Bluebells Seem Like Fairy Gifts

There is a silent eloquence
In every wild bluebell
That fills my softened heart with bliss
That words could never tell.
                                                                       The Bluebell, Anne Bronte

It was early spring and I was walking through a wood near Munich.  Gray clouds had induced in me a pensive mood, when I came upon a clump of bluebells.  The forest at once became enchanted.  In the words of Bronte, they "seemed like fairy gifts."  Such was my first experience with these delightful plants.

Well, I thought they were bluebells.  They could have been squill.  They are very much alike, and the names are practically synonymous.  Let me explain.

Plants are grouped together because of similarity or affinity.  But sometimes, upon closer examination, they are set apart because of certain differences.  This is the case with bluebells and squill.

Most squill are properly of the genus, Scilla, a member of the Hyacinthaceae family.  The genus consists of about 90 species native to Europe and parts of Asia where they grow in woodlands and meadows.  The flowers are somewhat bell-like or star-like and are found in shades ranging from blue or pink to nearly white.  Most bloom in spring, though some bloom in fall.  Plant size ranges from under 6" to 12".  The name, Scilla (pronounced "SILL-uh"), is thought to have come from a Greek word meaning "to excite."  They certainly do.

Another squill, formerly of the genus Scilla, has been set apart into its own genus, Puschkinia.  This, too, is in the Hyacinthaceae family.  Pronounced "push-KIN-ee-uh", it is named for Count Apollo Mussin-Puschkin, an 18th Century Russian chemist and plant collector.  The genus consists of two species that are native to Turkey, Iran, Iraq and Lebanon.  Flowers are very similar to scilla in colors ranging from pale blue to white.  Plant size ranges from under 6" to 12".

Hyacinthoides is another related genus - so related in fact that it also used to be included among the Scilla.  But taxonomists, doing what they do best, separated it from the others.  Hyacinthoides (pronounced "hi-ah-sin-THOY-deez") means "resembles hyacinth", and by golly it does.  No surprise that it is also in the Hyacinthaceae family.  These are the true bluebells, though colors actually range from blue or pink to white.  Plant size ranges from 6" to 18".  Bluebells, sometimes called Wood Hyacinths, are native from the Iberian peninsula, across south central Europe and northward to Britain.  Each species has its own range.

Bluebells and squill require very little maintenance.  They are wonderful for bulb gardens, perennial gardens, container gardens as well as for naturalizing in meadows, around the margins of lawns, and in woodlands.

Planting of squill and bluebells begins in fall.  As always, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office before planting.  They will send it to a lab for analysis and recommendations.  Expect to pay a nominal fee.  If you don't understand the report, ask the County Agent to interpret it for you.

Unless you are naturalizing them in the lawn, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  A good all-around practice for bulbs and such is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden.  Repeat the application when growth appears, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

After blooming, be sure to let the leaves yellow and die before cutting them.  Leaving them alone will allow the bulbs to build up food reserves for a glorious show the next year.

Following are specific information and planting tips for some of the most popular species.

Spanish Bluebells (Hyacinthoides hispanica) - Flowers appear in late spring to early summer.  Thrives in USDA climate zones 4 to 8.  Prefers average garden soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 6.5.  Plant in light shade to full shade.  Plant bulbs 4" deep and 4" apart.  Water needs are average.  They are somewhat drought tolerant; avoid over-watering.  The plants are toxic to mammals, so are deer and rodent resistant.

Striped Squill (Puschkinia scilloides var. libanotica) -  Flowers appear in late winter to early spring. Thrives in USDA climate zones 3 to 8 or 9.  Prefers average, well-drained garden soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.  Plant in full sun to partial shade.  Plant bulbs 2" to 5" deep and 3" to 6" apart.  The plants are toxic to mammals, so are deer and rodent resistant.

Early or White Squill (Scilla mischtschenkoana or S. tubergeniana) - Flowers appear in late winter to early spring.  Thrives in USDA climate zones 4 to 8.  Prefers average garden soil with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.8.  Plant in full sun to partial shade.  Plant bulbs 4" deep and 4" apart.  Soil should be consistently moist, so avoid allowing it to try out.  The plants are toxic to mammals, so are deer and rodent resistant.

Siberian Squill (Scilla siberica) - Flowers appear in late winter to early spring.  Thrives in USDA climate zones 2 to 8.  Prefers average garden soil with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.8.  Plant in full sun to partial shade.  Plant bulbs 4" deep and 4" apart.  Soil should be consistently moist, so avoid allowing it to try out.  The plants are toxic to mammals, so are deer and rodent resistant.

No matter which you choose, you'll be delighted with these elegant, enchanting "fairy gifts."

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A Flurry Of Snowdrops In Spring

Springtime brings a flurry of favorite flowers, and among them are Snowdrops.  Snowdrops belong to the genus Galanthus which comprises about 20 species ranging from the mountains of France to western Turkey.  They pop up in so many places around the world, however, that you'd think they belonged just about everywhere.  Perhaps from as early as Roman times, they were carried about and planted as far away from their native habitat as Britain.  They are still so popular that plant hunters can't resist the urge to dig them up.  In fact, some species are so threatened that it is illegal under international trade agreements to disturb them without a permit.  (Be assured that those we market are sold legally and not harvested from the wild.)

The most widely available species is Galanthus nivalis.  Galanthus (pronounced guh-LAN-thus) means "milk-flower", referring to its color.  Nivalis (pronounced niv-VAL-iss) means "growing in snow."

Snowdrops are perennial plants that grow from bulbs.  Long, narrow leaves resemble narcissus foliage.  Flowers are produced in late winter to early spring on stems about 12" long.  After flowering, the leaves yellow and die.

Like very many ornamental plants, Snowdrops are toxic and must not be eaten, so care must be taken if planting where "munchkins" might be tempted to sample them.  Sensitive persons should consider wearing gloves if handling any part of the plant, especially the juice from cut stems or bulbs.  Interestingly, though, they contain a substance called galanthamine which is used in the treatment of Alzheimer's disease.  Bear in mind that it is not a home remedy.

Because they are toxic, Snowdrops are deer and rodent resistant.

Snowdrops thrive in full sun to partial shade in climate zones 3 through 8, and require slightly but consistently moist soil that is high in organic matter.  Best pH should range from 5.6 to 7.5.

As always, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office before planting.  They will send it to a lab for analysis and recommendations.  Expect to pay a nominal fee.  If you don't understand the report, ask the County Agent to interpret it for you.

Planting begins in fall, and must be done soon after you receive them.  They will not be happy if left to dry out.

