Michinoku no
Shinobu moji-zuri
Tare yue ni
Midare-some nishi
Ware naranaku ni.
AH! why does love distract my thoughts,
Disordering my will!
I'm like the pattern on the cloth
Of Michinoku hill,—
All in confusion still.
-Kawara no Sadaijin (822 - 895)
Shinobu mojizuri is an ancient dyeing process, probably originating from Michinoku region in Japan, in which plants are pressed and rubbed into silk cloth creating an intricate pattern. The poet's simile expresses well the indelible, painful impression that love makes on the heart.
It occurs to me that the intricate pattern and shades of Japanese Painted Fern (Athyrium niponicum var. pictum) must resemble a Michinoku print. Emerging fronds are metallic gray with reddish to bluish blush. Mature fronds hold their color well and contrast nicely with the emerging ones. This fern forms very attractive clumps from 12 inches to 18 inches in height, and as wide.
For its beauty and adaptability, the fern was named Perennial Plant of the Year winner for 2004 by the Perennial Plant Association. Many gardeners find it irresistable.
Japanese Painted Fern goes dormant in winter, nevertheless it is reliably cold hardy in USDA climate zones 4 to 9. It performs best in partial shade to full shade, however, coloration is best in light shade. Some gardeners report success planting in full sun, but growers in hot climates should definitely provide adequate shade. Slightly moist soil is essential, though care must be taken to avoid over-watering. Japanese Painted Fern doesn't like soggy soil. Recommended pH is 6.1 to 7.5.
You'll be pleased to know that Japanese Painted Fern has no serious insect or disease problems, and it's deer resistant.
Before planting, take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing. The results will specify any necessary soil amendments.
Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 10 inches deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compost may be incorporated into the soil. Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4 inches to 6 inches of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.
Space the plants 18 inches to 24 inches apart. Small plants may be planted closer together. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Water the plants in the pots, then drain. Place the ferns into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1 inch deep.
Shade gardeners will love Japanese Painted Ferns. Of course, they should be included in Japanese gardens and in fern collections. Their beauty is irresistible.
Here is another English translation of Kawara no Sadaijin's poem, number 14 of A Hundred Verses from Old Japan (The Hyakunin-isshu), tr. by William N. Porter, [1909].
Q. I want to grow trumpet creeper, but don't want it climbing on the house. Do you have any suggestions?
Trumpet Creeper (Campsis radicans) is a useful vine with many admirable characteristics. It is a native plant, grows quickly, controls erosion, is insect and disease resistant, produces stunning flowers and attracts hummingbirds. But it can be a nuisance when grown on the house.
Aerial roots that help it climb can stick to the building and cause damage. The sheer weight of a mature vine can cause structural problems. Humidity that builds up under the vine can damage the walls. I recommend you grow it as a standard tree form. Choose a site where you can view it and enjoy the hummingbirds. Build a durable support. A steel pole with welded steel arms at the top and set in concrete isn't out of the question. Plant the vine next to the support. Attach it to the support with plastic tape. When the vine reaches the top of the support, pinch out the tip of the vine to stimulate lateral growth along the trunk, but retain only the young vines emerging from the top. Within two or three years, you will have a small tree that is easily maintained by occasional pruning.
This same method can be used for growing wisteria.
From the time I was a little argumentative kid, my mother used to protest, "You're driving me to Milledgeville!" That was a common expression of mothers in Georgia. Milledgeville was the home of Central State Hospital, opened in 1842 as Georgia’s first public psychiatric hospital. The saying wasn't meant to derogate patients; if we didn't have family there, at least we knew someone who knew someone there. It's just that no one wanted to go for more than a brief cordial visit. Being driven to Milledgeville meant something more serious. John Quattlebaum (another native Savannahian) and I waxed nostalgic about our mothers' sayings as he steered us toward Lockerly Arboretum in Milledgeville.
