Conserve Water With A Rain Garden

Water conservation has been on almost everyone's mind for many years. When I was a kid, my parents would remind me to "turn off the faucet all the way! Money doesn't grow on trees!" A more recent concern is that water may run off to where it isn't so easily accessible.

In an effort to help rain water soak into the ground instead of flowing from pavement to the sea, many municipalities require that new commercial developments construct "retention ponds." Intentions may be good, but those things are expensive, dangerous and ugly. Located on high-priced real estate and usually surrounded by chain link fences for safety/liability reasons, they look like marshy dumps filled with plastic bags, styrofoam cups, disposable diapers and whatever else is washed downhill.

How much better it would be for homeowners to take matters into their own hands and construct rain gardens. Rain gardens are nothing more than shallow depressions in the yard located near driveways or roofs to collect water runoff. Planted with moisture-loving plants, they become attractive features in the landscape that serve a good environmental purpose. They can even attract wildlife. Rain gardens are low-maintenance, too.

Here is how to go about it; you can begin any time of year. Choose a site where water would naturally shed: a bit downhill from a downspout or roof, air conditioning unit, driveway or walk. You may direct water in the right direction with drain tubing or a very shallow swale. In my opinion, rain gardens near homes should be 15 feet or more away from the foundation. Exposure to full sun is desirable, but not necessary.

Plan the size of the rain garden by drawing the contour of the area with marking paint. If you need to make changes, you can edit your work by erasing the marks with your foot when the paint has dried.

Size is not very important. Adapt it to the space available. Approximately 25 square feet is okay; 100 square feet is fine; larger is better.

When you are satisfied with the contour, remove the sod and construct a shallow depression. The sides should slope gradually. You may add a few inches of soil as a low berm around the edge of the down-hill side to prevent water from escaping.

Keep in mind that you aren't constructing a pond, so it need not be very deep; 6 inches to 8 inches deep is sufficient. You don't need to install a liner, either. The garden need not be constantly wet; the idea is for rain water to soak into the soil, not to stand indefinitely. If, however, you wish to form a bog garden, you can do that by digging the depression a bit deeper.

Choose plants that like moist soil. Native grasses, sedges, perennials and small woody shrubs are ideal. Many native plants are recognized for their ornamental value. Sometimes they even establish themselves naturally! But non-native plants are good, too. Whether to weed or not is your choice.

An added advantage of a rain garden is that it doesn't require mowing. HooRAY!!! That much less to do. Just mow around it and go on.

Maintenance is minimal. Trimming brown stalks in early spring will keep your garden tidy and allow new growth to sprout unhindered.

If you would like to see what a rain garden looks like before you begin construction, check with nearby nurseries, botanical gardens and nature centers. Since rain gardens are becoming quite popular lately, you shouldn't have far to travel. For more precise information, resources are available on the internet.

Your new rain garden will enable you to conserve water, enhance your gardening experience, beautify your home, provide habitat for wildlife, and maybe even reduce the time you spend maintaining your landscape. It's a great solution.

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Chill Out With Delosperma

Delosperma is a delightful evergreen ground cover that only came to my attention within the last few years. It is a succulent, low-growing perennial plant that lends a fresh, cool appearance even during hot weather. These plants are becoming widely known mostly due to the work of Dr. Panayoti Kelaidis of the Denver Botanic Garden.

Delosperma (pronounced del-o-SPUR-ma), commonly called "ice-plant" is native to South Africa where it grows in moderate to dry soils even in high mountain areas. Nevertheless it does nicely in much of the U.S. in climate zones 5 through 9.

The name, Delosperma, means "obvious seed", for they are rather large in relation to the rest of the flower. The common name, "ice plant", refers to the watery, succulent appearance and the icy green color of the foliage, along with other plant properties.

Delosperma is suitable for ground covers, rock gardens, alpine gardens, cactus and succulent gardens, hanging baskets, sunny perennial gardens and borders when planted with species having similar requirements.

There are about 14 species of Delosperma, but only a few are readily available commercially.

Delosperma basuticum thrives in USDA climate zones 5 through 9. Some report success into zone 11. Though I haven't been able to confirm this, I believe the species is named for Basotho, (now known as Lesotho) a region in south Africa where it is native. Maximum height is 3". Yellow to white flowers are produced all summer and into fall. It needs well-drained garden soil with pH ranging from slightly acid to slighty alkaline. It is drought tolerant. Mature plants grow to 12" across. It will produce a beautiful carpet in optimal conditions. Plant in full sun. Space at 8" to 12".

Delosperma cooperi is named for Dr. James G. Cooper(1830-1902), conchologist, geologist, ornithologist, zoologist. Dr. Cooper contributed a great deal to understanding the geology, flora and fauna of the Pacific Northwesst.

D. cooperi, also known as Trailing Ice Plant or Hardy Ice Plant, thrives in USDA climate zones 5 through 9. Flowers are pink to magenta.

D. x 'Mesa Verde', also known as D. x 'Kelaidis', is a new cultivar resulting from pollination by Dr. Kelaidis, mentioned before. It is well-worth seeking. 'Mesa Verde' has been reported to do well in USDA climate zones 4 through 9.

Delosperma nubigenum, which shares its common names with D. cooperi, is similar in habit to D. basuticum and D. cooperi. "Nubigenum" means "born in clouds", referring to its high-altitude native habitat. One might think that it preferred only cool climates, but it also thrives in USDA climate zones 5 through 9 or 10. Flower color is yellow.

Prepare the planting bed for Delosperma by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Service office for testing. Follow their recommendations. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil. Fertilizer may be used. If you choose to do so, incorporate fertilizer per the soil test recommendations, or 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more than 2 lbs. per 100 square feet, into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Container-grown Delosperma can be planted any time you have a shovel handy, but may require monitoring of soil moisture conditions during hot weather. But Delosperma is very forgiving.

Space plants 8" to 12" apart, as indicated earlier. Keep in mind that my spacing recommendations are approximate. If you want them to fill in quickly, plant closer together. If you have plenty of time and patience but less money, plant them farther apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill. Press soil around the roots. Do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" to 4" deep. Irrigate thoroughly.

Maintenance is minimal. A little weeding and occasional watering should do the trick.

For a low-maintenance, low-growing colorful groundcover that is drought-tolerant, consider Delosperma.

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The Dog Days Of Summer

Photo by Lum3n.com from Pexels

 

These are the Dog Days of summer. The Dog Days traditionally begin in early July and last until mid August, coinciding somewhat with the bright appearance of Sirius, the Dog star, in the northern hemisphere. But some allow that they stretch into early September.

I heard older folks speak of Dog Days when I was a child, and assumed they were so called because the weather was so sultry that dogs and we had a good excuse to avoid work and laze around on or under the porch. Not a bad idea, since Brady’s Clavis Calendarium (1813) describes it as a time “when the seas boiled, wine turned sour, dogs grew mad, and all creatures became languid, causing to man burning fevers, hysterics and phrensies.” The ancient Romans sacrificed a brown dog to appease Sirius, the apparent cause of it all. So staying near the house was not only cooler, but safer. Still is.

Our parents would let us lie in the shade during the hottest part of the day. But eventually they’d say, “Get movin’. You’ve got things to do”, as I do now.

The grass needs mowing. The truck needs repair. Tomato hornworms are chewing the Romas. And I need to plan ahead.

Believe it or not, fall is coming. When it arrives, I don’t want to lament that I accomplished so little during Dog Days. I'll get out and plant tomorrow morning when it's cooler. In the afternoon I'll just sit here in the shade while it’s hot and plan for fall.

