Among the most
frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near
the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for February organized by
region.
Northeast States: Continue
pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines; but avoid removing spring
flower buds. Continue removing snow from evergreens to avoid limb damage. Inspect
indoor plants for disease and insects. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed
catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets,
strawberries, rhubarb and asparagus, if you haven’t already. Check bulbs and
roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Clean and oil garden tools.
Mid-Atlantic States: Continue
pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines; but avoid removing spring
flower buds. Maintain house plants, checking
for disease and insects. Feed the birds. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web
sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, and
asparagus, if you haven’t already. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw
out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Plant bare-root trees
and shrubs. Sow warm-season annuals and vegetables in cold frame. Clean and oil
garden tools. Take soil samples to your local CooperativeExtension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.
Mid-South States: Continue
pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines.
Avoid removing spring-blooming flower buds. Spray dormant oil on dormant
fruit trees, if you haven’t done so yet. Refill bird feeders often. Add mulch
to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative
Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary. Sow warm-season
annuals and vegetables in cold frame. Plant bare-root trees and shrubs. Clean
and oil garden tools.
Lower South and Gulf
States: Continue pruning dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Spray dormant
oil on dormant fruit trees, if you haven’t done so yet. Continue planting and transplanting broadleaf
and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Continue to
irrigate shrubs and trees as long as weather is above freezing. Fertilize trees
and shrubs when dormant, if you haven't done it yet. Add mulch to planting
beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service
for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.
Plains and Rocky
Mountain States: Follow the same regimen as for Northeast States.
Pacific Southwest and
Desert States: Follow regimen for Lower South and Gulf States.
Pacific Northwest
States: Follow the same regimen as for Mid-Atlantic States.
A. Looking up the definition at Dictionary.com, I found one that could that apply: any raised framework.
The plant (shrub, tree or vine) scaffold consists of the largest, strongest limbs or branches which form the main structure of the plant. In some of my blog articles and Youtube videos, I point out the importance of training a strong scaffold, beginning while the plant is very young. A strong and properly trained scaffold will allow the plant to withstand wind, snow loads, and fruit with minimal limb breakage.
Here are four examples:
Prunus persica (peach)
Vitis rotundifolia (Muscadine grape vine)
Acer palmatum var. dissectum 'Tamukeyama' (Japanese maple)
This post has absolutely nothing to do with horticulture. My oldest son sent this picture to me. I don't know where he found it. He used to work for me in my garden shop. We know what it's like to be on the receiving end.
(Note: I'm often asked whether certain plants are salt tolerant. I intend to address the subject generally in a later blog article.) Q. We are interested in purchasing some Carolina Jessamine, but have a
question. We plan to use it to climb on a pergola at our beachfront
home. The local county agricultural extension agent says
that it is salt-tolerant. What do you think? Do you know of anyone who
has grown in successfully in a beachfront environment?
A. I can not think of a specific beachfront property where I've seen
Gelsemium sempervirens growing, but that's probably because it is so ubiquitous in S.
GA. I've seen it growing in the wild all over Skidaway Island. I was on Jekyll Island recently, and saw plenty of it near
the rivers and beach.
The name, "Beard-tongue", doesn't sound at all appealing. Monstrous, perhaps. Or a symptom of illness. Yet, among plants, the Beard-tongue is much more appealing than it sounds. The name belongs to the genus, Penstemon (pronounced PEN-stem-on) and refers to the flowers' five stamens - 4 fertile and 1 infertile. Trumpet-shaped penstemon flowers more or less resemble open mouths. The infertile stamen, protruding through the mouth, suggests the common name. This photo by Walter Siegmund appearing at Wikipedia, shows a good example.
Penstemon flower - closeup
Or is that Mick Jagger coughing up a hairball?
Penstemon is a large genus including over 250 species. Most are native to North America. As you can see from the PLANTS Profile map, they enjoy a very wide distribution, and may be found from alpine to desert environments. In addition to the species, very many hybrids have been developed. Many of the newer ones are derived from Mexican species. Though hardiness differs by species and hybrid, they tend to share other requirements - full sun to partial shade, well-drained soil, pH between 6.1 to 7.8.
Flower spikes, rising above the foliage, generally blossom from June through September. Species range in height from 4 inches to 72 inches. As you might expect, the shorter species tend to be more cold-hardy. Foliage is usually evergreen. I recommend them for alpine gardens, rock gardens, low perennial borders, hanging baskets and and containers.
Tall penstemons are wonderful in groupings, adding height, color and texture to mixed annual and perennial borders. They're marvelous for cut flowers. All penstemons attract butterflies and hummingbirds.
Though penstemon's have enjoyed mild popularity since the 19th century, the selection of Penstemon digitalis 'Husker Red' as the 1996 Perennial Plant of the Year sent their popularity soaring. Consequently, many new varieties and hybrids have been developed.
When choosing penstemons for your perennial garden, select those which are hardy in your climate zone. The USDA climate zone map is an indispensable resource. If the ones you like are not hardy in your area, don't despair, they can be treated as annuals. If only semi-hardy, a good layer of mulch over winter may protect the crowns enough to survive.
Before planting, take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. Follow their instructions. If amendments are recommended, incorporate them into the soil when cultivating. Cultivate to a depth of 10 inches. Remember, good drainage is essential.
You might wonder whether penstemon has any known medicinal attributes. As a matter of fact, various species do. Herbal Medicine of the American Southwest, by Charles Kane, says that penstemon has been used as a poultice for skin wounds, insect bites and rashes. HerbNET reports that penstemon has also been used to relieve toothache, stomachache, chest pains, fever and chills.
In review, penstemons are wonderful for cut flowers, and for attracting hummingbirds and butterflies. They're also fine for xeriscaping. Those with medicinal herb gardens may consider including penstemon in their collections. With so many species and hybrids available, you're sure to find several that are appropriate for your garden.
Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for January organized by region.
Northeast States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance. Remove snow from evergreens to avoid limb damage. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus for later delivery. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones.
Mid-Atlantic States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus for later delivery. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed.
Mid-South States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance. Begin spraying dormant oil on dormant fruit trees. Feed house plants, and inspect them for insects and disease and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus for later delivery. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.
Lower South and Gulf States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance.Begin spraying dormant oil on dormant fruit trees. Continue planting and transplanting broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees as long as weather is above freezing. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant, if you haven't done it yet. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, asparagus for later delivery. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.
Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Follow the same regimen as for Northeast States.
Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Follow regimen for Lower South and Gulf States.
