Wintercreeper - An Under-Rated Evergreen Ground Cover

Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei) is an under-rated, versatile broadleaf evergreen that grows in Zones 5-9. Depending on the cultivar, this ornamental shrub attains 2’ to 4’ in height and up to 5’ in width.

Euonymus is native to China, in a wetter climate than the United States typically. It naturally prefers moist, well-drained soil conditions in partial shade. But it is a hardy plant, tolerating full sun, poor soils with a wide pH range in environments given to heat, drought, and pollution. In other words, it will probably grow in your yard.

Euonymus fortunei is semi-evergreen to evergreen with unremarkable but pleasantly lustrous, dark green 1” to 3” long leaves. The most common cultivars are more remarkable, variegated with shades of white or gold around each leaf’s margin. Depending on the cultivar, leaves will fade to colors including red, purple, bronze, gray or pink. Because some are semi-evergreen, they keep their leaves in fall but may lose a few during winter. Euonymus can produce light yellow or green blooms in June or July, but you’ll have to look hard for them if they’re there at all.

Euonymus, whose name translates as “good name”, is found in two different forms: groundcover or shrub. Both are widely planted. I’ve seen them used for foundation and specimen plants, low hedges, edging, mass plantings, and even as climbers on trees and trellises. The foliage has a fairly thick density. Both forms have green stems that tan with age, but ground cover varieties’ grow outward, whereas shrub varieties’ grow vertically. Take note that regardless of it being a ground cover or a shrub, if the plant is placed near a vertical structure (brick wall, chain-link fence, tree, etc.) the stems will grip it and, like a short clinging vine, climb it. Either form grows moderately fast when it’s young, but slows with maturity. If you’re in a hurry for it to mature you should prune it frequently. Pruning in the spring encourages it to grow quickly.

Euonymus can be propagated by rooted stem cuttings, but they’re always available in containers. Plant in spring or fall. But if you can’t get around to planting until summer, that’s fine; just be sure you irrigate it frequently. Upon planting, spread mulch around it to control weeds and preserve moisture. To prevent new roots from freezing the first winter, particularly with the ‘Coloratus’ variety, mulch to 4" depth.

Euonymus is a great, easy and carefree plant until it gets old. With age or lack of vigor, it becomes more susceptible to crown gall and euonymus scale. Both afflictions are primarily cosmetic. Scale is the most common of the two. However, these problems don't progress quickly. You’ll have time to catch problems and begin treatment.

Scale is an insect that is easily treated with organic pesticides. Scale easy to spot because the stem and undersides of leaves will look like they're covered in powder or teeny-tiny turtle shells. The powder actually consists of hundreds of tiny white structures that house juice sucking bugs. Scale is a serious problem if found in a Euonymus mass planting because it spreads to other plants. As with all plants, keep your eyes open to potential problems.

Popular Euonymus fortunei varieties include:

• E. f. ‘Acutus’. The best Euonymus for a fast growing groundcover. Its deep green 1”-2” long egg-shaped leaves bronze in the winter. If you want it to stay at its mature 2’ height keep it away from a supporting structure and plant about a foot apart.
• E. f. 'Coloratus'. This woody groundcover, most frequently used for mass planting, grows 1' tall if not near a vertical structure. It will climb if the opportunity presents itself. Solid green foliage turns a very attractive red or heavy bronze in winter. Plant 8” to 12” apart.
• E. f. 'Gracilis'. (See the photo above.) Its half inch deep green ovoid leaves have a creamy edges which develop a burgundy tint in winter. This shrub grows about 1’ in height and 1.5’ feet in width in Zones 5-9 in full sun or shade. Plant at least 18” apart.
• E. f. 'Harlequin'. Perfect for mass planting as a ground cover. Variegated, evergreen foliage spaced compactly displays a burgundy hue in winter. Spreads horizontally, more or less, until it meets an obstacle, then may climb to 36" or more.
• E. f. 'Kewensis'. A very low growing (1" - 3” tall) variety that forms a thick dense mat and spreads slowly but indefinitely. Grows best in Zones 5-8 in sun or shade. Plant up to 3’ apart. Pea-sized leaves with the occasional white flower in June. It is great as a ground cover in small spaces, and is wonderful for bonsai.

Euonymus will be an asset to your garden. Some cultivars display beautiful fall color. It grows in virtually any soil condition as long as the soil is moist and well drained. It has few pests, and they're easily remedied. It has proven to be a beautiful, hardy, “plant it and forget it” shrub or ground cover all over the United States.

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Carex Sedge: A Ground Cover Solution For Moist Soil

Carex is of the Cyperaceae, or sedge, family that contains at least 3000 species and 100 genera of grass-like perennials. As such, there is some confusion and misspelling about the specific names of many plants. Regardless, the one you end up with in your garden will certainly be lovely and virtually care free. Carex is found worldwide, is native to the U.S. and is most common in temperate and cold regions.

Carex is also called Sedge Grass and Japanese Sedge. It is frequently referred to as a tufted grass, a category that includes grasses, sedges, rushes and bamboos. Sedges are distinguished from grasses by their solid, three sided flower stems (grass flowers have round, hollow stems) and they typically form dense, compact clumps. For you botanists turned poets, you can distinguish them using this poem by an unknown author: “Sedges have edges and rushes are round, grasses are hollow and rush all around.” If you don’t want to remember that, just keep in mind that any plant from the genus Carex is a true sedge.

If you see a clump of “grass” growing in shady standing water, chances are it is Carex. Hardy in Zones 5-9, this ornamental grows in wet to very moist soils but prefers evenly moist, well drained, loamy, sandy or clay soils. It may tolerate shallow standing water for awhile. If the soil dries out it will begin to suffer from drought stress. The pH preference is neutral (7.0).

Carex will grow in full sun, but prefers partial to full shade. Consider your location before planting; if you live north of Maryland, full sun might be okay, but you won’t get away with full sun in Alabama. You’ll have to experiment and see how it performs in your garden.

Carex grows 6" high or more depending on the cultivar, and has dense tufts of fine, narrow, arching leaves. The 1" leaves are all shades of green with an abundance of variegations, and considering everything I just said above, have the best color in full sun. Its dense mounds make it difficult for weeds to survive. Carex is great for borders, containers, ground cover, rock gardens and water gardens. In well-drained gardens, Carex hides yellowing foliage of spring-flowering bulbs very well.

Sedges are easy to care for because they have no serious pests or diseases. The most you’ll have to do is divide it every few years because it spreads aggressively by rhizomes (but isn’t invasive). Propagation from division is best done in the spring. You can fertilize Carex as you see fit, but keep granular fertilizers off foliage and away from stems and crowns. I’d use half the recommended dose of fertilizer for new plantings, if at all. It remains lush all year round and there is no need to prune it. You’ll probably have to pull away some dead leaves in the winter, but you won’t have to spend additional time mulching it.

Interest in grasses and sedges has increased lately and I’m listing the three varieties of sedges about which I get the most inquiries.

Carex conica 'Hime Kansugi': One of the shortest Carex, it grows between 6" - 12” tall and 8" -10” wide. This dwarf variegated plant of green and white grows in sun or shade in Zones 5-9. Plant them 8" apart for an immediate full, dense look.

C. hachijoensis 'Evergold': Peaks at 8" - 12" tall, but has a wide spread up to 18”. This evergreen variety is very popular because of its slow growing and mounding habits as it spreads. Very nice green and yellow striped one-half inch wide leaves. Grows in Zones 6-9 and must have well-drained most soil. Great as a ground cover, but needs to be divided every few years to keep it tall and thick.

Carex morrowii 'Ice Dance': Grows 12” tall and 18” wide in sun or shade. It has green one-half inch wide leaves with white edges. Lives in Zones 5-9 and should be planted 18” apart. Lights up a shady spot well. This variety is very aggressive and is probably best suited for a container or ground cover.

Carex sedges are becoming more popular because they’re easy to take care of, gorgeous, and often the most colorful plant in the winter garden. If planted in moist to soggy areas in sun or shade they’ll do well and won’t need additional maintenance.

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Japanese Sweet Flag: Ground Cover For Wet Sites

Acorus gramineus is a wetland perennial that is also known as Japanese sweet flag, Japanese rush, grassy-leaved sweet flag and dwarf sweet flag. The source of calamus oil, this plant was used medicinally and in perfumes and soaps because of its cinnamon fragrance. It produces this smell when the leaves are bruised or crushed under foot.

