Dancing With The Daisies

In her poem, Daisy Time, Marjorie Lowry Christie Pickthall celebrated these lovely flowers.

See, the grass is full of stars,
Fallen in their brightness;
Hearts they have of shining gold,
Rays of shining whiteness.

Just so do daisies captivate the imaginations of children.  Innocent bouquets, flower chains and circlets are fashioned of them, and their hearts of gold know well whether "he loves" or not.

There are "daisies" among other genera, but the daisies known and loved best are of the genus Leucanthemum (lew-KANTH-ih-mum), meaning "white flower."  The genus contains about 70 species native to Europe, North Africa and parts of Asia.  However, some have been introduced to North America.  Now daisies occur in practically every state and province of the U.S. and Canada.  Plant height is 12" to 48".  Flower color is, of course, white with yellow center.

Buttercups have honeyed hearts,
Bees they love the clover,
But I love the daisies' dance
All the meadow over.

In addition to their imaginative uses as cut flowers, personal adornment, and seers of love, daisies are great for perennial borders and wildflower meadows.  Butterflies and bees love clover, but they adore daisies, too.  So do birds.  More good news:  rabbits do not care to eat them.  Daisies will also make your heart glad because they are easy to care for and drought-tolerant when established.

Daisies thrive in USDA climate zones 3 through 9.  Plant in full sun to partial shade.  Average well-drained garden soil with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.5 is fine, but organic, well-composted soil is perfect for pushing up daisies.  The seeds are best planted in spring.  Plants can be set any time you have a trowel handy.

Before planting, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  They often provide collection bags.  With each soil sample, indicate the type of plant you intend to grow in it.  For the most basic recommendations, you may be charged a nominal fee.  For more information such as micro-nutrient and organic content you may be charged more.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  Adjust soil pH according to soil test results.

Your soil sample report will also include fertilizer recommendations.  Following instructions is always a good bet.  A fine all-around practice is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet area.  Repeat the application every two weeks during the growing season, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

Daisies look great planted with cosmos, coreopsis, coneflower, daylily, black-eye susan, yarrow, salvia and mullein.  Within a couple of seasons they should mature.  Then it's-

Blow, O blow, you happy winds,
Singing summer's praises,
Up the field and down the field
A-dancing with the daisies.

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Resplendent Purple Queen

Plant names often contain emotional suggestions - reasonable enough since plants are named by impassioned beings.  So it is with Wandering Jew.  Known botanically as Tradescantia pallida (pronounced "trad-es-KAN-tee-uh PAL-lid-uh), the genus is named in honor of one or both of the John Tradescants.  Father and son, they were naturalists, botanists, gardeners and plant collectors.  It's very likely that the elder Tradescant (d. 1638) was considered when the genus was named.

Both Tradescants knew tragedy during their careers.  The elder was gardener to the 1st Duke of Buckingham, until the duke's assassination.  He was then employed by Charles I, king of England.  When the elder died, John the younger succeeded his father in service to Charles I and Queen Henrietta Maria until the Queen fled because of England's Civil War.

The genus contains over 70 species,  3 of which are commonly called "Wandering Jew."  These species, including T. pallida, are trailing succulent plants that set down roots where the nodes touch soil.  As the plants progress, they form extensive ground covers.  That habit undoubtedly reminded someone of the Jewish diaspora or a doleful medieval legend, so the name connoting tragedy was bestowed.  The appellation continues to stir passions.

Tradescantia pallida also bears other common names: Purple Heart, Purple Queen.  Both hint at sadness.

Purple Queen is a fairly common plant in warm climates and often grown indoors in colder ones.  It's native to Mexico near the Gulf coast.  The species name, pallida, means pale.  But pale it is not, and there is nothing sad about it.  Succulent trailing stems and thick, juicy, purple leaves store up water for emergencies.  Pink flowers are produced throughout the growing season.

The plant grows quickly up to 18" high in full sun or partial shade and in almost any soil type as long as it is well-drained.  Each plant spreads about 12", but as it roots along the stem, the area covered may be much greater.  Because it is drought-tolerant, T. pallida is well-suited as a ground cover in dry areas, so is ideal for xeriscaping.

A ground cover of Purple Queen is rich in appearance, like a royal robe laid out.  It's also good for container gardening and hanging baskets, especially when accompanied by suitable companion plants of varying heights, textures and complementary colors, such as red, pink, white, yellow and green.

In addition to outdoor uses, it is also great for growing indoors.  In fact, Purple Queen is considered to be exceptionally effective in removing pollutants from the air.  Grow a few plants in a sunny window and breathe easier!

Purple Queen is hardy from USDA climate zone 7 through 11.  Frost may destroy the top-growth, but the plants revive when warm weather returns.  Recommended pH ranges from 5.5 to 7.5.  Space about 12" to 18" apart.

Resplendent, easy to grow and simple to maintain, you'll be quite happy to have Purple Queen in your colorful garden.

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No-Fuss Houseleeks

Drive through the countryside on state and county roads, or better yet, get out and walk.  Enjoy a slower pace and pay closer attention to what folks are growing in their yards.  I bet you'll see Houseleeks, sometimes called Hens-and-Chicks. 

Properly known as Sempervivum (pronounced sem-per-VEE-vum), meaning "always living", you may see them spilling out of flower pots, planters and even from old kettles.  I once saw some growing out of  a pair of old boots filled with potting soil.  My grandmother grew them in common concrete troughs flanking the front steps.  I didn't think much about them then, but I've come to appreciate them since.  I was told when I was a child that houseleeks, if grown close by, were supposed to protect buildings from being struck by lightening, but was assured it was only a tale.

Houseleeks are so common you'd think they're from around here, but they are native to parts of southern and eastern Europe, around the Mediterranean, north Africa and parts of western Asia.  There are about 40 species in the genus, and many more hybrids - some of natural origin.

All of them are perennials with thick, succulent leaves arranged in rosettes.  The leaves store water, so they're very drought tolerant. They grow quickly in full sun and in almost any poor soil type as long as it is slightly acidic or neutral and well-drained.  Sandy or rocky soil is ideal.  The name, "Hens-and-chicks", was undoubtedly bestowed because of the smaller plants that are produced on short side-shoots around the parent plant.  I should mention that "always living" is a bit misleading for the parent plant dies after flowering.  But because "chicks" are produced in abundance, there are always houseleeks to enjoy.  I have no idea why they are called "houseleeks", but I understand that one variety is eaten in Taiwan.

