Cymbalaria - A Delightful Discovery

Charming plants often grow in places where you least expect them, like wall crevices or under your feet.  Look carefully and you'll see what I mean.  This is certainly the case with Cymbalaria.  What a delightful discovery it is.

A genus of plants with about 10 species, Cymbalaria is native to southern Europe.  Perhaps you've noticed it while traveling.  It belongs to the Plantaginaceae family, which includes Anthirrinum (snapdragon), Chelone (turtlehead), Digitalis (foxglove), Penstemon (beardtongue), Plantago and such.  All of which have very interesting flower shapes.

Pronounced sim-bul-AR-ee-uh, it means "cymbal-like", referring to the rounded shape of the leaves.  The best known species are Cymbalaria muralis and Cymbalaria aequitriloba.  C. muralis (pronounced mur-AH-liss) means "growing on walls."  The other, C. aequitriloba (pronounced ee-kwee-try-LOH-buh) means "with three equal lobes."  Common names within the genus include Pennywort, Kenilworth Ivy, Climbing Sailor, Coliseum Ivy, Ivy-leaf Toad-Flax and Devil's Ribbon.  Plant names, you see, can be very descriptive, yet leave you wanting to know more.

Cymbalaria grows very low, spreads rapidly and forms a dense carpet.  Height, not including flowers, is usually less than 2".  It spreads 8" or more, depending upon the species.  Small flowers, from white, pink to mauve are produced early to mid-summer, though the blooms may appear in other seasons as well.

Obviously, Cymbalaria is suitable as a ground cover, but it also does well in rock gardens, among stone walls, cascading over terraces, and as an under-planting in container gardens.  For those looking for a lawn-substitute, Cymbalaria aequitriloba is perfect; it tolerates foot traffic very well.  It also grows nicely around stepping stones.

Cymbalaria thrives in partial sun to shade, and in well-drained soils with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.  Drought-tolerance is another of its virtues.  Hardiness varies by species.

Before you plant, take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing.  The results will specify any necessary soil amendments.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 8" to 15" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant Cymbalaria with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between watering.

Cymbalaria is a low-maintenance plant, having no serious pests or diseases.  The greatest causes of failure are watering too much or planting it in an environment that is not to its liking.

Though not well-known, Cymbalaria is a desirable addition to your garden.   Beside the garden path or tucked into stone walls, it will delight you and your garden visitors.

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Creeping Charlie Covers Ground

Glechoma (aka Creeping Charlie) does what ground covers do best; it covers ground.  Native to Europe and parts of Asia, Creeping Charlie was introduced to North America by early settlers who carried it with them for its usefulness.  It was described in the 2nd century A.D. for its medicinal properties and prescribed to reduce swelling.  Saxons used it for preserving and flavoring beer.  Even today, tea is brewed from the herb as a satisfying beverage and source of vitamin C.  Once imported to our shores, it took off, and can be found in nearly every region of the country.

(Being an inquisitive fellow, I often wonder why plants were named so.  In this case, who was Charlie?  Why does this plant bear his name?  And who, for that matter was creeping Jenny?  Suspicious characters, perhaps, whose given names remain infamous?)

The genus, Glechoma, is a relative of mints in the Lamiaceae family.  It used to be included in the Nepeta genus, along with Catmint.  You'll see the family resemblance upon inspection.  Glechoma includes about 12 species, with G. hederacea being most common.  Glechoma (pronounced gle-KOH-muh) refers to its minty-fresh relatives.  Hederacea (pronounced hed-er-AY-see-uh) means "having to do with ivy."  Because it grows along the ground, setting down roots where the nodes touch the ground, it is sometimes called Ground Ivy.  Other common names include Gill-Over-The-Ground, Ale-hoof and Tun-hoof, all of which refer to the shape of the leaf and its use by brewers.  The foliage is evergreen, sometimes variegated, with scalloped edges.  Leaf size is about that of a cat's paw, so it is also known as Cat's Foot.  (Any plant having a long association with man is bound to be called lots of things.)  Flowers, produced mid-spring to mid-summer, are light blue.  Height is usually less than 4".

Glechoma grows very low, spreads very quickly, and forms a dense carpet.  Its growth habit might have earned it the name, Creeping Charlie.  But perhaps "creeping" isn't the correct word.  Runaway-Robin, another common name, may be more accurate.

I have often argued that a weed is simply a plant that is in the wrong place, or for which a person is ignorant of a use.  So glechoma is often considered to be a weed, and invasive at that.  As a medicinal herb may be anti-inflammatory, but for its detractors it's provocative.  For them I suggest that they exhibit some tolerance.  Either don't plant it, plant it in the right place, or brew it.  Live with it.

Glechoma, as you know by now, is an excellent ground cover.  (Who would want a ground cover that doesn't cover ground?)  It performs better in shade than most grasses.  It is more drought-tolerant than many grasses.  It tolerates foot traffic very well.  It doesn't require mowing.  It smells good when you tread on it.  So forget about the grass and grow glechoma.  More good news:  it's deer resistant!

It also looks great in hanging baskets, container gardens, and cascading over the edges of planters and terraces.  For collectors of herbs with historical or medicinal interest, it's a natural.

Glechoma thrives in full sun to full shade in well-drained soils with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.  It is hardy in USDA climate zones 4 through 9.  That just about covers everything.

Before you plant, take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing.  The fee is nominal, but that's because you're already paying for their services with your tax dollars.  (Use it or lose it.)  The results will specify any necessary soil amendments.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 24" to 30" apart. (How economical is that?  Extremely so.) Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant glechoma with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between watering.

This is a low-maintenance plant, having no serious pests or diseases.  The greatest cause of failure is planting it in an environment that is not to its liking, but most are very much to its liking.

With all this in mind, you should know that glechoma will not take over your earth.  You are the boss.  Establish its limits.  Glechoma should work very well for you.

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Fascinating Brass Buttons

My grandmother kept jars of buttons of different materials and sizes in every conceivable color.  They fascinated me.  I would dump them out on her bed to examine them.  The brass buttons with their golden sheen and intricate designs interested me most.

Leptinella, a genus of plants native to parts of Oceania and South America, is as captivating.  The evergreen, fern-like foliage reminds me of designs on some brass buttons, but the button-like flowers may have also inspired the common name - Brass Buttons.

The genus belongs to the Asteraceae family, which includes Coreopsis, Cosmos, Echinacea, Rudbeckia and such.  The name, Leptinella, refers to the slender ovary of the flower - not something most people would take time to notice.