Pacific Northwest States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance. Begin spraying dormant oil on dormant fruit trees. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant, if you haven't already. Remove snow from evergreens to avoid damage. Maintain house plants. Refill bird bath. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus for later delivery. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.
"What ridge of the pasturing woodlands must I traverse to summon old lifebringing Cheiron to help your wound? Or where can I find medicines, the secrets of Paieon the Healer's painassuaging art? Would that I had what they call the herb centaury, that I might bind the flower of no-pain upon your limbs, and bring you back safe and living from Haides whence none returns! What magic hymn have I, or song from the stars, that I may chant the ditty with Euian voice divine, and stay the flow of blood from your wounded side? Would I had here beside me the fountain of life, that I might pour on your limbs that painstilling water and assuage your adorable wound, to bring back even your soul to you again!" Nonnus, Dionysiaca, Book 35, line 60ff.
Raised in a family of homoeopathic physicians, I traversed Appalachian woodlands with them in search of botanical remedies. "Boys, now, boys," Pop would say with weighty pauses as he stopped us to probe herbs with his staff, "this is...." Then he'd tell us of their medicinal properties. For him and his sons, the doctors, the hikes were born of compassion for their patients.
For us grandchildren, they were adventures. I do remember hearing of centaury, Centaurium, or maybe it was Centaurea.
"Lifebringing Cheiron", mentioned by Nonnus, was a seminal figure in the ancient Western world for his mastery of medicine. Pliny the Elder wrote in his Natural History that Cheiron actually discovered botany and pharmacy. Cheiron (aka Chiron, Kheiron), however, was not a man, but a centaur - half man and half horse. A different kind of centaur, he was more intelligent and not given to drunkenness like the rest.
Cheiron was sired by Kronos (aka Saturn), a titan of mythical proportions. Kronos was romping with a nymph, Philyra, when his wife/consort Rhea showed up unexpectedly. Kronos quickly turned himself into a stallion to avoid recognition, and proudly galloped away. Philyra, pregnant and abandoned, gave birth to Cheiron. Stung by the ignominy, Philyra begged Kronos to turn her into a linden tree (Tilia spp), which he did.
Cheiron, not hobbled by his circumstances, turned out well. He became a master of the healing arts, and taught others. Consequently, we've all benefited. Asclepius, one of Cheiron's most accomplished students, traveled to Cos where he inspired Hippocrates. There Hippocrates established a medical school from whence healing knowledge was disseminated, passed down through the ages, eventually studied by my grandfather and father, and here I am telling you about it!
Cheiron has been immortalized in the names of various plants. Centaurea is one of them. There are about 40 species and subspecies of Centaurea thriving in North America, some of them naturalized from Europe. Of those, nearly half are commercially available as ornamental plants. The rest are either not desirable or heartily despised.
As you may have guessed, Centaurea was so named because of purported medicinal qualities. C. montana is sometimes use in Europe as an eyewash. The dried flowers made into tea are also said to break up mucous congestion, cleanse the kidneys and generally de-toxify the body, and act as astringent mouthwash.
You may recognize some of the common names: Bachelors Button, Basketflower, Centaury (a name mostly associated with Centaurium, which is a different genus), Cornflower, Dusty Miller, Knapweed, Mountain Bluet, Starthistle.
Hardiness varies according to species. Among the most popular are C. cineraria and C. cyanus. Not cold hardy, they are grown as annuals or tender perennials. C. montana, one of my favorites, is a hardy perennial, thriving in USDA climate zones 4 through 8. The many star-like flowers remind me of a constellation in the garden.
Centaurea prefers average, well-drained soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8. Choose a site in full sun or partial shade. Take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. Follow the recommendations.
If the soil is compacted, till to a depth of 10 inches. Add amendments, if necessary. Remove all traces of weeds. Seeds of C. cyanus may be sown in rows or gently sprinkled on the surface and lightly covered. Space container grown C. cineraria 12 inches to 18 inches apart. Space C. montana 18 inches to 24 inches apart. Water the plants in the pots, and allow to drain. Plant no deeper than they grew in the pots; in other words, don't bury them. Gently water as you back-fill with soil.
C. cineraria is usually grown for its foliage. C. cyanus and C. montana are grown for their flowers. All are reasonably drought-tolerant and deer-resistant. Use them for xeriscaping, butterfly gardens, cut flowers, mixed annual and perennial borders. Many gardeners like to establish theme gardens. Centaurea is perfect for heirloom plant collections and medicinal gardens.
You might be wondering what became of those characters I mentioned before. Here's a brief summary.
Asclepius knew too much, having discovered the secret to immortality. Zeus killed him with a thunderbolt to keep the secret from getting out.
Cheiron died of a poison arrow in the foot, and now resides in the heavens as the constellation Sagittarius.
The doctors are deceased, except for one who is alive and well at 95 years old.
Q. What is the best way to rid my garden of nematodes?
A. I don't know of any chemical nematicide that is labeled for use in the home garden by the homeowner. So the simplest way would be to solarize your garden.
Solarizing is best done during hot weather of summer. Before planting, remove debris from the garden. Till the soil and rake it smooth. Irrigate briefly to moisten the soil. Spread a large, clear sheet of plastic over the garden.
I recommend you use heavy-duty plastic, otherwise holes may develop allowing hot air to escape. Bury the edges, then add weights around the perimeter. You may also need to distribute weights over the sheet to prevent wind from pulling the center up. Concrete blocks or buckets of sand will work fine. For good measure, you may spread a second sheet above the first, resting it on the distributed weights around the center. Bury the edges and weight around the perimeter, as before. This will create a greenhouse effect with more hot air trapped above the first sheet. Leave the plastic in place for 6 weeks or so.
Remove the plastic when you're ready to plant. This method heats the soil to a depth of 6 or 8 inches sufficient to kill nematodes. This is also a good method to kill weed seeds before planting.
Sometimes a detour from the busy highway leads to enchantment. That's especially true in the storied Hudson River Valley where all thruways and traffic seem to be sucked into New York City, and figuring where to exit can be a startling discovery in the rear-view mirror.
After a day in Manhattan, I wanted respite. My son and daughter-in-law knew where to find it. Ducking under I-87, we slowed onto Sunnyside Lane finally coming to rest at the home of Washington Irving.
Irving (1783-1859) was one of America's earliest authors of international renown. While most writers were publishing books of practical value, Irving was penning for pleasure, while his readers enjoyed his writings at least as much. His Tales of the Alhambra has enticed travelers since 1832. Irving's Sketch Book has delighted readers with magical tales such as "The Legend of Sleepy Hollow" and "Rip Van Winkle." Those, of course, were inspired by tales of his beloved Hudson River Valley.
