The Japanese Maple: How One Small Tree Can Transform an Entire Garden

 

There are trees that fill a yard… and there are trees that set the tone of the place. The Japanese Maple belongs to the latter class. Plant one well and the garden immediately feels older than it is — as if someone wise has been tending it for a hundred years and simply stepped inside for tea.

Native to the wooded mountains of Japan and Korea, Acer palmatum evolved as an understory tree: filtered light, cool soil, leaf litter at its feet, and protection from harsh afternoon sun. Give it those courtesies and it rewards you with a kind of refinement few plants can match. The foliage alone justifies its reputation — lace-cut, palmate, feathery, or broad depending on the cultivar — emerging in spring like stained glass and closing autumn in fire: scarlet, ember red, gold, orange, and wine.

This is not a fast tree, and that is precisely its virtue. It grows deliberately. It ages visibly. Every year it improves.

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Characteristics

• Botanical name: Acer palmatum (and related Japanese maple cultivars)

• Mature height: 6–25 ft depending on cultivar (many remain shrub-sized)

• Spread: 4–20 ft

• Growth rate: Slow to moderate

• Lifespan: Long-lived ornamental tree

• Form: Upright, vase-shaped, weeping, or mounded depending on variety

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Light Requirements

Morning sun with afternoon shade is ideal — especially in the Deep South.
Full sun is tolerated in cooler climates; in hot regions it will scorch leaves, and the tree will quietly tell you you’ve planted it in the wrong place.

Best placement:

• East side of a house

• Beneath tall pines or open-canopy trees

• Courtyard or sheltered garden

Avoid:

• Western exposures

• Parking-lot heat

• Wind tunnels between buildings

Japanese maples do not like being blasted. They prefer being invited.

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Soil & Planting

These trees care less about soil fertility than about soil condition.

They demand:

• Excellent drainage

• Organic matter

• Cool root zone

Ideal soil:

• Loamy or sandy loam

• pH 5.5–6.5 (slightly acidic)

• Amended with composted bark or leaf mold

Planting tips

1. Dig wide, not deep — twice the width of the root ball.

2. Plant slightly high (1–2 inches above grade).

3. Never bury the trunk flare.

4. Mulch 2–3 inches deep (pine bark or pine straw preferred).

5. Keep mulch off the trunk.

Japanese maples die more often from kindness than neglect — usually from heavy soil and buried roots.

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Watering

Consistent moisture is crucial the first two years.

• Keep soil evenly moist, not wet

• Water deeply once or twice weekly during establishment

• Avoid daily shallow watering

• Once established, they tolerate short dry spells but resent drought

A dry Japanese maple curls its leaves. A drowned one simply disappears.

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Fertilization

Minimal feeding required.

• A light spring application of a slow-release balanced fertilizer

• Or simply top-dress annually with compost

Too much fertilizer produces long, weak growth and dull color. This is not a tree that wants to be pushed. It wants to be allowed.

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Pruning

Very little pruning is necessary.

Best practice:

• Remove crossing or dead branches in late winter

• Thin lightly for structure if needed

Never shear.
A sheared Japanese maple looks like a haircut on a violin.

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Landscape Uses

Japanese maples are placement trees — they create focal points and anchor composition.

Ideal uses:

• Entryway specimen

• Courtyard tree

• Woodland garden

• Water feature planting

• Container specimen (dwarf and weeping forms)

• Foundation accent (away from western sun)

They pair beautifully with:

• Azaleas

• Camellias

• Ferns

• Moss gardens

• Stone and gravel paths

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Why Gardeners Keep Planting Them

Because very few plants give four seasons of interest:

• Spring: luminous new foliage

• Summer: elegant form and cooling shade

• Autumn: blazing color

• Winter: sculptural branching

And perhaps most important — a Japanese maple makes a garden feel intentional.
It is a tree that teaches restraint. You stop cluttering around it. You begin arranging the rest of the garden in conversation with it.

Plant one properly and, long after trends in landscaping have come and gone, the tree will still be standing there — quietly improving the place.

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Call Before You Dig!

 

Call before you...WHAT?

‘Tis a season for planting. Homeowners are gearing up for improving their properties, making plans, buying trees and shrubs, and maybe even installing irrigation, fences or mailboxes. No doubt, this will involve digging holes or trenches.

Before you begin, you'd better find out what you're getting into. There could be electric power lines, outdoor lighting, conduits, gas lines, fuel oil pipes, buried telephone or internet cables, fiber optics, potable water or irrigation pipes/valves, sewage/drain pipes. You don’t want to cut through any of those. Accidents, some with very serious consequences, can occur if safety isn’t heeded, including explosions, flooding, electrocutions. Make a list of all utilities and contractors that you THINK might be involved.

Mark the specific area(s) where you’ll be working, so utilities aren’t flagging or painting your entire yard.

To find out utility locations, Dial 811 - Call Before You Dig, to make “a locate request.” It shouldn’t cost you anything, but it might. (Get that settled up-front.) The call center will contact all utilities in your area that subscribe to this service. You should receive a confirmation “ticket” or some such communication telling you which services have been contacted. Bear in mind, though, that not all utilities or contractors subscribe to this service! If you suspect that a utility wasn’t included on the list, double-check. Personally call the contractor, if necessary.

Here are a few of the most neglectful or uninformed contractors:

• Cable TV companies;
• Invisible dog fence installers;
• Irrigation contractors;
• Security firms.

In some cases they have no idea where their lines were buried. “It was so long ago…”

Utilities and contractors that have been notified must come to your property to mark their lines, usually with flags or paint, within a specified period of time particular to your state or area.

The markings are color-coded.

Red: Electric power lines, cables or conduit, and lighting cables.
Yellow: Gas, oil, steam, petroleum, or gaseous materials.
Orange: Communication, alarm or signal lines, cables or conduits, and fiber.
Blue: Potable water.
Purple: Slurry, irrigation and reclaimed water.
Green: Sewers, drainage facilities or other drain lines.