Unless you are naturalizing them in the lawn, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  A good all-around practice for bulbs and such is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden.  Repeat the application when growth appears, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

Plant the bulbs about 4" deep.  Depth is measured to the bottom of the hole.  Recommended plant spacing is 2" to 3" apart.  Figure on planting 10 bulbs per square foot.

The plants require very little maintenance.  Plant them and forget about them.  They are wonderful for bulb gardens, perennial gardens, container gardens as well as for naturalizing in meadows, around the margins of lawns, and in woodlands.  After blooming, be sure to let the leaves yellow and die before cutting them.  Leaving them alone will allow the bulbs to build up food reserves for a glorious show the next year.  Believe me, a generous planting of Snowdrops is a wonderful sight that will quickly chase the winter blues.

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Afternoon Of The Fawn Lilies

Before hardwood forests begin to leaf in spring, Fawn Lilies grace the forest floor.  I'll never forget the first time I saw them.  I was a college student at the time, hiking with a friend.  As we explored a small stream in the foothills of east Tennessee, we came upon the charming yellow blossoms of Erythronium americanum nodding in the breeze and reflecting the dappled sunlight.  Enchanted, we stopped to sit and enjoy them for awhile.  I remember it as the afternoon of the fawn lilies.

Erythronium (pronounced er-ih-THROH-ni-um) refers to the reddish stems or mottling on the leaves on most of the species.  Native to parts of Asia, Europe and North America, they are also characterized by bell-shaped flowers (usually yellow) with recurved petals. Common names also include Dog-Tooth Violet, Trout Lily, and Deer-Tongue.  The most widely available species is E. revolutum.  "Revolutum" (pronounced re-voh-LOO-tum) refers to the petals which appear rolled back.  It can be found growing wild in most of eastern North America.  The most popular cultivar is 'Pagoda', a hybrid of E. tuolumnense, a California native, and E. revolutum.

Fawn Lilies are not believed to possess any medicinal qualities.  But N. J. Turner in Food Plants of Coastal First Peoples reported that American Indians used to harvest the bulbs for food.  They must have done so when food was otherwise scarce for the bulbs have a bitter taste.  Aboriginal diners washed them down with water to avoid feeling sick.  (Reminds me of my childhood experience with soy burgers.)  I haven't tried them myself, and don't recommend you do so either.

Erythronium x 'Pagoda' produces 3 to 5 yellow flowers on reddish stalks up to 12" tall.  It prefers partial shade in climate zones 3 through 9, and consistently moist soil that is high in organic matter with pH ranging from 5.1 to 7.5.

As always, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office before planting.  For a nominal fee, they will send the sample to a lab for analysis.  The analysis will normally be sent to you through the mail.  If the test results seem somewhat cryptic and difficult to understand, don't hesitate to call your County Agent for explanation.

Planting begins in fall, and must be done soon after you receive them.  They will not be happy if left to dry out.

Unless you are naturalizing them in the lawn, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  A good all-around practice for bulbs and such is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden.  Repeat the application when growth appears, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

Plant the bulbs about 5" deep.  Depth is measured to the bottom of the hole.  Recommended plant spacing is 3".

The plants require very little maintenance.  Plant them and forget about them.  They are wonderful for bulb gardens, perennial gardens, container gardens as well as for naturalizing in woodland and shade gardens.  When they bloom in the spring and nod their heads in the breeze, each day will bring new delights.  Be sure to include them in your garden, and enjoy spring afternoons among your fawn lilies.

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Behind A Garden Wall: The Maclay Gardens

Tall pines and a thick hardwood forest conceal one of Florida's best gardens from heavy traffic on Thomasville Road in Tallahassee.  But behind a fence and beyond a brick entry, the Alfred B. Maclay Gardens is open for all to enjoy.  Now an urban oasis, it was once the hunter's paradise.  The scene is not typical of what one imagines when thinking of Florida.  Rolling hillsides and forests resemble the upcountry of the eastern U.S.  Indeed, the geology of the Appalachians is rooted here.

Fertile soil and rich diversity of flora and fauna attracted humans to this site from prehistoric times.  Native Americans inhabited the area, followed by Europeans.  Encompassing this region, Spanish missionaries developed the largest and most enduring system of missions in North America.  Control was later seized by the English.  Following the War of Independence, the U.S. government deeded land to the Marquis de Lafayette for his assistance during the conflict.  The Marquis never visited, so later sold his property.

In 1882, another Frenchman bought a parcel and developed a vineyard which, by 1890, was producing 4,000 gallons of wine per year.  He sold it when the county voted to go "dry" in 1904, before Prohibition.  Colonel John H. Law, an insurance businessman from Chicago, bought the property and established a hunting lodge which became the site of lavish parties.  New York financier Alfred Maclay and his wife Louise acquired the land in 1923, joined "house to house and field to field", and established a large estate of over 3000 acres as a winter home.  Later it was acquired by the State of Florida and now is operated as a state park.  Join me now as we visit this garden treasure.

A picturesque brick walkway flanked by native plant species including Coontie (Zamia integrifolia) and non-native azalea cultivars such as 'Christmas Cheer' leads to the house.  Laid in 1968, the bricks were salvaged from an old street in Tampa, but were made in cities as distant as Baltimore, MD.  Because this was a winter home, plantings were designed for late-winter and early-spring bloom.

From the house, a short walk leads to a lakeside pavilion which affords a fine vista of Lake Hall.  Native trees include Gleditsia triacanthos, Magnolia grandiflora, Nyssa sylvatica, Taxodium distichum and Quercus species.  Further along the path, Aucuba japonica, Magnolia species, azaleas, camellias and native hollies provide seasonal interest.

The Camellia Walk is one of the most notable features of the Maclay Garden.  Sloping away from the house toward the Walled Garden, the path is flanked by an extensive collection of these lovely plants.  It is said that the oldest camellia, purchased and moved to the site in 1923, is nearly 200 years old.  Thousands of lovely blossoms adorn the shrubs and strew the path during colder months.

At the end of the Camellia Walk, one comes to the Walled Garden.  Ficus pumila covers the walls with soft evergreen foliage.  Sculptures of magnificent lions guard the entrance and stately peacocks perch atop the walls.  One notable feature is the blue medallion of infants inset into the wall.  The artwork was created by Florentine sculptor, Andrea Della Robbia, and was acquired by Mr. Maclay during one of his travels to Italy.

Mr. Maclay also returned from Europe with an increased knowledge and appreciation of landscape design.  Collaborating with his gardener, he designed special effects into the landscape such as the "disappearing" walk from the point of view of the reflecting pool.  Pansies are planted in the walled garden every year, continuing the tradition begun by the Maclays.  Century Plants (Agave americana) are also featured in the garden as well as repeated in the fountain's design.