Near what he called the "wizard region of Sleepy Hollow", Irving purchased a small cottage known as "The Roost" overlooking the river and began adding to it in 1835. "I have had an architect there," he wrote, "and shall build a mansion upon the place this summer. My idea is to make a little nookery, somewhat in the Dutch style, quaint but unpretending.” The new architectural elements included motifs characteristic of New York Dutch and places he loved in Spain and Scotland. He named it "Sunnyside."
He described it in his book, Wolfert's Roost and Miscellanies (1855). "About five-and-twenty miles from the ancient and renowned city of Manhattan, formerly called New-Amsterdam, and vulgarly called New-York, on the eastern bank of that expansion of the Hudson, known among Dutch mariners of yore, as the Tappan Zee, being in fact the great Mediterranean Sea of the New-Netherlands, stands a little old-fashioned stone mansion, all made up of gable-ends, and as full of angles and corners as an old cocked hat. Though but of small dimensions, yet, like many small people, it is of mighty spirit, and values itself greatly on its antiquity, being one of the oldest edifices, for its size, in the whole country. It claims to be an ancient seat of empire, I may rather say an empire in itself, and like all empires, great and small, has had its grand historical epochs. In speaking of this doughty and valorous little pile, I shall call it by its usual appellation of 'The Roost.'"
Irving wrote much about its history and more about its former owners, then gleefully announced, "I have become possessor of the Roost! I have repaired and renovated it with religious care, in the genuine Dutch style, and have adorned and illustrated it with sundry reliques of the glorious days of the New Netherlands. A venerable weathercock, of portly Dutch dimensions, which once battled with the wind on the top of the Stadt-House of New Amsterdam, in the time of Peter Stuyvesant, now erects its crest on the gable end of my edifice; a gilded horse in full gallop, once the weathercock of the great Vander Heyden Palace of Albany, now glitters in the sunshine, and veers with every breeze, on the peaked turret over my portal; my sanctum sanctorum is the chamber once honored by the illustrious Diedrich, and it is from his elbow-chair, and his identical old Dutch writing-desk, that I pen this rambling epistle."
Irving landscaped the property in an appropriate rustic style. A long curving drive led downhill and passed a small pond which he called his "Little Mediterranean." There he would sit in clement weather to draw inspiration and write. A small orchard not only provided necessary fruit but enhanced the scene as it satisfied his interest in growing things. He planted climbing vines such as trumpet creeper (Campsis radicans), English ivy (Hedera helix) and wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) against the edifice, which remain to this day. Visitors will also find a small gardener's cottage surrounded by flowers and vegetables.
It was and remains an enchanting place, but think it was more so in its early days. A comfortable sitting room with plenty of glass opened onto the river view. Irving, his family and guests could rest on the veranda, stroll down the gentle slope to sun on a small beach, go boating, or fish.
Unfortunately the idyll was corrupted when the railroad was constructed between "Sunnyside" and the Hudson. His quiet retreat with its unspoiled vista and fresh river breezes was often interrupted by the iron behemoth belching coal smoke. Irving was furious, of course, fuming that they'd build a railroad through heaven, if they could. The "iron horse" has been replaced by less interesting engines, and the nearby Tappan Zee Bridge conveys thousands of vehicles across the Hudson each day.
Tours of Sunnyside are conducted by docents, dressed in period clothing, who are very knowledgeable about "Sunnyside" and Washington Irving. As we got to know our guide better, we learned that she was also well-acquainted with Savannah, my hometown, and Charleston, where she once lived. It was fun to discover that affinity.
You can buy individual tickets on site. If you live in the area, check online at Historic Hudson Valley to learn about various levels of membership that will allow "affordable, close-to-home fun along the Hudson." There are grander estates waiting for you to explore, and events to experience!
Not far from "Sunnyside", you'll find the Old Dutch Church of Sleepy Hollow where Washington Irving is buried. Walk around the church and explore the cemetery. It's free. You'll find lots of other notables buried there. Take US 9 north to Tarrytown. The Old Dutch Church address is 430 North Broadway, Sleepy Hollow, NY 10591.
There is an ancient sycamore tree near Sunnyside's lane that has the distinction of being recognized jointly by The Internation Society of Arboriculture and The National Arborist Association in 1976 as a Bicentennial Tree, "having lived here during the American Revolutionary period." It's humbling to be in the presence of something so old that has weathered the winds of change. I'm reminded of another old tree within the walls of the Alhambra which Washington Irving is said to have mused to be the “only surviving witness to the wonders of that age of Al-Andalus.”
Q. It's forecast for the temperature to drop into the "teens" tonight. I'm afraid that some of my plants will be damaged by the cold. I can't dig them up and bring them inside. What should I cover them with?
A. First, let me say what you should NOT drape them with: plastic. Plastic does not allow for air or moisture exchange. That may seem like a good thing, but isn't. While plastic will trap heat, it does it too well. When the sun comes out, the air beneath the plastic will heat and your plants will cook. Not only that, moisture will condense under the plastic and likely freeze during the night. Foliage in contact with the plastic and frozen condensation will be damaged.
Though advanced materials are available on the market, you probably don't have time to find and purchase them. So cover your plants with cotton fabric. Old bed sheets will do just fine. They are relatively light weight, so shouldn't mash your plants. But if you're concerned about that, use some tall garden stakes to elevate the sheets above the plants.
Q. I get very frustrated with my forced paperwhite narcissus plants. They get too tall and fall over. Do you have any suggestions?
A. I have two suggestions. The first is very simple. Loosely tie a decorative ribbon around the bowl when you set the bulbs in it. As the foliage and flower stems lengthen, slip the ribbon upward.
The other suggestion is to set the new bulbs in the bottom of a clear glass vase about 12 inches tall. You will be able to enjoy watching the foliage and flowers extend upward, while the vase prevents them from flopping over.
Not sure of visiting hours, I arrived at The Fragrant Garden in Forsyth Park, Savannah, Georgia in the nick of time. Peggy, the docent, was locking the gate. But since we're friends, she left the entrance ajar with assurance I'd secure it on my way out.
When in the Fragrant Garden, Peggy invites passers-by to come in for awhile. Then she tells of its history and points out interesting things in her sweet Savannah voice.