Once you’ve waited the few days required, check your list to confirm that the notified utilities have responded. If some didn’t, report it.

When you’ve done everything required for your safety, proceed with caution. Be sure not to dig where markings have been displayed. Dig promptly before the markings disappear due to wind, rain or landscape maintenance. Avoid surprises.

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Soil Tests – The Why and How

 

No doubt you've learned somewhere that soil tests provide essential guidelines for gardening. Perhaps the "why" and "how" have eluded you. This article might help.

You’ve probably noticed that different types of plants grow in different places. That’s because they are either native or adapted to distinct habitats. Drive through the countryside and you’ll see what I mean. On one side of a hill you might find a hardwood forest. The other side might be predominantly native pine. In another place there will be a grassy meadow. Farther along you might see a bog with sedges and alders. Each area has its own soil type, nutrient levels, drainage and chemistry. The lesson here is that plants thrive in locations and conditions that meet their needs.

Garden spaces are sometimes not so easy to judge. Further inspection and discovery will probably be necessary. Follow a similar exercise to your drive in the country when garden planning. Walk around your landscape taking note of drainage, sun exposure, slope and the plants that are thriving. Even moss and weeds can tell a story, but we'll delve into that some other time.

There are a couple of ways to determine your soil type, chemistry and condition. The first is to take a soil sample for testing. The second is to utilize the USDA Web Soil Survey tool. Taking a soil sample is easy enough. Using the USDA Web Soil Survey tool? Not so much.

A basic soil test will tell you three things: the soil pH (acidity or alkalinity), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Nitrogen (N) is not so easy to determine, so test results probably won’t show it. Advanced soil tests can reveal organic content and some minor element content. Keep in mind that a single soil test only provides a “snapshot” in time. Some of the element levels can change over the seasons.

Obtain a soil sample bag or bags from your local Cooperative Extension Service office. Fill in the blanks with your name, address and contact information. Check off the tests you want performed. Collect soil samples from various comparable places around your garden or landscape to provide a soil “profile.” Before taking samples, remove leaves and other debris from the immediate site. Scrape down to the actual soil. Mix the samples thoroughly in a clean plastic bucket. Transfer the mix to the soil sample bag, and return it to the office. A report should be mailed to you.

Using the USDA Web Soil Survey tool is another matter. You might find it here:

https://websoilsurvey.nrcs.usda.gov/app/

I can’t walk you through the steps. It wasn’t intuitive for me. You’ll just have to play around with the website until you figure it out for yourself. Nearly every square foot of the United States is included in the survey. No doubt you’ll find your square feet.

Here’s an example. Zeroing in to a delineated area on my property shows that it consists of two soil types: Pelham loamy sand (5.4% of the area) and Tifton loamy sand (94.6% of the area). What does that mean? According to the USDA, “The Pelham series consists of very deep, poorly drained, moderately permeable soils that formed in unconsolidated Coastal Plain sediments. These soils are on nearly level broad flats, toe slopes, depressions and drainageways.” “The Tifton series consists of very deep, well drained soils that formed in loamy marine sediments. Tifton soils are on interfluves. Slopes range from 0 to 8 percent.” Understanding these characteristics helps me figure out what to plant and where, especially if drainage is important.

With such facts in mind, the gardener can choose suitable crops and where to plant them. Obviously, this isn’t so vital if one is planting in containers or raised beds. However, when the homeowner is planning landscape plantings of trees, shrubs, perennials and vines, they are essential considerations.

You might have some particular plants in mind. If so, read the plant descriptions and learn about their soil requirements. Choose those that seem most compatible with your conditions.

If soil test reports indicate that amendments are necessary, make them weeks or months ahead of planting time to allow them to be incorporated into the soil and take effect.

It’s far easier to select plants appropriate to your situation than it is to dramatically change or amend your native soil to accommodate unsuitable plants of your choosing. Be realistic. Make it easy on yourself. Work with nature, not against it.

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February Garden Tasks?

 

  

Just when you think of sitting down and resting until spring, February rolls around. The month of February might be one of the busiest months for gardeners. Before you get too comfortable, let's review some of February's garden tasks.

To make it easier, we're organizing them by region.

Northeast States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Avoid removing spring flower buds. Inspect those indoor plants around you for disease and insects. Refill your bird feeders. Shop plant and seed catalogs. Don't forget those nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb and asparagus, if you haven’t already. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Clean and oil garden tools.

Mid-Atlantic States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines; but avoid removing spring flower buds.  Inspect your houseplants for disease or insect problems. Feed the birds. Browse seed catalogs in print and online. Order onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus and spring flowering bulbs, if you haven’t already. Do you have bulbs and perennial roots in cool storage? Inspect them and throw out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Begin planting bare-root trees and shrubs. Sow warm-season annual and vegetable seeds in cold frames. Clean and oil garden tools. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

Mid-South States: Continue pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines.  Avoid removing spring-blooming flower buds. Prune and fertilize rose bushes. Spray dormant oil on dormant fruit trees, if you haven’t done so yet. Refill bird feeders often. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary. Sow warm-season annuals and vegetables in cold frame. Plant bare-root trees and shrubs. Plant perennial vegetables such as asparagus and rhubarb. Clean and oil garden tools.

Lower South and Gulf States: Cultivate garden soil. Sow root crops directly in your garden. Continue pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Spray dormant oil on dormant fruit trees, if you haven’t done so yet.  Continue planting and transplanting broad leaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Begin irrigating shrubs and trees as long as weather is above freezing. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant, if you haven't done it yet. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Follow the same regimen as for Northeast States.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Follow regimen for Lower South and Gulf States. Sow root crops directly in your garden.

