Friday, September 27, 2013

Washington Oaks Gardens State Park, Florida



In 1936, title to a tract of land known now as Washington Oaks Gardens, a Florida State Park, was received by Louise Powis Clark (1887-1965), a widow with three children. It was to become a winter home for her and her third husband, Owen D. Young (1874-1962), also recently widowed. Both were from New York. Louise owned a lingerie company in the Philippines. Owen had been a lawyer, diplomat, and chairman of the boards of General Electric Company and RCA. But there's very little about Washington Oaks that immediately suggests the owners' wealth.

The area had been home to diverse residents, from aboriginal people to Spanish and English Colonists. In 1818, Jose Mariano Hernandez acquired the tract as an addition to his plantation, Mala Compra (Bad Purchase), to the south. Since it overlooked the Matanzas River, he called it Bella Vista (Beautiful View).

Eventually it passed to heirs, one being George L. Washington. Members of the family lived on “The Washington Place” occasionally from the 1870s to 1890s. The Washington lodge no longer exists.

In 1923, the property was sold to developers to be subdivided into residential lots known as Hernandez Estates. But the financial crash of the ‘20s and the Depression of the ‘30s put an end to that dream.

Louise and Owen discovered the property along old highway A1A in 1935 while visiting her mother in St. Augustine, FL. The developers had failed to pay taxes on some parcels, land values were way down, and the romantic couple from up North had money to spend. Louise acquired title in 1936. She and Owen were married the following year.

Rather than rename the place, they called it “Washington Oaks.” Perhaps they liked the sound of it, or named it so because George L. slept there.

Being a designer with interests in weaving and pottery, Louise went to work designing the house and gardens with an artistic eye. Their home was modest, and took full advantage of the view of the river. She combined native and exotic plants in the garden, and included oriental motifs.

Owen Young was a businessman who took an interest in horticulture, so he planted a citrus grove. Naturally, he set up a fruit stand beside old A1A where he occasionally tended and sold citrus to passersby.

My parents often took us boys to Florida in those days, sometimes traveling that scenic highway. I like to imagine we passed the old man hawking oranges by the road, not realizing he was the co-founder of RCA, NBC, and a consultant to presidents.

The Youngs eventually purchased land across the road, allowing them beach access. Owen built an office on that side so he’d have a quiet place to do business and study.  He built a nice home there for the caretaker, too.

Traffic increased, and road noise began to disturb the Young’s idyll, so they prevailed to have A1A relocated closer to the beach. A quiet, scenic portion of the old road still exists, reminding visitors of those days long gone.

Follow me to see what grows beyond the garden wall by clicking on the links below.

Travelers might have barely noticed Washington Oaks simple coquina gates. Coquina stone is sedimentary rock consisting of coquina shells and sand. It was often used as a building material.

The driveway at Washington Oaks opens to a fine view of the comfortable house and the Matanzas River beyond.

Much of the Young’s home looks as it did in the 1950s and '60s. A vintage television displays recorded episodes of old shows.

The front door of a home on the river always faces the river. Remember that.



Roses ‘Sweet Surrender’, ‘Gold Medal’ and ‘Pope John Paul II’ in the formal rose garden.

Visitors can rest on the garden bench beside the pond.


Curcuma provides pops of color in the tropical garden.

A Bird-Of-Paradise (Strelitzia reginae) flower hides among the foliage.

A sculpture from Asia and koi reflect the Young’s affection for oriental motifs.

In The Compleat Angler, Izaak Walton observed “the Carp is the Queen of Rivers: a stately, a good, and a very subtil fish”. Koi are glorified carp. For bait, Walton instructed, “Take the flesh of a Rabbet or Cat cut small, and Bean-flowre;…and then mix these together, and put to them either Sugar, or Honey, …beat together in a Mortar, …and then make it into a ball, or two, or three…” Since I had none of those things, nor a fishing license, I simply watched them laze about.


A bridge not too far with Clerodendrum speciosum beside.