The idea for a fragrant garden for the blind was conceived by Jessie Dixon Saylor (1896-1987), collector of customs for the Port of Savannah from 1954 to 1961. (Mrs. Saylor was the wife of Maj. Gen. Henry B. Saylor (1893-1970). Both were close friends of President and Mrs. Eisenhower.*) The Fragrant Garden was inspired, I believe, by the Tennant Lake Fragrance Garden near Ferndale, WA, which she had visited. Mrs. Saylor circulated the idea in Savannah, and it was embraced in 1959 by the Garden Club Council of Chatham County. The garden was designed by Landscape Architect Georges Bignault, and dedicated in the spring of 1963. I remember well those days of childhood when I played in the park. Our house on Whitaker Street was within sight.
The fragrant garden consists of a small parterre and fountain, roses, raised beds planted with fragrant species, and identifying plaques in braille. An ornate stone bench affords a shady place to rest and reflect. The old walls contain the scented air; small birds and splashing water enliven it.
The entrance gates, set in an ornamental iron fence, once belonged to the Old Union Station. Sadly, the Station was demolished in 1963 to make way for Interstate 16 entering Savannah. The gates were given in memory of Frances S. Littlefield by The Gordonston Garden Club and Friends. Littlefield, a longtime member of The Gordonston Garden Club, was the first nationally accredited Flower Show judge in Chatham County, Georgia.
The Fragrant Garden was neglected and run-down for a number of years, overtaken by weeds, ne'er-do-wells and worse. Recent renovation by the Trustees' Garden Club according to a plan by landscape designer John McEllen, and policing have restored it to its former beauty.
The following is a partial list of fragrant genera and species on display:
Speaking of the braille plaques in an interview with the Savannah Morning News, Walt Simmons, executive director of the Savannah Association for the Blind, said, "An even more useful tool would be a voice recording to explain what the species are, since the vast majority of visually impaired people are not fluent in Braille." But no recording can replace Peggy's dulcet voice.
* Albert Merriman Smith, Backstairs At The White House, UPI, April 21, 1959.
Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for December organized by region.
Northeast States: Pot up narcissus and amaryllis (Hippeastrum) for forcing. Pot up spring bulbs for forcing. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often.
Mid-Atlantic States: Pot up paperwhite narcissus and amaryllis (Hippeastrum) for forcing. Pot up spring bulbs for forcing. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often.
Mid-South States: Finish planting and transplanting trees and shrubs. Pot up paperwhite narcissus and amaryllis (Hippeastrum) for forcing. Pot up spring bulbs for forcing. Feed house plants, and inspect them for insects and disease and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often.
Lower South and Gulf States: Continue planting and transplanting broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Finish plant winter-blooming annuals. Continue planting cool-season vegetables. Pot up paperwhite narcissus and amaryllis (Hippeastrum) for forcing. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees as long as weather is above freezing. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often.
Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Follow the same regimen as for Northeast States.
Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Follow regimen for Lower South and Gulf States.
Pacific Northwest States: Finish planting and transplanting broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Divide perennials and transplant. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Pot up spring-flowering bulbs for forcing. Plant cool-season vegetables. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant. Maintain house plants. Refill bird bath. Refill bird feeders often.
Q. We are considering purchasing daylilies for mass planting in our yard. However, we have areas that only get 2 to 3 hours of direct sun each day. Would the 2 to 3 hours of full sun give the plant enough light to fully bloom?
A. If the shade is not deep, you should get sufficient bloom. However, the plants may not be as dense, compact, floriferous as in full sun. The more sun the better, but daylilies will perform under less than ideal conditions.
Oh, what a glory doth the world put on These peerless, perfect autumn days There is a beautiful spirit of gladness everywhere. The wooded waysides are luminous with brightly painted leaves; The forest-trees with royal grace have donned Their gorgeous autumn tapestries; And even the rocks and fences are broidered With ferns, sumachs and brilliantly tinted ivies. But so exquisitely blended are the lights and shades The golds, scarlets and purples, that no sense is wearied; For God Himself hath painted the landscape.
-Helen Keller, Autumn
Autumn Fern is one of the most colorful. Other common names include Japanese Shield Fern and Japanese Red Shield Fern. Its botanical name is Dryopteris erythrosora (pronounced dry-OPP-ter-iss ehr-ith-roh-SOR-ra), meaning "oak fern - red sori." The names refer to its habitat among broadleaf evergreen trees and the color of the spore-producing structures under the fronds. Obviously, the fern is native to Japan, but also to China and Korea.
Autumn fern's colors begin in spring when the garnet-red croziers (fiddleheads) begin to emerge. As the fresh young fronds unfurl, their colors change to bronze and finally mature to dark green. Oddly, Autumn ferns are more attractive in spring than autumn, yet the spring colors are reminiscent of fall.
Autumn fern normally grows in loose clumps 18 to 24 inches tall with an equal spread. It prefers partial to full shade in moist, well-drained soil high in organic matter with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.5. It is hardy from USDA climate zones 5 into 9.
Little soil preparation is needed before planting. Moist, well-drained soil high in organic matter shouldn't need tilling, especially if in a woodland setting. If the soil requires amendment to increase the level of organic matter, some tilling might be required. Remove all traces of weeds. Collect a soil sample and take it to the nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. Follow the instructions provided.
When planting, water the plants in their pots, then allow the pots to drain. Remove the plants from their pots and place in the planting holes at the same depth they grew previously. Water again. Finally, apply a layer of organic mulch to conserve moisture and discourage weeds.
Gardeners troubled by deer and rabbits will be glad to know that this fern is critter resistant. Similarly, autumn fern is insect and disease resistant.
Autumn fern is ideal as a ground cover for shade gardens and woodland walks, fern collections, and Asian plant collections. Suitable companion plants include Astilbe, Chrysogonum, Galium, Hosta, Heuchera, Hyacinthoides, Sanguinaria, Scilla, Selaginella, and ferns with similar requirements.
Who does not know
That those famed caves, on Arran's western shore,
Were King's Coves called, because they shelter gave
To Scotland's bravest King in hour of need
And when we see how richly they are fringed
With royal fern, might not we almost think
This stately fern delighted still to grow
'Midst scenes once honoured by so great a prince
-David Landsborough, Arran: A Poem
Royal ferns (Osmunda regalis - pronounced os-MUN-duh re-GAY-liss) are so named because individuals can grow to be rather large. Some specimens have been recorded up to 5 feet tall and 5 feet across. You can't miss them in the garden. Sterile fronds sprout as slender croziers in spring, yellowish green in color and lightly tinged with terra-cotta. Mature fronds are bright green. The leaves are deciduous, turning pleasing yellow in fall before becoming brown. When back-lit by the sun, the yellow fronds are distinct and beautiful.