Pacific Northwest States: Follow the same regimen as for Mid-Atlantic States.

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When To Prune Deciduous Shrubs

 

One very important part of gardening is knowing when to prune your plants.  Pruning at the right time will result in healthy ones. Pruning at the wrong time may result in their being unhealthy, unattractive and unproductive.

Since there are so many types of plants to consider, we’ll focus in this article on deciduous shrubs. 

The best time to prune depends upon their growth habit, bloom season, and condition. 

Spring-flowering species such as forsythia, Japanese quince and lilac bloom on buds produced the previous season. Early pruning will remove many of those buds and reduce the flowery display that we anticipate so anxiously. 

Since overgrown shrubs might need a lot of pruning, the best time to work on them is late winter or early spring before growth begins. The precise months will vary depending on your climate zone. Extensive pruning will certainly reduce the number of blooms produced for the next couple of years, but the shrubs will be better off in the long run.

You should wait to prune healthy spring-flowering shrubs until just after flowering. This will allow you to enjoy the spring flowers while allowing plenty of time for growth and new buds to set for next year’s display.

Summer-flowering species such as dwarf crape myrtle, spirea, and butterfly bush bloom on new growth.  Prune them in late winter or early spring.  They should bloom that year. 

If you’re growing certain shrubs for their attractive bark, colorful foliage or fruit, prune them in late winter or early spring before growth commences. 

Avoid pruning deciduous shrubs in late summer.  August or September pruning might encourage a late growth spurt.  The tender, new growth likely won’t harden enough before cold weather arrives and will be vulnerable to frost damage. 

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Invaders To Be Banned In South Carolina

Hate has no home here?

The State of South Carolina has officially banned the trafficking of certain foreign types within its borders. Some were formerly imported by none other than U.S. government agencies.

The federal government of the United States has a long history of introducing or promoting alien species in our country. Others were conveyed by private sponsors. Many are now despised, having brought infectious diseases, displaced natives, contributed to environmental and economic hardship, or become nuisances, at best.

In 1876, kudzu was brought to the United States Centennial celebration in Philadelphia by representatives from Japan. Was it a nefarious plan? We might never know, but the federal government began to promote it through the USDA and the Civilian Conservation Corps. Kudzu now covers vast areas of landscape and is known as “the invasive vine that ate the South.”

A list of hated species could be extensive. 

The Callery pear is one of latest to be identified and will be banned by officials in South Carolina. At least one other state – Ohio – has done so, and others will likely follow.

Callery pear is native to southeast Asia and Japan. An “improved” variety – Bradford – was introduced by the USDA in 1963. It was attractive, grew quickly, believed to be fruitless, and widely promoted for residential and commercial landscape planting. Since then, it has proven to be structurally weak, covers itself in stinky white flowers, and – surprise, surprise, surprise – bears loads of fruit when pollinated by other pears. Of course, the seeds are sown widely by wildlife, and Callery pear has overtaken the American landscape. “It has all the characteristics of a noxious weed,” said David Coyle, Clemson University’s assistant professor of Forest Health and Invasive Species.

Consequently, Callery pear has been added to the State Plant Pest List. Once place on the list, trafficking of such plants are banned immediately. But since several varieties of Callery pear are currently sold in the state, officials decided to phase out the trees over the course of a few years to mitigate adverse effects upon industry. As of October 1, 2024, however, the ban will go into full effect.

Clemson Extension has instituted a Bradford Pear Bounty program which seeks to educate consumers, convince them to plant better trees, and get rid of the pear trees in their landscapes. But since the public will often choose not to comply with government edicts, the State of South Carolina will ban their sale.

At the same time as Callery pear was included, three species of Elaeagnus were added to the plant pest list. For an extensive list of plants banned in South Carolina, check out the State Plant Pest List.

If you do not live in South Carolina, you should refer to the plant pest list in your own state. I’m sure yours has one. You’ll probably find a few species that you should avoid, as well.

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About The Cardinals

Northern Cardinal

And how to attract them

When the word Cardinal is mentioned, four things come to mind – the bird, the baseball team, a church official and something of major significance. All of these converge in the bird.

The bird – crested and often clothed in bright red – is ubiquitous. Depending on the species, its range spans most of the United States, into Mexico and South America.

There are three perky species in the genus, two of which are common in North America.

Northern Cardinal - Cardinalis cardinalis

The Northern Cardinal male is crested, brilliant red with a black mask. The female is olive with a reddish cast. It’s so common, widespread and stunning that this species has been designated the official state bird of Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, North Carolina, Ohio, Virginia, and West Virginia. It is not the state bird of Missouri.

Though the bird is figured in the logo of the St. Louis Cardinals baseball team, the team was not named for the bird, but for a color in their uniforms. That color – cardinal – is the shade of the cassocks of certain high-ranking officials in the Catholic Church. Important, indeed!

The Northern Cardinal ranges from Maine and Canada, throughout the eastern U.S., westward into Texas, into Mexico and as far south as Guatemala.

It feeds on fruits, seeds – particularly black oil sunflower – and insects, which its thick, sharp beak can dispatch in short order. These are easy enough to find.

The Northern Cardinal sometimes displays the curious behavior of pecking at glass and other shiny surfaces. This is because it’s very territorial, especially in spring. That reflected image of itself is taken to be a threat.

Pyrrhuloxia - Cardinalis sinuatus

The Pyrrhuloxia or Desert Cardinal is mostly found in the arid southwest and Mexico. It is also crested and resembles the Northern Cardinal, though the male is colored gray with a red mask, breast and crest. The female is gray sans mask.

Its diet also consists of insects, fruits – particularly cactus – and seeds.

Vermilion Cardinal - Cardinalis phoeniceus

This one is quite similar to the Northern Cardinal with vibrant coloration and a more distinctive crest. It’s native only to the South American countries of Colombia and Venezuela. Since you won’t likely see it in your yard, you don’t need to worry about feeding it.

