Behind the Garden Wall: Mead Botanical Garden, Winter Park, FL

Sometimes hidden gardens present fine rewards. Such is the case with the Mead Botanical Garden in Winter Haven, Florida. Tucked behind a residential neighborhood, Mead Botanical Garden is a modest trove of tropical species.

Theodore Mead, age 22

The Garden opened in 1940 in honor of noted horticulturist Theodore L. Mead (1852 – 1936). Mead was a pioneer in breeding new varieties of tropicals such as caladiums, bromeliads, orchids, daylilies, amaryllis and crinums. He was also a butterfly aficionado, apprenticed to William Henry Edwards, author of The Butterflies of North America. Mead is appreciated for discovering more than 20 new species of North American butterflies.

Neoregelia carolinae

Theodore and his wife moved to Oviedo, Florida in 1881. Oviedo was formerly known as the Lake Jesup Community. There he built greenhouses, propagated epiphytes and other tropicals, planted a citrus grove and gardens.

South Florida Railroad Depot

He was a sort of pioneer in the area. This was the “Old Florida” that some of us love to read about. Central Florida was becoming more accessible, thanks to railroads such as Henry Plant’s South Florida Railroad from Sanford to Tampa, with a railroad link to Oviedo. The Steamboat, Volusia, plied the waters weekly from Sanford. Orlando was soon to be re-incorporated.

Florida steamboat

 Considerable interest in citrus production was being promoted. Orchards were being planted. 

Of course, transportation was needed. A historical marker, located at the boat ramp at the end of Black Hammock Fish Camp Rd, east of FL 417 and north of Oviedo, tells of some efforts.  

“The Lake Jesup Steamboat company was incorporated in 1882 by lake area fruit growers by acquiring the steamboat Isis. This shallow-draft flat-bottomed boat sank that same year north of here in Lake George, a part of the St. Johns River...

South Florida Railroad's Oviedo Depot

“In 1888, Oviedo orange growers formed the Oviedo, Lake Charm & Lake Jessup Railroad, with the proposed rails to end at Solary's Wharf. This line never operated, but it did serve as a ploy in forcing the South Florida Railroad to lower unfair rates for hauling fruit.” Theodore Mead, having a degree in Civil Engineering from Cornell University, might have been involved.

After Mead’s death in 1936, his orchid collection was bequeathed to Eagle Scout and protégé, Jack Connery. With the aid of Rollins College Professor Edwin Grover, an effort was begun to create the botanic garden in Winter Park on 40 donated acres, about 15 miles from Oviedo. This is the basis of the garden we enjoy today.

Mead Botanical Garden kiosk

Mead Botanical Garden is a pleasant diversion from the well-known area attractions. Most of it is well-kept. (There’s only so much that volunteers, non-profit corporations and city partnerships can do.) Even so, good camera angles can capture the best features.

The garden is bordered on two sides by Howell Creek and Lake Lillian Marsh. Short strolls provide good views of both. Other points of interest include a camellia and cycad collection, a wildflower garden, rose garden, hummingbird garden, greenhouse, lovely bromeliads and various venues for meetings, lectures and entertainment.

Follow me behind the garden wall.

Mussaenda erythrophylla

Succulent, Euphorbia and palm collection

Billbergia pyramidalis

Livistonia chinensis

Creek view

Boardwalk

Medinilla magnifica

Codiaenum variegatum

Clerodendrum thomsoniae

Bromeliad collection

Neoregelia carolinae

Aglaonema communtatum

Kalanchoe gastonis-bonnieri

Tradescantia spathacea

Creek view

Aristolochia macrophylla

Bletilla striata

 

Clerodendrum trichotomum

 

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Looking for an ideal companion plant for your vegetable garden?

 

If you’re looking for an ideal companion plant for your vegetable garden, you can’t go wrong with Yarrow. Achillea species and hybrids – aka Yarrow – attract many helpful insects such as pollinators.

Beside pollinators such as bees and butterflies, which are crucial for abundant harvests, yarrow also attracts beneficial insects for natural pest control. Flower flies – Syrphids – and ladybug larvae devour aphids. The more, the better. Right? Then there are the parasitic wasps that gorge on caterpillars, such as tomato hornworms.

Yarrow varieties can grow from 1 to 3 feet tall with colors ranging from white to pink, red to yellow. Shorter varieties are best for vegetable gardens for they are unlikely to overshadow your goodies. They can spread, but are easily divided. The divisions can be replanted elsewhere.

So, if you’re looking for a fine companion plant that’s helpful in the garden, as well as highly ornamental, consider Achillea.

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The Gardener's To-Do List for February

 

You're probably getting the itch to get outside and begin gardening. For some of us, the time is now. For others, not so soon. February barely hints of spring. Swinburne described the month cleverly:

Wan February with weeping cheer,
Whose cold hand guides the youngling year
Down misty roads of mire and rime,
Before thy pale and fitful face
The shrill wind shifts the clouds apace
Through skies the morning scarce may climb.
Thine eyes are thick with heavy tears,
But lit with hopes that light the year's.

If, lit with hope, you must do something, here are a few gardening tasks for February organized by region.

Northeast States: Continue pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines; but avoid removing spring flower buds. Continue removing snow from evergreens to avoid limb damage. Inspect indoor plants for disease and insects. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb and asparagus, if you haven’t already. Start cool season veggies and annuals indoors. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Clean and oil garden tools. Organize your potting supplies.

