Ajuga: A Low Maintenance Ground Cover

Ajuga (Ajuga reptans) is also known as Bugleweed because the flowers on its 6” tall spike are two-lipped and tubular. Flowers are generally in hues of blue and purple but can be found in white and red. It is an evergreen plant prized for its dynamic color that stays compact and thick year round. The oval glossy leaves are 3”-4” long and grow opposite each other in rosettes. The foliage has color schemes from dark green to bronze to purple and there are many variegated forms. They start blooming in early spring, peak in late May/early June and are done by the end of July.

Originally found in Europe and Asia, it thrives in full sun to full shade areas. However, if you plant it in full sun, the leaves will be smaller, but you’ll have more spikes and flowers. If it’s in the shade, expect bigger leaves and less spikes throughout the blooming season. Regardless of where you put it, this plant cannot tolerate salinity in the soil or drought. Though ajuga prefers slightly moist soil, it is very important that the soil be allowed to dry between waterings.

Ajuga is mature at 3.5” high but it can grow up to 9” in full bloom. It grows in Zones 3-9 and is frost hardy.

Ajuga grows best in moist fine or medium textured soil. A pH between 4.5 and 6.5 is ideal. Ajuga needs fertile soil so it would be best to incorporate composting or fertilizer before planting. It prefers sandy soil, but as long as the soil is well drained Ajuga will tolerate clay.

Like any plant in the mint family, it grows rapidly and spreads through rhizomes, which makes it a widely known and versatile border and ground cover. Seriously, it looks like a carpet and grows on slopes, so if you’re looking for a way to stop mild erosion this is it. If you’re planting it along your sidewalk to make your path lush, it will do the trick, but be prepared to trim it back frequently. Don’t use it as an edging for your yard- it spreads.

Ajuga is relatively cheaper than other ground covers simply because you’ll need less of it to cover the same square-foot area. If you buy them already established, plant them at least a foot apart.

Bumblebees and hummingbirds like them, but deer don’t. Ajuga is a low allergen.

Propagate these plants through division in the fall or spring every other year. Runners are easily separated from the original plant and replanted. Even if you don’t want to replant the runners, thin the mother plant anyway. It helps keep the plant contained. If you have a variegated plant and your runner has non-variegated leaves, pluck the runner out or it will revert to its non-variegated form. You can prune Ajuga with shears or just run it over with a lawn mower; it won’t be bothered either way.

Poorly drained soils and poor air circulation are the cause of most of Ajuga's problems.  Southern blight and fungal leaf spots are two.  If your plant gets blight or leaf spots, remove it and the soil around the crown immediately. Check other plants for signs of the fungus and trim or remove those too. Then wash your boots and tools. It may seem extreme, but prevention is the key to success. Plus, this plant grows so fast anyway you’ll hardly notice the absence of the ones removed. They are susceptible to root rot if you put soil above (or on) Ajuga’s crown or if you plant them too deeply. Just be attentive. They can also get crown rot if you don’t thin them out every 3 years or so.

To sum up, Bugleweed likes:

• Any amount of shade or sun
  
• Any well drained moderately fertile soil
  
• Slightly moist soil that is allowed to dry between waterings
  
• Air circulation around the roots
  
• Occasional thinning
  
• A pH between 4 and 7
  
• Zones 3-9
  

Any of the following varieties could be perfect for your yard!

• A. reptans x ‘Burgundy Glow’- 6” tall blue blossoms grow from 6” tall green, pink and cream speckled foliage. Expect bronze and burgundy tones in the winter. Plant 10” apart and expect a spread up to 18”.
  
• A. reptans x ‘Catlin’s Giant’- One of the largest varieties with 4” blue spikes on 6” tall foliage with a 2’ spread. It’s green, bronze and ruddy leaves are as large as spinach and don’t tolerate foot traffic.
  
• A. reptans x ‘Chocolate Chip’- Gorgeous green and chocolate foliage in the spring looks like a Hershey bar in the fall (if growing in the sun). A shorter varietal, it grows 4” tall and produces a 4” blue spike. It has an 18” spread and should be planted 9” apart. It’s narrow leaves look stunning en masse.
  
• A. reptans x ‘Gaiety’- A happy little plant with 2” long purple and bronze leaves with 2” lilac flower spikes. Grows 8” tall, including the blooms, in Zones 4-8.
  
• A. reptans x ‘Silver Queen’- Features 6” tall mottled light green and cream foliage and 6” tall blue whorled spikes.
  
• A. reptans x ‘Metallica Crispa’- Its 5” tall deep bronze foliage looks most metallic in full sun. Sports a variety of blue 6” spikes. Some people report this variety grows in Zone 10.
  

Unlike other perennials, Ajuga is prized for its palette of colors that please the eye throughout the year. In addition to being a dense tough plant that can handle children, animals and the occasional car or bike, it easily turns that unplanted or forgotten part of the yard into a beautiful landscape you will be proud of.

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Tips For Planting Ground Cover Junipers

Junipers are very popular ground cover plants for hot, sunny areas. Most tolerate poor soils. They do not do well in shade.

There are many varieties available. Obviously, the best ground cover junipers have a spreading habit. Some grow only a couple of inches high; others grow much taller.

Container-grown junipers can be planted almost any time of the year as long as the ground is not frozen. Because they have been growing in a nursery pot for a period of time, little damage is done to the roots as the plant is transferred to the soil.

Proper soil preparation begins with removing weeds. Provided that the soil is not badly compacted, I do not recommend tilling the planting site because it brings many dormant weed seeds to the surface to germinate later. I prefer to spray the area with glyphosate to kill the weeds. When using horticultural chemicals, always follow label instructions.

The planting hole should be twice as wide as, and slightly shallower than, the root ball. If the soil at the bottom of the hole seems compacted, a garden fork can be used to cultivate it deeply.
After the planting hole is dug, carefully remove the juniper from the container. Root tips die quickly when exposed to air, so plant promptly.

Place the root ball in the hole. Leave the top of the root ball about 1/2 to 1 inch above the surrounding soil. Don't cover it unless roots are exposed. When adding soil around the shrub, lightly tamp the soil to remove air pockets, or add water to help settle the soil. Form a basin around the base of the shrub to encourage water penetration, and water thoroughly after planting. A 3" layer of mulch around the plant can be beneficial in retaining moisture and suppressing weeds.

For the first year until plants become established, monitor moisture levels in the soil. Though many junipers are drought-tolerant, young junipers do not tolerate drying out. If the plant shows signs of stress, its already too late to save it. Water the shrubs deeply and slowly enough to allow the water to soak in. Keep the area under the shrubs mulched.