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Planning And Planting To Conserve Water

Whether you garden in a dry region or one with typically adequate rainfall, it is always a good idea to think about water conservation and to plan your landscape accordingly. Three steps should top your list:

1. Have your soil tested. Soil tests can reveal a lot that you may not know. Your local garden center or nearby Cooperative Extension Service can help you. By suggesting how you may improve your soil, nutrient uptake by plants may be enhanced and water conserved.

2. Locate your water source. Will you be relying on a community water supply or your own well for irrigation? There may be ways to obtain water in other ways. Rain barrels can help you harvest and store water coming off your roof. Rain gardens catch run-off and prevent its loss. It might even be possible to take advantage of water dripping from your air conditioning unit! No, I am not kidding.

3. Put "the right plant in the right place." Walk around your landscape and map areas that are wet, dry, shady and sunny. Take note of sun exposure during different times of day. Typically, high areas or spots in your landscape will be dry; low-lying areas will tend to be moist. Select plants that have requirements appropriate to those sites. By planting sun-loving, drought-tolerant plants together, and by planting moisture-loving plants in wet areas you will avoid watering unnecessarily or under-watering.

Be creative! Think of all the ways you can save water, time, money and energy.

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Behind A Garden Wall: A Southern Tradition Kept Alive

Located on a bluff above the Vernon River about 12 miles from Savannah is a site steeped in history and horticultural tradition that we were recently privileged to visit.

Nearby is Beaulieu Plantation (pronounced b-YOU-lee), once owned by William Stephens, the secretary to the Trustees of Colonial Georgia. Stephens arrived in 1737, and was an important official in the colony's early years, even serving as President of Georgia after the colony's founder, Gen. Oglethorpe, returned to England. From its founding, the Trustees of Georgia were charged with conducting horticultural experiments to provide wealth for colonists and the investors who backed them. Cotton and grapes were among the experimental crops tested on the plantation for commercial value.

Beaulieu played a role during the American War of Independence in the 1779 Siege of Savannah. It was there that French commander Count Charles Henri d'Estaing brought troops ashore as part of an unsuccessful attempt to regain control of the city from the British.

Gunboats plied the Vernon River during the War Between The States. Just two years ago, in 2007, archaeologists discovered the sunken wreck of the Water Witch upstream where Confederate sailors burned it to keep it from being re-captured by Gen. Sherman's troops.

Many homes along the river are at the ends of long drives, screened by brick walls, fences and woods from the peering eyes of passersby, and their gardens are only enjoyed by invitation. Needless to say, I was thrilled by the opportunity to visit this one.

Our hosts met us as we arrived and generously devoted time to show us about. The private tour began with a short walk to the bluff. Before us lay the broad expanse of river and marsh with Ossabaw and other Georgia Sea Islands visible on the horizon. The rich history of the site was proudly detailed to us.

Looking back across the front lawn (the front of every river estate faces the water), we were in awe of the home and gardens framed by ancient live oaks. One tree in particular is believed to be over 400 years old. Lush beds planted with Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum), Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), Camellias (C. japonica and C. sasanqua), Azalea cultivars, Cast-iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior), Butterfly Ginger (Hedychium coronarium), perennials and ferns bordered the vista.

Near the entrance of the home, a koi pond designed by one of their sons and established with waterlilies (Nymphea spp.), Pitcher Plant (Sarracenia spp.) along with other bog plants and aquatics, is ornamented by an elegant stone sculpture carved by another son. Creeping Liriope (Liriope spicata), Ardisia (A. japonica), Leopard Plant (Ligularia dentata), Cyperus (C. papyrus) and ferns are sheltered by a large specimen Coastal Leucothoe (Agarista populifolia). The walkway meanders through an arbor covered by Dutchman's Pipe (Aristolochia spp).

Our hosts love to travel, and they have an unusual collection of plants to show for it. Among them are two or three Orchid Trees (Bauhinia spp.), unusual to find growing so far north. Seeds collected during their jaunts are often started in their century-old greenhouse.

The backyard brought more delights to the eye. A discrete shade garden bordered by Shrimp Plant (Justicia brandegeana), Coralberry (Ardisia crenata), ferns, and ornamented by small reptilian sculptures delights grandchildren. Shade-loving annuals such as impatiens (I. walleriana) add joyous color to dark corners. I felt like a kid again for there were Gloriosa Lilies (Gloriosa superba Rothschildiana) like my grandmother used to grow. We had to stop for me to tickle them and wait for the leaf tips to grasp my needle of pine straw.

Sunny beds are a riot of whatever plants tickle the fancy of our hosts, including Lily-of-the-Nile (Agapanthus africanus), Scarlet Sage (Salvia coccinea), the newest selections of Blanket Flower (Gaillardia cvs.) and Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia cvs.). Lush beds of native Coontie (Zamia integrifolia) draw our attention, and I am given a fruit that looks like a rusty pineapple. Rosemary shrubs (Rosmarinus officinalis) in twisted, bonsai shapes grow in the shallowest pockets of soil atop gray brick walls surrounding the swimming pool. The scene is completed in classic style by benches and large containers featuring the deep burgundy blades of Cordyline australis.

A vegetable garden and produce from their farm up-country amply supply their kitchen, along with an abundance that they share with friends.

As our morning visit drew to an end, we were invited in fine southern fashion to glasses of iced mint tea and pleasant conversation in the kitchen. I felt that President Stephens would have been pleased to know that over 270 years later such a fine horticultural tradition and gracious hospitality would continue on this historic river bluff.
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Discover Mazus

Homeowners spend a lot of time, energy and money trying to get grass to grow in the wrong places. Wet areas can be most frustrating. Plants (some more than others) need oxygen in the soil to thrive, and grass is no exception. In fact, it needs plenty. That is why aerating the lawn is a useful practice. But sometimes too much moisture seems to accumulate, particularly in low-lying areas, so grass won't grow. So what do you do with a soggy bottom?

The best solutions often take advantage of seemingly difficult situations, working with rather than against them. Instead of trying to change the hydrology of wet areas, it may be better to incorporate them into "bog" gardens featuring water-loving plants. Mazus is such a plant.

Mazus (pronounced MAY-zus) comes from the Greek meaning "teat", referring to the swellings near the center of the flower.

Wouldn't you like to follow plant explorers around to listen to their conversations?

"What does that look like to you?"
"Well, I think it looks like...a teat."
"Hmmm. That's what I was thinking, too. We've been away from home far too long."

The genus contains around 30 species of which very few are available, and not widely. Mazus reptans ("reptans" means "creeping") is most common. The evergreen to semi-evergreen, low-growing plant is native to the Himalayan region and parts of Australia. Mature height is usually from 1-1/2" to 2". Lots of purplish-blue flowers appear in late spring to early summer. A white-flowered form is also available. Foliage is light-green and oval-shaped.

Mazus reptans is cold hardy in USDA climate zones 4 to 9, thriving in consistently moist soil in full sun to partial shade. Some protection from the sun is appreciated in very hot climates. Recommended soil pH is 6.1 to 8.5. Plants spread rapidly, rooting as they go. Small, plug-like portions can be dug and re-planted elsewhere.

Prepare the planting bed for Mazus by cultivating at least 4" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office to determine the pH and to receive any recommendations they might offer. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 8" deep. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil. Fertilizer may be used. If you choose to do so, incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Mazus can be planted any time you have a shovel handy, but it is very important to water more frequently during hot weather to avoid plant stress.

Plant Mazus 8" to 12" apart. Keep in mind that my spacing recommendations are approximate. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill. Press soil around the roots. Do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" deep. Irrigate thoroughly.