Mid-Atlantic States: Continue pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines; but avoid removing spring flower buds.  Maintain house plants, checking for disease and insects. Feed the birds. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, and asparagus, if you haven’t already. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Plant bare-root trees and shrubs. Sow warm-season annuals and vegetables in cold frame. Prune fruit trees, shrubs and vines. Clean and oil garden tools. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis.

Mid-South States: Continue pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines.    Avoid removing spring-blooming flower buds. Spray dormant oil on dormant fruit trees, if you haven’t done so yet. Refill bird feeders often. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary. Sow warm-season annuals and vegetables in cold frame. Plant bare-root trees and shrubs. Clean and oil garden tools.

Lower South and Gulf States: Continue pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Spray dormant oil on dormant fruit trees, if you haven’t done so yet.    Continue planting and transplanting broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees as long as weather is above freezing. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant, if you haven't done it yet. Fertilize roses. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Follow the same regimen as for Northeast States. In addition, Prepare your grow lights and seed-starting supplies. Take inventory of your garden tools, and buy more, if necessary.

Pacific Northwest States: Follow the same regimen as for Mid-Atlantic States. In addition, plant fruit trees, roses, and cool-season vegetable crops. Divide perennials like hosta, daylilies, such.

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Bad-mouthing Groundcovers?

Embrace Them, Instead

Gardening articles frequently appear in magazines and newspapers complaining about “invasive”, “aggressive”, “opportunistic” or “energetic” plants that gardeners should avoid. The authors might be well-intentioned, but their opinions are almost entirely based upon personal, subjective experiences which are sensationalized, ill-informed, poorly considered, or they are parroting others. Nevertheless, their alarms are read by other gardeners and accepted as gospel-truth. Consequently, many fine solution plants are shunned, especially groundcovers.

Here’s a list of some that we are told to avoid:

Ajuga reptans - Bugle Weed
Carex spp. - Sedges
Dichondra argentea - Silver Dollar Weed
Euonymus fortunei - Wintercreeper
Ficus pumila - Creeping Fig
Gelsemium sempervirens - Carolina Jessamine
Hedera spp. - Ivy
Hemerocallis fulva - Ditch Lily
Hydrocotyle spp. - Pennywort
Hypericum calycinum - St. John's Wort
Lamiastrum galeobdolon - Yellow Archangel
Laurentia fluviatilis - Blue Star Creeper
Lespedeza spp. - Bush Clover
Liriope spicata - Creeping Lily Turf
Lysimachia clethroides - Gooseneck Loosestrife
Lysimachia nummularia - Moneywort
Mazus reptans - Creeping Mazus
Nassella tenuissima, aka Stipa tenuissima - Ponytail Grass
Ophiopogon japonicus - Mondo Grass
Pachysandra terminalis - Japanese Pachysandra
Rubus calycinoides - Ornamental Raspberry
Trachelospermum asiaticum - Asiatic Jasmine
Sedum spp. - Stonecrop
Veronica spp. - Speedwell
Vinca major - Big Leaf Periwinkle
Vinca minor - Periwinkle

Yada yada yada. The list goes on and on.

What those “experts” are ignoring is that these plants do what effective groundcovers are supposed to do; they cover ground. Without them, we are left with the kinds of problems that bare soils present us – wind and water erosion, soil compaction, weed infestations or bare spots where nothing else will grow, parched earth or boggy soils, and just plain ugliness.

Choose wisely.

Rather than eschew such solution plants, they should be adopted happily, planted selectively and maintained appropriately. Recognize from the start that ground covers, just as any other group of garden plants, serve particular purposes which others may not. Erosion, soil compaction, weed infestations, dense shade, arid and boggy soils can be solved with appropriate plant choices. Groundcover plants are in high demand as lawn grass substitutes, and what grass substitute is worth planting if it doesn’t spread rapidly and extensively.

Set limits.

Know that ground covers will do just that – cover ground. With that in mind, define their limits and stick to them. Physical barriers such as steel, brick or concrete edging are usually effective. Mechanical edging with power tools also works very well, sometimes in combination with physical barriers. 

Maintain them.

Nearly every plant in the landscape requires maintenance. Fertilizing, pruning and occasional mowing might be needed. Gardeners should assess their own willingess or abilities, and select their groundcovers accordingly.

Briefly said, take those exaggerated alarms about ground covers with a grain of salt.

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The Gardener's To-Do List for January

 

There’s not much new garden work to do in January. If you completed all your garden tasks in November or December, you should relax with your coffee or tea, seed catalogs and spring garden plans. In case you’re not sure, here is your checklist to review.

Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

Get your seeds ordered ASAP before they’re sold out!
Inspect your cold frames for needed repairs.
Organize your garden tools.
Add kitchen scraps to your compost bin.
Check the wrapping on your evergreen trees and shrubs, if you added any for snow protection.
It’s easy to forget watering during winter. Make sure your garden gets a couple inches each week.
Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.

South

Start planting asparagus and strawberries.
Be ready to cover crops again with frost cloth in case temperatures drop severely.
Get your seeds ordered.
Plant trees, shrubs and vines.
Add fallen leaves and kitchen scraps to your compost pile.
Prune certain ornamental trees and shrubs, grape vines, and fruiting shrubs.
Make sure your garden gets a couple inches of water each week.
Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.