If you build it, they will come – certainly!

As noted before, cardinals are common in the United States. But they love to hide and nest in dense shrubbery. A good cardinal habitat will include a landscape of shrubs and low trees, seed-bearing grasses, flowers - particularly of the Asteraceae family.

Northern Cardinals are crazy about sunflower seeds, but they also eat cracked corn, safflower, peanut pieces, milo and millet. I love watching them adorn the winter branches of crape myrtles, devouring the seeds.

Pyrrhuloxia are fond of sunflowers and cracked corn. Bird-watchers in the Southwest should plant flowering, fruit-producing cacti.

If you really want to view them up close, seed feeders will surely draw them in. A vast selection of tray feeders, hoppers, tube feeders and ground feeders are for your choosing. However, if you’re a cat owner, or neighborhood cats visit you, skip the ground feeders.

Cardinals stand out in the crowd. Offer them attractive habitats, hiding places, water for bathing, their favorite foods, and you’ll be rewarded with a yard full of these delightful little creatures.

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About The Orioles

And how to attract them

For a type of blackbird, orioles are exceptionally colorful. Bright yellow, orange to chestnut colors contrast beautifully against black plumage punctuated with splashes of white. 

There are nine species native to North America – Baltimore Oriole (Icterus galbula), Orchard Oriole (Icterus spurius), Bullock’s Oriole (Icterus bullockii), Hooded Oriole (Icterus cucullatus), Scott's Oriole (Icterus parisorum), Audubon's Oriole (Icterus graduacauda), Altamira Oriole (Icterus gularis), Spot-breasted Oriole (Icterus pectoralis), and Streak-backed Oriole (Icterus pustulatus). Their ranges sometimes overlap, so it’s possible to observe one or more of them in your area.

Baltimore Oriole

The Baltimore Oriole is the most famous by far, if not for its abundance then certainly because of the Major League Baseball team that bears the name. But the bird was here first. They’re so named because their colors are similar to the heraldic crest of the Calvert family and Lord Baltimore, after whom Baltimore, Maryland is named. 

Its head is black, breast is orange, and white patches adorn the wings. As with many bird species, the difference between male and female colors is usually quite different – the males normally sporting brighter colors.

They range from eastern British Columbia to Nova Scotia, southward through Texas to Central America, Florida and Cuba. Their breeding range is from Canada to Louisiana, Alabama and Georgia. They overwinter in the warmest climates south of the U.S. border. In the United States, we’ll hear them early in spring high in the trees where they’re searching for insects and nesting materials. Their nests dangle from tree branches.

Orchard Oriole

The Orchard Oriole is slightly smaller than the Baltimore Oriole, and its range is a bit smaller, too. Nevertheless, it can be found in spring from southernmost Manitoba and Ontario, southward through Texas to Mexico, and eastward from Maryland to North Florida. 

Its head is black, and breast color is a darker chestnut. It lacks the large white wing patches of the Baltimore Oriole. 

It’s mostly found in shrubs and orchards, particularly near water sources. They hang around for a briefer period during breeding season – arriving in late spring and leaving by mid-summer. 

Bullock's Oriole

Bullock’s Oriole sojourns in the west. It ranges from southernmost Alberta and Saskatchewan to California, through Texas and into Mexico. They can be found in open woodlands, and shrubs and trees near water sources, which are especially needed in the arid southwest.

The crown of the head is black and bright orange with a black stripe across the eye. The breast is also orange. White patches and streaks adorn the wings.

Hooded Oriole

The Hooded Oriole ranges further west, from California to Nevada, southward through Texas and Mexico. They can also be found in open woodlands and yards, especially among palms from which they find nesting fibers. They actually hang their nests among the fronds to avoid detection.

Their wings, backs and tails are black, as are the lower half of their faces. Their breasts and heads range in color from bright yellow to bright orange. White streaks on their wings.

Scott's Oriole

Scott’s Oriole travels from southernmost Idaho and easternmost Nevada through Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, Texas and into Mexico. It frequents deserts and mountain slopes, flitting and flirting among yuccas, pines, palms and junipers.

Scott’s Orioles have black heads, backs and wings streaked with white. Breasts and bellies are lemon-yellow.

Audubon's Oriole

Audubon’s Oriole is very much like the Scott’s Oriole, but does not have the black back. It’s doubtful that you’ll spy them very often. They live in southernmost Texas and in limited regions of Mexico. They’re rather shy creatures, searching among brush and woodlands for insects. If you see one, consider yourself lucky.

Altamira Oriole

The Altamira Oriole is another you’ll rarely see unless you live in the Texas Rio Grande region. Their heads are bright orange. They sport black masks and a black streak down the center of the breast. Backs, wings and tails are black with white streaks. 

Look for them in parks, open woodlands, and high branches in trees near water. As with other orioles, their nest can be seen dangling from heights.

Spot-breasted Oriole

Spot-breasted Orioles inhabit a very limited range in the United States in eastern Florida from Cape Canaveral to Miami, only because they were introduced there sometime after World War II. Otherwise, they’re native to the lower western coast of Mexico and into Central America.

They’ve become somewhat common in Florida. They look very much like the Altamira Oriole, but have black spots on the breast spreading toward the wings.

Streak-backed Oriole

Streak-backed Orioles visit the southwestern United States, but are mostly found in western Mexico and southward into Central America. It’s flame orange on its head, belly, breast and back. A black streak marks its breast and black streaks run down its back. Its tail is black. White streaks adorn its wings.

You may find them in arid grasslands, open woodlands and shrubs. They are very much attracted to various mimosa plants, which are rich in nectar, so homeowners in those areas would plant them to attract these avian gems.

Which brings us to the next subject.

How to attract orioles.

