Rudbeckia - Where Black-Eyed Susans Grow

Rudbeckia 'Spotlight'

One of my earliest heart-felt memories of early childhood is of walking in our front yard overlooking the river waist-deep in Black-Eyed Susans. Now the sight of them anywhere recalls those halcyon days. And there are many reminders, for Black-Eyed Susans are native to North America. According to the USDA PLANTS Database, there are few states where at least one species can't be found in the wild.

It's believed that English colonists gave the flowers their common name inspired by a popular romantic poem of the time, Black-Eyed Susan by John Gay (1685-1732).

ALL in the Downs the fleet was moor’d,
  The streamers waving in the wind,
When black-eyed Susan came aboard;
  ‘O! where shall I my true-love find?   
Tell me, ye jovial sailors, tell me true
If my sweet William sails among the crew.’   

William, who high upon the yard
  Rock’d with the billow to and fro,
Soon as her well-known voice he heard
  He sigh’d, and cast his eyes below:
The cord slides swiftly through his glowing hands,
And quick as lightning on the deck he stands.

Then the lovers embraced,

The noblest captain in the British fleet   
Might envy William’s lip those kisses sweet.

Sweet William commenced to assure her that he would be safe even in battle, and true to his vows. Finally,

The boatswain gave the dreadful word,
  The sails their swelling bosom spread,
No longer must she stay aboard;
  They kiss’d, she sigh’d, he hung his head.
Her lessening boat unwilling rows to land;
  ‘Adieu!’ she cries; and waved her lily hand.

Perhaps the memories of parting and the colonists' own travels came to mind.

The naming of genus Rudbeckia (pronounced rud-BEK-ee-a) isn't so romantic, but worth knowing. It was named for Olof and son Olof Rudbeck, well-known Swedish scientists of the 17th and 18th centuries. Olof the Elder, (1630-1702), also known as Olaus, was best known for his work in medicine and linguistics, but also for his accomplishments in botany, astronomy and music. A professor at Uppsala University, he established Sweden's first botanical garden there. It became known as Rudbeck's Garden.

Olof the Younger (1660-1740) continued in his father's footsteps, succeeded his father's professorship at Uppsala, excelling in ornithology, botany and linguistics. One of his best-known students was another famous Swede, Carl Linneaus (1707-1778), the botanist who devised our system of taxonomy. Quite naturally, Linneaus honored the Rudbecks in the genus Rudbeckia. Rudbeck's Garden was later re-named Linneaus Garden.

Of the 30 or so Rudbeckia species, I admire a few particularly.

Rudbeckia hirta may be the most common. It grows almost everywhere unplanted and untended. You'll find it along roadsides, in fields, and maybe wild in your yard, too. You've probably picked them for bouquets. There are several varieties. Rudbeckia hirta var. pulcherimma is hardier than the rest. You'll find it growing from Florida to Canada. It's mostly biennial at best, meaning that it flowers the second year and dies. In the south, R. hirta may flower the first year and die, but not before it re-seeds itself. In fact, that's the beauty of Rudbeckia hirta; it's easy to start from seed. Perfect for planting your own wildflower meadow.

Rudbeckia hirta has been used medicinally for many years. It's said to boost the immune system, so was used to treat various infections.

Maybe you remember the Gloriosa Daisy. I do. It was a big hit when introduced back in the 1950s. Gloriosa Daisy resulted as an attempt to perennialize R. hirta. That didn't work. But Gloriosa Daisy is still popular because the flowers are much larger than the species, in nice mixtures of colors, and sometimes double. It's ideal for naturalizing. I also remember my mother being disappointed that Gloriosa Daisy didn't return year after year.

Several new Rudbeckia hirta cultivars have been introduced recently promising longer than biennial lives. The jury is still out. Don't count on Rudbeckia hirta as a perennial yet, but enjoy it for what it is. Gloriosa Daisy is hardy in USDA climate zones 5 to 10.

Rudbeckia fulgida 'Goldsturm'

If you want a dependable native perennial that looks like Rudbeckia hirta, plant Rudbeckia fulgida or it's offspring. R. fulgida is the honored grandparent of most hybrid perennial Black-Eyed Susans. Its various varieties are the parents. These varieties are distinguished by slight differences. Plant producers look to those differences to selectively breed into new hybrids.

Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii is the parent of the most popular Black-Eyed Susan, Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii 'Goldsturm'. Developed in Germany, the name means "gold storm." It certainly is. The flowers are golden yellow, large and abundant, appearing for weeks from mid-summer to fall. It's so tough, you'll find it in planting beds around gas stations and shopping malls. Not surprisingly, it was named the 1999 Perennial Plant of the Year by the Perennial Plant Association. R. fulgida var. sullivantii is hardy in USDA climate zones 3 to 9.

Rudbeckia fulgida var. speciosa is almost exactly the same as var. sullivantii, but shorter. Common names include Eastern Coneflower, Orange Coneflower, Showy Coneflower. 'Viette's Little Suzy' is one to look for. 'Little Suzy' is named after a family of plant hybridizers in the U.S. R. fulgida var. speciosa is hardy in USDA climate zones 4 to 8.


(Note that the common name, Coneflower, is also shared with the related genus, Echinacea. They are not to be confused, though some Echinaceas were once named among the Rudbeckias. .)

Rudbeckia lacinata, known as Cutleaf Coneflower, is a tall one, sometimes growing 9 feet high. The large flowers with drooping petals are light lemon yellow. It's too tall for planting in the front of perennial beds, but perfect for planting in the rear. The petals fluttering in the breeze add motion and interest to the border. The disadvantage of its height is that it needs support to keep it from falling over.

Back in 1894, a seedling of R. lacinata named 'Golden Glow' was introduced to an appreciative gardening audience. Showy double blooms and shorter height (about 5 feet) made it very popular. But like its parent, it also needs support. 'Golden Glow' is still available, but superseded by an offspring named R. lacinata 'Golden Drop.' 'Golden Drop' only grows to 3 feet. If you want to plant a "heritage" garden featuring old-fashioned, heirloom species, Rudbeckia lacinata is a "must have." It's hardy in USDA climate zones 4 to 8.

Rudbeckia maxima

Rudbeckia maxima, also known as Great Coneflower and Cabbage Leaf Coneflower, grows to 6 feet. The medium yellow flowers sport prominent cones. It's native to Texas and surrounding Gulf states. Rudbeckia maxima is known to be hardy in USDA climate zones 6 to 8.

Rudbeckia nitia is tall, like R. lacinata and R. maxima, but the large, golden yellow flowers have green centers. It's commonly called Shining Coneflower. R. nitida should be considered a protected species, so don't collect it from the wild. From it, plant breeders have produced a wonderful new plant called 'Herbstsonne.' 'Herbstsonne' means "autumn sun." Enormous flowers on tall 6 foot plants really attract attention. This, too, is perfect for height and drama in the perennial border. 'Goldquelle' is a shorter version with double flowers. 'Goldquelle' means "bonanza". It deserves the name. R. nitida is hardy in USDA climate zones 4 to 10.