Fertilization is usually not necessary for newly planted junipers. Depending on conditions, fertilizer may be added at a later time.

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Texture of Bark and Branch

The day, cold and gray, seemed better suited for reading by the fire and sipping hot herb tea. But the salmon tufts of maple flowers caught my eye and drew me outdoors to see what other wonders I had barely noticed.

Of all seasons, winter is probably the least considered when planning the garden. Spring is exhuberant, Summer is fecund. Autumn is rich. But winter is introspective and offers us hidden things to ponder. The thoughtful gardener studies the possibilities and presents them artfully.

Bundled up, I ventured into a garden nearby. Low clouds and mist muffled the sounds of the city, and it suited my mood. So I walked slowly and carefully noted the texture of bark and branch. Share this photographic journey with me.
















Acer griseum in blue.

Acer palmatum var. dissectum Tamukeyama (above).

The white bark of Betula papifera (above).

The mosaic of Cornus florida (above).

Netted bark of Liriodendron tulipifera (above).
The tabula rasa that is Fagus grandifolia (below).

Expressionistic Platanus occidentalis (above).
The reptilian texture of Halesia diptera (below).

Thorny Aralia spinosa (above).
Acer palmatum Contorta (below).

Liquidambar styraciflua Corky (above).

Corylus avellana Contorta (below).

A tangle of Hydrangea anomala petiolaris against a tree (above).
Tracery of Schizophragma hydrangoides on a wall (below).

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Behind A Garden Wall In Chelsea

On a rainy November day, we set out from our hotel near the Thames, strolled past Chelsea Wharf and along Cheyne Walk (with pauses at # 48 and # 3, sites famous for interests in pharmaceuticals) to visit the Chelsea Physic Garden. Apart from the sign, there was little about the entrance that hinted at the treasures behind the garden wall. If only those walls could talk.

The Physic Garden was founded in 1673 by the Worshipful Society of Apothecaries to train apprentices in the identification and uses of plants. Occupying fewer than 4 acres, its location near the river provides a unique micro-climate which allows an astonishing number of species to grow protected from harsh winter weather.

A number of environments have been created to support various types of plants. Among them is the oldest rock garden in England that is open to the public. Surprisingly, the garden was not open to all until 1983.

One of the roles of the Chelsea Physic Garden is to educate the public in natural medicine. Those of you who have frequented my eBay store and goGardenNow.com know how important this is to me from reading some of my comments about various plants.

Medicinal species from North America include Anemopsis californica, Aralia racemosa, Arnica angustifolia subsp. angustifolia, Baptisia tinctoria, Chenopodium ambrosioides var. anthelminticum, Cimicifuga (syn. Actaea) americana, Cimicifuga (syn. Actaea) racemosa, Echinacea purpurea, Eupatorium perfoliatum, Geranium maculatum, Gillenia trifoliata, Hamamelis virginiana, Hedeoma pulegioides, Lobelia siphilitica, Monarda fistulosa, Nicotiana tabacum, Panax quinquefolius, Podophyllum peltatum, Sanguinaria canadensis, Scutellaria lateriflora, Veratrum viride.

You'll also find medicinal plants used by aboriginals of New Zealand, Australia, India, China, South Africa, the Mediterranean region and Northern Europe.

One section of the garden features plants used in pharmacology, including some studied for applications in oncology, pulmonary disease, dermatology, cardiology, analgesia and anaesthesia, neurology and rheumatology, psychiatry, ophthalmology, parasitology, and gastroenterology. Plants are not only grown for medical evaluation, but also for food and fiber, perfume and aromatherapy.

A walk through the Chelsea Physic Garden will bring you joy at every turn. There are tranquil vistas, elfin landscapes, plant oddities and flowers in profusion to delight you. Be sure to schedule a visit. Check visiting hours before arrival.

Lucious Home Grown Strawberries

Few fruits are as popular with the home gardener as strawberries. They require very little growing space, and can be grown in almost any garden. The plants make a good ground cover, the flowers are attractive, and the fruits are delicious. They can be grown in containers, raised beds or conventional garden rows.

There are three types of strawberry plants: June-bearing, Ever-bearing, and Day Neutral.

June-bearing plants produce one large harvest and quit. Whether they actually bear during the month of June depends on your climate zone. Lets just say they bear in late spring.

Ever-bearing plants don't actually bear forever, or even for the entire season. The first harvest in late spring is usually followed by a period of rest and another crop in the fall. Sometimes they'll produce a small harvest in the interim.

Day Neutral plants are insensitive to length of day and will keep on flowering as long as temperatures remain above 35 degrees F and below 85 degrees F.

Ever-bearing and Day Neutral plants usually produce smaller fruits than June-bearing plants.

Sometimes varieties are listed as early-season, mid-season, or late-season. What this means for most gardeners is relatively insignificant as the first harvest for all varieties is usually separated by just a few days.

Choose varieties that are known to do well in your area. Your local Cooperative Extension Service should be able to advise you. Purchase virus-free plants produced by commercial growers. Plants obtained from other gardeners may carry diseases that will infect your own patch. Viruses passed from garden to garden will diminish plant vigor and productiveness.

Fifty or so plants are sufficient for a family of four. If you want to freeze or preserve some for later, you'll probably need one hundred plants. One hundred plants will produce about 40 quarts of fruit.

Strawberries are usually treated as biennials, especially if grown in rows, the plants being replaced every other year. If using this method, do not allow the plants to form fruit the first year. Pick off flowers as they form. The plants should be stronger and more productive the second year. Ever-bearing plants are the exception; buds should be removed until mid-summer of the first year. By then the plants should be established well enough to produce a decent fall crop.

Plant in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Gardeners in the Deep South often plant in the fall. The site should be exposed to full sun (at least six hours per day) and be well-drained. If you do not have such a place in your garden, consider planting in containers.

Strawberries need rich, organic, well-drained soil. The planting site should be located in full sun. Cultivate the soil deeply and have the soil tested. If you don't have your own soil test kit, you can take your sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service. The charge is usually very reasonable. Call them first for instructions. The pH should be between 5.5 and 6.5. Amend the soil according to soil test instructions. You'll probably need to incorporate compost or fertilizer. If using synthetic fertilizer, broadcast it in the area a couple of weeks before planting the strawberries.