Their ability to thrive in difficult, dry areas is well-known.  Hardiness varies, but some varieties will thrive into USDA climate zones 2 and 3.  Virtually all are hardy from zone 5 through 9.  Houseleeks vary primarily in foliage shape, color and growth height, though the differences are not too great.  Height is usually 6" or less, and they can be expected to spread up to 12" within a few seasons.  They are are often used as edging plants, in rock gardens, and in containers.  I believe they would be very appropriate for "green roof" use.  Houseleek collectors are always on the lookout for new color shades.

Plant houseleeks about 6” to 12" apart.  Pint-sized plants usually produce a few "chicks" within the year.  They may be divided every 3 to 4 years to maintain compactness.  In the spring, you can propagate through stem cutting or division. It’s easy to pull a rosette off the main plant and transplant the small rosette to a new area in the garden.  Let the ground dry between waterings.  Lower growing varieties tend to be dense and choke out weeds, but if soil is fertile, neighboring plants grow faster and obscure the humble houseleeks.

Not only are they drought-tolerant, houseleeks are not bothered by most pests including deer and rabbits.

My grandmother liked "no-fuss" plants and houseleeks fit the bill.  I bet you will enjoy them, too.

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Fair Amaryllis

When two individuals in a family are called by the same name, some confusion is sure to ensue.  Such is the problem with Amaryllis.  The Amaryllidaceae family has two members (genera) called Amaryllis.  For most, any mention of the name brings to mind the ample, star-shaped flower popular around Christmas.  But that is her assumed name.  Her real name is Hippeastrum (pronounced "hippy-ASS-trum"), but with a name like that, it's no wonder that Amaryllis is preferred.  Hippeastrum is native to South America.

Then there is Amaryllis belladonna, the lesser known - a genus with only one species.  She is named for "fair Amaryllis", the shepherdess in Virgil's Eclogues.  More than fair, Amaryllis belladonna literally means "sparkling, beautiful lady."  No hippy-ass-strum is she.

Amaryllis is native to South Africa.  She stands 24" to 36" tall, and bears lovely pink or white flowers on bare, slender stems in late summer before foliage appears.  Thus, she is sometimes called "Naked Lady", "Belladonna Lily" or "August Lily."  A cautionary note:  Amaryllis is beautiful and beguiling, but like so many ornamental plants, is poisonous if ingested.  Keep your lips off.

Though cold-hardy in USDA climate zone 7 through 10, those who live in cooler regions can grow amaryllis successfully in containers and protect over winter.

If planting in the garden, select a site in full sun with richly organic, well-drained soil.  Soil pH should be between 6.1 and 7.8.  The best way to determine if the pH is within that range and contains the proper nutrients is to have the soil tested.  Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you.  You can collect the soil sample yourself.  For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis.  Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

Cultivate the soil to the depth of 12".  Add plenty of well-rotted compost.  Remove weeds.  Soil test results may recommend other soil amendments.  Bone meal is especially beneficial for bulbs.  If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the bulbs.

Plant amaryllis bulbs 12" apart and 5" deep.  The depth is calculated from the bottom of the bulb.  Irrigate if rainfall is inadequate, but take care not to over-water.

Growing amaryllis in containers is not much different than in the garden.  Use the finest potting soil; cheap soil will give poor results.  The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth.  Select containers that will accommodate the bulbs and any other suitable companion plants.  All companion plants should have similar soil and moisture requirements.  Because container gardens can dry quickly, take steps to keep the pots properly watered.  Adding moisture retentive gel to the soil can be beneficial.  Larger containers are not as susceptible to drying.  Tipping over can also be a problem with small containers.

When bloom time is over, let the foliage remain to build reserves in the bulbs for the next growing season.  Continue to irrigate as needed.  You may remove the foliage when it has turned yellow.

Amaryllis partners well with late-flowering asters, coreopsis, daylilies, gypsophila, kniphofia, salvia, mullein and verbena.

Amaryllis is fair, indeed.  Plant a box of them.  Your garden will become all the more enticing with "sparkling, beautiful" ladies habiting there.

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Liatris - The Feather In Your Cap

My neighbor, George, was inspirational.  He, the older man, mentored the younger.  A backyard gardener, he went about it in a big way.  I couldn't begin to match his enthusiasm or energy.  George's sister owned a small floral shop, and many of her flowers were cut fresh from his garden.  Among her favorites was liatris, tall and lively with butterflies, which he grew in abundance.  I learned that it was very easy to grow, so it became one of my favorites, too.

Liatris (ly-AT-riss) spicata (spy-KAY-tuh, meaning to grow "in spikes") is native to eastern North America, and distributed from Quebec to Florida.  Plant height is 18" to 48".  Flower color ranges from purple to pink, and there is a white variety.  The feathery, star-shaped flowers arranged along the spike inspired its common names:  Blazing Star, Gayfeather.  Indeed, it would look jaunty stuck in a hatband.

In addition to its imaginative uses as a cut flower, liatris is grown in perennial borders, wildflower meadows, butterfly and bird gardens (goldfinches love the seeds!) and medicinal plant collections.  Liatris is deer resistant.

Liatris thrives in USDA climate zones 3 through 10.  Plant in full sun to partial shade.  Average well-drained garden soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8 is fine.  The corms can be planted in spring or fall.

Before planting, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  They often provide collection bags.  With each soil sample, indicate the type of plant you intend to grow in it.  For the most basic recommendations, you may be charged a nominal fee.  For more information such as micro-nutrient and organic content you may be charged more.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep. Poorly drained sites can be improved by raising the height of the planting beds.

Your soil sample report will include fertilizer recommendations based upon the results of the test.  Following its instruction should be a good bet.  A fine all-around practice for  is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area.  Repeat the application when shoots appear, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.  Apply 2 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet of garden area every two weeks until flower buds appear.

Plant liatris 5" deep.  Depth is measured to the bottom of the hole.  I recommend planting 6" to 8" apart, though I've read recommendations for closer and more distant spacing.  Cover the corms with soil and add a top-dressing of mulch about 2" deep to suppress weeds.  In climate zones 3 and 4, mulch is recommended in winter to protect liatris from cold.

Liatris looks great planted with cosmos, coreopsis, coneflower, daylily, black-eye susan, yarrow, salvia, shasta daisy and mullein.  I'm confident that you'll enjoy growing liatris.  Tall, lively and carefree, it could be the feather in your cap.  If you've never grown it before, do so this year.