From the Walled Garden, a path beneath large hollies leads to the Secret Garden.  This delightful little space features antique wrought iron benches and table, creating an intimate atmosphere.  Asarum, Selaginella and Cyrtomium are planted within the cozy scene and bordered by Mahonia.  During fall, winter and early spring, Osmanthus fragrans scents the air with its delightful citrusy perfume.

The visitor will also enjoy another pleasant walk.  The Pine Needle Path meanders between walls of large camellias, gardenias, osmanthus and viburnum.  Of special note is the native Florida Anise (Illicium floridanum) which produces lovely star-shaped blooms, and releases a spicy fragrance when the leaves are crushed.

Another narrow path leads past Japanese Maples (Acer palmatum), cherry and redbud (Cercis canadensis) to a scenic pond.  This water feature is designed to reflect the azalea covered hillside in the distance, and is especially effective when the shrubs are in bloom.  Daylilies, iris, liriope, ornamental grasses and bulbs are planted at the water's edge.  The Azalea Hillside is magnificent in season, but it also features Magnolia x soulangeana, conifers, holly, dogwood and Halesia (Silverbells).

Beyond the Azalea Hillside is the site of the former nursery where many of the plants in the garden were produced by the Maclays.  One is impressed by their level of involvement in the process, from production to design and installation.  Their inspiration, exploration and devotion resulted in this peaceful garden which all may now enjoy.  There is so much seldom understood and seen that grows behind a garden wall.


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Spring Starflower Like Grandma Used To Grow

Ipheion uniflorum (pronounced IF-ee-on you-nee-FLO-rum) is a lovely old-fashioned plant that your grand-mother may have grown.  It's native to Argentina and other parts of South America, but it seems so natural that you'd think it was from around here.  In my town, it pops up early- to mid-spring in lawns throughout the older neighborhoods.   It was introduced in the mid-nineteenth century, then apparently passed along from one gardener to another.

Its common name is Spring Star-flower, and as the name suggests, it is shaped like a star, pale to medium blue or purplish in color.  Plant height is about 6 to 10 inches.  Foliage is grass-like and smells like garlic when crushed under foot.  Perhaps because of the fragrance, Ipheion is deer-resistant.

Ipheion is perfect for naturalizing, alpine and rock gardens and containers.  Wonderful for edging garden paths.  I recommend you plant at least a couple hundred of them.

Ipheion is hardy in USDA climate zones 5 to 9.  They prefer full sun to partial shade in average garden soil. Ideal pH ranges from 6.1 to 7.8.  Though drought tolerant during summer months, they benefit from slightly moist soil during the growing season. Use a high quality grade of potting soil if growing in containers.

Before planting, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  For a nominal fee, they will send it to a lab for analysis and return a report to you.

Unless you are naturalizing them in the lawn, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep.

Your soil sample report will include fertilizer recommendations based upon the results of the test.  A fine all-around practice for spring-flowering bulbs is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden.  Repeat the application when shoots appear, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

Plant Ipheion about 2" to 4" deep.  Depth is measured to the bottom of the hole.  You can plant them as close as 3" apart.  Unless rain fall is inadequate, irrigation should not be necessary.  Because the plants are damaged at temperatures below 14 degrees Fahrenheit, gardeners in climate zones 5 - 7 should plant them 5" deep or cover with mulch for added protection.

Planted liberally, Ipheion will make a wonderful, long-lasting show in your spring garden.  You'll be glad you planted this lovely heirloom.

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The Magic Of Persian Buttercups

Ranunculus asiaticus, also known as Persian Buttercups, are fabulous perennials with a most unlikely name.  Ranunculus (pronounced ra-NUN-ku-lus), you see, means "little frog."  They are so called because some of the other species within the genus are native to watery places.  But this magical plant bears no resemblance to its salientian namesake.  Reminds me of Der Froschkönig.

Persian Buttercups are native to the eastern Mediterranean region and nearby Asia, southeastern Europe and northwestern Africa.  Flower colors range from white to shades of pink and red, orange and yellow.  Plant height and spread are approximately 12" to 18".

Though they are cold hardy in USDA climate zones 8 through 11, there is hardly a gardener who can not use them.  The tuberous roots can be dug when the weather begins to cool, and stored until the following spring, but gardeners who live in cold climates often save themselves the trouble and treat them as annuals, planting fresh ones each year.


Flowering begins in late spring and continues into early summer.  Persian Buttercups are excellent in container gardens, perennial and bulb gardens, and absolutely fantastic for cut flower arrangements.  They are particularly beautiful when planted in lavish beds, or tucked here and there among other flowers.

Plant in full sun and in average, well-drained soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.5.

Before planting, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  They often provide collection bags.  For the most basic recommendations, you may be charged a nominal fee.  For more information such as micro-nutrient and organic content you may be charged more.

Ranunculus planting begins in fall for gardeners in warmer climates.  Gardeners in colder climates should plant them in spring a couple of weeks or so before last frost.  Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep. Poorly drained sites can be improved by raising the height of the planting beds.

Your soil sample report from your local Cooperative Extension Service will include fertilizer recommendations based upon the results of the test.  Following instructions should be a good bet.  A fine all-around practice for Ranunculus is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of garden.  Repeat the application when shoots appear, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.  Apply 2 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet of garden area every two weeks until flower buds appear.  Bone meal is often beneficial.

Like many popular ornamental plants, Persian Buttercups are toxic to mammals.  Some chemicals in them can also cause skin irritations for sensitive persons, so avoid prolonged contact.

The tuberous roots are attached together at the top and somewhat resemble claws.  Plant them "claws" down about 2” deep, and 8" apart for a lush appearance.  They don't look like much, but know that they will soon be transformed into something handsome as if by magic.  Cover them with soil and add a top-dressing of mulch about 2" deep to suppress weeds.  Water regularly, but do not over-water.

To induce new blooms, remove (dead-head) spent flowers.  Of course, cutting them fresh for arrangements is perfect for encouraging more.  When hot weather arrives, the plants will begin to yellow and go dormant.  After leaves have dried, the roots may be dug and stored.

Plant a box of them.  When your "little frogs" bloom, you'll be astonished and wonder, "Where have you been all my life?"

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Figuring Planting Distances

I'm often asked about plant spacing.  "How far apart should I plant them?"  Frankly, there is no precise answer for any particular species.  Important factors to consider include the size of the plants at planting time, the approximate size of the plants at maturity, whether you want them to grow together or maintain space between, how much money you can afford to spend, and your own degree of patience.  Because variable factors are involved, I would more than likely give you a range of possible distances.  But it's not that difficult to ascertain for yourself.