Rudbeckia subtomentosa is another desirable species. It's commonly called Sweet Black-Eyed Susan. You'll find it growing wild in the central United States. Height is about 4 feet. The flowers are especially fragrant. 'Henry Eilers', a cultivar, displays large golden blossoms with tubular petals, somewhat resembling yellow wagon wheels. R. subtomentosa is hardy in USDA climate zones 4 to 10.

Rudbeckia triloba

Rudbeckia triloba, commonly known as Three-lobed Rudbeckia or Brown-eyed Susan, is very hardy, thriving in USDA climate zones 3 to 10. Bright yellow flowers with big brown centers really attract attention. Plants grow to 4 feet. Two cultivars, 'Prairie Glow' and 'Red Sport' produce bright orange flowers with yellow tips.

Rudbeckias perform best in full sun, but will tolerate partial or light shade. Soils should be well-drained soils with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.5.  Take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for proper analysis.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6 inches deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compost may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4 inches to 6 inches of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

If planting seed, sow according to instructions on the seed packet.

If planting container-grown plants, space larger ones 24 inches to 36 inches apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1 inch deep.

Plant Rudbeckias with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between watering.

All Rudbeckias attract butterflies. Birds get enthusiastic about the seeds. All Black-Eyed Susans are reasonably drought-tolerant. They're especially suited to naturalizing, wildflower meadows, cutting gardens, wildlife gardens, native plant collections, heritage and cottage gardens. But they're wonderful in any perennial garden or border, even at gas stations and shopping malls.

Where should Black-Eyed Susans grow? Probably in your garden. Certainly in your heart.

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Rudbeckia hirta 'Prairie Sun'

Forget-Me-Not: A Sweet, A Lovely Flower

Myosotis sylvatica

There is a sweet, a lovely flower,
Tinged deep with faith’s unchanging hue,
Pure as the ether in its hour
Of loveliest and serenest blue.
The streamlet’s gentle side it seeks,
The silent fount, the shaded grot;
And sweetly to the heart it speaks—
Forget-me-not, forget-me-not.

-From My Flower Pot, Anonymous, c. 1850.

For centuries, Forget-Me-Nots (Myosotis spp.) have been associated with sentiments of love and hopes for remembrance. According to The Merriam-Webster Dictionary, the first known English use of the name was in 1532, so everyone agrees. Unfortunately, I can't find the instance. Anyway, there are several fanciful legends about how the name originated. They tell of lovers and nearly-forgotten plants that talk.

One story is related by Charles Mills in his book, The History of Chivalry, published 1844.

Two lovers were loitering on the margin of a lake, on a fine summer's evening, when the maiden espied some of the flowers of Myosotis growing on the water, close to the bank of an island, at some distance from the shore. She expressed a desire to possess them, when her knight, in the true spirit of chivalry, plunged into the water, and, swimming to the spot, cropped the wished-for plant, but his strength was unable to fulfil the object of his achievement, and feeling that he could not regain the shore, although very near it, he threw the flowers upon the bank, and casting a last affectionate look upon his lady-love, he cried, ' Forget-me-not,' and was buried in the waters.

They have sometimes been mentioned in literature.

Meanwhile apart, in the twilight gloom of a window's embrasure,
Sat the lovers, and whispered together, beholding the moon rise
Over the pallid sea and the silvery mist of the meadows.
Silently one by one, in the infinite meadows of heaven,
Blossomed the lovely stars, the forget-me-nots of the angels.

-From Evangeline: A Tale of Acadie by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow (1807-1882)

Naturally, Forget-Me-Nots are beloved because of their romantic associations, more so during Victorian times when "the language of flowers" was taken more seriously.

There may be more practical reasons for Myosotis to be called Forget-Me-Not. Once they get going, they re-seed themselves in abundance, so the gardener is often reminded of that moment when she first planted it. Most folks appreciate the appearance of more and more Forget-Me-Nots, but some do not. Another reason for the name might be that the seeds stick to clothing and pets.

The name, Myosotis (pronounced my-oh-SO-tis), actually means "mouse ear", referring to the shape and texture of the leaf. There are about 50 species. Some are annuals; some are perennials. Small flowers appear in spring, and range from white, pink to blue with yellow centers. Foliage is herbaceous, disappearing (or nearly so) in winter. The plants are biennial to perennial. Some are native to North America. Only a few are commercially available. Myosotis sylvatica (also known as Myosotis alpestris and Myosotis oblongata) is arguably the most popular.

M. sylvatica is hardy in USDA climate zones 3 to 8, thriving in light shade. Plant in loamy, well-drained garden soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8., though Forget-Me-Nots are tolerant of wet soils. Space young plants 8 inches to 12 inches apart.

Deer and rabbits don't much like them, nor are Forget-Me-Nots prone to insect problems. Mildew can appear in unkempt, humid gardens where plant debris is left to accumulate.

Forget-Me-Nots often bloom the same time as tulips, narcissus, and hyacinth, filling the space between the bulbs with a profusion of soft, dainty flowers. They are suitable for planting in container gardens, rock gardens, in the fronts of borders, naturalizing and woodland gardens. Because they tolerate wet soils, they're also ideal for rain gardens. Forget-Me-Nots are perfect for theme gardens such as Victorian, Cottage gardens and children's gardens. For that romantic touch, don't forget to include Forget-Me-Nots in your plantings. You will be inspired.

“Forget me not:” no, lovely flow’r,

I’ll think on thee for many an hour:

If I could paint, I’d copy thee;

Then thou wouldst long remember’d be.

-From A Little Girl To Her Flowers In Verse, Anonymous, 1828.

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When is the best time to plant Creeping Lily Turf?

Liriope spicata lawn substitute

Q. I'm considering using Creeping Lily Turf and being that we're in the dog days of summer wondering when the best time to plant, now? fall? spring? In Zone 6.

A. Creeping Lily Turf is very resilient, drought and heat tolerant, even bare root liriope should survive planting in midsummer so long as you provide adequate irrigation until the plants are established.

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FAQ: I have a heavily shaded lawn and have given up on trying to grow grass...What would you suggest?

Asiatic Jasmine lawn substitute

Q. We live approximately 60 miles southeast of Atlanta. I have a heavily shaded lawn and have given up on trying to grow grass. I have been advised to try Lenten Roses and ferns as an alternative. We have very hard clay soil but sloping, so have pretty good drainage. What would you suggest?

A. There are two ways you can deal with this. The first would be to develop a lawn substitute planted with shade loving species that tolerate some foot traffic. Appropriate plants could include Bugle Weed (Ajuga reptans), Sedge (Carex morrowii), Kenilworth Ivy (Cymbalaria aequitriloba), Kew Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei 'Kewensis'), Variegated Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea 'Variegata'), Moss (Hypnum imponens), Lily Turf (Liriope muscari), Creeping Lily Turf (Liriope spicata), Creeping Wire Vine (Muehlenbeckia axillaris) or Dwarf Creeping Wire Vine (Muehlenbeckia axillaris 'Nana'), Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon japonicus) or Dwarf Mondo (Ophiopogon japonicus 'Nana').

