflies either in larval stage or on the wing. For creating aquatic wildlife habitat, rushes are perfect. Gardeners interested in cultivating plants pertaining to history, medicine, literature and crafts will want to grow rushes. If you are establishing or adding to a water or bog garden, planting a rain garden to conserve run-off, or just trying to figure out what to do with that mucky spot in your yard, rushes are for you.

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River Lily, Spider Lily, Swamp Lily, Poison Bulb

River Lily, Spider Lily, Swamp Lily, Poison Bulb are common names for species in the genus, Crinum (pronounced KRY-num).  There are about 180 of them found around the globe in tropical and subtropical habitats.  Yes, especially near swamps and rivers.

Crinums grow from bulbs which, like so many ornamental plants, are poisonous if ingested.  Leaves, usually strap-like, may be evergreen or deciduous, depending upon the species.  Clusters of handsome flowers, often fragrant, are produced on long, leafless stems throughout summer.  Leaves and flowers may also be toxic, so keep your lips off.  Consequently, crinums are deer resistant.

Crinum is a member of the Amaryllidaceae, which includes Amaryllis, Clivia, Hippeastrum, Leucojum and Lycoris.  The family resemblance is obvious.  In fact, you might say that Amaryllis and Crinum are "kissing cousins", having been bred to produce an intergeneric hybrid, x Amarcrinum.

Crinums may be cold hardy from USDA climate zone 7 through 11, depending upon the species.  Those who live in cooler regions can grow the smaller species successfully in containers with winter protection.

If planting in the garden, select a site in full sun to partial shade.  Obviously, crinums perform best in moist soils similar to their native habitats.  Generally they prefer a great deal of water.  Some species such as Crinum thaianum are aquatic and often used in aquariums.  Some require the soil to dry between watering to avoid rot.  But I know from personal experience that many are quite drought-tolerant.

Soil pH may be acidic to neutral.  Exact requirements differ by species.  The best way to determine if the pH is within that range and contains the proper nutrients is to have the soil tested. Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you.  You can collect the soil sample yourself.  For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis.  Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

Cultivate the soil to the depth of 12".  Add plenty of well-rotted compost.  Remove weeds.  Soil test results may recommend other soil amendments.  Bone meal is especially beneficial for bulbs.  If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the bulbs.

Planting depth and spacing vary by species and bulb size.

Crinums are stately additions to the garden, lending a bold tropical appearance to the landscape.  Sweet scented species are perfect for fragrance gardens.

Growing crinums in containers is not much different than in the garden.  Use the finest potting soil; cheap soil will give poor results.  The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth.  Select containers that will accommodate the bulbs and any other suitable companion plants.  All companion plants should have similar soil and moisture requirements.  Because container gardens can dry quickly, take steps to keep the pots properly watered.  Adding moisture retentive gel to the soil can be beneficial.  Larger containers are not as susceptible to drying.  Tipping over can also be a problem with small containers.

When bloom time is over, let the foliage remain to build reserves in the bulbs for the next growing season.  You may remove the foliage from deciduous species when it has turned yellow.  Continue to irrigate as needed.  Deciduous species will need considerably less water, if any, when foliage has fallen.

The following are a few of the most popular crinums:

Crinum 'Ellen Bosanquet' - Fuschia, trumpet-shaped flowers on 20" to 30" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 6 - 10.  pH 6.1 - 7.5.  Drought tolerant.

Crinum 'Ollene' - Fragrant, white, trumpet-shaped flowers on 18" to 24" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 6 - 10.  pH 6.1 - 7.5.  Consistently moist soil.

Crinum 'Walter Flory' - Fragrant, pink, trumpet-shaped flowers on 24" to 36" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 7b - 11.  pH 6.1 - 7.5.  Consistently moist soil.

Crinum 'Mrs. James Hendry' - Fragrant, pale pink, trumpet-shaped flowers on 36" to 48" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 7b - 11.  pH 6.1 - 7.5.  Consistently moist soil.

Crinum 'Stars and Stripes' - Red and white striped, star-shaped flowers on 18" to 24" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 7b - 10.  pH 6.1 - 7.5.  Consistently moist soil.

Crinum 'Hannibal's Dwarf' - Pink, star-shaped blooms on 12" to 18" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 7b - 10.  pH 6.1 - 7.5.  Consistently moist soil.

Crinum amabile - Pink, spider-shaped flowers on 36" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 8 - 11.  pH 6.6 - 7.5.  Very high moisture needs.  Suitable for bog and water gardens.