Photo credit: Lori Meehleder

If you build it, they will come...maybe.

It just so happens that most orioles are suckers for sweet fruits and nectar. Yes, they eat insects, but they  adore sugar.

Dark and brightly colored fruits, in particular, attract their attentions. Oranges, blackberries, raspberries, blue and purple grapes, plums, blackberries, raspberries, red cherries and crab apples will keep them coming back. You can provide them in feeders, or better still, plant a few shrubs and trees in your yard!

Split oranges in half and secure them on nails or dowels. Chop up pieces of apple to present in bowls or shallow cups. Do the same with grapes and berries. Would you like to provide an opulent feast? Put a few dollops of grape jelly in the bowls. 

Nectar rich flowers such as Trumpet Vine will entice them. Not only is the nectar sweet, but the color is just right, too – bright orange and red.

Those orioles that are native to the Southwest and South will also feed on yucca flowers. Yucca plants are very drought-tolerant, too. They’re perfect for xeriscaping, whether of necessity or simply to save on your water bill.

Since they’ll drop in to feed, why not provide the orioles with nesting materials. Oriole nests are complex things, sort of like dangling purses to hold their young. Fibrous plants will do the trick. Palms and yucca plants are very fibrous. Southerners should be able to grow them with ease. In colder regions, orioles will make good use of long grass blades, hair, threads and string, even plastic strips. Though it’s best not to leave plastic blowing around, it’s good to know that errant pieces can be used for good.

Orioles are certainly some of the most colorful bird species of North America, and they’re more interesting to birders because they don’t hang around very long in their breeding areas. So, be prepared for their coming in the spring. Purchase your oriole feeders, buy grape jelly (!), plant your fibers and save string for the next season so you can enjoy these exotic-looking creatures while they last.

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Great Plants For Your Rain Garden

In an earlier blog article – How To Create A Rain Garden – we discussed an important element – rain garden planting zones. Here's what you need to know.

Divide your rain garden into zones, and select plants appropriate to each. Depending on the size of the garden, you might choose plants ranging in size from low ground covers to perennials, small or even large shrubs.

    • Zone 1 is the deepest where water will stand the longest. Plants for this area should be able to thrive in standing water for awhile.

    • Zone 2 is an intermediate area where water will stand for short periods, but drain away. It is just above and wraps around Zone 1. Plants for this area should be able to grow in wet or dry ground.

    • Zone 3 is the uppermost, wrapping around the other two, and will be the driest. Plants for this area should be able to withstand periods of dry weather.

Here are some plant suggestions for each zone.

Zone 1

• Blue Sedge with its blue-green arching leaves is a perfect plant for that area where drainage is a problem. It's ideal for naturalizing, bog gardens, rain gardens, water gardens, container gardens, and erosion control. As a lawn substitute, it will tolerate some foot traffic. It's also deer resistant! Carex 'Bunny Blue'® is a very attractive variety.
• Japanese Sweet Flag thrives in wetlands like along ponds, rain gardens or pools, and can even grow when submersed. It's one of the best grassy solutions for those problem areas with poorly drained soils.
• Golden Creeping Jenny is an excellent ground cover solution for any size area. It's also successful in container gardens, hanging baskets, bog gardens and perennial borders. Because it tolerates some foot traffic, Lysimachia is perfect around patios and between stepping stones.
• Mazus is a preferred ground cover for moist soils of any size area. Lush green leaves form a low, dense mat. Foliage is evergreen in warmer climates to semi-evergreen in cooler zones. Small, lavender or white flowers bloom from spring to summer.
•  Mondo grass is tolerant of wet areas as well as dry. It’s deer resistant, and tolerates some foot traffic.
• Royal Fern is a lovely native species that performs well in a wide range of climate zones. Light green fronds with burgundy-tinged edges emerge in spring, and turn medium green during the growing season. In fall, fronds turn yellow shades. Royal fern is clump-forming. Mature height is 24 inches to 60 inches. Foliage is dormant in winter. Royal fern is deer resistant.

Zone 2

• Appalachian Sedge is a graceful plant, native to the Eastern U.S. It has very fine, dark green, weeping blades, 12" long.  The leaf blades are evergreen in warmer climates. It has a clumping habit, and spreads slowly, making it suitable for borders. It's a great ground cover and lawn-grass substitute in dry shade.
• Creeping Lily Turf is a choice plant for a low maintenance ground cover in sun or shade. Evergreen foliage forms a dense, grassy covering that tolerates foot traffic, making it a fine lawn grass substitute, especially for those areas you'd prefer not to mow. It can take a period of wet weather, as well as drought.
• Blue Star Creeper is amazing. It tolerates a wide variety of soil conditions – wet or dry. If you're looking for a low-maintenance, low-profile, quickly growing ground cover with a long bloom season, consider Blue Star Creeper. Use it where you want a low-maintenance cover at a distance from high-traffic areas.
• Mondo grass, as mentioned above, is tolerant of a wide range of soil conditions. If you need a low-maintenance, lush, evergreen grass substitute for full sun to shade that tolerates a wide range of soil conditions, we highly recommend Mondo.
• Pennsylvania Sedge is a fine native plant choice for dry shade.  Use it for naturalizing, and erosion control. Pennsylvania sedge is deer resistant, too.