When preparing the bed, remove all weeds because strawberries do not compete well with them. A thorough job of weed and grass removal will put the gardener well ahead of the competition. Some herbicides are available which are approved for use in the edible garden, but I recommend hand-weeding and mulch for weed suppression.

If planting in garden rows, space plants 12 to 18 inches apart in rows three feet apart. The holes should be deep and wide enough to accommodate the roots without crowding. Planting depth is very important for the health of the plants. Crowns should be set at the soil surface. Plants set too deeply will develop crown rot. Those set too shallowly with the tops of the roots exposed are likely to dry out.

Strawberries send out many runners, producing new plants at the end of each runner. Those that end up in the wrong place can be removed and discarded or replanted elsewhere. More fruit may be produced if runners are not allowed to form. Keep the area free of weeds.

Raised beds are recommended if your site is in full sun but lacks optimal drainage. They also tend to be more productive for longer periods of time. If planting in raised beds, the beds should be no wider than three feet. Wider beds are more difficult to reach into for harvesting and maintenance. To keep a vigorous strawberry bed, you should also remove some of the older plants occasionally. Well-maintained raised beds may produce vigorously for 5 or more years.

If planting in containers, keep in mind that growing conditions remain the same. Strawberry jars and window boxes are very popular because they provide ample drainage and are very attractive. Strawberry jars are usually made of terra cotta with several pockets formed around the sides for holding the plants.

Strawberry plants should receive at least one inch of water per week if planted in rows or raised beds. More water may be necessary if the plants are planted in containers in which the soil may dry faster. Mulching with straw or compost helps to conserve water.

In colder regions, strawberries may also be protected during winter with a layer of straw mulch. Freezing temperatures often cause soil "heaving" which pushes the plants upward. Mulch can help to prevent it. In spring, the mulch may be raked aside before growth begins, but left around the plants to help keep the fruit clean.

Fall fertilizer application is recommended. A soil test will indicate the type of fertilizer and the appropriate application rate.

Strawberries, like other garden plants, may be troubled with various insects and diseases. Remedies, both organic and synthetic, are widely available, but it is not within the scope of this article to review products. Whether using organic or synthetic remedies, always follow label instructions.

There are two simple, effective methods for disease and insect control: crop rotation and companion planting. Crop rotation involves moving the strawberry bed to a new location some distance from the older bed when the plants lose vigor, thus leaving the pests behind. Companion planting involves locating strawberries in close proximity to other plants that repel insects attracted to strawberries. Similarly, certain plants have beneficial effects upon strawberries. Companion planting is especially appropriate for raised-bed gardening. Beans, borage, comfrey, garlic, lettuce, onion and spinach are said to be good companions to strawberries. On the other hand, strawberries do not do well in the presence of cole crops such as broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower.

Discover the pleasure of growing and sharing your own home-grown strawberries.  You'll be delighted.

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A Different Kind Of Daffodil

The Peruvian daffodil (Ismene or Hymenocallis x festalis) is not widely planted or known, though the flower is beautiful and the plant is very easy to grow. Actually, it is not a daffodil at all. The blooms have an exotic appearance, something like a cross between a daffodil and crinum. Fragrant flowers are white or yellow. Glossy, evergreen, strap-like foliage adds a rich appearance to the garden. They have no serious insect or disease problems. Plant height is 18" to 24".

Hymenocallis is cold-hardy in USDA climate zones 8-10, preferring rich, moist but well-drained soil with pH in the range of 6.1 to 7.5. The plants prefer full sun, but light shade is tolerable.

If grown in colder climates, plant outdoors after danger of frost is past. A soil test will indicate any necessary soil amendments. Your local Cooperative Extension Service will send you soil sample to a lab for testing. Fees are nominal. Call their office for instructions.

Prepare the soil by cultivating deeply and incorporating recommended soil amendments. The bulbs should be planted 8" deep and 12" to 15" apart.

Flowers usually appear within two weeks of planting, so Peruvian daffodils are perfect for filling in garden spaces after flowers like tulips and narcissus have finished blooming. Blooms appear before foliage emerges, so the plants seem a bit naked for awhile.

In those areas where they are not cold-hardy, Hemerocallis bulbs should be dug just after first frost and allowed to dry. Roots must be left intact. After excess soil is removed, the bulbs can be stored in a warm, dark area of the home.

Peruvian daffodils are also excellent for container gardening, especially in mixed plantings. If forcing, the bulbs can be brought into flower by bringing them into a warm, well-lit room. After blooming, they can be planted outdoors when weather has warmed.

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Lilies Always Delight

Many plants that are called lilies are not. There are daylilies, canna lilies, calla lilies and water lilies, for example, none of which are true lilies. True lilies are of the genus Lilium, and include many different species and hybrids. Examples of true lilies include "Easter" lilies, Turks-cap lilies, Asiatic lilies, Oriental lilies, Michigan lilies, Carolina lilies, Leopard lilies and Tiger lilies.

Lilies are among the most impressive of flowers and always delight. Their elegant appearance might make one think they are difficult to grow, but they are not. Provided that they will succeed in your region, this guide should help you grow them successfully.

Plant breeders have produced many different varieties of lilies in many different forms, colors and sizes. There are lilies that bloom at different times during the growing season. You'll find many suitable for container gardening, perennial borders and cutting gardens. You need only choose from the vast array of lilies available, which may be the most difficult task of all.

Lilies are grown from true bulbs, as are onions, tulips and daffodils. A bulb is a flattened or compressed stem called a basal plate, usually growing underground, with a growing point on top and surrounded by enlarged, fleshy scales or layers that store food. The layers or scales are the bases of leaves. Onions are bulbs with layers. Lilies are bulbs with scales. Roots grow downward from the basal plate. Root scars or dried roots may persist on the bottom of the basal plate.

Bulbs may or may not be covered with papery structures called tunics. Tunics help to protect bulbs from drying out. The onion is a good example of a bulb with a tunic. Lilies do not have tunics. Bulbs without tunics lack protection from drying out, so special care must be taken to keep lily bulbs moist until they are planted. For this reason, lilies that are grown and traded locally are usually harvested and re-planted in the fall of the year. Gardeners and small nurseries usually do not have the facilities to store the bulbs for long. Bulbs that are produced by large commercial enterprises are usually available and planted in the spring of the year because those businesses do have the means to harvest, ship and store the bulbs properly for longer periods of time.

Lilies perform best within USDA climate zones 4 through 9, but there are exceptions. Some are cold hardy into zone 3; others suffer south of zone 8. There are more variables than can be addressed in this guide, so you'll need to research the species or varieties that interest you to learn whether they will work for you. As a rule, lilies do not succeed in hot, arid climates.