When we stepped out of the pickup, we thought it was unfortunate that some factory was situated so nearby to disturb the tranquility. The sound was like severe tinnitus in both ears, or the ambient background noise of a Kurosawa movie turned up loud. It could drive one crazy.
The Lockerly Arboretum is situated on the site of an old plantation formerly known as Rose Hill. It was so named because of an abundance of Cherokee roses that grew there. After the property changed hands a few times, a house fire and rebuilding, it was purchased by Mr. Edward J. Grassmann of Elizabeth, New Jersey. Grassman renovated the house, landscaped the property and operated it as a guest house for corporate visitors of the American Industrial Clay Company. He established the Lockerly Arboretum Foundation in 1965 "to provide outstanding ecological, horticultural and historical education in order to promote preservation and stewardship of the environment."
The English China Clays company bought the house later. The interest in clay was due to generous natural deposits of kaolin in the area. In 1998, the house was obtained by the Arboretum Foundation and opened to the public.
The arboretum consists of fifty acres with woodland, pond and various plant collections joined by nature trails and drives. Plant collections include azaleas and rhododendrons, maples, viburnum, conifers, aquatics and bog plants. Its location, straddling two climate zones, enhances the plant diversity. Lockerly is home to two of Georgia's Champion Trees: Cedar Elm (Ulmus crassifolia) and Small-leaf Viburnum (V. obovatum).
Following a map provided, we began with the woodland nature trail. It sounded as though the factory was just behind a hill. We immediately noted the proliferation of native and non-native species such as Partridgeberry (Mitchella repens), Asiatic Jasmine (Trachelospermum asiaticum), Christmas fern (Polystichum acrosticoides), Japanese Marlberry (Ardisia japonica) and East Indian Holly fern (Arachniodes simplicior). Other personal favorites included Wild Gingers (Hexastylis arifolia and H. shuttleworthii), Variegated Solomon's Seal (Polygonatum odoratum 'Variegatum'), Indian Pink (Spigelia marilandica), Mayapple (Podophyllum peltatum), Bigleaf Magnolia (Magnolia macrophylla) and Devil's Walking Stick (Aralia spinosa). We visited in early summer, so most of the rhododendrons were past bloom, but some rhododendron flowers were lingering along with a few spider azaleas. One of the highlights for me was finding a Yellow Passionflower (Passiflora lutea), a vine native to the eastern and southern U.S., but somewhat uncommon.
As we walked deeper into the forest, it seemed that the sound of the factory was before, behind and on both sides. It dawned on us that we were hearing cicadas (sometimes called "locusts"), and, sure enough, cicada shells were everywhere. Naturally, Bob Dylan's Day Of The Locusts came to mind.
And the locusts sang, yeah, it give me a chill
Oh, the locusts sang such a sweet melody
Oh, the locusts sang their high whinning trill
Yeah, the locusts sang and they were singing for me.
It was a high whinning trill, but not a sweet melody. Maddening, perhaps. The rest of our visit was accompanied by locusts.
Before we had walked far, my camera batteries gave up the ghost. So, many of the photographs featured here were taken by John Quattlebaum with his trusty Nikon.
Unfortunately, the pond was nearly empty of water, but boggy enough for Water Horsetail (Equisetum fluviatile), Elephant Ears (Colocasia spp.), Japanese Iris (I. ensata), and Jewel Weed (Impatiens capensis). If filled, the pond might have been home for some native waterfowl.
Though not extensive, the Maple Collection included some decent representatives along with a sizable Acer palmatum dissectum. Though not a maple, a Chinese Parasol tree (Firmiana simplex) drew our attention.
The Viburnum Collection lacked bloom, and some shrubs needed attention. The Conifer Collection is small, but included some of my favorites such as Cryptomeria japonica 'Knaptonensis', C. japonica 'Globosa Nana', Chamaecypris obtusa 'Crippsi', C. pisifera, and Deodar cedars (Cedrus deodora).