To figure planting distances for perennials, shrubs and trees, begin by determining the mature spread or width of your plants. You can get that information from garden books, our planting guides, nurseries and the internet. Conclude whether you want the plants to fill in or if you want space between them at maturity. If you want space between them, how much? Add the approximate diameter of one mature plant to the desired space between two mature plants. The distance you decide upon need not be precise, but it should be consistent. When you begin planting, measure from the center of one plant to the center of the next.

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Exotic Fritillaries

If you have a passion for the exotic, Fritillaria will give you lots of satisfaction. Pronounced "frit-ill-AR-ee-ah"), they are named for the checkered or "dice-box" pattern displayed on many of the species. There are about 100 species in the genus. Most of them are simply called "fritillaries." All are native to temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere, including Europe, the Mediterranean region, Asia and North America. Plant height can range from less than 12" to 48", depending upon the species. Flowers are often bell-shaped and pendulous, and can range in color from bright orange or yellow to pink or dark purple. Most bloom mid-spring or early summer. Many of them produce disagreeable fragrances.

A few Fritillaria species are highly regarded in Chinese medicine, but as is often the case, some Fritillaria species are toxic. It's good to remember that herbal medicines can be quite dangerous if used without proper training. Because some fritillaries are toxic, be cautious if planting them where children may nibble them.

Fritillaria are wonderful subjects for perennial and bulb gardens. Sometimes only a few plants such as Fritillaria imperialis can make quite a visual impact. Smaller species are often very effective in large groups and for naturalizing.

Because there are so many species with different characteristics available, it is beyond the scope of this article to describe and give growing instructions for them all. But a few general tips are appropriate. Plant in full sun to partial shade and in well-drained, humusy garden soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.

Before preparing your planting site, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office. They will send the sample to a lab for analysis. The analysis will normally be sent to you through the mail. If the test results seem somewhat cryptic and difficult to understand, don't hesitate to call your County Agent for explanation.

Planting begins in September or October, depending upon your area. Unless you are naturalizing them, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 15" deep, removing all traces of weeds.

A fine all-around practice for bulbs and such is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden. Repeat the application when growth appears, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

You might think that plants bearing flowers as extraordinary in appearance as Fritillaria would be difficult to grow. But they are not. Include some in your garden. You'll love showing them off to the admiration of all.

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Behind A Garden Wall: The Old Unitarian Cemetery, Charleston, SC

Cemeteries often hold a strong fascination, perhaps because they remind us of our mortal end.  Not for me the wide open lawns with metal plaques flush against the turf, and pop-out vases for easy maintenance.  I much prefer those steeped in history with draped monuments, melancholy epitaphs, lambs, roses, willows and ivy carved of stone.  Very much like death itself, they are inconvenient but all the more gripping when concealed.

In Charleston, South Carolina a stone plaque set into a brick gateway on King Street marks the site of the oldest Unitarian Church in the South, founded in 1787 and "avowedly Unitarian since 1819."  Beyond the portal, behind the wall, its cemetery beckons the ambler like a ghost at the end of a darkened hallway.  Through a dark passage beneath an arching green canopy, one emerges into the burial ground teeming with herbs, shrubs and trees in wild abandon.  But neglected it is not.  Meandering among the stones we came upon a gardener drenched with sweat, at peace with himself, futilely pulling weeds.  But, this churchyard is known for its weeds; it simply would not do for many of them to be removed.  I was tempted to "search for truth and meaning" in that.

Well-rooted in and nourished by the past, typical species of a vintage southern garden flourish.  Among them we found Althea, Aspidistra, Azalea, Bignonia, Camellia, Campsis, Canna, Clerodendrum bungei, Crinum, Cyrtomium, Eryobotria, Euphorbia heterophylla, Ficus pumila, Hedera, Hedychium, Lagerstroemia, Lantana, Ligustrum, Liriope, Lonicera, Magnolia, Malvaviscus, Mirabilis, Nephrolepis, Parthenocissus virginiana, Pittosporum, Platycladus, Plumbago, Rosa, Sabal, Viburnum, Vitis, Wisteria, and much more.  If you have a moment, consider our images of that poignant place.















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The Politeness And Grace Of Freesia

Freesia

There was a time long, long ago when love was romantic and intentions were made known discreetly.  Rather than rumble through the neighborhood to the thunder of deep bass and obscenities, polite suitors gave blossoms to signal their desires in an idiom without words.  It was called "the language of flowers."

Freesia symbolized innocent friendship.  A gift of purple lilac hinted at love's first emotion.  A red tulip in hand was a bolder declaration of love.  Sunflowers indicated pure and lofty thoughts, but a handful of coriander might elicit a smart slap across the face.  Bearing a branch of linden in bloom (somewhat analogous to thundering through the neighborhood to deep bass and obscenities) could result in really big trouble and cause a fellow to "rue" the day that he ever entertained such thoughts.

Freesia (prounounced FREE-see-uh), native to South Africa, is very popular as a cut flower for arrangements.  Colorful flowers ranging from white and yellow to pink and blue appear on long racemes in spring.  The fragrance is often used in bath and body oils and in aromatherapy.  Plant height is approximately 18".

It is also superb for indoor gardening, fragrance gardens, bulb and perennial borders in mild climates.  Because all parts of the plant are toxic, be cautious if growing them where children may nibble them.

Freesia thrives in USDA climate zones 8 through 11, in full sun to partial shade.  Plant in organic, well-drained garden soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.

Before preparing your planting site, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  For a nominal fee, they will send the sample to a lab for analysis.  The analysis will normally be sent to you through the mail.  If the test results seem somewhat cryptic and difficult to understand, don't hesitate to call your County Agent for explanation.

Planting begins in late summer to fall.  Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  Mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden.  Repeat the application when growth appears, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

The bulbs look like onions.  Plant them 2" to 3" deep with the pointed end up.  Depth is measured to the bottom of the hole.  Recommended plant spacing is 3".  After planting, water well.

When the bloom season is over, the foliage will stay green for several weeks.  Let it remain to build food reserves in the bulb for future seasons.  When the leaves turn yellow and die back, they may be removed.

As mentioned earlier, freesia are excellent for forcing indoors.  Choose containers with drainage holes, and fill them with a good grade of peat-based potting soil.  Plant the bulbs 2" deep and 1" to 2" apart.  Water thoroughly after planting until water comes out of the drainage holes.  After the water has drained, place the containers in a sunny place.  Because it's often difficult to provide enough light indoors, freesia may become "leggy" and require support.  Decorative stakes or rods will suffice.  Soil should remain slightly moist, but never soggy.  If possible, keep the room temperature a bit on the cool side in order to prolong bloom time.  After flowering, your freesia may be transplanted outdoors provided that your climate is freesia-friendly.