The second would be to develop a shade garden in which foot traffic is not allowed, or is restricted to paths and stepping stones. Appropriate plants could include Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior), ferns, Lily Of The Valley (Convallaria majalis), Lenten Rose (Helleborus spp.), English Ivy (Hedera helix 'Needlepoint', 'Anne Marie', 'Gold Child', 'Ingelise', 'Teardrop'), Hosta, Allegheny Spurge (Pachysandra procumbens), Japanese Spurge (Pachysandra terminalis), Spike Moss (Selaginella uncinata or other species), Asiatic Jasmine (Trachelospermum asiaticum), and Vincas (V. major or V. minor). Of course, any of the low-growing lawn substitute type plants could also be included.

I also suggest amending your hard clay soil. Spread a four inch layer of organic compost over the area, and work it into the top six inches of soil with a tiller. Next, spread a 4 inch layer of sand over the area, and till it into the first six inches of soil. This should help to make the site more hospitable.

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Outdoor exercise can reduce the risk of mental health problems.

Photo by Skitterphoto from Pexels

According to a study by researchers at Glasgow University, as reported by The Telegraph, "a jog through a forest can cut the risk of suffering from mental health problems and is twice as good for you as working out in the gym". Apparently a natural environment reduces stress levels. It goes on to suggest that exercise in the garden is also beneficial. Read more...

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Behind A Garden Wall: The Cape Fear Botanical Garden

Spring calls for a walk in a garden or wood. The Cape Fear Botanical Garden in Fayetteville, NC provides both. Conceived in 1989, it is fairly young, without the history, grand specimens and patina that older gardens gain with time. Much remains undeveloped, but there is a feeling of freshness. Perfect for a Sunday afternoon in spring.

From the Wyatt Visitors Pavilion, we strolled, garden map in hand, through the Wellons Arbor. Planted with immature vines, it will eventually become very beautiful, though it's not unattractive now. My wife remarked that she wants me to build one like it.

If we had followed the map, we would have turned to the left and taken a clock-wise course around the garden, but we didn't. We passed the fountain, a naturalistic spring set in stone, admired the tulips and viola, and headed toward the river. Along the way, we enjoyed glimpses of Cross Creek, a tributary of the Cape Fear.

I'm drawn to rivers, creeks, lakes and oceans, so the prospect of walking along the Cape Fear River was too much to resist. The Cape Fear was a principal means of transportation into the interior of North Carolina, especially before the advent of railroads. It's still navigable as far inland as Fayetteville.

The walk to the Cape Fear River begins on high banks where wildflowers such as Spring Beauty (Claytonia virginica) and Fawn Lily (Erythronium americanum) were appearing. Then the trail winds through its floodplain, crossing a well-built footbridge. Typical regional species on the forest floor include Purple Dead Nettle (Lamium purpureum), Yellow Buckeye (Aesculus flava), Gray's Sedge (Carex grayi), Mayapple (Podophyllum peltatum) and Cleavers (Galium aparine). There was also a good population of non-native Japanese Stilt Grass (Microstegium vimineum). We saw a good many fiddleheads, including Christmas Ferns (Polystichum acrostichoides) and Southern Lady Ferns (Athyrium asplenoides) as we ascended.

Views of Cross Creek and the Cape Fear River were pretty good that time of year when arboreal foliage was still unfledged. I expect it's different in summer. Perhaps garden plans include providing better vistas without compromising the natural appeal. Apart from the sound of distant traffic, it seemed like the city was far away. But it wasn't.

At the upper edge of the forest, we came into the McLaurin Camellia Garden. Our camellia season in south Georgia was over. Most here were in full bloom: 'Imura', 'Gigantea' (see photo above), 'Pink Perfection', 'Fashionata'. We found a little extra pleasure in the fragrance of Variegated Winter Daphne (Daphne odora 'Aureo-marginata').

Almost every contemporary botanical garden has popular theme gardens: rain gardens, friendship gardens, water-wise gardens, and children's gardens. This one has them, too. Judging from the approaching clamor, it seemed the children's garden was going to be a happening place in a few seconds. We escaped to a more idyllic spot - the Great Lawn and gazebo, where a young mother and daughters were enjoying a quiet tea party. Star Magnolia (M. stellata) and a rhododendron were in bloom.

We were slow to leave the garden, though the day was waning and we had many miles to drive. Still, I had to pause to snap pictures of great ground covers such as Dark Dancer Clover (Trifolium repens var. atropurpureum) and Creeping Veronica.

The Cape Fear Botanical Garden is a member of The American Horticultural Society Reciprocal Admissions Program. Which means a membership in one participating botanical garden will provide benefits in another. In this case, a membership in another will get you free admission to the Cape Fear Botanical Garden.

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Will Ficus pumila - Creeping Fig - grow down a wall in zone 7-b?

Ficus pumila in 3-1/2 inch pots

Q.  I bought 2 pots of Creeping fig--Ficus pumila to plant at my retaining wall which is 4 ft. high by 52 ft. My question is will it grow DOWN from top of wall to spill over, or is it better to plant them at ground level to grow up?  It gets morning  sun and part shade from 2:30 on. I live near Atlanta, GA in Kennesaw, GA zone 7-b.

A. It's better to plant them at ground level. If you want the ficus to cover the 52' retaining wall within a reasonable amount of time, you'll need more than 2 pots.

I see you live in USDA climate zone 7b. Ficus is reliably cold hardy to zone 8. It's likely that your ficus will be frozen unless you provide adequate winter protection. I've seen it growing in zone 7, but with winter protection.

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What can I do to stop my Lithodora turning black?

Lithodora diffusa 'Grace Ward'

Q. I have a bunch of Grace Ward Lithodora. They have been in the ground over a year, they were looking good but now turning black. What can I do to stop this?

A. Without knowing anything about the growing conditions, I'll hazard the guess that it's because of too much water. I think that if you pull up one of the sick plants, you'll find root rot.

Plenty of morning sun and drier soil conditions can help. Lithodora re-planted in the same site probably won't do well because fungal spores will remain in the soil unless the soil is replaced. However, treating the soil with fungicide and lowering the pH below 5.0 might help. Using a sulfur-based fungicide would lower the pH and treat fungus, too.

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From the Purdue News Service: Blossom end rot plummets in Purdue-developed transgenic tomato

Blossom-end rot in tomatoes

"The brown tissue that signals blossom end rot in tomatoes is a major problem for large producers and home gardeners, but a Purdue University researcher has unknowingly had the answer to significantly lowering occurrences of the disease sitting on a shelf for 20 years." Read more about this development from the Purdue University News Service.

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Behind A Garden Wall: The Atlanta Botanical Garden

Atlanta Botanical Garden entrance

Conceived in 1973 by civic-minded Atlantans, the Atlanta Botanical Garden has grown from a temporary office in a double-wide trailer to a 30-acre oasis adjacent to Piedmont Park. Its mission is "to develop and maintain plant collections for display, education, research, conservation and enjoyment." But it's more than a big plant display. Nestled beneath the Atlanta skyline, and screened from traffic, the Atlanta Botanical Garden is a welcome retreat, a learning center, a place for reflection and celebration. Follow me to see what grows behind that garden wall.

Our last visit was in mid-summer, 2011. Julys in Atlanta can be brutal. From the new Hardin Visitor Center, we headed straight to the GardenHouse for a cold drink and snack.