Midwest

Organize your garden tools.
Inspect your cold frames for needed repairs.
Get your seeds ordered very soon.
Check your garden beds in case more mulch is needed.
Check the wrapping on your evergreen trees and shrubs, if you added any for snow protection.
Don’t forget to water your garden. Rain and snowfall might not be enough during dry winters.
Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.

Pacific Northwest

Get your seeds ordered now.
Add kitchen scraps to your compost bin.
Make sure your garden gets a couple inches of water each week.
Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.
Organize your garden tools.

West Coast

Plant bare root trees, shrubs and vines.
Add compost to your garden.
Refresh mulch, if necessary.
Organize your garden tools.
Keep your plants well-watered.
Get your seeds ordered now before they’re sold out!

Southwest

Plant winter vegetables and warm season annuals.
Be prepared to protect citrus from cold snaps.
Organize your garden tools.
Check frost protection fabric for tears.
Get your seeds ordered right away.
Inspect your irrigation system for leaks. Now is no time to waste water.
Make needed repairs to your garden tools before the spring rush.

What foods were served for the first Thanksgiving?

The first Thanksgiving is believed to have taken place in November 1621 when the Pilgrims and native Wampanoags gathered at Plymouth for a fall feast. The Pilgrims’ first year was a disaster. After a three-month voyage, they arrived near Cape Cod in November, 1620 – not exactly their intended haven. Virginia Colony was the original destination, but storms prevented traveling south. With winter approaching, they organized a sort of communist enterprise in which they organized their efforts and pooled their resources. Governor William Bradford observed that communal living “was found to breed much confusion and discontent and retard much employment that would have been to their benefit and comfort.” Starvation and disease took their toll.

The settlers reorganized so everyone was made responsible for his and his family’s well-being. The strategy worked. So, with much help from the local Wampanoag people, the Pilgrims survived. They were thankful, indeed. A three-day feast was organized to show their gratitude to kind Providence.

What did they eat? I’m glad you asked. According to the journal of Edward Winslow, Governor Bradford sent a small party to hunt fowl. Were they turkeys, partridges, quail or pigeons? I don’t know. Winslow also noted that the Wampanoag contributed five deer. Beyond that, what they ate is a matter of speculation, but we can assume that they feasted on the fruits of their labors – home-grown vegetables, locally harvested fruits and seafood.

Behold the possibilities.

The Wampanoag might’ve instructed them in growing the “Three Sisters” – corn, pole beans and gourds/pumpkins planted together as companions.

Corn harvest was said to have been abundant that first year. ‘Abenaki Rose’ (NOT pictured above) was a common variety of “flint corn” in the Northeast about that time. Easy to dry but impossible to eat fresh, it was probably ground into meal and boiled into something like runny grits.

Beans would’ve been easily dried after harvest, then served up later in a soup or stew. “Amish Nuttle”  might’ve been included. It was well-known among the Iroquois, and possibly elsewhere.

Native squash were widely grown. Cultivars might’ve included ‘White Scallop’ (aka Patty Pan), ‘Long Island Cheese’ and some similar to Seminole pumpkins of the Southeast.

Some of these heirloom vegetable cultivars are available through specialty seed companies. Perhaps you can locate, grow and harvest them for an authentic 17th century North American Thanksgiving in 2024.

Other foods could’ve included American groundnut (Apios americana) , tree nuts (Juglans and Carya), acorns (Quercus spp.) late-ripening or dried fruits.

Being located near the coast, fish and shellfish would've been available.

If you gather around a heavily laden table groaning with typical Thanksgiving fare, think of those brave, stalwart, hungry souls of yesteryear, and be grateful for the abundance available to you.

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The Gardener's To-Do List for December

 

We probably won’t feel like working in the garden, but there are some tasks we can accomplish even in December. Here are some to handle this month.

Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

Inspect your cold frames for needed repairs.
Plant trees and shrubs if you can still get your shovel in the ground.
Add more mulch to your garden beds.
Check the wrapping on your evergreen trees and shrubs, if you added any for snow protection.
Winterize your gas-powered garden tools, if you haven’t already. At the very least, drain fuel from the tanks and run the engines until they’ve used up what’s in the carburetors.
Complete maintenance of your garden tools by removing soil, applying a thin layer of oil.
It’s easy to forget watering during winter. Make sure your garden gets a couple inches each week.
Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.

South

Be ready to cover crops with frost cloth just in case temperatures drop severely.
Plant trees, shrubs and vines.
Add fallen leaves to your compost pile.
Add a couple inches of mulch to your garden beds.
Complete maintenance of your garden tools by removing soil, applying a thin layer of oil.
Make sure your garden gets a couple inches of water each week.
Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.

Midwest

Plant trees, shrubs and vines.
Inspect your cold frames for needed repairs.
Check your garden beds in case more mulch is needed.
Check the wrapping on your evergreen trees and shrubs, if you added any for snow protection.
Complete maintenance of your garden tools by removing soil and applying a thin layer of oil.
Don’t forget to water your garden. Rain and snowfall might not be enough during dry winters.
Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.

Pacific Northwest

Plant bare-root and container grown shrubs and trees.
Protect evergreen trees and shrubs from snow burdens.
Maintain your garden tools by removing soil and applying a thin layer of oil.
Make sure your garden gets a couple inches of water each week.
Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.

