Lucious Home Grown Strawberries

Few fruits are as popular with the home gardener as strawberries. They require very little growing space, and can be grown in almost any garden. The plants make a good ground cover, the flowers are attractive, and the fruits are delicious. They can be grown in containers, raised beds or conventional garden rows.

There are three types of strawberry plants: June-bearing, Ever-bearing, and Day Neutral.

June-bearing plants produce one large harvest and quit. Whether they actually bear during the month of June depends on your climate zone. Lets just say they bear in late spring.

Ever-bearing plants don't actually bear forever, or even for the entire season. The first harvest in late spring is usually followed by a period of rest and another crop in the fall. Sometimes they'll produce a small harvest in the interim.

Day Neutral plants are insensitive to length of day and will keep on flowering as long as temperatures remain above 35 degrees F and below 85 degrees F.

Ever-bearing and Day Neutral plants usually produce smaller fruits than June-bearing plants.

Sometimes varieties are listed as early-season, mid-season, or late-season. What this means for most gardeners is relatively insignificant as the first harvest for all varieties is usually separated by just a few days.

Choose varieties that are known to do well in your area. Your local Cooperative Extension Service should be able to advise you. Purchase virus-free plants produced by commercial growers. Plants obtained from other gardeners may carry diseases that will infect your own patch. Viruses passed from garden to garden will diminish plant vigor and productiveness.

Fifty or so plants are sufficient for a family of four. If you want to freeze or preserve some for later, you'll probably need one hundred plants. One hundred plants will produce about 40 quarts of fruit.

Strawberries are usually treated as biennials, especially if grown in rows, the plants being replaced every other year. If using this method, do not allow the plants to form fruit the first year. Pick off flowers as they form. The plants should be stronger and more productive the second year. Ever-bearing plants are the exception; buds should be removed until mid-summer of the first year. By then the plants should be established well enough to produce a decent fall crop.

Plant in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Gardeners in the Deep South often plant in the fall. The site should be exposed to full sun (at least six hours per day) and be well-drained. If you do not have such a place in your garden, consider planting in containers.

Strawberries need rich, organic, well-drained soil. The planting site should be located in full sun. Cultivate the soil deeply and have the soil tested. If you don't have your own soil test kit, you can take your sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service. The charge is usually very reasonable. Call them first for instructions. The pH should be between 5.5 and 6.5. Amend the soil according to soil test instructions. You'll probably need to incorporate compost or fertilizer. If using synthetic fertilizer, broadcast it in the area a couple of weeks before planting the strawberries.

When preparing the bed, remove all weeds because strawberries do not compete well with them. A thorough job of weed and grass removal will put the gardener well ahead of the competition. Some herbicides are available which are approved for use in the edible garden, but I recommend hand-weeding and mulch for weed suppression.

If planting in garden rows, space plants 12 to 18 inches apart in rows three feet apart. The holes should be deep and wide enough to accommodate the roots without crowding. Planting depth is very important for the health of the plants. Crowns should be set at the soil surface. Plants set too deeply will develop crown rot. Those set too shallowly with the tops of the roots exposed are likely to dry out.

Strawberries send out many runners, producing new plants at the end of each runner. Those that end up in the wrong place can be removed and discarded or replanted elsewhere. More fruit may be produced if runners are not allowed to form. Keep the area free of weeds.

Raised beds are recommended if your site is in full sun but lacks optimal drainage. They also tend to be more productive for longer periods of time. If planting in raised beds, the beds should be no wider than three feet. Wider beds are more difficult to reach into for harvesting and maintenance. To keep a vigorous strawberry bed, you should also remove some of the older plants occasionally. Well-maintained raised beds may produce vigorously for 5 or more years.

If planting in containers, keep in mind that growing conditions remain the same. Strawberry jars and window boxes are very popular because they provide ample drainage and are very attractive. Strawberry jars are usually made of terra cotta with several pockets formed around the sides for holding the plants.

Strawberry plants should receive at least one inch of water per week if planted in rows or raised beds. More water may be necessary if the plants are planted in containers in which the soil may dry faster. Mulching with straw or compost helps to conserve water.

In colder regions, strawberries may also be protected during winter with a layer of straw mulch. Freezing temperatures often cause soil "heaving" which pushes the plants upward. Mulch can help to prevent it. In spring, the mulch may be raked aside before growth begins, but left around the plants to help keep the fruit clean.

Fall fertilizer application is recommended. A soil test will indicate the type of fertilizer and the appropriate application rate.

Strawberries, like other garden plants, may be troubled with various insects and diseases. Remedies, both organic and synthetic, are widely available, but it is not within the scope of this article to review products. Whether using organic or synthetic remedies, always follow label instructions.

There are two simple, effective methods for disease and insect control: crop rotation and companion planting. Crop rotation involves moving the strawberry bed to a new location some distance from the older bed when the plants lose vigor, thus leaving the pests behind. Companion planting involves locating strawberries in close proximity to other plants that repel insects attracted to strawberries. Similarly, certain plants have beneficial effects upon strawberries. Companion planting is especially appropriate for raised-bed gardening. Beans, borage, comfrey, garlic, lettuce, onion and spinach are said to be good companions to strawberries. On the other hand, strawberries do not do well in the presence of cole crops such as broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower.

Discover the pleasure of growing and sharing your own home-grown strawberries.  You'll be delighted.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

A Different Kind Of Daffodil

The Peruvian daffodil (Ismene or Hymenocallis x festalis) is not widely planted or known, though the flower is beautiful and the plant is very easy to grow. Actually, it is not a daffodil at all. The blooms have an exotic appearance, something like a cross between a daffodil and crinum. Fragrant flowers are white or yellow. Glossy, evergreen, strap-like foliage adds a rich appearance to the garden. They have no serious insect or disease problems. Plant height is 18" to 24".

Hymenocallis is cold-hardy in USDA climate zones 8-10, preferring rich, moist but well-drained soil with pH in the range of 6.1 to 7.5. The plants prefer full sun, but light shade is tolerable.

If grown in colder climates, plant outdoors after danger of frost is past. A soil test will indicate any necessary soil amendments. Your local Cooperative Extension Service will send you soil sample to a lab for testing. Fees are nominal. Call their office for instructions.

Prepare the soil by cultivating deeply and incorporating recommended soil amendments. The bulbs should be planted 8" deep and 12" to 15" apart.

Flowers usually appear within two weeks of planting, so Peruvian daffodils are perfect for filling in garden spaces after flowers like tulips and narcissus have finished blooming. Blooms appear before foliage emerges, so the plants seem a bit naked for awhile.

In those areas where they are not cold-hardy, Hemerocallis bulbs should be dug just after first frost and allowed to dry. Roots must be left intact. After excess soil is removed, the bulbs can be stored in a warm, dark area of the home.

Peruvian daffodils are also excellent for container gardening, especially in mixed plantings. If forcing, the bulbs can be brought into flower by bringing them into a warm, well-lit room. After blooming, they can be planted outdoors when weather has warmed.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Lilies Always Delight

Many plants that are called lilies are not. There are daylilies, canna lilies, calla lilies and water lilies, for example, none of which are true lilies. True lilies are of the genus Lilium, and include many different species and hybrids. Examples of true lilies include "Easter" lilies, Turks-cap lilies, Asiatic lilies, Oriental lilies, Michigan lilies, Carolina lilies, Leopard lilies and Tiger lilies.