Restore a sense of innocence, elegance and politeness to your surroundings with freesia.  By all means, share them with your friends.  The graceful stems, color and fragrance will be most welcome.

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The Power Of Winter Aconite

Eranthis hyemalis - Winter Aconite

When crocuses bloom, another blossom joins them cheerfully declaring that spring is near. It's called Eranthis (pronounced "ee-RAN-thiss") or Winter Aconite. There are 8 species in the genus. Most are native to Asia, but only one is commercially popular and it, E. hyemalis (pronounced "hi-EM-ay-liss"), is native to woodlands in southern Europe from France to Bulgaria. Bright yellow blooms like buttercups en mass light up forest floors beneath bare arborical canopies.

But Eranthis has a dark history which it shares with an unrelated herb, Aconitum. Both are commonly called "Aconite" and "Wolfbane." Both are poisonous. The word "aconite" is from the Greek meaning "without dust", referring to the easy victory that an athletic champion might enjoy. Aconite, then, is invincible in its potency. The name, "wolfbane", refers to their former use in ridding the countryside of those fearsome beasts. Perhaps meat was laced with bits of tuber and left out as bait. As though this practical application was not enough, legend had it that aconite could also repel werewolves if carried in one's purse. Better still, the bearer could wrap a tuber in lizard skin and not be seen at all! Well, the dangerous properties of both aconites were also put to benevolent use as medicines. But, then as now, they were only to be used by trained medical professionals, licensed exterminators and people who had to walk home after dark.

One wonders, however, why Eranthis and Aconitum are both freely available as ornamental perennials. Clearly, it is because gardeners are gentle people, without malice, and do not associate with bad company.

Eranthis is superb for container and rock gardens, low bulb borders, and naturalizing. Don't expect a handful of tubers to make much of an impression; they should be planted in large quantities. Because all parts of the plant are toxic, be cautious if planting them where children may dig and nibble them.  Deer won't eat them.

Winter Aconite thrives in USDA climate zones 3 through 7, in full sun to partial shade. Plant in well-drained, humusy garden soil that is consistently moist.

Before preparing your planting site, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office. For a nominal fee, they will send the sample to a lab for analysis. The analysis will normally be sent to you through the mail. If the test results seem somewhat cryptic and difficult to understand, don't hesitate to call your County Agent for explanation.

Planting begins in September or October, depending upon your area. Unless you are naturalizing them in the lawn, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Though they like moist soil, Eranthis tubers do not like soggy conditions.

A fine all-around practice for bulbs and such is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden. Repeat the application when growth appears, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

Before planting, soak the tubers over-night in tepid water. Plant them 2" to 3" deep. Depth is measured to the bottom of the hole. Recommended plant spacing is 3". Unless snow or rain fall is inadequate, irrigation should not be necessary.

Eranthis requires very little maintenance. Plant them and forget about them. But they will chase winter away and brighten your days when you need it most.

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Thoughts Of Wintry Hellebore

Helleborus - Hellebore - Lenten Rose

A flower that appears in very cold weather is, understandably, an object of wonder.  It seems, also, that upon closer notice wonders never cease, inspiring awe and sometimes suspicion.

Helleborus (pronounced "hel-leh-BORE-us") is a fine example.  A member of the Ranunculaceae family, Helleborus is a genus of 20 species native to much of Europe, the Mediterranean region, and eastward to China.  The highest concentration can be found in southeastern Europe.  The common name is Hellebore (pronounced "HELL-uh-bore).  Other names given to various species include Christmas Rose, Lenten Rose, and Bear's-Foot.

The exact meaning of Helleborus appears to be a mystery, though I'm speculating that it might be derived from two Greek words, hellas meaning "Greece" and borrhas meaning "the north." It makes sense to me since Helleborus is concentrated in the Balkans.

Medicinal plants inspire awe and sometimes suspicion.  How is it that something possessing the power to heal may also possess the power to kill, at once beneficent and malignant?  Though known to be toxic, various hellebores have been used for many centuries for treatment of insanity, paralysis, gout, cardiac and respiratory ailments, as a diuretic and purgative.

Hellebores have been ascribed with symbolism in art, literature and lore.  In Loves Me, Loves Me Not: The Hidden Language of Flowers, Peter Loewer noted that "they were thought to have magical powers because they bloomed in very cold weather, and if blooms appeared before Christmas it presaged a bountiful year ahead.  Because the roots are not edible, they are thought to contain evil spirits, hence the darker meanings of scandal or slander."

Sydney Dobell (1824-1874), in Balder, mused of "hellebore, like a girl-murderess, green-eyed & sick with jealousy, & white with wintry thoughts of poison."

Finally, hellebores sometimes have the reputation of being very difficult to grow and suitable subjects for expert gardeners only.  Not so.  The most popular species in cultivation is H. orientalis and its hybrids.  Presently, most that are commercially available are simply named H. x hybridus plus whatever the name of the cultivar.  Because it is so easy to grow, the Perennial Plant Association named H. x hybridus the 2005 Perennial Plant of the Year.

Hybrid hellebores are cultivated as deciduous to evergreen ground cover perennials.  Plant height is up to 18".  Foliage is usually dark green and deeply lobed.  Flower colors range from light green or white to shades of pink or burgundy.

They thrive in partial to full shade in USDA climate zones 4 through 9 in slightly moist, well-drained, humusy soils with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.  If exposed to direct sun at all, it should only be in the morning.  Hellebores will tolerate some drought once established.

Plant them in cottage gardens, naturalized in shade gardens and woodland settings where they combine well with ferns, Aquilegia, Convallaria and hostas.  Because of the long history of medicinal use, gardeners who collect medicinal plants often include them in their collections.  The rich history and symbolism are other reasons for growing them.

Again, it's important to note that all parts of Helleborus should be considered very toxic, so treat with appropriate caution.  On a positive note, hellebores are deer-resistant.

It is always a good idea to have your soil tested before cultivating and planting.  Carry a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  For a small fee, you will receive a report on mineral content and pH.

If soil is compacted, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  If the soil is high in organic matter and friable, it may not require cultivation.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil, if necessary.  Incorporate 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 12" to 18" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 3" deep.

The garden inspires a sense of awe, wonder and sometimes solicitude; especially so with Helleborus in the shade.  Experience it.

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Lily-Of-The-Valley: Fragrant And Beautiful

Convallaria - Lily Of The Valley

There is a plant symbolizing sweetness and humility which according to legend sprang from the very tears of Eve that dropped upon the earth when she and Adam were sent away from the Garden of Eden.  Other legends tell that it sprouted from the shed blood of Sts. Leonard or George when battling dragons, or from the tears of The Blessed Virgin Mary as she wept at the foot of the Cross.  The same plant, sometimes pictured in Renaissance paintings, symbolizes the return of Christ when all is restored.