Leptinella grows very low, spreads rapidly and forms a dense carpet.  Height is usually less than 4".  It spreads to 15".  Small flowers are produced early to mid-summer.

It shouldn't surprise that Leptinella is suitable as a ground cover, but it also does well as an under-planting in container gardens.  For gardeners looking for a lawn-substitute, Leptinella is perfect; it tolerates foot traffic very well, as the accompanying photo demonstrates.  It also grows nicely around stepping stones.

Leptinella thrives in partial sun, and in fertile, well-drained to moist soils with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.8.  Hardiness varies by species.

Before you plant, take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing.  The results will specify any soil amendments needed.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 12" to 15" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant Leptinella with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between watering.

Leptinella is a low-maintenance plant, having no serious pests or diseases.  The greatest cause of failure is planting it in an environment that is not to its liking.

Though not well-known, Leptinella is destined to become a favorite ground cover.  Try it.  I'm sure you'll agree.

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Hiding Narcissus Foliage

Narcissus are among the most popular of fall bulbs.  Their cheerful trumpets announce the best of news:  spring is here!  So gardeners tuck them in pots and baskets, planters, bulb and perennial beds, naturalize them in woodlands and lawns.

But for narcissus to return year after year, the leaves must be allowed to remain until they dry in order to build up food reserves in the bulbs.  So unsightly foliage presents a bit of a problem.

If planted in the lawn, there's not much to be done other then let the grass grow until the narcissus leaves brown.  But the ingenious gardener can come up with other planting schemes to hide them.

Here are a few solutions I've observed:

Plant them in ground cover beds.  Liriope, for example, is a fine companion.   It benefits from mowing in late winter, removing worn foliage and allowing room for fresh leaves to sprout.  But if inter-planted with narcissus, the bulbs will sprout and flower before the liriope re-grows.  As the liriope foliage lengthens, it will cover the browning narcissus.

Inter-planting narcissus with daylilies achieves much the same.  The bulbs can also be tucked among pachysandra, vinca, hedera, iris and many other ground cover perennials.

Grow narcissus beneath deciduous shrubs.  Long before the shrubs leaf out, the narcissus will sprout and flower, benefiting from the sunlight allowed through the bare shrubs.  As the shrubs green, the narcissus leaves will be hidden.

Establish drifts of narcissus in natural beds beneath deciduous trees.  Last summer's leaves on the woodland floor make a lovely backdrop to narcissus' spring green.  When the narcissus are spent, they won't be noticeable among the leaf mulch.

Simple ideas such as these provide easy solutions to common aesthetic problems.

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Asiatic Jasmine - Cover Ground With Southern Style

Asiatic Jasmine ( Trachelospermum asiaticum ), is a marvelous ground cover vine that is well-known throughout the South. Trachelospermum asiaticum means "rough seed from Asia", but it doesn't imply that the plant is without style. Evergreen, leathery leaves with a glossy sheen form a dense, luxurious blanket that adds a touch of class to the landscape.

The species is distantly related to plants such as Vinca, Mandevilla, Carissa, Oleander and Amsonia. Confederate Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is a closer relative, and very similar in appearance, but Asiatic Jasmine differs from T. jasminoides by having smaller leaves, being shy to bloom and reluctant to climb.

Asiatic Jasmine is native to Korea and Japan, but is so popular in the southeastern U.S. that you might think it's from around here. In fact, there is a species, commonly called Climbing Dogbane (Trachelospermum difforme), which is native to the U.S.

It must be noted that Asiatic and Confederate jasmines are not among what some consider to be "true jasmine" of the genus Jasminum.

Foliage is about 1" to 2" long. Insignificant star-shaped flowers are about 1" diameter, white to pale yellow. Variegated-leaf forms exist. Mature height as a ground cover is only 6", but vines may extend to 24" when prostrate. If Asiatic Jasmine does take the notion to climb, the vines my grow to 72" or more.

Asiatic Jasmine is cold-hardy in USDA climate zones 7 through 9. It is perfect for full, but will grow in partial- to full shade. Deep shade is not recommended. Plant in average, well-drained soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8. Plants are drought tolerant when established, and heat-loving.

It's very effective as a ground cover in small to large areas. If grown near a walkway, occasional edging will keep it very neat. Otherwise, maintenance needs are few. Deer won't eat it, and you shouldn't either. The milky sap will irritate sensitive tissue, so keep it out of your eyes and nose.

Prepare the planting bed for Trachelospermum asiaticum by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep. Compost may be incorporated into the soil. Fertilizer may be used. If you choose to do so, incorporate 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant container-grown jasmine at 18" to 24" spacing. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the roots. Do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed.

Smaller, bare root plants may be spaced 8" to 15" apart. Plant only as deeply as they were previously grown. A slight change in stem color and texture should be visible, indicating the planting depth. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" deep.

Asiatic Jasmine is one of my favorite ground cover vines. Rich foliage color, glossy sheen and low-maintenance needs make it very popular with many other southern gardeners, as well.

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What Is Companion Planting?

Photo by rawpixel.com from Pexels

Companion planting is a gardening practice that operates on the idea that certain plants benefit one another when grown in close proximity.  The benefits can be one or several, and they fall into the following categories:

Distraction - Some plants are so attractive to certain pests that they draw the pests away from another crop.  The crop that is desirable to the pests is planted as a diversion and considered expendable so that the crop desired by the gardener is left alone.  It's like throwing ears of dried corn on the ground to keep squirrels out of your bird-feeders.

Suppression - Certain plants produce chemicals that repel pests, so they are planted in close proximity to desirable primary crops to ward off intruders.  This is like surrounding your home with an electric fence or poison ivy.

Symbiosis - Some species benefit mutually by the presence of another.  Interplanting pole beans and corn is a traditional example.   Beans fix nitrogen in the soil that benefits corn.  Corn provides support for the beans to grow upon.  It's kind of like a good marriage.

Nursing - Stronger plants may provide some protection to younger, sensitive crops until they can manage for themselves.  Here in the south, homeowners often plant annual rye grass along with centipede grass seed.  The rye grass germinates very quickly and provides some cover and erosion control until the centipede seed germinates several days or weeks later.

Physical Interaction - The physical characteristics of certain species may be mutually beneficial.  For example, tall-growing species may benefit from cooler soil temperatures provided by low-growing species growing below, while the low-growing plants benefit from the shade of the taller.