Lilies are among the most impressive of flowers and always delight. Their elegant appearance might make one think they are difficult to grow, but they are not. Provided that they will succeed in your region, this guide should help you grow them successfully.

Plant breeders have produced many different varieties of lilies in many different forms, colors and sizes. There are lilies that bloom at different times during the growing season. You'll find many suitable for container gardening, perennial borders and cutting gardens. You need only choose from the vast array of lilies available, which may be the most difficult task of all.

Lilies are grown from true bulbs, as are onions, tulips and daffodils. A bulb is a flattened or compressed stem called a basal plate, usually growing underground, with a growing point on top and surrounded by enlarged, fleshy scales or layers that store food. The layers or scales are the bases of leaves. Onions are bulbs with layers. Lilies are bulbs with scales. Roots grow downward from the basal plate. Root scars or dried roots may persist on the bottom of the basal plate.

Bulbs may or may not be covered with papery structures called tunics. Tunics help to protect bulbs from drying out. The onion is a good example of a bulb with a tunic. Lilies do not have tunics. Bulbs without tunics lack protection from drying out, so special care must be taken to keep lily bulbs moist until they are planted. For this reason, lilies that are grown and traded locally are usually harvested and re-planted in the fall of the year. Gardeners and small nurseries usually do not have the facilities to store the bulbs for long. Bulbs that are produced by large commercial enterprises are usually available and planted in the spring of the year because those businesses do have the means to harvest, ship and store the bulbs properly for longer periods of time.

Lilies perform best within USDA climate zones 4 through 9, but there are exceptions. Some are cold hardy into zone 3; others suffer south of zone 8. There are more variables than can be addressed in this guide, so you'll need to research the species or varieties that interest you to learn whether they will work for you. As a rule, lilies do not succeed in hot, arid climates.

The planting site should be exposed to morning sun and afternoon shade. Soil should be moist but well-drained, high in organic matter, with pH between 5.6 and 7.6. The best way to determine if the pH is within that range and contains the proper nutrients for lilies is to have the soil tested. Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you. You can collect the soil sample yourself. For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis. Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

Prior to receiving your bulbs, cultivate the soil to the depth of one foot and add plenty of well-rotted compost. Remove weeds and debris. Soil test results may recommend other soil amendments. Follow those instructions. The soil amendments you may use depends upon the type of soil you have in need of amending. Common soil amendments include sulphur for lowering pH, limestone for raising pH, sand for helping drainage, clay for slowing drainage, gypsum for breaking up caking clay and compost for enriching the soil. Bone meal is especially good for bulbs. There are others which I don't have the time or space to name. Which you should use depends upon your particular circumstance. If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the bulbs. The site should be ready for planting when your bulbs arrive.

Plant your lily bulbs as soon as you receive them. Do not allow them to dry. They do not have tunics for protection. As a rule, bulbs should be planted at least three times as deep as they are wide. For example, if the bulb is 2" wide, plant it 6" deep. That means the bottom of the hole should be 6" deep. Cover with soil and water deeply. A two to three inch layer of straw mulch will help to preserve moisture, suppress weeds and moderate soil temperature.

During summer, you may fertilize occasionally. Apply 2 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet of garden area every two weeks until flower buds appear. Do not allow synthetic fertilizers to come into contact with the plants. Irrigate if rainfall is inadequate. Soil should be moist but not soggy. When you water, water deeply so that moisture reaches the roots. Weed when necessary, but be careful not to disturb the lily bulbs. Taller lilies may need to be staked. Take care not to harm the roots when inserting stakes into the ground.

Growing lilies in containers is not much different than in the garden. Begin by choosing varieties with a shorter growth habit. Use the finest potting soil; cheap soil will give poor results. The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth. Select containers that will allow you to plant deeply enough and that will accommodate deep root penetration. Plant the bulbs at the proper depth. Because container gardens are easily affected by temperature fluctuations and can dry quickly, take steps to keep the pots cool and properly watered. Grouping pots together, placing them in areas where the pots can be shaded, mulching and companion planting, adding moisture retentive gels can be beneficial. Larger containers are not as quickly affected by temperature and subject to drying.

When the lilies bloom, especially those in the garden, you won't be able to resist cutting some for flower arrangements. They do very nicely as cut flowers. Remove no more than the top third of the stem. Taking more than that may inhibit the plant's ability to store adequate food reserves in the bulb for next year's show. Harvest in the morning or evening when temperatures are lower. Use sharp clippers or shears to make clean cuts. Immediately place the cut ends of the stems in a bucket of cool water.

As the flowers in your garden fade and drop, remove any seed pods that may appear. Allowing seeds to mature weakens the plant. Let the leaves yellow and brown naturally. The dry stem and leaves may be carefully removed in the fall.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Dahlias For Best Of Show

Every flower has it's following of fans, and the dahlia certainly has it's share. The plant is native to Mexico and South America, and named for Anders Dahl, the Swedish botanist. Dahlias were first introduced to Spain in the 1780s. They are now available in so many colors, sizes and forms that they have some appeal for practically any gardener. I've seen them growing in gardens fabulous and famous, and in gardens beside humble dwellings in mountain hollows. No matter the setting, they lend a grand elegance. They are not only beautiful in the perennial border, they make excellent cut flowers and are often grown for show.

Dahlias are tuberous-root plants that are grown from seed, cuttings or tubers. Most gardeners start with tubers because they are easily obtained and predictable.

Dahlias require exposure to full sun for at least 6 hours per day, and well-drained sandy loam with pH between 6.0 and 7.5. To determine nutrient needs, take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Office for testing. Call first for details. Prepare the soil by cultivating deeply and amending the soil according to soil test recommendations. Amendments should be incorporated into the soil.

Large-flowering dahlias require higher levels of soil nutrients. Fertilizers high in potash such as 5-10-10 or 4-8-12 are often recommended. Applications of composted manure, bone meal and blood meal also improve the soil. Medium-flowering plants require half as much fertilizer as the large ones. Small-flowering dahlias need very little fertilizer since smaller blooms are considered to be more desirable.

Large dahlias will need staking to prevent them from bending or breaking. Begin by driving 6' stakes into the ground at the places where you intend to plant. The stakes should be driven 18" deep and 3' to 4' apart. Then prepare planting holes next to the stakes. If the stakes are spaced 4' apart, you should be able to plant two dahlias per stake. Planting holes should should be about 4" deep unless the soil tends to be dry. If it tends to be dry, the holes should be 6" deep. Place the tubers 4" or more away from the stake. The upper end should be slightly elevated in the bottom of the hole. Sometimes it's difficult to determine which end of the tuber is up. Look for growing points, or "eyes". The end with the "eyes" should be the upper end. Most of the eyes should be facing upward. Cover with soil and water well. Take care that bits of synthetic fertilizer do not come into contact with the tubers.

Watering is necessary if rainfall is not adequate. Dahlias require at least 1" of water per week, perhaps more if weather is hot. Irrigate weekly so that the soil can drain between watering.