Japanese sweet flag has semi-evergreen, long (up to 14"), narrow, grassy foliage. Its half inch glossy leaves are flat and look like thick, lush wet grass. Sweet flag is unusual in that it produces yellow horn shaped flowers on hollow stems in midsummer.

Japanese sweet flag is native to wetlands of eastern Asia, and can be grown in similar environments in Zones 6-9 in the United States. At the very least, it requires very moist soil. It thrives in wetlands, like along ponds or pools, and can even grow when submersed in up to 4" of water. If you grow it out of its natural aquatic element, it must be watered frequently. If the soil dries for even a day the leaves will suffer. Given this prerequisite, it also needs full sun to partial shade.

If you want to plant a year old sweet flag from a seed or rhizome, it is best to let it mature in a container for a month. Container grown plants can be set in their permanent positions any time you have a shovel handy, but if you plant in the summer, you must be comitted to watering as needed until cooler, rainy weather arrives. Mature plants should be divided every few years in early autumn or late spring. They’ll do fine through winter months without mulch.

Sweet flag may seem like the ideal plant for your Koi pond, but be aware that it spreads aggressively via rhizomes. Eventually it will establish a beautiful seamless turf that may be better for the front of a bog garden than an ornamental pool. If you don’t want yards of sweet flag, grow it in submerged containers so it can't spread. However, even container bound plants will need to be divided eventually.

Japanese sweet flag doesn’t attract any pests, but desperate deer might eat them. It is not prone to any diseases. It can become home to small wetland wildlife.

There are several varieties of Japanese sweet grass, but the two I’m most asked about are 'Ogon' and 'Variegatus'.

The cultivar 'Ogon' is also called Golden Japanese sweet flag because its green foliage is variegated with cream and bright light green stripes. Look for more golden colors if planted in the sun and greener colors in the shade. With a quarter of an inch wide and 10" long arching leaves, it is smaller than other cultivars. It is evergreen in warmer winter climates and produces unremarkable small yellow flowers and red fleshy berries. 'Ogon' will slowly spread about a foot and you should plant them at least 10" apart. Performs best in Zones 7-10.

'Variegatus' is also called variegated Japanese sweet flag. It is semi-evergreen, with green and white striped quarter inch wide leaf blades that can grow 12" long. Plant 'Variegatus' 12" apart. It produces small green blooms in early summer that later become tiny red berries and grows best in Zones 6-9.

In addition to being ideal in wet or submerged areas, Acorus gramineus delights the nose and the eyes. Its beautiful sweet smelling foliage provides year round color and blossoms and berries in the summer. It is easy on your schedule too, as it requires infrequent maintenance and has no common pests or diseases. This simple and rewarding plant will be perfect in or around your water feature.


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Cotoneaster - A Bright Little Ground Cover Shrub

Cotoneaster is a genus of small shrubs comprised of 300 species, the majority being somewhere in between low-growing and erect bushes. A few are small trees that grow up to 45’ tall, like C. frigidus, but most are prostrate shrubs or tall ground covers that are used as borders, low barriers, foundations, non-traditional ground covers or features, even bonsai. Any species provides beautiful color and charm in your garden.

Pronounced "Co-TOE-nee-aster," the name translates as "quince-like " from the Greek "Kotoneon" (quince) and the Latin "ad istar" (similarity). Both quince and Cotoneaster belong to the Rosaceae family. Native to Asia, the plant naturalized in the U.S. in Zones 4-9. Some varieties can be evergreen, semi-evergreen or deciduous depending on the climate. All varieties are loved for their mounding growth habit, bright flowers and showy berries. Although they don’t look much like the plant for which they’re named, cotoneasters are popular because, unlike their relatives, Pyracanthas, they have no thorns.

Cotoneaster grows slowly and matures between 18" and 36" tall. It sprawls, but it can also climb if it has a supportive structure. If planted in a raised bed, its branches cascade down gracefully. It prefers full sun to partial shade and moist, well-drained soil. However, it is proven to thrive in urban areas with stress from poor soils, various soil pH and condition, pruning mistakes and winter road salt.

The cultivar you buy in a container will have a distinct main stem and branches, but as the branches spread they often root with soil contact. Older stems are brown and new ones that branch off the sides are reddish. Foliage is ovoid, alternate, 0.5" long, and glossy dark green with a pointed tip. In the fall the leaves may turn shades of green, yellow, orange or burgundy. In addition to the colors provided by the leaves, flowers bud in April and bloom in white or pink in May and June. The clusters are beautiful but don’t dominate the plant. The real show begins in August with glossy red berries. The contrast with the dark green leaves demands your attention. These quarter-inch berries, inedible for humans, can last into November if they aren’t eaten sooner by birds.

Cotoneaster may be planted any time you have shovel handy, but if planted in summer you must take care to provide adequate irrigation until the plant is established. If grown in containers or planters, mature plants should be repotted yearly using fast-draining soil. Don’t be timid here - you can remove a third of the roots and it will be fine. It may seem like a waste to throw those roots away, but Cotoneaster resists being bare-rooted. Immediately after planting and fertilizing lay down mulch to prevent weeds from invading up through the arched branches. Irrigate frequently to keep the soil moist.

Because Cotoneaster naturally arches and spreads, you may have to prune it depending on why you bought it and where you planted it. If you want a spreading Cotoneaster, it will sucker naturally and there is no need remove new shoots that will root on the soil. But if you want a plant with a single trunk, new shoots must be removed every few weeks to promote trunk growth. If grown near a wall, Cotoneaster will try to climb, so you may have to prune back. On the other hand, Cotoneaster espaliered against a wall or trellis and trained in elegant forms. If it gets too big, Cotoneaster may be pruned after the berries have dropped.

This popular plant is unfortunately not without unpopular pests, but deer aren’t among them. Cotoneaster be bothered by aphids, scale, spider mites, webworm, leaf blight, crown-gall and bacterial fireblight. These are primarily cosmetic problems and are easy to recognize and remedy.

Aphids are yellowish/pink/green 0.125" long plant lice. They are found on nearly all varieties of plants, vegetables, field crops, and fruit trees. Control and prevention are important for new plants, where sap removal by aphids prohibits development. Early detection is key. A fungus called sooty mold grows on aphid waste that accumulates on leaves, turning them black. The appearance of it on plants may be the first time that an aphid infestation is noticed. To prevent sooty mold, you must control the insects so look for them on the affected plants, but also plants in close proximity. Aphids can be controlled chemically, but this also tends to kill other good bugs in the area. Try spot treatment first.

Scale is an insect infestation that is best treated with systemic pesticides. It’s easy to spot because the plant will look like it’s covered in powder. This powder is actually hundreds of tiny white structures that house juice sucking bugs. Scale can be a serious problem if found in a mass planting because it spreads quickly to other plants. If you don’t see the problem for several months and you notice it when the plant looks like it’s covered in powder and also gray mildew, it’s too late and you’ll have to dig up and throw away all the infected plants.

Spider mite and webworm can cause moderate to severe cosmetic leaf damage. Spider mites cause dappled yellow to brown color on otherwise green leaves, while webworm cosmetic leaf damage is often severe, with a webbed matrix covering the brown and dead leaves on entire stems. Foliage is subject to mite and/or webworm damage because of drought stress. Spider mites require pesticides that are specifically developed for spider mite control (miticides or acaricides). Because most miticides do not affect eggs, a repeat application at an approximately 10- to 14-day interval is usually needed for control.

Leaf blight is first recognized when the leaves turn yellow, but don’t fall off. Soon lesions will appear on the leaves and rapidly engulf surrounding plant tissue. If leaf blight is confirmed on your plant it can be treated chemically with a product from your garden center or a specific remedy can be recommended by your agricultural extension agent.

Crown-gall describes large lesions on the plant at the soil line where the main roots join the stem but sometimes are higher up. Crown gall is best controlled by removing the plant and treating the soil with a suitable fumigant. Chemical treatments are also available.

Bacterial fireblight affects young stems of plants in the Rosaceae family, which includes apples, pears, Cotoneaster. Fireblight is triggered by warm, wet weather during bloom time. The ends of twigs and branches become brown or black and may curl over into a shepherd's crook shape. Dead leaves may remain attached to the tree. Pruning diseased branches early and frequently is the surest way to prevent fireblight from spreading, but remember to disinfect pruning tools frequently. Chemical treatments are also available.

