Sedum: Hidden Jewels Of The Plant Kingdom

Sedums are hidden jewels of the plant kingdom: easily overlooked, but enchanting for those who seek them out. Get on your hands and knees and take a close look! You'll see what I mean. My grandmother loved sedums; all of them. They spilled out of planters and into the grass. She tucked them into the tightest crevices of stone walls where they thrived in the barest patches of available soil.

Their ability to thrive in almost any area contributed to their nicknames “stonecrop” and “graveyard moss”. Sedums are incredibly popular, but not visually redundant because there are so many varieties. They vary in foliage, flower, and growth habit ranging from mats only a few inches high to plants 2 feet high. Sedums are often used as edging plants, in rock gardens, on slopes, between stepping stones and in containers.

All of them are perennials with thick, succulent, water-storing leaves that make them very drought tolerant. They grow quickly in full sun and in almost any poor soil type as long as it is slightly acidic and well-drained. Sandy or rocky soil is ideal. If taller varieties are planted in rich soil or shade they will be tall, lanky and topple. Most varieties attract butterflies and other pollinators.

Plant Sedums about 10” apart. Pint sized plants usually mature within the year. Sedum should be divided every 3 to 4 years to maintain compactness and older plants will split in the center if undivided. Seed heads need to be pruned only once after all the blooms have finished, but they can be left over winter to provide food for birds. Remove seed heads in the spring when new growth shows. In the spring, you can propagate through stem cutting or division. It’s easy to pull a rosette off the main plant and transplant the small rosette to a new area in the garden. Let the ground dry between irrigations. Lower growing varieties tend to be dense and choke out weeds.

Sedum is seldom bothered by pests including deer and rabbit because of its peppery taste. Slugs, nematodes and aphids can be problematic if unchecked, but are easy to control.

Several varieties I think are particularly eye-catching include:

S. x ‘Autumn Fire’ - A Canadian import that looks just like ‘Autumn Joy’ but has denser foliage and brighter pink color. It’s 30” tall in bloom and spreads 2’ in Zones 3-9.

S. x ‘Autumn Joy’ - Grows 3’ high in bloom and 2’ wide in Zones 3-9. Green, flat and spiky foliage, which mounds up to 1’ high, produces long stalks and 4” wide broccoli-like blooms. Beginning in July, flowers then turn pink, red and rusty-red through the fall. Butterflies adore this plant.

S. x ‘Vera Jameson’ - Hardy in Zones 3-9 it grows up to 8” high and 18” wide. Nice clumpy succulent bluish-green foliage turns purple in autumn and gets 4” pink blooms in late summer. Bold fall season color.

S. kamtschaticum var. floriferum ‘Weihenstephaner Gold’ - Dark green ovoid leaves sprout low clusters of yellow blooms from May to September. Grows 5” tall and spreads 1’.

S. makinoi ‘Ogon’ - Native to Japan, it grows best in Zones 7 to 9. Attaining a 2” height and 12” width, it is ideal for potting, takes the heat and looks good all summer. Blooming in August, its tiny nearly yellow foliage looks like gold pebbles on the ground.

S. reflexum 'Blue Spruce' - Grows in Zones 3 to 9. Semi-evergreen half inch, but thick blue-green leaves whorl around linear stems that sprout stalks topped with 1” bright yellow flower clusters. Gets 10” tall when in bloom from June to August.

S. rupestre ‘Angelina’ - Grows 3-6” tall with a 1’ spread in Zones 4-9. This golden ground cover with citrus yellow shoots sort of resembles a glowing pinecone. Butterflies and bees like it. Invaluable for the stone garden, it blooms July to September.

S. sarmentosum 'Yellow Moss' - The main plant has thick ovoid green leaves, but produces radiating branches of slim leaves under pointy bright yellow flowers. One of the toughest sedums, it typically grows where ever you throw it. Gets 5” in high with unbridled spread. Blooms late spring to early summer.

S. sieboldii ‘October Daphne’ - Flat blue green foliage grows around the stem in groups of three. Has pink flowers in late summer through early fall. The whole plant turns pink during cold weather and it grows up to 1’ tall in Zones 3-10.

S. spurium ‘Dragon's Blood’ - One plant produces a 6” tall mat can spread up to 3’, so plant them 18” apart. Produces taller head-turning red blooms in late summer. Its burgundy leaves turn burnt orange in the fall. Hardy in Zones 4-9.

S. spurium ‘Fuldaglut’ - Green/bronze fleshy whorled foliage turn burgundy in fall and produces pink blooms in late summer. In Zones 4-8 it grows 6” tall and 8” wide.

S. spurium ‘John Creech’ - Has a moderate growth rate. Only 3” tall it can spread well over a foot. Its small scalloped bright green leaves have clusters of lavender flowers in the fall.

S. spurium ‘Tricolor’ - A low growing (4” tall) variety that spreads up to 15” in Zones 3-9. Variegated sage green, white and pink foliage produce pink to mauve blooms in June and July.

S. tetractinum 'Chinese Sedum' - Flat, round, green summer foliage turns reddish bronze in fall and produces bright yellow flower clusters. Only 3” tall, it spreads 1’ in Zones 4-8.

Maybe my grandmother liked lots of color or maybe she just liked abundant no-fuss plants. She found Sedums to be perfect landscape plants for her home. I bet you will too.

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Lantana: Flitting Among The Flowers

Lantanas get going when the weather is hot and kids are chasing barefoot, bustin' through the shrubbery. My earliest childhood memories of Lantana are of bright colors, the spicy minty fragrance of the foliage, throwing the little berries at my brother, butterflies flitting among the flowers, and tiny sweaty tingles on my arms and legs.

Lantanas are tropical woody shrubs native to Africa and the Americas, deciduous in cooler regions but evergreen in the warmest. Most are cold-hardy only in USDA climate zones 9 through 11. Some are cold-hardy into zones 7 or 8. In zones 7 and 8, the tops are killed by winter, but the roots usually survive to re-grow the following summer. Lantanas are grown as annuals in northern climates.

Lantana camara, Lantana montevidensis, and their hybrids produce loads of small flowers of multi-colors in bright clusters called umbels throughout the summer. The flowers, of course, attract the butterflies. Lantanas may grow from 12" to 48" high, and 24" to 48" wide, or more. They like warm weather and well-drained soil in sunny places, and are quite drought tolerant. Lantanas need very little tending, which is another reason why they are so popular in hot climate zones. After all, who wants to get out in this heat? They do so well that in some parts of the tropical world they have made pests of themselves. But don't worry; planting them in your yard shouldn't cause problems.

As already mentioned, Lantanas flower prolifically, which is the main reason they are grown. The flowers may bear clusters of a single color or many colors together. And they attract butterflies: alfalfa butterflies, buckeyes, pearl crescents, skippers, swallowtails and zebra heliconians among them.

Taller growing varieties serve well in perennial gardens and shrub borders. The low, spreading ones are superb as colorful ground cover plants, even providing erosion control on slopes. They also do well in containers, planters and patio gardens.