Apart from watering (if necessary) and weeding until established, maintenance is minimal. Mazus has few serious pest and disease problems. Most only cause cosmetic problems. Aphids may be attracted to fast-growing shoots. Fungus may attack during spring when temperature fluctuates widely. Cold weather may damage foliage in coldest regions. It tolerates a little foot traffic.

If you need a low-maintenance, flowering ground cover for wet sites, this may be your plant.

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Brighten Your Garden With Coreopsis

One of the first perennials I favored has stuck with me all these years, and that is Coreopsis, commonly called Tickseed. Coreopsis is a bright-flowered plant with blossoms shaped like large asters. It is, in fact, part of the Aster family. Color is mostly yellow, but there are some in pink shades, too.

Tickseed comes by its name truly. Coreopsis means "bug-like", in reference to the little dry fruits called achenes which in some ways resemble insects. Not only are the seeds small and brown, they have hair-like structures that cause them to stick to passers-by who brush against them; and they don't just drop off, they must be picked off. Thus the name, Tickseed.

Coreopsis (pronounced "co-ree-AWP-sis") is native to the U.S., and, thankfully, its ornamental value is widely appreciated. Three species are commercially propagated and researched for new cultivars.

C. auriculata is commonly called Mouse-ear Tickseed. Auriculata (pronounced "awe-rick-ewe-LAY-tah") means "ear-like" or "lobed." It thrives in USDA climate zones 5 through 9. Maximum height is 6" to 12". C. auriculata 'Nana' is the shorter. ("Nana" means "dwarf.") It prefers slightly moist, well-drained garden soil with pH ranging from slightly acid to slighty alkaline. It will tolerate short periods of drought. Mature plants grow to 10" across. It will produce a beautiful carpet in optimal conditions. Plant in full sun. Space at 8" to 12". It is semi-evergreen, meaning that some foliage just above soil level will remain during cold weather.

C. auriculata is suited for butterfly gardens, sunny perennial gardens and borders when planted with species having similar requirements. The dwarf, 'Nana', is a fine, low maintenance ground cover.

C. grandiflora is commonly called Big-flowered Tickseed. It thrives in USDA climate zones 4 through 9. Maximum height is about 18". Plant in full sun and slightly moist, well-drained soil with pH widely ranging from 5.1 to 8.5. Space 18" to 24" apart. Soil should not be allowed to become bone-dry between waterings. C. grandiflora is deciduous, though some foliage may remain at lower levels in warm climates. Bare stems should be cut short in winter.

C. verticillata (pronounced "ver-tiss-ill-A-tah") is commonly called Thread-leaf Tickseed. It also thrives in USDA climate zones 4 through 9. Maximum height is 18" to 24". Plant in full sun to partial shade in moist, well-drained soil ranging from slightly acid to slightly alkaline. Space at 18" to 24" apart. C. verticillata should be cut short in winter.

Both C. grandiflora and C. verticillata are good for butterfly gardens, perennial gardens and borders, and container gardens.

Prepare the planting bed for Coreopsis by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil. Fertilizer may be used. If you choose to do so, incorporate 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Container-grown Coreopsis can be planted any time you have a shovel handy, but will require monitoring of soil moisture conditions during hot weather to avoid plant stress.

Space plants 12" to 24" apart, as indicated earlier. Keep in mind that my spacing recommendations are approximate. If you want them to fill in quickly, plant closer together. If you have plenty of time and patience but less money, plant them farther apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill. Press soil around the roots. Do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" to 4" deep. Irrigate thoroughly.

Maintenance is minimal. Dead-heading (pinching off spent flowers) can prolong the bloom season. Coreopsis have few pest and disease problems, but they aren't immune. Spider mites can cause problems during dry weather, but the little critters hate water. So overhead irrigation discourages them. If you are keeping the soil slightly moist, as you ought, spider mights shouldn't be a problem. Deer can do damage.

For a sunny summer plant that will brighten your garden and spirits, I highly recommend Coreopsis.

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Phlox In Flames Of Glory

When spring arrives in a blaze of glory, Creeping Phlox provides the flame. Indeed, Phlox (pronounced "flox") means "flame" or "blaze", and it is appropriate. Hundreds of flowers from red to blue to white carpet the ground in a breathtaking display nearly obscuring the evergreen foliage.

Phlox stolonifera (pronounced "stow-low-NEE-fur-uh") is native to much of the eastern U.S. in the Appalachians and Piedmont and thrives in USDA climate zones 4 through 9. Maximum height is up to 12". It prefers slightly moist, well-drained soil with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.8, but it will tolerate short periods of drought. "Stolonifera" means "bearing runners", which explains how it spreads. Mature plants grow to 18" across, but spreading and propagating along they way, P. stolonifera will produce a beautiful carpet in optimal conditions. Though it is commonly found in light shade to full shade, P. stolonifera will also tolerate full sun.

P. stolonifera is well-suited for woodland gardens, perennial gardens and borders, rock and alpine gardens when planted with species having similar requirements. It benefits from being divided about every 3 years or so. Young plants can be replanted in the same bed, moved to other places in the garden, or shared with friends.

Phlox subulata (pronounced "sub-you-LAY-tah") is also native to the U.S., mostly in the eastern and central regions, and thrives in USDA climate zones 3 through 9. Maximum height is up to 8" and spread is up to 24". It prefers slightly moist, well-drained soil in full sun to partial shade with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8, but will tolerate short periods of drought. "Subulata" means "awl-shaped" which describes the shape of the leaves. Due to the shape of the leaves, P. subulata is commonly called "Moss Pink", though the flower colors may not be pink. After spring bloom, the plants display an attractive mossy texture in the garden.

P. subulata is superb as a ground cover in perennial gardens and borders, rock and alpine gardens. Phlox is effective as a planting beside stepping stone paths. It is very beautiful planted atop walls and terraces, especially stone ones, where it can cascade over the side.

Prepare the planting bed for Creeping Phlox by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil. Fertilizer may be used. If you choose to do so, incorporate 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Container-grown phlox can be planted any time you have a shovel handy, but will require monitoring of soil moisture conditions during hot weather to avoid plant stress.

Space plants 12" to 18" apart. Keep in mind that my spacing recommendations are approximate. If you want them to fill in quickly, plant closer together. If you have plenty of time and patience but less money, plant them farther apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill. Press soil around the roots. Do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" to 4" deep. Irrigate thoroughly.

Maintenance is minimal. Creeping Phlox have few pest and disease problems, but they aren't immune. Spider mites can cause problems during dry weather, but the little critters hate water. So overhead irrigation discourages them. Nematodes can attack stems, but affected areas are noticeable by yellowing. Removal and destruction of the infected portion is effective. Mildew can infect in areas with poor air circulation during cooler, wetter weather. Sulfur spray is a good treatment. Keep in mind that remedial sprays do not restore damaged tissue; they only stop the progress of the problem. The best preventative is to maintain vigorous plants in a healthy environment.

For a thrilling floral spectacle in spring on a low-maintenance ground cover, I highly recommend Creeping Phlox.

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Mondo Possibilities For Your Landscape

With a growing consideration of ecological and economical responsibility, many are considering ways they can change their landscapes and how they maintain them in order to reduce waste and save money. Since turf grass is a major part of most landscapes, the lawn is a matter of interest.

Some have come to the conclusion that they spend way too much on their lawns, and might do better by replacing selected areas of turf with something less expensive in the long run. Ground cover plants offer reasonable alternatives, and Ophiopogon is one of the best. It resembles grass but requires much less care, and tolerates moderate foot traffic.

Ophiopogon (pronounced o-fee-O-po-gahn), is commonly known as mondo grass or lily-turf (a name it shares with Liriope). The botanical name comes from the Greek meaning "snake beard." I have no explanation why it was so named. Perhaps a plant explorer saw a snake laying in it and mistook the foliage for it's beard. Ophiopogon, like many of our favorite ornamental plants, is native to Asia where it is also used for medicinal purposes.