The planting site should be exposed to morning sun and afternoon shade. Soil should be moist but well-drained, high in organic matter, with pH between 5.6 and 7.6. The best way to determine if the pH is within that range and contains the proper nutrients for lilies is to have the soil tested. Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you. You can collect the soil sample yourself. For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis. Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

Prior to receiving your bulbs, cultivate the soil to the depth of one foot and add plenty of well-rotted compost. Remove weeds and debris. Soil test results may recommend other soil amendments. Follow those instructions. The soil amendments you may use depends upon the type of soil you have in need of amending. Common soil amendments include sulphur for lowering pH, limestone for raising pH, sand for helping drainage, clay for slowing drainage, gypsum for breaking up caking clay and compost for enriching the soil. Bone meal is especially good for bulbs. There are others which I don't have the time or space to name. Which you should use depends upon your particular circumstance. If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the bulbs. The site should be ready for planting when your bulbs arrive.

Plant your lily bulbs as soon as you receive them. Do not allow them to dry. They do not have tunics for protection. As a rule, bulbs should be planted at least three times as deep as they are wide. For example, if the bulb is 2" wide, plant it 6" deep. That means the bottom of the hole should be 6" deep. Cover with soil and water deeply. A two to three inch layer of straw mulch will help to preserve moisture, suppress weeds and moderate soil temperature.

During summer, you may fertilize occasionally. Apply 2 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet of garden area every two weeks until flower buds appear. Do not allow synthetic fertilizers to come into contact with the plants. Irrigate if rainfall is inadequate. Soil should be moist but not soggy. When you water, water deeply so that moisture reaches the roots. Weed when necessary, but be careful not to disturb the lily bulbs. Taller lilies may need to be staked. Take care not to harm the roots when inserting stakes into the ground.

Growing lilies in containers is not much different than in the garden. Begin by choosing varieties with a shorter growth habit. Use the finest potting soil; cheap soil will give poor results. The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth. Select containers that will allow you to plant deeply enough and that will accommodate deep root penetration. Plant the bulbs at the proper depth. Because container gardens are easily affected by temperature fluctuations and can dry quickly, take steps to keep the pots cool and properly watered. Grouping pots together, placing them in areas where the pots can be shaded, mulching and companion planting, adding moisture retentive gels can be beneficial. Larger containers are not as quickly affected by temperature and subject to drying.

When the lilies bloom, especially those in the garden, you won't be able to resist cutting some for flower arrangements. They do very nicely as cut flowers. Remove no more than the top third of the stem. Taking more than that may inhibit the plant's ability to store adequate food reserves in the bulb for next year's show. Harvest in the morning or evening when temperatures are lower. Use sharp clippers or shears to make clean cuts. Immediately place the cut ends of the stems in a bucket of cool water.

As the flowers in your garden fade and drop, remove any seed pods that may appear. Allowing seeds to mature weakens the plant. Let the leaves yellow and brown naturally. The dry stem and leaves may be carefully removed in the fall.

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Dahlias For Best Of Show

Every flower has it's following of fans, and the dahlia certainly has it's share. The plant is native to Mexico and South America, and named for Anders Dahl, the Swedish botanist. Dahlias were first introduced to Spain in the 1780s. They are now available in so many colors, sizes and forms that they have some appeal for practically any gardener. I've seen them growing in gardens fabulous and famous, and in gardens beside humble dwellings in mountain hollows. No matter the setting, they lend a grand elegance. They are not only beautiful in the perennial border, they make excellent cut flowers and are often grown for show.

Dahlias are tuberous-root plants that are grown from seed, cuttings or tubers. Most gardeners start with tubers because they are easily obtained and predictable.

Dahlias require exposure to full sun for at least 6 hours per day, and well-drained sandy loam with pH between 6.0 and 7.5. To determine nutrient needs, take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Office for testing. Call first for details. Prepare the soil by cultivating deeply and amending the soil according to soil test recommendations. Amendments should be incorporated into the soil.

Large-flowering dahlias require higher levels of soil nutrients. Fertilizers high in potash such as 5-10-10 or 4-8-12 are often recommended. Applications of composted manure, bone meal and blood meal also improve the soil. Medium-flowering plants require half as much fertilizer as the large ones. Small-flowering dahlias need very little fertilizer since smaller blooms are considered to be more desirable.

Large dahlias will need staking to prevent them from bending or breaking. Begin by driving 6' stakes into the ground at the places where you intend to plant. The stakes should be driven 18" deep and 3' to 4' apart. Then prepare planting holes next to the stakes. If the stakes are spaced 4' apart, you should be able to plant two dahlias per stake. Planting holes should should be about 4" deep unless the soil tends to be dry. If it tends to be dry, the holes should be 6" deep. Place the tubers 4" or more away from the stake. The upper end should be slightly elevated in the bottom of the hole. Sometimes it's difficult to determine which end of the tuber is up. Look for growing points, or "eyes". The end with the "eyes" should be the upper end. Most of the eyes should be facing upward. Cover with soil and water well. Take care that bits of synthetic fertilizer do not come into contact with the tubers.

Watering is necessary if rainfall is not adequate. Dahlias require at least 1" of water per week, perhaps more if weather is hot. Irrigate weekly so that the soil can drain between watering.

Cultivate frequently to prevent the soil from compacting and to remove weeds, being careful to avoid disturbing the plants and stakes. If you prefer not to cultivate, a layer of mulch will help to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Additional fertilizer may be applied around the large-flowering dahlias during mid-summer. Apply 5-10-10, 4-8-12 or another recommended fertilizer at a rate of 1 or 2 tablespoons per plant. Do not allow fertilizer to come into contact with the plants.

As the plants grow, selected branches and buds should be removed to encourage better blooming. Pinching to remove is usually sufficient, provided that pinching is done at the right time. The first pinching should occur when 4 pairs of leaves have developed. At that time, pinch out the very top of the plant to encourage branching along the side. As side branches develop, select the best 4 to 6 branches to remain and remove the others. As those remaining branches develop, remove buds that appear along the sides of them to encourage development of best quality blooms.

Gardeners who grow dahlias for exhibition do even more pinching and disbudding to produce the best flowers possible. They also apply more fertilizers and insecticides, and take steps to protect the flowers from sun exposure to enhance bloom color. It is not within the scope of this article to discuss the various techniques here.