Having battled Atlanta traffic, we needed to calm our minds. We found the perfect place within the walls of the nearby Japanese Garden. The Japanese Garden is probably the oldest part of the campus, begun in Piedmont Park in the 1960s. We felt more tranquil simply by entering the moon gate. Traditional Japanese architecture frames azaleas, conifers, irises and water features.

Atlanta Botanical Garden - Japanese Garden

We have strong interests in fruit and vegetable gardening, so we meandered to the Edible Garden. Along the way, this imaginative sculptured gate by Andrew Crawford delighted us. We also admired some fine specimen plants such as this sinuous Styrax japonica 'Emerald Pagoda'.

The Herb Wall is one of The Edible Garden's most interesting features. Imagine an ornamental wall of thyme, oregano, lavender, rosemary, chives, parsley growing where they can be easily reached. The site was the former parking lot for the Atlanta Botanical Garden. To turn asphalt into a green space for edibles was a stroke of genius. Are you inspired to construct your own? Your south-facing wall could be adorned and insulated with savory botanicals. Nice! (Oooh, oooh! I want one!) Well, the Edible Garden Project cost $2 million. The Herb Wall was only a fraction of the cost. An espaliered fruit tree should be far less expensive. I have created a few of them, myself.

Atlanta Botanical Garden - Fruit espalier

The Edible Garden also features an outdoor kitchen where chefs demonstrate recipes and cooking techniques, and guests can dine al fresco. In fact, the Garden is currently hosting "Gourmet in May", "a month-long smorgasbord of demonstrations, activities, classes and festivities in the Edible Garden and Outdoor Kitchen."

Phalaenopsis

We passed the Conservation Center and entered The Dorothy Chapman Fuqua Conservatory through the side door. I've loved tropicals since I was a small child. I think I was first smitten while visiting my great-aunt's orchid house in Jacksonville, FL. This is that on a grand scale. The conservatory is divided into a few micro-climates to accommodate exotics from diverse habitats. Where ever you look, there are orchids, bromeliads, anthuriums, succulents, bold foliage displays and patterns, and intriguing scenes. Unusual birds may appear. You'll also find a frog collection. All this within a glass house protected from the real dangers in rainforests.

Leaving the Conservatory, we emerged at The Great Lawn. If you visit The Great Lawn at the right times, you can enjoy Concerts In The Garden and The Garden Of Eden Ball. Weddings and other celebrations are sometimes scheduled. Our visit was not at the right time. It was hotter than Hades. The Conservation Garden, Aquatic Plant Pond, Rock Garden and Rose Garden looked worse for the heat.

Atlanta Botanical Garden - Dale Chihuly glass sculpture

We strolled to the Levy Parterre. Then, the coolest thing appeared before us: Dale Chihuly's magnificent blue and white glass sculpture centered upon an Italian limestone fountain. I had to view it from more than one place. Seen from the Alston Overlook, the Chihuly glass beneath the Atlanta skyline was impressive. The Atlanta skyline would have been imposing without the summer haze.

While hurrying to find refreshment, we neglected a few wonderful Garden features near the entrance, such as the Pear Tree sculpture, a fine mixed border with ornamental grasses, and a spilling fountain. We went back for a look.

The Kendeda Canopy Walk is one of the botanical garden's newest attractions. Providing the sensation of floating above the forest floor, it's said to be the only tree-canopy level walk of its kind in the United States. But that day was too hot. We experienced the sensation of more sweaty walking, so returned to our vehicle.

The Atlanta Botanical Garden participates in the American Horticultural Society's Reciprocal Agreement Program. As of this writing, that permits free admission and parking.

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The American Horticultural Society's Reciprocal Admissions Program

If you enjoy visiting botanical gardens, but are put off by admission fees, consider taking advantage of the American Horticultural Society's Reciprocal Admissions Program. Here's how it works. Purchase a membership card from the AHS or from one of its participating gardens. That membership can allow you entrance, usually free admission or parking, to other participating gardens. You may also enjoy discounts in their gift shops, and other member perks. A printable guide, called the RAPLIST, can be obtained online which informs of the benefits at various member gardens.

Keep in mind, however, that the Reciprocal Admissions Program may not allow free admission to every garden listed in the guide. Furthermore, some gardens listed don't charge admission in the first place. Check out the benefit symbols carefully to make sure you understand. If you're not sure, contact the garden in question.

Travel Advisory: If you are a member of one botanical garden on the RAPLIST and go to visit another, make sure you have your membership card in hand along with a printed copy of the latest RAPLIST. Of the last five botanical gardens we visited, three admission desk attendants didn't know what I was talking about. Though I presented my papers, they had to find someone else to consult. It can be a bit disconcerting. If it happens to you, just be patient and gracious. All in all, it's a fine program that I highly recommend.

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About planting Euonymus fortunei - Wintercreeper

Euonymus in 3-1/2 inch pot

Q. I want to plant Euonymus fortunei Purple Wintercreeper, and I do not want it to grow over about 6 inches high (for visual reasons).  Is it correct that in order to restrict the height of the plant, I should cut the height over the first few years to cause more horizontal branching? Also, when would be a good time to plant them? Are there any particular recommendations on the best way to plant them?

A. Yes, cutting the height will cause more horizontal branching. Not only will it tend to reduce the height, but will also improve the density of the ground cover.

Euonymus is very tough, so we sell the bare root plants all year long. The plants are bundled, wrapped in moist packing material, and shipped in water-resistant boxes. They can be planted successfully during summer, providing they receive adequate irrigation after planting.

For more about Euonymus, check out my other articles on the plant in this blog. Look for Euonymus in the label index in the right side bar.

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How To Plant Hay-Scented Ferns

A question about organic fertilizer for a planting of Ophiopogon.

Q. I received your call (John) last week about the dwarf ophiopogon that I ordered.  I planted them the next morning.  They arrived in good shape.  Do you have suggestions on encouraging root growth and fertilization?  (organic)  Thanks!

A. Of course, organic compost is fine, but it can't be worked into the soil at this point. A light application over the top is okay, so long as it doesn't cover the blades and crown.

Milorganite® is would be a good choice if you want to use a granular fertilizer. It is made of dried, pelletized microbes left over from waste treatment. Contrary to what some believe, Milorganite® is NOT made from human waste.

Another method would be to spray fish emulsion over the planting. Fish emulsion is just that...kind of like the stuff made with the Bass-O-Matic by Dan Akyroyd on Saturday Night Live (years ago). In addition to fertilizing the soil, it is a good foliar spray. It does smell somewhat.

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FAQ: Would dwarf mondo be a good choice for my landscape?

Dwarf Mondo lawn

Q. I have a large area, approx. 1.000 sq. ft. under large oak trees.  Grass of any kind does not do well. Mondo grass has been recommended. Dwarf Mondo seems to be a good choice. I live in northern FL. If if chose Mondo grass how much would be needed to cover the area? How far apart would sprigs be planted? How long to expect the plant to cover bare areas? Any other info would be  appreciated.