For gardeners who are bothered by browsers, Lantana are deer resistant. Apparently they are turned off by the fragrance, the tiny hairs that cover stems and leaves, or toxic properties of leaf and berry. The fragrance is pleasant, but sensitive gardeners may wear gloves and long sleeves when working around them due to the roughness hairs. Gardeners with small children should prevent them from munching the fruit.

To plant Lantanas, choose a site in full sun with good drainage. Eliminate weeds, if they exist. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil, but it may not be necessary. Lantanas that are fed heavily will produce lush stem and foliage at the expense of flowers. For that reason, fertilizer should be used sparingly. If fertilized at all, use something like a 5-10-15 analysis. Avoid allowing synthetic fertilizers to come into contact with the plants. Depending upon the mature size of the plant, space them 24" to 48" apart.

Though Lantanas are drought tolerant, occasional irrigation is beneficial. Not only will it encourage new growth and flowering, over-head irrigation discourages spider mites. Spider mites can cause damage to many types of plants during drought conditions. But they hate water, so a little sprinkling will encourage them to move on.

As the plants age with summer, Lantanas may bloom less. Deadheading (removing flower clusters that have dried or gone to fruit) will encourage new growth. Pruning branches back several inches will do the same.

Frost will kill Lantana foliage. Consistently cold weather will kill the plants. But in marginal climate zones, like USDA zone 8b, the roots may survive the winter, especially if mulched. In that case, the naked or dead branches should be cut back to within a few inches of the soil line. They will usually sprout and grow back in late spring.

As with most plants, certain pests can cause damage. Spider mites, caterpillars, whiteflies, nematodes, aphids and mealy bugs can take their toll, but they are seldom destructive enough to be of major concern. As mentioned before, over-head irrigation discourages mites. The others can be treated using commercially available organic or synthetic pesticides. Diseases such as leaf spot, mildew, rust and wilt are usually infrequent and preventable. Soggy soil causes root rot and death. Insufficient sunlight contributes to leaf diseases.

There are many cultivars of Lantana. The following are worth considering:

• 'Athens Rose' - Flowers pink, magenta, yellow. Grows to 36" tall and as wide. Cold hardy to USDA climate zone 7.
• 'Carnival' - Flowers lavender, pink, red and yellow. Grows 24" tall and to 48" wide.
• 'Chapel Hill' (PPAF) - A new introduction by Plant Introductions, Inc. Flowers yellow. Grows 24" tall and 48" wide. Cold hardy to USDA climate zone 7.
• 'Confetti' - Flowers pink, purple and yellow. Grows to 36" tall and to 96" wide.
• 'Dallas Red' - Flowers red and yellow. Grows 36" to 48" tall and as wide.
• 'Kathleen' - Flowers pink and yellow. Grows 24" tall and up to 72" wide.
• 'Miss Huff' - Flowers orange, pink and yellow. Grows to 60" tall and up to 120" wide. A 2003 Georgia Gold Medal Winner.
• 'Mozelle' - Flowers pink, red and yellow. Grows to 24" tall and as wide. Does not require deadheading. Cold hardy to USDA climate zone 7.
• 'New Gold' - Flowers yellow. Grows to 36" tall and to 48" wide. A 1995 Georgia Gold Medal Winner.
• 'Radiation' - Flowers orange and red. Grows to 60" tall and as wide.
• 'Silver Mound' - Flowers white. Grows 24" tall and 30" wide. Cold hardy to USDA climate zone 7.
• 'Trailing Purple' - Flowers lilac pink to purple. Grows to 24" tall and 48" wide. Cold hardy to USDA climate zone 9.

If you are choosing Lantana primarily to attract butterflies, you may be interested in this paper from Auburn University, Butterfly Feeding Preferences among Cultivars of Lantana camara in the Landscape, a Commonly Recommended Nectar Source by L.L. Bruner, D.J. Eakes, G.J. Keever, J.W. Baier, C.Stuart-Whitman, P.R. Knight, and J.E. Altland.  The researchers tested a selection of cultivars and identified some most attractive to the little creatures. 'New Gold', and 'Radiation' were among the best.

Gardeners, especially those in the south, who wish to bring butterflies up-close should include Lantanas in their landscapes. They are colorful, sun and heat loving, drought tolerant, deer resistant, and require little care.

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Anemones: Born Of The Wind

"Anemone" translated from Greek, means "wind", for it was believed that spring winds caused them to bloom. They are native to the Mediterranean region where winters are warm and summers are dry. There they have a rich heritage in legend and history. Three species are widely available: A. blanda, A. coronaria and A. sylvestris.

Anemone blanda is known as Grecian Wind Flower. The name evokes scenes of ancient temples, and rocky hills swept by Mediterranean breezes. Certainly, the scene gives a clue to its preferred habitat. A. blanda is reliably hardy in USDA climate zones 6 through 8. Full sun to partial shade is best; morning sun to light shade throughout the day in southern regions. Well-drained soil is essential. The plant naturalizes readily to spread a spring-time carpet of light blue, pink or white daisy-like flowers on 6" to 8" stems. The fern-like foliage is also quite attractive. In addition to naturalizing, Anemone blanda is desirable for bulb and rock gardens, perennial borders, container and patio gardens.

Anemone coronaria is known as Poppy Anemone or Florist's Anemone. The flower shape and size is very much like that of a poppy. There are two groups of Poppy Anemone widely available: De Caen and St. Brigid. De Caen anemones produce flowers in bright shades of red, white, blue and pink. St. Brigid anemones produce double-petal flowers in the same shades. A. coronaria is not as cold-tolerant as A. blanda, being reliably hardy in USDA climate zones 8 through 10. However, it tolerates heat much better. Sun exposure and soil moisture requirements for A. coronaria are the same as for A. blanda. These are excellent for bulb and cutting gardens, perennial borders, container and patio gardens

Though anemones prefer warm climates, they can be enjoyed by gardeners in cooler regions. Planting season for southern gardeners is in the fall. Planting season for northern gardeners is in the spring. Logically, they are commercially available both times of year.

When you receive them, the tubers will be shriveled and dry. That is normal. Simply soak them over-night in water at room temperature before planting.

As noted, the planting site should be well-drained and in full sun to partial shade.

Plant the tubers 6" to 10" apart and 1" to 3" deep, depending upon the size. Sometimes it's difficult to tell which side is up. Don't worry about it, they will re-orient themselves.

Water thoroughly but gently, taking care not to wash the bulbs to the surface. If planted in the fall, the roots will develop throughout the cool months and flowers will appear in spring. If planted in the spring, the flowers will appear.

Water as needed to maintain slightly moist soil during spring and fall. Anemones are drought-tolerant during summer.

Flowering lasts about four weeks. When blooming is completed, let the foliage remain to build food reserves for next year. Foliage may be removed when it yellows and dies back at the end of summer. Take care to leave the bulbs undisturbed. After a few months of dormancy, they will begin another growth cycle.

If you are one of those who tries to stretch the limits of where a plant might be grown successfully, know that Anemone coronaria (De Caen and St. Brigid) benefit from a covering of mulch in USDA climate zones 7 & 8. Anemone blanda benefit from a covering of mulch in USDA climate zones 3 & 4. If you don't want to risk losing them during your cold winters, lift them after the foliage has fallen, then dry and store them over winter.