With the cicadas still ringing in our ears, I was in the mood to visit Andalusia, Flannery O'Connor's Milledgeville home. O'Connor was another native Savannahian that I admire. But the afternoon was wearing, and we needed to get back to Statesboro. We'll save Andalusia for another day.
The Lockerly Arboretum grounds are open Monday through Friday: 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.; Saturdays 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. It's closed on Sundays. Lockerly Hall may or may not be open for a walk-through when you visit. Guided tours are conducted Monday, Tuesday and Wednesdays.
I asked Kyle Hancock, professor of music at Georgia Southern University, whether he could tell me anything about Johann (II) Strauss's operetta, Waldmeister. Actually, the libretto was written by Gustav Davis. Strauss composed the music. Kyle could not, having never performed or studied it. Perhaps with the libretto in hand I could study it myself. So he gave me the phone number of Glendower Jones, a very knowledgeable music purveyor he knows, but Mr. Jones had never seen the libretto during his many years of purveying. Even if I had it, I would barely know what to do with it, since I struggle with German. I know that's right because I finally found a copy of the Waldmeister libretto online, and reading it was too laborious. I should have paid a little attention in college during German 101.
My search was motivated by the desire to learn as much as I could about the herb, Galium (pronounced GAL-ee-um) and particularly the species odoratum (odor-AY-tum). It's a short, shade-loving perennial that is native to forests in Europe, North Africa and Western Asia. Galium refers to "milk" and odoratum means "fragrant". Sometimes the botanical name Asperula (pronounced as-PAIR-uh-luh, meaning "rough") is used. Galium is also known as Waldmeister (Woodmaster), Sweet Woodruff, Sweet-scented Bedstraw, Our Lady's Bedstraw, Our Lady's Lace, Curd-Wort and Quinsy-Wort. Of course, I wanted to know why the plant was given all those names. But, to begin, I thought that by studying the libretto, I should better understand how the herb took root in German culture. The best I could find was a synopsis of Waldmeister at Boosey and Hawkes. In short, it's a little longer than this:
A happy hunting party of woodsmen, a beautiful opera singer and her boyfriend are caught in the forest during a rain storm. They find shelter in a millhouse and change their clothes. Chief forester Tymoleon surprises them, intending to teach them manners. But the boyfriend learns that Tymoleon has fallen in love with fair Freda, the daughter of the very person that tipped him off to the woodsmen, et alia in the millhouse. Everyone knows somehow that Tymoleon is a womanizer, and is not right for Freda. They plot to teach him a lesson. After a crazy engagement ceremony, celebrated with a wild lime-blossom tea, everything goes topsy-turvy. Nobody ends up with the one they came with, and "the mystery of the ‘black woodruff’ is unexpectedly disclosed."
Sounds like a typical comic opera. It titillated audiences in the 1890s as the prospect does now. But, of course, that raised more questions for me than it answered. What was in the lime-blossom tea? What was the mystery of the black woodruff? Is there a play on words with "woodmaster" and "woodruff?" Is the Waldmeister a ruffian? Is the Waldmeister Tymoleon, the herb, something or someone else? Here again, if I could read German without a dictionary, I might figure it out.
I've read that Johannes Brahms, a friend of Strauss, admired the operetta. But, alas, his endorsement wasn't enough. Waldmeister is rarely performed nowadays. The Waldmeister Overture is about all you'll hear.
I did find a couple of recordings of Die ganze Nacht durchschwärmt.
Laying aside my search for meaning in the operetta, I turned to "Woodruff." Recalling that I once knew a man named Woodruff, I decided to ferret-out its origin, and soon learned that the surname, Woodruff, is derived from "wood-reeve", the keeper of a forest and its denizens. AHA! So this says something about the plant, the operetta, and might hold a key to both.
On to the Bedstraw appellation. I don't know whether the name, Sweetscented Bedstraw, preceded Our Lady's Bedstraw, or if it was the other way around. At any rate, Galium was certainly used as bedstraw because of its fragrance. Of course, the pleasant fragrance was much needed in a house before the advent of modern conveniences and hygiene. I can barely imagine how badly homes must have smelled in medieval times when animals lived in or under the house, chamber pots were kept under the bed, floors might have been carpeted with rushes and matted with years of grime, food scraps, excrement and spit.