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A Gift Garden: Flowers For Sharing

A young woman had parked her car beside the road to pick flowers growing in a field. Passing her as she waded among the colors, I remembered the black-eyed susans that my mother had sown in our front yard between the house and the river. I was a little boy again waist-deep in a floral tide with a fist full of flowers. The bouquet was my gift to Mom, but I see now that it was also her gift to me.

Picking flowers is such a simple pleasure, and so easily shared with others.  You may carry an armful of glads to a soul mate, invite friends to come and pick their own irises, or cut a basket of dahlias to grace your own home.  Do you think you lack the space?  Of course, you have the space.  Whether you own a few planter boxes or a couple of acres, thoughtfulness sown in abundance is reaped many times over.  A few packs of seeds and boxes of bulbs will get your gift garden off to the right start. 

To have fresh flowers coming along throughout the growing season, plant your garden with bloom time in mind.  Many species are perennial, may be planted once and left to flourish.  Annuals may be planted at intervals through the spring and early summer for a succession of blossoms.  There are quite a few plants that are not cold-hardy in cooler climates, but may be treated as annuals or dug in fall and stored indoors over winter.  Seasons differ by location, and bloom times may extend throughout, but the following suggestions may help.  The lists are by no means complete.

Early Season:  Agapanthus, alchemilla, calla, camassia, delphinium, freesia, fritillaria, galanthus, helleborus, hyacinthoides, iris, ixia, leucojum, mathiolla, narcissus, peony, ranunculus, sparaxis, tulip.

Mid Season:  Achillea, allium, astilbe, tuberous begonia, caladium, coreopsis, cosmos, dahlia, echinacea, eryngium, gladiolus, gomphrena, garden hippeastrum, leucanthemum, liatris, lilium, rudbeckia, scabiosa, zinnia.

Late Season:  Amarcrinum, aster, caladium leaves, calendula, galtonia, helianthus, hydrangea, limonium, lisianthus, moluccella, nigella, panicum, pennisetum, perovskia, polianthes, snapdragon, tithonia.

Make this your year to plant a gift garden filled to overflowing with generosity and flowers for sharing.

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Fancy Leaf Caladiums

For a colorful, tropical appearance in your garden, plant caladiums.  Their flashy, heart- or lance-shaped leaves will brighten the darkest corner of the garden.  Masses of caladiums will compete with any flower bed for a vivid display.

Caladiums are aroids, members of the Araceae family along with anthurium, pothos, monstera, philodendron, calla and jack-in-the-pulpit.  The botanical name is Caladium bicolor or C. x hortulanem.  Common names include "Angel Wings", "Elephant Ears", and "Heart of Jesus."  Many aroids are native to the tropics.  Caladiums are native to South America, particularly the region in and around Brazil.  They are cold-hardy in the United States from USDA climate zone 9 through 11.  Those who live in cooler regions can grow them successfully as annuals in landscape beds and container gardens.  Most gardeners, however, lift and store the corms over winter.

These fancy plants are available in a wide range of color patterns, usually in shades of red, pink, green and white.  Those structures often referred to as flowers are not actually flowers at all, but are modified leaves called spathes.  The actual flowers are much smaller and are surrounded by the spathes.  The spathes, however, are relatively insignificant.
 
Caladiums are grown from corms.  A corm is a thick, bulb-shaped stem or stem base that grows just below the soil surface.  Roots grow from the bottom of the corm.  Shoots and leaves appear at the top.

They are often considered to be useful only in the shade garden.  Certainly, they are perfect for shady areas.  But many cultivars grow very well in full- to partial sun.  If planting in the garden, select a site with richly organic, moist but well-drained soil.  Soil pH should be between 5.6 to 6.5.  The best way to determine if the pH is within that range and contains the proper nutrients for caladiums is to have the soil tested.  Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you.  You can collect the soil sample yourself.  For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis.  Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

Prior to receiving your corms, cultivate the soil to the depth of 8 inches and add plenty of well-rotted compost.  Remove weeds.  Soil test results may recommend other soil amendments.  Follow those instructions.  If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the corms.  The site should be ready for planting when your caladiums arrive.

Bear in mind that all parts of the plant are toxic if eaten and can cause skin irritations and/or allergic reactions in sensitive persons.  I've never experienced such a reaction to caladiums, nor do I know of anyone who has.  But, if you believe you might be susceptible, wear gloves when handling them.

Caladium corms can be planted in spring when soil has warmed to 65 degrees Fahrenheit.  The question I am most often asked is "Which end is up?"  If your caladiums are not yet sprouting, look for small growing points.  These may be encircled by fine fiber:  the remains of last year's leaves.  The bottom may have coarser fibers arranged in no particular direction:  the remains of last year's roots.

Some caladiums, particularly the taller cultivars, may produce too few stems and foliage if planted in shade.  To produce more leaves, they may benefit from "de-eyeing."  To "de-eye" the corm, rub off visible buds or "eyes" with your finger.  This will cause the corm to produce more buds and result in a bushier plant.
Plant the corms 2 inches deep and space them approximately 6 to 8 inches apart.  After planting, water well.  If some of the soil washes away, replace it.  Then water sparingly until growth appears.  With warm soil, roots and shoots should begin to form soon.   A light layer of straw mulch will help to preserve moisture and suppress weeds.

During summer, you may fertilize occasionally.  Apply 2 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet of garden area every two weeks until leaves appear.  Do not allow synthetic fertilizers to come into contact with the plants.  Irrigate if rainfall is inadequate.  Soil should be kept slightly moist.  Weed when necessary, but be careful not to disturb the corms.  Occasional application of a recommended insecticide will keep leaf-eating insects away, though the extent of their damage is usually minimal and cosmetic.  Call your Cooperative Agricultural Extension Office for insecticide recommendations.  Always, follow label instructions.

Growing caladiums in containers is not much different than in the garden.  A 6" pot will accommodate 3 corms nicely.  Use the finest potting soil; cheap soil will give poor results.  The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth.  Select containers that will accommodate the corms and any other suitable companion plants.  All companion plants should have similar soil and moisture requirements.  Because container gardens can dry quickly, take steps to keep the pots properly watered.  Adding moisture retentive gel to the soil can be beneficial.  Larger containers are not as susceptible to drying.  Tipping over can also be a problem with small containers.  Caladiums can grow to 24" in height, though dwarf varieties have been developed.

You may use caladium leaves as you would fresh cut flowers. Cut the leaves at least 3 hours before arranging them. After cutting near the bottom of the stem, immediately set stems in water. They will wilt at first, but will freshen up after a bit.  Arrangements should last for 2 to 3 weeks.