As mentioned before, anemones do well in pots and patio gardens. Choose containers with adequate drainage. To improve drainage, place 1" or 2" of styrofoam packing "popcorn" in the bottom of the container. Fill the container with good quality potting soil. Position containers where they will receive full sun to partial shade.

Plant the tubers 2" to 3" apart. Again, it is not necessary to consider which side is supposed to be up. After planting, water well, thoroughly and gently soaking the soil.

When blooming is completed, let the foliage remain to build food reserves. Leaves may be removed when dried at the end of summer. Take care to leave the bulbs undisturbed in the pots. After a few months of dormancy, they will begin another growth cycle.

If the containers are kept in an area where cold weather is excessive (USDA climate zones 7 & 8 for A. coronaria, or zones 3 & 4 for A. blanda), they should be moved to where they can be protected.

Anemone sylvestris, also known as Snowdrop Anemone, is a low-growing, low maintenance perennial that you'll love. It produces fragrant, bright white blooms with yellow centers from spring to early summer. Flowers may appear again in fall. Mature height is 12 inches to 18 inches. Dense, herbaceous, fern-like foliage makes a fine ground cover perfect for covering yellowing foliage of spring bulbs. Anemone sylvestris is considered to be an heirloom plant, known to have been grown in the U.S. since the 1700s.

Anemone sylvestris prefers average, well-drained soil with pH from 4.6 to 6.0 in full sun to partial shade. Dead-heading helps to prolong bloom season. Good for USDA climate zones 2 to 9. Space 12 inches to 18 inches apart.

If you've never grown anemones before, you should do so. Their beauty and historic legacy will lend color and interest to your gardening experience.

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Ornamental Allium - Fireworks In The Summer Garden

Ornamental onions and garlic are from the genus Allium (AL-lee-um). Allium is classified in family Alliaceae although some classifications have included it in the lily family (Liliaceae). With about 1250 species, it is one of the largest plant genera in the world. These perennial bulbous plants produce chemical compounds that give them a characteristic onion or garlic taste and odor. Many are used as food plants. Ornamental allium has its origins in Central Asia and the Mediterranean area.

When I was growing up, our neighbors planted rows of ornamental Allium along the fence that divided our yards. Every spring we could see glimpses of these flowering fireworks through the chain link fence. We had no lack of bees and butterflies that these perennials attracted.

Allium has shiny, glossy foliage and produces 12" - 48" high leafless stalks upon which sit tufted globes of color. The late spring and early summer blooms typically have great potential for cut flower production. The blooms last much longer in a vase than your typical flower. This plant attracts bees, butterflies and birds, but disinterests deer and rodents. It doesn't have any pest problems. The dried flower heads can provide winter visual interest.

Before you plant this carefree item let's go over the basics. Allium has average water needs so it will need regular watering but it doesn't swim. Allium is very heat tolerant, but if it wilts it's in trouble. It requires sun to partial shade, like full p.m. sun. In general, Allium is hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 -10. Only in zones 3 and 4 do they require mulch to get through the winter. If you plant them in containers where the bulbs are more exposed, just bring them in so they're not outside below 10°F. I haven't heard of Allium being unable to grow in any pH soil types.

When you plant Allium in the fall you must focus on the variety and the size of the bulb to ensure it is spaced correctly. With those details in mind, choose a site that receives proper sun exposure and where the soil drains well. Prepare a hole three times the circumference of your bulb. Therefore, a 2" bulb should be planted 6" deep, a 3" bulb planted 9" deep, etc... If planting a group of bulbs, space the holes 4" to 12" apart depending upon the varieties' sizes. Position the bulb in the hole with the pointed end up and cover it with the soil. After soaking it in, you may spread mulch over the entire planting area if you'd like. Compost or wood chips also work well. Synthetic fertilizer should not come into contact with the bulbs because it will burn them. Similarly, fertilizer placed on the soil just above the bulbs will cause damage.

Deadhead flowers to encourage more blooms unless you want the seeds or wish to dry them to use in dried flower arrangements. Although ornamental alliums are edible I wouldn't eat them. Just enjoy their beauty.

With nearly 400 ornamental allium species to choose from, it's easy to find one that fits into any garden. These sun-loving flowers look like cheerful lollipops bouncing in the wind, or fireworks displays in the garden. I've listed my favorites (the best ones) below.

A. aflatunense: Produces purple flowers in May and that last two to three weeks. Plants are 24" - 36" inches tall with large, multi-flowered umbels. Planting them 3" apart, or nine per square foot. Full sunlight to PM only sunlight. Only those of you in Zone 3 will need to mulch.

A. christophii: Also known as the Star of Persia. As the bootstrap leaves wither, A. christophii sends up stout stems topped by 8" -10" airy amethyst spherical heads that are almost too big and too beautiful to be real. If you plant them in a group surrounded by leafy long lasting green foliage of another perennial, passersby will have to stop to look. Blooms June and is hardy to Zone 4.

A. caeruleum: These 12" to 24" high plants produce vivid blue multi-flowered umbels that look stunning in front of a white picket fence or white siding. It flowers in May or June and blooms last two to three weeks. The bulbs usually aren't big and can be planted 2" apart with 15 - 25 bulbs per square foot. Hardy in Zone 4 with mulch, Zones 5 to 7 hardy without mulch. Zone 3 misses out. Full sunlight only.

A. giganteum: A spectacular beauty of lilac-purple flowers on 3' to 4' tall stalks. Flowers in June and July and blooms for up to three weeks. It is native to the Himalayas. These giant 6" - 9" flower-heads open green, then turn deep violet. Easy to grow and very heat-tolerant. Plant them 12" apart or one bulb per sq. ft. in full sunlight to PM only sunlight. USDA Climate Zone 3 with mulch, Zones 4 to 7 without mulch.

A. x Gladiator: Another fantastic one with 4" to 5" bluish-purple globe shaped flowers. Blooms in summer on strong 36" to 48" stems in full sun, well drained soil and with minimal water. A great cut flower. Grow happily in Zones 4 - 8. They are dramatic planted at the back of the border behind lower growing perennials.

A. aflatunense Globemaster: Can't wait to have fluffy 8" violet poofballs in your garden? Plant in fall 3" apart to have flowers in late spring that last two to three weeks. Plants are 24" - 36" tall with large, multi-flowered umbels. Full sunlight to PM only sunlight. Climatic Zone 3 with mulch, Zones 4 to 7 without mulch. Because it's sterile, it puts all its energy into producing more flowers instead of making seeds - and you enjoy the difference! Ideal combined with low-growing, mounding perennials.

A. sphaerocephalon Hair: For something unique and fun, plant 'Hair'. With its free-form style and bright green color, is a bold addition to any garden.

A karataviense: It has wide, blue-green leaves and short flower stalks with golf ball-sized spheres of white, pale pink or pink. Flowers in May and lasts 2-3 weeks. Plants are 10" - 12" tall and have sweetly scented florets. Plant them 6" - 12" apart. Mulch if you live in Climatic Zone 3 and Zones 4 to 7 without mulch. Full sunlight to PM only sunlight.

