Rupture Wort In Linnaeus's Truss

That place just betwixt excruciating pain,
And, “oh don’t worry, I will be fine,”
Twisted back, muscles stretched to the limit,
No pain worse, at least not at that time…

- From Rupture Zone by Ed Matlack

Pain motivates sufferers to seize upon any offer of relief. An astute physician near Devon, England, having studied the doctrine of signatures, might have mused upon the knotty little flower of a weed, thought, "Of a hernia it doth remind me", and offered it as a cure to a desperate patient. I'm only speculating, of course. But however it happened, it apparently worked, for the herb became known as Rupture Wort.

Rupture Wort is also known by its botanical name, Herniaria glabra. Certainly, its use was well-established before the scientific name was bestowed.  Linneaus himself might have carried a poultice wrapped in his truss, studied it and declared, "I shall call this Herniaria.

Herniaria is an unassuming little plant, prostrate and spreading, and no more than three inches high. The leaves are small and smooth. Flowers are insignificant. That it should have been so widely accepted as a medicinal plant is marvelous. Not only was it highly regarded as a treatment for hernia, but was valued as a cure for various bladder and kidney-related maladies such as dropsy, cystitis and kidney-stones. It has also been used as a healing poultice for ulcers. The Cincinnati Lancet - Clinic, Volume 16; Volume 55, p. 480, documented medicinal uses of Herniaria.

Whether for good or ill, Herniaria has fallen into disuse by physicians. Gardeners, however, have discovered less controversial applications. Because it produces an evergreen, practically indestructible mat, it is favored as a ground cover. Foliage turns bronze-red in winter. It's somewhat drought-tolerant, so is suitable for xeriscaping. Because it's very tolerant of foot traffic, Herniaria makes a wonderful lawn substitute. It's also beautiful cascading over walls. Herniaria grows at a reasonable rate, covering ground as a good ground cover should, but is easy to control. The mat is right dense, so tends to smother weeds very effectively. Some gardeners collect plants because of their special interests. Herniaria would be a good choice for medicinal herb gardens.

Herniaria thrives in full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 6 to 9, though some gardeners have reported it growing in zones 5 and 11. It tolerates a wide variety of soil types with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.

Before you plant, take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing. The results will specify any soil amendments needed.

If your soil is not friable, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6 inches deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10 inches deep.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4 inches to 6 inches of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants approximately 12 inches apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1 inch deep.

Though arguable whether Rupture Wort is actually an effective treatment for hernias, I should think that such a low-maintenance plant might take some of the ache out of gardening.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

FAQ: What's wrong with my centipede lawn?

(I visited the site and took a soil sample to the local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing.)

Your lawn problems are related to shade, mowing height, soil pH, phosphorus and potassium levels, fertilizer, irrigation and soil erosion on the slope. In addition, tree roots are surfacing in the front yard. Sod will not grow over the visible roots.

Centipede grass does best in full sun. Most of your front lawn is shaded. There is nothing that can be done about the shade.

Your grass is cut too short. Centipede grass should normally be cut at a mowing height of 1-1/2" to 2", but due to the shade (lack of available light) the mowing height should be increased to 2-1/2". This provides more leaf surface and allows the sod to make the best use of available light.

Soil pH is too low (4.3). Raise it by applying dolomite (pelletized lime) at a rate of 55 pounds per 1000 square feet.

Phosphorus and potassium levels are too high. Centipede is very sensitive to high phosphorus levels. There is nothing that can be done to reduce the phosphorus and potassium levels. Time will take care of it. Do not use fertilizer containing phosphorus or potassium.

Apply 1-1/2 pounds of 34-0-0 or 1 pound of 46-0-0 fertilizer per 1000 square feet after spring green-up and again in mid-summer. Irrigate immediately after fertilizer application. Irrigate during dry weather to avoid stress.

There is nothing that can be done about the visible tree roots, though some soil could be added to repair eroded areas. If soil is added in the spring, sow annual rye grass to help prevent further erosion.

There are alternatives to maintaining a centipede lawn in difficult circumstances.

The first alternative would be to have the front lawn sodded with St. Augustine grass. St. Augustine is more shade tolerant. Sod roots should be in full contact with soil, so sod should not be put down over surfacing tree roots.

Another alternative would be to grow a more shade tolerant ground cover instead of sod. Trachelospermum asiaticum (Asiatic jasmine), Glechoma hederacea (Creeping Charlie), Ophiopogon japonicus (Mondo) and Herniaria glabra (Rupturewort) would be good choices. Alternative ground covers should be prevented from growing into neighbors' lawns.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.