Diversity - Perhaps you've noticed while driving through farmland fields sown in strips of alternating crops.  Some farmers have learned that planting many acres of a single crop (called mono-cropping) presents pests with a huge, highly-visible target.  More diverse cropping can attract fewer pests.  The same principle holds true in your garden.

Refuge - Crop-eating pests are generally gluttonous creatures and thoughtless, "whose end is perdition, whose god is the belly."  (Philippians 3:19)  Too intent on the next meal, they aren't very mindful of dangers that may lurk.  Beneficial insects devour crop-eaters, and they lurk.  (That's why we call them "beneficial"; if they were bigger than we, they would be called something else.)  By growing plants nearby that provide habitat and hiding places to beneficials, the crop-eaters may meet their doom.

Companion planting requires some planning.  First, you need to know which plants make good companions; not all do.  Beans, for example, don't get along with onions, but tomatos and onions cooperate.  (Beans finally reconcile with onions in the pot, along with marjoram, lemon juice, olive oil and a dash of salt.)

Other important considerations include growing seasons, germination rates, and harvest times.

Companion planting will introduce you to a new way of gardening that can result in better yields, healthier living, and a lot of pleasure.

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Snapshots Of Spring Gardens

 

Having spent far too much time at my computer trying to overcome "writer's block", I grabbed my camera and headed out for a walk.  Though my writing didn't improve, I gained a feeling of vitality that comes from sight, sound, touch, a cold face and runny nose.

(Perhaps a cup of verbena tea would have helped with the "block.")

Follow me to enjoy scenes from that early spring day.

  

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Veronica - Holy Remembrances and Healing Attributes

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A woman of Jerusalem pitied Jesus as he carried his cross to crucifixion, stepped forward and wiped his face with a cloth.  Blood and sweat stained his likeness upon the napkin.  Thus, according to legend, was Christ's true image (vera eikon) preserved.  Other stories identify the woman as Berenike, possibly the woman Jesus healed of a bloody hemorrhage.  It is claimed that Berenike, for some inexplicable reason, carried the cloth to the bedside of the ailing Roman Emperor Tiberius, and cured him with it.  (Tiberius, very unpopular, was later assassinated by smothering.)

Veronica - Hans Memling

Somehow the name, Veronica, evolved from vera eikon or "Berenike" and was bestowed upon the celebrated lady.  Much later, the name was given to an herb.  I have no idea why.  Maybe the plant was discovered on Shrove Tuesday or on July 12, when St. Veronica is remembered.  Perhaps the name was given in honor of the botanist's daughter or wife.

Quite possibly the name was bestowed upon the plant because a very common species native to Europe and western Asia, Veronica officinalis, has been used medicinally to alleviate coughing.  An Experimental History Of The Materia Medica, by William Lewis (c. 1791) records that the herb was used to treat "disorders of the breast both catarrhous and ulcerous, and for purifying the blood and humours."  The use may have preceded the name and inspired the appellation.  I expect we shall never know.

Veronica is a genus of about 500 species native to the Old World as well as the New in both hemispheres.

Depending on the species, Veronica may be hardy from USDA climate zones 3 through 9.  Plant in well-drained soil with exposure to full sun.  Recommended pH ranges from 6.5 to 7.8.

Height varies, but most grow less than 12" tall.  They are excellent for ground cover, perennial borders, rock gardens, container gardens and terraces.  Some are drought-tolerant.  Veronica attracts butterflies, too.  Deer and rabbits tend to leave most species alone.

Prepare the planting bed for Veronica by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 8" deep. Compost may be incorporated into the soil. Synthetic fertilizers may be used. To best determine your soil's needs, take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Service office for testing for a small fee.

Container-grown Veronica can be planted any time you have a trowel handy, but will require monitoring of soil moisture levels during hot weather to avoid plant stress.  Take care not to water too much.  Let soil dry between watering.

Space plants 12" to 24" apart. Keep in mind that my spacing recommendations are approximate. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill.  Press soil around the roots. Do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" to 4" deep. Irrigate thoroughly.

Maintenance is minimal. Veronica plants have few pest and disease problems, but they aren't immune. The best preventative is to maintain vigorous plants in a healthy environment.  Over-watering can be the death of them.

Whether you collect plants for beauty, their history, attractiveness to butterflies or herbal properties, Veronica should be included in your garden.  With so many species to consider, it's likely that you can find one just right for you.

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Verbena On The Mind

Sometimes you come upon plants which are astonishingly interwoven in the fabric of human culture.  The genus, Verbena, is one of them.  The name itself intrigues enough to arouse curiosity.  Verbena is sometimes called Vervain.

Verbena is a genus of about 250 annual and perennial species native to the Americas.  Two are native to Europe and the Mediterranean region.  The name means "sacred foliage", and one of the Old World species, Common Verbena (Verbena officinalis), is most fabled.  Common Verbena is now widely naturalized elsewhere.  Its potent medicinal properties undoubtedly led to its association with the supernatural.

It's used most commonly in the form of herbal tea to treat nervousness and insomnia.  Because of its ability to calm the mind, it has been used to alleviate "writer's block".  (I could use some now.)  Foliage is pleasingly fragrant.  William Faulkner wrote of it in The Odor of Verbena.  (I've wondered whether sipping too much verbena tea might have influenced his sentence style.)

Some American Indians used it to "create god within" and induce prophetic dreams.  Medieval legend held that the leaves were used as a poultice to staunch the wounds of Christ.  Verbena also figures in ancient Egyptian and Greek mythology.

As with most medicinal herbs, verbena has its dangers and should not be used without consulting a physician.

Depending on the species, verbena may be hardy from USDA climate zones 3 through 11.  Plant in well-drained soil with exposure to full sun.  Recommended pH ranges from 6.5 to 7.8; to err on the side of alkalinity is best.

Growth height varies.  Low-profile species are excellent for ground cover, rock gardens, container gardens, hanging baskets and terraces.  Taller species are excellent for perennial gardens, cutting and flower-arranging.  Verbena attracts butterflies, too.

Prepare the planting bed for verbena by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 8" deep. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil. Synthetic fertilizers may be used. To best determine your soil's needs, take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension office for testing for a small fee.

Container-grown verbena can be planted any time you have a trowel handy, but will require monitoring of soil moisture levels during hot weather to avoid plant stress.  Take care not to water too much.  Let soil dry between waterings.

Space plants 12" to 24" apart. Keep in mind that my spacing recommendations are approximate. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill.  Press soil around the roots. Do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" to 4" deep. Irrigate thoroughly.