A. karataviense Ivory Queen: Broad blue-gray foliage shows off the blooms to beautiful effect. Only 6" to 9" inches tall, the plants have masses of fragrant six inch white florets in early summer. Full sun or partial shade. Because they're small they're good for pots in Zone 3 but don't need mulch in Zones 4 - 8.

A. moly: Yellow flowers appear in spring and lasts 2 - 3 weeks. Plants are 10" - 12" tall with a loose sphere of yellow flowers that have a slight garlic fragrance. They're actually native to Southern Europe. Plant A. moly 2" - 3" inches apart with mulch in Zone 3. Hardy through Zone 4-7. Full sunlight to PM only sunlight and can be grown in dry shade.

A. x Mount Everest: Plant the mountain's majesty in your yard against a dark background. It will highlight the five inch snowy white orbs on their 36" tall stems. Desired by gardeners, butterflies and bees. ‘Mt. Everest's’ long strapping leaves last until flowering time. Blooms May – June. Hardy to zone 4.

A. neapolitanum: Plants are 15" tall with a loose bunch of bright white flowers and last two to three weeks. They like to be about 4"apart. Climatic Zone 7 with mulch and Zones 8 to 10 without mulch. Full sunlight only.

A. oreophilum: Synonymous with A. ostrowskianum, A. oreophilum flowers in spring and also lasts 2 - 3 weeks. Plants are 10" - 12" inches tall with a loose 5" head of red flowers. Climatic Zone 3 with mulch, 4 to 7 without mulch. Planting density: 2" - 3" inches apart. Full sunlight to PM only sunlight.

A. aflatunense Purple Sensation: As the name suggests you'll get deep purple flowers on this May bloomer that will last 3 weeks. Plants are 24" - 36" tall with 3" flowerheads. But no worries, each head has up to 50 blooms! Punctuate your garden with purple! Planting density: 3" apart even in dry, hot soil. Easily self-sows. Full sunlight to PM only sunlight. Climatic Zone 3 with mulch, Zones 4 to 7 without mulch.

A. schubertii: The lilac-pink blooms on these bloomstems are irregular in length and truly look like fireworks, unlike other Allium which have a solid ball of color. Up to 200 miniature star-styled flowers shoot out in all different lengths from the flower's center. And they're famously fragrant. Blooms May – June. Pedicels grow 12" - 18". Give A. schubertii full sun and well-drained, even dry, soil. Plant the large bulbs 4" deep and about 8" apart. Hardy to Zone 5.

A. siculum: Synonymous with A. bulgaricum and Nectaroscordum siculum. A treasured favorite for more than 300 years in southern France. Just the thing for the water-saving garden, this carefree Allium shoots up 2-1/2' to 3' tall and crowns itself with a dozen or more blooms. These full sun flowers are unusual with their green-white base and heavy maroon markings. The large bloom clusters arch and cascade down and out for a great visual effect. Requiring very little summer moisture and grows heartily in Zones 4 - 9.

A. sphaerocephalon: Also known as Drumsticks, this is an eye and bee-catching wonder from its crimson-purple 2 inch wide blooms all the way down to its narrow grassy leaves. Blooms later than most Allium from July–August. Hardy to Zone 5, it gets about 24" to 30" tall.

Need to save water? Plant Allium. Want a carefree plant? Plant Allium. Want color, height and compliments? Plant Allium.

Purchase these bulbs now while quantities last to plant in this Autumn's garden! Next year this time you'll be enjoying nature's fireworks. You'll definitely want a full display.

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Butterfly Gardening To Renew Your Sense of Wonder

There is something about a butterfly that stirs in adults the sense of wonder that children feel. The colors and fluttering wings excite us and invite a closer look. They seem so ephemeral and free.
But butterflies have a rough time of it. When fields become malls and open spaces become home sites, some habitat is lost. When pesticides are used, they may fall victim. And I can't begin to tell you how many I've washed from my windshield and grill.

Maybe, then, planting a butterfly garden would be the right thing to do. Butterfly gardens help establish new habitats and improve the ecosystem. What is more, they bring these beauties into view so we can experience that lost sense of wonder.
A proper butterfly garden needs the following:

• Sun. Butterflies enjoy it because the warmth invigorates them. In addition, many of their favorite nectar-producing plants grow best in sunny locations.
• Flowers. Butterflies need blooms that produce nectar.
• Host plants. There are two kinds to consider: those that provide a place to lay eggs, and those that provide food for caterpillars. Some plants may serve both purposes. You'll have to tolerate chewing damage on them. Better yet, learn to love it.
• Water. A very shallow puddle or spot of mud that is consistently wet will be much appreciated.
• The butterfly garden must also be pesticide-free.

When designing the butterfly garden, remember that it is for them, not just for you. So you may have to abandon some of your aesthetic preferences. You see, some of the best nectar plants are not all that attractive. Many are, in fact, weeds. Butterflies don't care what the garden looks like. A colorful jumble will suit them just fine. And, like most of us, they just can't get enough of a good thing. You'll need to either plant your butterfly garden apart from your vegetable or flower garden, or learn to look at some weeds through different eyes.

Butterflies seem to prefer plants native their local habitat, so consider them first. This means you may want to do a little research to determine which native plants to include. But if you don't have the time or inclination to do so, worry not. Butterflies will adapt just fine to non-native plants.
Here is a list of some native plants that attract butterflies:

• Asclepias incarnata, A. syriaca, A. tuberosa. These are commonly known as Milkweed or Butterfly Weed.
• Aster spp. These include the New England Asters, Michaelmas Daisys, and many others.
• Bidens spp. Commonly known as Tickseed.
• Clethra alnifolia. This lovely shrub produces long-lasting clusters of sweet-smelling flowers that you'll also enjoy.
• Echinacea purpurea. Coneflower. Many new varieties of this native beauty are often introduced, but 'Magnus' and 'White Swan' are very reliable.
• Eupatorium spp. These include Queen-Of-The-Meadow and Joe Pye Weed. Both are stately additions to the perennial garden.
• Itea virginica. Also known as Virginia Sweetspire. With a lot of ornamental potential, it begs to be included in the landscape.
• Liatris spp. Blazing Star. It's a favorite for cutting and flower arrangements.
• Lobelia spp. Cardinal Flower (L. cardinalis) is one of my favorites.
• Verbena spp. This genus includes natives, non-natives and naturalized species. Brazilian Verbena, Homestead Purple, Homestead Pink, Peruvian Verbena, Ron Deal and others.
• Vernonia noveboracensis. Also known as New York Ironweed.

Here is a list of some non-native plants that attract butterflies:

• Asclepias curassavica. Another known as Butterfly Weed.
• Gomphrena globosa. Globe Amaranth.
• Lantana spp. Often grown as annuals in colder climates, they survive as perennials in southern states. New Gold is extremely popular, but other good ones include Miss Huff, Trailing Purple, etc.
• Mentha spp. Mint. Many are available and are as delicious to humans as to butterflies.
• Pentas lanceolata. These are treated as annuals in northern states, but grow as perennials in warmer climates.
• Tagetes patula. Marigolds.
• Tithonia spp. Mexican sunflower.
• Zinnia. This delightful annual needs no introduction. So easy a child can grow them.

As I mentioned earlier, butterflies need host plants for food and a place to lay their eggs. Here is a short list.