The genus contains 65 species of which 2 are commonly available: O. japonicus and O. planiscapus. The evergreen, grass-like plant was included in the Lily family, but is now included in the Ruscaceae family. It doesn't matter much to the layman. Mature height is usually from 1-1/2" to 5". Inconspicuous whitish flowers are followed by small berries.

Ophiopogon prefers slightly moist soil in partial shade, but will also thrive in full shade, and in full sun tolerating drought and heat very well. The plants reproduce vegetatively by short underground rhizomes, young plants appearing at the ends. When rooted, the rhizomes can be severed (divided) and the young ones replanted elsewhere.

O. japonicus is native to Japan. Foliage is deep green or variegated. It is reliably cold hardy in USDA climate zones 6 through 10. Recommended soil pH is 5.6 to 6.5. Foliage is 4" long. A dwarf form, O. japonicus 'Nana' produces short leaves about 1-1/2" to 2" long. O. japonicus grows on fibrous roots and short rhizomes, so mature plants may be in clumps. However, it can be used very effectively as a ground cover for small to medium-sized areas if the divisions, also called "bibs", are sprigged.

O. planiscapus is favored for its black-leaved cultivars, sometimes called Black Mondo. Well, they aren't actually black, but nearly so. They are recommended for partial to full shade, but I've found that the color is darker if they receive more sun. Because they spread very slowly, O. planiscapus is not recommended for ground cover except in the smallest of areas. The black foliage is exceptionally attractive when contrasted with light-colored stones and plants with red, white or variegated foliage. Like O. japonicus, O. planiscapus is cold hardy in USDA climate zones 6 through 10. Recommended soil pH is 5.6 to 6.5.

Prepare the planting bed for Ophiopogon by cultivating at least 4" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 8" deep. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil. Fertilizer may be used. If you choose to do so, incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Ophiopogon can be planted any time you have a shovel handy, even bare root plants. It is very tough and resilient. Nevertheless, I recommend watering more frequently during hot weather to avoid plant stress.

Plant bare root O. japonicus bibs by punching holes in the soil with a trowel or dibble at 4" to 8" apart (3" to 6" for dwarf cultivars), and insert the plants, pressing soil around the roots as you go. Plants in small containers may be spaced 6" to 12" apart. Space O. planiscapus at 6" to 12". Keep in mind that my spacing recommendations are approximate. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill. Press soil around the roots. Do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" deep. Irrigate thoroughly.

For sake of economy, container-grown plants may be removed from their pots and divided before planting a tad closer than you might otherwise space them. This will help you to cover more ground at a lower cost.

Maintenance is minimal. Ophiopogon has few pest and disease problems, and tolerates poor soil. Cold weather may damage foliage, but annual spring mowing at a high mower setting will easily renovate. But, otherwise, Ophiopogon seldom needs mowing. As mentioned before, it tolerates moderate foot traffic. Ophiopogon is deer resistant, but deer will eat almost anything if hungry enough.

If you need a low-maintenance, lush, evergreen grass substitute for full sun to shade that tolerates a wide range of soil conditions, I highly recommend Ophiopogon. Though it costs more to purchase the plants in the beginning, the cost of maintenance is far less.

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Liriope in legend and landscape

Some plants are so familiar that you might think they are "from around here." Such is the case with Liriope (pronounced la-RYE-o-pee), commonly known as lily-turf or monkey grass. Many Americans like a sense of order, and Liriope provides it as it borders walks and driveways from street to door. But Liriope, like many of our favored ornamental plants, is native to east Asia.

The genus was named for Liriope, the "wave-blue water-nymph" and mother of Narcissus. Narcissus, you will recall, was the mythological character who adored himself way too much. 

 

"Wave-blue water-nymph Liriope, whom once Cephisos in his sinuous flow embracing held and ravished. In due time the lovely Nymphe bore a fine infant boy, from birth adorable, and named her son Narcissus; and of him she asked the seer [Teiresias of Thebes], would he long years and ripe old age enjoy, who answered ‘If he shall himself not know.’ For long his words seemed vain; what they concealed the lad's strange death and stranger love revealed. [Narcissus fell in love with his own reflection and wasted away.]" Ovid, Metamorphoses 3. 342 ff (trans. Melville) (Roman epic C1st B.C. to C1st A.D.)

 

The evergreen, grass-like plant is in the Lily family. Mature height is usually from 8" to 18". Flowers usually in shades of blue may be clustered around upright spikes, depending upon the species. Flowers are followed by small black berries with an opalescent sheen. Perhaps a scene of Liriope en masse as pictured above inspired the name.

Liriope prefers moist soil in partial shade, but will also thrive in full sun tolerating drought and heat very well. The plants reproduce vegetatively by underground rhizomes of various lengths, young plants appearing at the ends. When rooted, the rhizomes can be severed (divided) and the young ones replanted elsewhere.

Liriope, depending upon the species, is used for ground cover and perennial borders. Taller cultivars such as L. muscari 'Evergreen Giant' and 'Densiflora' may be used for height and texture in container gardens.

Two species of Liriope are commonly available: Liriope muscari and Liriope spicata.

L. muscari is named thus because the blue flower spikes resemble those of Grape Hyacinths (Muscari armeniacum). In addition to "lily-turf" and "monkey grass", it is commonly called "border grass." Leaves grow up to 1/2" wide and up to 18" long. Foliage may be variegated. Flower colors range from blue to pink to white. It is reliably cold hardy in USDA climate zones 6 through 10. Recommended soil pH is 6.0 to 7.5. L. muscari grows on fibrous roots and tends to produce shorter rhizomes, so mature plants may be in clumps about 12" across. For this reason, it serves well as a border plant, as a common name suggests. However, it can be used very effectively as a ground cover for large areas if the divisions, also called "bibs", are sprigged.

L. spicata produces narrower, grassy leaves about 1/4" wide and up to 8" long. Evergreen foliage may be variegated. Unlike L. muscari, flowers are borne on much shorter spikes and may not even be visible above the foliage. Rhizomes of L. spicata tend to be longer, so the plant makes a very good ground cover, but does not serve so well as a border. Thus it is commonly known as "creeping lilyturf." It is fine for erosion control in medium-sized areas provided that water does not flow with such force that the plants are dislodged before established. L. spicata is cold hardy in USDA climate zones 4 through 4 through 10. Recommended soil pH is 4.5 to 6.0.

Prepare the planting bed for Liriope by cultivating at least 4" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 8" deep. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil. Fertilizer may be used. If you choose to do so, incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Liriope can be planted any time you have a shovel handy, even bare root plants. It is tough, tough, tough. If you left them laying out on hot concrete all day long, I believe they would still survive.

Plant bare root divisions by punching holes in the soil with a trowel or dibble at 6" to 12" apart, and insert the plants, pressing soil around the roots as you go. Plants in small containers may be spaced 10" to 18" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill. Press soil around the roots. Do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" deep. Irrigate thoroughly.

Maintenance is minimal. Liriope has few pest and disease problems, and tolerates poor soil. Cold weather may damage foliage, but annual spring mowing at a high mower setting will easily renovate. Liriope is deer resistant, but deer will eat almost anything if hungry enough.

Because it is so widely used, some folks think that Liriope is boring and over-used. But I don't agree. If someone asks me to recommend a low-maintenance, lush, evergreen ground cover or border for full sun to partial shade that tolerates a wide range of soil conditions, I ask, "Have you tried Liriope?"