Maintenance is minimal. Verbena plants have few pest and disease problems, but they aren't immune. Spider mites can cause problems during dry weather, but the little critters hate water. So overhead irrigation discourages them.  Nematodes can attack stems. Removal and destruction of the infected portion is effective. Mildew can infect in areas with poor air circulation during cooler, wetter weather. Sulfur spray is a good treatment. Keep in mind that remedial sprays do not restore damaged tissue; they only stop the progress of the problem. The best preventative is to maintain vigorous plants in a healthy environment.

Ground cover verbena plants benefit from mowing.  Yes...mowing.  Set your mower at 4" height or greater and trim vigorous plants to maintain a dense appearance.  Waiting until they look weak and leggy will not produce good results.

Whether you collect plants for beauty, their history, attractiveness to butterflies, cutting or herbal properties, verbena should be in your garden.  With so many species to consider, it's likely that you can find one just right for you.  I highly recommend it.

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Dancing With The Daisies

In her poem, Daisy Time, Marjorie Lowry Christie Pickthall celebrated these lovely flowers.

See, the grass is full of stars,
Fallen in their brightness;
Hearts they have of shining gold,
Rays of shining whiteness.

Just so do daisies captivate the imaginations of children.  Innocent bouquets, flower chains and circlets are fashioned of them, and their hearts of gold know well whether "he loves" or not.

There are "daisies" among other genera, but the daisies known and loved best are of the genus Leucanthemum (lew-KANTH-ih-mum), meaning "white flower."  The genus contains about 70 species native to Europe, North Africa and parts of Asia.  However, some have been introduced to North America.  Now daisies occur in practically every state and province of the U.S. and Canada.  Plant height is 12" to 48".  Flower color is, of course, white with yellow center.

Buttercups have honeyed hearts,
Bees they love the clover,
But I love the daisies' dance
All the meadow over.

In addition to their imaginative uses as cut flowers, personal adornment, and seers of love, daisies are great for perennial borders and wildflower meadows.  Butterflies and bees love clover, but they adore daisies, too.  So do birds.  More good news:  rabbits do not care to eat them.  Daisies will also make your heart glad because they are easy to care for and drought-tolerant when established.

Daisies thrive in USDA climate zones 3 through 9.  Plant in full sun to partial shade.  Average well-drained garden soil with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.5 is fine, but organic, well-composted soil is perfect for pushing up daisies.  The seeds are best planted in spring.  Plants can be set any time you have a trowel handy.

Before planting, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  They often provide collection bags.  With each soil sample, indicate the type of plant you intend to grow in it.  For the most basic recommendations, you may be charged a nominal fee.  For more information such as micro-nutrient and organic content you may be charged more.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  Adjust soil pH according to soil test results.

Your soil sample report will also include fertilizer recommendations.  Following instructions is always a good bet.  A fine all-around practice is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet area.  Repeat the application every two weeks during the growing season, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

Daisies look great planted with cosmos, coreopsis, coneflower, daylily, black-eye susan, yarrow, salvia and mullein.  Within a couple of seasons they should mature.  Then it's-

Blow, O blow, you happy winds,
Singing summer's praises,
Up the field and down the field
A-dancing with the daisies.

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Resplendent Purple Queen

Plant names often contain emotional suggestions - reasonable enough since plants are named by impassioned beings.  So it is with Wandering Jew.  Known botanically as Tradescantia pallida (pronounced "trad-es-KAN-tee-uh PAL-lid-uh), the genus is named in honor of one or both of the John Tradescants.  Father and son, they were naturalists, botanists, gardeners and plant collectors.  It's very likely that the elder Tradescant (d. 1638) was considered when the genus was named.

Both Tradescants knew tragedy during their careers.  The elder was gardener to the 1st Duke of Buckingham, until the duke's assassination.  He was then employed by Charles I, king of England.  When the elder died, John the younger succeeded his father in service to Charles I and Queen Henrietta Maria until the Queen fled because of England's Civil War.

The genus contains over 70 species,  3 of which are commonly called "Wandering Jew."  These species, including T. pallida, are trailing succulent plants that set down roots where the nodes touch soil.  As the plants progress, they form extensive ground covers.  That habit undoubtedly reminded someone of the Jewish diaspora or a doleful medieval legend, so the name connoting tragedy was bestowed.  The appellation continues to stir passions.

Tradescantia pallida also bears other common names: Purple Heart, Purple Queen.  Both hint at sadness.

Purple Queen is a fairly common plant in warm climates and often grown indoors in colder ones.  It's native to Mexico near the Gulf coast.  The species name, pallida, means pale.  But pale it is not, and there is nothing sad about it.  Succulent trailing stems and thick, juicy, purple leaves store up water for emergencies.  Pink flowers are produced throughout the growing season.

The plant grows quickly up to 18" high in full sun or partial shade and in almost any soil type as long as it is well-drained.  Each plant spreads about 12", but as it roots along the stem, the area covered may be much greater.  Because it is drought-tolerant, T. pallida is well-suited as a ground cover in dry areas, so is ideal for xeriscaping.

A ground cover of Purple Queen is rich in appearance, like a royal robe laid out.  It's also good for container gardening and hanging baskets, especially when accompanied by suitable companion plants of varying heights, textures and complementary colors, such as red, pink, white, yellow and green.

In addition to outdoor uses, it is also great for growing indoors.  In fact, Purple Queen is considered to be exceptionally effective in removing pollutants from the air.  Grow a few plants in a sunny window and breathe easier!

Purple Queen is hardy from USDA climate zone 7 through 11.  Frost may destroy the top-growth, but the plants revive when warm weather returns.  Recommended pH ranges from 5.5 to 7.5.  Space about 12" to 18" apart.

Resplendent, easy to grow and simple to maintain, you'll be quite happy to have Purple Queen in your colorful garden.

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No-Fuss Houseleeks

Drive through the countryside on state and county roads, or better yet, get out and walk.  Enjoy a slower pace and pay closer attention to what folks are growing in their yards.  I bet you'll see Houseleeks, sometimes called Hens-and-Chicks. 

Properly known as Sempervivum (pronounced sem-per-VEE-vum), meaning "always living", you may see them spilling out of flower pots, planters and even from old kettles.  I once saw some growing out of  a pair of old boots filled with potting soil.  My grandmother grew them in common concrete troughs flanking the front steps.  I didn't think much about them then, but I've come to appreciate them since.  I was told when I was a child that houseleeks, if grown close by, were supposed to protect buildings from being struck by lightening, but was assured it was only a tale.