Cultivate frequently to prevent the soil from compacting and to remove weeds, being careful to avoid disturbing the plants and stakes. If you prefer not to cultivate, a layer of mulch will help to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Additional fertilizer may be applied around the large-flowering dahlias during mid-summer. Apply 5-10-10, 4-8-12 or another recommended fertilizer at a rate of 1 or 2 tablespoons per plant. Do not allow fertilizer to come into contact with the plants.

As the plants grow, selected branches and buds should be removed to encourage better blooming. Pinching to remove is usually sufficient, provided that pinching is done at the right time. The first pinching should occur when 4 pairs of leaves have developed. At that time, pinch out the very top of the plant to encourage branching along the side. As side branches develop, select the best 4 to 6 branches to remain and remove the others. As those remaining branches develop, remove buds that appear along the sides of them to encourage development of best quality blooms.

Gardeners who grow dahlias for exhibition do even more pinching and disbudding to produce the best flowers possible. They also apply more fertilizers and insecticides, and take steps to protect the flowers from sun exposure to enhance bloom color. It is not within the scope of this article to discuss the various techniques here.

When cutting flowers, use a sharp knife or pruners and cut at a slant. Immediately place the cut ends in a container of cold water. If the flowers begin to wilt, cut the stem once again a couple of inches above the last cut, and place in the water.

The most common pests include aphids, thrips, leaf hoppers and spider mites. Various insecticidal soaps and chemicals can be used to good advantage. Always carefully follow label instructions.

After the first hard frost, cut off the plant stalks close to the ground. After a couple of weeks, the tuberous clumps can be dug and stored over winter. Store them in a very cool and dark place. Care must be taken to prevent them from freezing and drying. Baskets make excellent storage containers because they allow ventilation along the sides. Without adequate ventilation the tubers will rot. Sprinkle with water every week or so to replace lost moisture.

In spring, the tuberous clusters can be divided. Each division may consist of one or two roots with "eyes" at the top. The division can then be planted as before, or shared with others.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Cannas: Bright and Bold

For a bold color statement in the garden, you can't do better than plant cannas. Cannas are sometimes called "canna lilies", but they are not true lilies. They are closely related to Ginger. Cannas are perennials that grow from rhizomes. A rhizome is a thick stem that grows horizontally at or just below the soil surface. The stem is segmented by nodes. Roots grow from the bottom of the rhizome. Shoots and leaves may appear along the top and sides of the rhizome.

Cannas produce large leaves that resemble banana foliage. Leaf color depends upon variety and ranges from light green to burgundy or even bronze. Colors may be solid, variegated or striped. Impressive clusters of floppy flowers are produced at the top of the plant that range in shades of red, pink, orange, yellow or combinations thereof. Their appearance is very lush. Plant height varies by variety, ranging from 3 to 6 feet or more. Therefore they lend themselves well to all kinds of uses from container gardening in small spaces to mass plantings along highways. A mass planting of cannas is stunning, like big brushstrokes of paint in the landscape.

Though they appear very tropical, cannas can be grown almost anywhere in the United States. They are reliably cold hardy in USDA climate zones 8 through 10, but can be grown as annuals or lifted and stored over winter in cooler zones. Where cannas are not cold hardy, they may be started indoors in containers during the months of February or March and planted outdoors when danger of frost is past. This will give them a head-start so flowers can be enjoyed before mid-summer.

Cannas prefer full sun but will tolerate partial shade with a minimum of four hours of direct sun per day. Rich soil, moist but well-drained, is best with mildly acidic pH ranging from 6.0 to 6.8. They are not too picky, though. I've seen them doing quite well in ditches and at the edges of ponds. The best way to determine if the pH is within range and contains the proper nutrients is to have the soil tested. Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you. You can collect the soil sample yourself. For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis. Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

Cultivate the soil to the depth of 10" and add plenty of well-rotted compost. Remove weeds and debris. Soil test results may recommend other soil amendments. Follow those instructions. The soil amendments you may use depends upon the type of soil you have in need of amending. Common soil amendments include sulphur for lowering pH, limestone for raising pH, sand for helping drainage, clay for slowing drainage, gypsum for breaking up caking clay and compost for enriching the soil. Bone meal is especially good for rhizomes. Which you should use depends upon your particular circumstance. If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the rhizomes.

Plant your cannas in spring after the danger of frost has passed. Planting holes or trenchs should be about 4" deep. Space the rhizomes or plants 12" to 18" apart. Lay them flat in the bottom of the hole or trench. Don't worry about which side is up. Cover with about two inches of soil. Water deeply. If some of the soil washes away, add more. Avoid heavy watering until new shoots grow to 4" height.

During summer, you may fertilize occasionally. Apply 2 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet of garden area every two weeks until flower buds appear. Do not allow synthetic fertilizers to come into contact with the plants. Irrigate if rainfall is inadequate. About one inch of water per week should be sufficient. When you water, do so deeply in order that moisture will reach the roots. Weed when necessary. A light mulch of straw will help to preserve moisture and suppress weeds. Other than that, very little maintenance is needed. Though it is not necessary to remove spent flowers, doing so will prevent seed from forming and may encourage a longer bloom period. Occasional application of a recommended insecticide will keep away leaf-eating insects such as Japanese beetles, though the extent of their damage is usually minimal and cosmetic. Call your Cooperative Agricultural Extension Office for insecticide recommendations. Always, follow label instructions.

Shorter growing cannas are wonderful in container gardens. Use the finest potting soil; cheap soil will give poor results. The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth. Select containers that will allow you to include companion plants, if desired. Larger containers will require less frequent watering. The addition of water retentive gel can be beneficial. Plant the rhizomes at the proper depth.

If yours is a climate where cannas will not survive the winter, you can dig and store them for planting next year. At the end of the season following the first hard frost, lift them, cut off stems and leaves and wash the rhizomes. Large ones may be divided with each piece having three or four "eyes." "Eyes" are growing points resembling buds where future growth will appear. Pack in peat moss and store in boxes or bags with some ventilation. Plastic bags with ventilation holes like potatoes come in will do nicely. Store in a dark place where the temperature can be maintained between 45 and 55 degrees F. Moisture should not collect in the storage container. On the other hand, the rhizomes should not be allowed to dry out.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Those Elegant Callas

For sheer elegance, I believe callas are unsurpassed. Their simple, exotic shape makes them favorites of flower arrangers. But they are so easy to grow you don't have to be a florist to enjoy them.

Callas (Zantedeschia spp.), sometimes called "calla lilies", are not true lilies but are aroids, members of the Araceae family along with anthurium, pothos, monstera, philodendron, caladium and jack-in-the-pulpit. Many aroids are native to the tropics. Callas are native to southern Africa. They are cold-hardy in the United States from USDA climate zone 8 through 11. Those who live in cooler regions can grow them successfully in container gardens, lifting and storing the rhizomes over winter.

Those structures often referred to as flowers are not actually flowers at all, but are modified leaves called spathes. The actual flowers are much smaller and are surrounded by the spathes. Callas are available in a wide range of colors. The glossy green foliage is very attractive and may be used in floral arrangements along with the spathes.

Callas are grown from rhizomes. A rhizome is a thick stem that grows horizontally at or just below the soil surface. The stem is segmented by nodes. Roots grow from the bottom of the rhizome. Shoots and leaves may appear along the top and sides of the rhizome.