Ponderosa lemons (Citrus limon) in the citrus grove.

“Now the serpent was more subtle than any other wild creature that the Lord God had made.” (Genesis 3)


Owen Young’s office now houses the gift shop at Washington Oaks Gardens State Park, FL.



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Tuesday, September 24, 2013

How To Plant Container Gardens With Spring-Flowering Bulbs

Spring-flowering container gardens


I bet every spring you see container gardens brimming with colorful flowers like tulips, narcissus and muscari, and wish you had thought ahead to plant some yourself. If you haven't yet, do it now when the selection of fall bulbs is good, and the time to plant is upon us. Here are tips about how to plant container gardens with spring-flowering bulbs.

Container gardens add lots of color to the spring garden, creating focal points in the landscape. Because they're portable, they can be placed in the right spots to welcome visitors, brighten seating areas, and add drama to borders.

Any fall bulb is good for container gardens, but your choice may depend on personal preference, bloom time, ease of care, and climate zone. Personal preference is entirely up to you. Some gardeners remember their favorites from childhood, and like re-living those days. Others get excited about the newest plant cultivars. Some gardeners choose color themes they like best, or try to emulate gardens they've enjoyed while traveling. No matter the reason, there are hundreds of species and cultivars to satisfy any preference.

Bloom time varies, and that's a good thing. Some, like crocuses and winter aconite, peep from under melting snow. Others, such as various narcissus and tulip cultivars, bloom early, mid-season or late. With a little planning, container gardens can be planted to provide delightful color all spring. Choose bulbs with varying bloom times for succession of color. When some containers are spent, others can begin their show.

Apart from proper watering and weeding, ease of care can be as simple as emptying out spent bulbs and throwing them away. Many bulbs, though, can be transplanted in the garden, naturalized in the lawn, border or shade garden.

Some bulbs thrive in many parts of the country, but may require special treatment to bloom in warmer regions. This is where climate zone influences your decisions. Tulips, for example, do not receive enough chilling in southern zones, so must be chilled artificially before planting. Because they will not thrive when transplanted in warm climate gardens, they are best treated as annuals and thrown away after blooming. (I know it might hurt your feelings, but you'll get over it.) On the other hand, if you plan to perennialize your bulbs in the garden, you must choose those that will succeed in your zone.

Fall planting time may vary depending on the climate zone, but is best done before first frost. It's very important that the bulbs be planted while firm and fresh. Those left sitting about until the end of the season may rot before they go in the ground. By the way, if you must store them awhile, keep them in a cool, dark place. If you must chill them artificially in the refrigerator before planting (tulips and hyacinths, for example), do not chill them in the presence of fruit. Ripening fruit gives off ethylene that will gas your bulbs and inhibit flowering.

Planting container with spring-flowering bulbsChoose durable containers that will not split or crack in colder regions. Stone, glazed stoneware, concrete, cast iron, fiberglass and plastic will do. Southern gardeners may use terracotta. Containers must also provide good drainage. They need not be large to hold lots of bulbs for bulbs can be planted closer in containers than in the ground. Container depth, on the other hand, depends on your bulbs' requirements. They should be deep enough to allow for the roots to grow downward with space left over. If roots grow to the bottom of the pot, the bulbs will probably be forced upward and out of the mix.

If planting large bulbs such as some daffodils, figure about 1 inch of pot diameter per bulb. That would be a 24-inch diameter pot for 24 bulbs. Twice as many smaller bulbs such as tulips and jonquils will fit in the 24-inch pot, and you might stuff 4 times as many minor bulbs in it. If planting bulbs of different types in the same container, choose those that bloom at the same time.

Use a high-quality, sphagnum-based potting mix. Better mixes will also contain vermiculite or perlite, and some fertilizer. You may also make your own or amend commercial types. Composted chicken manure, available at garden centers, is a popular additive. Do not use native soil straight out of your garden because it will lack necessary drainage qualities for container gardens.