West Coast

Plant cold-hardy annuals and perennials.
Plant bare root trees, shrubs and vines.
Add compost to your garden.
Refresh mulch, if necessary.
Keep your plants well-watered.

Southwest

Plant winter vegetables and warm season annuals.
Be prepared to protect citrus from cold snaps.
Check frost protection fabric for tears.
Add compost to your garden beds.
Inspect your irrigation system for leaks. Now is no time to waste water.
Make needed repairs to your garden tools before the spring rush.

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The Gardener's To-Do List for November

 

Cold weather is nearly upon us. Some regions have already had their first snow. Here are some garden tasks to handle this month.

Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

• Seed and plant catalogs are arriving in the mail. Better make your choices and order early while the selection is best.
• If gardening over winter, inspect your cold frames for needed repairs. Construct low-profile hoop coverings for raised beds.
• Plant cold-hardy perennials and add some mulch for protection.
• Store your bountiful harvest over winter. A cool dark place is best. A root cellar, basement or utility room might do.
• Clean up your garden by removing organic debris to the compost pile.
• While you’re at it, turn that compost pile once again before winter sets in.
• Mark your perennials and bulbs with garden stakes.
• Plant trees and shrubs while you can still get your shovel in the ground.
• Add a couple inches of mulch to your garden beds.
• Protect evergreen trees and shrubs from breaking because of snow burdens. Wrapping them in burlap is a useful and inexpensive way of doing it.
• Winterize your gas-powered garden tools, if you haven’t already. At the very least, drain fuel from the tanks and run the engines until they’ve used up what’s in the carburetors.
• Complete maintenance of your garden tools by removing soil, applying a thin layer of oil to metal
• parts.
• Make sure your garden gets a couple inches of water each week.
• Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.

South

• Since it’s probably too late for you to sow seeds, plant winter vegetable sets in your gardens and raised beds.
• Seed and plant catalogs are arriving in the mail. Order early while the selection is best.
• Clean up your garden by removing organic debris to the compost pile.
• Turn your compost pile once again.
• Plant cold-hardy annuals.
• Plant trees and shrubs because “Fall Is for Planting!”
• Add a couple inches of mulch to your garden beds.
• Winterize those gas-powered garden tools. Drain fuel from the tanks and run the engines until they’ve they run out of gas.
• Complete maintenance of your garden tools by removing soil, applying a thin layer of oil.
• Make sure your garden gets a couple inches of water each week.
• Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.

Midwest

• Plant cold-hardy perennials.
• Add garden debris to your compost pile, and turn it again.
• Plant trees, shrubs and vines.
• If gardening over winter, inspect your cold frames for needed repairs. Construct low-profile hoop coverings for raised beds.
• Store your harvest over winter. A cool dark place is best.
• Seed and plant catalogs are arriving in the mail. Shop now while the selection is best.
• Mark your perennials and bulbs with garden stakes.
• Add a couple inches of mulch to your garden beds.
• Protect evergreen trees and shrubs from breaking because of snow burdens. Wrapping them in burlap is a useful and inexpensive way of doing it.
• Winterize your gas-powered garden tools, if you haven’t already. At the very least, drain fuel from the tanks and run the engines until they’ve used up what’s in the carburetors.
• Complete maintenance of your garden tools by removing soil and applying a thin layer of oil.
• Make sure your garden gets a couple inches of water each week.
• Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.

Pacific Northwest

• Prepare your cold frames and hoop structures over your raised beds.
• Add compost to your garden beds.
• Plant bare-root and container grown shrubs and trees.
• Remove debris from your orchard and berry patches.
• Protect evergreen trees and shrubs from snow burdens.
• Winterize your gas-powered garden tools.
• Complete maintenance of your garden tools by removing soil and applying a thin layer of oil.
• Make sure your garden gets a couple inches of water each week.
• Drain garden hoses and store them out of the way after each use.
• Seed and plant catalogs are arriving in the mail. Better make your choices and order early while the selection is best.

West Coast

• Seed and plant catalogs are arriving in the mail. Shop now while the selection is best.
• Plant cold-hardy annuals, perennials and root vegetables.
• Add compost to your garden.
• Refresh mulch, if necessary.
• Remove organic garden debris to your compost pile, and turn the pile once again.
• Keep your plants well-watered.

Southwest

• Plant winter vegetables and warm season annuals.
• Seed and plant catalogs are arriving in the mail. Order early while the selection is best.
• Be prepared to protect citrus from cold snaps.
• Add compost to your garden beds.
• Inspect your irrigation system for leaks. Now is no time to waste water.
• Make needed repairs to your garden tools before the spring rush.

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Keeping A Garden Diary

 

When I was preparing my fall garden yesterday, I purposed to write down each and every step. I didn’t at the time, and if it weren’t for the dreary, rainy weather today, I might not still.

As William Allingham (d. 1889) wrote,

A man who keeps a diary, pays
Due toll to many tedious days;
But life becomes eventful--then
His busy hand forgets the pen.

But if yesterday’s gardening activities and thoughts aren’t noted, they’ll, no doubt, be forgotten, successes seldom repeated, failures repeated too often, and, perhaps, creative ideas remembered no more. We should, therefore, keep a garden diary.