When the growing season is nearing its end, let the foliage remain to build reserves in the corms for the next growing season.  You may remove the foliage when it has turned yellow.

If you live in a climate zone where caladiums are not cold hardy, you may dig and store them until the next growing season.  Do so when temperatures drop to about 65 degrees F.  After digging them, remove foliage, wash the corms and let them dry in the shade.  Pack in peat moss and store in boxes or bags with some ventilation.  Plastic bags with ventilation holes like potatoes come in will do nicely.  Store in a dark place where the temperature can be maintained between 55 and 60 degrees F.  Moisture should not collect in the storage container.  Neither should the corms be allowed to become bone-dry.

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Passion For Horseradish

Anna reg [CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)]

Horseradish is one of those herbs you can love or hate.  The hot, pungent flavor stirs passions one way or another.  The ease with which it can be grown is an attraction for some, but others despise it because it can spread aggressively.  If you love lots of it, or just enjoy growing lots of anything, this herb is for you.

Horseradish may be grown from USDA climate zones 3 through 9.  That covers a large area from International Falls, MN to Fort Pierce, FL, and from East to West coasts.

Choose a planting site in full sun to light shade that you'd like to devote to growing it.  Average, slightly moist, well-drained soil between pH 5.5 and 7.5 is good enough.  To determine your soil pH, you need a soil analysis.  If you don't have a pH test kit, you should contact your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service for help.  For a nominal fee, you can deliver a soil sample to their office for testing.  Call them for instructions.  While you're at it, specify horseradish as the crop to be grown.  They should be able to provide more specific recommendations particular to your region.  As a rule, horseradish should be fertilized with garden fertilizers low in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potash.

Cultivate the soil deeply and amend it according to soil test recommendations.  Long, straight roots require soft, fertile soil without obstructions.  If you have a few roots to plant, you only need to prepare that many planting holes.  If you want to produce large crops of roots, you'll need to prepare a larger area.

For each root, dig a big hole in the cultivated soil about twelve inches in diameter and eight inches deep.  Lay the root at a 45 degree angle against the side.  The top of the root should be about one inch below the soil surface.  Fill the hole with compost.  Water deeply.  As the soil and compost sinks, add more compost on top to compensate.

Two or three applications of fertilizer during the summer may be necessary.  Horseradish is moderately drought tolerant, but large roots will require regular moderate irrigation if rainfall is insufficient.

Flavor is best when harvested in the fall after frost when the foliage has yellowed or fallen.  Youngest roots that are one year old are the most pungent.  The roots over-winter in the soil quite well, so gardeners in the south may harvest them according to need.  Gardeners in the frozen north may want to harvest enough to supply them until spring.

Horseradish can be stored in the same manner as any other root crop.  If stored in plastic bags and refrigerated, roots will stay fresh for several weeks.  Root cellars are ideal.  Grated horseradish can be stored in the freezer for up to six months.

For horseradish recipes, a brief internet search will turn up several.  Horseradish is reputed to possess some therapeutic value.  It is supposed to be high in Vitamin C.  Ancient civilizations considered it to be an effective aphrodisiac.  Freshly peeled horseradish in olive oil has been used to produce a massage oil to treat muscle soreness and chest congestion.  As with any medical claims, view them with some skepticism and always consult a physician.

Perhaps you've seen horseradish in stores, but never gave it much thought.  It's time you tried some.  Plant horseradish in your garden, and explore your passions.

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Never Enough Onions

My father and uncles used to say, quoting Hippocrates, "Let your food be your medicine," and onions certainly fit the saying.  They have been highly regarded for medicinal and culinary purposes for millenia.  As medicine, they've been used to treat many complaints such as balding, asthma, burns, insect bites, and to promote longevity.  As food they've been used in everything from soup to dessert.  Because they are so versatile and easy to grow, you should have some in your garden.  In my opinion, you can never have enough onions.

Onions can be started from seed, seedlings or sets.  Seeds should be started indoors at least two months before last frost.  Seedlings and sets can be obtained from local nurseries or by mail order.  Seedlings are onions that have not begun to set bulbs.  Sets are small onion bulbs.  Planting sets is the easiest and fastest way to a crop.

Onions prefer full sun or at least six hours per day.  Soil should be well drained, moderately fertile and moist, with pH between 6.5 and 8.0.  The pH can be determined with a simple soil test.

Planting time depends upon your climate zone.  Onions are a warm season crop, but are best if grown quickly in relatively cool weather.  Hot temperatures and dry soil often induce the plant to go to seed.  The thick and tough seed stalk emerging from the bulb diminishes the quality of the bulb.  Growers in the Deep South often begin planting as early as December in order to harvest in May.  Farther north, gardeners begin planting in March or April in order to harvest in late summer.  Sort periods of freezing temperature and frost will not damage onions unless the temperature drops below 25 degrees F.  Contact your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service for recommendations for your area and to help you with testing your soil.

Cultivate the soil and add compost or fertilizer according to soil test results and recommendations.  If you add synthetic fertilizer, do so about two weeks before planting.  Remove weeds and debris.

Onions can be planted in double rows or raised beds.  They can also be planted throughout the garden as companion plants for other vegetables, fruits and ornamental plants.  If planting in double rows, plant the sets about four inches apart.  The double rows should be six to ten inches apart.

If planting in raised beds, plant the sets about 4 inches apart in beds no wider than three feet.  Beds wider than three feet are more difficult to reach into and maintain.

Onions can be planted throughout the garden as companion plants, partnering especially well with members of the cabbage family like broccoli and cauliflower, strawberries, tomatoes, beets, lettuce and roses.  Onions don't grow well together with beans and peas.

Cover the onion set with soil but do not cover any green foliage that may emerge.  Sometimes a late frost can cause the bulbs to rise in the soil.  Rain or irrigation can erode soil away from the bulbs.  If this happens, use a garden hoe to bring a bit of soil over the bulbs taking care not to damage them.  If the tops of the bulbs are exposed, they can be damaged by the sun.

Onions need about one inch of water per week.  Irrigate if rainfall is inadequate.  Over-watering can result in soggy soil causing root rot.

Weed as necessary.

Onions can be harvested at various times.  Green onions with immature bulbs can be pulled when the leaves are about seven inches tall.  If some of your onions are crowding because of being planted to closely, thinning them will provide you with some green onions.  You may harvest them anytime they look big enough to you.  You may be able to allow some to grow to full maturity, when the leaves begin to yellow and drop over.  In any case, it is advisable to harvest onions if they are beginning to show signs of going to seed, thereby salvaging them before they become practically unusable.