Plant your bulbs the same depth in the container as you would in the ground: 1-1/2 to 2 times as deep as the bulb diameter. Measure planting depth from the bottom of the hole. Another way to plant correctly is to measure from 1/2 inch below the pot rim downward to the proper depth. Mark the spot. Put enough potting mix in the container to the correct planting level, place bulbs upright on the mix, then add more mix to 1/2 inch below the rim.

If planting bulbs of different sizes, you'll place them at different depths. Following the same procedure, place the large bulbs on the lowest level, add planting mix to the proper level for the smaller bulbs, place them on the surface, and fill the container to 1/2 inch below the rim.

Water the container thoroughly after planting, then periodically thereafter as needed. Bulbs should never sit in soggy soil. You'd think that they would get enough moisture with winter rains and snow, but it's not always the case. Check the moisture level occasionally. Smaller containers, and terracotta ones, will dry quicker than others.

Face it, planted bulb containers aren't very attractive during the winter. It's best to store them out of sight. There's also the possibility that extreme cold may damage the bulbs for those in containers are more exposed than bulbs in the ground. I suggest grouping them together, burying them in sawdust, or surrounding them with bales of straw. Put your containers on display in the spring when the foliage or flowers are starting to emerge.

After the flowers are gone, make notes and begin planning your bulb purchases. Fall planting time will arrive before you know it.

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Monday, September 23, 2013

Must-Have Plants: Lady Fern

Lady Fern
Must-have plants are among the best plants for appropriate garden situations. When you need great garden plants for ground cover, naturalizing, wildflower gardens, perennial borders, butterfly gardens, hummingbird gardens, herb gardens, heritage gardens, cutting gardens, woodland gardens, shade gardens, bulb gardens, container gardens, bog gardens, water gardens, rain gardens or xeriscaping, look for the best among our must-have plants.

Name(s): Athyrium filix-femina, Aspidium angustum, Athyrium angustum, Polypodium filix-femina, Lady Fern

Flower Color: None

Bloom Time: None

Foliage: Herbaceous, light green to medium green.

Height/Spread: 12 inches to 36 inches x 12 inches to 30 inches.

Climate Zones: 4, 5, 6, 7, 8

Sun Exposure: Partial shade to full shade.

Soil Condition: Moist to well-drained, loamy, pH 6.1 to 7.5

Features: Delicate foliage, deer resistant, insect resistant, disease resistant.

Uses: Massed planting, naturalizing, fern collections, native plant collections, woodland gardens, shade gardens and borders.

Return to Ferns at goGardenNow.com.

Amaryllis leaves are dying after I transplanted them.

Dead leaves on transplanted hippeastrum.

Q. Hey. I asked you back in June if I could move my amaryllis in summer even though the foliage never died back. You said I could. Now the foliage is dying back. Will the bulbs die, too? I'm sending you a picture.

A. Judging from your photo, the bulbs are in good health. Notice the firm shoulder. It's not unusual for the foliage to die back. In fact, it's normal. I expect that your plants will bloom nicely next season. The ones that have defoliated may even bloom earlier.

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Monday, September 16, 2013

I would like to attract more birds to my garden. What do you recommend?

Birds Choice SNFT 200 Fly-Through Feeder made from recycled poly

Q. I would like to attract more birds to my garden. Will bird feeders and a bird bath help? What to you recommend?

A. There are four basic elements of wildlife habitat: Food, water, shelter and cover. Bird feeders and bird baths only provide food and water. I recommend you offer as much diversity as possible to provide all the elements.

Species are attracted to different kinds of food. Consider offering nyjer seed, black oil sunflower, mixed seed blends, cracked corn, peanuts, suet, mealworms and nectar.

Water is necessary for bathing and drinking. A clean bird bath will provide both for most species, but hummingbirds like to fly through water spray. Attach a misting device near your bird bath, or attach it to a sturdy post or shrub near your hummingbird feeders.