Just let me say that if all these diseases were frequent and hard to solve, Cotoneaster would not be sought out by so many from novice gardeners to enthusiasts. I’ve had Cotoneaster in pots and around the yard for years and they attracted aphids once. This beautiful woody ground cover isn’t going to be perpetually infested with something.

There are hundreds of species out there and I prefer the shorter ones because they’re easier for me to maintain. Here are four of my favorites:

• C. adpressus "Tom Thumb": Also known as "Little Gem", this evergreen rarely blooms or produces berries. I like it because it is an attractive and unique dwarf specimen with dark green miniature, ruffled leaves. A very slow grower that gets only 24" wide and 12" high, it grows best in full sun in Zones 4-9. Prefers moist, well-drained soil.
• C. dammeri 'Coral Beauty': Growing best in Zones 4-8, this variety is easy to grow and drought tolerant. It gets 30" tall and has bright pink flowers. Plant them 18" apart.
• C. dammeri 'Lowfast': A very hardy variety that grows from Zone 4-10, it prefers full sun to get the best evergreen foliage color. It grows 18" tall, produces solitary and profuse white flowers and abundant red fruit. It is low and fast spreading.
• C. salicifolius 'Scarlet Leader': A taller shrub that gets up to 36" tall. Does best in Zones 6-9 and has pleasant red/purple foliage in the fall after its white flowers and red berries have dropped. It has very strong disease and insect resistance.

Think how beautiful your yard would be with a wavy, arching evergreen shrub covered in bright flower and red berries. Think of other plants you know that thrive despite enduring all kinds of abuse and yet look great year round. What else could do that and be used as a dramatic feature, tall ground cover, border or foundation?

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Lawn Mowing Tips

Summer is in full-swing and lawn-mowing is a regular chore for most of us. Here are a few tips to help you.

If your lawnmower is gasoline powered, be sure to check the oil level (if applicable) before cranking it.

If you have pneumatic tires, make sure they are properly inflated. A tire with low pressure will cause the blade to cut lower on that side resulting in an uneven cut.

Keep mower blades sharp. Dull blades shred the grass leaves rather than cut them. The shredded leaf ends will turn brown and discolor the lawn.

Don't mow when the grass is wet. It puts a strain on your lawn mower and results in an uneven cut. In addition, the wet clippings mat together and can not disperse properly. Furthermore, mowing wet grass on a slope presents a safety hazard; you may slip and hurt yourself.

Grass should be cut at varying heights depending upon the time of year. For that reason, your lawn mower cutting height should be easily adjustable. Never adjust the cutting height while the motor is running.

If your lawnmower is gasoline powered, allow the engine to cool before refilling. Never refill the tank while the mower is on the lawn; spillage will kill the grass.

If you use your mower on different lawns, weed seeds may be transported from one to the other. Be sure to spray off the underside of the mower, the deck and tires before going to the next job.

That's not all, but enough for now.

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Yarrow - Her Sunshine Plays Upon Thee

Achillea, commonly called Yarrow, is a perennial herb in the Asteraceae family native to parts of Europe, Asia and North America.

The sunny flowers of yarrow remind me of Wordsworth's lines:

I see—but not by sight alone,

Loved Yarrow, have I won thee;

A ray of fancy still survives—

Her sunshine plays upon thee!

- Yarrow Visited. September, 1814

Though he was not writing of the flower, its bright summer blooms and aromatic foliage certainly play upon the senses.

Yarrow produces flat flower clusters, 2" to 6” across which may include hues of red, pink, gold, yellow and white. Flowering begins in the spring and continues well into summer or even fall. Flower stems range from 12" to 36" in height. The 3” to 8” feathery, fern-like leaves are green or gray and have a fresh, spicy fragrance.

Yarrow, also called ‘Nosebleed Weed’ for its ability to stop a nosebleed, is an immuno-stimulant. It has been used to prevent cold and flu and lower blood pressure, promote digestion and relieve headache, earache and tooth pain. But, as with many medicinal herbs, there are dangers associated with ingesting it.

Yarrow is most widely grown for its ornamental qualities. It lends drama to the perennial border and is excellent for cutting and drying.

If grown in USDA climate zones 3 - 9, Yarrow takes care of itself, requiring virtually no attention. Some cultivars will tolerate heat in Zone 10, but need extra care. Otherwise, it thrives in full sun and in poor, gravely and infertile soil conditions. They can live with a minimum of 8” of rain per year, so they're excellent for xeriscaping. Though drought tolerant, Achillea should be watered during extended dry spells.

Yarrow can be started from seeds or seedlings, but they may lack vigor and be finicky about water and weeding. Let someone else deal with the stress and buy them growing in small containers.

The Achillea root system needs a minimum of 8” of soil. If your landscape only has a thin layer of topsoil, raised beds or terracotta pots should provide enough depth. Achillea needs a pH between 6 and 8.

Prepare a planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Add enough soil to raise the bed at least 4" above the surrounding ground level. This will help to promote good drainage. Next, incorporate compost or 5-10-15 fertilizer at the rate of 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Do not allow synthetic fertilizer to come into contact with the plant.

Plant Yarrow 12" to 24" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover the root balls with soil. The tops of the root balls should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Achillea spreads by underground rhizomes, so after 4 or 5 years you might thin your plants in the spring. If left to themselves, they will most likely out-compete less aggressive plants. After digging around the perimeter of the mature plant, lift it up and shake off excess soil. Divide the clumps along their natural divisions and replant. Water frequently until you see new growth.

Darker colored flowers may fade in temperatures higher than 80ºF or as they age. You can deadhead flowers to extend the blooming season, but that won’t last past mid October. Or leave the spent flowers on for the birds to enjoy in the winter. In winter the leaves will fall off and may be removed. The evergreen crowns may remain.

Because some Achillea can grow 3' tall, it is best to plant those behind shorter ones, obviously. They can be easily staked, but it may not be necessary. I’ve seen them staked, or leaning over naturally at an angle as if they wanted to greet my knees while I walked along the garden path.

Achillea is susceptible to a preventable disease: mildew. Plants in humid climates, poor sunshine or soggy soil will most likely catch this grey spotty fungus. If your plant has new signs of mildew, spray it with sulfur when the plant is moist with morning dew. Plants with advanced mildew should be removed.

Yarrow is perfect for borders or in mass plantings. It is self-sowing and will spread indefinitely even on slopes. Infrequent foot traffic is tolerated. For an attraction to butterflies that is deer and rabbit resistant, one can’t go wrong with this plant.

Achillea is visually appealing in fresh or dried arrangements. If you want to dry them, cut them at their peak before they fade and hang them upside down in a dark place to avoid the sun’s bleaching rays. They retain their scent and are fragrant in potpourri. The flat flower heads are a great contrast to other shapes.

Horticulturalists have hybridized beautiful cultivars you’ll want to nurture. Among the many cultivars are these beauties:

A. filipendulina ‘Coronation Gold’ - Bright yellow clusters that grow up to 42” high and spread up to 2’ in Zones 3-9.

A. millefolium 'Cerise Queen' - Vivid pink flowerheads that grow 18” high in Zones 3-9.

A. millefolium 'Fire King' - Bright crimson petals surround a yellow center. It grows in Zone 3 - 8 up to 2’ tall.
A. millefolium 'Lilac Beauty' - A taller Achillea that grows 3’ tall in Zones 3-10 with lavender blooms butterflies love.

A. millefolium ‘Oertel’s Rose’ - Pink to light red 2"- 3” clusters that grow about 24" tall. Spreads at least 18”. Successful in Zones 3-10.

A. millefolium 'Paprika' - Orange-red flowers provide a riot of color from Zones 4-8. Has 3” blooms. Height and spread of 2’.

A. x ‘Moonshine’ - This canary colored flower blooms from June to September in Zones 3-9. Has bigger blooms up to 4”. Height and spread of 2’.

Many cultivars exist from crossing and back-crossing among Achillea species. If you’ve been looking for a friendly, low maintenance perennial flower that is drought tolerant, cold-hardy, heat-resistant, deer resistant and produces a specific color for your garden, look no further.