I make this distinction between a garden diary and a mere journal. In most cases, a journal is simply a record of what has been done. A diary, however, may include much more. Yes, all those gardening details are included, but so are personal reflections, “thoughts and intents of the heart”, and other things besides.

What shall we write in?

There’s no rule here to follow; only preferences. I prefer a hard-bound octavo (8vo) size book, approximately 6” x 9”. Nothing smaller. My wife writes in a quarto (4to) 9.5” x 12” sketch book. Spiral-bound, paper-cover books don’t provide the permanence we desire.

There are gardening apps available for logging such things. I have one on my phone, in fact. It’s novel, but not as satisfying as putting a writing instrument to paper.

Now what? As any writer or artist will tell us, there’s nothing more intimidating than a blank page or canvas. But, begin we must. (Note: We mustn’t expect perfection at first. Writing will become easier as we go.)

So, what shall we include?

Details, details, details.

Every garden begins with a foundation, id est. soil. Gardening successes and failures usually depend on it. Whether planting in native or imported soils, let’s begin with a soil test. We can do it ourselves with a kit, available at garden shops or online, or stop by the nearby Cooperative Extension Office for assistance. Remembering that “this is only a test” and a snapshot of soil conditions at one place and time, the results are worth knowing. Believe it or not, soil test results can differ with the seasons, so take soil samples for testing the same time or times each year. Keep a record.

Times and seasons change, as does the weather. Take note of them (month, day, year) and weather as we work. Record early and late frosts, dry spells, and such. My grandparents were firm believers in “planting by the signs”, so kept a dog-eared Farmer’s Almanac close at hand all year long for handy reference. It made sense to them, and now to me. Let’s write it down. Did we or did we not plant during the right “sign”? Even if you’re not “a believer”, try it. You might be converted.

We should record the species and varieties in our gardens, their placement and spacing, their companions, and the sources of our seeds and plants. Those notes can be mighty important when we try to figure out later what went right or wrong. I even take note of the company brand names and “packed for” dates on seed packets.

Personal reflections.

I do more thinking in my garden than almost anywhere else. Before moving on too far beyond the moment, we may “set a spell” to compose a few lines. What does it matter if a bit of dirt gets on the paper? No one will see it, anyway. Dreams, creative ideas, future plans and prayers are fine subjects.

Souvenirs.

There’s no reason – none whatsoever – keeping us from using our garden diaries for pressing flowers and foliage. Though I haven’t done it recently, I’ll occasionally open an old volume to find a blossom or herb among the pages. Then, almost mysteriously, the fragile tissues will evoke memories of the time and place when they were tucked away. Other keepsakes might include such things as small newspaper or magazine clippings, photos, and empty seed envelopes.

Art for art’s sake.

Though it can be mighty frustrating, gardening is often inspirational. Sometimes romantic. With instrument in hand, let’s sketch some beautiful sight before us – a butterfly, fruit, flower, leaflet, a still life or landscape scene. Perhaps we can add a bit of watercolor, conté or colored pencil a little later.

If we’re inclined to poetry or prose, what better place to express ourselves without prying eyes judging our voices?

We might never become as accomplished as diarists Edith Holden or Samuel Pepys, nor should we judge ourselves by them, but our garden diaries may become more useful and precious to us in years to come because they are compositions of our very own and contain memories unique to ourselves.

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The Gardener's To-Do List for October

 

Robert Frost's poem, "October", perfectly evokes the images and sentiments of the month that is upon us.

       
O hushed October morning mild,
Thy leaves have ripened to the fall;
Tomorrow’s wind, if it be wild,
Should waste them all.
The crows above the forest call;
Tomorrow they may form and go.
O hushed October morning mild,
Begin the hours of this day slow.
Make the day seem to us less brief.
Hearts not averse to being beguiled,
Beguile us in the way you know.
Release one leaf at break of day;
At noon release another leaf;
One from our trees, one far away.
Retard the sun with gentle mist;
Enchant the land with amethyst.
Slow, slow!
For the grapes’ sake, if they were all,
Whose leaves already are burnt with frost,
Whose clustered fruit must else be lost—
For the grapes’ sake along the wall.

This poem is believed to be in the public domain.

Now that some of us are beginning to bundle up against the chill, let's go garden now. Here are some gardening suggestions for each region.

Northeast Region

• Winterize your irrigation, but keep it available for use. You'll still need to water your plants.
  
• Continue dividing your perennials.
  
• Plant fall annuals, if you haven't done so already.
• Protect your roses, removed dead or damaged parts, add extra mulch around the graft union.
  
• Add finished compost to your garden beds.
• Mulch your beds for cold protection.
  
• Turn your compost pile, again.
• Winterize your gas-powered tools. 
• Pull up stakes and tomato cages, clean and remove to storage overwinter.
  
• Clean up garden debris.
• Begin harvesting your root vegetables.
• Dead-head perennials.
• Save seed, where possible, for planting next spring.
• Cover your hoop houses and cold frames.
• Store containers that might crack in winter in a protected, dry area.
  

Mid-Atlantic

• Plant fall annuals, if you haven't already. 
• Plant spring-flowering bulbs.
• Winterize gas-powered tools.
• Remove garden debris.
  
• Clean hand tools and add a protective layer of oil to prevent rust.
  
• Get your vegetable starter plants in the ground, if you haven't already.
  
• Fertilize winter vegetables and cold-season annuals.
  