• Antirrhinum majus. Snapdragon. Buckeye butterflies love them. Plant some for yourself elsewhere.
• Asclepias spp. Milkweed and Butterfly Weed. These do triple duty. Butterflies enjoy the nectar, they provide cover for eggs, and caterpillars eat them. Monarchs are particularly fond of Asclepias.
• Parsley, Dill, Fennel. Black Swallowtail caterpillars will do a number on them. Plant some for yourself, too, in another location.
• Cornus florida. Dogwoods are beneficial for Spring Azures.
• Humulus lupulus. Hops. These are as useful for Red Admiral butterflies as they are for brewmasters.
• Lindera benzoin. Spicebush is a lovely native with ornamental possibilities. Makes a good tea, too. Spicebush Swallowtails love 'em.
• Prunus serotina. Wild Cherry. Painted Lady butterflies prefer them.
• Salix spp. Willows are attractive to Viceroys.
• Viola spp. Pansies and Violets entice Great Spangled Fritillarys.

In addition to various plant selections, there are also other ways to be kind to butterflies. Nectar feeders attract them. The added advantage is that you can position them close to your windows so you can get a better look at the little creatures. Children, of course, will be captivated. I can't think of a better way to help them learn and appreciate these wonderful gifts of Nature.
When circumstances don't allow for planting host plants (or even if they do), a butterfly house can provide a sheltered place for butterflies to lay their eggs. Besides being eco-friendly, they also look great as decorative objects in the garden.
For more information, visit the following websites:

• The North American Butterfly Association
• The National Wildlife Federation
• Monarch Watch

If you've planted a butterfly garden before, I'd love for you to share your experiences with the rest of us. To do so is easy; just add your comments to this blog!

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Behind A Garden Wall in Savannah: The Isaiah Davenport House

An unfortunate result of living near a scenic destination is that one may seldom visit it. So it was for me and Savannah's historic Davenport house, until one afternoon I passed that garden wall and realized I had no idea what grew behind it.

The lovely Federal-style home was completed by Isaiah Davenport, a master builder, as his own residence in 1820. Restored with care, the house features original plasterwork, a beautiful cantilever staircase and furnishings authentic to the 1820s. The courtyard garden was originally a Bicentennial project of the Trustees' Garden Club of Savannah. It was later re-designed by well-known horticulturist Penelope Hobhouse. Saved from demolition in 1955, the effort was the first of many for the Historic Savannah Foundation and marked the beginning of the historic preservation movement in Savannah.

Join me now for this photographic tour.



This decorative urn serves as a central focal point. It is planted with season annuals.



The garden is laid out in a style typical of the Federal period. Beds are outlined with boxwood. Small magnolias and crape myrtles provide adequate shade.



Foundational plants include Aspidistra elatior, Ficus pumila, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Pittosporum tobira, and Camellia cultivars. A slate-paved courtyard provides a delightful place to relax.

With advance reservations, the staff at the Davenport House can arrange delightful visits for groups. The hospitality options can include exclusive tours of the site along with refreshments such as coffee, orange juice and muffins, wine and cheese, Madiera, and desserts.

The Isaiah Davenport house is located on the corner of State Street and Habersham in historic Savannah, GA.

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How To Define and Prepare Landscape Planting Beds

Most homeowners understand the need for foundation plantings around their residence, but landscape planting beds in the lawn are also very desirable. They can improve the appearance and “curb-appeal” of the home and increase the market value of the property. Landscape beds also reduce the turf area, thereby reducing the need for turf irrigation, turf fertilizing and mowing time.

There are many possible procedures that one could use to define and prepare a landscape planting bed. The one I describe here is simple and easy to do.

The contours of the bed should be aesthetically pleasing. What satisfies one person may not satisfy another. But I prefer beds that are curved and flowing.

Beds that incorporate existing trees should include all roots that are exposed in the lawn. This will help to avoid mower damage to the roots. Mower damage will weaken and may kill the roots, thereby causing the trees to be structurally unstable.

Planting beds that are near structures or other planting beds should allow adequate passage between for lawn mowers and foot traffic. If that is not possible, consider incorporating all into one large landscape bed.

Begin by roughly defining the contours with small marking flags. These are available at many hardware and building supply stores. You can then view the proposed area from different angles as you might view a sculpture. Make necessary adjustments by moving the flags.

Next, “connect the dots” by sketching the contours between the flags with red or orange marking paint. Paint is available in aerosol spray. It is easily applied with a hand-held wand. This simple, single-wheel device holds the paint can upside down at ground level. A trigger on the handle controls the flow of spray. Apply the paint while rolling the wand around the contour of the bed. Paint and a wand are sold in many hardware and building supply stores.

This is the point at which you should take more care to produce aesthetically appealing curves, giving attention to proportion and detail. If you make mistakes, don’t worry. You can easily “erase” errors with your foot and make corrections. Marks that are not thoroughly erased will either be covered by mulch or mowed away.

When the shape of the bed is finally determined, grass within the bed can be killed with a spray application of herbicide such as glyphosate. Glyphosate will not remain in the soil to endanger future plantings. Spray on a calm day to avoid drift onto desirable shrubs and turf. Avoid spraying if irrigation or rainfall is possible within the next six hours. Take care not to allow herbicide to be carried on the bottom of shoes to areas outside of the planting bed. Always follow label instructions and wear protective clothing as recommended. Take precautions to protect other people and pets. Allow herbicide to dry thoroughly before re-entering the area.

Bed contours can be established and made more or less permanent by various means. Metal, plastic or concrete edging may be installed. I prefer to establish the bed with a trenching machine. The EZ Trench Bedscaper Bed Edger and Trencher is perfect for this purpose. The machine produces a trench about 4" deep with a straight outer edge and a sloping inside edge. Soil is easily leveled with a hard rake toward the inside of the bed. (I have no profit interest in this machine or the company that manufactures it. Mine is an honest recommendation.)

Unless the soil is severely compacted, I recommend not roto-tilling the planting bed. Tilling brings weed seeds to the surface which will germinate and cause future problems. It is better to carefully prepare each planting hole by digging to the proper size and softening the soil with a garden fork.

Whether the bed is planted or not, an immediate application of mulch will improve the appearance of the bed, retain moisture, and suppress weeds.

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Ajuga: A Low Maintenance Ground Cover

Ajuga (Ajuga reptans) is also known as Bugleweed because the flowers on its 6” tall spike are two-lipped and tubular. Flowers are generally in hues of blue and purple but can be found in white and red. It is an evergreen plant prized for its dynamic color that stays compact and thick year round. The oval glossy leaves are 3”-4” long and grow opposite each other in rosettes. The foliage has color schemes from dark green to bronze to purple and there are many variegated forms. They start blooming in early spring, peak in late May/early June and are done by the end of July.

Originally found in Europe and Asia, it thrives in full sun to full shade areas. However, if you plant it in full sun, the leaves will be smaller, but you’ll have more spikes and flowers. If it’s in the shade, expect bigger leaves and less spikes throughout the blooming season. Regardless of where you put it, this plant cannot tolerate salinity in the soil or drought. Though ajuga prefers slightly moist soil, it is very important that the soil be allowed to dry between waterings.