Many gardeners struggle with wet soils. Filling in the low spots is often considered to be remedy, but the water is simply redirected somewhere else sometimes causing another problem. I recommend leaving the wet areas alone and populating them with suitable plants. The royal fern is such a plant. Because they thrive in wet soil, royal ferns are ideal in rain gardens and bog gardens, beside streams and ponds. They'll even live in standing water. Tramping outdoors, they are often found in light shade, but royal ferns can certainly tolerate full sun.
Orchid growers are familiar with royal ferns, though they may not realize it, for the dried rhizomes of royal ferns have been used as potting medium for their epiphytes. Other materials are now more often used.
Widely distributed, royal ferns can be found growing in many parts of the world. It's no surprise, then, that they are hardy in a wide range of climate zones. In North America, these perennials are hardy from USDA hardiness zone 3 to 10.
Though they can become large, mature royal ferns can be as small as 24 inches tall and as wide. Much depends upon the moisture level.
Not much soil preparation is needed. Tilling wet soil would be a futile exercise, anyway. A soil sample should be taken to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. Follow the instructions. Recommended soil pH is 6.0 to 7.8.
Plant bare-root ferns in mid- to late spring or fall. Container-grown ferns may be planted any time of year. Space them 24 to 48 inches apart.
Very little to no maintenance is needed. Fertilizer should not be necessary. Brown fronds may be removed in winter. Soil moisture should be maintained.
Suitable companion plants may include red maple, pond cypress, dawn redwood, myrtle-leaf holly, inkberry holly, baccharis, coastal leucothoe, elephant ear, cinnamon fern, netted chain fern, yellow water iris, jewel weed, horsetail and acorus.
Q. I want to mulch around my flowerbed with the leaves from my yard but I was told by someone that oak and pecan leaves are bad for your garden. Some chemical in them. Is that true? Can I not use them? If I can, what is the best way to use them to add organic matter to my flower beds?
A. Yes, you may rake the leaves directly into the flowerbed around your garden. Oak and pecan leaves contain tannin, an acidic compound very common in plants. Tannin is what makes strong tea astringent. It's also the active ingredient in oak bark traditionally used for tanning leather. Tannin is found in some form in practically every plant family. While oak and pecan leaves may acidify the soil, the pH can be easily adjusted. If you take a soil sample to the nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis, you'll receive instructions on how to adjust it.
For best results, I suggest you compost your leaves before applying them to your flowerbed.
All-America Selections has announced the winners for 2012. Seeds should be available at your favorite seed retailer in Spring.
Ornamental Pepper ‘Black Olive’ (Capsicum annuum) is the AAS Flower Award Winner that has shown superior heat tolerance. Striking purple foliage shows nicely with the fiery red edible peppers.
Salvia ‘Summer Jewel Pink’ (Salvia coccinea) is the AAS Bedding Plant Award Winner. Lovely pink flowers appear earlier than other pink salvias, and last longer. It attracts hummingbirds, too.
Pepper ‘Cayennetta’ F1 (Capsicum annuum) is a AAS Vegetable Award Winner. The plant is compact, bears heavily, and is easy to grow. Peppers are 3 inches to 4 inches long and exceptionally flavorful.
Watermelon ‘Faerie’ F1 (Citrullus lanatus) is another AAS Vegetable Award Winner. The skin is yellow, yet the meat is a traditional red. Home gardeners will love the novel coloring and the compact habit. Fruits are about 7 inches x 8 inches and weighs 4 to 6 pounds.
Rambling through moist woodlands of Eastern North America, you're likely to come upon Cinnamon ferns. Why they are so named is not known precisely. The botanical name, Osmunda cinnamomea (pronounced os-MUN-duh sin-uh-MOH-mee-uh), means "fragrant, resembles cinnamon."
The Fern Bulletin, July 1907 reported, "Mrs. A. P. Taylor of Thomasville, Ga., writes that Osmunda cinnamonea glandulosa is decidedly aromatic. If bruised early in the day it is of a spicy fragrance. Mrs. Taylor suggests that this may be the origin of the name cinnamon fern, but the evidence appears to be against this." Mrs. Taylor guessed, but not well enough, apparently. The Missouri Botanical Garden website states that "the common name of this plant is in reference to the cinnamon colored fibers found near the frond bases." Though I highly respect MOBOT, that seems a bit obscure. My conjecture is that the name was derived from the tall, slender, cinnamon-colored spore-bearing fronds that appear in spring. They look like cinnamon sticks to me, and are very obvious. On the other hand, taxonomists have never been shy about referencing obscure or potentially embarrassing characteristics of plants when naming them. I suppose, though, that the only way to know for sure is to find a written record left by the naming taxonomist, or minutes of an ad hoc committee on naming this thing.
Cinnamon fern has also been known by other botanical names including Osmunda bipinnata, Osmunda cinnamomea var. cinnamomea, Osmunda imbricata, Osmundastrum cinnamomeum and Anemia bipinnata. I only mention them in passing; you needn't remember.
Cinnamon fern grows from 30 inches to 60 inches high, and as wide as it is tall. Light green fronds emerge as "fiddleheads" in spring, unfurling into a splendid display. Foliage is deciduous, turning light yellow in fall before browning. The cinnamon-colored spikes are very attractive.
The native range of Cinnamon fern is widespread. You can find it growing from the Gulf Coast counties of Texas to Southern Florida, and northward into Canada. That's from USDA Zones 2 to 10.
As I wrote earlier, you'll find it in moist woodlands. Wet to moist woodland soils may be sandy, loamy or clayey, and usually acidic because of the tannin in decomposing leaves. This fern, however, will tolerate slightly alkaline soil. Cinnamon fern thrives in light shade or partial shade, but will tolerate dense shade, too. Gardeners with sites like that often consider them to be problem areas. If you have such a site, you're actually in luck because Cinnamon fern is your solution plant, and what a beautiful solution it is.
Cinnamon fern requires little or no maintenance, and has no significant insect or disease problems. Deer and rabbits shouldn't eat it, though there's no telling what a really hungry deer will munch.
About the fiddleheads: these are probably not your edible types. That would be Ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris). Very many ferns are more or less toxic. I suppose that's what makes them unpalatable to deer and rabbits, which seem to have good sense about such things.
Before you purchase plants, get your planting site ready. Take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Office for testing. Make soil adjustments as prescribed. Wet woodland soils shouldn't need to be cultivated. You'd get bogged down if you tried. Moisture will incorporate soil amendments into the planting area very effectively.