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Jeepers, Creepers! Virginia Creeper and Boston Ivy

Parthenocissus is a genus of woody, creeping plants that, depending upon the species, are native to parts of Asia and of North America. The name comes from the Greek meaning "virgin ivy." Parthenocissus belongs to the grape family.

The plants may grow as ground covers, but will climb if they meet an obstacle. As they ascend, they attach themselves to the surface by small adhesive disks. Mature height may be 40' or more.

The two most common species in cultivation include Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) and Boston Ivy (Parthenoscissus tricuspidata).

Virginia Creeper, also known as Woodbine, is native to many parts of the U.S. and Canada. Each leaf is composed of five dark green leaflets. It is a vigorous climber and will cover whatever it grows upon. If allowed to grow over shrubs, its dense foliage can rob the lower plants of sunlight and weaken them. Fall brings bright colors of yellow, orange, red or burgundy. The depth of fall color seems to depend upon available sunlight. Virginia Creeper is widely used as an ornamental ground cover, but its fall color and ability to cover walls, trellises and pergolas makes it popular as well.

Virginia Creeper is cold hardy in USDA climate zones 3 through 9. It prefers average, well-drained soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8, but is tolerant of poor soils. It will grow in partial shade to full sun, is heat and drought-tolerant. Pests are limited to a few that nibble the leaves. It is disease-resistant. Birds love the fruit, but the berries are toxic to mammals. The plants can cause allergic reactions in sensitive persons.

Boston Ivy, also known as Japanese Ivy or Woodbine, is native to east Japan, Korea and eastern China. Each leaf is composed of three lobes. It is also a vigorous climber. Like Virginia Creeper, fall brings bright colors of yellow, orange, red or burgundy. It is also widely used as an ornamental ground cover, but is used to cover walls, trellises and pergolas. Because it has been very popular in Boston, it bears the name of that city.

Boston Ivy is cold-hardy in USDA climate zones 4 through 8. The foliage colors best in full sun, but it will tolerate partial shade. Plant in well-drained soil with average to poor fertility.

Prepare the planting bed for Parthenocissus by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep. Add enough soil to raise the bed at least 4" above the surrounding ground level. This will help to promote good drainage. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil. Fertilizer may be used. If you choose to do so, incorporate 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant Parthenocissus 12" to 36" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. If you are planting bare root vines, the roots should be spread out in the hole. Do not plant them any deeper than they grew previously. You should be able to see a difference in the plant tissue at the previous soil line. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the roots. If you are planting container grown stock, do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" deep.

If the plant is stressed during planting, it will usually drop its leaves as a protective measure. While it is unsightly and may be worrisome, maintaining proper soil moisture will encourage new leaves to sprout.

You might wonder whether it can be easily removed from walls, pergolas and such. It depends upon how you go about it. If you just start pulling them off a painted surface, the adhesive pads will probably pull off paint, especially if the paint is flaking. Because they do not attach themselves by means of penetrating roots, they will not damage brick or stone by pulling. The best way I've found to remove them is to sever their vines near the base, or spray foliage within reach with glyphosate herbicide. When the plants die and dry, the vines can be removed more easily.

Both popular species of Parthenocissus cover ground and buildings, and do it well. The fall colors are fantastic, and the plants are basically trouble-free.

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Carolina Jessamine - The Yellow Garlands Of Spring

Our native Carolina Jessamine, Gelsemium sempervirens, is a spectacular ornamental vine that is well-known throughout the South. Its range is from Virginia to Texas and southward through Mexico. Another species, Gelsemium rankinii, also known as Swamp Jessamine, is native to the Southeast. A relative, Gelsemium elegans, also a climbing vine, is native to India, parts of China and Southeast Asia. Gelsemium sempervirens translated from Latin means "evergreen jasmine". The common name, Jessamine, is a variant spelling of Jasmine. "Jasmine" is of Persian origin, meaning "God's gift." It must be noted, however, that Gelsemium species are not among what some consider to be "true jasmine" of the genus Jasminum.

Carolina Jessamine foliage (about 1" to 4" long) is elongated. Whether it is evergreen depends upon the climate. It is semi-evergreen in northern parts of its range. Beautiful fragrant yellow flowers, 1-1/2" long and tubular, appear in early spring and sometimes in fall creating elegant garlands of yellow on arbors and pergolas. Motorists are sure to notice it as they travel along our highways as Jessamine festoons trees and shrubs. Mature height as a ground cover is only 24", but when allowed to climb, it will just keep on going.

Carolina Jessamine is cold-hardy in USDA climate zones 7 through 9. It flowers best in full sun, but will grow in full sun or shade in well-drained soil with average to poor fertility. Recommended soil pH covers a wide range: from 5.5 to 8.5. If planted in shade, it will find something to climb until it enjoys sunlight. Plants are drought tolerant when established, and heat-loving.

Because the flowers are beautiful and abundant, Gelsemium is usually planted with that purpose in mind. Unlike some other ornamental vines, it does not attach itself permanently to its support. Gelsemium ascends by twining around the support. For that reason, if grown on a wall, it will need a trellis to climb upon. If necessary, it can be pruned back drastically in order to maintain supporting walls, trellises, pergolas, arbors, mail boxes and light posts.

Gelsemium can be effective as a ground cover for erosion control in small to large areas. If allowed to grow as a ground cover, it will certainly do so, but will climb the first chance it gets.

It must be noted that in spite of its loveliness, Carolina Jessamine is highly toxic if eaten. So don't. The good news is that it is deer-resistant.

Prepare the planting bed for Gelsemium sempervirens by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep. Add enough soil to raise the bed at least 4" above the surrounding ground level. This will help to promote good drainage. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil. Fertilizer may be used. If you choose to do so, incorporate 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant at 24" to 48" spacing. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the roots. Do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" deep.

To encourage plant density and more profuse bloom, prune Gelsemium occasionally, especially if grown as a ground cover. Edging around the perimeter of the ground cover bed and shearing the top is very effective. Though Carolina Jessamine vines are capable of growing 20' high, they can be grown in containers on trellises of 3' to 4' and maintained by pruning.

Carolina Jessamine is one of my favorite flowering vines. It can be grown high or low, over your mailbox or under it. The deep yellow garlands in the trees drop lovely blossoms on the forest floor below, golden mantles drape garden walls, and the fragrance is wonderful.

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Trumpet Creeper -The Hummingbird Clarion

Trumpet Creeper (Campsis radicans), also known as Trumpet Vine and Cow-Itch Vine, is a climbing deciduous vine native to the southern United States. Its only relative, Campsis grandiflora, is native to China. The latin name, Campsis radicans, refers to its somewhat pendulous flowers, like tubular bells, and the fact that it climbs "by the roots". A vigorous climber, Trumpet Creeper develops prominent aerial roots as it matures. Older vines can be as thick as your arm. The common name, Cow-Itch Vine, refers to the fact that it can cause skin irritation to sensitive persons, but so can tulip bulbs. I've never experienced any irritation myself.

If you have ever traveled through the South, you may have noticed it growing up and over fences and signposts along the highway. Large, bright yellow, orange to red trumpet-shaped flowers appear from mid-summer to fall. Trumpet Creeper is popular world-wide in those areas where it can be grown for its flowers.

Foliage of Trumpet Creeper is pinnately compound, meaning that each leaf, up to 12" long, has leaflets that grow off to the side of the "stem". Vines will climb anything up to 40' high, attaching themselves so tightly that if removed they take some of the structure with them. That shouldn't be a problem as long as the plant is intended to cover permanently. Surfaces that may require maintenance, such as wood requiring paint, should be kept free of Trumpet Creeper.