Onions have few insect pests.  Root maggots and thrips can cause problems.  Root maggots can be prevented by companion planting the onions as described above.  This prevents the maggots from travelling from bulb to bulb.  If planted in rows or raised beds, consider covering the onions with light and permeable row covers manufactured specifically for crop protection.  Row covers can also prevent birds from damaging the bulbs.  Thrips can be controlled with insecticidal soap or insecticides labeled for onions.

Mature onion bulbs can be stored for future use by cutting off the yellowed foliage and laying the bulbs on sheets of newspaper for about three weeks in a warm, dry place.  This allows the papery covering of the bulbs, called tunics, to dry.  When the tunics are dry, the bulbs can be kept in net bags for several weeks.

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Serving Up Rhubarb

Photo by Evan Amos

Rhubarb is a favorite for many folks, but to others it's practically unknown.  Garrison Keillor, creator of A Prairie Home Companion radio show, sang his famous lines, "Mama's little baby loves rhubarb, rhubarb, Beebopareebop Rhubarb Pie", and made us feel nostalgic for it even if we'd never eaten it.

Rhubarb has an interesting history.  Native to Asia, it has been used as medicine there for a very long time.  The plants grew wild along the Volga River.  It is said that some early Americans consumed the leaves, but paid for it with their lives because they didn't know that the leaves and roots of rhubarb were toxic to humans.  How they came by it is unclear.  Only the leaf stem or petiole is edible.  Not surprisingly the use of rhubarb for culinary purposes was apparently abandoned until someone discovered many years later that they had eaten the wrong part of the plant.  On the other hand, historians tell us that rhubarb was so highly regarded as medicine by Chinese that they considered it too valuable to share with the common rabble in Europe.

Rhubarb is a versatile and beautiful perennial plant that does well in ornamental and vegetable gardens from USDA climate zone 8 and upward.  The large leaves are bold in appearance, and the colorful petioles (red, pink or light green) are very attractive.  Even if not eaten, it would be worth growing in the landscape or containers for beauty alone.

Choose a site in full sun with rich, well-drained soil where the plants can be left to grow for decades.  In the south, rhubarb can suffer from the sun's heat, so planting in partial shade is helpful.  Soil pH should range between 5.8 and 6.8.  I recommend taking a soil sample to your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service for testing.  Call them first for instructions and fees.

When the soil has warmed and danger of frost is past, cultivate the soil deeply and well.  Add lots of composted organic matter and any other soil amendments that the soil test result indicates.  Once planted, you won't have an opportunity to cultivate the soil so well again.  Do it right the first time.

Though the roots you purchase commercially may seem small (usually no more than one and a half inches long), they will grow large if well-maintained.  Plant them about three feet apart.  Dig a hole large enough in the soft soil to accommodate the roots without crowding.  You may make a cone-shaped mound in the bottom of the hole and spread the roots over it.  The buds, or "eyes", should be two to four inches below the soil surface.  Gently press the soil over the plant and water well, taking care not to wash the soil away from the crown.

When new growth appears, begin adding composted mulch or straw around the plants.  This will help to conserve moisture, prevent erosion and suppress weeds.  Weeds compete for nutrients and moisture.   Even without weed competition rhubarb needs watering, so provide at least one inch of water per week during the growing season if rainfall is not adequate.  Remove seed stalks when they appear for the maturing seeds diminish the vitality of the plants.

When the plants die back in the fall, gardeners in the north may add composted mulch.  Southern gardeners, however, should remove mulch because rhubarb benefits from cold winter temperatures.  Composted mulch should be replaced in the spring.  Repeat the process every year.

Resist the temptation to sample your rhubarb the first year.  The plants need to become well-established.  They are prevented from doing so if the leaves and stalks are removed.  You may harvest a few petioles the second year if you must.  Take more the next year and thereafter.  Petioles are ready for harvesting when they are about three fourths of an inch to one inch wide.  The amount you may harvest depends upon the vigor of the plants.  If the plants are not vigorous, removing too many leaves will weaken the plants further.  So it's very important to maintain healthy plants.

Rhubarb is not seriously bothered by insects and diseases, though aphids, borers and beetles may appear.  Insecticidal soap is effective enough against aphids.  Beetles may be removed by hand.  Little can be done about borers, but they are rare.  As with many species, selected companion plants can repel insects.  Rhubarb does well when grown near garlic and onions.  They also respond well when grown near roses and columbine.

Leaf spot may occasionally appear, but it can be controlled by gathering and destroying dead foliage in the fall.  If the planting site is not well-drained, crown and root rot may cause a problem.  But this can be prevented by choosing a proper site in the beginning.

Rhubarb has a pleasingly tart taste, especially when sweetened.  It should be noted that rhubarb became more popular in North America when sugar became readily available and cheap.

Its called "pie plant" for good reason as it ends up in pies more often than not.  But rhubarb can also be used in breads and other baked goods, drinks, and as vegetable entrees or side dishes along with various meats.  Rhubarb can be canned or frozen for later use.  Remember:  only the leaf petiole is edible; the leaves and roots contain oxalic acid, so are toxic to humans.

Give rhubarb a try.  You'll enjoy its beauty, flavor, and the pleasure of growing a bit of history in your own backyard.

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Bedazzling Begonias

For bedazzling, eye-popping hues in container gardens and color beds, go with tuberous begonias.  Tuberous begonias are perennials that grow from swollen stems.  Roots emerge from the bottom; shoots and leaves appear along the top and sides.  Their parentage can be traced to species found in South America and hybridized during the late 19th century.

The botanical name is Begonia x tuberhybrida.  The genus is named for Michel Begon (1638-1710), naturalist and governor of New France (French Canada).  Tuberhybrida means "hybrid tuber."  No surprise there, eh?

Tuberous begonias produce beautiful, succulent foliage, typical of the genus.  They are worth growing for the foliage alone.  Impressive flowers appear from mid-summer until cold weather stops them.  Colors are available throughout almost the entire color spectrum.  Common flower forms include double or camellia-types, fimbriata or carnation-types, and pendulous.  Their appearance is very lush.  Plant height is around 12".  They lend themselves to all kinds of uses from container gardening in small spaces to mass plantings in flower beds.  Use them in tropical gardens or wherever you want a tropical appearance. They're wonderful for hanging baskets, especially the pendulous forms.