Houseleeks are so common you'd think they're from around here, but they are native to parts of southern and eastern Europe, around the Mediterranean, north Africa and parts of western Asia.  There are about 40 species in the genus, and many more hybrids - some of natural origin.

All of them are perennials with thick, succulent leaves arranged in rosettes.  The leaves store water, so they're very drought tolerant. They grow quickly in full sun and in almost any poor soil type as long as it is slightly acidic or neutral and well-drained.  Sandy or rocky soil is ideal.  The name, "Hens-and-chicks", was undoubtedly bestowed because of the smaller plants that are produced on short side-shoots around the parent plant.  I should mention that "always living" is a bit misleading for the parent plant dies after flowering.  But because "chicks" are produced in abundance, there are always houseleeks to enjoy.  I have no idea why they are called "houseleeks", but I understand that one variety is eaten in Taiwan.

Their ability to thrive in difficult, dry areas is well-known.  Hardiness varies, but some varieties will thrive into USDA climate zones 2 and 3.  Virtually all are hardy from zone 5 through 9.  Houseleeks vary primarily in foliage shape, color and growth height, though the differences are not too great.  Height is usually 6" or less, and they can be expected to spread up to 12" within a few seasons.  They are are often used as edging plants, in rock gardens, and in containers.  I believe they would be very appropriate for "green roof" use.  Houseleek collectors are always on the lookout for new color shades.

Plant houseleeks about 6” to 12" apart.  Pint-sized plants usually produce a few "chicks" within the year.  They may be divided every 3 to 4 years to maintain compactness.  In the spring, you can propagate through stem cutting or division. It’s easy to pull a rosette off the main plant and transplant the small rosette to a new area in the garden.  Let the ground dry between waterings.  Lower growing varieties tend to be dense and choke out weeds, but if soil is fertile, neighboring plants grow faster and obscure the humble houseleeks.

Not only are they drought-tolerant, houseleeks are not bothered by most pests including deer and rabbits.

My grandmother liked "no-fuss" plants and houseleeks fit the bill.  I bet you will enjoy them, too.

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Fair Amaryllis

When two individuals in a family are called by the same name, some confusion is sure to ensue.  Such is the problem with Amaryllis.  The Amaryllidaceae family has two members (genera) called Amaryllis.  For most, any mention of the name brings to mind the ample, star-shaped flower popular around Christmas.  But that is her assumed name.  Her real name is Hippeastrum (pronounced "hippy-ASS-trum"), but with a name like that, it's no wonder that Amaryllis is preferred.  Hippeastrum is native to South America.

Then there is Amaryllis belladonna, the lesser known - a genus with only one species.  She is named for "fair Amaryllis", the shepherdess in Virgil's Eclogues.  More than fair, Amaryllis belladonna literally means "sparkling, beautiful lady."  No hippy-ass-strum is she.

Amaryllis is native to South Africa.  She stands 24" to 36" tall, and bears lovely pink or white flowers on bare, slender stems in late summer before foliage appears.  Thus, she is sometimes called "Naked Lady", "Belladonna Lily" or "August Lily."  A cautionary note:  Amaryllis is beautiful and beguiling, but like so many ornamental plants, is poisonous if ingested.  Keep your lips off.

Though cold-hardy in USDA climate zone 7 through 10, those who live in cooler regions can grow amaryllis successfully in containers and protect over winter.

If planting in the garden, select a site in full sun with richly organic, well-drained soil.  Soil pH should be between 6.1 and 7.8.  The best way to determine if the pH is within that range and contains the proper nutrients is to have the soil tested.  Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you.  You can collect the soil sample yourself.  For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis.  Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

Cultivate the soil to the depth of 12".  Add plenty of well-rotted compost.  Remove weeds.  Soil test results may recommend other soil amendments.  Bone meal is especially beneficial for bulbs.  If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the bulbs.

Plant amaryllis bulbs 12" apart and 5" deep.  The depth is calculated from the bottom of the bulb.  Irrigate if rainfall is inadequate, but take care not to over-water.

Growing amaryllis in containers is not much different than in the garden.  Use the finest potting soil; cheap soil will give poor results.  The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth.  Select containers that will accommodate the bulbs and any other suitable companion plants.  All companion plants should have similar soil and moisture requirements.  Because container gardens can dry quickly, take steps to keep the pots properly watered.  Adding moisture retentive gel to the soil can be beneficial.  Larger containers are not as susceptible to drying.  Tipping over can also be a problem with small containers.

When bloom time is over, let the foliage remain to build reserves in the bulbs for the next growing season.  Continue to irrigate as needed.  You may remove the foliage when it has turned yellow.

Amaryllis partners well with late-flowering asters, coreopsis, daylilies, gypsophila, kniphofia, salvia, mullein and verbena.

Amaryllis is fair, indeed.  Plant a box of them.  Your garden will become all the more enticing with "sparkling, beautiful" ladies habiting there.

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Liatris - The Feather In Your Cap

My neighbor, George, was inspirational.  He, the older man, mentored the younger.  A backyard gardener, he went about it in a big way.  I couldn't begin to match his enthusiasm or energy.  George's sister owned a small floral shop, and many of her flowers were cut fresh from his garden.  Among her favorites was liatris, tall and lively with butterflies, which he grew in abundance.  I learned that it was very easy to grow, so it became one of my favorites, too.

Liatris (ly-AT-riss) spicata (spy-KAY-tuh, meaning to grow "in spikes") is native to eastern North America, and distributed from Quebec to Florida.  Plant height is 18" to 48".  Flower color ranges from purple to pink, and there is a white variety.  The feathery, star-shaped flowers arranged along the spike inspired its common names:  Blazing Star, Gayfeather.  Indeed, it would look jaunty stuck in a hatband.

In addition to its imaginative uses as a cut flower, liatris is grown in perennial borders, wildflower meadows, butterfly and bird gardens (goldfinches love the seeds!) and medicinal plant collections.  Liatris is deer resistant.

Liatris thrives in USDA climate zones 3 through 10.  Plant in full sun to partial shade.  Average well-drained garden soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8 is fine.  The corms can be planted in spring or fall.

Before planting, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  They often provide collection bags.  With each soil sample, indicate the type of plant you intend to grow in it.  For the most basic recommendations, you may be charged a nominal fee.  For more information such as micro-nutrient and organic content you may be charged more.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep. Poorly drained sites can be improved by raising the height of the planting beds.