Campsis radicans is cold-hardy in USDA climate zones 4 through 10. It flowers best in full sun, but will grow in full sun or shade in well-drained soil with average to poor fertility. If planted in shade, it will find something to climb and keep going until it enjoys sunlight. Plants are drought tolerant when established and heat-loving.

Because the flowers are exceptionally attractive to hummingbirds, it is usually planted with that purpose in mind. It is best planted next to a permanent structure. A solid wood post, masonry wall, dead tree trunk or living tree will do just fine. I've seen it planted beside a vertical post so that it engulfs it, forms its own support and looks like a tree itself.

Trumpet Creeper can be effective as a ground cover for erosion control in large areas, but it needs room to grow. If allowed to grow as a ground cover, it will certainly do so, but will climb the first chance it gets.

Prepare the planting bed for Trumpet Creeper by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep. Add enough soil to raise the bed at least 4" above the surrounding ground level. This will help to promote good drainage. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil. Fertilizer may be used. If you choose to do so, incorporate 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Highly fertile soil will cause Trumpet Creeper to grow like a rocket. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant Trumpet Creeper 18" to 36" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. If you are planting bare root vines, the roots should be spread out in the hole. Do not plant them any deeper than they grew previously. You should be able to see a difference in the plant tissue at the previous soil line. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the roots. If you are planting container grown stock, do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" deep.

If the plant is stressed during planting, it will usually drop its leaves as a protective measure. While it is unsightly and may be worrisome to the novice, maintaining proper soil moisture will encourage new leaves to sprout, and away you go.

If planted in an appropriate area, Campsis radicans is a fine plant that is very effective as an ornamental vine and hummingbird lure.

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Luxuriant, Evergreen Creeping Fig

Creeping Fig (Ficus pumila) is a climbing evergreen vine native to South China, Vietnam, Japan and to Malaysia. Its relatives include popular house plants such as Weeping Fig (Ficus benjamina) and the Rubber Tree (Ficus elastica), and the familiar, edible fig (Ficus carica). The latin name, Ficus pumila, simply means "small fig". Though it produces a small, insignificant fruit, the plant is usually grown only for ornamental purposes.

Perhaps you have seen Creeping Fig covering garden walls in lovely cities of the Deep South. Clinging closely, it lends dark green softness to all kinds of structures. In colder climates it is used to carpet ground and cover walls in conservatories and greenhouses, or to cover topiary forms. The matting is usually about 2" deep, but can become deeper as the plant matures. Vines with no where to go may continue to grow, but hang away from the supporting structure.

Foliage of Creeping Fig is oval-shaped and ranges from 2" to 4" in length. Vines will climb anything up to 40' high, attaching themselves so tightly that if removed they take some of the structure with them. That shouldn't be a problem as long as the plant is intended to cover permanently. Surfaces that may require maintenance, such as wood requiring paint, should be kept free of Creeping Fig.

Creeping Fig is cold-hardy only in USDA climate zones 8 through 11. Temperatures in the lower teens will kill or severely damage it. Partial shade is recommended. Soil should be well-drained, slightly moist with pH ranging from 6.0 to 7.8. Mature plants are somewhat drought tolerant. It is deer-resistant.

Prepare the planting bed for Creeping Fig by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep. Add enough soil to raise the bed at least 2" above the surrounding ground level. This will help to promote good drainage, but prevent unnecessary run-off. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil. Fertilizer may be used. If you choose to do so, incorporate 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant Creeping Fig 12" to 18" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

In addition to the species, Ficus pumila Variegata is also available. The white leaf margins are especially attractive.

Obviously, the primary purpose of Creeping Fig is to carpet ground and cover walls with a dense, green mat. But as mentioned before, it is wonderful for topiaries. Not only that, it is very attractive in hanging baskets as it drapes downward or climbs the basket supports.

The only negatives are that it can cover ground, as a good ground cover should, therefore it should be trimmed occasionally to keep it confined. The other negative is that, as noted before, it sticks tight to supporting structures and can be difficult to remove. So think ahead and don't put it where you won't want it later.

Ficus pumila is a fine plant that does it's job gracefully, producing a luxuriant, evergreen covering where it is needed.

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You've Got To Love Gaillardia

Gaillardia, commonly called Blanket Flower or Indian Blanket, is a genus of 12 species along with various hybrids and varieties that is native to the U.S. The genus is named for an 18th century Frenchman, Gaillard de Charentonneau, a plant enthusiast who supported botanical studies. The common name was given due to the bright colors and bold patterns reminiscent of North American Indian fabrics. Gaillardia is a perennial in warmer areas of its range and re-seeds itself as an annual in colder regions.

Blanket Flower caught my eye when I was very young as it grew behind sand dunes on Tybee Island, GA, alongside coastal highways, abandoned railroad tracks and eroded shell middens. It thrives in full sun in USDA climate zones 3 through 10 in well-drained soils that range from mildly acid to mildy alkaline. The flowers attract butterflies, but the plants are unattractive to deer. Gaillardia is more or less disease free. It is heat-, drought- and salt-tolerant, therefore it is well-suited to exposed perennial gardens, rock gardens, wild-flower gardens, butterfly gardens and xeriscaping. Seaside gardeners love them, but they will flourish far from the coast. Gaillardia is favored by native plant enthusiasts. Because it may have some medicinal properties, herb gardeners sometimes include Blanket Flower in their collections.

Prepare the planting bed for Gaillardia by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep. Add enough soil to raise the bed at least 4" above the surrounding ground level. Sand is a fine amendment. This will help to promote good drainage. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil, but it may not be necessary. Gaillardia does well in poor soil. For that reason, fertilizer should be used sparingly. If used at all, incorporate 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant Gaillardia 12" to 18" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Because it likes well-drained soil, plant Blanket Flower with other plants having similar cultural requirements. As the plants mature, fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between waterings.

Depending upon where you grow it, Gaillardia blooms early-summer to early fall. Bloom time is about 8 weeks. While dead-heading (pinching off spent flowers) is not entirely necessary, it may help to prolong the bloom season.

The following are well worth growing:

• Gaillardia x 'Arizona Sun': This was a 2005 All-America Selections Winner. It grows 12" to 14" in height as a low-growing mound. Red/orange flowers tipped with yellow are 3" across and produced from mid-summer to fall.
• Gaillardia x grandiflora 'FanFare': This new cultivar invites praise. The red 3" wide flowers with yellow tips are tubular and trumpet-shaped.
• Gaillardia x grandiflora 'Goblin' is an old favorite variety of a popular native plant, it grows up to 12" in height as a low-growing mound. You can't go wrong with this one.
• Gaillardia x grandiflora 'Oranges and Lemons': Produces lots of yellow and orange flowers over a very long season.

Maybe it's because I grew up with it, or because I have grown to appreciate its adaptability, but I can't praise Gaillardia enough. It is native, sun-loving, heat-tolerant, drought-tolerant, attractive to butterflies, unattractive to deer, long-season blooming, re-seeding, practically disease-free and thrives across a very wide range of climate zones. What more can I say? You've got to love it.

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Taking Care Of Beesness

With renewed interest in things natural, more folks are thinking of planting gardens to attract wildlife. Birds and butterflies are particularly desired, but many other critters are overlooked; bees, for example. Perhaps they are neglected because they are so small and barely noticeable, or perhaps it is because some can sting and be very noticeable if disturbed. But bees can use a little help, and by helping them they will help you.

Bees are important for pollination. When they forage for nectar they brush against flower pollen and carry some of it with them. As they visit other plants, they deposit some of the pollen. Receptive plants are thus pollinated and fruit is formed. Without bees, our dinner tables would be nearly bare.