Scripture poetry mentions it:
 
I am a rose of Sharon,

A lily of the valleys.

As a lily among thorns,

So is my love among the daughters. - Canticles, Chapter 2

Thus inspired, the beautiful blooms are sometimes used in bridal bouquets. Would you not be delighted to grow such a wonderful flower in your own garden?

That plant is Convallaria majalis (pronounced "con-vah-LAIR-ee-ah mah-JAY-liss").  Convallaria meaning "of the valley" signifies it's native habitat; majalis meaning "May" refers to its bloom time.  Common names include "Lily-Of-The-Valley", "May Bells" and "Our Lady's Tears."

Convallaria majalis is unique, being the only species in that genus.  It's native to temperate regions in Europe and parts of Asia.  One variety, C. majalis var. montana, may be native to the eastern U.S., but there is some question whether it is in fact a native or introduced.

Lily-Of-The-Valley is cultivated as a deciduous ground cover perennial.  Plant height is up to 9".  Foliage is medium to dark green, but may be variegated.  Sweetly fragrant, pendulous, bell-shaped white to pink flowers bloom for 2 to 3 weeks in late spring to early summer

It thrives in light shade in USDA climate zones 4 through 8 in slightly moist, well-drained, humusy soils with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.5.  If exposed to direct sun at all, it should only be in the morning.  Consistent soil moisture is especially important during bloom period, but the plants are reasonably drought-tolerant during summer months.

Lily-Of-The-Valley is effective in container gardens, fragrance gardens, and naturalized in shade gardens and woodland settings were it combines well with ferns, Aquilegia, Helleborus and hostas.  The plant also has a long history of medicinal use, so gardeners who collect medicinal plants often include it in their collections.  Its rich history and legends, religious symbolism are other reasons for including it in a garden.

It's important to note that all parts of it should be considered very toxic, especially the berries, so treat it with appropriate caution.

If soil is compacted, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  If the soil is high in organic matter and friable, it may not require cultivation.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil, if necessary.  Incorporate 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Lily-Of-The-Valley is very easy to grow from bare-root rhizome divisions or "pips."  Plant them 3" deep and 4" to 6" apart. One method is to place the rhizomes on cultivated soil and cover them with 3" of topsoil.  Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.  When the site is to its liking, Lily-Of-The-Valley spreads rapidly.

It is rich in history, legend, and symbolism.  Fragrant to the nose and beautiful to the eye.  Yet, no significant pests or diseases afflict it.  Deer won't eat it.  Its cultural requirements are few.  For the romantic gardener, Lily-Of-The-Valley is a choice plant.

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Golden Stars At Your Feet

Chrysogoum virginianum - Golden Star

Imagine wandering through an idyllic woodland with aurelian stars at your feet.  That is something like what you experience with Golden Star, properly named Chrysogonum virginianum (pronounced "chris-OG-oh-num vir-gin-ee-AN-num").  Appropriately enough, the name means "gold star from Virginia."  It also goes by another common name: Green-and-gold.  I like "Golden Star" best.

Chrysogonum virginianum is unique, being the only species in that genus.  It's native to the eastern U.S., ranging from Pennsylvania to Ohio and Kentucky, southward to Louisiana, and eastward to north Florida and Georgia.

Goldenstar is cultivated as a ground cover perennial.  Plant height ranges from 6" to 9".  Foliage is semi-evergreen, meaning that the 1" to 3" long leaves remain green in warmer regions.  Dark yellow flowers appear sporadically from spring through summer.

It thrives in full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 5 through 9 in slightly moist, well-drained, humusy soils with slightly acid pH.   Because it needs consistent moisture, partial shade is recommended in the hottest climates, though heat itself is not the issue.

Goldenstar is most effective naturalized in shade gardens and woodland settings.  Though it grows a little tall for a lawn substitute, it will tolerate some foot traffic when established.  Ajuga makes a fine companion plant.  It also combines well with such natives as Violets (Viola spp.) and Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis).

If soil is compacted, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 10" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  If the soil is high in organic matter and friable, it may not require cultivation.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil, if necessary.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 12" to 18" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Because it likes slightly moist, well-drained soil that is high in organic matter, plant Goldenstar with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly and irrigate when necessary.  Goldenstar spreads by sending out runners, much like strawberries.

Chrysogonum has no serious pests or diseases, and it's deer-resistant.  It's a wonderful addition to the native woodland garden.

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Leadwort Has Everything Going For It

Ceratostigma plumbaginoides - Leadwort

Leadwort.  The name doesn't sound very interesting, but it is an impressive ground cover providing wonderful color from spring through fall.  Its botanical name is Ceratostigma plumbaginoides (pronounced "ser-ah-toh-STIG-muh plum-bah-gih-NOY-deez").  It is native to western China.  The genus name refers to the horn-shaped stigma of the flower.  The species name means "similar to plumbago."  The plumbago the botanists had in mind is Plumbago auriculata, a South Africa native plant with light blue flowers.  Well, by golly, if you compare the flowers of C. plumbaginoides and P. auriculata you'll see resemblances in color and shape.  And, wouldn't you know it, they share the same common name, Leadwort, so there are created opportunities for confusion.

The name, Leadwort, comes from the fact that its relative, P. auriculata, was thought to be useful for treating lead poisoning.  I'm not sure how that came to be, but I'm guessing that it had something to do with the "doctrine of signatures", an ancient medical philosophy which taught that plants resembling certain body parts or other things were relevant to treating their afflictions.  So, for example, Hepatica was used to treat liver ailments because the leaf resembles, at some point in its life cycle, a liver.  Well now, if one were looking at the flowers of P. auriculata, he would notice their light, grayish-blue color, and it might occur to him that the color is similar to oxidizing lead.  Therefore, it might be good for treating lead-poisoning.

But Ceratostigma has no known medical value.  It is simply a beautiful plant.  Blue flowers are borne atop low-growing, semi-evergreen plants.  With a touch of cold weather, the foliage turns to rich scarlet, burgundy or bronze, so there is ornamental interest spring to fall.  It is most effective as a ground cover, especially under small trees and in bulb beds.  Though it grows a little tall for a lawn substitute (about 8"), it will tolerate some foot traffic when established.

Ceratostigma thrives in full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 6 through 9 in well-drained soils with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.  It's somewhat drought-tolerant when established.  In the hottest climates, afternoon shade is beneficial.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Add enough soil to raise the bed at least 4" above the surrounding ground level. This will help to promote good drainage. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 12" to 15" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Because it likes well-drained soil, plant Ceratostigma with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between watering.  Over-watering is the most frequent cause of failure.  To encourage dense growth on new stems, mow Ceratostigma to about 4" high in late fall or early winter.  If you use it as a ground cover for a spring bulb bed, mowing will allow the bulbs to show to good advantage.  When the bulb foliage begins to yellow and die, the ground cover growth will help to hide it.

