Something you should know BEFORE you buy your plants.

Will those plants survive the winter where you live?

Nearly every plant catalog and label comes with valuable information for each plant to help gardeners like you enjoy growing success. One of those info bits might read something like this, “Zone: 3 to 8”. But what does it mean for you? You'd better check out the climate map.

Making sense of local climates

Climatologists and horticulturists have long tried to make sense of the earth’s geography and climate to better understand how plants relate to their environments, and how they might perform in them. Such knowledge would help farmers and gardeners enjoy success. So climate zone maps were developed, sort of like road maps to benefit just about anyone who worked with plants. There was a lot riding on it, too, not only for gardeners, but because entire industries relied on the data for their businesses.

They had to gather and study climate data collected over many years. Imagine the many locations throughout the U.S. where weather statistics had to be recorded, then collated. That was a huge undertaking.

A short history of climate map-making

In 1990, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) published a climate zone map based upon data spanning the years from 1974 to 1986. The American Horticultural Society produced a map in 2003 from info gathered from 1987 to 2002. The Arbor Day Foundation released a map in 2006 from statistics taken from 1990 to 2005.

As you might expect, the climate zone delineations differed, which made matters rather confusing. In some cases, a location on one map would be in a different climate zone than on another. The spans of years differed. The locations of data gathering differed. So did their conclusions. Frankly, there were some areas of the country where climate data wasn’t gathered at all. Perhaps it was because they were inaccessible, or there were just too many places to actually study.

Then, the USDA published another map in 2012 based on a larger sampling of data from 1976 to 2005. It’s called The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, and is the one in use today. It used an algorithm developed by the University of Oregon PRISM Climate Group. The method involved estimating climate conditions, which seemed like a pretty good idea.

How to read the map

The map shows a series of lines winding in and out of various parts of the U.S. Sometimes you’ll see enclosed patches or circles. Some of the spaces are very wide. Other spaces are quite narrow. The spaces between the lines are color-coded. These represent separate climate zones. There are 26 of them. You’ll see 1a and 1b, 2a and 2b, 3a and 3b, and so forth, all the way through 13a and 13b. Each of those zones represents a 5-degree Fahrenheit temperature range, and a corresponding range in Celsius.

Here’s an important point. The map is based upon the average annual minimum temperature. It says nothing about heat, humidity, or any other climate condition. What that means for any particular plant is that it is likely to survive the winter in whatever zone it’s rated for. If the plant is rated for zone 6, it will likely survive a minimum winter temperature of minus 10-degrees F. At any rate, the map only suggests the likelihood of survival; it’s not a guarantee.

The times they are a-changin'

I used to keep a large printed copy of the 1990 USDA map in my garden shop to display to shoppers, with a bright red push pin to show where we were located. If they were from another county or state, we’d find it on the map. “There---it---is---right-----THERE.” Those days are over. Though less nostalgic, the new map is downloadable to your computer, or you can use the interactive map on the USDA website. All you do is type your zip code into the field provided, press “enter" and Voilà!  You have your zone.

I don’t have the map on my wall now, and even if I did, you wouldn’t be able to see it. So, I’ve progressed with the times. I’ve included a link on every description page of my online plant catalog. If you’re considering whether a plant is right for your climate zone, just click the link. You’ll be taken to the USDA site under a separate tab (so you don’t lose your place in my catalog).

See for yourself

Check it out. Go to the plant catalog at GoGardenNow.com, and see the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map in action.

While you're there, be sure to sign up for our newsletter so you can be among the first to receive GoGardenNow news and gardening tips.

Behind The Garden Wall - Red Hills Desert Garden, St. George, Utah

Follow me to see what grows behind the garden wall.

The Red Hills Desert Garden is aptly named, as you can see. Situated on about 5 acres located above the city of St. George, Utah, the garden is described as "beautiful and smart." "Beautiful" because of its attractive layout and enchanting desert plant collection; "smart" because the garden "uses an average of five million gallons of water less per year than a traditional turf landscape. That’s enough water to support 50 average American homes for a year." 