Crinum americanum - White, spider-shaped flowers on 24" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 7 - 10.  pH 5.6 - 7.5.  Very high moisture needs.  Suitable for bog and water gardens.

Crinum asiaticum - Fragrant, white, spider-shaped flowers on 48" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 9 - 11.  pH 6.1 - 7.8.  Consistently moist soil.

Crinum pedunculatum - Fragrant, white, spider-shaped flowers on 60" to 96" plants.  It's a whopper!  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 7b - 11.  pH 6.1 - 7.5.  Consistently moist soil.

Crinum x powellii - White or pink trumpet-shaped flowers on 24" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 8 - 11.  pH 6.1 - 7.5.  Average water needs.  Avoid over-watering.

X Amarcrinum memoria-corsii - Pink trumpet-shaped flowers on 24" to 36" plants.  Deciduous foliage.  Climate zones 7b - 10.  Average water needs.  Avoid over-watering.

This should provide you with a good over-view of Crinum.  You'll love the dramatic appearance they lend to your garden or sunroom.

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Bold, Tropical Elephant Ears

Bold, tropical, impressive and sometimes tremendous.  This describes Elephant Ears.  They belong to the Araceae family along with Acorus, Arisaema, Dieffenbachia, Philodendron, Zantedeschia and voodoo lilies - interesting relatives, indeed.  Various Elephant Ear genera include Alocasia, Caladium, Colocasia, Cyrtosperma, Remusatia and Xanthosoma.  Elephant ears capture attention.  The largest are as conspicuous as pachyderms in the landscape, some growing as tall as 12'.  The smaller ones, such as Caladium, make up for their small size with lots of color.  (Caladiums have different growing requirements which are discussed in my other blog article, Fancy Leaf Caladiums.)

One species, Colocasia esculenta, or Taro, has been used as food for centuries throughout tropical regions of the world. Stems and corms are usually eaten, though the leaf is also edible.  It's important to note, however, that the plant is toxic when raw because of the presence of calcium oxalate.  Cooking destroys the toxin.

Most of us know Elephant Ears best for their ornamental value.  They are hardy in USDA climate zones 8 to 11. Gardeners in colder climates lift and store them over winter for planting the following spring.  They're great for bog and water gardens, and even for container gardens.

Most Alocasia and Colocasia may be planted outdoors 10" deep and 18" to 36" apart when danger of frost is past. Some such as Colocasia 'Illustris' and C. 'Black Magic' do not produce large corms, so the base of the stems should only be planted at soil level.

Plant in full sun to partial shade.  Soil should be consistently moist.  Do not allow the soil to dry out.  Soil pH should range from 6.1 to 7.5.  To determine pH and fertilizer needs, take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis.  The basic test will cost a few dollars.  Follow the recommendations.  Do not allow synthetic granular fertilizer to come into contact with plant tissue.

If grown outdoors in containers, keep in mind that the large leaves may catch the wind and be blown over, so choose large, stable growing pots.  I recommend using pots that are at least 18" in diameter, and as deep.  Use a good grade potting soil that is light in texture and high in organic matter.

Water thoroughly after planting.  Top growth is usually apparent 4 to 8 weeks after planting.

In addition to having high moisture requirements, Elephant Ears are heavy feeders.  Fertilize every 3 or 4 weeks with your favorite liquid fertilizer, following label instructions.

For a bold, tropical statement in your landscape, Elephant Ears are the plants of choice.

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Lawn Marshpennywort For Wet Places

Lawn Marshpennywort is a solution plant for wet places.  As anyone who has such a site can attest, lawn grass doesn't perform well in water.  But Lawn Marshpennywort does.  It goes by the botanical name, Hydrocotyle sibthorpioides (pronounced hi-droh-KOT-il-lee sib-thorp-ee-OH-eye-dees), which means "water cup resembling Sibthorpia."  The genus, Sibthorpia, was named after John Sibthorp, an 18th century English botanist.

Native to parts of east Asia, Hydrocotyle was introduced to North America and found some areas of the continent very much to its liking.  It is now naturalized east of the Mississippi River from Indiana to New Jersey and southward to Florida.  It is also found in Arkansas, Louisiana, California and Hawaii.

Hydrocotyle is a relative of fennel and celery in the Apiaceae family.  Insignificant pale green flowers are produced mid-spring to mid-summer.  It grows very low, spreads very quickly, and forms a dense carpet.  Mature height is only 1".