Bird houses provide shelter, but mostly for nesting birds. Birds doen't usually set up permanent residence in them. Evergreen shrubs and trees are welcome additions to any wildlife habitat because they provide protection from the elements and roosting places during the night.

The need for cover is slightly different from the need for shelter for cover provides protection from predators. Evergreen shrubs and trees provide both, but smaller shrubs, grasses, perennials and vines give birds places to hide. I see birds outside my office window darting from shrubs and trees to the feeders and back again all day long. When visiting the feeders, the birds are more exposed. If I didn't provide safe places to hide, I'm sure I'd have fewer birds at my feeders.

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Wednesday, September 11, 2013

The Graceful Lady Fern

Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina)
I bring nae rose, or lily fair,
To twine amang thy gowden hair,
Nor fragrant flower, nor scented wreath,
To mingle wi' thy balmy breat;
    But frae the green banks o' the burn
    I bring thy mate the Lady Fern.

The Lady Fern, whase slender stalk
Alane can peer thy genty mak,
The Lady Fern, whase gracefu' air,
Wit' thin alane can e'er compare,
    O whaur may Nature meekness learn?
    Frae thee an' frae the Lady Fern.

The broom adorns, an' crowns the brae,
The whin o'ertaps the rocklet grey;
The heath blooms brichtest on the hill,
An' a' wad fain climb heigher still;
    While in the shade thou lo'est to dern
    Beside thy mate the Lady Fern.


The Lady Fern, James Ballantine (1806-1877)

Lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina, pronounced "uh-THEE-ree-um FY-licks fem-in-uh") makes some wax poetic. It's also known as Aspidium angustum, Athyrium angustum and Polypodium filix-femina. Lady fern is one of the world's most graceful ferns, found mostly in the Northern hemisphere. In North America, it is found in every state and province.

Except during dormancy when it's practically invisible, lady fern is a visual delight. Delicate, light green fronds unfurl in early spring when deciduous trees are just beginning to sprout foliage. Sunlight through the canopy makes lady fern sparkle. As the growing season progresses, fronds turn to medium green.

Mature height ranges from 12 inches to 36 inches, spreading from 12 inches to 30 inches. Lady fern is deer, insect and disease resistant, making it perfect for the low-maintenance shade garden. Gardeners in USDA climate zones 4 to 8 can use them in massed plantings, naturalize them in woodland gardens or any shady location. It seems like every gardener has her favorite collection. Fern and native plant collectors will adore lady ferns because they're so beautiful and easy to grow.

Plant lady fern in partial to full shade in moist, well-drained, loamy soil. pH may range from 6.1 to 7.5.  I recommend taking a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Office for testing. Follow their recommendations, preparing the soil before purchasing your ferns. Space them 18 inches to 24 inches apart. Take care not to over-water.

Lady fern is ideal for planting around your quiet place in the woodland and beside shady paths. Suitable companions include hosta, astilbe, Jack-in-the-pulpit, trillium, bloodroot, rhododendron, redbud, fawn lily and bluebells.

Return to Ferns at GoGardenNow.com.

Thursday, September 5, 2013

How do I save my caladiums over winter?

Caladium 'Frieda Hemple'

Caladiums are tropical plants, reliably cold hardy in USDA climate zones 10 and 11. However, they may survive mild winters in USDA climate zones 8 and 9. The best way to be sure they survive is to dig them before first frost. Carefully pull the plants. Keep the roots and soil intact, and store in a cool, dry place for a couple of weeks, allowing the roots and soil to dry. After drying, trim off the stems, and brush remaining soil from the tubers. Store them in a paper bag partially filled with dry peat moss or vermiculite in a cool, dry place over winter.

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Must-Have Plants: Christmas Fern

Christmas fern (Polystichum acrosticoides)

Must-have plants are among the best plants for appropriate garden situations. When you need great garden plants for ground cover, naturalizing, wildflower gardens, perennial borders, butterfly gardens, hummingbird gardens, herb gardens, heritage gardens, cutting gardens, woodland gardens, shade gardens, bulb gardens, container gardens, bog gardens, water gardens, rain gardens or xeriscaping, look for the best among our must-have plants. 