Life is tough for bees. Food and water can be scarce. They are food for various other hungry creatures including winged hunters and parasites. Beetles and moths destroy their homes. Toxic pesticides poison flowers with disastrous results. For honeybees, just one sting meant to protect themselves and their brood means certain death. Some think that cell phone signals confuse them so they can't find their ways home. They need safe havens. You can do so by providing them with pesticide-free gardens planted with nectar-producing plants. Bees need water, too.

Bird-watching is a popular past-time, but bee-watching can also be fun. A bee-keeping friend of mine tells me he can sit and watch his hives for hours of learning and enjoyment. I know its true because I used to keep bees myself.

I love to watch them searching among flowers. Our bird-bath also serves bees who line the edge of the water on hot summer days for refreshment. It has gently sloping sides so the bees can gather next to shallow water without falling in over their heads.

You may wonder whether attracting bees invites danger since they can sting. You must realize that not all bees pack a punch. Even those that do are usually too intent on sipping nectar or otherwise going about their bees-ness to bother us. Seldom do they notice our presence beyond passing glances. Even if threatened they usually issue a warning "fly-over buzz". So you can plant a bee garden and enjoy their presence as you would other wildlife; invite them, feed them, water them, but don't try to handle them.

Here, then, for your consideration is a partial list of perennials and groundcovers that attract bees. The descriptions are brief, but I hope it will be helpful.

Abelia x 'Rose Creek'. This is a lovely mounding shrub that makes a terrific groundcover when planted in groups. Evergreen foliage on red stems. Produces loads of attractive white flowers throughout the growing season. Grows 24" to 36" in height. Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.

Achillea spp. Also known as Yarrow. Fragrant gray-green lacy foliage. White, rose, yellow, gold flower clusters from mid to late summer. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 3-10. Grows to 36" in height according to species.

Actaea racemosa. Also known as Bugbane. Fern-like foliage. Frothy white flower plumes on 5' stalks in summer. Partial to full shade in USDA climate zones 3-9.

Ajuga reptans. Also known as Carpet Bugleweed. Bronze to variegated foliage. Blue flowers on short spikes in spring. Full sun to full shade. USDA climate zones 3-9. Well-drained soil. Grows to under 6".

Allium spp. and ornamental hybrids. Also known as Ornamental Onion. Lovely globe-shaped flower clusters in spring to summer. Full sun to partial shade. Color and size varys by variety. USDA climate zones 4-9. Well drained soil. Plant bulbs in fall.

Armeria maritima. Also known as Thrift or Sea Pink. Evergreen spreading clumps of grassy foliage. Dark pink, ball-shaped clusters. Blooms spring to fall. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 3-8. Grows to 12" in height.

Asclepias tuberosa. Also known as Butterfly Weed. Clusters of bright orange flowers attract butterflies in summer. Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-10. Grows to 24" in height.

Aster spp. Small, colorful, daisy-like flowers late summer to fall. Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9 and height varies according to species.

Astilbe spp and hybrids. Also known as False Spirea. Frothy flower plumes in colors ranging from white, pinks, reds, lavenders. Partial to full shade in USDA climate zones 3-8. Height varies according to species.

Carex spp. Also known as Japanese Sedge. Evergreen, grass-like foliage green or variegated. Mounding to spreading habit. Moist soil. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 5-9. Grows to 12" in height.

Cotoneaster spp. Pronounced "co TOE nee aster." Spreading groundcover shrubs. Evergreen to semi-evergreen foliage. Small flowers like apple blossoms in spring followed by pink or red fruit. Full sun to light shade in USDA climate zones from 4-10 and height to 18" depending upon species.

Coreopsis spp. and hybrids. Also known as Tickseed. Deciduous oval to thread-like foliage with daisy-like flowers in yellow or pink in summer. Full sun to light shade in USDA climate zones and height to 8" to 18" depending upon species.

Crinum spp. Large plants with strap-like foliage in the Amaryllis family. Large clusters of white to pink flowers in summer. Full sun in USDA climate zones 8-11. Grows to 48" in height. Bulbs planted in spring.

Calamintha grandiflora. Also known as Calamint. Lavender blue flowers on mint-like leaves from spring to fall. Aromatic foliage. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 5-9. Grows to 24" in height.

Crocosmia. Also known as Montbretia. Red, orange to yellow iris-like flowers on long stems in summer. Sword-like foliage. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 6-9. Grows to 48". Plant spring bulbs.

Echinacea purpurea and hybrids. Also known as Coneflower. Pink/purple, white, orange or yellow flowers spring to late summer. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 3-8. Grows 18" to 48" in height according to species.

Geranium spp. and hybrids. Also known as Cranesbill or Hardy Geranium. Mound-like clumps of evergreen foliage. Flowers in red, white, pink, blue shades spring to summer. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9. Grows to 24" in height.

Heuchera spp. Also known as Coral Bells or Alumroot. Low-growing clumps of variegated foliage in green to bronze colors with spikes of frothy white, pink or red blooms in spring and summer. Many new varieties introduced. Full sun to shade in USDA climate zones 3-8. Grows to 18" in height.

Hypericum calycinum. Also known as St. John's Wort or Aaron's Beard. Evergreen to semi-evergreen foliage with buttery yellow foliage in spring with some re-bloom into summer. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 5-9. Grows 12" to 18" in height.

Lamiastrum galeobdolon. Also known as Yellow Archangel. Evergreen silver-variegated foliage with yellow flowers in spring. Spreading groundcover. Full sun to shade in USDA climate zones 3-9. Grows to 15" in height.

Lantana spp. and hybrids. Deciduous to evergreen, depending upon climate zone. Upright to spreading shrubby perennial. Fragrant foliage and clusters of often multi-colored flowers spring until frost. Flower color ranges from white, yellow, orange, pink, lilac, purple, red. Full sun in USDA climate zones 7 - 11 and grows 12" to 60" in height according to species.

Lavandula angustifolia. Also known as Lavender. Compact shrub-like perennial with fragrant evergreen grayish foliage. Fragrant lavender to purple flowers summer to fall. Full sun in USDA climate zones 5-9. Prefers alkaline soil with low fertility. Grows 18" to 20" in height.

Leucanthemum x. superbum 'Becky'. Also known as Shasta Daisy. 2003 Perennial Plant of the Year. White daisys with yellow centers from summer to fall. Full sun to light shade in USDA climate zones 4-9. Grows to 36" in height.

Monarda didyma. Also known as Bee Balm. Tall, fragrant perennial of the mint family. Crown-like cluster of white, pink, red, purple flowers in spring and summer. Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9. Grows to 48" in height. Prefers moist soil.

Nepeta spp. and hybrids. Also known as Catmint. Many species are perennials. Nepeta 'Walker's Low' is favored, 2007 Perennial Of The Year. Heart-shaped, gray-green foliage with purple flowers from late spring to frost. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-7. 'Walker's Low' grows 30" to 36" in height.

Perovskia atriplicifolia. Also known as Russian Sage. 1995 Perennial Plant Of The Year. Deciduous to sem-evergreen shrubby perennial. Fragrant gray-green foliage. Ethereal light blue flowers from mid-summer to fall. Full sun in USDA climate zones 5-9. Grows 24" ('Little Spire') to 36" in height.

Phlox nivalis 'Eco Flirtie Eyes'. Also known as Trailing Phlox or Florida Phlox. Trailing habit. Evergreen, needle-shaped foliage. Pink to lavender flowers in early spring. Long bloom period. Full sun in USDA climate zones 5-9. Grows to 10" in height and spreads 24" to 36".