If planting in the garden, select a site in full sun with richly organic, moist but well-drained soil. Some callas do well in wet, boggy soils, but never in standing water. Soil pH should be between 6.0 to 6.5. The best way to determine if the pH is within that range and contains the proper nutrients for callas is to have the soil tested. Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you. You can collect the soil sample yourself. For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis. Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

Prior to receiving your rhizomes, cultivate the soil to the depth of one foot if the site is not boggy and add plenty of well-rotted compost. Remove weeds. Soil test results may recommend other soil amendments. Follow those instructions. The soil amendments you may use depends upon the type of soil you are in need of amending. Common soil amendments include sulfur for lowering pH, limestone for raising pH, sand for helping drainage, clay for slowing drainage, gypsum for breaking up caking clay and compost for enriching the soil. Bone meal is especially good for calla rhizomes. Which you should use depends upon your particular circumstance. If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the bulbs. The site should be ready for planting when your callas arrive.

Bear in mind that all parts of the plant are toxic if eaten and can cause skin irritations and/or allergic reactions in sensitive persons. If you believe you might be susceptible, wear gloves when handling any part of the plant.

Calla rhizomes can be planted in fall or early winter in warm climate zones, or in spring. If planting in spring, do so when the soil has warmed and danger of severe frost is past. They should be planted shallowly with the tops exposed, similar to German iris. To determine which is the top side, hold the rhizome horizontally and look for small buds or growing points. These growing points are called "eyes." They resemble the eyes on potatoes. The area with the most eyes is the top side. In a hole or trench, lay the rhizomes horizontally with the eyes looking upward. Space them at approximately twelve to eighteen inches apart. Press the soil around them leaving a portion of the rhizome exposed. Water well. If some of the soil washes away, replace it. With warm soil, roots and shoots should begin to form soon. A light layer of straw mulch will help to preserve moisture and suppress weeds.

During summer, you may fertilize occasionally. Apply 2 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet of garden area every two weeks until spathes appear. Do not allow synthetic fertilizers to come into contact with the plants. Irrigate if rainfall is inadequate. Soil should be constantly moist (not soggy) and never allowed to dry. Weed when necessary, but be careful not to disturb the rhizomes. Occasional application of a recommended insecticide will keep leaf-eating insects away, though the extent of their damage is usually minimal and cosmetic. Call your Cooperative Agricultural Extension Office for insecticide recommendations. Always, follow label instructions.

Growing callas in containers is not much different than in the garden. Use the finest potting soil; cheap soil will give poor results. The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth. Select containers that will accommodate the calla rhizomes and any other suitable companion plants. All companion plants should have similar soil and moisture requirements. Because container gardens can dry quickly, take steps to keep the pots properly watered. Adding moisture retentive gel to the soil can be beneficial. Larger containers are not as susceptible to drying. Tipping over can also be a problem with small containers.

When the spathes appear, you can cut all you want for flower arrangements. Harvest in the morning or evening when temperatures are lower. Use sharp clippers or shears to make clean cuts. Immediately place the cut ends of the stems in a bucket of cool water. The cut "flowers" are long-lasting.

When bloom time is over, let the foliage remain to build reserves in the rhizomes for the next growing season. Continue to provide water sufficient to maintain moist soil. You may remove the foliage when it has turned yellow.

If you live in a climate zone where callas are not cold hardy, you may dig and store them until the next growing season. After digging them, remove foliage, wash the rhizomes and let them dry in the shade. Do not let them become shrivelled. Pack in peat moss and store in boxes or bags with some ventilation. Plastic bags with ventilation holes like potatoes come in will do nicely. Store in a dark place where the temperature can be maintained between 45 and 55 degrees F. Moisture should not collect in the storage container. Neither should the rhizomes be allowed to dry out.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Glorious Gladiolus

Gladiolus are glorious because they are so beautiful and very, very easy to grow.  By following these steps, you may enjoy fresh flowers throughout the summer.

"Glads", as they are sometimes called, are native to Africa, Asia and southern Europe. Though cold hardy from USDA climate zone 7 through 11, they can be grown practically anywhere in the United States. In northern zones, they can be grown as inexpensive summer annuals. In southern zones, they can come back year after year.

They make perfect garden accents. The striking blooms and sword-like foliage make a bold statement in the garden. They're great for cut flower arrangements and for gifts. Just think how good you'll feel carrying an armload of your own home-grown glads to someone you love. Or plant loads of them and invite your friends to pick their own!

Gladiolus prefer full sun, at least six hours per day. Average garden soil with pH between 5.5 and 8.5 is fine. This can be determined by taking a soil sample to your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service for testing. Call them first for instructions. They will charge a nominal fee.

The site should be moist but well-drained. Irrigation may be necessary if rainfall is insufficient. Glads should receive one inch of water per week. If they do not receive enough water, the flower spikes will grow crooked. Take care not to over-water.

You may plant them in rows, raised beds, or intersperse them among other plants in your flower garden. Cultivate the soil to a depth of twelve inches and amend it according to soil test recommendations. Remove weeds and debris during cultivation. It is usually a good idea to incorporate superphosphate into the soil before planting at the rate of two pounds per 50 feet of row. If superphosphate is not available, application of 5-10-5 fertilizer at the same rate is recommended.

The corms should not come into contact with synthetic fertilizer. If you use it, you can avoid burning the corms by waiting a week or two before planting them. Or you can place the fertilizer in the bottom of the planting row and cover with an inch or two of topsoil before planting the glads.

Plant four to six inches deep and six inches apart in spring when the weather and soil has warmed. Cover with soil and water well. An application of mulch can suppress weeds and help to retain moisture.

Glads benefit from generous feeding. A second application of 5-10-5 fertilizer may be applied as a side dressing at the rate of two pounds per 50 feet of row when the emerging bloom spike can be felt at the base of the foliage. Again, the fertilizer should not come into contact with the plants. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers. Too much fertilization can encourage bulb diseases.

Gladiolus differ somewhat by variety and corm size as to how long it takes between planting and blooming. Larger corms bloom sooner. The average time span is between 65 and 95 days. If you plant a mix of varieties, you may enjoy new flowers until mid-summer. Stagger planting them every couple of weeks and you can have an abundance of blooms until late summer.

If cultivation is needed during the growing season to control weeds, take care to cultivate only at the soil surface. Deep cultivation can easily damage the feeder roots.

Various diseases and pests, especially thrips, can afflict gladiolus. It's best to avoid them in the beginning by purchasing commercially produced bulbs. These will have been treated during harvest and processing for sale. Weeding and maintaining a clean garden also helps to prevent problems. If problems do occur, consult with the staff at your local Cooperative Extension Service for recommendations.

Since the flower spikes grow rather tall, they may require staking. The stems are often not strong enough to support the weight of flowers, especially if they are exposed to wind.

You won't be able to resist cutting some for flower arrangements. Choose stems with no more than three flowers in bloom. For best results, cut the stems in the early morning or late evening when temperatures are cooler. Leave a few leaves on each plant so the corms will remain strong. Most growers allow four leaves to remain on the corm. Use a sharp knife or clippers making a clean cut. Plunge the lower ends of the stems immediately in a bucket of cool water.