Ajuga is mature at 3.5” high but it can grow up to 9” in full bloom. It grows in Zones 3-9 and is frost hardy.

Ajuga grows best in moist fine or medium textured soil. A pH between 4.5 and 6.5 is ideal. Ajuga needs fertile soil so it would be best to incorporate composting or fertilizer before planting. It prefers sandy soil, but as long as the soil is well drained Ajuga will tolerate clay.

Like any plant in the mint family, it grows rapidly and spreads through rhizomes, which makes it a widely known and versatile border and ground cover. Seriously, it looks like a carpet and grows on slopes, so if you’re looking for a way to stop mild erosion this is it. If you’re planting it along your sidewalk to make your path lush, it will do the trick, but be prepared to trim it back frequently. Don’t use it as an edging for your yard- it spreads.

Ajuga is relatively cheaper than other ground covers simply because you’ll need less of it to cover the same square-foot area. If you buy them already established, plant them at least a foot apart.

Bumblebees and hummingbirds like them, but deer don’t. Ajuga is a low allergen.

Propagate these plants through division in the fall or spring every other year. Runners are easily separated from the original plant and replanted. Even if you don’t want to replant the runners, thin the mother plant anyway. It helps keep the plant contained. If you have a variegated plant and your runner has non-variegated leaves, pluck the runner out or it will revert to its non-variegated form. You can prune Ajuga with shears or just run it over with a lawn mower; it won’t be bothered either way.

Poorly drained soils and poor air circulation are the cause of most of Ajuga's problems.  Southern blight and fungal leaf spots are two.  If your plant gets blight or leaf spots, remove it and the soil around the crown immediately. Check other plants for signs of the fungus and trim or remove those too. Then wash your boots and tools. It may seem extreme, but prevention is the key to success. Plus, this plant grows so fast anyway you’ll hardly notice the absence of the ones removed. They are susceptible to root rot if you put soil above (or on) Ajuga’s crown or if you plant them too deeply. Just be attentive. They can also get crown rot if you don’t thin them out every 3 years or so.

To sum up, Bugleweed likes:

• Any amount of shade or sun
  
• Any well drained moderately fertile soil
  
• Slightly moist soil that is allowed to dry between waterings
  
• Air circulation around the roots
  
• Occasional thinning
  
• A pH between 4 and 7
  
• Zones 3-9
  

Any of the following varieties could be perfect for your yard!

• A. reptans x ‘Burgundy Glow’- 6” tall blue blossoms grow from 6” tall green, pink and cream speckled foliage. Expect bronze and burgundy tones in the winter. Plant 10” apart and expect a spread up to 18”.
  
• A. reptans x ‘Catlin’s Giant’- One of the largest varieties with 4” blue spikes on 6” tall foliage with a 2’ spread. It’s green, bronze and ruddy leaves are as large as spinach and don’t tolerate foot traffic.
  
• A. reptans x ‘Chocolate Chip’- Gorgeous green and chocolate foliage in the spring looks like a Hershey bar in the fall (if growing in the sun). A shorter varietal, it grows 4” tall and produces a 4” blue spike. It has an 18” spread and should be planted 9” apart. It’s narrow leaves look stunning en masse.
  
• A. reptans x ‘Gaiety’- A happy little plant with 2” long purple and bronze leaves with 2” lilac flower spikes. Grows 8” tall, including the blooms, in Zones 4-8.
  
• A. reptans x ‘Silver Queen’- Features 6” tall mottled light green and cream foliage and 6” tall blue whorled spikes.
  
• A. reptans x ‘Metallica Crispa’- Its 5” tall deep bronze foliage looks most metallic in full sun. Sports a variety of blue 6” spikes. Some people report this variety grows in Zone 10.
  

Unlike other perennials, Ajuga is prized for its palette of colors that please the eye throughout the year. In addition to being a dense tough plant that can handle children, animals and the occasional car or bike, it easily turns that unplanted or forgotten part of the yard into a beautiful landscape you will be proud of.

You'll find a great selection of GoGardenNow.com

Tips For Planting Ground Cover Junipers

Junipers are very popular ground cover plants for hot, sunny areas. Most tolerate poor soils. They do not do well in shade.

There are many varieties available. Obviously, the best ground cover junipers have a spreading habit. Some grow only a couple of inches high; others grow much taller.

Container-grown junipers can be planted almost any time of the year as long as the ground is not frozen. Because they have been growing in a nursery pot for a period of time, little damage is done to the roots as the plant is transferred to the soil.

Proper soil preparation begins with removing weeds. Provided that the soil is not badly compacted, I do not recommend tilling the planting site because it brings many dormant weed seeds to the surface to germinate later. I prefer to spray the area with glyphosate to kill the weeds. When using horticultural chemicals, always follow label instructions.

The planting hole should be twice as wide as, and slightly shallower than, the root ball. If the soil at the bottom of the hole seems compacted, a garden fork can be used to cultivate it deeply.
After the planting hole is dug, carefully remove the juniper from the container. Root tips die quickly when exposed to air, so plant promptly.

Place the root ball in the hole. Leave the top of the root ball about 1/2 to 1 inch above the surrounding soil. Don't cover it unless roots are exposed. When adding soil around the shrub, lightly tamp the soil to remove air pockets, or add water to help settle the soil. Form a basin around the base of the shrub to encourage water penetration, and water thoroughly after planting. A 3" layer of mulch around the plant can be beneficial in retaining moisture and suppressing weeds.

For the first year until plants become established, monitor moisture levels in the soil. Though many junipers are drought-tolerant, young junipers do not tolerate drying out. If the plant shows signs of stress, its already too late to save it. Water the shrubs deeply and slowly enough to allow the water to soak in. Keep the area under the shrubs mulched.

Fertilization is usually not necessary for newly planted junipers. Depending on conditions, fertilizer may be added at a later time.

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Texture of Bark and Branch

The day, cold and gray, seemed better suited for reading by the fire and sipping hot herb tea. But the salmon tufts of maple flowers caught my eye and drew me outdoors to see what other wonders I had barely noticed.

Of all seasons, winter is probably the least considered when planning the garden. Spring is exhuberant, Summer is fecund. Autumn is rich. But winter is introspective and offers us hidden things to ponder. The thoughtful gardener studies the possibilities and presents them artfully.

Bundled up, I ventured into a garden nearby. Low clouds and mist muffled the sounds of the city, and it suited my mood. So I walked slowly and carefully noted the texture of bark and branch. Share this photographic journey with me.
















Acer griseum in blue.

Acer palmatum var. dissectum Tamukeyama (above).

The white bark of Betula papifera (above).

The mosaic of Cornus florida (above).

Netted bark of Liriodendron tulipifera (above).
The tabula rasa that is Fagus grandifolia (below).

Expressionistic Platanus occidentalis (above).
The reptilian texture of Halesia diptera (below).

Thorny Aralia spinosa (above).
Acer palmatum Contorta (below).

Liquidambar styraciflua Corky (above).

Corylus avellana Contorta (below).

A tangle of Hydrangea anomala petiolaris against a tree (above).
Tracery of Schizophragma hydrangoides on a wall (below).