I have often argued that a weed is simply a plant that is in the wrong place, or for which one is ignorant of a use.  So Hydrocotyle is sometimes considered to be a weed, and invasive at that.  But it depends upon your perspective.  It certainly makes a fine ground cover and lawn substitute in soggy areas.  Furthermore, it is said to be edible either cooked or raw, and tastes something like parsley.  It has been used in oriental medicine to purify the blood and to reduce fever.

The glossy green or variegated foliage makes an attractive mat that looks great around water features, stream banks and container gardens.  Hydrocotyle is also quite suitable for terrariums.  For collectors of herbs with medicinal interest, it's a natural.

Hydrocotyle performs best in sun or light shade in moist to wet soils with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.  It is hardy in USDA climate zones 6 through 9.

Before you plant, take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing.  The fee is nominal, but that's because you're already paying for their services with your tax dollars.  (Use it or lose it.)  The results will specify any necessary soil amendments.

It is often impossible, even unnecessary, to cultivate wet soils.  To kill existing, unwanted vegetation, you may wish to use glyphosate herbicide.  Take care, however, that the chemical does not leach into ponds, lakes and waterways.  Always wear protective clothing and follow all label instructions.  When the unwanted vegetation turns brown, plant your lawn marshpennywort directly into the site.

Space the plants 24" to 30" apart. Dig planting holes into the soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant Hydrocotyle with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly.

This is a low-maintenance plant, having no serious pests or diseases.  If you are concerned about it spreading too far, establish its limits.  For ponds, stream banks, water gardens and wet sites with poor drainage, Hydrocotyle is an excellent choice.

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Stopping Short For Moneywort

I'm not ashamed to pick up pennies wherever I find them.  As a gardener, plantsman and writer, I can use the extra income.  Anything that even looks like money gets my attention: bottle caps, small metal plugs and such.  So when I first spied Moneywort, I stopped short and said, "Oooo, oooo!  What's that?"

Its botanical name is Lysimachia nummularia (pronounced "ly-si-MAK-ee-uh noo-mew-LAH-ree-ah").  The genus is named for Lysimachus (360-281BC), the successor to Alexander The Great, king of Macedonia and Thrace, who is said to have fed the plant to his oxen to calm them.   "Nummularia" means "coin-shaped."  It also goes by other common names including "Creeping Jenny", "Herb Twopence" and "Two-penny grass".

Moneywort is native to Europe, but is used in North America as an ornamental ground cover.  So successful is it that some consider it invasive.  But, dear friends, you can't blame a ground cover for doing what ground covers do best; they cover ground.

Plant height ranges from 1" to 3".  Foliage is evergreen.  My favorite is L. nummularia 'Aurea', which sports bright chartreuse or yellow leaves.  'Aurea' is a little less aggressive than the species.  Yellow flowers are produced throughout the growing season.  Moneywort spreads by sending out runners, adding richness and color to the garden.

Moneywort thrives in full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 3 through 10 in moist soil.  Because it needs consistent moisture, partial shade is recommended in the hottest climates, though heat itself is not the issue.  Recommended soil pH ranges from 5.6 to 7.5.

This ground cover is most effective between taller perennials and shrubs, in container and bog gardens, and cascading over stone walls.  It's fine around stepping-stones, tolerating some foot traffic.

If soil is compacted, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 10" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  If the soil is high in organic matter and friable, it may not require cultivation.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil, if necessary.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant Moneywort with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Space the plants 24" to 36" apart, depending upon plant size. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.  Fertilize sparingly and irrigate when necessary.

Moneywort grows so well throughout so many climate zones, it could lend richness and color to your garden, too.  Your garden visitors will stop in their tracks, and say, "Oooo, oooo!  What is that?"

See how nicely Moneywort cascades over the rims of pots in this water garden?

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The Rainbow Of Irises

Irises are truly aristocrats in the garden.  The ornate flowers in luscious shades inspired monarchs to include them in their flags and coats-of-arms.

The genus, Iris (pronounced EYE-riss), includes at least 200 species native to just about everywhere within temperate zones in the northern hemisphere.  The name comes from a Greek mythological goddess who personified the rainbow, communicated between divinity and humanity, and raced along just out of reach.

Irises can be found growing in habitats as diverse as cool, mountainous regions and warm, subtropical swamps.  Some are drought-tolerant while others grow in water up to 10" deep.  Most irises prefer a site with full sun and well-drained, moderately fertile soil.  Many are cold hardy down to -15F.  Therefore, you should be able to find a type that will perform well for you.

As the name suggests, "iris" is synonymous with color, and they are myriad. Shades range from white to pink, blue, lilac and purple.  Some are yellow, scarlet, orange or nearly black.  Others display bold combinations of colors.  Most flower for about a month in late spring and early summer.  But, with careful selection, you can have iris blooms from very early spring to mid-fall.