Plant spacing will depend on how large they may grow, and whether you want them to grow together. Planting 24 inches to 30 inches apart should be good enough.
Water the plants in the pots, then drain. Dig planting holes into the soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the ferns into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. If planting bare root plants, the crowns should be just above the soil surface. Don't bury them. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1 inch deep. Fertilizer probably won't be needed, but ferns tend to benefit from occasional feeding with diluted fish emulsion.
Shade gardeners and those who like to landscape with native plants should find Cinnamon fern to be very useful. Cinnamon fern is perfect for rain gardens, bog gardens, stream banks, shady ditches and, of course, moist woodlands.
Q. I have a Japanese persimmon tree with two different kinds of leaves. One part of the tree has longer, narrower leaves. Another part has fatter leaves. The part with the narrow leaves doesn't bear fruit. What's going on with my persimmon tree?
A. I'm often asked questions such as this, mostly about common fruit trees like apples, peaches and pears. Japanese persimmon (Diospyros kaki) scions are often grafted onto American persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) seedling rootstocks. It sounds to me like the rootstock of your tree sprouted and grew, perhaps even overtaking your Japanese persimmon. The American persimmon is the one with the narrower leaves.
You should remove the rootstock sprout, but it will surely sprout again - maybe even producing more sprouts next time. The larger the rootstock sprout has become the more new sprouts it will produce. If the rootstock sprout is as thick as your arm, you've got trouble. You'll have to stay on top of the situation and remove the new sprouts as soon as they appear.
Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for November organized by region.
Northeast States: Frost is possible. (How about that recent snow storm!) Plant and transplant broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers, spring-flowering bulbs until the ground is frozen. Pot up spring bulbs for forcing; keep them in an unheated room or cold-frame for the required time according to species. Finish pruning tasks. The recent heavy snow demonstrated that earlier pruning of weak or susceptible tree limbs could help one avoid later trouble. Fertilize trees and shrubs after they become dormant. Fertilize the lawn with a low-nitrogen fertilizer after frost to encourage root development. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees until ground freezes. Continue garden cleanup. Compost debris. Apply protective mulch in the garden and around plants to prevent cold damage. Feed house plants. Check house plants regularly for disease and insects; treat as necessary. Clean, lubricate and store hand tools for winter. Prepare gas-powered implements for winter storage. Clean bird baths and install electric heating elements, if appropriate. Clean bird feeders and refill.
Mid-Atlantic States: Same regimen as for Northeast States.
Mid-South States: Same regimen as for Northeast States. Continue lawn maintenance. Plant winter-blooming annuals, if you haven't already.
Lower South and Gulf States: Early frost is possible. Plant winter-blooming annuals, if you haven't already. Continue planting cool-season vegetables. Pinch back any annuals that appear leggy. Continue planting or transplanting trees, shrubs, ground covers, roses, spring and summer blooming perennials, spring blooming bulbs. Lightly prune trees and shrubs, but do not prune spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Remove or prune trees and branches that may be susceptible to storm damage. Continue lawn maintenance. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees as long as weather is above freezing. Wrap your exposed sprinklers in protective foam to prevent damage to pipes and valves. Feed house plants, and inspect them for insects and disease. Clean, lubricate and store hand tools for winter. Prepare gas-powered tools for winter storage. Clean bird baths, bird feeders, and refill.
Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Follow the same regimen as for Northeast States.
Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Frost is possible. Follow regimen for Lower South and Gulf States.
Pacific Northwest States: Frost is possible. Plant and transplant broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Divide perennials and transplant. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Pot up spring-flowering bulbs for forcing. Plant cool-season vegetables. Continue fall cleanup. Compost debris. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant. Feed house plants; inspect them for scale and disease. Clean bird baths, bird feeders, and refill.
Q. I bought a red maple at a local garden center last spring. The leaves are turning yellow in autumn. Was I sold the wrong kind of tree? What kind of maple do you think I purchased?
A. Though it's possible for plants to be mislabeled, you probably purchased a red maple (Acer rubrum). The leaf color in trees grown from seed can vary from yellow to red, including splotches.
Despite what you might have read, red maples aren't called so because of the leaf color in fall, but because the flowers and seed structures are red. If you want to be sure of having red foliage in fall, purchase a cultivar like 'October Glory' that will produce it, or buy a seed-grown tree in fall while the red leaves are on it.
November chill and damp weather seem like enough to keep one indoors, but such a day suits me. There's little I like better than to shuffle through fallen leaves in autumn. Sounds seem muffled. Colors are bolder in contrast. Woodlands reveal their secrets when not draped by summer's verdure. Last Thanksgiving season I found a perfect day for exploring the Birmingham Botanical Gardens.
The Birmingham Botanical Gardens is a living museum of plants - Alabama's largest. Over 10,000 specimens are displayed in 25 theme gardens throughout its 67.5 acres. The Birmingham Botanical Gardens is also home to the largest public horticulture library in the U.S. Gardens are maintained and open to the public every day of the year, and admission is free. It's no small feat, but a healthy partnership between the City of Birmingham and Friends of Birmingham Botanical Gardens makes it possible.
Late November is not a time for visiting rose gardens, azalea collections and floral displays. But it was ideal for enjoying features often hidden or overlooked.
One can't visit the Birmingham Botanical Gardens without encountering art, from graceful fountains to whimsical sculptures. Landscape design is no less an art form, and it is thoughtfully exhibited everywhere from formal vistas to tranquil scenes and pathways.
Birmingham, Alabama is a southern city of Appalachia. It's fitting that the Southern Living Garden is located in the Gardens. The Southern Living Garden is often featured in the publications of the Southern Progress Corporation. You'll also find garden features such as a rustic, covered well to remind you that you're in the foothills. A tool shed, familiar to every gardener, becomes a garden feature in the company of magnificent crape myrtles, cool-season annuals, espaliered fruits and iron furnishings.
Vegetable gardening is near and dear to agrarian hearts. The cool-season vegetable garden effectively displays the kinds and colors of crops that extend the edible harvest.
The Japanese Garden is a favorite destination of visitors to the Birmingham Botanical Gardens. Within it are so many delights that the Torii is literally a gateway to gardener's heaven.
Water seems like an essential part of any Japanese garden, but it isn't necessarily. The stone garden, also known as karesansui, is an example of the art form that gives the appearance of water and terrain to carefully raked pebbles. The flaming red foliage of a Japanese maple contrasts well with subdued shades. Crimson leaves fallen into brooklets shimmer like koi in sparkling water. Black bamboo intrigues. A red bridge reflected in water beckons twice from afar. Scattered fans of yellow ginkgo blanket the grass.