Tuberous begonias can be grown almost anywhere in the United States, but they are reliably hardy only in USDA climate zones 10 and 11.  Some gardeners lift and store over winter in cooler zones, but they are rather inexpensive so are often treated as annuals.

Begonias prefer partial to full shade.  Rich soil, moist but well-drained, is best with mildly acidic pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.5.  The best way to determine if the pH is within range and contains the proper nutrients is to have the soil tested.  Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you.  You can collect the soil sample yourself.  For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis.  Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

If you use potting soil, choose the finest grade available.  Cheap soil will give poor results.  The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth.  Select containers that will allow you to include companion plants, if desired.  Larger containers will require less frequent watering.  The addition of water retentive gel can be beneficial.
 
Cultivate the soil, if necessary, and remove weeds.  If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the tubers.  Time-release fertilizers for annual plants are excellent.

Plant your begonias in spring after the danger of frost has passed.  Planting holes or trenchs should be about 3" deep.  Space the rhizomes about 8 to 12 inches apart.  Lay them flat in the bottom of the hole or trench.  Don't worry about which side is up.  Cover with about two inches of soil.  Water deeply.  If some of the soil washes away, add more.

Fertilize occasionally throughout the growing season.  Keep soil moist, but not soggy.  Weed, if necessary.

When I plant color, I tend to do it in a big way.  No dabs here and there for me.  I like lots of it; bold statements.  Try it.  I think you will like it, too.  Plant a box of tuberous begonias in your garden.  They are sure to please.  You'll be surprised how many ways you can use them.

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Stopping Short For Moneywort

I'm not ashamed to pick up pennies wherever I find them.  As a gardener, plantsman and writer, I can use the extra income.  Anything that even looks like money gets my attention: bottle caps, small metal plugs and such.  So when I first spied Moneywort, I stopped short and said, "Oooo, oooo!  What's that?"

Its botanical name is Lysimachia nummularia (pronounced "ly-si-MAK-ee-uh noo-mew-LAH-ree-ah").  The genus is named for Lysimachus (360-281BC), the successor to Alexander The Great, king of Macedonia and Thrace, who is said to have fed the plant to his oxen to calm them.   "Nummularia" means "coin-shaped."  It also goes by other common names including "Creeping Jenny", "Herb Twopence" and "Two-penny grass".

Moneywort is native to Europe, but is used in North America as an ornamental ground cover.  So successful is it that some consider it invasive.  But, dear friends, you can't blame a ground cover for doing what ground covers do best; they cover ground.

Plant height ranges from 1" to 3".  Foliage is evergreen.  My favorite is L. nummularia 'Aurea', which sports bright chartreuse or yellow leaves.  'Aurea' is a little less aggressive than the species.  Yellow flowers are produced throughout the growing season.  Moneywort spreads by sending out runners, adding richness and color to the garden.

Moneywort thrives in full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 3 through 10 in moist soil.  Because it needs consistent moisture, partial shade is recommended in the hottest climates, though heat itself is not the issue.  Recommended soil pH ranges from 5.6 to 7.5.

This ground cover is most effective between taller perennials and shrubs, in container and bog gardens, and cascading over stone walls.  It's fine around stepping-stones, tolerating some foot traffic.

If soil is compacted, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 10" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  If the soil is high in organic matter and friable, it may not require cultivation.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil, if necessary.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant Moneywort with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Space the plants 24" to 36" apart, depending upon plant size. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.  Fertilize sparingly and irrigate when necessary.

Moneywort grows so well throughout so many climate zones, it could lend richness and color to your garden, too.  Your garden visitors will stop in their tracks, and say, "Oooo, oooo!  What is that?"

See how nicely Moneywort cascades over the rims of pots in this water garden?

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Recycle Your Christmas Tree To Keep On Giving

According to the Christian liturgical calendar, Christmas only begins on December 25, lasting through January 5.  There are twelve entire days to celebrate.  Then the Feast of Epiphany is celebrated immediately, remembering the Wise Men.  What a great way to banish the after-Christmas blues!

With Christmas officially ended, you might be wondering what to do with your Christmas tree.  Rather than pile it in a sad curbside heap destined for the landfill, recycle it for the happy benefit of others.  Here are a few ideas.  Your options may vary depending on your locality and circumstances.

1.  Have a bonfire and invite friends to gather around and sing.  But you'll need more than a dried Christmas tree to keep it going.  Unless you add some material with longer burn times, you won't make it through the first verse of We Three Kings.  Some will argue that burning your tree is not environmentally responsible, but judging from the weather forecast for the next couple of weeks, we could use a little warming.

2.  Many municipalities and businesses establish collection points where they accept your tree.  Some have machines set up, process your tree on the spot, and return it to you as a bag of mulch for your garden or compost bin.  Others take the trees to a permanent facility for chipping and use the finished material in parks and playgrounds.

3.  Provide shelter for wildlife by toting your tree to the back of your property and leaving it there.  Birds and small mammals will appreciate the cover it provides.  For good measure, you may hang fruit and bird feeders from the boughs to attract your avian friends.  Remember, this is a time for feasting.

4.  Cut branches off the trunk and use them in your perennial garden to help support taller plants such as delphiniums.  Position them so they form arches.  Your perennials will grow through the branches.

5.  Boughs can also be used to protect tender plants from cold weather.  Positioning them so that they form arches, straw and dried leaves can be laid on top until spring thaw.

6.   If your circumstances do not permit you try options 3 through 6 above, check with a community garden project to see if they could use your tree for those purposes

7. Submerge it in your pond or lake.  The sunken tree will provide shelter and attract food for many species.  Some municipalities collect trees and sink hundreds of them into public lakes to create fish habitat.

8.  If you live near the sea, check with your local beach authorities to see if they use old Christmas trees for erosion control.  Many do.
 
9.  Similarly, recycled Christmas trees may be used along lakes and rivers to prevent shoreline and river bank erosion.

I'm sure there are more ways to recycle Christmas trees than these, but I hope this presents you with some options you hadn't thought about before.

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New Year Snapshots of Charleston Gardens

"Pedestrian" has been given an unfortunate meaning:  lacking in vitality, commonplace, dull.  But after two mind- and butt-numbing round-trip drives from Georgia to DC on the I-95 corridor in as many months, I can assure you that "pedestrian" is anything but.