They are absolutely lovely in the garden, regal in appearance.  In my opinion, irises are best displayed when planted in groups of a single color.  Different groups may be of various colors.  The resulting masses of bloom will captivate even the casual passerby.

The blooms certainly command attention, but foliage is as useful as the flowers.  The long, sword-like leaves provide a strikingly simple contrast to many of the shapes and textures found there.  The same features also make them very popular in cut flower arrangements.

The majority of irises are rhizomous plants.  Rhizomes are thick, fleshy stems that grow horizontally just below the soil surface giving rise to leaves, flowers and roots.  Other irises grow from bulbs.  Dutch irises are bulbous.

It's beyond the scope of this article to delve into all the species and hybrids.  I'll stick to some species most popular and readily available.

German irises (I. germanica), especially the hybrids, are widely grown.  Germanica (pronounced jer-MAN-ih-kuh) means "of Germany."  They produce multiple, huge flowers on forked stems held above the silver-grey foliage.  German irises are included in a group called "bearded" irises.  The "beards" are the hairs on the the "falls".  "Falls" are the three drooping sepals located under the upright petals.

Dwarf bearded irises may be as short as 6".  The taller varieties range from 36" to 48".  They prefer pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8, and require only mildly fertile soil.  Planting depth is very important:  the top portion should be right at soil level.  Space them 12" to 24" apart.  Bearded irises require full sun, and prefer dry conditions during the summer after flowering is completed.  Because they are drought tolerant, they are ideal for xeriscaping.  (Xeriscaping is the garden practice that seeks to reduce the need for irrigation.) German irises generally do well in climate zones 3-9.

Iris pallida (pronounced PAL-lid-uh, meaning "pale") is another bearded iris.  Common names include Dalmatian Iris and Sweet Iris.  It's native to the rocky coast of what was once Yugoslavia.  Flower color is pale blue.  A variety with lovely variegated foliage is quite beautiful.  Height ranges from 18" to 36".  It thrives in USDA climate zones 3-8.  Plant 12" to 24" apart in full sun and well-drained soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.  In addition to its ornamental interest, I. pallida is also cultivated for the essential oil in the rhizomes which are processed and sold as "orris root."

Beardless irises are found in many other species.

Siberian irises, Iris sibirica (pronounced sy-BEER-ih-kuh) are native to eastern Europe and northern Asia, as the name suggests.  They grow 24" to 36" tall.  The foliage is slender and grasslike.  Flower colors are purple, lavender, burgundy, yellow or white.  They prefer rich, well-drained soil in full sun, but they will tolerate more moisture than German irises.  Space them 18" to 24" apart.  They tend to grow in clumps.  Preferred pH ranges from 6.1 to 7.8.  They do well in climate zones 3-9.  Masses of single colors planted near a watercourse are dazzling sights.

Japanese irises, of the species I. ensata (pronounced en-SAH-tuh or en-SAY-tuh, meaning "sword-shaped"), are absolutely stunning.  Native not only to Japan, they are common in parts of China, Korea, India and eastern Russia.  Their large, horizontal blooms may be up to 8" across and resemble enormous butterflies.  Colors may be solid, mottled or marbled in rare combinations of exotic shades of blue, white, pink, yellow, and reddish-purple.  Height is 24" to 36".  They require evenly moist soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.  They're great for wet places like bog and water gardens, and will grow in water to 4" deep.  Japanese irises will tolerate full sun or partial shade.  They do well in climate zones 5-9.  Space them 18" to 24" apart.

Iris pseudacorus (pronounced soo-DA-ko-rus, meaning "false sweet flag") is commonly called Yellow Flag.  The species is native to Europe, western Asia and northwest Africa, but are naturalized in parts of North America.  Yes, they are of one color:  yellow.  But they'll knock your socks off in spring and early summer.  They require full sun and wet places, growing in water up to 10" deep.  These are also excellent for bog and water gardens.  Best pH ranges from 6.1 to 7.8.  If simply planted in consistently moist garden soil, they will perform, but the flowers will be smaller.  Height ranges from 18" to 36".  Yellow Flag irises are easy to grow in climate zones 5-9.  Plant in full sun to partial shade.  Space them 18" to 24" apart.

Iris versicolor (pronounced VER-suh-color, meaning "variously colored"), sometimes known as Blue Flag, Water Iris or Harlequin Iris, is another that has very high moisture requirements.  It is native to North America, thriving in USDA climate zones 5-8.  Cultural requirements are the same as for I. pseudacorus.  For those who wish to grow native species, this one is ideal.