This native, evergreen beauty brightens the winter landscape with its glossy deep green fronds. For generations it was gathered in winter to decorate the home for Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Name(s): Polystichum acrosticoides, Nephrodium acrostichoides, Christmas Fern, Dagger Fern, Polystic Faux-acrostiche.

Flower Color: None.

Bloom Time: Not applicable.

Foliage: Evergreen, dark green.

Height/Spread: 12 inches to 24 inches x 18 inches to 24 inches.

Climate Zones: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9

Sun Exposure: Partial shade to full shade.

Soil Condition: Slightly moist, humus, pH 5.6 to 7.5

Features: Drought tolerant, deer resistant, evergreen foliage.

Uses: Naturalizing, woodland gardens, native fern collections, shade gardens, cutting gardens.

Comments: Read more about Christmas Ferns. Who Can Fear The Winter Stern and They'll Fit On Elves' Feet.

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Thursday, August 29, 2013

Thuya Garden and Asticou Terrace Trail, Northeast Harbor, ME

Thuya Garden vista from the Upper Pavilion
Charles K. Savage, a life-long resident of Northeast Harbor, ME and owner of the Asticou Inn was a lover of native plants and talented landscape designer. He was also a garden rescuer. When noted "landscape gardener" Beatrix Farrand decided in 1955 to quickly dispense with Reef Point, her family estate in Bar Harbor, for commercial development, Charles K. Savage stepped in to incorporate many of the plants in his own garden. Similarly, he transformed the orchard of Joseph Henry Curtis into Thuya Garden.

Curtis was a landscape architect from Boston who summered on Mt. Desert Island, ME for 48 years. His summer estate, Thuya Lodge, was situated high above Northeast Harbor, nestled among native white cedars (Thuja occidentalis). Thus the name, Thuya Lodge. Curtis established a trail from Asticou Terraces Landing to the lodge that allowed access to his lodge from the harbor, with terraces and shelters along the way.

From the landing's parking lot on Route 3, Peabody Drive, the trail climbs first to the Joseph H. Curtis Memorial terrace. A granite slab is carved with Curtis's profile in relief and acknowledges “The Asticou Terraces are his gift for the quiet recreation of the people of this town and their summer guests.” Native azaleas (Rhododendron canadense) flower against a granite backdrop.

Further along, a trail leads to Stone Lookout. The shelter provides a limited vista of the harbor and protection from rain. Most notable are its well-crafted rough-hewn beams and stone construction.

The trail might seem challenging to some visitors. Stone slabs seem to lead ever upward, sometimes past gurgling watercourses, sometimes to precipitous heights. But the trail is not difficult.

Panorama of Northeast Harbor

From the Second Lookout, a trail westward leads to the First Lookout. It's a smaller structure with rustic details providing an excellent panorama of Northeast Harbor. Like the others, it gives protection from the elements, though I suspect less on windy days.

To climb to Thuya Lodge, a visitor can walk to Old Grass Road and loop around to the Ascitou Hill Trail, or return to Second Lookout and proceed upward. Both are delightful paths to the lodge.

Joseph Curtis gave his estate in trust to the residents of Mt. Desert Island as a public park. Charles Savage was appointed trustee. It was Savage's vision to turn the lodge into a horticultural library and the orchard into a semi-formal, herbaceous garden in the manners of Gertrude Jekyll and Beatrix Farrand.

The heart of the garden is, of course, the expanse of lawn flanked by perennial borders. A plant list for 2013 can be downloaded from www.gardenpreserve.org. We missed the beautiful borders in full flower during our May visit. But volunteers were hard at work cultivating them.

Thuya Garden path
A path around the garden leads past a reflecting pool and Spring House. The Azalea Garden includes some rhododendrons salvaged from Ms. Farrand's nearby estate at Reef Point.