When cutting flowers, use a sharp knife or pruners and cut at a slant. Immediately place the cut ends in a container of cold water. If the flowers begin to wilt, cut the stem once again a couple of inches above the last cut, and place in the water.

The most common pests include aphids, thrips, leaf hoppers and spider mites. Various insecticidal soaps and chemicals can be used to good advantage. Always carefully follow label instructions.

After the first hard frost, cut off the plant stalks close to the ground. After a couple of weeks, the tuberous clumps can be dug and stored over winter. Store them in a very cool and dark place. Care must be taken to prevent them from freezing and drying. Baskets make excellent storage containers because they allow ventilation along the sides. Without adequate ventilation the tubers will rot. Sprinkle with water every week or so to replace lost moisture.

In spring, the tuberous clusters can be divided. Each division may consist of one or two roots with "eyes" at the top. The division can then be planted as before, or shared with others.

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Cannas: Bright and Bold

For a bold color statement in the garden, you can't do better than plant cannas. Cannas are sometimes called "canna lilies", but they are not true lilies. They are closely related to Ginger. Cannas are perennials that grow from rhizomes. A rhizome is a thick stem that grows horizontally at or just below the soil surface. The stem is segmented by nodes. Roots grow from the bottom of the rhizome. Shoots and leaves may appear along the top and sides of the rhizome.

Cannas produce large leaves that resemble banana foliage. Leaf color depends upon variety and ranges from light green to burgundy or even bronze. Colors may be solid, variegated or striped. Impressive clusters of floppy flowers are produced at the top of the plant that range in shades of red, pink, orange, yellow or combinations thereof. Their appearance is very lush. Plant height varies by variety, ranging from 3 to 6 feet or more. Therefore they lend themselves well to all kinds of uses from container gardening in small spaces to mass plantings along highways. A mass planting of cannas is stunning, like big brushstrokes of paint in the landscape.

Though they appear very tropical, cannas can be grown almost anywhere in the United States. They are reliably cold hardy in USDA climate zones 8 through 10, but can be grown as annuals or lifted and stored over winter in cooler zones. Where cannas are not cold hardy, they may be started indoors in containers during the months of February or March and planted outdoors when danger of frost is past. This will give them a head-start so flowers can be enjoyed before mid-summer.

Cannas prefer full sun but will tolerate partial shade with a minimum of four hours of direct sun per day. Rich soil, moist but well-drained, is best with mildly acidic pH ranging from 6.0 to 6.8. They are not too picky, though. I've seen them doing quite well in ditches and at the edges of ponds. The best way to determine if the pH is within range and contains the proper nutrients is to have the soil tested. Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you. You can collect the soil sample yourself. For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis. Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

Cultivate the soil to the depth of 10" and add plenty of well-rotted compost. Remove weeds and debris. Soil test results may recommend other soil amendments. Follow those instructions. The soil amendments you may use depends upon the type of soil you have in need of amending. Common soil amendments include sulphur for lowering pH, limestone for raising pH, sand for helping drainage, clay for slowing drainage, gypsum for breaking up caking clay and compost for enriching the soil. Bone meal is especially good for rhizomes. Which you should use depends upon your particular circumstance. If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the rhizomes.

Plant your cannas in spring after the danger of frost has passed. Planting holes or trenchs should be about 4" deep. Space the rhizomes or plants 12" to 18" apart. Lay them flat in the bottom of the hole or trench. Don't worry about which side is up. Cover with about two inches of soil. Water deeply. If some of the soil washes away, add more. Avoid heavy watering until new shoots grow to 4" height.

During summer, you may fertilize occasionally. Apply 2 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet of garden area every two weeks until flower buds appear. Do not allow synthetic fertilizers to come into contact with the plants. Irrigate if rainfall is inadequate. About one inch of water per week should be sufficient. When you water, do so deeply in order that moisture will reach the roots. Weed when necessary. A light mulch of straw will help to preserve moisture and suppress weeds. Other than that, very little maintenance is needed. Though it is not necessary to remove spent flowers, doing so will prevent seed from forming and may encourage a longer bloom period. Occasional application of a recommended insecticide will keep away leaf-eating insects such as Japanese beetles, though the extent of their damage is usually minimal and cosmetic. Call your Cooperative Agricultural Extension Office for insecticide recommendations. Always, follow label instructions.

Shorter growing cannas are wonderful in container gardens. Use the finest potting soil; cheap soil will give poor results. The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth. Select containers that will allow you to include companion plants, if desired. Larger containers will require less frequent watering. The addition of water retentive gel can be beneficial. Plant the rhizomes at the proper depth.

If yours is a climate where cannas will not survive the winter, you can dig and store them for planting next year. At the end of the season following the first hard frost, lift them, cut off stems and leaves and wash the rhizomes. Large ones may be divided with each piece having three or four "eyes." "Eyes" are growing points resembling buds where future growth will appear. Pack in peat moss and store in boxes or bags with some ventilation. Plastic bags with ventilation holes like potatoes come in will do nicely. Store in a dark place where the temperature can be maintained between 45 and 55 degrees F. Moisture should not collect in the storage container. On the other hand, the rhizomes should not be allowed to dry out.

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Those Elegant Callas

For sheer elegance, I believe callas are unsurpassed. Their simple, exotic shape makes them favorites of flower arrangers. But they are so easy to grow you don't have to be a florist to enjoy them.

Callas (Zantedeschia spp.), sometimes called "calla lilies", are not true lilies but are aroids, members of the Araceae family along with anthurium, pothos, monstera, philodendron, caladium and jack-in-the-pulpit. Many aroids are native to the tropics. Callas are native to southern Africa. They are cold-hardy in the United States from USDA climate zone 8 through 11. Those who live in cooler regions can grow them successfully in container gardens, lifting and storing the rhizomes over winter.

Those structures often referred to as flowers are not actually flowers at all, but are modified leaves called spathes. The actual flowers are much smaller and are surrounded by the spathes. Callas are available in a wide range of colors. The glossy green foliage is very attractive and may be used in floral arrangements along with the spathes.

Callas are grown from rhizomes. A rhizome is a thick stem that grows horizontally at or just below the soil surface. The stem is segmented by nodes. Roots grow from the bottom of the rhizome. Shoots and leaves may appear along the top and sides of the rhizome.