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Behind A Garden Wall In Chelsea

On a rainy November day, we set out from our hotel near the Thames, strolled past Chelsea Wharf and along Cheyne Walk (with pauses at # 48 and # 3, sites famous for interests in pharmaceuticals) to visit the Chelsea Physic Garden. Apart from the sign, there was little about the entrance that hinted at the treasures behind the garden wall. If only those walls could talk.

The Physic Garden was founded in 1673 by the Worshipful Society of Apothecaries to train apprentices in the identification and uses of plants. Occupying fewer than 4 acres, its location near the river provides a unique micro-climate which allows an astonishing number of species to grow protected from harsh winter weather.

A number of environments have been created to support various types of plants. Among them is the oldest rock garden in England that is open to the public. Surprisingly, the garden was not open to all until 1983.

One of the roles of the Chelsea Physic Garden is to educate the public in natural medicine. Those of you who have frequented my eBay store and goGardenNow.com know how important this is to me from reading some of my comments about various plants.

Medicinal species from North America include Anemopsis californica, Aralia racemosa, Arnica angustifolia subsp. angustifolia, Baptisia tinctoria, Chenopodium ambrosioides var. anthelminticum, Cimicifuga (syn. Actaea) americana, Cimicifuga (syn. Actaea) racemosa, Echinacea purpurea, Eupatorium perfoliatum, Geranium maculatum, Gillenia trifoliata, Hamamelis virginiana, Hedeoma pulegioides, Lobelia siphilitica, Monarda fistulosa, Nicotiana tabacum, Panax quinquefolius, Podophyllum peltatum, Sanguinaria canadensis, Scutellaria lateriflora, Veratrum viride.

You'll also find medicinal plants used by aboriginals of New Zealand, Australia, India, China, South Africa, the Mediterranean region and Northern Europe.

One section of the garden features plants used in pharmacology, including some studied for applications in oncology, pulmonary disease, dermatology, cardiology, analgesia and anaesthesia, neurology and rheumatology, psychiatry, ophthalmology, parasitology, and gastroenterology. Plants are not only grown for medical evaluation, but also for food and fiber, perfume and aromatherapy.

A walk through the Chelsea Physic Garden will bring you joy at every turn. There are tranquil vistas, elfin landscapes, plant oddities and flowers in profusion to delight you. Be sure to schedule a visit. Check visiting hours before arrival.

Lucious Home Grown Strawberries

Few fruits are as popular with the home gardener as strawberries. They require very little growing space, and can be grown in almost any garden. The plants make a good ground cover, the flowers are attractive, and the fruits are delicious. They can be grown in containers, raised beds or conventional garden rows.

There are three types of strawberry plants: June-bearing, Ever-bearing, and Day Neutral.

June-bearing plants produce one large harvest and quit. Whether they actually bear during the month of June depends on your climate zone. Lets just say they bear in late spring.

Ever-bearing plants don't actually bear forever, or even for the entire season. The first harvest in late spring is usually followed by a period of rest and another crop in the fall. Sometimes they'll produce a small harvest in the interim.

Day Neutral plants are insensitive to length of day and will keep on flowering as long as temperatures remain above 35 degrees F and below 85 degrees F.

Ever-bearing and Day Neutral plants usually produce smaller fruits than June-bearing plants.

Sometimes varieties are listed as early-season, mid-season, or late-season. What this means for most gardeners is relatively insignificant as the first harvest for all varieties is usually separated by just a few days.

Choose varieties that are known to do well in your area. Your local Cooperative Extension Service should be able to advise you. Purchase virus-free plants produced by commercial growers. Plants obtained from other gardeners may carry diseases that will infect your own patch. Viruses passed from garden to garden will diminish plant vigor and productiveness.

Fifty or so plants are sufficient for a family of four. If you want to freeze or preserve some for later, you'll probably need one hundred plants. One hundred plants will produce about 40 quarts of fruit.

Strawberries are usually treated as biennials, especially if grown in rows, the plants being replaced every other year. If using this method, do not allow the plants to form fruit the first year. Pick off flowers as they form. The plants should be stronger and more productive the second year. Ever-bearing plants are the exception; buds should be removed until mid-summer of the first year. By then the plants should be established well enough to produce a decent fall crop.

Plant in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Gardeners in the Deep South often plant in the fall. The site should be exposed to full sun (at least six hours per day) and be well-drained. If you do not have such a place in your garden, consider planting in containers.

Strawberries need rich, organic, well-drained soil. The planting site should be located in full sun. Cultivate the soil deeply and have the soil tested. If you don't have your own soil test kit, you can take your sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service. The charge is usually very reasonable. Call them first for instructions. The pH should be between 5.5 and 6.5. Amend the soil according to soil test instructions. You'll probably need to incorporate compost or fertilizer. If using synthetic fertilizer, broadcast it in the area a couple of weeks before planting the strawberries.

When preparing the bed, remove all weeds because strawberries do not compete well with them. A thorough job of weed and grass removal will put the gardener well ahead of the competition. Some herbicides are available which are approved for use in the edible garden, but I recommend hand-weeding and mulch for weed suppression.

If planting in garden rows, space plants 12 to 18 inches apart in rows three feet apart. The holes should be deep and wide enough to accommodate the roots without crowding. Planting depth is very important for the health of the plants. Crowns should be set at the soil surface. Plants set too deeply will develop crown rot. Those set too shallowly with the tops of the roots exposed are likely to dry out.

Strawberries send out many runners, producing new plants at the end of each runner. Those that end up in the wrong place can be removed and discarded or replanted elsewhere. More fruit may be produced if runners are not allowed to form. Keep the area free of weeds.

Raised beds are recommended if your site is in full sun but lacks optimal drainage. They also tend to be more productive for longer periods of time. If planting in raised beds, the beds should be no wider than three feet. Wider beds are more difficult to reach into for harvesting and maintenance. To keep a vigorous strawberry bed, you should also remove some of the older plants occasionally. Well-maintained raised beds may produce vigorously for 5 or more years.

If planting in containers, keep in mind that growing conditions remain the same. Strawberry jars and window boxes are very popular because they provide ample drainage and are very attractive. Strawberry jars are usually made of terra cotta with several pockets formed around the sides for holding the plants.

Strawberry plants should receive at least one inch of water per week if planted in rows or raised beds. More water may be necessary if the plants are planted in containers in which the soil may dry faster. Mulching with straw or compost helps to conserve water.

In colder regions, strawberries may also be protected during winter with a layer of straw mulch. Freezing temperatures often cause soil "heaving" which pushes the plants upward. Mulch can help to prevent it. In spring, the mulch may be raked aside before growth begins, but left around the plants to help keep the fruit clean.

Fall fertilizer application is recommended. A soil test will indicate the type of fertilizer and the appropriate application rate.

Strawberries, like other garden plants, may be troubled with various insects and diseases. Remedies, both organic and synthetic, are widely available, but it is not within the scope of this article to review products. Whether using organic or synthetic remedies, always follow label instructions.