Iris cristata (pronounced kris-TAY-tuh), also known as Crested Iris or Blue Flag, is native to the Eastern United States.  Flowers are lavender-blue with white or yellow crests.  Blooms appear in spring.  Blue Flag grows to only 4" high and spreads vigorously in all directions, so it makes a fine ground cover in a natural setting.  Plant 3" to 6" apart in partial shade in USDA climate zones 3-8.  Soil must be consistently moist soil (not soggy) with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.5.

Roof irises are relatively little-known plants that get their name from an unusual habitat:  the thatched roofs of simple Japanese country houses.  They are of the species, Iris tectorum (pronounced tek-TOR-um), which means "on roof".  Actually, they are native to China, but usually associated with Japan.  It is said that Japanese women used the ground powder of the rhizomes for cosmetics.  Perhaps limited growing space forced them to grow their face powder on their roofs.  The plants grow to 12" tall and display lavender-blue or white flowers in late spring and early summer.  Flowers are about 3" across.  Roof irises grow in USDA climate zones 5-9.  You don't have to have a thatched roof to grow them.  Plant in full sun to partial shade, spacing 8" to 12" apart.  Preferred soil pH ranges from 6.1 to 7.8.  Garden soil high in organic matter and slightly moist is fine.  Take care not to over-water.

Dutch irises are elegant plants producing large, graceful blooms.  Their botanical name is Iris x hollandica (pronounced haw-LAN-dik-uh), named for the country where they were hybridized.  They are beardless.  No cutting garden should be without them as they are superb in flower arrangements.  Colors are white, blue, purple and yellow, often in combination.  Mass beds of dutch irises are gorgeous, but they also make great companions to other bulbs and perennials in borders.  Soil should be well-drained and in a sunny location.  They are perennial in USDA climate zones 5-9.  Moist, well-drained soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8 is best.  Plant the bulbs in fall, 4" deep and 3" to 6" apart.  Take care not to over-water.

Reticulated irises are of the species Iris reticulata (pronounced ree-tick-you-LAY-tuh), which means "netted", referring to a pattern on the bulbs.  They are native to Iran, Iraq, Turkey and environs.  These are among the earliest blooming irises, making them especially welcome when you've had enough of winter.  Plant height is about 6".  Colors are blue or purple.  They thrive in USDA climate zones 3-9.  Plant them in full sun to partial shade, spacing 3" to 6" apart.  Slightly moist soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8 is fine, but avoid soggy soil.  A dry period is required after bloom time.  Growing them in raised beds is recommended.  Because they are compact in size, reticulated irises are perfect for container gardens.

Iris histrioides (pronounced hiss-tree-OY-dayz, meaning "like an actor") is similar in many respects to Iris reticulata.  The bulbs are also netted, they bloom very early and are native to the Caucasus region.  Colors are shades of blue.  Cultural requirements are nearly the same as for I. reticulata.  They thrive in USDA climate zones 3-8.

Iris danfordiae (pronounced dan-FORD-ee-ay) is yet another species similar to I. reticulata.  It is named in honor of Mrs. Charles Danford, 19th century plant explorer and wife of the noted artist and ornithologist.  Also known as Buttercup Iris, the color is yellow.  Cultural requirements are practically the same as for the other "netted" irises, but it is not as cold-hardy, thriving in USDA climate zones 5-9.

With so many species, hybrids and cultivars to choose from, you are bound to have a place to grow irises.

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Conserve Water With A Rain Garden

Water conservation has been on almost everyone's mind for many years. When I was a kid, my parents would remind me to "turn off the faucet all the way! Money doesn't grow on trees!" A more recent concern is that water may run off to where it isn't so easily accessible.

In an effort to help rain water soak into the ground instead of flowing from pavement to the sea, many municipalities require that new commercial developments construct "retention ponds." Intentions may be good, but those things are expensive, dangerous and ugly. Located on high-priced real estate and usually surrounded by chain link fences for safety/liability reasons, they look like marshy dumps filled with plastic bags, styrofoam cups, disposable diapers and whatever else is washed downhill.

How much better it would be for homeowners to take matters into their own hands and construct rain gardens. Rain gardens are nothing more than shallow depressions in the yard located near driveways or roofs to collect water runoff. Planted with moisture-loving plants, they become attractive features in the landscape that serve a good environmental purpose. They can even attract wildlife. Rain gardens are low-maintenance, too.