If planting in the garden, select a site in full sun with richly organic, moist but well-drained soil. Some callas do well in wet, boggy soils, but never in standing water. Soil pH should be between 6.0 to 6.5. The best way to determine if the pH is within that range and contains the proper nutrients for callas is to have the soil tested. Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you. You can collect the soil sample yourself. For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis. Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

Prior to receiving your rhizomes, cultivate the soil to the depth of one foot if the site is not boggy and add plenty of well-rotted compost. Remove weeds. Soil test results may recommend other soil amendments. Follow those instructions. The soil amendments you may use depends upon the type of soil you are in need of amending. Common soil amendments include sulfur for lowering pH, limestone for raising pH, sand for helping drainage, clay for slowing drainage, gypsum for breaking up caking clay and compost for enriching the soil. Bone meal is especially good for calla rhizomes. Which you should use depends upon your particular circumstance. If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the bulbs. The site should be ready for planting when your callas arrive.

Bear in mind that all parts of the plant are toxic if eaten and can cause skin irritations and/or allergic reactions in sensitive persons. If you believe you might be susceptible, wear gloves when handling any part of the plant.

Calla rhizomes can be planted in fall or early winter in warm climate zones, or in spring. If planting in spring, do so when the soil has warmed and danger of severe frost is past. They should be planted shallowly with the tops exposed, similar to German iris. To determine which is the top side, hold the rhizome horizontally and look for small buds or growing points. These growing points are called "eyes." They resemble the eyes on potatoes. The area with the most eyes is the top side. In a hole or trench, lay the rhizomes horizontally with the eyes looking upward. Space them at approximately twelve to eighteen inches apart. Press the soil around them leaving a portion of the rhizome exposed. Water well. If some of the soil washes away, replace it. With warm soil, roots and shoots should begin to form soon. A light layer of straw mulch will help to preserve moisture and suppress weeds.

During summer, you may fertilize occasionally. Apply 2 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet of garden area every two weeks until spathes appear. Do not allow synthetic fertilizers to come into contact with the plants. Irrigate if rainfall is inadequate. Soil should be constantly moist (not soggy) and never allowed to dry. Weed when necessary, but be careful not to disturb the rhizomes. Occasional application of a recommended insecticide will keep leaf-eating insects away, though the extent of their damage is usually minimal and cosmetic. Call your Cooperative Agricultural Extension Office for insecticide recommendations. Always, follow label instructions.

Growing callas in containers is not much different than in the garden. Use the finest potting soil; cheap soil will give poor results. The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth. Select containers that will accommodate the calla rhizomes and any other suitable companion plants. All companion plants should have similar soil and moisture requirements. Because container gardens can dry quickly, take steps to keep the pots properly watered. Adding moisture retentive gel to the soil can be beneficial. Larger containers are not as susceptible to drying. Tipping over can also be a problem with small containers.

When the spathes appear, you can cut all you want for flower arrangements. Harvest in the morning or evening when temperatures are lower. Use sharp clippers or shears to make clean cuts. Immediately place the cut ends of the stems in a bucket of cool water. The cut "flowers" are long-lasting.

When bloom time is over, let the foliage remain to build reserves in the rhizomes for the next growing season. Continue to provide water sufficient to maintain moist soil. You may remove the foliage when it has turned yellow.

If you live in a climate zone where callas are not cold hardy, you may dig and store them until the next growing season. After digging them, remove foliage, wash the rhizomes and let them dry in the shade. Do not let them become shrivelled. Pack in peat moss and store in boxes or bags with some ventilation. Plastic bags with ventilation holes like potatoes come in will do nicely. Store in a dark place where the temperature can be maintained between 45 and 55 degrees F. Moisture should not collect in the storage container. Neither should the rhizomes be allowed to dry out.

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Glorious Gladiolus

Gladiolus are glorious because they are so beautiful and very, very easy to grow.  By following these steps, you may enjoy fresh flowers throughout the summer.

"Glads", as they are sometimes called, are native to Africa, Asia and southern Europe. Though cold hardy from USDA climate zone 7 through 11, they can be grown practically anywhere in the United States. In northern zones, they can be grown as inexpensive summer annuals. In southern zones, they can come back year after year.

They make perfect garden accents. The striking blooms and sword-like foliage make a bold statement in the garden. They're great for cut flower arrangements and for gifts. Just think how good you'll feel carrying an armload of your own home-grown glads to someone you love. Or plant loads of them and invite your friends to pick their own!

Gladiolus prefer full sun, at least six hours per day. Average garden soil with pH between 5.5 and 8.5 is fine. This can be determined by taking a soil sample to your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service for testing. Call them first for instructions. They will charge a nominal fee.

The site should be moist but well-drained. Irrigation may be necessary if rainfall is insufficient. Glads should receive one inch of water per week. If they do not receive enough water, the flower spikes will grow crooked. Take care not to over-water.

You may plant them in rows, raised beds, or intersperse them among other plants in your flower garden. Cultivate the soil to a depth of twelve inches and amend it according to soil test recommendations. Remove weeds and debris during cultivation. It is usually a good idea to incorporate superphosphate into the soil before planting at the rate of two pounds per 50 feet of row. If superphosphate is not available, application of 5-10-5 fertilizer at the same rate is recommended.

The corms should not come into contact with synthetic fertilizer. If you use it, you can avoid burning the corms by waiting a week or two before planting them. Or you can place the fertilizer in the bottom of the planting row and cover with an inch or two of topsoil before planting the glads.

Plant four to six inches deep and six inches apart in spring when the weather and soil has warmed. Cover with soil and water well. An application of mulch can suppress weeds and help to retain moisture.

Glads benefit from generous feeding. A second application of 5-10-5 fertilizer may be applied as a side dressing at the rate of two pounds per 50 feet of row when the emerging bloom spike can be felt at the base of the foliage. Again, the fertilizer should not come into contact with the plants. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers. Too much fertilization can encourage bulb diseases.

Gladiolus differ somewhat by variety and corm size as to how long it takes between planting and blooming. Larger corms bloom sooner. The average time span is between 65 and 95 days. If you plant a mix of varieties, you may enjoy new flowers until mid-summer. Stagger planting them every couple of weeks and you can have an abundance of blooms until late summer.

If cultivation is needed during the growing season to control weeds, take care to cultivate only at the soil surface. Deep cultivation can easily damage the feeder roots.

Various diseases and pests, especially thrips, can afflict gladiolus. It's best to avoid them in the beginning by purchasing commercially produced bulbs. These will have been treated during harvest and processing for sale. Weeding and maintaining a clean garden also helps to prevent problems. If problems do occur, consult with the staff at your local Cooperative Extension Service for recommendations.

Since the flower spikes grow rather tall, they may require staking. The stems are often not strong enough to support the weight of flowers, especially if they are exposed to wind.