Allow the leaves remaining on the plants to dry naturally. This will allow them to store plenty of nutrients in the corms for next year's growth. Before frost when the tops have turned brown, trim them back to about four inches.

Many gardeners who live in warmer areas just leave them in the ground over winter and they come back year after year. Though this may be acceptable for some, the practice may encourage those thrips, other insects and diseases that should be avoided. So it is best to dig the corms and store in a cool, dry place at temperature around 40 degrees F. Digging and storage is necessary for growers in colder regions where glads are not hardy.

Begin digging by loosening the soil on both sides of the row. Lift the corms gently. Remove the foliage, leaving very little if any at the tops. Spread the corms in a dry location exposed to full sun for a day, then remove them to an airy location out of the sun to dry further. You may spread them on layers of newspaper. Some gardeners construct tables or trays with mesh bottoms for drying. Such structures can serve to dry other bulbs and corms after harvest. Stir the corms to allow all sides to dry, especially during damp weather. You may even expose them to an electric fan. Dried soil should fall away during the process. Remaining soil should be brushed off before final storage. During cleaning, the corms may be inspected. Those that are damaged or diseased should be discarded.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

It's So Easy To Grow Asparagus

I love asparagus grilled, steamed, sauteed, pureed, entreed or as a side, in salads, sandwiches, omelets. . .; well, you get the picture. But I hate paying high prices. Fortunately, this delicious vegetable can be grown in just about any area of the country, from USDA Climate zone 3 to 10.

Because asparagus is a perennial, it is often grown in the vegetable garden in a dedicated space where it can be left alone. But the plant is so beautiful, it can also be planted with other ornamental perennials. The lovely fern-like foliage is delicate and green in the summer and turns golden yellow in the fall. The main thing to remember is that the roots should be left undisturbed for the next few decades so your asparagus will prosper. Therefore, choose a permanent site.

Asparagus prefers full sun and rich soil that is well-drained with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Contact your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service for instructions on taking soil samples. For a nominal fee they will have it tested for you and provide you with helpful results. Make sure you specify the crop because asparagus require good levels of potassium and phosphorus in the soil. To encourage production, take a soil sample every couple of years to make sure the pH and nutrient levels are correct.

Prepare the soil according to the soil test recommendations before you receive your asparagus so you can plant as soon as possible upon receiving them. When the soil temperature has reached 50 degrees F, prepare furrows about 15 inches wide, 8 inches deep and 4 feet apart, removing weeds and debris. Incorporate lots of composted organic matter, cultivating deeply. It wouldn't hurt to sprinkle wood ashes and bone meal to the furrow. If you use synthetic fertilizer, incorporate it into the soil a couple of weeks before planting. Pack the enriched soil in the bottom of the trench and add a thin layer of topsoil.

Soak the roots in a bucket of water for a few minutes to rehydrate them. Place them in the trench 6 to 8 inches below the top of the furrow, crown up, about 12 inches apart. Add a couple of inches of topsoil to cover the roots. The plant crown should be just at the soil surface. Water deeply. Add more soil, if necessary. As the new shoots begin to grow, you should gradually add more topsoil around the shoots. Keep in mind that asparagus does not appreciate standing water, so soil may eventually be mounded around the plants to aid drainage.

Regular weeding is very important, but be careful not to disturb the crowns. Asparagus is quite drought tolerant, but adequate water is essential during plant establishment for the first two years. About 1 inch of water per week during the growing season should be sufficient.

Resist the urge to harvest your asparagus spears the first year. The plants must be well-established in order to provide abundant crops later. If you must, you may harvest a few spears the second year, but it would be best to wait. The third year you will be rewarded for your patience when you may harvest a few spears for about a month during the spring.

Productivity is enhanced by spreading a top-dressing of well-composted manure in the fall. In early spring before growth begins, cultivate the soil lightly. This will allow the soil to dry and warm a bit, encouraging earlier emergence. The earliest shoots are most tender. Harvesting ceases when the shoots begin to contain tough fibers. Always remember, even when your garden is well-established that you must leave enough spears to mature and strengthen your planting.

The asparagus beetle is a common pest in some parts of the country, feeding on the plants during the summer. Rotenone and malathion are commonly used to control them. If you choose to use chemicals, whether synthetic or organic, carefully follow label instructions. Companion planting is a popular technique among gardeners for repelling harmful insects. It is said that planting marigolds nearby helps to repel the beetles. Furthermore, asparagus seems to grow better in the presence of basil, nasturtiums, parsley and tomatoes. Asparagus does not do so well with mint and onions close by.

Pest populations can also be reduced by eliminating their hiding places. Remove and destroy top growth of asparagus when it turns brown to avoid attracting harmful insects. Weeding is equally important. 

At maturity, 100 feet of row may produce over 75 pounds of shoots.  When harvesting asparagus, cut the shoots at soil surface to avoid damaging those still below the surface.  The best time to harvest is in early morning so that the shoots are not exposed to heat.  Place the cut ends in a container of cool water to avoid wilting.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Come Feed The Birds

According to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, there are now over 51.3 million bird-watchers in the United States, and the number continues to grow. A birder is defined as an individual who "must have either taken a trip a mile or more from home for the primary purpose of observing birds and/or closely observed or tried to identify birds around the home." The vast majority do so at home. And why not? It is so easy and inexpensive to do.

If you are not yet a birder, you should consider this marvelous educational hobby. You'll delight in watching these feathered creatures, and as your knowledge increases so will your sense of satisfaction. If you are a bird-watcher, introduce someone else to the pleasure.

When our children were very young, we positioned a bird bath and feeders in view of a special window so they could watch and learn. And when our parents aged, we provided them with bird feeders so they could watch from their favorite chairs. Feeding the birds is a kindness for birds and people alike.

To feed the widest variety of birds, different types of bird feeders and foods should be used.

Platform and tray feeders are flat structures with short walls attached to the rims to prevent seed from falling off. The feeders may be set on the ground, mounted on poles or hung. Some are designed to be mounted beneath other types of feeders to catch spilled seed.

These can present a wide variety of seeds. Filled with millet, platform and tray feeders attract blackbirds, cowbirds, doves, juncos, chipping sparrows, house sparrows, tree sparrows, white-crowned sparrows and white-throated sparrows.

If corn is used, they will attract doves, grackels, house sparrows, jays, juncos, starlings and white-throated sparrows. If set on or near the ground, they will also attract bobwhite quail and ring-necked pheasants.

If peanuts are used, platform and tray feeders will attract cardinals, chickadees, doves, grackles, house finches, jays, juncos, sparrows, starlings and titmice.

Hopper feeders are like boxes with side panels usually of glass or acrylic. The panels are positioned with narrow openings at the base so that small amounts of seed can empty into a feed trough or tray. Of course, there are different sizes available for dispensing small seeds or peanuts.

Metal tube feeders are shaped like round metal cages. Some have perforated sides while others have wire mesh tubes, allowing different sizes of seed to be used. The smallest mesh is appropriate for dispensing Nyjer thistle seed. Those with larger perforations may dispense peanuts. The mesh or perforations allow birds to cling to the tube and eat from the sides. Trays may be attached to catch spilled seed.