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Sedum: Hidden Jewels Of The Plant Kingdom

Sedums are hidden jewels of the plant kingdom: easily overlooked, but enchanting for those who seek them out. Get on your hands and knees and take a close look! You'll see what I mean. My grandmother loved sedums; all of them. They spilled out of planters and into the grass. She tucked them into the tightest crevices of stone walls where they thrived in the barest patches of available soil.

Their ability to thrive in almost any area contributed to their nicknames “stonecrop” and “graveyard moss”. Sedums are incredibly popular, but not visually redundant because there are so many varieties. They vary in foliage, flower, and growth habit ranging from mats only a few inches high to plants 2 feet high. Sedums are often used as edging plants, in rock gardens, on slopes, between stepping stones and in containers.

All of them are perennials with thick, succulent, water-storing leaves that make them very drought tolerant. They grow quickly in full sun and in almost any poor soil type as long as it is slightly acidic and well-drained. Sandy or rocky soil is ideal. If taller varieties are planted in rich soil or shade they will be tall, lanky and topple. Most varieties attract butterflies and other pollinators.

Plant Sedums about 10” apart. Pint sized plants usually mature within the year. Sedum should be divided every 3 to 4 years to maintain compactness and older plants will split in the center if undivided. Seed heads need to be pruned only once after all the blooms have finished, but they can be left over winter to provide food for birds. Remove seed heads in the spring when new growth shows. In the spring, you can propagate through stem cutting or division. It’s easy to pull a rosette off the main plant and transplant the small rosette to a new area in the garden. Let the ground dry between irrigations. Lower growing varieties tend to be dense and choke out weeds.

Sedum is seldom bothered by pests including deer and rabbit because of its peppery taste. Slugs, nematodes and aphids can be problematic if unchecked, but are easy to control.

Several varieties I think are particularly eye-catching include:

S. x ‘Autumn Fire’ - A Canadian import that looks just like ‘Autumn Joy’ but has denser foliage and brighter pink color. It’s 30” tall in bloom and spreads 2’ in Zones 3-9.

S. x ‘Autumn Joy’ - Grows 3’ high in bloom and 2’ wide in Zones 3-9. Green, flat and spiky foliage, which mounds up to 1’ high, produces long stalks and 4” wide broccoli-like blooms. Beginning in July, flowers then turn pink, red and rusty-red through the fall. Butterflies adore this plant.

S. x ‘Vera Jameson’ - Hardy in Zones 3-9 it grows up to 8” high and 18” wide. Nice clumpy succulent bluish-green foliage turns purple in autumn and gets 4” pink blooms in late summer. Bold fall season color.

S. kamtschaticum var. floriferum ‘Weihenstephaner Gold’ - Dark green ovoid leaves sprout low clusters of yellow blooms from May to September. Grows 5” tall and spreads 1’.

S. makinoi ‘Ogon’ - Native to Japan, it grows best in Zones 7 to 9. Attaining a 2” height and 12” width, it is ideal for potting, takes the heat and looks good all summer. Blooming in August, its tiny nearly yellow foliage looks like gold pebbles on the ground.

S. reflexum 'Blue Spruce' - Grows in Zones 3 to 9. Semi-evergreen half inch, but thick blue-green leaves whorl around linear stems that sprout stalks topped with 1” bright yellow flower clusters. Gets 10” tall when in bloom from June to August.

S. rupestre ‘Angelina’ - Grows 3-6” tall with a 1’ spread in Zones 4-9. This golden ground cover with citrus yellow shoots sort of resembles a glowing pinecone. Butterflies and bees like it. Invaluable for the stone garden, it blooms July to September.

S. sarmentosum 'Yellow Moss' - The main plant has thick ovoid green leaves, but produces radiating branches of slim leaves under pointy bright yellow flowers. One of the toughest sedums, it typically grows where ever you throw it. Gets 5” in high with unbridled spread. Blooms late spring to early summer.

S. sieboldii ‘October Daphne’ - Flat blue green foliage grows around the stem in groups of three. Has pink flowers in late summer through early fall. The whole plant turns pink during cold weather and it grows up to 1’ tall in Zones 3-10.

S. spurium ‘Dragon's Blood’ - One plant produces a 6” tall mat can spread up to 3’, so plant them 18” apart. Produces taller head-turning red blooms in late summer. Its burgundy leaves turn burnt orange in the fall. Hardy in Zones 4-9.

S. spurium ‘Fuldaglut’ - Green/bronze fleshy whorled foliage turn burgundy in fall and produces pink blooms in late summer. In Zones 4-8 it grows 6” tall and 8” wide.

S. spurium ‘John Creech’ - Has a moderate growth rate. Only 3” tall it can spread well over a foot. Its small scalloped bright green leaves have clusters of lavender flowers in the fall.

S. spurium ‘Tricolor’ - A low growing (4” tall) variety that spreads up to 15” in Zones 3-9. Variegated sage green, white and pink foliage produce pink to mauve blooms in June and July.

S. tetractinum 'Chinese Sedum' - Flat, round, green summer foliage turns reddish bronze in fall and produces bright yellow flower clusters. Only 3” tall, it spreads 1’ in Zones 4-8.

Maybe my grandmother liked lots of color or maybe she just liked abundant no-fuss plants. She found Sedums to be perfect landscape plants for her home. I bet you will too.

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Lantana: Flitting Among The Flowers

Lantanas get going when the weather is hot and kids are chasing barefoot, bustin' through the shrubbery. My earliest childhood memories of Lantana are of bright colors, the spicy minty fragrance of the foliage, throwing the little berries at my brother, butterflies flitting among the flowers, and tiny sweaty tingles on my arms and legs.

Lantanas are tropical woody shrubs native to Africa and the Americas, deciduous in cooler regions but evergreen in the warmest. Most are cold-hardy only in USDA climate zones 9 through 11. Some are cold-hardy into zones 7 or 8. In zones 7 and 8, the tops are killed by winter, but the roots usually survive to re-grow the following summer. Lantanas are grown as annuals in northern climates.

Lantana camara, Lantana montevidensis, and their hybrids produce loads of small flowers of multi-colors in bright clusters called umbels throughout the summer. The flowers, of course, attract the butterflies. Lantanas may grow from 12" to 48" high, and 24" to 48" wide, or more. They like warm weather and well-drained soil in sunny places, and are quite drought tolerant. Lantanas need very little tending, which is another reason why they are so popular in hot climate zones. After all, who wants to get out in this heat? They do so well that in some parts of the tropical world they have made pests of themselves. But don't worry; planting them in your yard shouldn't cause problems.

As already mentioned, Lantanas flower prolifically, which is the main reason they are grown. The flowers may bear clusters of a single color or many colors together. And they attract butterflies: alfalfa butterflies, buckeyes, pearl crescents, skippers, swallowtails and zebra heliconians among them.

Taller growing varieties serve well in perennial gardens and shrub borders. The low, spreading ones are superb as colorful ground cover plants, even providing erosion control on slopes. They also do well in containers, planters and patio gardens.

For gardeners who are bothered by browsers, Lantana are deer resistant. Apparently they are turned off by the fragrance, the tiny hairs that cover stems and leaves, or toxic properties of leaf and berry. The fragrance is pleasant, but sensitive gardeners may wear gloves and long sleeves when working around them due to the roughness hairs. Gardeners with small children should prevent them from munching the fruit.

To plant Lantanas, choose a site in full sun with good drainage. Eliminate weeds, if they exist. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil, but it may not be necessary. Lantanas that are fed heavily will produce lush stem and foliage at the expense of flowers. For that reason, fertilizer should be used sparingly. If fertilized at all, use something like a 5-10-15 analysis. Avoid allowing synthetic fertilizers to come into contact with the plants. Depending upon the mature size of the plant, space them 24" to 48" apart.

Though Lantanas are drought tolerant, occasional irrigation is beneficial. Not only will it encourage new growth and flowering, over-head irrigation discourages spider mites. Spider mites can cause damage to many types of plants during drought conditions. But they hate water, so a little sprinkling will encourage them to move on.

As the plants age with summer, Lantanas may bloom less. Deadheading (removing flower clusters that have dried or gone to fruit) will encourage new growth. Pruning branches back several inches will do the same.