You won't be able to resist cutting some for flower arrangements. Choose stems with no more than three flowers in bloom. For best results, cut the stems in the early morning or late evening when temperatures are cooler. Leave a few leaves on each plant so the corms will remain strong. Most growers allow four leaves to remain on the corm. Use a sharp knife or clippers making a clean cut. Plunge the lower ends of the stems immediately in a bucket of cool water.

Allow the leaves remaining on the plants to dry naturally. This will allow them to store plenty of nutrients in the corms for next year's growth. Before frost when the tops have turned brown, trim them back to about four inches.

Many gardeners who live in warmer areas just leave them in the ground over winter and they come back year after year. Though this may be acceptable for some, the practice may encourage those thrips, other insects and diseases that should be avoided. So it is best to dig the corms and store in a cool, dry place at temperature around 40 degrees F. Digging and storage is necessary for growers in colder regions where glads are not hardy.

Begin digging by loosening the soil on both sides of the row. Lift the corms gently. Remove the foliage, leaving very little if any at the tops. Spread the corms in a dry location exposed to full sun for a day, then remove them to an airy location out of the sun to dry further. You may spread them on layers of newspaper. Some gardeners construct tables or trays with mesh bottoms for drying. Such structures can serve to dry other bulbs and corms after harvest. Stir the corms to allow all sides to dry, especially during damp weather. You may even expose them to an electric fan. Dried soil should fall away during the process. Remaining soil should be brushed off before final storage. During cleaning, the corms may be inspected. Those that are damaged or diseased should be discarded.

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It's So Easy To Grow Asparagus

I love asparagus grilled, steamed, sauteed, pureed, entreed or as a side, in salads, sandwiches, omelets. . .; well, you get the picture. But I hate paying high prices. Fortunately, this delicious vegetable can be grown in just about any area of the country, from USDA Climate zone 3 to 10.

Because asparagus is a perennial, it is often grown in the vegetable garden in a dedicated space where it can be left alone. But the plant is so beautiful, it can also be planted with other ornamental perennials. The lovely fern-like foliage is delicate and green in the summer and turns golden yellow in the fall. The main thing to remember is that the roots should be left undisturbed for the next few decades so your asparagus will prosper. Therefore, choose a permanent site.

Asparagus prefers full sun and rich soil that is well-drained with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Contact your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service for instructions on taking soil samples. For a nominal fee they will have it tested for you and provide you with helpful results. Make sure you specify the crop because asparagus require good levels of potassium and phosphorus in the soil. To encourage production, take a soil sample every couple of years to make sure the pH and nutrient levels are correct.

Prepare the soil according to the soil test recommendations before you receive your asparagus so you can plant as soon as possible upon receiving them. When the soil temperature has reached 50 degrees F, prepare furrows about 15 inches wide, 8 inches deep and 4 feet apart, removing weeds and debris. Incorporate lots of composted organic matter, cultivating deeply. It wouldn't hurt to sprinkle wood ashes and bone meal to the furrow. If you use synthetic fertilizer, incorporate it into the soil a couple of weeks before planting. Pack the enriched soil in the bottom of the trench and add a thin layer of topsoil.

Soak the roots in a bucket of water for a few minutes to rehydrate them. Place them in the trench 6 to 8 inches below the top of the furrow, crown up, about 12 inches apart. Add a couple of inches of topsoil to cover the roots. The plant crown should be just at the soil surface. Water deeply. Add more soil, if necessary. As the new shoots begin to grow, you should gradually add more topsoil around the shoots. Keep in mind that asparagus does not appreciate standing water, so soil may eventually be mounded around the plants to aid drainage.

Regular weeding is very important, but be careful not to disturb the crowns. Asparagus is quite drought tolerant, but adequate water is essential during plant establishment for the first two years. About 1 inch of water per week during the growing season should be sufficient.

Resist the urge to harvest your asparagus spears the first year. The plants must be well-established in order to provide abundant crops later. If you must, you may harvest a few spears the second year, but it would be best to wait. The third year you will be rewarded for your patience when you may harvest a few spears for about a month during the spring.

Productivity is enhanced by spreading a top-dressing of well-composted manure in the fall. In early spring before growth begins, cultivate the soil lightly. This will allow the soil to dry and warm a bit, encouraging earlier emergence. The earliest shoots are most tender. Harvesting ceases when the shoots begin to contain tough fibers. Always remember, even when your garden is well-established that you must leave enough spears to mature and strengthen your planting.

The asparagus beetle is a common pest in some parts of the country, feeding on the plants during the summer. Rotenone and malathion are commonly used to control them. If you choose to use chemicals, whether synthetic or organic, carefully follow label instructions. Companion planting is a popular technique among gardeners for repelling harmful insects. It is said that planting marigolds nearby helps to repel the beetles. Furthermore, asparagus seems to grow better in the presence of basil, nasturtiums, parsley and tomatoes. Asparagus does not do so well with mint and onions close by.

Pest populations can also be reduced by eliminating their hiding places. Remove and destroy top growth of asparagus when it turns brown to avoid attracting harmful insects. Weeding is equally important. 

At maturity, 100 feet of row may produce over 75 pounds of shoots.  When harvesting asparagus, cut the shoots at soil surface to avoid damaging those still below the surface.  The best time to harvest is in early morning so that the shoots are not exposed to heat.  Place the cut ends in a container of cool water to avoid wilting.

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Come Feed The Birds

According to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, there are now over 51.3 million bird-watchers in the United States, and the number continues to grow. A birder is defined as an individual who "must have either taken a trip a mile or more from home for the primary purpose of observing birds and/or closely observed or tried to identify birds around the home." The vast majority do so at home. And why not? It is so easy and inexpensive to do.

If you are not yet a birder, you should consider this marvelous educational hobby. You'll delight in watching these feathered creatures, and as your knowledge increases so will your sense of satisfaction. If you are a bird-watcher, introduce someone else to the pleasure.

When our children were very young, we positioned a bird bath and feeders in view of a special window so they could watch and learn. And when our parents aged, we provided them with bird feeders so they could watch from their favorite chairs. Feeding the birds is a kindness for birds and people alike.

To feed the widest variety of birds, different types of bird feeders and foods should be used.

Platform and tray feeders are flat structures with short walls attached to the rims to prevent seed from falling off. The feeders may be set on the ground, mounted on poles or hung. Some are designed to be mounted beneath other types of feeders to catch spilled seed.