Here is how to go about it; you can begin any time of year. Choose a site where water would naturally shed: a bit downhill from a downspout or roof, air conditioning unit, driveway or walk. You may direct water in the right direction with drain tubing or a very shallow swale. In my opinion, rain gardens near homes should be 15 feet or more away from the foundation. Exposure to full sun is desirable, but not necessary.

Plan the size of the rain garden by drawing the contour of the area with marking paint. If you need to make changes, you can edit your work by erasing the marks with your foot when the paint has dried.

Size is not very important. Adapt it to the space available. Approximately 25 square feet is okay; 100 square feet is fine; larger is better.

When you are satisfied with the contour, remove the sod and construct a shallow depression. The sides should slope gradually. You may add a few inches of soil as a low berm around the edge of the down-hill side to prevent water from escaping.

Keep in mind that you aren't constructing a pond, so it need not be very deep; 6 inches to 8 inches deep is sufficient. You don't need to install a liner, either. The garden need not be constantly wet; the idea is for rain water to soak into the soil, not to stand indefinitely. If, however, you wish to form a bog garden, you can do that by digging the depression a bit deeper.

Choose plants that like moist soil. Native grasses, sedges, perennials and small woody shrubs are ideal. Many native plants are recognized for their ornamental value. Sometimes they even establish themselves naturally! But non-native plants are good, too. Whether to weed or not is your choice.

An added advantage of a rain garden is that it doesn't require mowing. HooRAY!!! That much less to do. Just mow around it and go on.

Maintenance is minimal. Trimming brown stalks in early spring will keep your garden tidy and allow new growth to sprout unhindered.

If you would like to see what a rain garden looks like before you begin construction, check with nearby nurseries, botanical gardens and nature centers. Since rain gardens are becoming quite popular lately, you shouldn't have far to travel. For more precise information, resources are available on the internet.

Your new rain garden will enable you to conserve water, enhance your gardening experience, beautify your home, provide habitat for wildlife, and maybe even reduce the time you spend maintaining your landscape. It's a great solution.

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Planning And Planting To Conserve Water

Whether you garden in a dry region or one with typically adequate rainfall, it is always a good idea to think about water conservation and to plan your landscape accordingly. Three steps should top your list:

1. Have your soil tested. Soil tests can reveal a lot that you may not know. Your local garden center or nearby Cooperative Extension Service can help you. By suggesting how you may improve your soil, nutrient uptake by plants may be enhanced and water conserved.

2. Locate your water source. Will you be relying on a community water supply or your own well for irrigation? There may be ways to obtain water in other ways. Rain barrels can help you harvest and store water coming off your roof. Rain gardens catch run-off and prevent its loss. It might even be possible to take advantage of water dripping from your air conditioning unit! No, I am not kidding.

3. Put "the right plant in the right place." Walk around your landscape and map areas that are wet, dry, shady and sunny. Take note of sun exposure during different times of day. Typically, high areas or spots in your landscape will be dry; low-lying areas will tend to be moist. Select plants that have requirements appropriate to those sites. By planting sun-loving, drought-tolerant plants together, and by planting moisture-loving plants in wet areas you will avoid watering unnecessarily or under-watering.

Be creative! Think of all the ways you can save water, time, money and energy.

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Behind A Garden Wall: A Southern Tradition Kept Alive

Located on a bluff above the Vernon River about 12 miles from Savannah is a site steeped in history and horticultural tradition that we were recently privileged to visit.

Nearby is Beaulieu Plantation (pronounced b-YOU-lee), once owned by William Stephens, the secretary to the Trustees of Colonial Georgia. Stephens arrived in 1737, and was an important official in the colony's early years, even serving as President of Georgia after the colony's founder, Gen. Oglethorpe, returned to England. From its founding, the Trustees of Georgia were charged with conducting horticultural experiments to provide wealth for colonists and the investors who backed them. Cotton and grapes were among the experimental crops tested on the plantation for commercial value.

Beaulieu played a role during the American War of Independence in the 1779 Siege of Savannah. It was there that French commander Count Charles Henri d'Estaing brought troops ashore as part of an unsuccessful attempt to regain control of the city from the British.

Gunboats plied the Vernon River during the War Between The States. Just two years ago, in 2007, archaeologists discovered the sunken wreck of the Water Witch upstream where Confederate sailors burned it to keep it from being re-captured by Gen. Sherman's troops.

Many homes along the river are at the ends of long drives, screened by brick walls, fences and woods from the peering eyes of passersby, and their gardens are only enjoyed by invitation. Needless to say, I was thrilled by the opportunity to visit this one.