My New Year's Day trip started like the others, in rain.  The driving rhythm and competition to "get ahead" was compelling.  But not long after exiting the interstate onto US 17N, I was forced by the posted speed limit to slow to an unwelcomed crawl.  Highway stretches lined with moss-draped oaks, and marshes exuding sulfury miasma intoxicated me enough.  By the time I crossed the Ashley River into Charleston, I longed to mosey.  It being a holiday, I easily found a parking spot on Meeting Street near White Point Gardens.  Rainfall ended; a few rays of sunshine sliced through the clouds.  I grabbed my camera.  From there, I strolled south and east to the Battery, back west on Murray Boulevard to Lenwood Boulevard, northward to Tradd Street, and eastward to complete the circuit.

Gardens entice me.  Walled ones seduce me to point at doorways and windows, to lean over fences, to poke my lens through grates and gates, to stroll brazenly where others may fear to tread.  If anyone challenges me, I'll say, "It's okay.  I'm a perfessional."  Though no one has, I'm ready; I've rehearsed it a thousand times.

The accompanying photographs amount to a confession of sorts.  Follow me now to enjoy the vitality and imagination of a few of Charleston's gardeners that pedestrians may enjoy.

 

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Blue Star Creeper - Flowering Lawn Substitute

It is unlikely that any ground cover will ever be as popular as turf grass.  It is beautiful when well-maintained, tolerates a lot of foot traffic and makes a fine surface for entertaining and sports.  Many types are available, so it's not difficult to find one for almost any climate and soil type.  What's more, turf grass is conventional and doesn't raise eyebrows.  On the other hand, turf grass requires frequent maintenance, which can become rather expensive.  Furthermore, it is not particularly interesting, so some homeowners seek alternatives.

There are a host of substitutes, and Blue Star Creeper is a good one.  It may be that the most difficult thing to know about the plant is its name.  It has been called Isotoma  (pronounced eye-SOT-oh-muh), Laurentia (law-REN-tee-uh), Lobelia (low-BEE-lee-ah) and Pratia (PRAT-ee-uh), and those are just the genera.  The species names have been as many and confusing.

The genus is native to parts of Asia, Australia and New Zealand.

Tiny green leaves form a low, dense mat that is evergreen in warmer climates or semi-evergreen in cooler ones.  Small, light blue flowers bloom from spring to fall.  Mature height is 3". Spreads to 18".  It tolerates some foot traffic, but not much.  Use it where you want a low-maintenance cover at a distance from high-traffic areas.  It's perfect around patios and between stepping stones, but bear in mind that foliage and stems that spread over the edges of hard surfaces will be crushed if mashed.

As with many ornamental plants, Blue Star Creeper can be toxic if ingested in large amounts, and may cause skin irritation in sensitive persons.

Blue Star Creeper is often used in container gardens where it forms a nice mat beneath taller plant subjects, and it makes an effective ground cover beneath small deciduous trees, landscape shrubs and other perennials.  It grows densely enough when established to smother many less aggressive weeds.

It thrives in full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 5 or 6 to 10 in fertile, well-drained, slightly moist soils with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.  Blue Star Creeper will not tolerate consistently wet soil.

Begin by taking a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing.  The results will specify any soil amendments needed.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Add enough soil to raise the bed at least 4" above the surrounding ground level. This will help to promote good drainage. Compost may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 18" to 24" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant Blue Star Creeper with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between watering.

It has no serious pests and few diseases.  Warm, wet soil may encourage common fungal diseases which can cause some problems if not treated, but the best way to avoid them is to plant in a proper environment as mentioned before.

If you're looking for a low-maintenance, low-profile, quickly growing ground cover with a long bloom season, consider Blue Star Creeper.

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Lamium - Not As Nettlesome As It Sounds

If you were offered a basket of dead nettle, you might be put off by the suggestion for nettles are well-known for their stinging hairs.  I dare say there isn't one of us who hasn't run across them as children or brushed against them with our bare limbs and felt the consequences.  Nettles are synonymous with stinging.  To be nettlesome is to be very irritating.  Dead or alive, you wouldn't want them.

But wait, the name unfairly invokes distrust of a very charming genus of perennial plants, Lamium, native mostly to Europe.  The botanical name, (pronounced LAY-mee-um), which means "dead nettle", refers to the hairy surfaces of the plant which do not sting.  Thus, they are "dead."  One of the most popular ornamental species is L. maculatum (pronounced mak-you-LAY-tum), meaning "spotted."  Lamium belongs to the Mint family, Lamiaceae.

It's easy to recognize Lamium's relationship to mints.  Leaves are ovate and toothed.  The most popular varieties are variegated.  The flowers are fairly large compared to mints, usually pink in color and having two lips, and are produced repeatedly throughout the growing season.  The fragrance is not as pleasing as its tasty cousins.  Lamium grows about 12" high and spreads by runners to about 12" across.  It attracts bees and butterflies.

Lamium is suitable as a ground cover and in container gardens.  It's beautiful planted at the base of stone walls and other such structures.  Plant plenty of it for the bees and butterflies, and in your herb garden.  You'll also love it for its seasonal color; the foliage is nearly evergreen and displays a nice plum shade in winter.

Lamium thrives in partial to full shade in USDA climate zones 3 to 9 or 10 in fertile, well-drained, slightly moist soils with pH ranging from 6.1 to 8.5.  It's somewhat drought-tolerant when established.

Begin by taking a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing.  The results will specify any soil amendments needed.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Add enough soil to raise the bed at least 4" above the surrounding ground level. This will help to promote good drainage. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 12" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Because it likes well-drained soil, plant Lamium with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between watering.

Lamium has no serious pests or diseases, and deer don't like it.  The greatest cause of failure is planting it in an environment that is not to its liking.

Lamium does not spread as rapidly or as far as its relative, Lamiastrum.  The plant is much more compact and as beautiful.  However, if you have to cover a large area, Lamiastrum may be the better choice.  Considering its beauty, adaptability to a wide range of climates and soil conditions, Lamium should be one of the top choices for your garden.

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Yellow Archangel - Resembles Dead Nettle and Smells Like A Weasel?

Yellow Archangel.  The name evokes a visitor from on high.  I suppose it's derived from the appearance of the flower which is yellow and appears to be winged.  Its botanical name is Lamiastrum (pronounced lay-mee-ACE-trum) galeobdolon (pronounced gay-lee-OB-doh-lon) and refers to characteristics not so lofty.  Translated, it means "resembles dead nettle and smells like a weasel."  Thus, its other common name is "dead nettle", which it shares with Lamium (pronounced LAY-mee-um).  Sometimes, in fact, Lamiastrum is included in the genus, Lamium.  Both plants belong to Lamiaceae, the Mint family.