The more common tube feeders have solid tubes, often of acrylic, with ports at the base for dispensing seed. Perches for the birds to mount upon are often attached. Trays may also be attached to these to save dropped seed.

Black oil sunflower seeds work very well in tube feeders, and there is very little waste. These attract chickadees, goldfinches, redpolls, nuthatches, pine siskins, titmice and woodpeckers. Add a tray to the bottom of the feeder and you'll also attract cardinals, crossbills, jays, purple finches and sparrows.

A tube feeder and tray with peanuts will attract cardinals, chickadees, doves, grackles, house finches and sparrows, jays, juncos starlings and titmice. Hanging peanut feeders draw chickadees, titmice and woodpeckers.

Nyjer seed feeders draw chickadees, doves, dark-eyed juncos, goldfinches, pine siskins, purple finches, redpolls and various sparrows.

Suet feeders come in many forms, but the most common basic element is the wire to hold a suet cake. Suet is a fat-based product that may also contain seed, peanut butter or insects. The cage is hinged and has a simple latch for locking. The simplest are hung or attached to the sides of other feeders. However, ingenious designers have come up with various improvements. The upside down suet cage is covered with a small roof to protect the cake from rain. Clinging birds hold on to the bottom of the structure and feed. Tail prop suet feeders are designed with woodpeckers in mind. Rather than in a square cake form, the suet can be presented in a log held in place by a round wire holder.

Suet feeders will bring cardinals, chickadees, creepers, kinglets, nuthatches, starlings, thrashers, woodpeckers and wrens. Suet with peanut butter draws bluebirds, cardinals, goldfinches, jays, juncos, kinglets, starlings, thrushes, woodpeckers and wrens.

There is even a suet feeder designed to simulate a tree trunk. Thin cakes consisting of suet and peanut butter are sandwiched between two slabs. This one is particularly attractive to woodpeckers.

Some birds have a sweet,...uh..., beak, so certain feeders are appropriately designed to hold slices of fruit, dollops of jelly or nectar. Bluebirds, cardinals, cedar waxwings, yellow-breasted chats, jays, mockingbirds, orioles, starlings, tanagers, thrashers, thrushes and woodpeckers enjoy fruit. We are all familiar with hummingburd nectar feeders. But nectar made more readily available is appreciated by cardinals, finches, orioles, tanagers, thrushes and woodpeckers.

Bluebirds like small insects like mealworms. Bluebird feeders are designed to hold the mealworms and to provide a protected environment for the birds as they dine.

Placement of your bird feeder is nearly as important as what you put in it. It should be situated where it is easy to view and convenient to fill.

The feeder should be near to trees and shrubs for shelter where they may assess the situation and wait until it is their turn to feed. Evergreens are perfect, providing protection from weather and a hiding place from predators. About 12 or 15 feet distance should be good. A combination of shrubs and trees can provide shelter for a greater number of species.

Hummingbird feeders should be protected from the wind in order to avoid spilling nectar. A shady place will keep the nectar relatively cool.

Birds may not visit your feeder right away. Sometimes it takes awhile for the news to get around. Be patient. But if the birds still don't come, reconsider whether the setting is hospitable.

Though they never ask a crumb from you, come feed the birds. You'll be glad that you do.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Behind A Garden Wall in El Paso

What grows behind that garden wall? Follow us and we'll show you.

The landscape around El Paso, TX is stark and dry, seemingly inhospitable to all but the hardiest of plants. To think that one could grow a lush garden there seems impossible. But this lovely oasis welcomes you with its tropical appearance. See what this resourceful gardener has done as you take this photographic tour.

"It is a challenge to figure out what to plant but so much fun" she told me.

The bold entrance beckons us with colorful enticements and a hint of what grows beyond the garden door. Creeping fig (Ficus pumila) adorns the wall. Tropical palms lend the romance of desert oases while colorful Margarita Sweet Potato vines (Ipomea batatas) spill out of terra cotta and blue glazed planters.

Lovely shades of pink and white work well with the colors of the house and surrounding hills. But you'll also find other colors in flower and foliage.  A partial list of plants in this wonderful sanctuary includes:

Persian Buttercup (Ranunculus asiaticus), Mont Blanc Asiatic Lily (Lilium x 'Mont Blanc'), Red Carpet Border Lily (Lilium x 'Red Carpet'), Carolina Jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens), Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia), Upright Elephant Ear (Alocasia macrorrhizos), Black Stem Elephant Ear (Colocasia esculenta 'Fontanesii'), Wild Taro (Colocasia esculenta), Bat-Wing Passion Flower (Passiflora coriacea), Blue Passion Flower (Passiflora caerulea), Creeping Red Verbena (Verbena peruviana), Echinacea 'Magnus', Echinacea 'Sunset', Little Business Daylily, Chicago Apache Daylily, Aster x 'Monch', Pink Ice Plant (Delosperma cooperi), Blood Lily (Haemanthus coccineus), Dahlia x 'Fleurel', Dahlia x 'Apache', Dahlia x 'Golden Emblem', Dahlia x 'Rosella', Dahlia x 'Red Majorette', Dahlia x 'Kennemerland', Dahlia x 'Ace Summer Sunset', Caladium 'Aaron', Caladium 'Postman Joyner', Golden Groundsel (Ligularia dentata 'Desdemona'), Adam's Needle (Yucca filamentosa) and Red Hot Poker (Kniphofia uvaria).

The Pleasure Of Bird-bathing

When we think of attracting birds to our yards, we think of bird feeders. To be sure, they do bring many species within viewing distance. But birds are also attracted to water. And they especially appreciate bird baths this time of year because of heat and dry conditions. A large population of juvenile birds and the start of migration season will bring even more to bathe. In addition, there are many species that dine on insects and would never frequent a seed feeder. So the addition of water features will attract more such as flycatchers, mockingbirds, tanagers, thrashers, thrushes, vireos and warblers.

There are many kinds of baths available on the market: bowls and dishes, puddles and fountains, some suspended and some set on the ground. With a little ingenuity, you can make your own from a tray, garbage can lid or a Frisbee. Any type of bath will attract birds, but some species prefer particular structures and bath placement. To attract a diversity of species, consider more than one type of bath.

The most popular type of bird bath with humans is the bowl or dish on a 3' pedestal, perhaps because they function well as landscape ornaments. Fortunately, they are popular with many birds, too. They readily attract cardinals, catbirds, chickadees, doves, finches, goldfinches, mockingbirds, nuthatches, orioles and sparrows.

Dishes or bowls set on the ground or partially buried are especially popular with ground birds such as quail. But they also attract doves, juncos, robins and sparrows.

Multi-level pools and fountains can have the added attraction of moving water powered by recirculating submersible pumps. These types of baths draw buntings, cardinals, catbirds, cedar waxwings, chickadees, doves, finches, flycatchers, goldfinches, grosbeaks, mockingbirds, nuthatches, orioles, sparrows, titmice, thrushes, vireos and warblers.

Moving water can also be provided by a simple dripper or a garden hose with a water fountain placed above a bowl, dish or shallow pool. The Water Wiggler is a useful battery-operated device that provides movement by gently agitating the water. The sound of the water attracts birds likes doves, juncos, mockingbirds, quail, robins, sparrows and towhees.