Zone 3

• Achillea – Yarrow. Achillea has long-lasting flowers, is drought-tolerant, repels pests, and is aromatic.
• Ajuga – Bugleweed. Ajuga is a drought-tolerant evergreen plant prized for its dynamic color that stays compact and thick year round.
• Asiatic Jasmine is a very desirable for ground cover and borders in warmer climates. It can be neatly edged for a manicured appearance. Asiatic Jasmine thrives in sun or shade, suppresses weeds, and resists hungry deer. Its dense habit will slow any rapid flow of water.
• Appalachian Sedge is mentioned above. It’s a fine plant for Zone 3 also.
• Black-eye Susan attracts butterflies. Birds get enthusiastic about the seeds. All varieties are reasonably drought-tolerant. They're especially suited to naturalizing, wildflower meadows, cutting gardens, wildlife gardens, native plant collections, heritage and cottage gardens. But they're wonderful in any perennial garden or border.
• Blue Pacific Juniper is an excellent ground cover solution for medium to large coastal gardens. It thrives in dry, sandy soils, is salt tolerant, and is very effective for erosion control. It's deer resistant, too!
• Coneflower is a tough and ever-popular addition to any perennial garden. Echinacea is loved around the world for its beautiful, showy flowers and reputed herbal remedies. It’s an ideal native plant for the dry area around the rain garden. If only all our plants could be so useful.
• Coreopsis is a bright-flowered plant with blossoms shaped like large asters. It does well in dry areas, and is well-suited to wildlfower gardens. Coreopsis is native to the U.S., and, thankfully, its ornamental value is widely appreciated.
• Pennsylvania Sedge is mentioned above. It is a good choice for Zone 3, also.

These are not exhaustive lists of plants suitable plants for rain gardens. But, with these plants to choose from, you can certainly create a lovely, low-maintenance, and sustainable rain garden.

How To Create A Rain Garden

Ahhh. Hear the pitter-patter of little raindrops on the roof and window panes. What a relief. But sometimes it becomes a torrent and puddles around the door. Eventually it flows down the street. Maybe not so good.

Much of the runoff doesn’t stay where it belongs – in the soil. It can damage your home by collecting around the foundation, undermining it, or flooding the basement. It can create a problem for the environment by washing pollutants into nearby lakes, rivers and watersheds. The rapid flow of water can contribute to flooding downhill. Perhaps it’s time to act. A rain garden might be your best solution.

What, exactly, is a rain garden?

A rain garden is a good-sized depression in the soil that’s created on sloping ground to catch the water as it flows and hold it, allowing it to soak into the soil.  It’s planted with different plant species – often native – that thrive in the various conditions created by the garden. The plants hold soil in place and  preventing erosion. Their roots absorb water, as well. Pollutants may be neutralized or dissipated.

What size and shape is a rain garden?

The size of your rain garden depends on your landscape and what it will accommodate. It should cover at least 100 sq. feet – best if it’s larger. But if there’s not enough room for that, a smaller one will do; it’s better than nothing.

The depth also depends upon your conditions. It shouldn’t be deep enough to form a perpetual pond, but not so shallow that water flows in and out in a flash – flood, that is. About 4 inches to 10 inches deep should be about right.

Abrupt angles are difficult to maintain, and not particularly appealing. A simple kidney-shape or something similar with gentle curves is desirable and popular.

Where should I create my rain garden?

The best place to create your rain garden is in the path of the downward water flow. You can learn this by observation. There are other situations to consider, too, like foot traffic. It’s best to avoid places where someone might step into it, trip and fall.

Make sure you don’t site it where you’ll encounter utilities, underground cables, or a septic drain field as you dig. More about that next.

How do I create my rain garden?

Call 811 – the national call-before-you-dig phone number. As their website states, “Anyone who plans to dig should call 811 or go to their state 811 center's website before digging to request that the approximate location of buried utilities be marked with paint or flags so that you don't unintentionally dig into an underground utility line.” Then wait for their people to show up. Be patient. Even when the lines are supposedly marked, dig with caution. Cable television lines, especially, are notoriously shallow.

Mark the chosen site in the desired shape. Lay out a flexible garden hose around the garden’s perimeter. It’s temporary, and can be moved about until you’re satisfied with the shape. You may also mark the area with flags or orange spray paint.

Cut the grass short, then remove the sod inside the perimeter with a spade. Better still, rent a sod-cutting machine. Recycle the sod to cover bare spots elsewhere in your lawn.

Dig to the desired depth with gently sloping sides. The deepest level should be near the lower end with a flat base about 24 inches or more across. This will provide a place for some plants to grow, and allow water to percolate downward evenly.

Test the soil pH. You can obtain a soil sample bag from your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office. Follow instructions. Return the sample to the office, and pay a nominal fee. You should receive the results in a couple of weeks.

Amend the site, if necessary. You might need to adjust the pH according to the soil test recommendations.

Test the water absorption rate. Add a few measured inches of water to the site. If the soil is packed hard so that water doesn’t infiltrate quickly – about ½ inch per hour – you’ll need to break through the hardpan using a method called “double-digging.” You might need to add sand, milled sphagnum or compost – mixing well – to enhance the “structure” making it suitable for plant growth, and to improve the “permeability” of your native soil.

Divide your rain garden into zones, and select plants appropriate to each. Depending on the size of the garden, you might choose plants ranging in size from low ground covers to perennials, small or even large shrubs.

    • Zone 1 is the deepest where water will stand the longest. Plants for this area should be able to thrive in standing water for awhile.
    • Zone 2 is an intermediate area where water will stand for short periods, but drain away. It is just above and wraps around Zone 1. Plants for this area should be able to grow in wet or dry ground.
    • Zone 3 is the uppermost, wrapping around the other two, and will be the driest. Plants for this area should be able to withstand periods of dry weather.

Install your plants according to best practices appropriate to each species. Helpful information should be available on plant labels, from garden center staff, books, magazine and online sources such as our GoGardenNow plant catalog, and here at GoGardenNow – The Gardening Blog.

Mulch will not be necessary. Rainwater will be flowing down into the rain garden, and will wash the mulch right along with it making quite a mess. Lawn grass or ground cover perennials should stabilize the slopes around the edges quite well.

Maintain your garden during the early stages with adequate irrigation. This will help your plants to become established and get a good start. Fertilizer may not be needed, especially if compost was incorporated into the soil during site preparation.