There are two simple, effective methods for disease and insect control: crop rotation and companion planting. Crop rotation involves moving the strawberry bed to a new location some distance from the older bed when the plants lose vigor, thus leaving the pests behind. Companion planting involves locating strawberries in close proximity to other plants that repel insects attracted to strawberries. Similarly, certain plants have beneficial effects upon strawberries. Companion planting is especially appropriate for raised-bed gardening. Beans, borage, comfrey, garlic, lettuce, onion and spinach are said to be good companions to strawberries. On the other hand, strawberries do not do well in the presence of cole crops such as broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower.

Discover the pleasure of growing and sharing your own home-grown strawberries.  You'll be delighted.

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A Different Kind Of Daffodil

The Peruvian daffodil (Ismene or Hymenocallis x festalis) is not widely planted or known, though the flower is beautiful and the plant is very easy to grow. Actually, it is not a daffodil at all. The blooms have an exotic appearance, something like a cross between a daffodil and crinum. Fragrant flowers are white or yellow. Glossy, evergreen, strap-like foliage adds a rich appearance to the garden. They have no serious insect or disease problems. Plant height is 18" to 24".

Hymenocallis is cold-hardy in USDA climate zones 8-10, preferring rich, moist but well-drained soil with pH in the range of 6.1 to 7.5. The plants prefer full sun, but light shade is tolerable.

If grown in colder climates, plant outdoors after danger of frost is past. A soil test will indicate any necessary soil amendments. Your local Cooperative Extension Service will send you soil sample to a lab for testing. Fees are nominal. Call their office for instructions.

Prepare the soil by cultivating deeply and incorporating recommended soil amendments. The bulbs should be planted 8" deep and 12" to 15" apart.

Flowers usually appear within two weeks of planting, so Peruvian daffodils are perfect for filling in garden spaces after flowers like tulips and narcissus have finished blooming. Blooms appear before foliage emerges, so the plants seem a bit naked for awhile.

In those areas where they are not cold-hardy, Hemerocallis bulbs should be dug just after first frost and allowed to dry. Roots must be left intact. After excess soil is removed, the bulbs can be stored in a warm, dark area of the home.

Peruvian daffodils are also excellent for container gardening, especially in mixed plantings. If forcing, the bulbs can be brought into flower by bringing them into a warm, well-lit room. After blooming, they can be planted outdoors when weather has warmed.

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Lilies Always Delight

Many plants that are called lilies are not. There are daylilies, canna lilies, calla lilies and water lilies, for example, none of which are true lilies. True lilies are of the genus Lilium, and include many different species and hybrids. Examples of true lilies include "Easter" lilies, Turks-cap lilies, Asiatic lilies, Oriental lilies, Michigan lilies, Carolina lilies, Leopard lilies and Tiger lilies.

Lilies are among the most impressive of flowers and always delight. Their elegant appearance might make one think they are difficult to grow, but they are not. Provided that they will succeed in your region, this guide should help you grow them successfully.

Plant breeders have produced many different varieties of lilies in many different forms, colors and sizes. There are lilies that bloom at different times during the growing season. You'll find many suitable for container gardening, perennial borders and cutting gardens. You need only choose from the vast array of lilies available, which may be the most difficult task of all.

Lilies are grown from true bulbs, as are onions, tulips and daffodils. A bulb is a flattened or compressed stem called a basal plate, usually growing underground, with a growing point on top and surrounded by enlarged, fleshy scales or layers that store food. The layers or scales are the bases of leaves. Onions are bulbs with layers. Lilies are bulbs with scales. Roots grow downward from the basal plate. Root scars or dried roots may persist on the bottom of the basal plate.

Bulbs may or may not be covered with papery structures called tunics. Tunics help to protect bulbs from drying out. The onion is a good example of a bulb with a tunic. Lilies do not have tunics. Bulbs without tunics lack protection from drying out, so special care must be taken to keep lily bulbs moist until they are planted. For this reason, lilies that are grown and traded locally are usually harvested and re-planted in the fall of the year. Gardeners and small nurseries usually do not have the facilities to store the bulbs for long. Bulbs that are produced by large commercial enterprises are usually available and planted in the spring of the year because those businesses do have the means to harvest, ship and store the bulbs properly for longer periods of time.

Lilies perform best within USDA climate zones 4 through 9, but there are exceptions. Some are cold hardy into zone 3; others suffer south of zone 8. There are more variables than can be addressed in this guide, so you'll need to research the species or varieties that interest you to learn whether they will work for you. As a rule, lilies do not succeed in hot, arid climates.

The planting site should be exposed to morning sun and afternoon shade. Soil should be moist but well-drained, high in organic matter, with pH between 5.6 and 7.6. The best way to determine if the pH is within that range and contains the proper nutrients for lilies is to have the soil tested. Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you. You can collect the soil sample yourself. For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis. Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

Prior to receiving your bulbs, cultivate the soil to the depth of one foot and add plenty of well-rotted compost. Remove weeds and debris. Soil test results may recommend other soil amendments. Follow those instructions. The soil amendments you may use depends upon the type of soil you have in need of amending. Common soil amendments include sulphur for lowering pH, limestone for raising pH, sand for helping drainage, clay for slowing drainage, gypsum for breaking up caking clay and compost for enriching the soil. Bone meal is especially good for bulbs. There are others which I don't have the time or space to name. Which you should use depends upon your particular circumstance. If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the bulbs. The site should be ready for planting when your bulbs arrive.

Plant your lily bulbs as soon as you receive them. Do not allow them to dry. They do not have tunics for protection. As a rule, bulbs should be planted at least three times as deep as they are wide. For example, if the bulb is 2" wide, plant it 6" deep. That means the bottom of the hole should be 6" deep. Cover with soil and water deeply. A two to three inch layer of straw mulch will help to preserve moisture, suppress weeds and moderate soil temperature.

During summer, you may fertilize occasionally. Apply 2 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet of garden area every two weeks until flower buds appear. Do not allow synthetic fertilizers to come into contact with the plants. Irrigate if rainfall is inadequate. Soil should be moist but not soggy. When you water, water deeply so that moisture reaches the roots. Weed when necessary, but be careful not to disturb the lily bulbs. Taller lilies may need to be staked. Take care not to harm the roots when inserting stakes into the ground.

Growing lilies in containers is not much different than in the garden. Begin by choosing varieties with a shorter growth habit. Use the finest potting soil; cheap soil will give poor results. The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth. Select containers that will allow you to plant deeply enough and that will accommodate deep root penetration. Plant the bulbs at the proper depth. Because container gardens are easily affected by temperature fluctuations and can dry quickly, take steps to keep the pots cool and properly watered. Grouping pots together, placing them in areas where the pots can be shaded, mulching and companion planting, adding moisture retentive gels can be beneficial. Larger containers are not as quickly affected by temperature and subject to drying.

When the lilies bloom, especially those in the garden, you won't be able to resist cutting some for flower arrangements. They do very nicely as cut flowers. Remove no more than the top third of the stem. Taking more than that may inhibit the plant's ability to store adequate food reserves in the bulb for next year's show. Harvest in the morning or evening when temperatures are lower. Use sharp clippers or shears to make clean cuts. Immediately place the cut ends of the stems in a bucket of cool water.

As the flowers in your garden fade and drop, remove any seed pods that may appear. Allowing seeds to mature weakens the plant. Let the leaves yellow and brown naturally. The dry stem and leaves may be carefully removed in the fall.

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