Red Hills Desert Garden - opened in 2015 - is Utah’s first desert conservation garden, a collaboration of Washington County Water Conservancy District, City of St. George and Virgin River Program. It was established to showcase the beauty of a water-wise landscape, and to provide information to homeowners and businesses about designing, installing and maintaining one. It helps that the garden signage is well-placed and clear.

Simple fascinations

You'd think that such an exhibit would be a dull place to visit, but it's not. We were there on a Sunday afternoon. There were many families strolling about, picnicking nearby, and kids having the time of their lives. Certain features captivated the children most: dinosaur tracks, the meandering stream, and areas off the designated paths.

These attractions, of course, kept their parents occupied with scolding, "Get off the dinosaur tracks", "¡Sal del agua!", and "Come back here RIGHT NOW! NOW! I'LL COUNT TO THREE!" Then they'd demonstrate their arithmetical skills, and threaten to do it again.

Chilopsis linearis

I had a child-like fascination with the plants. Some, like the Red Yucca (Hesperaloe parviflora), Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis), Prickly Pears (Opuntia spp), and Chollas (Cylindropuntia spp) I soon realized are ubiquitous in the environment. But they interested me, nevertheless.

Recurring questions

I wondered about those dinosaur tracks. What were they doing around here?

More than that, though, I wondered about the plants. Many of the landscapes in the American southwest feature plants are well-known to me - Agave, Lantana, Oleander, Yucca, Barrel Cactus, Prickly Pear Cactus, Parkinsonia and Vitex.

Agave americana var. marginata

Parkinsonia florida

Vitex agnus-castus

The recurring question in my mind was whether many of the native or otherwise unfamiliar plants would thrive in the hot, humid coastal Georgia climate. I already knew that some do - Prickly Pear cactus, for instance. What about some others in this garden?

Problem solving

About the dinosaur tracks. Seen from the air, the area around and above the Red Hills Desert Garden looks like a dried up mud flat. I'm guessing those lizards were wandering around when conditions were more clement and left their tracks in the muck. Or, perhaps they were looking for water when it was becoming scarce. The climate was changing - as usual - and the region becoming more arid. Eventually, the mud dried, and the impressions turned to stone.

We're not in such dire straits, but Lord knows we coastal plain gardeners would have fewer worries and fatter pocketbooks if we didn't have to irrigate our plots so much. During some summers, the crispy grass under our feet is an immediate concern.

Not only does summer heat and occasional drought cause problems, some of us have poor, sandy soil. There are deer to contend with, and even some 2-legged trespassers. I asked myself, "Self, are there any plants commonly used in the southwest - native or otherwise - that might solve some of our problems back home?"

Here are some plants I saw at Red Hills Desert Garden that I think would be most likely to adapt to the climate at the southeastern edge of our continent. In addition to being drought tolerant, some might be deer resistant, and those armed with spines might deter trespassers.

Caesalpinia gilliesii

Cereus peruvianus

Agave parryi var. parryi

Agave parryi var. truncata

Euphorbia rigida

Gazania rigens 'Sun Gold'

Malephora lutea

Oenothera speciosa 'Siskiyou'

Opuntia violacea var. santa rita

Yucca rostrata

Zinnia acerosa

Zinnia acerosa

Would they adapt? What do you think? Do you have experience with any of these? Leave a comment.

FAQ: How many plants will I need?

Photo by Dominika Roseclay from Pexels

Q. I'm planning a landscape project. How many plants will I need?

A. Here are some general spacing guidelines applicable to many species for planting bare root plants, 2-1/2" pots, 3-1/2" and 4" pots, 4-1/2" pots and Quart-size pots.

Bare root plants should be spaced 4" to 8" apart. If 4" apart, you'd need 9 per sq. ft. If 6" apart, you'd need 4 per sq. ft. If 8" apart, you'd need 2.25 per square foot.

2-1/2" pots should be spaced 8" to 12" apart. Again, if 8" apart, you'd need 2.25 plants per sq. ft. If planted 10" apart, you'd need 1.45 plants per sq. ft. If planted 12" apart, you'd need 1 plant per sq. ft.