Ceratostigma has no serious pests or diseases.  What's more, deer don't like it.  As mentioned before, the greatest cause of failure is over-watering.

Should you include Ceratostigma in your garden?  Read these reviews by people who grow it, then decide:

"Even though this reportedly is hardy only to Zone 6, if planted in a protected area (moist, well-drained, too) this is certainly hardy in our zone 5A/4B climate. Last winter was particularly rough in terms of zero-minus and no snow cover; lots of gardeners (me too) lost lots of perennials - but this one pulled through with flying colors!  ...it is so prolific as a ground cover! And the colors in late summer through fall are spectacular! The bright blue flowers against the burnt-red foliage is hard to beat!" - Karen, IL

"It is spreading which I don't like. I don't think I like groundcovers anyway."  Ginny, CA

"The only reason this isn't THE most popular groundcover is because it's herbaceous (dies back to the ground each winter.)  Other than that, it's got everything going for it - nice, lush foliage in the spring, turns a wonderful red color in the fall, and has electric blue flowers from mid-summer on." - Terry, TN

"I disagree with that lady from California.  I have a HUGE rectangular garden, with a round center that has creeping red sedum surrounding a bird bath.  In the two squares on either side of the circle are my plumbagoes.  The garden is bricked in, so they can't spread anywhere but in the garden.  Maybe she should try that?  I have them as a main focal point, and are in the biggest area of the garden.  Next to the fence are purple turtleheads? and yellow daylillies alternately, along with hostas that surround my patio.  I'll have to take a picture to show you, but yes!  The plumbagoes are the main attraction.  The bumbles (big black bees) and hummingbirds just love them!" - Ann, IL

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Asters' Glory

When summer flowers begin to fade, asters steal the show. From late summer to fall, these delightful perennials adorn the garden with blankets of color.  Aster (pronounced ASS-ter, meaning "star" referring to the shape of the flower) is a group of over 600 species of flowering plants native to Europe, parts of Asia and North America.  Their late bloom time has earned for some of them the common name "Michaelmas Daisy" for the Christian Feast of St. Michael and All Angels which falls on 29 September.

It would have been far too simple to leave all of the species in one big genus, Aster.  So in the 1990s, after intense observation, almost all of the North American species were spun off into new genera.  Those include Almutaster, Canadanthus, Doellingeria, Eucephalus, Eurybia, Ionactis, Oligoneuron, Oreostemma, Sericocarpus and Symphyotrichum.  Not impressed, most gardeners and aster growers have resisted the new names, preferring to stick with the older one.

You know that summer is waning when asters bloom.  Shades of pink, blue, purple and yellow, and white color the landscape.   As the days shorten, they seem to me at once extravagant and melancholy.

Rose Kingsley observed in The Autumn Garden,

"In the garden, Autumn is, indeed the crowning glory of the year, bringing us the fruition of months of thought and care and toil.  And at no season, safe perhaps in Daffodil time, do we get such superb colour effects as from August to November."

Asters generally thrive in full sun in USDA climate zones 3 through 8 in well-drained soils with pH ranging from 5.1 to 6.5.  The flowers attract butterflies, and bees, but the plants are unattractive to deer.  They are generally heat- and drought-tolerant, therefore are well-suited to exposed perennial gardens, wild-flower gardens, butterfly gardens and xeriscaping.  Because it of its medicinal properties, herb gardeners sometimes include Aster tartaricus in their collections.  Gardeners interested in native species have many to choose from.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep.  Add enough soil to raise the bed at least 4" above the surrounding ground level. This will help to promote good drainage. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space asters 12" to 18" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Because it likes well-drained soil, plant asters with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between watering.  Occasional pruning helps to maintain compact plants and produces more blooms.

Asters have their afflictions including fungi, nematodes and various insects.  But good gardening practices such as providing good air circulation, removal of dead and diseased material can help to prevent them .

Many of us plan our gardens around spring and summer.  There is nothing wrong with that.  But it would be a shame to neglect shades of autumn.  Asters, by whatever name, add richness to the landscape.  Be sure to include some in your late garden for the crowning glory of the year.

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Aspidistras Are Practically Immortal

Aspidistra elatior - Cast Iron Plant

As I stroll through cities from Washington, DC to Fort Myers, FL and westward to Dallas, TX, I can't resist glancing between buildings, through gates, over fences and walls to see what's growing.  Very often there's not much to see; the average landscape does not look like something to be featured in a national magazine.  But there are usually a few things worth noting; aspidistras are often among them.

In the narrow, bleak spaces between city townhouses, crowded around gas meters and covered with dust, you'll find aspidistras.  In dry, thin soil under trees they thrive.  Stuffed in neglected pots, they wait for someone to come and dribble a little water; often just a styrofoam cup of melted ice and lemon slice.  Yellowed by too much sun, ragged from neglect, they persist.  Often they are as neglected indoors, or worse.  Orwell's description of one in his novel Keep The Aspidistra Flying is apt:

"It was a peculiarly mangy specimen. It had only seven leaves and never seemed to put forth any new ones. Gordon had a sort of secret feud with the aspidistra. Many a time he had furtively attempted to kill it--starving it of water, grinding hot cigarette-ends against its stem, even mixing salt with its earth. But the beastly things are practically immortal. In almost any circumstances they can preserve a wilting, diseased existence."

Despite its treatment, Aspidistra (pronounced ass-pi-DIS-truh, meaning "shield-like") is a noble genus.  It boasts over 90 known species native to Asian forests from east India to China and Japan.  The bold leaves inspired its name.  They arise, stemless, from underground rhizomes.    Flowers are insignificant.

Aspidistra elatior (pronounced ee-LAY-tee-or, meaning "taller") is the most popular.  In fact, it is the only one known to most gardeners.  It is also known as Cast-Iron Plant or Bar-Room Plant, signifying its toughness.  The dark green leaves, 4" wide, may grow to over 30" in height.  Variegated cultivars are not unknown.  It is drought tolerant and deer-resistant.  Use it in in partial shade to full shade in USDA climate zones 7 to 11.  It prefers well-drained, acid soil with pH ranging from 4.5 to 5.5.

Before planting, take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  For a small fee, they can run a lab test and tell you what your soil may need.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil.  If you choose to use synthetic fertilizer, incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 3 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 8" of soil.  Aspidistra cooperates with kindness.  Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space them 24" to 36" apart.   Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than that of the growing containers.  Water the plants in their pots.  Place them into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the roots. Do not cover the top of the root mass with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed.

Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 3" deep.  The mulch helps retain soil moisture, so you can water less frequently.  It also helps suppress weeds.  Though quite drought tolerant, there's no need to abuse.  Irrigate when necessary, but allow the soil to dry between watering.

Aspidistra lends a wonderful tropical appearance to the home and landscape.  Considering that and its few requirements, you should include Cast-Iron Plant in your garden and home.

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Hypericum Lifts The Spirits

Hypericum calycinum - St John's Wort - Aaron's Beard

Hypericum (pronounced hi-PER-ee-kum), also known as St. John's Wort or Aaron's Beard, is a genus of herbaceous annuals and perennials of about 400 species.  With so many species, it should not surprise that they are distributed almost world-wide.  Fewer than 100 species are much cultivated.  Less than two dozen of those are commercially available.  I will focus on one, Hypericum calycinum, which is native to Turkey and parts of eastern Europe.

The name, Hypericum, refers to its being hung above pictures or "icons" to repel evil.  The species name, calycinum (pronounced ka-LEE-kin-um), refers to the prominent calyx at the base of the flower.  The common name, St. John's Wort, refers to St. John The Baptist, whose Birthday Feast in June roughly coincides with the beginning of Hypericum's bloom time.  It's possible that there is also some connection to his imprisonment.  The name, Aaron's Beard, refers to the very prominent, hairy-looking stamens of the flower.

Since antiquity, Hypericum has been used for medicinal purposes.  H. perforatum is most potent.  Taken internally, it's supposed to treat depression.  Used externally, the aromatic oil is said to possess antibiotic properties and to aid in healing wounds, burns and concussions.   Having grown up in a family of herbalists, I remember the plant being often pointed out to us.  It is important to note, however, that self-treatment is not advised.  St. John's Wort may interact badly with other drugs and cause hypersensitivity to light.

Oval-shaped foliage covers shrubby stems up to 18" high.  An abundance of butter-yellow flowers continue for several weeks during the summer.  Foliage color is medium to light green during growing season blushed with burgundy in fall.  In warmer areas of its range, leaves are evergreen.  In colder regions, they turn brown but persist through winter.

The plant covers ground very well, so is excellent for erosion control in medium to large areas.  It is also very useful in perennial gardens and borders.  Hypericum is truly a ground cover plant for all seasons.  It's deer resistant, too.

St. John's Wort is hardy in USDA climate zones 5 through 9, though it produces fewer blooms in zone 9.  It thrives in full sun to partial shade in average, slightly-moist, well-drained soil, but tolerates dry conditions quite well.  Recommended pH ranges from slightly acid to slightly alkaline.  Maintenance needs are few.  Trimming it to 6" height in early spring will stimulate lush re-growth.

Before planting, take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  For a small fee, they can run a lab test and tell you what your soil may need.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep.   If your site is not well-drained, add enough soil to raise the bed about 4" above the surrounding ground level.  Fertilizer may be used. If you choose to do so, incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant St. John's Wort 12" to 15" apart, or farther. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in their pots.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the roots, but do not cover the top of the root mass which should remain slightly exposed.

Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" deep.  The mulch helps retain soil moisture, so you can water less frequently.  It also helps suppress weeds.

Irrigate when necessary until the planting is established, but allow the soil to dry between watering.  Keep the bed weed-free until the ground cover begins to suppress weed growth on its own.

Though St. John's Wort has been used as an anti-depressant, it lifts my spirits just to see it in bloom.   Given its historical interest, beautiful showy flowers, and easy cultivation, I believe it will please you, too.

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Pachysandra - A Ground Cover Of Choice

Pachysandra terminalis - Japanese Spurge

Pachysandra (pronounced pak-ih-SAND-ruh), commonly called Spurge, is a genus of 4 species that are native to Asia and the U.S.  The genus, a member of the Buxaceae or Boxwood family, is named for its thick stamens.

It's a solution plant for a common landscape problem:  too much shade.  Pachysandra loves shade.  It spreads quickly, too, doing what a ground cover is supposed to do; it covers ground beautifully.  For that reason, pachysandra is the ground cover of choice in some areas.

Of the four species, only two are of commercial importance.

Pachysandra procumbens (pronounced pro-KUM-benz), known as Allegheny Spurge, is native mostly to the southeastern U.S.  Procumbens means "on the ground".  Its distribution roughly follows the Appalachian range, from parts of Florida through Georgia, Alabama, the Carolinas, Tennessee, Kentucky and Pennsylvania.  But it also occurs in some parts of Louisiana, Mississippi and Indiana.  As a side note, I'll mention here that the geological foot of the Appalachians does reach into north Florida around Tallahassee.

Plant height is up to 12".  Mature leaf length is about 4", with toothed margin.  White flowers are insignificant.

It thrives in USDA climate zones 4 through 9 in well-drained but consistently moist soil high in organic matter.  Recommended pH ranges from 5.1 to 6.0.  Full sun may be tolerated in the cooler regions of its range, otherwise grow it in full sun to partial shade.

P. terminalis (pronounced term-in-AL-iss), known as Japanese Spurge, is native also China and Japan.  Insignificant white flowers are produced at the terminal ends of the stems.  Plant height is under 12".  Mature leaf is 3" to 5", with toothed margin.  Foliage is glossier than P. procumbens.

Its cultural requirements are similar to P. procumbens, but it tolerates lower pH levels from 4.0 to 6.0 and drier soil conditions.  In fact, P. terminalis is reasonably drought-tolerant.  Do not over-water.  As with P. procumbens, full sun is tolerated in cooler regions of its range.  Having said that, I recommend partial to full shade for I've observed that the foliage tends to yellow if grown in full sun.

Begin by taking a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  For a nominal fee they will provide a helpful analysis and recommend any necessary improvements.

Pachysandra can be planted almost any time of year so long that the ground is not frozen.  Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Add plenty of organic matter such as compost, peat moss or humus.  If used at all, incorporate 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space 12" to 18" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

If planting bare root spurge, plant them no deeper than their original growing depth.  You can usually determine this by inspecting the plant stem.  There should be a change in tissue color and texture at the original soil level.  When adding soil around the plant, lightly tamp the soil to remove air pockets, or add water to help settle the soil.  Add mulch.

For the first year until plants become established, monitor moisture levels in the soil.  Though P. terminalis is drought-tolerant, young plants should not be allowed to dry out.  Water both species deeply and slowly enough to allow the water to soak in.

Though pachysandra is frequently used, it is certainly not humdrum.  It covers ground and does it well.  The foliage is beautiful; its needs are few.  Our native species is perfect for moist areas, the Asian species is great for drier places.  The choice should be easy.

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