The Lower Pavilion and Upper Pavilion provide vistas of the herbaceous garden. As with the Asticou Terrace Trail lookouts, they are well-crafted with rough-hewn timbers. Both reflect something of the Japanese style that so fascinated Savage; especially so does the Upper Pavilion.

Savage completed the garden in 1962. Since then, it has been partially redesigned by Patrick Chasse, former garden curator at Boston's Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, an authority on Beatrix Farrand. Chasse is a resident of Southwest Harbor, Maine.

Visitors to Thuya Garden can park in the Asticou Terraces Landing lot on Route 3, or drive to the lodge and park in the upper lot. The driveway entrance is also on Route 3. The sign marking it is easily overlooked.

Thuya Garden is open from May 1st through October 31st. Thuya Lodge can be visited from mid-June through mid-September.  The Thuya Garden and the Asticou Azalea Garden are owned and operated by the Mount Desert Land and Garden Preserve, a Maine non-profit corporation.

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Friday, August 9, 2013

Asticou Azalea Garden, Northeast Harbor, ME

Asticou Azalea Garden vista across Asticou Pond

When noted "landscape gardener" Beatrix Farrand decided in 1955 to quickly dispense with Reef Point, her family estate in Bar Harbor, for commercial development, Charles K. Savage stepped in to incorporate many of the plants in his own garden. Savage was a life-long resident of Northeast Harbor, ME, correspondent with Farrand and owner of the Asticou Inn. Charles K. Savage was a lover of native plants and avid student of Japanese garden design. With the financial support of John D. Rockefeller Jr., he purchased the plants and added them to the Asticou Azalea Garden, which he designed and built in 1956. Follow me to see what grows behind that garden wall of Asticou Azalea Garden.

The entrance to Asticou Azalea Garden from Route 198 is not immediately obvious. However, the scene from Peabody Drive will turn your head, hinting there must be a way to get in there. Here's a map of Asticou Azalea Garden for you to find and explore it.

Asticou Azalea Garden is meant for strolling. It's a small garden, so you should have plenty of time to see all of it at a leisurely pace. Paths lead visitors through various garden rooms designed in Japanese style. The rooms, many incorporating water features, inspire a sense of serenity and balance. Vistas are designed to appear much greater than they actually are. Plant species include both native and non-native selections that are appropriate to the style and climate.

East meets West beautifully in the Asticou Azalea Garden. From winter with its hushed blanket, to spring and its exuberant floral display, to late summer's water lilies and fall's explosion of the year's last hot colors (see fall photos of Asticou Azalea Garden at Martha Stewart's blog), every season will delight you with its unique textures and colors. You'll return home with lots of ideas for your own garden. I hope you will enjoy these images of Asticou I captured during my visit in May.


For more about Beatrix Farrand, see:
Dumbarton Oaks

Learn more about the history of Northeast Harbor, ME and consider Northeast Harbor for your next vacation.

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Tuesday, August 6, 2013

What is the difference between a pip and a plant?

Q. Most other sellers represent the dwarf mondo in quantities of PIPs. Could you tell me the difference between your bare root mondo plants and PIPs?

A. "Pip" is probably derived from the word, "pippin", which refers to a small seed or a plant grown from a seed. Some old apple varieties are known as pippins. There are several definitions of "pip." The one you have in mind is: "a single rootstock or flower of lily-of-the-valley, peony, etc." (Webster's New World Dictionary, The World Publishing Co., NY.)

Many plants such as lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria), liriope and mondo (Ophiopogon) produce new plants as offshoots from their bases. As many offshoots are produced a clump is formed. The offshoots are complete plants with roots and leaves, can be divided from the parent plants when mature and safely planted elsewhere. I've produced a Youtube video that demonstrates the process.