• Remove spent plants and compost them.
• Begin harvesting root vegetables, unless you intend to store them in the ground.
•  Add a protective layer of mulch to your garden.
•  Pull up stakes and tomato cages, clean and remove to storage overwinter.
• Turn the compost pile.
• Cover your hoop houses.
•  Winterize your irrigation, but keep it available for use. You'll still need to water your plants.

Southeast

• Cut and dry flowers and herbs for later use.
• Collect and dry seeds for next year's planting, but leave some for the birds.
  
• Plant your spring-blooming bulbs. 
• Plant cool season annuals.
• Divide your perennials.
  
• Harvest fruits and vegetables.
• Stop fertilizing trees and shrubs. 
• Turn your compost pile, again.
• Keep weeding!
  

Midwest

• Plant fall annuals, if you haven't already. 
• Winterize gas-powered tools.
• Remove garden debris.
  
• Clean hand tools and add a protective layer of oil to prevent rust.
  
• Fertilize winter vegetables and cold-season annuals.
  
•  Add a protective layer of mulch to your garden.
• Turn the compost pile.
• Cover your hoop houses.
•  Winterize your irrigation, but keep it available for use. You'll still need to water your plants.

Pacific Northwest

•  Continue harvesting fruits and vegetables.
  
• Turn the compost pile.
• Winterize garden tools.
•  Clean hand tools and add a protective layer of oil to prevent rust.
• Add protective mulch to your garden.
• Winterize your irrigation, but keep it available for use. You'll still need to water your plants.
• Direct-sow root vegetables and leafy salad greens.
  

 Pacific Coast

• Continue harvesting fruits and vegetables.
• Keep the garden clean of spent plants and weeds.
• Gardeners in the southern region should plant spring-flowering bulbs.
• Gardeners in the warmer region can continue the second round of planting for warm-season vegetables and annuals. 
• Continue composting, turning the compost occasionally.
• Add finished compost to the garden.
• Mulch the vegetable and flower garden.
•  Clean hand tools and add a protective layer of oil to prevent rust.

Southwest

• Continue pest control.
• Plant cacti and succulents, trees and shrubs. 
• Plant cool-season annuals.
  
• Continue regular garden maintenance.
• Remove garden debris and compost it.
  
• Turn the compost pile.
• Add finished compost to the garden.
  
• Continue irrigation, checking the system for maximum efficiency.

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Plan Ahead to Protect Your Garden from Cold Weather

 

We know the routine. Working through the seasons addressing immediate needs, we are often caught by surprising weather forecasts.

OMG! It’s gonna drop tonight into the teens or below! Better cover those tender plants, but with what?

Winter is coming. It always does. Don’t let frigid weather catch your garden unprepared. Get ready now.

There are lots of methods for protecting your garden from deep freezes. Here are a few:

Cloches. Garden cloches are bell- or cone-shaped covers that are placed over individual plants for frost protection. Cloches of yesteryear were made of clear glass. Most are now made of materials such as plastic, or frames covered with light-weight plastic sheeting, polypropylene or polyester fabric. The fabrics trap heat while still allowing light and moisture to pass through. Unless they have devices for allowing heat to escape, those of solid materials must be removed before too much heat builds up.

Frost fabrics. Frost fabrics are those light-weight materials as mentioned above for cloches, but purchased in much larger sheets. They work the same way and should be suspended over your plants, avoiding contact with foliage. This is often accomplished by draping the material over hoops or rods and anchoring the sides and ends to the garden soil or sides of raised beds to prevent the fabric from blowing off. These work fine unless a load of snow is forecast. In that case, the structures should have sloping sides to allow snow to slide off.

Greenhouses. These are commercially available in a wide range of sizes, materials and costs, or they can be homemade. You’ll find a host of videos on YouTube and other media sites to assist you with planning and completion.

Straw mulch. Mother Nature is hard to beat. Straw mulch can be laid around your plants – even over some of them – for protection. Mulch traps heat from the soil just as synthetic materials do. When winter is over and spring has sprung, the mulch can be raked aside and allowed to decompose in the garden, helping to retain moisture and enhancing soil fertility.

So, plan now to protect your garden from frigid weather. Gather your materials now and have them ready for use before that fateful weather forecast is announced.

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The Gardener's To-Do List for September

 

Virgo

Helen Hunt Jackson's poem, "September", evokes the images and atmosphere of the month that we welcome so heartily.

        THE golden-rod is yellow;
        The corn is turning brown;
        The trees in apple orchards
        With fruit are bending down.
         
        The gentian's bluest fringes
        Are curling in the sun;
        In dusty pods the milkweed
        Its hidden silk has spun.
         
        The sedges flaunt their harvest,
        In every meadow nook;
        And asters by the brook-side
        Make asters in the brook.
         
        From dewy lanes at morning
        The grapes' sweet odors rise;
        At noon the roads all flutter
        With yellow butterflies.
         
        By all these lovely tokens
        September days are here,
        With summer's best of weather,
        And autumn's best of cheer.
         
        But none of all this beauty
        Which floods the earth and air
        Is unto me the secret
        Which makes September fair.
         
        'Tis a thing which I remember;
        To name it thrills me yet:
        One day of one September
        I never can forget.

This poem is in the public domain.

Now that we're feeling better after a brutal August, let's go garden now. Here are some gardening suggestions for each region.