A. If you're looking for something turf-like, mondo (Ophiopogon japonicus) would be a good choice, but dwarf spreads fairly slowly. The actual length of time required before coverage depends on several variables: irrigation, fertilization, soil conditions. Leaf blades are 2 inches to 3 inches. If you plant bare root sprigs, they should be planted fairly close together. 4 inches or so would be ideal. For 1000 sq. ft., you'd need 9000 sprigs. (I do offer quantity discounts.) If you planted 6 inches apart, you'd need 4000 sprigs.

The longer blade mondo spreads more quickly. In addition, the longer blades (6 inches to 8 inches) give the appearance of quicker coverage.

Liriope spicata also grows in full shade. It spreads much more rapidly. Leaf blades are about 12 inches long. They can be mown occasionally. Liriope spicata can be planted farther apart. If planted 8 inches apart, you'd need 2250 sprigs. If planted 10 inches apart, you'd need 1450 sprigs. At 12 inches apart you'd need 1000 sprigs.

Liriope muscari has broader leaves than L.spicata, so doesn't appear so turf-like. 'Royal Purple' is a good one for coverage. Spreads nicely.

Other shade-tolerant ground covers that also tolerate dry soil (which I expect you have under oaks), that do NOT have turf-like appearance, include Ajuga reptans, Chrysogonum virginianum, Euonymus fortunei, Glechoma hederacea, Lamium maculatum, Hedera helix, Lamiastrum galeobdolon, Pachysandra terminalis, Vinca major and V. minor. Most can be planted farther apart.

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FAQ: What is this?

I'm often asked, "What is this?" This time, it's about a bee. 

Q. What is this? I noticed sawdust under my porch swing, and I felt buzzing in the seat. My husband found a hole in it. Something was moving inside, so he sprayed some bug-killer. While I was taking a picture a few days later, this came out!

A. I'm not a bee expert, but I have some experience. I've been stung by many. This looks like a carpenter bee. Carpenter bees look like bumblebees; both dig holes. Maybe they're the same species; I'm not sure. But, so far as I know, bumblebees nest in holes in the ground; carpenter bees dig holes in wood. Both would rather fly away, but will sting if threatened.

Several years ago, one son was mowing a field when he pulled the machine over a bumblebee nest. It was an unforgettable experience.

On another occasion, while visiting my uncle in the mountains of North Carolina, I tagged along to visit one of his auto mechanic friends. The friend's old, weathered barn was swarming with carpenter bees. There were holes and buzzings everywhere. The whole barn seemed to be vibrating. I wondered how long it could remain standing. I got close enough to watch them, but didn't make any sudden moves. I wasn't stung.

I don't know why bumblebees are so-named; maybe because of the sounds they make, or because they don't seem nimble. I expect that carpenter bees are called that because they work in wood and leave lots of sawdust. It doesn't seem to me that, other than making their own nests, carpenter bees build much else. They seem destructive to me. I've known carpenters like that.

I often see bumblebees or carpenter bees visiting orchards where I used to see honeybees. Fruits are set. They must serve useful purposes.

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Behind A Garden Wall: The Wesley Memorial Garden

Wesley Memorial Garden entrance - St. Simon's, GA

"About 3:00 in the afternoon, I first set foot on St. Simons Island and immediately my spirit revived." Charles Wesley, March 9, 1736.

My sentiments exactly when I visited, about the same hour, the Wesley Memorial Garden, "Dedicated To the Glory of God and in memory of the Reverends John and Charles Wesley."

John Wesley (1703-1791), M.A., Lincoln College, Oxford, was a priest of the Church of England. He was appointed to be a missionary to the Colony of Georgia. Though he wanted to be a missionary to the Indians, General James Oglethorpe, founder of the colony, assigned him to minister in Savannah. He was rector of Christ Church, Anglican, Savannah, from 1736 through 1737. John traveled occasionally to St. Simons to minister. He is most famous as a founder of Methodism.

John's brother, Charles Wesley (1707-1788), M.A., Christ Church College, Oxford, was also a priest of the Church of England, the first minister at Frederica on St. Simons. Charles was appointed as Oglethorpe's Secretary For Indian Affairs in 1736. Charles is best known as a Christian hymn writer and a co-founder of Methodism.

In 1984, A.W. Jones, Jr. proposed a gift of 20 acres to be divided equally between Christ Church, Frederica and the South Georgia Conference of the United Methodist Church providing that the two come together to create a memorial honoring the Wesley brothers. Each set aside one acre for the project, and established a foundation to maintain the memorial garden. The garden was designed and the construction overseen by Henry Derriel Green and Candace Brewer. The focal point of the garden is an 18', 15 ton Celtic cross, cut from Elberton, Georgia granite.

There are two ways for visitors to enter the garden. The most obvious is through the front, flanked by garden walls of tabby and brick. The celtic cross is immediately visible. Gravel paths approach and surround the monument, and lead through a garden of over 4,000 azaleas, boxwoods and other shrubs. Camellias, ferns, suitable perennials and annuals provide seasonal interest.

The other visitor approach is from a parking lot directly across the street from Christ Church, Frederica. Here the entrance is marked by a bronze plaque mounted on a tabby pile, and another bronze plaque recognizing Alfred W. Jones, Sr. (1902-1982) and Katherine T. Jones (1903-1986) whose vision made the memorial possible. This is the approach I prefer because it provides a short woodland walk through a native forest ornamented by azaleas and other species. A monumental muscadine vine drapes a tree immediately inside the entrance. If you take this approach, stay on the gravel path. Poison ivy lurks.

Bignonia capreolata, Gelsemium sempervirens and Wisteria sinensis may be blooming in spring. Bignonia is the least obvious, usually flowering high above the head, and barely visible unless fallen blossoms are noticed on the ground.

On two acres, you can walk through the garden, be in and out in less than 15 minutes. That might be all you want if you have no interest in the Wesley brothers, if the flowering shrubs aren't in bloom, or if the mosquitoes and gnats are swarming. Otherwise, there are benches for rest and contemplation.

The Wesley Memorial Garden is magnificent during the spring azalea bloom. Masses of purple, red, orange, pink and white dazzle the eye. Unfortunately, the season is too brief, and as I write, it's over. I missed it my last visit. My other favorite is during fall and winter when camellias are in bloom, with the added advantage that mosquitoes and gnats aren't around. In my opinion, there are too few camellias at the Wesley Memorial Garden. A few fine ones screen the Wesley United Methodist Church from the garden.

While visiting the Wesley Memorial Garden, you should also walk across the street to walk around the grounds of Christ Church, Frederica. The church has a very interesting history. The cemetery is a fine place to stroll, view iconic sculptures and aged vaults, and contemplate.

Historic Fort Frederica National Monument is also nearby. History buffs shouldn't miss it.

These and other worthwhile sites, such as the St. Simons lighthouse, Village, and beaches are only a short drive off I-95, and well-worth your time. Revive your spirit on St. Simons Island. Don't be in such a hurry. Stay the night.

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FAQ: What Garden tasks should I do in March?

Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for March organized by region.

Northeast States: Frost is possible. Continue pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines; but avoid removing spring flower buds. Maintain house plants, checking for disease and insects. Feed the birds. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, and asparagus, if you haven’t already. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Plant bare-root trees and shrubs. Sow warm-season annuals and vegetables in cold frame. Clean and oil garden tools.