Your soil sample report will include fertilizer recommendations based upon the results of the test.  Following its instruction should be a good bet.  A fine all-around practice for  is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area.  Repeat the application when shoots appear, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.  Apply 2 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet of garden area every two weeks until flower buds appear.

Plant liatris 5" deep.  Depth is measured to the bottom of the hole.  I recommend planting 6" to 8" apart, though I've read recommendations for closer and more distant spacing.  Cover the corms with soil and add a top-dressing of mulch about 2" deep to suppress weeds.  In climate zones 3 and 4, mulch is recommended in winter to protect liatris from cold.

Liatris looks great planted with cosmos, coreopsis, coneflower, daylily, black-eye susan, yarrow, salvia, shasta daisy and mullein.  I'm confident that you'll enjoy growing liatris.  Tall, lively and carefree, it could be the feather in your cap.  If you've never grown it before, do so this year.

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A Gift Garden: Flowers For Sharing

A young woman had parked her car beside the road to pick flowers growing in a field. Passing her as she waded among the colors, I remembered the black-eyed susans that my mother had sown in our front yard between the house and the river. I was a little boy again waist-deep in a floral tide with a fist full of flowers. The bouquet was my gift to Mom, but I see now that it was also her gift to me.

Picking flowers is such a simple pleasure, and so easily shared with others.  You may carry an armful of glads to a soul mate, invite friends to come and pick their own irises, or cut a basket of dahlias to grace your own home.  Do you think you lack the space?  Of course, you have the space.  Whether you own a few planter boxes or a couple of acres, thoughtfulness sown in abundance is reaped many times over.  A few packs of seeds and boxes of bulbs will get your gift garden off to the right start. 

To have fresh flowers coming along throughout the growing season, plant your garden with bloom time in mind.  Many species are perennial, may be planted once and left to flourish.  Annuals may be planted at intervals through the spring and early summer for a succession of blossoms.  There are quite a few plants that are not cold-hardy in cooler climates, but may be treated as annuals or dug in fall and stored indoors over winter.  Seasons differ by location, and bloom times may extend throughout, but the following suggestions may help.  The lists are by no means complete.

Early Season:  Agapanthus, alchemilla, calla, camassia, delphinium, freesia, fritillaria, galanthus, helleborus, hyacinthoides, iris, ixia, leucojum, mathiolla, narcissus, peony, ranunculus, sparaxis, tulip.

Mid Season:  Achillea, allium, astilbe, tuberous begonia, caladium, coreopsis, cosmos, dahlia, echinacea, eryngium, gladiolus, gomphrena, garden hippeastrum, leucanthemum, liatris, lilium, rudbeckia, scabiosa, zinnia.

Late Season:  Amarcrinum, aster, caladium leaves, calendula, galtonia, helianthus, hydrangea, limonium, lisianthus, moluccella, nigella, panicum, pennisetum, perovskia, polianthes, snapdragon, tithonia.

Make this your year to plant a gift garden filled to overflowing with generosity and flowers for sharing.

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Fancy Leaf Caladiums

For a colorful, tropical appearance in your garden, plant caladiums.  Their flashy, heart- or lance-shaped leaves will brighten the darkest corner of the garden.  Masses of caladiums will compete with any flower bed for a vivid display.

Caladiums are aroids, members of the Araceae family along with anthurium, pothos, monstera, philodendron, calla and jack-in-the-pulpit.  The botanical name is Caladium bicolor or C. x hortulanem.  Common names include "Angel Wings", "Elephant Ears", and "Heart of Jesus."  Many aroids are native to the tropics.  Caladiums are native to South America, particularly the region in and around Brazil.  They are cold-hardy in the United States from USDA climate zone 9 through 11.  Those who live in cooler regions can grow them successfully as annuals in landscape beds and container gardens.  Most gardeners, however, lift and store the corms over winter.

These fancy plants are available in a wide range of color patterns, usually in shades of red, pink, green and white.  Those structures often referred to as flowers are not actually flowers at all, but are modified leaves called spathes.  The actual flowers are much smaller and are surrounded by the spathes.  The spathes, however, are relatively insignificant.
 
Caladiums are grown from corms.  A corm is a thick, bulb-shaped stem or stem base that grows just below the soil surface.  Roots grow from the bottom of the corm.  Shoots and leaves appear at the top.

They are often considered to be useful only in the shade garden.  Certainly, they are perfect for shady areas.  But many cultivars grow very well in full- to partial sun.  If planting in the garden, select a site with richly organic, moist but well-drained soil.  Soil pH should be between 5.6 to 6.5.  The best way to determine if the pH is within that range and contains the proper nutrients for caladiums is to have the soil tested.  Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you.  You can collect the soil sample yourself.  For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis.  Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

Prior to receiving your corms, cultivate the soil to the depth of 8 inches and add plenty of well-rotted compost.  Remove weeds.  Soil test results may recommend other soil amendments.  Follow those instructions.  If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the corms.  The site should be ready for planting when your caladiums arrive.

Bear in mind that all parts of the plant are toxic if eaten and can cause skin irritations and/or allergic reactions in sensitive persons.  I've never experienced such a reaction to caladiums, nor do I know of anyone who has.  But, if you believe you might be susceptible, wear gloves when handling them.

Caladium corms can be planted in spring when soil has warmed to 65 degrees Fahrenheit.  The question I am most often asked is "Which end is up?"  If your caladiums are not yet sprouting, look for small growing points.  These may be encircled by fine fiber:  the remains of last year's leaves.  The bottom may have coarser fibers arranged in no particular direction:  the remains of last year's roots.

Some caladiums, particularly the taller cultivars, may produce too few stems and foliage if planted in shade.  To produce more leaves, they may benefit from "de-eyeing."  To "de-eye" the corm, rub off visible buds or "eyes" with your finger.  This will cause the corm to produce more buds and result in a bushier plant.
Plant the corms 2 inches deep and space them approximately 6 to 8 inches apart.  After planting, water well.  If some of the soil washes away, replace it.  Then water sparingly until growth appears.  With warm soil, roots and shoots should begin to form soon.   A light layer of straw mulch will help to preserve moisture and suppress weeds.