3-1/2" and 4" pots should be spaced 12" to 18" apart. Again, if 12" apart, you'd need 1 per sq. ft. If 15" apart, you'd need 1 plant per 1.56 sq. ft. If 18" apart, you'd need 1 plant per 2.25 sq. ft.

4-1/2" pots and Quart-size pots should be spaced 18" to 24" apart. Again, if planted 18" apart, you'd need 1 plant per 2.25 sq. ft. If planted 24" apart, you'd need 1 plant per 4 sq. ft.

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FAQ: What is the advantage of plants in 3-1/4 inch pots over 2-1/2 inch pots?

Q. What is the advantage of buying plants in 3-1/4 inch pots over 2-1/2 inch pots, or vice versa?

A. The advantage has more to do with your circumstances and choice than with the pot sizes themselves. The better choice is subjective.

I'm including a picture of Asiatic Jasmine - Trachelospermum asiaticum - in a 2-1/2 inch pot (left) and 3-1/4 inch pot (right). Beside the obvious difference in pot size, you see a larger plant and larger root mass in the 3-1/4 inch pot. You should expect that the larger plant will establish itself and spread faster than the smaller one.

But there are other considerations for you: time and money. If you have a lot of area to cover, and your budget is limited, you might do better with plants in 2-1/2 inch containers. Sure, it'll take a little longer to achieve the desired coverage, but you'll have more money left in your pocket.

However, plants in larger containers may be planted farther apart. Then it'll take them a little longer to fill in the space. Soooo, you might end up spending the same if you buy the larger plants, and increase the spacing.

On the other hand, the difference in time to achieve coverage might be negligible, depending upon their actual rate of growth. That depends on many factors: climate, soil, care.

Large plants are more noticeable in the landscape from the get-go. If that matters to you, go with the larger plants.

If I had all the money I wanted, I'd install the larger plants cheek-to-jowl, and get instant coverage. But I don't. So I, as you, would make my decision based upon the present circumstances. What do you have more of? Time or money? How would you compromise?

Dear Reader, I'd like to know what you think. How have you handled these kinds of decisions? Let us know in the Comment section. I'd love to hear from you.

Better Homes and Gardens Promotes Some Of My Favorite Easy-To-Grow Perennials

Naturalized Daylilies

Better Homes and Gardens published a very helpful gardening article a few years ago promoting some of my favorite easy-to-grow perennials. I enjoyed it so much that I want to share some excerpts with you.

Coneflower - Echinacea purpurea

First on their list was Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea). "Hot, sunny weather won't stop coneflower from producing armloads of flowers from early summer until fall. This purple-flowering native is a snap to grow... ...The nectar-rich flowers will also attract butterflies and hummingbirds to your garden."

Coreopsis 'Moonbeam'

Second was Coreopsis. "Equally at home in containers or the landscape, Coreopsis is a must-have perennial for novice and experienced gardeners. This cheerful plant puts on a nonstop flower show from late spring to fall..."

Rudbeckia 'Goldstrum'

Black-Eye Susan (Rudbeckia) was also praised. "The more you cut the bold daisylike flowers of black-eyed Susan, the more blooms these prolific perennials will produce. ...black-eyed Susan thrives in full sun and can tolerate drought. It’s also a bee and butterfly favorite."

Hemerocallis 'Autumn Red'

Daylily (Hemerocallis) was honored. "Talk about easy! With daylilies, all you have to do is plant them in a sunny spot and stand back. After that, these rugged perennials need very little care..."

Catmint (Nepeta), of course, is favored by cats and their fawning humans. Better Homes noted, "Also called catmint, Nepeta is so easy to grow. Sporting graceful stalks of blue, white, or pink flowers in the spring, Nepeta will quickly rebloom if you cut the plants back after the first flush of flowers fade. The flowers are highly attractive to bees and butterflies. Nepeta also has fragrant foliage..."

Sedum 'Lemon Ball'

Sedum made the list. How I do love sedum! "Stage a colorful fall finale in your garden by including a generous supply of sedum. ...Sedums are prized for their showy, nectar-rich flowers that feed hordes of hungry insects in the late summer and fall. And, when not in flower, you can still enjoy the plants’ brightly colored fleshy foliage."