Mid-Atlantic States: Frost is possible. Continue pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Avoid removing spring-blooming flower buds. Spray dormant oil on dormant fruit trees, if you haven’t done so yet. Refill bird feeders often. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary. Sow warm-season annuals and vegetables in cold frame. Plant bare-root trees and shrubs. Clean and oil garden tools.

Mid-South States: Late frost is possible. Continue pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Spray dormant oil on dormant fruit trees, if you haven’t done so yet. Continue planting and transplanting broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees as long as weather is above freezing. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant, if you haven't done it yet. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

Lower South and Gulf States: Finish dormant pruning of deciduous trees, shrubs and vines. Do not spray fruit trees with pesticides if flowers are in bloom. For that matter, don’t spray any flowering shrub or tree with pesticides while flowers are in bloom. Plant both cool and warm season herbs and vegetables. Plant summer-flowering bulbs and tubers. Continue dividing perennials. As spring blooming bulbs complete flowering, allow foliage to yellow and dry before removing. Fertilize shrubs, trees, perennials, and small fruits. Begin lawn care and maintenance: adjust lawn pH to 6.5, fertilize, mow grass to a low level, dethatch, aerate. Begin rose care program.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Follow the same regimen as for Northeast States.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Follow regimen for Lower South and Gulf States.

Pacific Northwest States: Follow the same regimen as for Mid-Atlantic States.

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Hi John! Have you heard of Moss Milkshake?

Q. Hi, John! Have you heard of Moss Milkshake? www.mossmilkshake.com. I've also read that you can make up your own mixture if you can get some moss. Do you think it would establish itself in a shaded spot with lots of an invasive violet? (The violets took over and actually work nicely under a tree, but leave a big bare area during the winter.)

A. Dear Lou, it's always good to hear from you. I confess that I often rebelled against ingesting my father's homeopathic remedies. I like real milkshakes derived from cow teats, cacao (pronounced "ca-COW"), vanilla from orchids, etc. My wife and daughter, however, prefer mixes resembling my dad's. I can't shake any of them. Whether their's contain mosses, I don't know, but I shouldn't wonder. 

My aunt, Ann R. Davis, however, taught me to appreciate nice things like violets and mosses growing together. Whether the mosses and/or violets seem invasive depends on your state of mind. Drench the violets with those moss-shakes, let them work together and enjoy whatever happens.

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What is diatomaceous earth? Will it kill beetles?

Diatoms - Public domain

Q. Little beetles are clustered on my peas, cabbage, and other plants. I've even seen them clustered on wooden posts! I've read that diatomaceous earth is a safe, natural insecticide. What is it? Will it kill them?

A. Diatomaceous earth consists of the fossilized, shell-like remains of gazillions of itty-bitty creatures called diatoms. They might have been algae or they might have been critters, or maybe both. I'm not sure. Diatomaceous earth looks safe, like white powder. For you, it's safe.

But, in a "who shrunk the kids" kind of way, diatomaceous remains are like teeny-tiny razors. Sharp and awful. Tiny soft-bodied creatures that crawl over them are cut to shreds. Their bellies are burst asunder, their liquids drain out, and they die. That's what we mild-mannered gardeners, naturally inclined, hope for.

Unfortunately, all pests are not soft-bodied. Some have hard shells. Beetles have hard shells. You might need something stronger.

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"There's something in these hills" - The South Carolina Botanical Garden at Clemson University

South Carolina Botanical Garden entrance - Clemson University

“There's something in these hills . . . the ability of an institution through the unending dedication and greatness of its people — its administration, its faculty, its staff, its students and its alumni — to impart to all it touches a respect, an admiration, an affection that stand firm in disquieting times when things around it give impressions of coming unglued… Yes, there's something in these hills where the Blue Ridge yawns its greatness.”

— Joe Sherman, Clemson University, Class of 1934, Director of Public and Alumni Relations

Sherman’s words, written in 1969, are as relevant today as they were then. The story of Clemson University is, to state the obvious, an inspiring one. The people and the place have made it so.
The place, at the foot of the Blue Ridge Mountains, was the site of Fort Rutledge, built in 1776. The fort was the idea of  General Andrew Williamson who was in command of the colonial forces in the area during the Revolutionary War. Williamson requested Governor John Rutledge for money to erect a defensive fort against British forces and allied Cherokees. His request was granted, probably because he promised to name the fort in honor of the governor.

The property was later owned by the John E. Calhoun family and descendants, who worked it as the Fort Hill Plantation.  In 1888, Thomas G. Clemson, the widower of Calhoun heiress, Anna Maria Calhoun, honored his wife’s desires and willed the property for the establishment of an agricultural college. The college opened in 1893 as an all-male military academy, later became co-educational, and eventually attained university status.

Part of Clemson’s story includes that of the South Carolina Botanical Garden. The garden began in 1958 as a camellia preserve adjacent to the Calhoun plantation, and has since grown to include over 295 acres of landscaped gardens and woodlands.  With so much to see, I recommend that you geta map online and print it off, or from the Hanson Discovery Center.  A paved drive leads to it from the main entrance.  While you’re there, you should take in the Campbell Geology Museum, which is landscaped to resemble a western mine. The Discovery Center and Geology Museum were closed the day I visited, but I thoroughly enjoyed walking around, viewing mineral displays, cacti and succulents in arid settings, manicured landscapes and container gardens.

The main parking lot on Pearman Boulevard provides a fine overlook of the Heritage Gardens. The Heritage Garden introduces visitors to the history of Clemson, principally its years as a military school, through a series of bronze reliefs and plaques within the Golden Tigers and Class of ’42 Cadet Life Garden. The complex includes trellised walkways, an amphitheater, and the colorful Caboose Garden (Class of ’39), dominated by a restored train caboose.

From there, visitors can meander through woodland gardens and landscaped open spaces via a system of winding trails. Informative signs mark the sections and give insight into the purposeful designs. Most of the gardens seem to have been partially funded by patrons, whose names they bear.
Near the entrance, the Hopkins Wildlife Habitat Garden displays plants and planting combinations that one might use, even in a home landscape, to provide food, water and shelter for wildlife. It’s a great place for children to watch for little creatures.

The Flower Display Garden is certain to provide ideas for the home landscape. Carefully planned combinations of annuals, perennials, shrubs and ornamental trees are delightful and thought-provoking.

The nearby Miller Dwarf Conifer Collection displays lovely cultivars that could easily be included in suburban gardens. Similarly, the adjacent Van Blaricom Xeriscape Garden demonstrates within its attractive panorama how to xeriscape, i.e. to landscape with plants, such as sedum, that have low moisture requirements.

The South Carolina Botanical Garden began as a camellia collection near what is now the football field. It was moved to its present location on the banks of a duck pond. The Camellia Trail is best visited from November through April when they are in bloom. Unfortunately, I visited the Camellia Trail in summer, but the scenery was pleasant.

From the camellia collection, the trail winds downhill to cross the Earthen Bridge. The bridge serves not only to cross a small stream by the duck pond, but as a functional sculpture.