Frost will kill Lantana foliage. Consistently cold weather will kill the plants. But in marginal climate zones, like USDA zone 8b, the roots may survive the winter, especially if mulched. In that case, the naked or dead branches should be cut back to within a few inches of the soil line. They will usually sprout and grow back in late spring.

As with most plants, certain pests can cause damage. Spider mites, caterpillars, whiteflies, nematodes, aphids and mealy bugs can take their toll, but they are seldom destructive enough to be of major concern. As mentioned before, over-head irrigation discourages mites. The others can be treated using commercially available organic or synthetic pesticides. Diseases such as leaf spot, mildew, rust and wilt are usually infrequent and preventable. Soggy soil causes root rot and death. Insufficient sunlight contributes to leaf diseases.

There are many cultivars of Lantana. The following are worth considering:

• 'Athens Rose' - Flowers pink, magenta, yellow. Grows to 36" tall and as wide. Cold hardy to USDA climate zone 7.
• 'Carnival' - Flowers lavender, pink, red and yellow. Grows 24" tall and to 48" wide.
• 'Chapel Hill' (PPAF) - A new introduction by Plant Introductions, Inc. Flowers yellow. Grows 24" tall and 48" wide. Cold hardy to USDA climate zone 7.
• 'Confetti' - Flowers pink, purple and yellow. Grows to 36" tall and to 96" wide.
• 'Dallas Red' - Flowers red and yellow. Grows 36" to 48" tall and as wide.
• 'Kathleen' - Flowers pink and yellow. Grows 24" tall and up to 72" wide.
• 'Miss Huff' - Flowers orange, pink and yellow. Grows to 60" tall and up to 120" wide. A 2003 Georgia Gold Medal Winner.
• 'Mozelle' - Flowers pink, red and yellow. Grows to 24" tall and as wide. Does not require deadheading. Cold hardy to USDA climate zone 7.
• 'New Gold' - Flowers yellow. Grows to 36" tall and to 48" wide. A 1995 Georgia Gold Medal Winner.
• 'Radiation' - Flowers orange and red. Grows to 60" tall and as wide.
• 'Silver Mound' - Flowers white. Grows 24" tall and 30" wide. Cold hardy to USDA climate zone 7.
• 'Trailing Purple' - Flowers lilac pink to purple. Grows to 24" tall and 48" wide. Cold hardy to USDA climate zone 9.

If you are choosing Lantana primarily to attract butterflies, you may be interested in this paper from Auburn University, Butterfly Feeding Preferences among Cultivars of Lantana camara in the Landscape, a Commonly Recommended Nectar Source by L.L. Bruner, D.J. Eakes, G.J. Keever, J.W. Baier, C.Stuart-Whitman, P.R. Knight, and J.E. Altland.  The researchers tested a selection of cultivars and identified some most attractive to the little creatures. 'New Gold', and 'Radiation' were among the best.

Gardeners, especially those in the south, who wish to bring butterflies up-close should include Lantanas in their landscapes. They are colorful, sun and heat loving, drought tolerant, deer resistant, and require little care.

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Anemones: Born Of The Wind

"Anemone" translated from Greek, means "wind", for it was believed that spring winds caused them to bloom. They are native to the Mediterranean region where winters are warm and summers are dry. There they have a rich heritage in legend and history. Three species are widely available: A. blanda, A. coronaria and A. sylvestris.

Anemone blanda is known as Grecian Wind Flower. The name evokes scenes of ancient temples, and rocky hills swept by Mediterranean breezes. Certainly, the scene gives a clue to its preferred habitat. A. blanda is reliably hardy in USDA climate zones 6 through 8. Full sun to partial shade is best; morning sun to light shade throughout the day in southern regions. Well-drained soil is essential. The plant naturalizes readily to spread a spring-time carpet of light blue, pink or white daisy-like flowers on 6" to 8" stems. The fern-like foliage is also quite attractive. In addition to naturalizing, Anemone blanda is desirable for bulb and rock gardens, perennial borders, container and patio gardens.

Anemone coronaria is known as Poppy Anemone or Florist's Anemone. The flower shape and size is very much like that of a poppy. There are two groups of Poppy Anemone widely available: De Caen and St. Brigid. De Caen anemones produce flowers in bright shades of red, white, blue and pink. St. Brigid anemones produce double-petal flowers in the same shades. A. coronaria is not as cold-tolerant as A. blanda, being reliably hardy in USDA climate zones 8 through 10. However, it tolerates heat much better. Sun exposure and soil moisture requirements for A. coronaria are the same as for A. blanda. These are excellent for bulb and cutting gardens, perennial borders, container and patio gardens

Though anemones prefer warm climates, they can be enjoyed by gardeners in cooler regions. Planting season for southern gardeners is in the fall. Planting season for northern gardeners is in the spring. Logically, they are commercially available both times of year.

When you receive them, the tubers will be shriveled and dry. That is normal. Simply soak them over-night in water at room temperature before planting.

As noted, the planting site should be well-drained and in full sun to partial shade.

Plant the tubers 6" to 10" apart and 1" to 3" deep, depending upon the size. Sometimes it's difficult to tell which side is up. Don't worry about it, they will re-orient themselves.

Water thoroughly but gently, taking care not to wash the bulbs to the surface. If planted in the fall, the roots will develop throughout the cool months and flowers will appear in spring. If planted in the spring, the flowers will appear.

Water as needed to maintain slightly moist soil during spring and fall. Anemones are drought-tolerant during summer.

Flowering lasts about four weeks. When blooming is completed, let the foliage remain to build food reserves for next year. Foliage may be removed when it yellows and dies back at the end of summer. Take care to leave the bulbs undisturbed. After a few months of dormancy, they will begin another growth cycle.

If you are one of those who tries to stretch the limits of where a plant might be grown successfully, know that Anemone coronaria (De Caen and St. Brigid) benefit from a covering of mulch in USDA climate zones 7 & 8. Anemone blanda benefit from a covering of mulch in USDA climate zones 3 & 4. If you don't want to risk losing them during your cold winters, lift them after the foliage has fallen, then dry and store them over winter.

As mentioned before, anemones do well in pots and patio gardens. Choose containers with adequate drainage. To improve drainage, place 1" or 2" of styrofoam packing "popcorn" in the bottom of the container. Fill the container with good quality potting soil. Position containers where they will receive full sun to partial shade.

Plant the tubers 2" to 3" apart. Again, it is not necessary to consider which side is supposed to be up. After planting, water well, thoroughly and gently soaking the soil.

When blooming is completed, let the foliage remain to build food reserves. Leaves may be removed when dried at the end of summer. Take care to leave the bulbs undisturbed in the pots. After a few months of dormancy, they will begin another growth cycle.

If the containers are kept in an area where cold weather is excessive (USDA climate zones 7 & 8 for A. coronaria, or zones 3 & 4 for A. blanda), they should be moved to where they can be protected.

Anemone sylvestris, also known as Snowdrop Anemone, is a low-growing, low maintenance perennial that you'll love. It produces fragrant, bright white blooms with yellow centers from spring to early summer. Flowers may appear again in fall. Mature height is 12 inches to 18 inches. Dense, herbaceous, fern-like foliage makes a fine ground cover perfect for covering yellowing foliage of spring bulbs. Anemone sylvestris is considered to be an heirloom plant, known to have been grown in the U.S. since the 1700s.

Anemone sylvestris prefers average, well-drained soil with pH from 4.6 to 6.0 in full sun to partial shade. Dead-heading helps to prolong bloom season. Good for USDA climate zones 2 to 9. Space 12 inches to 18 inches apart.

If you've never grown anemones before, you should do so. Their beauty and historic legacy will lend color and interest to your gardening experience.

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Ornamental Allium - Fireworks In The Summer Garden

Ornamental onions and garlic are from the genus Allium (AL-lee-um). Allium is classified in family Alliaceae although some classifications have included it in the lily family (Liliaceae). With about 1250 species, it is one of the largest plant genera in the world. These perennial bulbous plants produce chemical compounds that give them a characteristic onion or garlic taste and odor. Many are used as food plants. Ornamental allium has its origins in Central Asia and the Mediterranean area.

When I was growing up, our neighbors planted rows of ornamental Allium along the fence that divided our yards. Every spring we could see glimpses of these flowering fireworks through the chain link fence. We had no lack of bees and butterflies that these perennials attracted.