Northeast Region

• Plant spring-flowering bulbs.
• Dig tender summer bulbs for storage over winter.
  
• Stop fertilizing. You don't want tender new growth to emerge this time of year.
  
• Divide perennials.
  
• Continue to be on the lookout for insect pests. Pick them off, if possible, and destroy them. If pesticides are necessary, consider organic alternatives. Always read label instructions. 
• Plant fall annuals.
  
• Add finished compost to your garden beds.
• Turn your compost pile, again.
• Construct hoop houses and cold-frames to protect plants over winter and keep them producing.
  

Mid-Atlantic

• Plant fall annuals. 
• Plant spring-flowering bulbs.
• Get your vegetable starter plants in the ground.
  
• Stop fertilizing and pruning to avoid encouraging tender growth that could be damaged by the cold.
  
• Remove spent plants and compost them.
• Turn the compost pile.
• Gather materials for hoop houses and cold-frames.

Southeast

• Start winter annuals for transplanting later.
  
• Cut and dry flowers and herbs for later use.
• Order your spring-blooming bulbs, if you haven't already. 
• Harvest fruits and vegetables.
• Stop fertilizing trees and shrubs. 
• Turn your compost pile, again.
  

Midwest

• Plant your spring-flowering bulbs, if you live in the northern parts of the region.
• Plant cool season annuals. 
• Turn your compost pile.
  
• Divide perennials.
• Dig and store tender bulbs, tubers and rhizomes.

Pacific Northwest

• Begin planting shrubs and trees.
• Buy your spring-flowering bulbs.
• Turn the compost pile.
• Plant cool-season annuals.
• Direct-sow root vegetables and leafy salad greens.
  

 Pacific Coast

• Continue harvesting fruits and vegetables.
• Keep the garden clean of spent plants and weeds.
• Gardeners in the southern region should buy spring-flowering bulbs.
• Gardeners in the warmer region can begin a second round of planting for warm-season vegetables and annuals.

Southwest

• Continue pest control.
• Plant cacti and succulents. 
• Refresh annuals, as needed.
• Continue regular garden maintenance.
• Turn the compost pile.
• Continue irrigation, checking the system for maximum efficiency. Don't waste water.

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Go Garden Now and Relieve Your Stress

 

Image by Gerd Altmann from Pixabay

Are you stressed? News reports, family issues, job complaints, financial woes and more can bring us almost to the breaking point. Thankfully, there’s relief from stress just outdoors in our gardens.

Here are a few ways that happens.

Just being out in the sunshine can boost our spirits. Sunlight affects our moods just as dark days do. Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) is a problem for many folks during winter months. Symptoms may include feelings of depression, lack of energy, lethargy, cravings for snacks and sweets, difficulty focusing, anxiety and other feelings it’s hard to put your finger on. Even cloudy days make some people feel this way, but SAD seems to disappear on sunny days.

Sunshine also increases our bodies’ ability to synthesize natural Vitamin D, which is so important for our health and strengthening our bodies’ immune defenses. Add fresh air while being outdoors and you have a great combination.

Gardening puts us in touch with nature – bird songs, flowery scents, gentle breezes – and brings joy.

Can it be the trees that fill the breeze
With rare and magic perfume?

- "Love in Bloom" by Ralph Rainger and Leo Robin. 1934.

Gardening allows us to create beauty. Your own lovely sanctuary becomes a safe haven for contemplation, meditation, and relaxation. The garden provides a place for personal growth.

Lethargy and depression, like weeds, tend to grow if left unattended, but gardening allows us to produce something useful and beautiful, whether we are growing flowers for cutting, tomatoes for eating, or producing any of the many other benefits our gardens can yield.

So, come with me and let’s GoGardenNow.

The Gardener's To-Do List for August

 

 

 

It's August! At this time of year, many garden chores are common to all regions of the United States. Frankly, the list for this month hasn't changed that much from the last, but there are a few different points to consider. Here they are, though this is not an exhaustive list.

For all gardens

• Avoid overheating! Do your garden chores early in the morning or late afternoon. Heat stroke is a very real danger and should not be ignored.
• Drink plenty of fluids.
  
• Get ready for fall!
• Start flower and vegetable seedlings for transplanting to your fall garden.
• Fertilize when needed. Check for yellowing leaves and slowed growth.
• If using synthetic granular fertilizer, water your garden first, apply fertilizer to moist soil, then water again. This will help to incorporate the amendment into the soil and reduce the risk of fertilizer burn.
• Be on the lookout for insect pests. Pick them off, if possible, and destroy them. If pesticides are necessary, consider organic alternatives. Always read label instructions. 
• Heat and humidity can contribute to plant diseases. Check your garden closely for signs of infection and remove affected plants to the compost bin.
  
• Check your irrigation to make sure you are watering wisely and conserving as much as possible. Adjust as needed. This is especially important in arid regions.
• Add finished compost to your garden beds.
• Turn your compost pile, again.

For vegetable gardens

• Plant vegetable seedlings or starter plants for your fall garden.
• Keep pruning your vegetable plants. Tomatoes, cucumbers and other trellised plants will produce better crops if suckers are pinched off and unnecessary growth is removed.
• Pick some types of fruiting vegetables before they fully mature to prevent the plants from ceasing production. This is especially true of cucumbers!
• Remove spent vegetable plants and compost them.