Phlox subulata. Also known as Thrift or Creeping Phlox. Pink, red, white, lavender flowers in early spring. Tolerates a wide range of soil conditions. Full sun in USDA climate zones 3-9. Grows 4" to 6" in height. Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Rosmarinus officinalis. Also known as Rosemary. Evergreen, fragrant, needle-like foliage. White, pink or light blue flowers repeatedly. Full sun in USDA climate zones 7-10. Grows to 48" in height.

Rudbeckia fulgida var. 'Goldsturm'. 1999 Perennial Plant Of The Year. Also known as Black Eyed Susan or Gloriosa Daisy. Yellow daisy-like blooms with deep brown centers from mid-summer to fall. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 5-9. Prefers moist soil, but tolerates drought. Grows 24" to 36" in height.

Salvia spp. One of my favorites is S. nemorosa. Also known as Perennial Sage. Varieties include 'Blue Hill' or 'Blauhugel', 'Caradonna' (2000 International hardy Plant Union Award), 'East Friesland' or 'Ostfriesland', 'Marcus' (PP# 13322), 'May Night' or 'Mainact' (1997 Perennial Plant Of The Year), 'Pink Friesland' (PPAF), and 'Snow Hill'. Deep green to gray-green foliage with long-lasting flowers in shades from white, pink and purple. Long-lasting blooms from late spring. Re-bloom after cutting. Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-8. Grows to 18" in height.

Scabiosa columbaria 'Butterfly Blue'. 2000 Perennial Plant Of The Year. Also known as Pincushion Flower. Light blue flowers from summer to fall. Cutting increases blooming. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 3-9. Grows 12" to 18" in height.

Sedum spp. Also known as Moss or Stonecrop. Succulent foliage of various shapes and colors. Flowers in shades from yellow, pink to red. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9 and grows from 4" to 30" according to species.

Thymus spp. Also known as Thyme. Aromatic, evergreen foliage, green to variegated. Lilac, white, pink, red flowers in summer. Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9. Grows to 4" according to species. Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Verbena spp and hybrids. Aromatic green foliage with large clusters of red, pink, purple flowers spring through fall. Spreading habit. Full sun in USDA climate zones 6-10. Grows to 12" in height according to species.

Veronica. I really like Veronica penduncularis 'Georgia Blue.' Evergreen foliage turns bronze in fall. Blue flowers in spring. Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9. Grows 3" to 6". Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Because space is limited, I can only name a few other perennials and ground covers that attract bees: Acanthus, Agastache, Alstroemeria, Anthemis, Campanula, Digitalis, Echinops, Erigeron, Erysimum, Gypsophila, Helenium, Helianthus, Helichrysum, Hesperis, Inula, Knautia, Kniphofia, Lamium, Lathyrus, Liatris, Ligularia, Lobelia, Lupinus, Lychnis, Lythrum, Malva, Mentha, Oenothera, Origanum, Paeonia, Penstemon, Potentilla, Pulmonaria, Saponaria, Sidalcea, Solidago, Stachys, Stokesia, Tanacetum, Thalictrum, Tiarella, Trifolium and Verbascum.

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Hardy Geranium - The Lovely Weed

We gardeners often complain that the plants we want to grow require too much cultivation and tender loving care, while weeds thrive despite all the invective and abuse we heap on them. If only weeds were more appealing.

Good news! There is such a weed. In fact, various of its charming species are native to every state in North America. Others were introduced and found our soils to their liking. What is this amazing creature? Hardy or "Cranesbill" geranium.

Before going further, it must be noted that hardy geraniums are not the same plants sold as annuals in many retail markets. The annuals are of another genus, Pelargonium.

Though most of the hardy geraniums on the market are improvements over the species having been selected or hybridized for superior characteristics, they are not far removed from their native roots. They still retain the vigor and persistence of their parents, so they require very little care once established.

Hardy geraniums possess only positive characteristics, blooming for most of the growing season, tolerating a wide range of temperatures, thriving in most types of soil and pH, and growing in full sun to full shade. They perform best in USDA climate zones 4 - 8, enjoying a bit of protecting shade in the South. Geraniums are perfect for the butterfly garden. Deer don't like 'em.

These are some of the most popular varieties:

• G. x 'Ann Folkard' - Grows to 8" tall, trailing habit, and begins to bloom in early Spring. Hardy from zones 5-9.
• G. pratense 'Double Jewel' - Grows to 10" tall and produces double, white petals with lilac center.
• G. x 'Johnson's Blue' - Grows to 20" tall and begins to bear 1.5" bright violet-blue flowers in late Spring to early Summer.
• G. x 'Orion' - Grows to 18" and begins to bear deep blue flowers with contrasting violet-red veining in mid-Summer. Very tolerant of most environmental conditions.
• G. x 'Rozanne' - 2008 Perennial Plant of the Year. Grows to 24" tall and bears violet blue flowers. Hardy from zones 5-8.
• G. endressii 'Wargrave Pink' - Very popular. Grows to 24" tall and bears salmon-pink flowers.
• G. macrorrhizum 'Bevan's Variety' - Grows to 24" tall and begins to bear deep magenta flowers with dark red sepals from mid to late Spring. Fragrant foliage turns red to bronze in Fall. Grows densely and suppresses weeds.
• G. maculatum - This wild geranium grows to 20" and begins to bear lavender-pink flowers in Spring to early Summer.
• G. oxonianum 'Southcombe Double' - Grows to 10" tall and produces double, pink, frilly blooms.
• G. sanguineum - Known as 'Bloody Geranium'. A popular plant that grows to 15" and begins to bear rose to wine-red flowers in May. Very easy to grow. Foliage turns red in Fall.
• G. sanguineum 'Max Frei' - An improved 'Bloody Geranium' that grows more compactly with purple-red flowers.

For optimum results, provide the following conditions:

• Moist, well-drained soil,
• Full sun to full shade (depending on your region),
• Average fertility,
• pH from 5.8 to 7.0,
• About 2" of mulch.

Hardy geraniums are most commonly available growing in 4" pots to 1 gallon pots, or as bare root plants.

Prepare the planting site by thoroughly cultivating the soil. Add compost if available, otherwise do not add fertilizer to the planting hole. Space from 12" to 18" apart. Remove them from their pots and plant at the same depth they grew before. If planting bare root geraniums, place them in the ground with roots downward and spread out. The bases of the crowns should be at soil level. Firm the dirt around them and water well. Add about 2" of mulch around the plants.

Hardy geraniums prefer moist, well-drained soil, but will tolerate mild drought conditions when established. But if possible, water deeply at least once per week if you haven't had adequate rainfall. The frequency depends on your environment. Occasional deep irrigation is better than frequent shallow watering.

After Spring bloom, trim the plants back from one quarter to half off. This will remove the slender seed pods and encourage more branching and bloom. If you use your imagination, you will see that the seed pods resemble cranes' bills. Thus the name.

Frost will wilt the leaves, but not before turning some of them burgundy or scarlet in color; especially Geranium sanguineum or 'Bloody Geranium'. Trim them off when spent, dispose of the debris in your compost pile, and wistfully anticipate Spring.

Over time, your geraniums will spread by underground rhizomes, becoming large clumps. About every three years, these can be divided and replanted elsewhere. To divide them, cut downward through the clump with a sharp spade and separate the parts. When you have enough, you'll love sharing them with your friends.

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No Cars Inside Building!

This post has absolutely nothing to do with gardening, but it does have to do with keeping some order on the premises.

One convenience store owner here in Georgia (Swamp Fox Country Store near Port Wentworth) felt it necessary to post this warning on the door, just in case there are any questions. My guess is that he had just about enough. But, it begs questions, doesn't it?

His demand seems reasonable. But what is a man supposed to do if he is repairing his '89 Town Car out front and needs to keep the parts dry?

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