Another similar word used less frequently is "bib", which is probably a corruption of "pip." I don't use "pip" or "bib" very much any more because they are obscure, except among some gardeners. So to promote clarity, I refer to small single rootstocks as offshoots, divisions or simply as plants.

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Monday, July 29, 2013

Village of Mt. Kisco NY Public Library Rain Garden

When visiting great gardens in the Hudson River Valley, I came upon this delightful landscape at the Mt. Kisco Public Library. I hope you'll enjoy the images and be inspired to support a "rain garden" project in your community.

Mt. Kisco Public Library
Eupatorium in Mt. Kisco Rain Garden




















Rain garden plants must tolerate intermittent dry and wet soils.











Branch Brook is protected from some runoff and pollutants.

















To learn more about the the rain garden at Mt. Kisco Public Library, check out this link to the Mt. Kisco Public Library Foundation Green Space Project.

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All my thyme died. Why?

Q. I put some 10-10-10 in my pots of thyme and all my thyme died? Why? I soaked them right after I fertilized them, and they have been getting plenty of water. In fact, it has rained almost every day.

A. Thyme doesn't need much fertilizer. A light application of compost in spring should be enough. 10-10-10 is too hot. It's possible the fertilizer came in contact with plant tissue and burned the plants.

Another factor could be too much water. If you've been getting rain each day, it's likely that's the reason your thyme died.

Thyme likes poor, well-drained soil on the dry side. Read more about growing thyme, Thyme It Is A Precious Thing at goGardenNow.blogspot.com.

Return to Thymus at GoGardenNow.com.

Monday, July 22, 2013

This Homeowner Has Uneven Soil Moisture Issues

Q. One section of our lawn gets dry sooner than others. We run the sprinkler system the same length of time in each section. The sprinklers in the dry area also water another area that doesn't dry out, so we can't really run them longer without getting the other area too wet. Help!

A. You should figure out why the area in question dries so soon. The reason might include any of the following:
  • The grade of the lawn is higher in the dry area than in the others, so the water is draining away;
  • The soil type is sandier in the dry area than in the others, so the water perks down sooner;
  • The sprinkler heads in the dry area are not covering it properly;
  • The sprinkler heads in the dry area are not delivering enough water;
  • The sprinkler heads are spaced too far apart.
The simplest thing will be for you to place several empty cans of the same size around your lawn, especially within that irrigation zone. Run the irrigation for the normal period of time, then measure the water in the cans. This will indicate whether enough water is being distributed, and whether it is being distributed evenly. If the dry area is receiving less water, try replacing the existing nozzles with larger ones. If your water pressure is insufficient to support larger nozzles, replace the nozzles in adjacent normal areas with smaller ones, and run that zone a little longer.

Changing nozzles is not difficult, but it may require some inexpensive, specialized tools. If you can't do it yourself, or you simply don't want to be bothered, find a competent lawn irrigation specialist.

If the problem is due to grade or soil type, know that the grade can be changed or the soil can be amended. If the sprinkler heads are spaced too far apart, you may need to have additional heads installed. A well-respected landscape specialist should be able to help you.

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Friday, July 5, 2013

Behind A Garden Wall: Mike Roess Gold Head Branch State Park

Gold Head Branch with Needle palm (Rhapidophyllum hystrix)
My son suggested we go to Florida for a garden excursion. We camped at Mike Roess ("Roess" is pronounced "race") Gold Head Branch State Park, one of Florida's "original State Parks" because of its history and biological diversity.

Round about getting-off-time we were caught in traffic creeping out of Jacksonville. Jacksonville was known as the largest city (measured by square miles) in the U.S. because the whole county was incorporated. Perhaps it is still. Years ago vacationers would see signs way out in the boonies marking Jacksonville's city limits. Now there are miles upon miles of commercial zones and traffic lights on FL 21.  Jacksonville has over-stuffed its boundaries.

Traffic had petered out by the time we reached Camp Blanding. It’s a large military reservation with arid sand hills surrounded by high fencing and wide security clearings, lots of scrub and saw palmettos probably full of rattlesnakes. We saw shopping malls before. Now the landscape was dotted with flowers. There were white flowers everywhere.