Within the botanical garden is the historic Hanover House, and the Heirloom Vegetable Garden behind it. The Hanover House (circa 1716) was originally situated in Berkeley County, SC and was the home of French Huguenot, Paul de St. Julien. Threatened with being inundated by the waters of Lake Moultrie in 1914, it was moved to the Clemson campus. Ironically, much of Clemson’s campus was also threatened later with inundation by the creation of Lake Hartwell by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.

Education is at the heart of the South Carolina Botanical Garden, and it certainly extends to young children. Several gardens located in close proximity meet their needs: the Peter Rabbit Garden, Butterfly Garden, Ethnobotany Garden, Food for Thought Garden, and Pollinator Border. I loved them all, and admired the creative minds of designers who were able even to make a large propane tank look like it belonged.

The trail system continues through woodlands, over small streams, and to nature-based sculptures such as The Crucible. One might come upon it without a map in hand and think it’s a historic relic, perhaps a source of water for Cherokee people or early settlers who lived nearby. In a sense it is a historic relic, but not so old. The Crucible was installed in 1995 by sculptor Herb Parker.

Natural Dialogue is another nature-based sculpture that you should visit. Stop to think.

My wanderings eventually brought me to the Hunt Cabin (circa 1826). It originally stood near Seneca, SC, but, when threatened with demolition, was moved to the Clemson campus in 1935. The setting is appropriate, and seems original. You’ll get a glimpse of 19^th century life, and read about the hospitality that was shown there, even to scoundrels like William T. Sherman (not related to Joe, I hope).

Returning to my vehicle, I strolled through the Charles and Betty Cruickshank Hosta Garden, taking lots of pictures as I went.  Hostas are among the most popular perennials in American gardens. The Cruickshank Hosta Garden is an official American Hosta Society Display Garden, so you’ll see plenty of them. Keep your camera clicking as you examine some you might want for your own perennial border.

These highlights are but a few of the many you can enjoy in the South Carolina Botanical Garden. Though there were plenty of visitors exploring the grounds, I appreciated the much needed sense of serenity that we often need “in disquieting times” when the world seems like it’s “coming unglued.” Yes, “there’s something in these hills” for you.

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FAQ: What garden tasks should I do in February?

Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for February organized by region.

Northeast States: Continue pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines; but avoid removing spring flower buds. Continue removing snow from evergreens to avoid limb damage. Inspect indoor plants for disease and insects. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb and asparagus, if you haven’t already. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Clean and oil garden tools.

Mid-Atlantic States: Continue pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines; but avoid removing spring flower buds.  Maintain house plants, checking for disease and insects. Feed the birds. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, and asparagus, if you haven’t already. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Plant bare-root trees and shrubs. Sow warm-season annuals and vegetables in cold frame. Clean and oil garden tools. Take soil samples to your local CooperativeExtension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

Mid-South States: Continue pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines.  Avoid removing spring-blooming flower buds. Spray dormant oil on dormant fruit trees, if you haven’t done so yet. Refill bird feeders often. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary. Sow warm-season annuals and vegetables in cold frame. Plant bare-root trees and shrubs. Clean and oil garden tools.

Lower South and Gulf States: Continue pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Spray dormant oil on dormant fruit trees, if you haven’t done so yet.  Continue planting and transplanting broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees as long as weather is above freezing. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant, if you haven't done it yet. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Follow the same regimen as for Northeast States.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Follow regimen for Lower South and Gulf States.

Pacific Northwest States: Follow the same regimen as for Mid-Atlantic States.

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FAQ: What is a scaffold limb?

Q. What is a scaffold limb?

A. Looking up the definition at Dictionary.com, I found one that could that apply: any raised framework.

The plant (shrub, tree or vine) scaffold consists of the largest, strongest limbs or branches which form the main structure of the plant. In some of my blog articles and Youtube videos, I point out the importance of training a strong scaffold, beginning while the plant is very young. A strong and properly trained scaffold will allow the plant to withstand wind, snow loads, and fruit with minimal limb breakage.

Here are four examples:


Prunus persica (peach)


Vitis rotundifolia (Muscadine grape vine)


Acer palmatum var. dissectum 'Tamukeyama' (Japanese maple)


Magnolia denudata (Yulan magnolia)

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Sign: "WE WILL NO LONGER ACCEPT MONEY OUT OF UNDERGARMENTS"

This post has absolutely nothing to do with horticulture. My oldest son sent this picture to me. I don't know where he found it. He used to work for me in my garden shop. We know what it's like to be on the receiving end.

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FAQ: Is Carolina Jessamine salt tolerant?

(Note: I'm often asked whether certain plants are salt tolerant. I intend to address the subject generally in a later blog article.) 

Q. We are interested in purchasing some Carolina Jessamine, but have a question.  We plan to use it to climb on a pergola at our beachfront home.  The local county agricultural extension agent says that it is salt-tolerant.  What do you think?  Do you know of anyone who has grown in successfully in a beachfront environment?

A. I can not think of a specific beachfront property where I've seen Gelsemium sempervirens growing, but that's probably because it is so ubiquitous in S. GA. I've seen it growing in the wild all over Skidaway Island. I was on Jekyll Island recently, and saw plenty of it near the rivers and beach.

A paper, SALT TOLERANT PLANTS Recommended for Pender County Landscapes published by Cooperative Extension Service, Pender County, NC, shows Gelsemium as being moderately salt tolerant.

I could not find a similar document from your state that names Gelsemium, but if it's salt-tolerant in NC it's salt-tolerant where you live.

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Beardtongue - More Appealing Than It Sounds

Penstemon x mexicali 'Prairie Twilight'

The name, "Beard-tongue", doesn't sound at all appealing. Monstrous, perhaps. Or a symptom of illness. Yet, among plants, the Beard-tongue is much more appealing than it sounds. The name belongs to the genus, Penstemon (pronounced PEN-stem-on) and refers to the flowers' five stamens - 4 fertile and 1 infertile. Trumpet-shaped penstemon flowers more or less resemble open mouths. The infertile stamen, protruding through the mouth, suggests the common name. This photo by Walter Siegmund appearing at Wikipedia, shows a good example.

Penstemon flower - closeup

Or is that Mick Jagger coughing up a hairball?

Penstemon is a large genus including over 250 species. Most are native to North America. As you can see from the PLANTS Profile map, they enjoy a very wide distribution, and may be found from alpine to desert environments. In addition to the species, very many hybrids have been developed. Many of the newer ones are derived from Mexican species. Though hardiness differs by species and hybrid, they tend to share other requirements - full sun to partial shade, well-drained soil, pH between 6.1 to 7.8.

Flower spikes, rising above the foliage, generally blossom from June through September. Species range in height from 4 inches to 72 inches. As you might expect, the shorter species tend to be more cold-hardy. Foliage is usually evergreen. I recommend them for alpine gardens, rock gardens, low perennial borders, hanging baskets and and containers.

Tall penstemons are wonderful in groupings, adding height, color and texture to mixed annual and perennial borders. They're marvelous for cut flowers. All penstemons attract butterflies and hummingbirds.