During summer, you may fertilize occasionally.  Apply 2 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet of garden area every two weeks until leaves appear.  Do not allow synthetic fertilizers to come into contact with the plants.  Irrigate if rainfall is inadequate.  Soil should be kept slightly moist.  Weed when necessary, but be careful not to disturb the corms.  Occasional application of a recommended insecticide will keep leaf-eating insects away, though the extent of their damage is usually minimal and cosmetic.  Call your Cooperative Agricultural Extension Office for insecticide recommendations.  Always, follow label instructions.

Growing caladiums in containers is not much different than in the garden.  A 6" pot will accommodate 3 corms nicely.  Use the finest potting soil; cheap soil will give poor results.  The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth.  Select containers that will accommodate the corms and any other suitable companion plants.  All companion plants should have similar soil and moisture requirements.  Because container gardens can dry quickly, take steps to keep the pots properly watered.  Adding moisture retentive gel to the soil can be beneficial.  Larger containers are not as susceptible to drying.  Tipping over can also be a problem with small containers.  Caladiums can grow to 24" in height, though dwarf varieties have been developed.

You may use caladium leaves as you would fresh cut flowers. Cut the leaves at least 3 hours before arranging them. After cutting near the bottom of the stem, immediately set stems in water. They will wilt at first, but will freshen up after a bit.  Arrangements should last for 2 to 3 weeks.

When the growing season is nearing its end, let the foliage remain to build reserves in the corms for the next growing season.  You may remove the foliage when it has turned yellow.

If you live in a climate zone where caladiums are not cold hardy, you may dig and store them until the next growing season.  Do so when temperatures drop to about 65 degrees F.  After digging them, remove foliage, wash the corms and let them dry in the shade.  Pack in peat moss and store in boxes or bags with some ventilation.  Plastic bags with ventilation holes like potatoes come in will do nicely.  Store in a dark place where the temperature can be maintained between 55 and 60 degrees F.  Moisture should not collect in the storage container.  Neither should the corms be allowed to become bone-dry.

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Passion For Horseradish

Anna reg [CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)]

Horseradish is one of those herbs you can love or hate.  The hot, pungent flavor stirs passions one way or another.  The ease with which it can be grown is an attraction for some, but others despise it because it can spread aggressively.  If you love lots of it, or just enjoy growing lots of anything, this herb is for you.

Horseradish may be grown from USDA climate zones 3 through 9.  That covers a large area from International Falls, MN to Fort Pierce, FL, and from East to West coasts.

Choose a planting site in full sun to light shade that you'd like to devote to growing it.  Average, slightly moist, well-drained soil between pH 5.5 and 7.5 is good enough.  To determine your soil pH, you need a soil analysis.  If you don't have a pH test kit, you should contact your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service for help.  For a nominal fee, you can deliver a soil sample to their office for testing.  Call them for instructions.  While you're at it, specify horseradish as the crop to be grown.  They should be able to provide more specific recommendations particular to your region.  As a rule, horseradish should be fertilized with garden fertilizers low in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potash.

Cultivate the soil deeply and amend it according to soil test recommendations.  Long, straight roots require soft, fertile soil without obstructions.  If you have a few roots to plant, you only need to prepare that many planting holes.  If you want to produce large crops of roots, you'll need to prepare a larger area.

For each root, dig a big hole in the cultivated soil about twelve inches in diameter and eight inches deep.  Lay the root at a 45 degree angle against the side.  The top of the root should be about one inch below the soil surface.  Fill the hole with compost.  Water deeply.  As the soil and compost sinks, add more compost on top to compensate.

Two or three applications of fertilizer during the summer may be necessary.  Horseradish is moderately drought tolerant, but large roots will require regular moderate irrigation if rainfall is insufficient.

Flavor is best when harvested in the fall after frost when the foliage has yellowed or fallen.  Youngest roots that are one year old are the most pungent.  The roots over-winter in the soil quite well, so gardeners in the south may harvest them according to need.  Gardeners in the frozen north may want to harvest enough to supply them until spring.

Horseradish can be stored in the same manner as any other root crop.  If stored in plastic bags and refrigerated, roots will stay fresh for several weeks.  Root cellars are ideal.  Grated horseradish can be stored in the freezer for up to six months.

For horseradish recipes, a brief internet search will turn up several.  Horseradish is reputed to possess some therapeutic value.  It is supposed to be high in Vitamin C.  Ancient civilizations considered it to be an effective aphrodisiac.  Freshly peeled horseradish in olive oil has been used to produce a massage oil to treat muscle soreness and chest congestion.  As with any medical claims, view them with some skepticism and always consult a physician.

Perhaps you've seen horseradish in stores, but never gave it much thought.  It's time you tried some.  Plant horseradish in your garden, and explore your passions.

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Never Enough Onions

My father and uncles used to say, quoting Hippocrates, "Let your food be your medicine," and onions certainly fit the saying.  They have been highly regarded for medicinal and culinary purposes for millenia.  As medicine, they've been used to treat many complaints such as balding, asthma, burns, insect bites, and to promote longevity.  As food they've been used in everything from soup to dessert.  Because they are so versatile and easy to grow, you should have some in your garden.  In my opinion, you can never have enough onions.

Onions can be started from seed, seedlings or sets.  Seeds should be started indoors at least two months before last frost.  Seedlings and sets can be obtained from local nurseries or by mail order.  Seedlings are onions that have not begun to set bulbs.  Sets are small onion bulbs.  Planting sets is the easiest and fastest way to a crop.

Onions prefer full sun or at least six hours per day.  Soil should be well drained, moderately fertile and moist, with pH between 6.5 and 8.0.  The pH can be determined with a simple soil test.

Planting time depends upon your climate zone.  Onions are a warm season crop, but are best if grown quickly in relatively cool weather.  Hot temperatures and dry soil often induce the plant to go to seed.  The thick and tough seed stalk emerging from the bulb diminishes the quality of the bulb.  Growers in the Deep South often begin planting as early as December in order to harvest in May.  Farther north, gardeners begin planting in March or April in order to harvest in late summer.  Sort periods of freezing temperature and frost will not damage onions unless the temperature drops below 25 degrees F.  Contact your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service for recommendations for your area and to help you with testing your soil.

Cultivate the soil and add compost or fertilizer according to soil test results and recommendations.  If you add synthetic fertilizer, do so about two weeks before planting.  Remove weeds and debris.

Onions can be planted in double rows or raised beds.  They can also be planted throughout the garden as companion plants for other vegetables, fruits and ornamental plants.  If planting in double rows, plant the sets about four inches apart.  The double rows should be six to ten inches apart.