Final thought

Enjoy your rain garden knowing that it will help prevent water runoff damage to your home, landscape and even distant watersheds. In addition, it will add interest and value to your property. 

Going Downhill Fast?

When mowing is no longer an option.

Frankly, I’ve not had to mow a grassy slope since I left East Tennessee three dozen years ago. But a homeowner’s recent question got me to thinking about it again. I remember well the difficulty of pushing a lawnmower up and chasing it down, or maneuvering it across an embankment. An older neighbor used to tie a rope to the handle of his mower, then let it down and pull it up the grade repeatedly to get the job done. Neither method was ideal.

Lawn grass is popular because it covers quickly, and usually controls erosion effectively. But mowing it is the problem. There might be better ways to landscape a slope. However, a few problems would need to be solved: erosion (drainage and hillside stabilization), plant selection, and usage (function). To quote the architect, Louis Sullivan, “form ever follows function.” Here are a few.

Build a retaining wall

Retaining walls serve two purposes: to control erosion, and to modify the grade. After constructing the wall, the up-slope area is back-filled to level-out the grade (more or less), so all purposes are achieved.

A grand variation of the retaining wall comes to mind that was used on great French, Scottish and English estates - the HA-HA. The retaining wall was built (as mentioned above), and the lower area was leveled out (more or less). This provided a clear view across the top of the wall to the vista beyond. It kept sheep and cattle from roaming across the lawn and pooping. It looked as though the wall wasn’t even there, until one attempted to run across the lawn and – surprise – suddenly dropped out of sight. HAHA!!!

Such a project is bound to be costly, so less expensive walls should be investigated. Mortar-less walls of stacked boulders might do.

Build terraces

Terraces are basically a series of lower retaining walls made by digging into the hillside to make flat beds. Each bed being lower than the one above. This method is as old as the hills, if you’ll excuse the pun. Farmers worldwide have used these. The most notable are the rice terraces of Asia.

Each level of your terraces may provide several areas for herb and flower gardens, shrub beds, wall plantings, and even seating areas. The terraces can be interconnected with a series of steps for easy access.

If your site is not too steep, you might elect to dispense with the terrace walls, but plant rows of deep-rooted shrubs and ground covers to hold the terraces in place.

Provide drainage

Whenever soil is disturbed, the hydrologic aspect of the site is changed. Where water once flowed, it flows elsewhere, or nowhere. Something has to be done about the water to prevent gullies from forming due to rapid water flow, or puddles if it goes nowhere. Certainly, drainage tiles or pipes can mitigate the problem, but more attractive solutions might include dry creek or stream beds filled with rocks to direct water flow downward, or rain gardens to catch the water and let it percolate into the soil.

Plant the hillside

If you don’t intend to use it for any other purpose, you can simply plant the hillside with deep-rooted species. A combination could include shrubs, herbs, ground cover perennials, vines and grasses. Drought-tolerant species such as junipers, lantana, echinacea, yarrow, ivies, liriope, vinca and creeping phlox would be good selections for the dryer, upper areas of the slope. Moisture-loving species such as daylilies, rudbeckia, liriope (again) and Rubus should be planted nearer the middle and bottom. If water tends to stand in some of the lower areas, bog-type plants such as Siberian iris, sedges and Japanese Sweet Flag would be appropriate. Perhaps there are plants native to your area that would do the trick.

When the problems of drainage (erosion and hillside stabilization) and plant selection have been solved, your maintenance problems should be very much reduced.

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Meet Begonia Viking™ XL Red on Chocolate F1, a 2019 AAS Flower Winner

Begonia Viking™ XL Red on Chocolate F1. Photo Credit: AAS

Meet Begonia Viking™ XL Red on Chocolate F1, a 2019 AAS Flower Winner!

All-America Selections says, "A brand new begonia with large, uniquely colored dark leaves has arrived! Judges were impressed with how the deep bronze/brown color remained sharp and intense throughout the season, no matter where they were located; north, south, east or west. The color tones shine through to give a stunning garden appearance. Covered with vibrant red flowers, the compact plant retains its shape well and does not become rangy. 'Given the options, I would choose this variety for my landscape beds.' states a judge who plans beds for a public garden. 'This year’s weather seemed unusually conducive to disease on large-leaf begonias but none of these plants were affected' states another judge. These extra-large (XL) mounded plants are perfect in both landscapes and containers."

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Be Careful How You Hold This Tongue

Cow's Tongue Cactus (Opuntia engelmannii var. linguiformis)

“The best time for you to hold your tongue is the time you feel you must say something or bust.” 

― Josh Billings, American humorist. 1818-1885

Well, I've got to tell you right now about Cow's Tongue Cactus (Opuntia engelmannii var. linguiformis). It's practically surreal in appearance. Its stark, long, tapered pads stretch upward and out like they're reaching for something to lick. If you were to feel its stinging lap on your flesh, you'd quickly withdraw. The pads are covered with spines. Some are long and obvious. Others are fine and barely noticeable, but even those can irritate your skin mightily.

So, you might ask yourself, "Self, what good is a plant like that? Why would anyone want it in their garden?" There are several reasons.

The first is for its sculptural appearance. The fleshy texture and bizarre appearance add a very artistic feature to the landscape. It's useful alone as a specimen plant or among others in a desert-theme garden. The bright yellow flowers of spring and ornamental purple fruits of fall lend a decorative touch.

The second is for its drought tolerance. If you reside in an arid part of the country, or just want to reduce your water bill, Cow's Tongue Cactus is for you. It thrives in poor, sandy soil, too.

The third is for its botanical significance. Cow's Tongue Cactus, like other Prickly Pear cacti, is native to the Americas - specifically Texas. Native plant enthusiasts and cacti/succulent collectors should include it among their selections.