For flower gardens

• Fertilize your roses, again.
• Deadhead flowers to keep the plants producing.
• Prune coleus, stick the cuttings in fresh, moist potting soil and place them in the shade where they can root and be transplanted to your garden or containers.
• Remove spent annuals and compost them.
• Cut and dry flowers and herbs for later use.
• Plant fall-blooming crocus.
• Make plans to order your spring-blooming bulbs.
  

For lawns

• Check oil level, air filter and tire pressure on your lawn mower before every use.
  
• Water deeply only once or twice per week. Frequent shallow watering encourages shallow root penetration and causes the plants to need more frequent watering. Add watering days if the lawn looks stressed.
  
• Watch for fungus diseases. If you can’t identify them, take samples or photos to your nearby Cooperative Extension Office for diagnosis and recommendations.

For shrubs and trees

• Don’t forget to water them DEEPLY during dry spells.
• Watch for insect pests and treat accordingly.
  
• Remove and burn dead wood.
• Avoid pruning after mid-August.
  

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Mazus! A solution plant for moist soil.

 

Mazus reptans

 
Most folks have one – a low, moist spot in the lawn. You’ve been meaning to do something about yours, but haven’t decided what. Here’s an idea. Plant mazus! So long as the soil isn’t under water or bone dry, mazus could be the ground cover for you.

Creeping Mazus (Mazus reptans) is a dense low-growing ground cover with bluish to white flowers that just LOVES moist soil. It grows to about 2” in height. Each plant spreads to about 12” across, but strikes roots as it grows, so for all practical purposes it spreads indefinitely.

Creeping Mazus produces lots of interesting lavender blue or white flowers resting on evergreen to semi-evergreen foliage from spring to summer. It’s cold-hardy to USDA climate zone 4, and tolerates heat into zone 9. Though it thrives in full sun and partial shade, partial shade is recommended particularly in hotter areas.

As long as the soil is consistently moist, mazus will thrive. The soil pH can range from 6.0 to 8.5.

Mazus tolerates some foot traffic, so it’s an ideal lawn substitute. You can plant it under downspouts and any other area where water temporarily collects.

Fertilize in spring to early summer. I think that organic lawn fertilizer is best, but if you choose to spread synthetic fertilizer, use a low-nitrogen 5-5-5 mix. Be careful to avoid fertilizers that might burn the tender green leaves. If you broadcast granular fertilizer with a spreader, be sure to water it in after applying to rinse off the plants.

It ought to go without saying, but I’ll say it anyway. Don’t use a broadleaf weed herbicide on your lawn where mazus is planted.

You might like mazus so well that you want to plant more in other moist areas. You can buy more, or you can propagate your own. Clip off runners about 6” long and stick the lower ends into small plastic pots with some moist premium potting mix. Keep them in the shade until they root, which shouldn’t take more than a few days. The rooted cuttings can be transplanted wherever needed. You can also divide your plants in early spring by slicing across a mature plant with a sharp spade, digging up one half and transplanting it elsewhere.

Growing Creeping Mazus really is that easy. Get started with your new mazus ground cover. 

GoGardenNow!

How to keep snakes out of your garden.

Unless you are fond of snakes as pets, you probably don’t want them in your garden. Never mind that snakes have a beneficial side, i.e. eating vermin and similar pests. Venomous reptiles certainly pose a danger. Even non-poisonous species can give you a fright when encountered unexpectedly.

Here are a few things you can do to discourage them from taking up residence:

Install a “snake-proof” fence. When my father-in-law (of saintéd memory) would sit on my front porch and come up with more things for me to do, installing a snake-proof fence around my property was one of them. He was thinking of his daughter’s and grandchildren’s safety, of course, but I thought it was a little ridiculous. I had over 3,600’ of property line. I didn’t do it then, nor would I now. But a much smaller area – like a kitchen garden – would be considerably easier to enclose. Here’s how:

• Select galvanized or aluminum hardware cloth with small mesh.
• Fencing should be about 48 inches wide. That will allow you to bury about 10 inches or more in the ground and leave the rest above-ground.
• Slant the fencing outward to discourage determined critters from climbing over.

Remove hiding places from the area. Stacked wood, posts, overturned pots and such need to go. I admit my kitchen garden is not so tidy. I carefully turn upside-down pots with a long stick if they’ve been there for a while.

Discourage rodents. If serpents aren’t hiding under things, they’re searching for food. Rats and mice are on their menu. If you have outdoor pets, keep their kibbles stashed away until feeding time. Rodents just LOVE pet food. I once found a rat stash of dry cat food under the hood of my old Chevy Caprice! Well, rodents entice snakes. We won't let that happen again.

Keep weeds down. Doing so will discourage rodents and their reptilian predators.

Consider gardening in tall, raised beds. Many styles are on the market. Some range from 12” to 32” or more in height. The metal ones are much more difficult for snakes to enter for lounging among your bush beans.

Apply a protective barrier of snake repellent. Moth balls and vinegar are reputed to keep them at bay, or you can purchase commercially prepared repellents from your local lawn and garden store. Bear in mind that all snake repellents don’t repel all snakes, but many venomous snakes are most likely to be repulsed. Snake repellents will need to be re-applied.

To allay some of your fears, I suggest learning how to identify snakes native to your region. In the event that you come across a snake in the grass, you’ll know better how to react appropriately.

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