If planting in raised beds, plant the sets about 4 inches apart in beds no wider than three feet.  Beds wider than three feet are more difficult to reach into and maintain.

Onions can be planted throughout the garden as companion plants, partnering especially well with members of the cabbage family like broccoli and cauliflower, strawberries, tomatoes, beets, lettuce and roses.  Onions don't grow well together with beans and peas.

Cover the onion set with soil but do not cover any green foliage that may emerge.  Sometimes a late frost can cause the bulbs to rise in the soil.  Rain or irrigation can erode soil away from the bulbs.  If this happens, use a garden hoe to bring a bit of soil over the bulbs taking care not to damage them.  If the tops of the bulbs are exposed, they can be damaged by the sun.

Onions need about one inch of water per week.  Irrigate if rainfall is inadequate.  Over-watering can result in soggy soil causing root rot.

Weed as necessary.

Onions can be harvested at various times.  Green onions with immature bulbs can be pulled when the leaves are about seven inches tall.  If some of your onions are crowding because of being planted to closely, thinning them will provide you with some green onions.  You may harvest them anytime they look big enough to you.  You may be able to allow some to grow to full maturity, when the leaves begin to yellow and drop over.  In any case, it is advisable to harvest onions if they are beginning to show signs of going to seed, thereby salvaging them before they become practically unusable.

Onions have few insect pests.  Root maggots and thrips can cause problems.  Root maggots can be prevented by companion planting the onions as described above.  This prevents the maggots from travelling from bulb to bulb.  If planted in rows or raised beds, consider covering the onions with light and permeable row covers manufactured specifically for crop protection.  Row covers can also prevent birds from damaging the bulbs.  Thrips can be controlled with insecticidal soap or insecticides labeled for onions.

Mature onion bulbs can be stored for future use by cutting off the yellowed foliage and laying the bulbs on sheets of newspaper for about three weeks in a warm, dry place.  This allows the papery covering of the bulbs, called tunics, to dry.  When the tunics are dry, the bulbs can be kept in net bags for several weeks.

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Serving Up Rhubarb

Photo by Evan Amos

Rhubarb is a favorite for many folks, but to others it's practically unknown.  Garrison Keillor, creator of A Prairie Home Companion radio show, sang his famous lines, "Mama's little baby loves rhubarb, rhubarb, Beebopareebop Rhubarb Pie", and made us feel nostalgic for it even if we'd never eaten it.

Rhubarb has an interesting history.  Native to Asia, it has been used as medicine there for a very long time.  The plants grew wild along the Volga River.  It is said that some early Americans consumed the leaves, but paid for it with their lives because they didn't know that the leaves and roots of rhubarb were toxic to humans.  How they came by it is unclear.  Only the leaf stem or petiole is edible.  Not surprisingly the use of rhubarb for culinary purposes was apparently abandoned until someone discovered many years later that they had eaten the wrong part of the plant.  On the other hand, historians tell us that rhubarb was so highly regarded as medicine by Chinese that they considered it too valuable to share with the common rabble in Europe.

Rhubarb is a versatile and beautiful perennial plant that does well in ornamental and vegetable gardens from USDA climate zone 8 and upward.  The large leaves are bold in appearance, and the colorful petioles (red, pink or light green) are very attractive.  Even if not eaten, it would be worth growing in the landscape or containers for beauty alone.

Choose a site in full sun with rich, well-drained soil where the plants can be left to grow for decades.  In the south, rhubarb can suffer from the sun's heat, so planting in partial shade is helpful.  Soil pH should range between 5.8 and 6.8.  I recommend taking a soil sample to your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service for testing.  Call them first for instructions and fees.

When the soil has warmed and danger of frost is past, cultivate the soil deeply and well.  Add lots of composted organic matter and any other soil amendments that the soil test result indicates.  Once planted, you won't have an opportunity to cultivate the soil so well again.  Do it right the first time.

Though the roots you purchase commercially may seem small (usually no more than one and a half inches long), they will grow large if well-maintained.  Plant them about three feet apart.  Dig a hole large enough in the soft soil to accommodate the roots without crowding.  You may make a cone-shaped mound in the bottom of the hole and spread the roots over it.  The buds, or "eyes", should be two to four inches below the soil surface.  Gently press the soil over the plant and water well, taking care not to wash the soil away from the crown.

When new growth appears, begin adding composted mulch or straw around the plants.  This will help to conserve moisture, prevent erosion and suppress weeds.  Weeds compete for nutrients and moisture.   Even without weed competition rhubarb needs watering, so provide at least one inch of water per week during the growing season if rainfall is not adequate.  Remove seed stalks when they appear for the maturing seeds diminish the vitality of the plants.

When the plants die back in the fall, gardeners in the north may add composted mulch.  Southern gardeners, however, should remove mulch because rhubarb benefits from cold winter temperatures.  Composted mulch should be replaced in the spring.  Repeat the process every year.

Resist the temptation to sample your rhubarb the first year.  The plants need to become well-established.  They are prevented from doing so if the leaves and stalks are removed.  You may harvest a few petioles the second year if you must.  Take more the next year and thereafter.  Petioles are ready for harvesting when they are about three fourths of an inch to one inch wide.  The amount you may harvest depends upon the vigor of the plants.  If the plants are not vigorous, removing too many leaves will weaken the plants further.  So it's very important to maintain healthy plants.

Rhubarb is not seriously bothered by insects and diseases, though aphids, borers and beetles may appear.  Insecticidal soap is effective enough against aphids.  Beetles may be removed by hand.  Little can be done about borers, but they are rare.  As with many species, selected companion plants can repel insects.  Rhubarb does well when grown near garlic and onions.  They also respond well when grown near roses and columbine.

Leaf spot may occasionally appear, but it can be controlled by gathering and destroying dead foliage in the fall.  If the planting site is not well-drained, crown and root rot may cause a problem.  But this can be prevented by choosing a proper site in the beginning.

Rhubarb has a pleasingly tart taste, especially when sweetened.  It should be noted that rhubarb became more popular in North America when sugar became readily available and cheap.

Its called "pie plant" for good reason as it ends up in pies more often than not.  But rhubarb can also be used in breads and other baked goods, drinks, and as vegetable entrees or side dishes along with various meats.  Rhubarb can be canned or frozen for later use.  Remember:  only the leaf petiole is edible; the leaves and roots contain oxalic acid, so are toxic to humans.

Give rhubarb a try.  You'll enjoy its beauty, flavor, and the pleasure of growing a bit of history in your own backyard.

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