These can present a wide variety of seeds. Filled with millet, platform and tray feeders attract blackbirds, cowbirds, doves, juncos, chipping sparrows, house sparrows, tree sparrows, white-crowned sparrows and white-throated sparrows.

If corn is used, they will attract doves, grackels, house sparrows, jays, juncos, starlings and white-throated sparrows. If set on or near the ground, they will also attract bobwhite quail and ring-necked pheasants.

If peanuts are used, platform and tray feeders will attract cardinals, chickadees, doves, grackles, house finches, jays, juncos, sparrows, starlings and titmice.

Hopper feeders are like boxes with side panels usually of glass or acrylic. The panels are positioned with narrow openings at the base so that small amounts of seed can empty into a feed trough or tray. Of course, there are different sizes available for dispensing small seeds or peanuts.

Metal tube feeders are shaped like round metal cages. Some have perforated sides while others have wire mesh tubes, allowing different sizes of seed to be used. The smallest mesh is appropriate for dispensing Nyjer thistle seed. Those with larger perforations may dispense peanuts. The mesh or perforations allow birds to cling to the tube and eat from the sides. Trays may be attached to catch spilled seed.

The more common tube feeders have solid tubes, often of acrylic, with ports at the base for dispensing seed. Perches for the birds to mount upon are often attached. Trays may also be attached to these to save dropped seed.

Black oil sunflower seeds work very well in tube feeders, and there is very little waste. These attract chickadees, goldfinches, redpolls, nuthatches, pine siskins, titmice and woodpeckers. Add a tray to the bottom of the feeder and you'll also attract cardinals, crossbills, jays, purple finches and sparrows.

A tube feeder and tray with peanuts will attract cardinals, chickadees, doves, grackles, house finches and sparrows, jays, juncos starlings and titmice. Hanging peanut feeders draw chickadees, titmice and woodpeckers.

Nyjer seed feeders draw chickadees, doves, dark-eyed juncos, goldfinches, pine siskins, purple finches, redpolls and various sparrows.

Suet feeders come in many forms, but the most common basic element is the wire to hold a suet cake. Suet is a fat-based product that may also contain seed, peanut butter or insects. The cage is hinged and has a simple latch for locking. The simplest are hung or attached to the sides of other feeders. However, ingenious designers have come up with various improvements. The upside down suet cage is covered with a small roof to protect the cake from rain. Clinging birds hold on to the bottom of the structure and feed. Tail prop suet feeders are designed with woodpeckers in mind. Rather than in a square cake form, the suet can be presented in a log held in place by a round wire holder.

Suet feeders will bring cardinals, chickadees, creepers, kinglets, nuthatches, starlings, thrashers, woodpeckers and wrens. Suet with peanut butter draws bluebirds, cardinals, goldfinches, jays, juncos, kinglets, starlings, thrushes, woodpeckers and wrens.

There is even a suet feeder designed to simulate a tree trunk. Thin cakes consisting of suet and peanut butter are sandwiched between two slabs. This one is particularly attractive to woodpeckers.

Some birds have a sweet,...uh..., beak, so certain feeders are appropriately designed to hold slices of fruit, dollops of jelly or nectar. Bluebirds, cardinals, cedar waxwings, yellow-breasted chats, jays, mockingbirds, orioles, starlings, tanagers, thrashers, thrushes and woodpeckers enjoy fruit. We are all familiar with hummingburd nectar feeders. But nectar made more readily available is appreciated by cardinals, finches, orioles, tanagers, thrushes and woodpeckers.

Bluebirds like small insects like mealworms. Bluebird feeders are designed to hold the mealworms and to provide a protected environment for the birds as they dine.

Placement of your bird feeder is nearly as important as what you put in it. It should be situated where it is easy to view and convenient to fill.

The feeder should be near to trees and shrubs for shelter where they may assess the situation and wait until it is their turn to feed. Evergreens are perfect, providing protection from weather and a hiding place from predators. About 12 or 15 feet distance should be good. A combination of shrubs and trees can provide shelter for a greater number of species.

Hummingbird feeders should be protected from the wind in order to avoid spilling nectar. A shady place will keep the nectar relatively cool.

Birds may not visit your feeder right away. Sometimes it takes awhile for the news to get around. Be patient. But if the birds still don't come, reconsider whether the setting is hospitable.

Though they never ask a crumb from you, come feed the birds. You'll be glad that you do.

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Behind A Garden Wall in El Paso

What grows behind that garden wall? Follow us and we'll show you.

The landscape around El Paso, TX is stark and dry, seemingly inhospitable to all but the hardiest of plants. To think that one could grow a lush garden there seems impossible. But this lovely oasis welcomes you with its tropical appearance. See what this resourceful gardener has done as you take this photographic tour.

"It is a challenge to figure out what to plant but so much fun" she told me.

The bold entrance beckons us with colorful enticements and a hint of what grows beyond the garden door. Creeping fig (Ficus pumila) adorns the wall. Tropical palms lend the romance of desert oases while colorful Margarita Sweet Potato vines (Ipomea batatas) spill out of terra cotta and blue glazed planters.

Lovely shades of pink and white work well with the colors of the house and surrounding hills. But you'll also find other colors in flower and foliage.  A partial list of plants in this wonderful sanctuary includes:

Persian Buttercup (Ranunculus asiaticus), Mont Blanc Asiatic Lily (Lilium x 'Mont Blanc'), Red Carpet Border Lily (Lilium x 'Red Carpet'), Carolina Jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens), Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia), Upright Elephant Ear (Alocasia macrorrhizos), Black Stem Elephant Ear (Colocasia esculenta 'Fontanesii'), Wild Taro (Colocasia esculenta), Bat-Wing Passion Flower (Passiflora coriacea), Blue Passion Flower (Passiflora caerulea), Creeping Red Verbena (Verbena peruviana), Echinacea 'Magnus', Echinacea 'Sunset', Little Business Daylily, Chicago Apache Daylily, Aster x 'Monch', Pink Ice Plant (Delosperma cooperi), Blood Lily (Haemanthus coccineus), Dahlia x 'Fleurel', Dahlia x 'Apache', Dahlia x 'Golden Emblem', Dahlia x 'Rosella', Dahlia x 'Red Majorette', Dahlia x 'Kennemerland', Dahlia x 'Ace Summer Sunset', Caladium 'Aaron', Caladium 'Postman Joyner', Golden Groundsel (Ligularia dentata 'Desdemona'), Adam's Needle (Yucca filamentosa) and Red Hot Poker (Kniphofia uvaria).