Our hosts met us as we arrived and generously devoted time to show us about. The private tour began with a short walk to the bluff. Before us lay the broad expanse of river and marsh with Ossabaw and other Georgia Sea Islands visible on the horizon. The rich history of the site was proudly detailed to us.

Looking back across the front lawn (the front of every river estate faces the water), we were in awe of the home and gardens framed by ancient live oaks. One tree in particular is believed to be over 400 years old. Lush beds planted with Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum), Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), Camellias (C. japonica and C. sasanqua), Azalea cultivars, Cast-iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior), Butterfly Ginger (Hedychium coronarium), perennials and ferns bordered the vista.

Near the entrance of the home, a koi pond designed by one of their sons and established with waterlilies (Nymphea spp.), Pitcher Plant (Sarracenia spp.) along with other bog plants and aquatics, is ornamented by an elegant stone sculpture carved by another son. Creeping Liriope (Liriope spicata), Ardisia (A. japonica), Leopard Plant (Ligularia dentata), Cyperus (C. papyrus) and ferns are sheltered by a large specimen Coastal Leucothoe (Agarista populifolia). The walkway meanders through an arbor covered by Dutchman's Pipe (Aristolochia spp).

Our hosts love to travel, and they have an unusual collection of plants to show for it. Among them are two or three Orchid Trees (Bauhinia spp.), unusual to find growing so far north. Seeds collected during their jaunts are often started in their century-old greenhouse.

The backyard brought more delights to the eye. A discrete shade garden bordered by Shrimp Plant (Justicia brandegeana), Coralberry (Ardisia crenata), ferns, and ornamented by small reptilian sculptures delights grandchildren. Shade-loving annuals such as impatiens (I. walleriana) add joyous color to dark corners. I felt like a kid again for there were Gloriosa Lilies (Gloriosa superba Rothschildiana) like my grandmother used to grow. We had to stop for me to tickle them and wait for the leaf tips to grasp my needle of pine straw.

Sunny beds are a riot of whatever plants tickle the fancy of our hosts, including Lily-of-the-Nile (Agapanthus africanus), Scarlet Sage (Salvia coccinea), the newest selections of Blanket Flower (Gaillardia cvs.) and Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia cvs.). Lush beds of native Coontie (Zamia integrifolia) draw our attention, and I am given a fruit that looks like a rusty pineapple. Rosemary shrubs (Rosmarinus officinalis) in twisted, bonsai shapes grow in the shallowest pockets of soil atop gray brick walls surrounding the swimming pool. The scene is completed in classic style by benches and large containers featuring the deep burgundy blades of Cordyline australis.

A vegetable garden and produce from their farm up-country amply supply their kitchen, along with an abundance that they share with friends.

As our morning visit drew to an end, we were invited in fine southern fashion to glasses of iced mint tea and pleasant conversation in the kitchen. I felt that President Stephens would have been pleased to know that over 270 years later such a fine horticultural tradition and gracious hospitality would continue on this historic river bluff.
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Discover Mazus

Homeowners spend a lot of time, energy and money trying to get grass to grow in the wrong places. Wet areas can be most frustrating. Plants (some more than others) need oxygen in the soil to thrive, and grass is no exception. In fact, it needs plenty. That is why aerating the lawn is a useful practice. But sometimes too much moisture seems to accumulate, particularly in low-lying areas, so grass won't grow. So what do you do with a soggy bottom?

The best solutions often take advantage of seemingly difficult situations, working with rather than against them. Instead of trying to change the hydrology of wet areas, it may be better to incorporate them into "bog" gardens featuring water-loving plants. Mazus is such a plant.

Mazus (pronounced MAY-zus) comes from the Greek meaning "teat", referring to the swellings near the center of the flower.

Wouldn't you like to follow plant explorers around to listen to their conversations?

"What does that look like to you?"
"Well, I think it looks like...a teat."
"Hmmm. That's what I was thinking, too. We've been away from home far too long."

The genus contains around 30 species of which very few are available, and not widely. Mazus reptans ("reptans" means "creeping") is most common. The evergreen to semi-evergreen, low-growing plant is native to the Himalayan region and parts of Australia. Mature height is usually from 1-1/2" to 2". Lots of purplish-blue flowers appear in late spring to early summer. A white-flowered form is also available. Foliage is light-green and oval-shaped.

Mazus reptans is cold hardy in USDA climate zones 4 to 9, thriving in consistently moist soil in full sun to partial shade. Some protection from the sun is appreciated in very hot climates. Recommended soil pH is 6.1 to 8.5. Plants spread rapidly, rooting as they go. Small, plug-like portions can be dug and re-planted elsewhere.