Allium has shiny, glossy foliage and produces 12" - 48" high leafless stalks upon which sit tufted globes of color. The late spring and early summer blooms typically have great potential for cut flower production. The blooms last much longer in a vase than your typical flower. This plant attracts bees, butterflies and birds, but disinterests deer and rodents. It doesn't have any pest problems. The dried flower heads can provide winter visual interest.

Before you plant this carefree item let's go over the basics. Allium has average water needs so it will need regular watering but it doesn't swim. Allium is very heat tolerant, but if it wilts it's in trouble. It requires sun to partial shade, like full p.m. sun. In general, Allium is hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 -10. Only in zones 3 and 4 do they require mulch to get through the winter. If you plant them in containers where the bulbs are more exposed, just bring them in so they're not outside below 10°F. I haven't heard of Allium being unable to grow in any pH soil types.

When you plant Allium in the fall you must focus on the variety and the size of the bulb to ensure it is spaced correctly. With those details in mind, choose a site that receives proper sun exposure and where the soil drains well. Prepare a hole three times the circumference of your bulb. Therefore, a 2" bulb should be planted 6" deep, a 3" bulb planted 9" deep, etc... If planting a group of bulbs, space the holes 4" to 12" apart depending upon the varieties' sizes. Position the bulb in the hole with the pointed end up and cover it with the soil. After soaking it in, you may spread mulch over the entire planting area if you'd like. Compost or wood chips also work well. Synthetic fertilizer should not come into contact with the bulbs because it will burn them. Similarly, fertilizer placed on the soil just above the bulbs will cause damage.

Deadhead flowers to encourage more blooms unless you want the seeds or wish to dry them to use in dried flower arrangements. Although ornamental alliums are edible I wouldn't eat them. Just enjoy their beauty.

With nearly 400 ornamental allium species to choose from, it's easy to find one that fits into any garden. These sun-loving flowers look like cheerful lollipops bouncing in the wind, or fireworks displays in the garden. I've listed my favorites (the best ones) below.

A. aflatunense: Produces purple flowers in May and that last two to three weeks. Plants are 24" - 36" inches tall with large, multi-flowered umbels. Planting them 3" apart, or nine per square foot. Full sunlight to PM only sunlight. Only those of you in Zone 3 will need to mulch.

A. christophii: Also known as the Star of Persia. As the bootstrap leaves wither, A. christophii sends up stout stems topped by 8" -10" airy amethyst spherical heads that are almost too big and too beautiful to be real. If you plant them in a group surrounded by leafy long lasting green foliage of another perennial, passersby will have to stop to look. Blooms June and is hardy to Zone 4.

A. caeruleum: These 12" to 24" high plants produce vivid blue multi-flowered umbels that look stunning in front of a white picket fence or white siding. It flowers in May or June and blooms last two to three weeks. The bulbs usually aren't big and can be planted 2" apart with 15 - 25 bulbs per square foot. Hardy in Zone 4 with mulch, Zones 5 to 7 hardy without mulch. Zone 3 misses out. Full sunlight only.

A. giganteum: A spectacular beauty of lilac-purple flowers on 3' to 4' tall stalks. Flowers in June and July and blooms for up to three weeks. It is native to the Himalayas. These giant 6" - 9" flower-heads open green, then turn deep violet. Easy to grow and very heat-tolerant. Plant them 12" apart or one bulb per sq. ft. in full sunlight to PM only sunlight. USDA Climate Zone 3 with mulch, Zones 4 to 7 without mulch.

A. x Gladiator: Another fantastic one with 4" to 5" bluish-purple globe shaped flowers. Blooms in summer on strong 36" to 48" stems in full sun, well drained soil and with minimal water. A great cut flower. Grow happily in Zones 4 - 8. They are dramatic planted at the back of the border behind lower growing perennials.

A. aflatunense Globemaster: Can't wait to have fluffy 8" violet poofballs in your garden? Plant in fall 3" apart to have flowers in late spring that last two to three weeks. Plants are 24" - 36" tall with large, multi-flowered umbels. Full sunlight to PM only sunlight. Climatic Zone 3 with mulch, Zones 4 to 7 without mulch. Because it's sterile, it puts all its energy into producing more flowers instead of making seeds - and you enjoy the difference! Ideal combined with low-growing, mounding perennials.

A. sphaerocephalon Hair: For something unique and fun, plant 'Hair'. With its free-form style and bright green color, is a bold addition to any garden.

A karataviense: It has wide, blue-green leaves and short flower stalks with golf ball-sized spheres of white, pale pink or pink. Flowers in May and lasts 2-3 weeks. Plants are 10" - 12" tall and have sweetly scented florets. Plant them 6" - 12" apart. Mulch if you live in Climatic Zone 3 and Zones 4 to 7 without mulch. Full sunlight to PM only sunlight.

A. karataviense Ivory Queen: Broad blue-gray foliage shows off the blooms to beautiful effect. Only 6" to 9" inches tall, the plants have masses of fragrant six inch white florets in early summer. Full sun or partial shade. Because they're small they're good for pots in Zone 3 but don't need mulch in Zones 4 - 8.

A. moly: Yellow flowers appear in spring and lasts 2 - 3 weeks. Plants are 10" - 12" tall with a loose sphere of yellow flowers that have a slight garlic fragrance. They're actually native to Southern Europe. Plant A. moly 2" - 3" inches apart with mulch in Zone 3. Hardy through Zone 4-7. Full sunlight to PM only sunlight and can be grown in dry shade.

A. x Mount Everest: Plant the mountain's majesty in your yard against a dark background. It will highlight the five inch snowy white orbs on their 36" tall stems. Desired by gardeners, butterflies and bees. ‘Mt. Everest's’ long strapping leaves last until flowering time. Blooms May – June. Hardy to zone 4.

A. neapolitanum: Plants are 15" tall with a loose bunch of bright white flowers and last two to three weeks. They like to be about 4"apart. Climatic Zone 7 with mulch and Zones 8 to 10 without mulch. Full sunlight only.

A. oreophilum: Synonymous with A. ostrowskianum, A. oreophilum flowers in spring and also lasts 2 - 3 weeks. Plants are 10" - 12" inches tall with a loose 5" head of red flowers. Climatic Zone 3 with mulch, 4 to 7 without mulch. Planting density: 2" - 3" inches apart. Full sunlight to PM only sunlight.

A. aflatunense Purple Sensation: As the name suggests you'll get deep purple flowers on this May bloomer that will last 3 weeks. Plants are 24" - 36" tall with 3" flowerheads. But no worries, each head has up to 50 blooms! Punctuate your garden with purple! Planting density: 3" apart even in dry, hot soil. Easily self-sows. Full sunlight to PM only sunlight. Climatic Zone 3 with mulch, Zones 4 to 7 without mulch.

A. schubertii: The lilac-pink blooms on these bloomstems are irregular in length and truly look like fireworks, unlike other Allium which have a solid ball of color. Up to 200 miniature star-styled flowers shoot out in all different lengths from the flower's center. And they're famously fragrant. Blooms May – June. Pedicels grow 12" - 18". Give A. schubertii full sun and well-drained, even dry, soil. Plant the large bulbs 4" deep and about 8" apart. Hardy to Zone 5.

A. siculum: Synonymous with A. bulgaricum and Nectaroscordum siculum. A treasured favorite for more than 300 years in southern France. Just the thing for the water-saving garden, this carefree Allium shoots up 2-1/2' to 3' tall and crowns itself with a dozen or more blooms. These full sun flowers are unusual with their green-white base and heavy maroon markings. The large bloom clusters arch and cascade down and out for a great visual effect. Requiring very little summer moisture and grows heartily in Zones 4 - 9.

A. sphaerocephalon: Also known as Drumsticks, this is an eye and bee-catching wonder from its crimson-purple 2 inch wide blooms all the way down to its narrow grassy leaves. Blooms later than most Allium from July–August. Hardy to Zone 5, it gets about 24" to 30" tall.

Need to save water? Plant Allium. Want a carefree plant? Plant Allium. Want color, height and compliments? Plant Allium.

Purchase these bulbs now while quantities last to plant in this Autumn's garden! Next year this time you'll be enjoying nature's fireworks. You'll definitely want a full display.