At once, you'll recognize Lamiastrum's relationship to mints in foliage and flower.  Leaf shape is ovate and toothed, the most popular varieties being variegated.  The flower is similarly shaped but much larger than other mints.  The fragrance, however, is not so pleasing.  Lamiustrum grows up to 18" high and spreads up to 24" by runners.  It does attract bees and butterflies. 

Lamiastrum is native to much of Europe, but was introduced to North America as an ornamental plant.  Finding much to its liking, the plant has made itself at home.  Which is fine if you really like it, as I do.  The foliage is beautiful and the flowers are very attractive.  It is most effective as a ground cover, especially in light shade.  Provided that its needs are met, it requires little maintenance.  It thrives in partial to full shade in USDA climate zones 4 to 9 in well-drained soils with pH ranging from 6.1 to 8.5.  It's somewhat drought-tolerant when established.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Add enough soil to raise the bed at least 4" above the surrounding ground level. This will help to promote good drainage. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants. 

Space the plants 18" to 24" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Because it likes well-drained soil, plant Lamiastrum with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between watering.  Over-watering is the most frequent cause of failure.

Lamiastrum has no serious pests or diseases.  What's more, deer don't like it.  As mentioned before, the greatest cause of failure is over-watering.

Should you include Lamiastrum in your garden?  In some parts of the country such as the Pacific Northwest, it is considered invasive.  Check with your local Cooperative Extension office to determine whether it is appropriate for your area.  Lamiastrum does exactly what a good ground cover should; it covers ground beautifully.

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Ornaments On The Wing

Sitting at the window viewing the congregation about our bird feeders and bath, I was impressed once again with the beauty and cheer that songbirds bring to us, especially this time of year.  The day was rainy and cold.  Bright red cardinals caught my eye.  They are so called because the color is reminiscent of the red robes worn by Roman Catholic cardinals.  Winging among the Southern Magnolias and feasting on the sunflower seeds we provide, I thought of them as Christmas ornaments.  It seldom snows here in south Georgia, but I remember enjoying the wonderful contrast of red against white that I've seen during winter visits to the snowy north.  They are no less beautiful against the monochromatic shades of a rainy day.

Within moments, a blue jay appeared in his royal splendor.  Like kings, they tend to dominate the scene, but they are beautiful, indeed.  Other species displaying silver, black and white reminded me of tinsel.

This is the time of year when birds are on the move, migrating as cold weather approaches from their summer playgrounds to far-away places.  If you watch carefully, you may see some of the following colorful species passing through that are not often seen in your area.

• Rose-breasted Grosbeaks - The black head and red breast patch on white distinguishes the males.   Females are heavily streaked with brown and white.  They winter in Mexico and northern South America.
• Purple Finches - These raspberry-colored friends, about the size of sparrows, love bird feeders during winter months.
• Rufous-Sided Towhees - You'll find them kicking up leaves and debris on the ground.  Their black heads, backs, white undersides and orangish sides are quite handsome.  They don't go far during winter, shifting only a bit southward.
• Orioles - Northern and Baltimore, are quite striking with their bright orange bodies.  They're headed to southern Mexico and beyond.  They love fruit and jelly.
• American Goldfinches - Their bright yellow colors fade in winter, but remain very attractive.  They spend the winter near the Gulf Coast and in Mexico.
• Painted Buntings - These gaudy creatures tend to be shy.  I don't know why.  You may find them around feeding stations in the South.  They go to the Gulf Coast, Bahamas, Mexico and onward to Panama during our winter months.
• Indigo Buntings - These gorgeous birds appear to be dark blue, but they are actually black.  The blue results from light diffraction on the feathers.  They're also headed to Mexico, Panama and the West Indies.  Wouldn't it be nice to go with them?

These are but a few of the many wonderful species I could mention.  If you would like a better chance of enjoying them, provide something for their journeys along the way.  Add a few more bird feeders to your station.  Stock up on bird seed, fruit and other favorite foods.  Don't forget to keep your bird baths filled and warmed.  If you experience freezing weather, heated baths will be especially welcome.

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Behind A Garden Wall: The Georgia Southern Botanical Garden

Nestled near the campus of Georgia Southern University, a quiet place awaits harried students, faculty and the Statesboro community.  Passersby on busy Fair Road might not know the garden even exists, since it is mostly concealed behind native hardwoods and shrubbery.  If not for a discreet sign, one might glimpse down the modest allee and mistake it for a quaint residence.

In fact, the Georgia Southern Botanical Garden was once a farmstead near The First District Agricultural and Mechanical School, an institution established in 1906.  Mr. Dan Bland and his wife, Catharine, established their farm of more than 50 acres in 1916 shortly after their marriage.  There they lived and worked for many decades growing cotton, vegetables, hogs, chickens and cows as the school and community grew up around them.

Mr. Dan was not only a farmer, a high calling indeed, but also an avid plant enthusiast with special interest in native species.  In 1985, he willed the remaining 6.5 acres of his property including his cottage and outbuildings to the Georgia Southern College Foundation for use as a botanical garden.  It was, as Wendell Berry put it, a "gift of good land."  The garden has been undergoing constant improvement and growth since.  Many of the plants in Mr. Dan's collection, including camellias, azaleas and the allee of magnolias and hollies are an important part of the garden's landscape. 

The school underwent transformations, becoming a Teacher's College, then a liberal arts college.  In 1990, the college gained university status, and is now the third largest in Georgia.  In 2006, the Carnegie Foundation for the Advancement of Teaching classified Georgia Southern University as a doctoral/research institution.

The GS Botanical Garden offers educational and recreational opportunities to the community as well as to university faculty and students.  Educational tours, seminars, workshops, and other special events are often conducted.  The Garden is also a popular site for social gatherings such as weddings, parties and wine-tastings.

A walking tour of the garden features landscaping with native plants, a heritage garden including old-fashioned plant varieties and cultivars, a butterfly garden, rose arbor, the allee, a woodland trail, the cottage and restored outbuildings.  Of special interest is the recently constructed water conservation area which features permeable paving, a rain garden and retention systems.  A visitor may also view many protected plant species that are part of the Garden's collection.  Art work by faculty and students enhances the landscape.

This unique botanical garden affords a wonderful perspective on gardening in the Deep South and Georgia's Coastal Plain.  When I stroll around the grounds, I think of Wendell Berry and that line in his essay, An Excellent Farmstead, "Everywhere you look you see the signs of care."  That is precisely what the Blands willed.  If you're in the area, make it a point to visit.

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