Prepare the planting bed for Mazus by cultivating at least 4" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office to determine the pH and to receive any recommendations they might offer. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 8" deep. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil. Fertilizer may be used. If you choose to do so, incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Mazus can be planted any time you have a shovel handy, but it is very important to water more frequently during hot weather to avoid plant stress.

Plant Mazus 8" to 12" apart. Keep in mind that my spacing recommendations are approximate. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill. Press soil around the roots. Do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" deep. Irrigate thoroughly.

Apart from watering (if necessary) and weeding until established, maintenance is minimal. Mazus has few serious pest and disease problems. Most only cause cosmetic problems. Aphids may be attracted to fast-growing shoots. Fungus may attack during spring when temperature fluctuates widely. Cold weather may damage foliage in coldest regions. It tolerates a little foot traffic.

If you need a low-maintenance, flowering ground cover for wet sites, this may be your plant.

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Carex Sedge: A Ground Cover Solution For Moist Soil

Carex is of the Cyperaceae, or sedge, family that contains at least 3000 species and 100 genera of grass-like perennials. As such, there is some confusion and misspelling about the specific names of many plants. Regardless, the one you end up with in your garden will certainly be lovely and virtually care free. Carex is found worldwide, is native to the U.S. and is most common in temperate and cold regions.

Carex is also called Sedge Grass and Japanese Sedge. It is frequently referred to as a tufted grass, a category that includes grasses, sedges, rushes and bamboos. Sedges are distinguished from grasses by their solid, three sided flower stems (grass flowers have round, hollow stems) and they typically form dense, compact clumps. For you botanists turned poets, you can distinguish them using this poem by an unknown author: “Sedges have edges and rushes are round, grasses are hollow and rush all around.” If you don’t want to remember that, just keep in mind that any plant from the genus Carex is a true sedge.

If you see a clump of “grass” growing in shady standing water, chances are it is Carex. Hardy in Zones 5-9, this ornamental grows in wet to very moist soils but prefers evenly moist, well drained, loamy, sandy or clay soils. It may tolerate shallow standing water for awhile. If the soil dries out it will begin to suffer from drought stress. The pH preference is neutral (7.0).

Carex will grow in full sun, but prefers partial to full shade. Consider your location before planting; if you live north of Maryland, full sun might be okay, but you won’t get away with full sun in Alabama. You’ll have to experiment and see how it performs in your garden.

Carex grows 6" high or more depending on the cultivar, and has dense tufts of fine, narrow, arching leaves. The 1" leaves are all shades of green with an abundance of variegations, and considering everything I just said above, have the best color in full sun. Its dense mounds make it difficult for weeds to survive. Carex is great for borders, containers, ground cover, rock gardens and water gardens. In well-drained gardens, Carex hides yellowing foliage of spring-flowering bulbs very well.

Sedges are easy to care for because they have no serious pests or diseases. The most you’ll have to do is divide it every few years because it spreads aggressively by rhizomes (but isn’t invasive). Propagation from division is best done in the spring. You can fertilize Carex as you see fit, but keep granular fertilizers off foliage and away from stems and crowns. I’d use half the recommended dose of fertilizer for new plantings, if at all. It remains lush all year round and there is no need to prune it. You’ll probably have to pull away some dead leaves in the winter, but you won’t have to spend additional time mulching it.

Interest in grasses and sedges has increased lately and I’m listing the three varieties of sedges about which I get the most inquiries.

Carex conica 'Hime Kansugi': One of the shortest Carex, it grows between 6" - 12” tall and 8" -10” wide. This dwarf variegated plant of green and white grows in sun or shade in Zones 5-9. Plant them 8" apart for an immediate full, dense look.

C. hachijoensis 'Evergold': Peaks at 8" - 12" tall, but has a wide spread up to 18”. This evergreen variety is very popular because of its slow growing and mounding habits as it spreads. Very nice green and yellow striped one-half inch wide leaves. Grows in Zones 6-9 and must have well-drained most soil. Great as a ground cover, but needs to be divided every few years to keep it tall and thick.

Carex morrowii 'Ice Dance': Grows 12” tall and 18” wide in sun or shade. It has green one-half inch wide leaves with white edges. Lives in Zones 5-9 and should be planted 18” apart. Lights up a shady spot well. This variety is very aggressive and is probably best suited for a container or ground cover.

Carex sedges are becoming more popular because they’re easy to take care of, gorgeous, and often the most colorful plant in the winter garden. If planted in moist to soggy areas in sun or shade they’ll do well and won’t need additional maintenance.

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