Heuchera 'Palace Purple'

Heuchera is hot nowadays. It seems growers can't get enough of coming up with new colors. Better Homes said, "Do you remember the scene in the movie The Wizard of Oz when the entire landscape magically goes from black and white to color? Well that’s what will happen in your own shady backyard when you let Heuchera steal the show....Heuchera makes an excellent groundcover or container plant."

Achillea 'Coronation Gold'

Yarrow (Achillea), storied in legend and song, was mentioned. "Some perennials seem to thrive on neglect. Yarrow, for example, blooms its head off even in poor soil or during times of drought. The plant's fragrant, ferny foliage supports a midsummer explosion of gorgeous flowers... It's deer- and rabbit-resistant, too." All true!

Better Homes and Gardens listed several more perennials worth your attention. Be sure to read the entire article and view the slideshow. Easy-To-Grow Perennials.

What do you think? Do you have some easy-to-grow perennials you'd like to rave about? Let us know in the comment section. We'd love to hear from you.

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Strolling Around To Discover Deer Resistant Plants

Big honkin' buck captured by my game cam

I'm frequently asked about deer-resistant plants. A customer who lives on Skidaway Island, Georgia declared that "deer eat absolutely everything" in her yard. (I'm sure they don't, for I've explored Skidaway Island since my youth, and the island is far from denuded.) Of course she wanted to know what deer won't eat.

The first thing anyone needs to understand is that very hungry deer will eat practically anything. They're almost proverbial billy goats. They won't eat tin cans, but goats don't either.

I was on Kiawah Island working on another project. Kiawah is much like Skidaway, so, inspired by her query, I decided to take a stroll to see what plants deer hadn't touched.

Viburnum odoratissimum

The first ornamental shrub I spotted was Viburnum odoratissimum, aka Sweet Viburnum. There was nary a nibble from it. V. odoratissimum is native to Asia. It is evergreen, grows to about 20' high, and as wide, and is at home in USDA climate zones 7-9. I don't know why it was untouched. Perhaps it smells better than it tastes.

Palm frond

Then there were palms. Lots and lots of palms of various species. Some were native; some were not. Palms are wonderful ornamentals, from the lowly Serenoa repens - aka Saw Palmetto - to the stately Roystonea regia - aka Royal Palm. Palms are typically considered to be for tropical to semi-tropical climates, but the Rhapidophyllum hystrix - aka Needle Palm - is cold-hardy to zone 6a. I suppose palms are deemed inedible by deer because they are stringy and hard to chew.

Persea borbonia

Redbay - Persea borbonia - was untouched even though deer reportedly like it. I didn't spy any damaged by ambrosia beetle, either. Redbay isn't often used as an ornamental, but it could be. The leaves are fragrant when crushed. It's a small, evergreen tree. Folks used to use the leaves for seasoning. American Indians used the leaves as a medicine to induce vomiting. I would guess that deer know of that effect, so avoid it unless needing an emetic.

Ilex vomitoria berries

Moseying along, I came upon a stand of native Yaupon holly - aka Ilex vomitoria. It was unmolested, perhaps because it is also a strong emetic. A beverage of the leaves will make you vomit. It appears, however, throughout the South as an ornamental shrub or small tree in compact, multi-stemmed, and weeping forms. The berries are very appealing.

Cycas revoluta

Sago Palm - aka Cycas revoluta - is practically ubiquitous in these parts. It's native to Japan, but you'd think it was native to the Southeastern United States. It's not a palm. It is a cycad, related to the deer-resistant native Zamia integrifolia or Coontie. No wonder deer don't eat it; it's poisonous.

Farfugium japonicum

Farfugium japonicum - aka Ligularia, Ragwort, Leopard plant, Leopard's Bane - has grown in popularity in recent years. It's a fine perennial plant for partial shade to full shade. It was obvious to me that deer don't like it, perhaps because they somehow intuit that the plant contains tumorigenic alkaloids. Glossy, evergreen leaves - sometimes spotted - are gorgeous. The yellow flowers are mighty attractive and daisy-like. It's in the  Asteraceae family.