Though penstemon's have enjoyed mild popularity since the 19th century, the selection of Penstemon digitalis 'Husker Red' as the 1996 Perennial Plant of the Year sent their popularity soaring. Consequently, many new varieties and hybrids have been developed.

When choosing penstemons for your perennial garden, select those which are hardy in your climate zone. The USDA climate zone map is an indispensable resource. If the ones you like are not hardy in your area, don't despair, they can be treated as annuals. If only semi-hardy, a good layer of mulch over winter may protect the crowns enough to survive.

Before planting, take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. Follow their instructions. If amendments are recommended, incorporate them into the soil when cultivating. Cultivate to a depth of 10 inches. Remember, good drainage is essential.

You might wonder whether penstemon has any known medicinal attributes. As a matter of fact, various species do. Herbal Medicine of the American Southwest, by Charles Kane, says that penstemon has been used as a poultice for skin wounds, insect bites and rashes. HerbNET reports that penstemon has also been used to relieve toothache, stomachache, chest pains, fever and chills.

In review, penstemons are wonderful for cut flowers, and for attracting hummingbirds and butterflies. They're also fine for xeriscaping. Those with medicinal herb gardens may consider including penstemon in their collections. With so many species and hybrids available, you're sure to find several that are appropriate for your garden.

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FAQ: What garden tasks should I do in January?

Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for January organized by region.

Northeast States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance. Remove snow from evergreens to avoid limb damage. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus for later delivery. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones.
Mid-Atlantic States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines.  Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus for later delivery. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed.

Mid-South States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines.  Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance. Begin spraying dormant oil on dormant fruit trees. Feed house plants, and inspect them for insects and disease and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus for later delivery. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

Lower South and Gulf States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines.  Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance.Begin spraying dormant oil on dormant fruit trees.  Continue planting and transplanting broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees as long as weather is above freezing. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant, if you haven't done it yet. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, asparagus for later delivery. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Follow the same regimen as for Northeast States.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Follow regimen for Lower South and Gulf States.

Pacific Northwest States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines.  Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance. Begin spraying dormant oil on dormant fruit trees. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant, if you haven't already. Remove snow from evergreens to avoid damage. Maintain house plants. Refill bird bath. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus for later delivery. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

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Centaurea - Stars In Your Garden

Centaurea montana 'Amethyst In Snow'

"What ridge of the pasturing woodlands must I traverse to summon old lifebringing Cheiron to help your wound? Or where can I find medicines, the secrets of Paieon the Healer's painassuaging art? Would that I had what they call the herb centaury, that I might bind the flower of no-pain upon your limbs, and bring you back safe and living from Haides whence none returns! What magic hymn have I, or song from the stars, that I may chant the ditty with Euian voice divine, and stay the flow of blood from your wounded side? Would I had here beside me the fountain of life, that I might pour on your limbs that painstilling water and assuage your adorable wound, to bring back even your soul to you again!" Nonnus, Dionysiaca, Book 35, line 60ff.

Raised in a family of homoeopathic physicians, I traversed Appalachian woodlands with them in search of botanical remedies. "Boys, now, boys," Pop would say with weighty pauses as he stopped us to probe herbs with his staff, "this is...." Then he'd tell us of their medicinal properties. For him and his sons, the doctors, the hikes were born of compassion for their patients.



For us grandchildren, they were adventures. I do remember hearing of centaury, Centaurium, or maybe it was Centaurea.

"Lifebringing Cheiron", mentioned by Nonnus, was a seminal figure in the ancient Western world for his mastery of medicine. Pliny the Elder wrote in his Natural History that Cheiron actually discovered botany and pharmacy. Cheiron (aka Chiron, Kheiron), however, was not a man, but a centaur - half man and half horse. A different kind of centaur, he was more intelligent and not given to drunkenness like the rest.

Cheiron was sired by Kronos (aka Saturn), a titan of mythical proportions. Kronos was romping with a nymph, Philyra, when his wife/consort Rhea showed up unexpectedly. Kronos quickly turned himself into a stallion to avoid recognition, and proudly galloped away. Philyra, pregnant and abandoned, gave birth to Cheiron. Stung by the ignominy, Philyra begged Kronos to turn her into a linden tree (Tilia spp), which he did.

Though (or perhaps because) he was half horse, Cheiron was lucky. He lived. Kronos ate most of his other sons.

Cheiron, not hobbled by his circumstances, turned out well. He became a master of the healing arts, and taught others. Consequently, we've all benefited. Asclepius, one of Cheiron's most accomplished students, traveled to Cos where he inspired Hippocrates. There Hippocrates established a medical school from whence healing knowledge was disseminated, passed down through the ages, eventually studied by my grandfather and father, and here I am telling you about it!

Cheiron has been immortalized in the names of various plants. Centaurea is one of them. There are about 40 species and subspecies of Centaurea thriving in North America, some of them naturalized from Europe. Of those, nearly half are commercially available as ornamental plants. The rest are either not desirable or heartily despised.

As you may have guessed, Centaurea was so named because of purported medicinal qualities. C. montana is sometimes use in Europe as an eyewash. The dried flowers made into tea are also said to break up mucous congestion, cleanse the kidneys and generally de-toxify the body, and act as astringent mouthwash.

You may recognize some of the common names: Bachelors Button, Basketflower, Centaury (a name mostly associated with Centaurium, which is a different genus), Cornflower, Dusty Miller, Knapweed, Mountain Bluet, Starthistle.

Hardiness varies according to species. Among the most popular are C. cineraria and C. cyanus. Not cold hardy, they are grown as annuals or tender perennials. C. montana, one of my favorites, is a hardy perennial, thriving in USDA climate zones 4 through 8. The many star-like flowers remind me of a constellation in the garden.

Centaurea prefers average, well-drained soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8. Choose a site in full sun or partial shade. Take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. Follow the recommendations.

If the soil is compacted, till to a depth of 10 inches. Add amendments, if necessary. Remove all traces of weeds. Seeds of C. cyanus may be sown in rows or gently sprinkled on the surface and lightly covered. Space container grown C. cineraria 12 inches to 18 inches apart. Space C. montana 18 inches to 24 inches apart. Water the plants in the pots, and allow to drain. Plant no deeper than they grew in the pots; in other words, don't bury them. Gently water as  you back-fill with soil. 

C. cineraria is usually grown for its foliage. C. cyanus and C. montana are grown for their flowers. All are reasonably drought-tolerant and deer-resistant. Use them for xeriscaping, butterfly gardens, cut flowers, mixed annual and perennial borders. Many gardeners like to establish theme gardens. Centaurea is perfect for heirloom plant collections and medicinal gardens.

You might be wondering what became of those characters I mentioned before. Here's a brief summary.

Asclepius knew too much, having discovered the secret to immortality. Zeus killed him with a thunderbolt to keep the secret from getting out.

Cheiron died of a poison arrow in the foot, and now resides in the heavens as the constellation Sagittarius.

The doctors are deceased, except for one who is alive and well at 95 years old.

Hippocrates died. Physicians recite his Oath.

Kronos (Saturn) is still ticking.

Philyra is still sung and danced about.

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