The Conservatory at the Birmingham Botanical Gardens is a welcome place to come in from the cold. Tropical displays, exotic flowers like Plumeria, and the succulent cacti collection will whisk your imagination to warmer climates and tempt you to shed your coat.
For those in the southeast who like to keep up with the newest tried and true plants, the Birmingham Botanical Gardens is not to be missed for it is an official All-America Selections Display Garden. Here you'll have an opportunity to view AAS winners up-close. The Birmingham Botanical Gardens is the only All-America Selections Display Garden in Alabama.
Like any great garden, the Birmingham Botanical Gardens come alive with new pleasures as the seasons turn. If you're fortunate enough to live nearby, you should visit often.
Q. Can you please recommend me a small-leafed ivy that will grow in full shade in zone 10, and not be considered to have an invasive root system? I would like something to climb the north facing wall of my South Florida house without doing penetrating damage to the stucco. I need it to climb by itself without a trellis.
A. That's a tough question. Vines climb by two means: clinging and twining. Twining vines wrap around something. You don't want a trellis, so there won't be anything to wrap around. Clinging vines produce growths that allow the plants to attach to the walls somehow.
Parthenocissus (Boston Ivy and Virginia Creeper) have little discs at the ends of modified roots that look like suction cups. They are very difficult to remove from a wall once attached (if you ever decide to remove the vine).
Hedera (English ivy and such) produces little roots that find cracks and crannies in the wall and worm their ways into them. This can cause damage, too.
Ficus pumila (Creeping fig) grows the same way, but I have seen it grow heavy and fall off of a wall during a storm without doing damage to stucco, so that might be a possibility for you.
My wife insisted on planting a Campsis (Trumpet creeper) against a wall. It also attaches by little roots, but I've been able to pull juvenile vines off without damaging the wall, but they were still juvenile. There may be some tropical vines about which I'm unfamiliar that would work.
Trachelospermum asiaticum (Asiatic jasmine) is usually grown as a ground cover, but I've had some escape and try to climb the brick north-face wall of my house. I've been able to pull the juvenile vines off with ease, but they don't really grow thickly enough to achieve the look you desire.
In short, try Ficus pumila. It's not perfect, but may be your best bet. You might have to get it started by erecting a short, temporary trellis.
Call it Peacock Flower, Abyssinian Gladiolus, Fragrant Gladiolus, Sword Lily, Acidanthera bicolor, Acidanthera murielae or Gladiolus callianthus. Why it's called Peacock Flower is easy to guess, as is the appellation, "fragrant." "Abyssinian" because it is considered to be native to Ethiopia (some say to Madagascar). It's called Sword Lily because the leaves are sword-like, long and tapering to a point. The name Gladiolus means "little sword." It's called bicolor because the flower is either red, pink or purple on white. Callianthus means "beautiful flower." It was given the name murielae in honor of Muriel Wilson, daughter of famous plantsman and explorer Ernest H. "Chinese" Wilson (1876-1930). Acidanthera refers to the sharp anthers in the center of the flower. Whether one prefers the name Gladiolus or Acidanthera depends on whether one views it as a species of Gladiolus or a genus of its own.
By any name, it is a lovely flower that is easy to grow. It possesses a distinctive tropical elegance. Peacock Flower looks like other gladioli in most respects. The plant grows to 3 feet tall. Long flower spikes produce butterfly-like blossoms along the length. The height, bold foliage and showy flowers add interest to bulb gardens and perennial borders.
Peacock Flower is hardy from USDA climate zones 7 through 11. Blooms, suitable for cutting and flower arrangements, may appear from mid-summer to fall.
Choose a site in full sun with average, consistently moist but well-drained garden soil. Preferred pH may range from 6.1 to 7.5. Take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Follow the recommendations.
Cultivate the soil to a depth of twelve inches and amend it according to soil test recommendations. Remove weeds and debris during cultivation. It is usually a good idea to incorporate superphosphate into the soil before planting at the rate of two pounds per 50 feet of row. If superphosphate is not available, an application of 5-10-5 fertilizer at the same rate is recommended. Plant Peacock Flowers four to six inches deep and six inches apart in spring when the weather and soil has warmed. Do not allow synthetic fertilizer to contact the corms. Cover with soil and water well. An application of mulch can suppress weeds and help to retain moisture. All gladioli benefit from generous feeding. A second application of 5-10-5 fertilizer may be applied as a side dressing at the rate of two pounds per 50 feet of row when the emerging bloom spike can be felt at the base of the foliage. Again, the fertilizer should not come into contact with the plants. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers. Too much fertilization can encourage bulb diseases.
When cutting for flower arrangements, choose stems with no more than three flowers in bloom. For best results, cut the stems in the early morning or late evening when temperatures are cooler. Leave a few leaves on each plant so the corms will remain strong. Most growers allow four leaves to remain on the corm. Use a sharp knife or clippers making a clean cut. Plunge the lower ends of the stems immediately in a bucket of cool water.
Peacock Flowers are not hardy in colder climates than USDA zone 7. The corms can be dug in fall and saved for planting the next spring. For more information about that, read my article, FAQ: When should I cut my gladioli? .
Q.When should I cut my gladiolas? A. Flowering stalks of gladioli (gladioluses, gladiolus or glads) may be cut when they are blooming. The flowers at the bottom of the stalk bloom first, and continue upward. It's best to cut gladioli when two or three of the lower flowers have fully opened. The best time of day to cut gladiolus stems is in the morning. You'll need sharp, clean clippers and a vessel of cool water. Place the stems in the water immediately after cutting to prevent the flowers from wilting. If you leave some flowering gladiolus stalks in your garden, cut them back as soon as the last flower fades.
Gladiolus leaves should remain on the plant until late summer as fall approaches. This will allow the plant to store food reserves in the corm, and to produce new corms. Eventually, the leaves will begin to look yellow and worn. Then you can prune the gladiolus leaves to ground-level. Remove the cut leaves to your compost bin.
If you live in a warm climate zone, you may leave the corms in the ground during winter. If you live in a cool climate zone, carefully dig the gladiolus corms before frost. If you have particular varieties, sort and label them. While sorting the corms, check them for firmness. Discard gladiolus corms that are soft. You'll notice that the corms are covered with a papery tissue. Do not remove it. Brush off any remaining soil. Store the gladiolus corms over winter in a cool, dark place where the temperature is about 40 degrees F.