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Butterfly Gardening To Renew Your Sense of Wonder

There is something about a butterfly that stirs in adults the sense of wonder that children feel. The colors and fluttering wings excite us and invite a closer look. They seem so ephemeral and free.
But butterflies have a rough time of it. When fields become malls and open spaces become home sites, some habitat is lost. When pesticides are used, they may fall victim. And I can't begin to tell you how many I've washed from my windshield and grill.

Maybe, then, planting a butterfly garden would be the right thing to do. Butterfly gardens help establish new habitats and improve the ecosystem. What is more, they bring these beauties into view so we can experience that lost sense of wonder.
A proper butterfly garden needs the following:

• Sun. Butterflies enjoy it because the warmth invigorates them. In addition, many of their favorite nectar-producing plants grow best in sunny locations.
• Flowers. Butterflies need blooms that produce nectar.
• Host plants. There are two kinds to consider: those that provide a place to lay eggs, and those that provide food for caterpillars. Some plants may serve both purposes. You'll have to tolerate chewing damage on them. Better yet, learn to love it.
• Water. A very shallow puddle or spot of mud that is consistently wet will be much appreciated.
• The butterfly garden must also be pesticide-free.

When designing the butterfly garden, remember that it is for them, not just for you. So you may have to abandon some of your aesthetic preferences. You see, some of the best nectar plants are not all that attractive. Many are, in fact, weeds. Butterflies don't care what the garden looks like. A colorful jumble will suit them just fine. And, like most of us, they just can't get enough of a good thing. You'll need to either plant your butterfly garden apart from your vegetable or flower garden, or learn to look at some weeds through different eyes.

Butterflies seem to prefer plants native their local habitat, so consider them first. This means you may want to do a little research to determine which native plants to include. But if you don't have the time or inclination to do so, worry not. Butterflies will adapt just fine to non-native plants.
Here is a list of some native plants that attract butterflies:

• Asclepias incarnata, A. syriaca, A. tuberosa. These are commonly known as Milkweed or Butterfly Weed.
• Aster spp. These include the New England Asters, Michaelmas Daisys, and many others.
• Bidens spp. Commonly known as Tickseed.
• Clethra alnifolia. This lovely shrub produces long-lasting clusters of sweet-smelling flowers that you'll also enjoy.
• Echinacea purpurea. Coneflower. Many new varieties of this native beauty are often introduced, but 'Magnus' and 'White Swan' are very reliable.
• Eupatorium spp. These include Queen-Of-The-Meadow and Joe Pye Weed. Both are stately additions to the perennial garden.
• Itea virginica. Also known as Virginia Sweetspire. With a lot of ornamental potential, it begs to be included in the landscape.
• Liatris spp. Blazing Star. It's a favorite for cutting and flower arrangements.
• Lobelia spp. Cardinal Flower (L. cardinalis) is one of my favorites.
• Verbena spp. This genus includes natives, non-natives and naturalized species. Brazilian Verbena, Homestead Purple, Homestead Pink, Peruvian Verbena, Ron Deal and others.
• Vernonia noveboracensis. Also known as New York Ironweed.

Here is a list of some non-native plants that attract butterflies:

• Asclepias curassavica. Another known as Butterfly Weed.
• Gomphrena globosa. Globe Amaranth.
• Lantana spp. Often grown as annuals in colder climates, they survive as perennials in southern states. New Gold is extremely popular, but other good ones include Miss Huff, Trailing Purple, etc.
• Mentha spp. Mint. Many are available and are as delicious to humans as to butterflies.
• Pentas lanceolata. These are treated as annuals in northern states, but grow as perennials in warmer climates.
• Tagetes patula. Marigolds.
• Tithonia spp. Mexican sunflower.
• Zinnia. This delightful annual needs no introduction. So easy a child can grow them.

As I mentioned earlier, butterflies need host plants for food and a place to lay their eggs. Here is a short list.

• Antirrhinum majus. Snapdragon. Buckeye butterflies love them. Plant some for yourself elsewhere.
• Asclepias spp. Milkweed and Butterfly Weed. These do triple duty. Butterflies enjoy the nectar, they provide cover for eggs, and caterpillars eat them. Monarchs are particularly fond of Asclepias.
• Parsley, Dill, Fennel. Black Swallowtail caterpillars will do a number on them. Plant some for yourself, too, in another location.
• Cornus florida. Dogwoods are beneficial for Spring Azures.
• Humulus lupulus. Hops. These are as useful for Red Admiral butterflies as they are for brewmasters.
• Lindera benzoin. Spicebush is a lovely native with ornamental possibilities. Makes a good tea, too. Spicebush Swallowtails love 'em.
• Prunus serotina. Wild Cherry. Painted Lady butterflies prefer them.
• Salix spp. Willows are attractive to Viceroys.
• Viola spp. Pansies and Violets entice Great Spangled Fritillarys.

In addition to various plant selections, there are also other ways to be kind to butterflies. Nectar feeders attract them. The added advantage is that you can position them close to your windows so you can get a better look at the little creatures. Children, of course, will be captivated. I can't think of a better way to help them learn and appreciate these wonderful gifts of Nature.
When circumstances don't allow for planting host plants (or even if they do), a butterfly house can provide a sheltered place for butterflies to lay their eggs. Besides being eco-friendly, they also look great as decorative objects in the garden.
For more information, visit the following websites:

• The North American Butterfly Association
• The National Wildlife Federation
• Monarch Watch

If you've planted a butterfly garden before, I'd love for you to share your experiences with the rest of us. To do so is easy; just add your comments to this blog!

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Behind A Garden Wall in Savannah: The Isaiah Davenport House

An unfortunate result of living near a scenic destination is that one may seldom visit it. So it was for me and Savannah's historic Davenport house, until one afternoon I passed that garden wall and realized I had no idea what grew behind it.

The lovely Federal-style home was completed by Isaiah Davenport, a master builder, as his own residence in 1820. Restored with care, the house features original plasterwork, a beautiful cantilever staircase and furnishings authentic to the 1820s. The courtyard garden was originally a Bicentennial project of the Trustees' Garden Club of Savannah. It was later re-designed by well-known horticulturist Penelope Hobhouse. Saved from demolition in 1955, the effort was the first of many for the Historic Savannah Foundation and marked the beginning of the historic preservation movement in Savannah.

Join me now for this photographic tour.



This decorative urn serves as a central focal point. It is planted with season annuals.



The garden is laid out in a style typical of the Federal period. Beds are outlined with boxwood. Small magnolias and crape myrtles provide adequate shade.



Foundational plants include Aspidistra elatior, Ficus pumila, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Pittosporum tobira, and Camellia cultivars. A slate-paved courtyard provides a delightful place to relax.

With advance reservations, the staff at the Davenport House can arrange delightful visits for groups. The hospitality options can include exclusive tours of the site along with refreshments such as coffee, orange juice and muffins, wine and cheese, Madiera, and desserts.

The Isaiah Davenport house is located on the corner of State Street and Habersham in historic Savannah, GA.

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How To Define and Prepare Landscape Planting Beds

Most homeowners understand the need for foundation plantings around their residence, but landscape planting beds in the lawn are also very desirable. They can improve the appearance and “curb-appeal” of the home and increase the market value of the property. Landscape beds also reduce the turf area, thereby reducing the need for turf irrigation, turf fertilizing and mowing time.

There are many possible procedures that one could use to define and prepare a landscape planting bed. The one I describe here is simple and easy to do.

The contours of the bed should be aesthetically pleasing. What satisfies one person may not satisfy another. But I prefer beds that are curved and flowing.

Beds that incorporate existing trees should include all roots that are exposed in the lawn. This will help to avoid mower damage to the roots. Mower damage will weaken and may kill the roots, thereby causing the trees to be structurally unstable.

Planting beds that are near structures or other planting beds should allow adequate passage between for lawn mowers and foot traffic. If that is not possible, consider incorporating all into one large landscape bed.

Begin by roughly defining the contours with small marking flags. These are available at many hardware and building supply stores. You can then view the proposed area from different angles as you might view a sculpture. Make necessary adjustments by moving the flags.

Next, “connect the dots” by sketching the contours between the flags with red or orange marking paint. Paint is available in aerosol spray. It is easily applied with a hand-held wand. This simple, single-wheel device holds the paint can upside down at ground level. A trigger on the handle controls the flow of spray. Apply the paint while rolling the wand around the contour of the bed. Paint and a wand are sold in many hardware and building supply stores.