Even a small hanging cup will attract a few little birds like chickadees, finches and titmice for a drink.

Hummingbirds seem like they're always on the move. Just as they eat in flight, they bathe on the wing. To please them, set up a mister near your hummingbird feeder or over your pedestal bath. They'll fly to and fro through the mist, then perch somewhere in a tree to preen and dry.

Keeping bird baths is a simple and pleasurable task. Here are a few tips:

• Provide clean water. Still water may need to be replaced daily since it can become stagnant in the heat. Flowing water may be freshened less frequently.
• Refill the bath before it becomes dry. This is always important, but especially so if you are running a submersible pump.
• Maintain a shallow depth. Water more than 2" deep is too deep for the little creatures. They want to bathe, not swim.
  
• Provide non-slip footing. Plastic and glazed ceramic baths my have slippery surfaces. You may improve them by creating small islands or shoals of pebbles in the center or around the edges.
• Extend the bathing season by adding a thermostatically controlled water heater.

So, while the time is best, set up a bird bath near your home. The birds will show their appreciation by providing you with an educational and entertaining experience.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.

Fall Bulbs For Warm Climates

Well, of course fall is on the way. And though some parts of the U.S. are already enjoying moderating temperatures, we in the Deep South are not. So it's difficult for us to get into the mood to think about planting fall bulbs. In fact, one customer recently wondered whether there are any fall bulbs that perform reliably in our heat. For some of us, average minimum winter temperature is only 40 degrees Fahrenheit. So I decided to put together a quick list of fall bulbs that do well in warm climates.

As you scan the list below, you'll notice that a number and, usually, a letter follows each plant name. That is the warmest USDA climate zone where that plant is reported to succeed. If the plant does well in much colder zones, I feel it's unnecessary to state the climate range. However, there are some bulbs that are only successful in the warmest zones, so I noted their range, e.g. "9-11."

• Allium aflatunense 9b
• Allium giganteum 9b
  
• Allium sphaerocephalum 'Hair' 9b
  
• Allium moly 9b
  
• Allium 'Mount Everest' 9b
  
• Allium neapolitanum 9b
  
• Allium oreophilum syn. ostrowskianum 10b
  
• Allium schubertii 9b
  
• Allium siculum syn. bulgaricum) 9b
  
• Allium sphaerocephalum 10b
  
• Anemone blanda 10b
  
• Anemone coronaria (De Caen) 10b
  
• Camassia cusickii 9b
  
• Camassia leichtlinii 9b
  
• Chionodoxa forbesii 9b
  
• Chionodoxa luciliae 9b
  
• Colchicum spp. 11
  
• Crocus sativus 9b
  
• Crocus speciosus 9a
  
• Crocus vernus 11
  
• Crocus zonatus 10b
  
• Erythronium revolutum 9b
  
• Freesia 8-11
  
• Fritillaria persica 10a
  
• Fritillaria uva-vulpis 9b
  
• Hippeastrum papilio (Butterfly Amaryllis)8 - 10
  
• Hippeastrum hybrids (Dutch and South African Amaryllis) 8 - 11
  
• Ipheion uniflorum 9b
  
• Iris danfordiae 9b
  
• Iris x hollandica 9b
  
• Iris reticulata 9b
  
• Lycoris aurea 10b
  
• Lycoris radiata 9b
  
• Lycoris squamigera 11
  
• Muscari latifolium 9b
  
• Muscari macrocarpum 9-11
  
• Puschkinia scilloides var. libanotica 9b
  
• Ranunculus asiaticus 8a - 11
  
• Scilla hyacinthoides (syn. campanulata) 10b

The following narcissus are known to do well into zone 10b:

• Narcissus Accent
  
• Narcissus Actaea
  
• Narcissus Barrett Browning
  
• Narcissus Bell Song
  
• Narcissus Carlton
  
• Narcissus Chinese Sacred Lily
  
• Narcissus Dutch Master
  
• Narcissus Fortissimo
  
• Narcissus Golden Bells
  
• Narcissus Grand Soleil d'Or
  
• Narcissus Hawera
  
• Narcissus Ice Follies
  
• Narcissus Jetfire
  
• Narcissus Mount Hood
  
• Narcissus Pheasant Eye
  
• Narcissus Pipit
  
• Narcissus Replete
  
• Narcissus Rijnveld's Early Sensation
  
• Narcissus Rip Van Winkle
  
• Narcissus Tahiti
  
• Narcissus Sir Winston Churchill
  
• Narcissus Tete-a-Tete
  
• Narcissus Thalia

Beginning July through December, you'll find a great selection of fall bulbs for warm climates at GoGardenNow.com.

Wild and Wonderful Ivy

Most of us think of ivy as a rampant but boring evergreen ground cover. But look closer and you’ll find a plant with a myriad of interesting variations that can not only provide mass ground cover, but also elegance and curiosity as a potted, trellised or even bonsai plant. Plants in the genus Hedera (Latin for ‘ivy’) are characterized by twining vines with aerial roots that assist them in their ascension.

Ivies are woody plants that spread out until they find something that lets them spread up. When they climb they attach themselves via root-like hold fasts. Ivy can cover slopes, chain link fences and is in fact a plant of choice used to cover massive sound barriers along interstate highways. As a vine for growing in shade, it is unsurpassed. If you want ivy to grow on a structure, fasten it as desired, then watch it go. As far as price per square foot is concerned, ivy is notably inexpensive.

All Hedera, regardless of species, have many things in common. Its foliage is alternate, 3-5 lobed or entire, often variegated. There are various cultivars and growth habits. The leaves range in color from creamy white to deep green with uncounted natural and hybridized variations. It produces umbels of tiny, 5-lobed greenish flowers followed by berry-like fruits in fall. The fruits are toxic to humans but not to animals.Hedera have two distinct growth phases. A young, juvenile plant often has lobed, minutely hairy leaves, adventurous rootlets, and climbs. The older, mature plant has larger, mainly broadly ovate leaves without lobes. Mature plants produce flowers and fruits. This latter phase is seldom seen when the plant is grown indoors. Mature unlobed ivies grown vertically often produce lobes, so pay attention if that is a concern of yours. Lobing is also affected by seasonal variation. This plant mutates readily and is generally hardy to USDA climate zone 5. Zones 6-10 are ideal. Climate zones 7-10 are best for variegated cultivars. Your nearby Cooperative Extension Service office can help you determine your soil pH by a very inexpensive soil sample.

They can live in bright to low light, but variegated forms require higher light, turning greener in low light. They tolerate average to dry conditions but must be well watered during extending dry spells. In addition, the soil must be well drained and completely dried out between irrigation cycles or ivy will get root rot. Hedera prefers humid climates but will tolerate average humidity.

While ivy grows in full sun, exposure to wind can cause leaf burn. It's ideal for shady gardens because it thrives in dark shade. Ivy makes an extensive root system that is tough and deep. Digging it out is a real chore. But, if you decide to remove an established plant it will not return from roots left in the ground once the major stems and leaves have been eliminated.