Poking around one of my favorite streams in a wood, I saw a rather common fern for what seemed like the first time. Sure, I had noticed it before, but this time was different for I stopped long enough for a closer look and to be delighted by what I saw. Early plant explorers surely knew such pleasures. I imagine them hardly disembarked before stopping to study new finds and collect samples.
Karl Ludwig von Blume (1796-1862) was one of them. A German-Dutch botanist, he spent much of his life in southern Asia, especially in what is modern Indonesia. At the time, most of the archipelago was a Dutch colony. What a botanical treasure-trove he found.
Blume named a genus of ferns, Arachniodes (pronounced a-rak-nee-OH-dees), meaning "spider-like." The name was suggested, of course, by the growth habit of the plant. There are over 100 Asian species within the genus, and about 140 New World species.
A. simplicior (pronounced sim-PLIK-ee-or) is arguably the most beautiful. Common names include East Indian Holly Fern, Indian Holly Fern, Simplicior Fern and Shield Fern. Simplicior means "simpler", and it is in comparison with many of the other species which appear quite intricate. Its beauty is in its simplicity. Glossy evergreen fronds and pinnules are long and arching with light green variegation extending their lengths. It grows 12 inches to 24 inches high and may spread to 30 inches.
Indian Holly fern performs well in USDA climate zones 7 to 10 in partial shade. It prefers consistently moist soil, but not wet. Space large container-grown Indian Holly ferns 24 inches to 30 inches apart. Smaller ones can be planted closer together. Recommended pH is 6.5 to 7.5.
Such planting sites as those I mentioned shouldn't require cultivation. However, it's always wise to take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. You'll pay a nominal fee, and receive results within a couple of weeks. Follow instructions. I have found that ferns usually benefit from a top-dressing of compost and occasional feeding with diluted fish emulsion.
Shade gardens, fern collections, woodlands, moist stream banks and Asian gardens are perfect for the Indian Holly fern. Because it is relatively small, compact and evergreen, it also makes a fine house plant. It is deer-resistant. Indian Holly fern would make any plant explorer or garden visitor stop in his tracks for a closer look.
Q. Should I prune my Knockout roses this time of year? They have grown too big.
A. I understand that you are concerned about the appearance of your Knockout roses, but I advise you to wait. Pruning stimulates new growth. New growth is easily damaged by freezing temperatures.
Now it's late October, so cold weather will be arriving soon, if it has not already, in most parts of the country. If you live in a mild climate such as south Florida, you may prune Knockout roses now without much risk of damage. However, if you live in a colder climate, you should wait until spring when danger of freezing is past.
Gentle fiddleheads sprout like no characters in earthly paradise
-Bosha Kawabata
The Fiddlehead fern is known botanically as Matteuccia struthiopteris (pronounced mat-TEW-kee-ah struth-ee-OH-ter-us), so named to honor Carlo Matteucci, a 19th century Italian physicist. Struthiopteris refers to the fronds which reminded some taxonomist of ostrich (genus Struthio) feathers. Other common names include Ostrich fern, for obvious reasons, and Shuttlecock fern. "Shuttlecock" because the array of spore-bearing fertile fronds that are produced in early spring resemble that thing you whack in a game of badminton.
Other botanical names applied occasionally to this fern have included Matteuccia pennsylvanica, Pteris nodulosa, Struthiopteris filicastrum, Struthiopteris pensylvanica, and Osmunda struthiopteris. Just so you know; it's not that important.
The name, Fiddlehead, could just as well be given to most any fern for their young fronds resemble the scroll or crosier of a violin as they emerge in spring. But I think the name is probably applied to Matteuccia because of its popularity as a spring delicacy, and the fiddlehead is what foragers look for.
Novice foragers should beware. Eating the wrong fiddlehead can make one ill. Matteuccia has a brown, papery covering at the base of the shoots. Other ferns may have fuzzy shoots or shiny green ones. Matteuccia can also be identified by a distinct groove on the front of mature fronds, the absence of spores on the back, a crown-like structure at the base of the fronds, and underground rhizomes growing outward from the crown. If that sounds like too much trouble, look for harvested fiddleheads in the northeastern U.S. at some farmers markets in the spring.
Matteuccia is a graceful garden fern from the moment the fiddleheads begin to emerge, inspiring poets and artists with its elegance. It grows to 6 feet tall, but more often to 4 feet. It spreads to 5 feet to 8 feet. The foliage is deciduous.
Native Matteuccia can be found growing in sandy soils near riverbanks and streams from southern Alaska to northern Virginia, but can be found in gardens from USDA climate zones 2 through 10. That's a very wide range, indeed.
Choose a site for yours in partial to full shade. Soil should be consistently moist, but well-drained and acidic (pH 5.6 to 6.0). Sandy loam is recommended. To determine if your soil needs amendment, take a sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Follow the instructions you receive.
If the soil needs no added sand, cultivation should not be necessary. Remove all traces of weeds before planting. Space container grown plants 24 inches to 36 inches apart. Bare root plants may be planted closer. Dig planting holes into the soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Water the plants in the pots, then drain. Place the ferns into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1 inch deep.
Matteuccia is perfect for moist, shady woodland gardens, native plant collections and wet areas near streams or ponds. Suitable companions include astilbes and hostas. Early spring wildflowers like Phacelia,Trillium, Claytonia, Sanguinaria, and Erythronium can be planted beneath them. You'll be inspired.
Fiddlehead fern! Malachite blossom- unfurl your sweet head and wave delicate jade fingers; you darling jewel of veridian tang. My tongue sweats at the very first hint of your rising joy.
Q. I've never done bare-root before. Is survival rate lower than with potted material? How soon after shipping do they need to be planted? Care before planting if they need to wait awhile (weeks) before planting?
A. Survival rate can be lower than potted material, but that depends upon the care they receive. Survival rate also depends upon the plant. Some tolerate lots of abuse while others do not. Liriope and Ophiopogon, daylilies, irises tolerate lots of abuse.
None should be allowed to dry out entirely, be exposed to wind, sun or freezing temperatures before planting.
Ideally, bare root plants should be planted within a day of receipt. The plants are bundled, wrapped in moist packing material. We ship early in the week so that plants will arrive by the weekend.
If they can't be planted immediately, open the shipping container, set the bundles upright in the container, moisten bundles if necessary, keep in the shade. If plants can not be planted for several days, set the bundles in a nursery pot of potting soil and soak them in. Keep in shade. Check moisture daily.
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