Juniperus conferta

Soon I spied some juniper ground cover - Shore Juniper (Juniperus conferta). It's an ideal choice for a coastal garden because of its salt-tolerance. Deer will eat junipers, especially Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana). You can see evidence of that as you travel along interstate highways. But Shore Juniper has awl-like foliage which can put a hurtin' on the tongue.

Daniella tasmanica

Dianella tasmanica (Variegated Flax Lily) was uneaten. I don't know if it's supposed to be deer-resistant, but it certainly appeared so. It appears with growing frequency in perennial borders.

Cortaderia selloana

Cortaderia selloana, commonly known as pampas grass, was untouched. I understand exactly why. The sharp leaf edges will discourage anyone or thing from intruding. It's a stately grass, and certainly deserving of a place in the large landscape. It tolerates a wide range of temperatures, and is requires very little maintenance. Good thing, too. It's too sharp to handle without gloves, long-sleeves and trousers.

Illicium parviflorum

I saw some Illicium parviflorum - Yellow Star Anise - that had been abused, but not by deer. It's a fine shrub, and grows to a large size. The leaves are fragrant when crushed. Unfortunately, these individuals were planted in a hedge, expected to remain compact, and the foliage had been chopped up by a hedge-trimmer. Large-leaved plants do not look good when eaten up by a hedge-trimmer.

Yucca spp.

Yucca had not been touched. Understandably so. The sharp-pointed and fibrous leaves render it inedible for deer. It's a fine ornament, though, especially when in bloom.

Loropetalum chinense

Loropetalum chinense is a fairly new introduction to the landscaping community. It seems that new ones are released every year. It is known to be deer-resistant. This planting was no exception.

Eleagnus spp.

One of my least favorite landscape shrubs was undisturbed by deer - Eleagnus. I've hated it since I was a child. My mother made me prune hers into large globes, and I swear I could hear them growing as I walked away. I must say, however, that I did enjoy eating the fruits when no one else seemed to care. I've seen Eleagnus planted beside highway overpasses and in cloverleafs, probably to stop runaway traffic. They'll do that, for sure.

Parthenocissus quinquefolia

Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) was ignored by hungry deer. Though considered by some folks to be a nuisance vine, it makes a nice ground cover. It also covers stone walls very well. The scarlet fall foliage is gorgeous.

Afternoon shadows were lengthening. It was time for my saunter to end. I hoped that my impromptu discovery hour turned up a few plant choices for my friend to consider.

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FAQ: Are there any special requirements for bare root?

Asiatic Jasmine - Trachelospermum asiaticum - Bare Root

Q. Are there any special requirements for bare root? Want to purchase but need to know what I’m getting into.

A. Good question. Since there is no soil around the roots to provide protection, they must not be allowed to dry out. When the plants arrive, set the bundles upright in the box. Protect the package from exposure to wind, sun, freezing temperatures. Keep slightly moist.

When planting, do the same. A few minutes exposure can be damaging.

Have the soil prepared and the holes "punched" in the ground before you begin. Cover the roots after planting each one. Water well after planting to set the soil in contact with the roots.

Do not allow synthetic fertilizer - especially dry granules - to contact the plants above or below the soil line.

That about covers it.

I hope this helps. If you have more questions, don't hesitate to ask. If you have anything to add, we'd love to hear from you. Let us know in the comment section.

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National Garden Bureau Announces: 2019 is the Year of Salvia nemorosa!

National Garden Bureau (NGB) announces 2019 as the Year of Salvia nemorosa! Salvia nemorosa is a hardy salvia that thrives in most gardens. Popular varieties you might have heard of include ‘Mainacht’ (MayNight), ‘Caradonna’ and ‘Ostfriesland’ (East Friesland). Those are all great selections, but new ones are now available. Look for ‘New Dimension’, ‘Bordeau’ ‘Salute’, ‘Swifty’, the Fashionista™ series and Salvia ‘Blue by You’.

In addition to the article by NGB, you should also read my article, The Saving Graces of Sage, for lots of great info.

Have you grown salvia in your garden? Plan to? We'd love to hear what you have to say about it. Tell us in the comment section.

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