Arid sand hills are familiar in my neck of the woods. Acres and acres of yellow sand support turkey oaks (Quercus laevis) and longleaf pines (Pinus palustris). None grow too tall. Near them grow jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens), sandhill rosemary (Ceratiola ericoides), yucca (Yucca filamentosa), deerberry (Vaccinium stamineum), saw palmetto (Serenoa repens), prickly pear (Opuntia spp.), wiregrass (Aristida stricta var. beyrichiana) and much, much more. But those white flowers everywhere baffled me.

Asimina obovata
We finally arrived at Gold Head Branch State Park, checked in, found our site and set up camp. I spotted a ranger along the way and asked about the white flowers. "Those are paw paws", he said. "Several species grow here."

"Really? Those are the shortest paw paws I've ever seen."

"They're edible. Animals eat the fruit. Gopher tortoises, deer, whatever."

"Paw-paws?" my son asked.

“You know, like in The Paw Paw Patch.”



This region of Florida is known for its lakes. There are two lakes sharing a famous name in Gold Head Branch State Park: Big Johnson and Little Johnson.

Judging from internet search results, Big Johnson should be a really big thing. But it isn't. Big Johnson is dried up. The ramp leads to a bog. Way, way out there is a puddle. Check out this panorama of Big Johnson Lake. Little Johnson seems no larger than Big Johnson. I guess that's what happens with time.

Big Johnson Lake

Many lakes near Gold Head Branch and the nearest town, Keystone Heights, are dry. Opinions differ about the causes. Two were mentioned most when I asked locals: cyclical drought and Jacksonville’s thirst. An old friend we visited near Melrose said residents were used to 7-year cycles of lake levels rising and falling, but they're way overdue. The last high was about 20 years ago. Lakefront landscapes looked arid, and future prospects bleak.

We found respite by descending into the Gold Head Branch ravine. It resembled a rain forest.

Needle palm (Rhapidophyllum hystrix)
Crystal clear water emerges from springs or “seeps” flowing into the bottom of the ravine at rates of 43, 200 gallons per hour and more. The moist environment supports many species very different from those above. They include Creeping Bramble fern (Hypolepis repens), Netted Chain fern (Woodwardia areolata), Partridge Berry (Mitchella repens), Southern Wood fern (Dryopteris ludoviciana), Florida Leucothoe (Agarista populifolia), Citrus spp., Needle palm (Rhapidophyllum hystrix), Blue palm (Sabal minor), Red Bay (Persea borbonia), muscadine grape (Vitis rotundifolia), Drooping leucothoe (Leucothoe fontanesiana), Gallberry (Ilex glabra), Yaupon holly (Ilex vomitoria), Southern magnolia (M. grandiflora), Devil's Walkingstick (Aralia spinosa) and much more. The ravine was once the home of Florida’s champion sweetgum tree (Liquidambar styraciflua) which was 102 feet tall and 13.5 feet diameter. Alas, it no longer exists.

Gold Head Branch

Where there's water there's life. A grist mill existed in the ravine around the turn of the century, and a general store before that. A Baptist church served nearby. A kiosk displays brief records of their histories.

Gold Head Branch State Park is home to many imperiled plants, invertebrates, amphibians, reptiles and birds.

Among features named on a park map, Devil’s Washbasin and Sheeler Lake are well worth exploring. Sheeler Lake, a pristine deep water lake, is said to be over 23,900 years old. It was once measured 72 feet deep. Devil’s Washbasin has been measured over 60 feet deep. Though not surrounded by such verdant flora as the ravine, plant species around the lakes are every bit as interesting.

Devil's Washbasin

Gold Head Branch State Park is not a planned botanical garden, but gardeners will enjoy visits. Studying plant communities helps us understand which species thrive together, why and how. Such information is invaluable to plant lovers.

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