Be careful when deciding whether to plant ivy outdoors; the same qualities that make them a quick solution for covering up "problem areas" in your garden can make them quick weeds. The very characteristic that makes it a fine ground cover can render it unwelcome: it covers ground. Ivy can be troublesome if completely unchecked, but it’s nothing like kudzu. Ivy does not damage trees or sound structures. It isn't a parasite. It cannot harm a mature tree, but it could outlive it and therefore give the impression that it's killing it when actually the tree is just old. It cannot collapse a sound building. If it’s not pruned it can get into gutters or under shingles and dislodge them under its own weight. A mass of ivy can pull off stucco that's old or not firmly attached, but the plant itself will not do structural damage. In fact, it can protect a building from weather and provides extra insulation.

There are many Hedera species and I am going to describe 6 of them. The ones most common in the U.S. are the first three in the list, H. helix, H. canariensis, H. colchica.

Helix, which means "twining", refers to the way the ivy leaf attaches to the stem. H. helix has several subspecies (helix- English ivy, hibernica- Irish ivy, poetarum-Italian ivy, to name a few) but in general any ivy that starts with “H. helix” is often called English ivy. Brought to North America by colonial settlers, this plant grows easily in many types of soil and in sun or shade and is hardy from Zones 5-9. English ivy is fairly drought-tolerant once it is established. Its two to four inch leaves are alternate and simple or entire (unlobed). Juvenile plants’ leaves have 3-5 lobes and adult leaves are ovate to rhombic (diamond-shaped). Mature plants bear pale green flowers and produce berry-like fruit in fall clusters. English ivy can out-compete grasses, herbs and trees because it is a vigorous climber. In the south, H. helix can grow throughout the year. It mounds up to 1’ tall and climb up to 50’.

H. canariensis (African ivy, Algerian ivy, Canary Island ivy, Madeira ivy or Elephant Leaf ivy) is native to north Africa and the Iberian peninsula. It is distinguished by red leaf stems and 4-8” long heart-shaped or 3-lobed glossy emerald-green leaves. A variegated form is also available. A vigorous climber, this tropical or sub-tropical plant is damaged if temperatures fall below 20F (-6.6C). Growing only in Zones 8 - 10, it is adaptable to various soils and pH, but prefers rich, moist soil in partial sun to shade. It establishes and grows rapidly. If you live in Zone 7 or cooler, African ivy makes a good houseplant.

H. colchica (Persian ivy or Colchis ivy) is native to Asia, Georgia, Russia, northern Turkey and Iran. It's hardy to USDA climate zone 5 or 6 through 9 or 10. Foliage is 3-8” long, dark green, heart-shaped, leathery. When crushed the leaves are refreshingly aromatic.

H. rhombea (Japanese ivy) is native mainly to Japan and Korea. In the U.S. it thrives in Zones 6-9. Characterized by unlobed ovate or triangular leaves only 2" long, Japanese ivy is generally expensive and hard to find.

H. azorica is native to the Azores and thus known only as Azores ivy. Fan-shaped light green leaves grow 3" long on this fast climber. New growth is white and hairy.

H. nepalensis, or Nepal Ivy, has elliptic lobes with 3-6 “teeth.” Native to Himalayas, Afghanistan and western China, it has weak vigor.

I love ivy because it can be elegant, whimsical or purely functional depending on the variety. Fortunately, my Hedera wish list is almost complete. Here are my favorites so far:

H. helix ‘Baltica’- Flat, green, palmate foliage is more heart-shaped and has white veins. Grows in Zones 5-9.

H. helix 'Gold Child'- Variegated flat, palmate green leaves are splashed with gray and broad green-gold margins. Hardy from Zone 5 to 9.

H. helix 'Needlepoint'- Its delicate willowy leaves are under 1" long and look like a bird’s foot, but is hardy from Zone 5 to 9.

H. helix 'Telecurl'- Grows in Zones 5-9 and has a green ruffled leaf is curled between 5 lobes.

H. helix 'Anne Marie'- Variegated flat, hand like leaves have creamy colored lobes.

H. helix 'Ivalace' aka ‘Wilson’- Rippled 5 lobed dark green leaves have crimped margins that curve upward. Hardy in Zones 5-9.

H. helix ‘Teardrop’- 2002 Ivy of the Year. Mostly unlobed foliage that elongate to a point. Slow growing and stiffly branched. Has survived - l5 degree F temperatures.

H. canariensis Gloire de Marengo'- Zones 6-9. Heart-shaped or triangular foliage with wide white margins and grayish centers.

H. colchica 'My Heart'- It's hardy in USDA climate zones 5 - 10.  Needs some shade in zones 7-10.  You'll love its particularly large, green heart shaped leaves.

H. colchica 'Dentata Variegata'- won three awards from the Royal Horticultural Society (1907, 1979, and 1984). Large triangular leaves with a green center and light green edge have sharper points than usual at the end of its lobes. Hardy from Zones 6-9 and can take greater cold than ‘Gloire de Marengo’.

Hedera can be rooted in water using a stem or the tip cuttings of juvenile growth. A hormone to encourage growth works well too. While cuttings can be easy to do, finding the variety you want can be difficult. If you purchase an established plant, plant it in well drained soil just deep enough so that the root ball is flush with the surrounding earth. Let the soil completely dry between watering. Plant them 18” apart or more and they’ll fill in the space quickly. The original plants are considered mature after 2 years and can be thinned. If you’ve working in a small area that might be the best thing to do, but if you’re in a large space, thin what you need to keep it manageable. But how do you keep this plant manageable?

Cutting is successful with persistence but does not kill the plant. However, the use of cutting and then applying an herbicide may provide better control. Digging or pulling a plant up provides immediate control with little re-growth, but don’t leave the pulled plants on the ground; they can root and continue to grow.

Control Hedera that is growing up trees by cutting the vine at waist height, loosening the vine around the limbs and removing the roots. If the root can not be removed by hand, strip the bark and notch the exposed section of the vine. Paint on an undiluted herbicide such as glyphosate.

Hedera can have various pests and problems. Avoid the most common (root and stem rots and leaf spot) by not over irrigating. If you’ve got a rampant leaf spot problem use a fungicide. Spider mites are the most serious pests, usually on plants grown indoors. Treatment requires pesticides that are specifically developed for spider mite control (miticides or acaricides). Because most miticides do not affect eggs, a repeat application at an approximately 10- to 14-day interval is usually needed for control. Aphids can be controlled chemically, but also tend to kill other good bugs in the area. Try spot treatment first. Mealybugs have never destroyed ivy, but if they bother you try using the thumb and forefinger. If they’re really doing damage try Malathion. Whiteflies; I hate them but they’re easy to control. If your ivy is grown inside, try a white fly trap. If the ivy is outside an insecticidal soap is the least toxic material that can also get rid of them.

To sum up:

• Plant Hedera at the same level it grew previously; don’t bury it.

• Plant 18” apart.

• Let the ground dry between irrigations.

• Hedera is typically hardy between Zones 5-9.

• Monitor the borders of the desired growth area to prevent escape.

Whether inside or out, Hedera is a wonderful plant with many potential applications. With a little love and care, this is a plant that will grow where and how you want it. Take some time to examine ivy varieties; you’ll be surprised at all Hedera have to offer.

Return to GoGardenNow.com.