This is the point at which you should take more care to produce aesthetically appealing curves, giving attention to proportion and detail. If you make mistakes, don’t worry. You can easily “erase” errors with your foot and make corrections. Marks that are not thoroughly erased will either be covered by mulch or mowed away.

When the shape of the bed is finally determined, grass within the bed can be killed with a spray application of herbicide such as glyphosate. Glyphosate will not remain in the soil to endanger future plantings. Spray on a calm day to avoid drift onto desirable shrubs and turf. Avoid spraying if irrigation or rainfall is possible within the next six hours. Take care not to allow herbicide to be carried on the bottom of shoes to areas outside of the planting bed. Always follow label instructions and wear protective clothing as recommended. Take precautions to protect other people and pets. Allow herbicide to dry thoroughly before re-entering the area.

Bed contours can be established and made more or less permanent by various means. Metal, plastic or concrete edging may be installed. I prefer to establish the bed with a trenching machine. The EZ Trench Bedscaper Bed Edger and Trencher is perfect for this purpose. The machine produces a trench about 4" deep with a straight outer edge and a sloping inside edge. Soil is easily leveled with a hard rake toward the inside of the bed. (I have no profit interest in this machine or the company that manufactures it. Mine is an honest recommendation.)

Unless the soil is severely compacted, I recommend not roto-tilling the planting bed. Tilling brings weed seeds to the surface which will germinate and cause future problems. It is better to carefully prepare each planting hole by digging to the proper size and softening the soil with a garden fork.

Whether the bed is planted or not, an immediate application of mulch will improve the appearance of the bed, retain moisture, and suppress weeds.

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Ajuga: A Low Maintenance Ground Cover

Ajuga (Ajuga reptans) is also known as Bugleweed because the flowers on its 6” tall spike are two-lipped and tubular. Flowers are generally in hues of blue and purple but can be found in white and red. It is an evergreen plant prized for its dynamic color that stays compact and thick year round. The oval glossy leaves are 3”-4” long and grow opposite each other in rosettes. The foliage has color schemes from dark green to bronze to purple and there are many variegated forms. They start blooming in early spring, peak in late May/early June and are done by the end of July.

Originally found in Europe and Asia, it thrives in full sun to full shade areas. However, if you plant it in full sun, the leaves will be smaller, but you’ll have more spikes and flowers. If it’s in the shade, expect bigger leaves and less spikes throughout the blooming season. Regardless of where you put it, this plant cannot tolerate salinity in the soil or drought. Though ajuga prefers slightly moist soil, it is very important that the soil be allowed to dry between waterings.

Ajuga is mature at 3.5” high but it can grow up to 9” in full bloom. It grows in Zones 3-9 and is frost hardy.

Ajuga grows best in moist fine or medium textured soil. A pH between 4.5 and 6.5 is ideal. Ajuga needs fertile soil so it would be best to incorporate composting or fertilizer before planting. It prefers sandy soil, but as long as the soil is well drained Ajuga will tolerate clay.

Like any plant in the mint family, it grows rapidly and spreads through rhizomes, which makes it a widely known and versatile border and ground cover. Seriously, it looks like a carpet and grows on slopes, so if you’re looking for a way to stop mild erosion this is it. If you’re planting it along your sidewalk to make your path lush, it will do the trick, but be prepared to trim it back frequently. Don’t use it as an edging for your yard- it spreads.

Ajuga is relatively cheaper than other ground covers simply because you’ll need less of it to cover the same square-foot area. If you buy them already established, plant them at least a foot apart.

Bumblebees and hummingbirds like them, but deer don’t. Ajuga is a low allergen.

Propagate these plants through division in the fall or spring every other year. Runners are easily separated from the original plant and replanted. Even if you don’t want to replant the runners, thin the mother plant anyway. It helps keep the plant contained. If you have a variegated plant and your runner has non-variegated leaves, pluck the runner out or it will revert to its non-variegated form. You can prune Ajuga with shears or just run it over with a lawn mower; it won’t be bothered either way.

Poorly drained soils and poor air circulation are the cause of most of Ajuga's problems.  Southern blight and fungal leaf spots are two.  If your plant gets blight or leaf spots, remove it and the soil around the crown immediately. Check other plants for signs of the fungus and trim or remove those too. Then wash your boots and tools. It may seem extreme, but prevention is the key to success. Plus, this plant grows so fast anyway you’ll hardly notice the absence of the ones removed. They are susceptible to root rot if you put soil above (or on) Ajuga’s crown or if you plant them too deeply. Just be attentive. They can also get crown rot if you don’t thin them out every 3 years or so.

To sum up, Bugleweed likes:

• Any amount of shade or sun
  
• Any well drained moderately fertile soil
  
• Slightly moist soil that is allowed to dry between waterings
  
• Air circulation around the roots
  
• Occasional thinning
  
• A pH between 4 and 7
  
• Zones 3-9
  

Any of the following varieties could be perfect for your yard!

• A. reptans x ‘Burgundy Glow’- 6” tall blue blossoms grow from 6” tall green, pink and cream speckled foliage. Expect bronze and burgundy tones in the winter. Plant 10” apart and expect a spread up to 18”.
  
• A. reptans x ‘Catlin’s Giant’- One of the largest varieties with 4” blue spikes on 6” tall foliage with a 2’ spread. It’s green, bronze and ruddy leaves are as large as spinach and don’t tolerate foot traffic.
  
• A. reptans x ‘Chocolate Chip’- Gorgeous green and chocolate foliage in the spring looks like a Hershey bar in the fall (if growing in the sun). A shorter varietal, it grows 4” tall and produces a 4” blue spike. It has an 18” spread and should be planted 9” apart. It’s narrow leaves look stunning en masse.
  
• A. reptans x ‘Gaiety’- A happy little plant with 2” long purple and bronze leaves with 2” lilac flower spikes. Grows 8” tall, including the blooms, in Zones 4-8.
  
• A. reptans x ‘Silver Queen’- Features 6” tall mottled light green and cream foliage and 6” tall blue whorled spikes.
  
• A. reptans x ‘Metallica Crispa’- Its 5” tall deep bronze foliage looks most metallic in full sun. Sports a variety of blue 6” spikes. Some people report this variety grows in Zone 10.
  

Unlike other perennials, Ajuga is prized for its palette of colors that please the eye throughout the year. In addition to being a dense tough plant that can handle children, animals and the occasional car or bike, it easily turns that unplanted or forgotten part of the yard into a beautiful landscape you will be proud of.

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Tips For Planting Ground Cover Junipers

Junipers are very popular ground cover plants for hot, sunny areas. Most tolerate poor soils. They do not do well in shade.

There are many varieties available. Obviously, the best ground cover junipers have a spreading habit. Some grow only a couple of inches high; others grow much taller.

Container-grown junipers can be planted almost any time of the year as long as the ground is not frozen. Because they have been growing in a nursery pot for a period of time, little damage is done to the roots as the plant is transferred to the soil.

Proper soil preparation begins with removing weeds. Provided that the soil is not badly compacted, I do not recommend tilling the planting site because it brings many dormant weed seeds to the surface to germinate later. I prefer to spray the area with glyphosate to kill the weeds. When using horticultural chemicals, always follow label instructions.

The planting hole should be twice as wide as, and slightly shallower than, the root ball. If the soil at the bottom of the hole seems compacted, a garden fork can be used to cultivate it deeply.
After the planting hole is dug, carefully remove the juniper from the container. Root tips die quickly when exposed to air, so plant promptly.

Place the root ball in the hole. Leave the top of the root ball about 1/2 to 1 inch above the surrounding soil. Don't cover it unless roots are exposed. When adding soil around the shrub, lightly tamp the soil to remove air pockets, or add water to help settle the soil. Form a basin around the base of the shrub to encourage water penetration, and water thoroughly after planting. A 3" layer of mulch around the plant can be beneficial in retaining moisture and suppressing weeds.

For the first year until plants become established, monitor moisture levels in the soil. Though many junipers are drought-tolerant, young junipers do not tolerate drying out. If the plant shows signs of stress, its already too late to save it. Water the shrubs deeply and slowly enough to allow the water to soak in. Keep the area under the shrubs mulched.

Fertilization is usually not necessary for newly planted junipers. Depending on conditions, fertilizer may be added at a later time.

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