Opuntia engelmannii var. linguiformis also honors history in its name. Linguiformis means "tongue-shaped." The genus, Opuntia, refers to a region in ancient Greece, Opus, where cacti were commonly grown. The species, engelmannii, recognizes George Engelmann. Engelmann (1809-1884) was a German-American botanist who studied native plants of the western frontier. His correspondence with fellow botanist, Ferdinand Lindheimer (1801-1879), is well-known.

As a matter of fact, it's worth mentioning here that this species is sometimes identified as Opuntia lindheimerii var., linguiformis. Lindheimer lived and worked in Texas. His collection of letters to Engelmann, A Life Among the Texas Flora (edited by Minetta Altgelt Goyne), is a classic.

Cow's Tongue Cactus

The fourth reason is for its use as a barrier. This is not one of those hedges you have to prune occasionally to keep up appearances. It manages quite well on its own without becoming unkempt. Believe me, intruders will think twice before trying to trespass. Cow's Tongue Cactus should be in your homeland security arsenal.

The fifth is for its edibility. Yes! You can eat it! The young, fleshy pads can be stripped of their spines, sliced and sauteed. The purple fruits, stripped of their spines, can be cooked to render a delicious, dark burgundy juice for syrups and other desserts.

Cow's Tongue Cactus is easy to propagate. Simply break off a few pads - with gloved hands, of course. Drop them onto a prepared site, and leave them undisturbed to root. A nice little colony will develop within a couple of seasons.

Here are a few tips for growing it.

Bloom Color: Yellow

Bloom Time: Spring

Foliage: Thick, fleshy, tongue-shaped pads

Height/Spread: 4' average height. Plant 6' to 8' apart.

Climate Zones: 8, 9, 10, 11.

Sun Exposure: Full sun

Soil Condition: Well-drained, sandy. Do not over-water. pH 6.1 to 7.8

Features: Sculptural foliage, yellow flowers, purple pear-shaped fruit.

Uses: Xeriscaping, native plant collections, cacti/succulent collections, desert- and Southwestern-themed gardens, edible gardens, barrier hedges.

Have you used Cow's Tongue Cactus (Opuntia engelmannii var. linguiformis) in your garden? Have you seen it in botanical gardens or plant collections? Tell us about it in the comment section. We'd love to hear from you!

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What is "xeriscaping?"

I posted a blog article several years ago answering this question, but the question is asked frequently, so I'll answer again.

"Xeriscaping" is a blend of two words to combine their meanings into one concept.  "Xeri" is derived from the Greek word, xeros, meaning dry.  "Scaping" is derived from the word "landscaping."  So the blended word describes a manner of gardening that reduces or eliminates the need for supplemental watering.  Xeriscaping is appropriate for regions that are naturally dry, for areas under water-use restrictions, and for those gardeners who simply want to reduce the expense or environmental impact of additional water use.

"Xeriscaping" is often associated with the accompanying logo, which, ironically, features a drop of water. The intent, I believe, is to emphasize that only a little water is needed for successful xeriscaping.

I recently journeyed through parts of Nevada, Utah, Colorado and Arizona where arid conditions prevail. Xeriscapes were in the majority. Grassy lawns were few. My eyes were opened to the many landscape designs that minimize the expense of irrigation and landscape maintenance, and to the vast array of plants that are suitable for xeriscaping. Far more are available than are used in other parts of the United States. These are things that desert-dwellers already know. They are relatively new to folks like me who are natives to humid, water-rich environments.

I have and will continue to feature plant species and designs that could save you a lot of time and money normally spent on conventional, high-maintenance landscapes. For past articles, check out this search link on xeriscaping.

What do you think about this concept? Does xeriscaping sound interesting to you? Are there particular types of plants or landscape design applications that you'd like to learn more about? Let me know in the comment section.

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Foundation Shrubs for Home Security

In my recent article, Ten Simple Landscaping Ideas for Home/Land Security, the first two safety precautions were: 

1. Choose low-growing foundation and border shrubs. (Low-profile shrubs require less pruning to keep them in bounds);
2. Prune foundation shrubs to 3 feet high. (This might be necessary if you are working with an existing planting.)

The reason should be obvious; home intruders prefer to do evil in secret than in plain view.

Here are two examples.

This one shows a clean foundation planting with few places to hide.

This one exhibits a foundation planting that practically hides the house.

Which home would you choose to burgle? (Don’t get any ideas, now. Google is watching you!)

Some examples of low-growing shrubs include:

• Dwarf yaupon holly (Ilex vomitoria ‘Nana’),

  

  Dwarf yaupon holly

  
  

• Carissa holly (Ilex cornuta ‘Carissa’),
• Japanese holly (Ilex crenata ‘Helleri’),
• Dwarf nandina (Nandina domestica ‘Alba’, ‘Firepower’ or ‘Filamentosa’),
• Dwarf gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans'),
• Buddleia 'Blue Chip' (PP19991),
• Satsuki azaleas (Rhododendron indicum cvs),
• Miniature crape myrtles (Lagerstroemia hybrids such as ‘World’s Fair’, ‘Chickasaw’, ‘Pokomoke’, etc.),
• Bird’s Nest Spruce (Picea abies ‘Nidiformis’),

  

  Satsuki azaleas

• Ground cover junipers (J. procumbens ‘Nana’, J. horizontalis‘Wiltonii’, J. conferta ‘Blue Pacific’).

This is by no means an exhaustive list.

Don’t think that tall plants are always excluded. If they're narrow, they don't provide such good places to hide. Some fine examples include:

• Sky Pencil holly (Ilex crenata ‘Sky Pencil’),
• Italian cypress (Cupressus sempervirens),
• Columnar yaupon holly (Ilex vomitoria ‘Will Fleming’).

  

  Sky Pencil holly

Foundation shrubs such as these will help to make your home a safer place for yourself and your family.

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