Galium was called Our Lady's Bedstraw because of a common practice among many Christian communities to associate some places, things and their attributes to Christian themes. It was a teaching aid to surround themselves, young and old, with reminders of their faith. Legend had it that the Blessed Virgin Mary used the plant as bedding for herself and The Christ Child on Christmas Night. I suppose Galium was called Our Lady's Lace because of the many small white flowers.
As I mentioned before, Galium refers to "milk", and I learned that one of the species, because of some chemical property, was used to curdle milk in the process of cheese-making. Thus it was sometimes called Curd-Wort.
With the possible exception of Curd-wort, Quinsy-Wort may be the least poetic of its names. Quinsy is a disease of the throat that can afflict teens and young adults. It resembles tonsillitis, but has much more serious consequences...sometimes fatal. Thankfully, it is rare. But Galium was once used to treat it.
Arguably, the most popular use for Galium odoratum is as an essential ingredient in Maywine (Mai Wein). Maywine is available commercially. The basic recipe involves soaking the crushed herb and fruit in white Rhine table wine. I don't know how long it takes, and I've never tasted it. But I understand that the flavor is one of new-mown hay. I like the smell of new-mown hay, but I don't know that I'd want to drink it. The flavor is said to be bitter. It must be an acquired taste. In Germany, woodruff is also added to smoking tobacco, beer, and to foods from meats to desserts.
It surprised me to learn that an active property in Galium (the one that imparts aroma and taste) is coumarin. Coumarin is also found in other plants, and in some natural flavoring agents. By a process involving fermentation, coumarin can be rendered very toxic and used as an effective rat poison. By the way, the same is used as an anti-coagulant for the treatment of coronary diseases. Have you ever walked through a field of new-mown hay and enjoyed the fragrance? If the dust didn't set you to sneezing, it was the coumarin you smelled.
Given the ingenuity of Davis and Strauss, I expect that there are all kinds of allusions to the names and properties of Galium in their Waldmeister operetta. In fact, their composition might explain everything, but I don't know because I didn't pay attention in German 101!
Galium odoratum grows 12 inches to 20 inches tall. Dark green leaves are simple, lance-shaped, smooth, and arranged in whorls around the stem. Small white flowers are borne above it in late spring or early summer. It prefers slightly moist soil that is high in organic matter with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.5. It's hardy in USDA climate zones 4 through 8.
There are many good reasons to include it in your garden. Galium tends to colonize an area (perhaps that's where the name, Woodmaster, comes from), so it makes a fine ground cover in shade where many other plants won't grow. Collectors of medicinal plants will want it represented in their landscapes. It's perfect for the shady spot in your herb or fragrance garden. Marian gardens and those with musical themes wouldn't be complete without it.
To prepare your shade garden for Galium, take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust the pH and nutrient levels according to instructions. Don't bother tilling unless the soil is compacted, which is unlikely with humusy soils. If tilling is required, cultivate to a depth of 12 inches. Add peat and compost if necessary. Water the young plants in their pots, remove from them from the pots, and space them 12 inches to 18 inches apart. Insert them into the soil with the top of the root ball at the same level as the native soil. Water again. Apply mulch, but not more than 3 inches deep.
There is something restful and peaceful about a shaded garden, as James Whitcomb Riley expressed so well.
Out at Woodruff Place--afar
From the city's glare and jar,
With the leafy trees, instead
Of the awnings, overhead;
With the shadows cool and sweet,
For the fever of the street;
With the silence, like a prayer,
Breathing round us everywhere.
Gracious anchorage, at last,
From the billows of the vast
Tide of life that comes and goes,
Whence and where nobody knows--
Moving, like a skeptic's thought,
Out of nowhere into naught.
Touch and tame us with thy grace,
Placid calm of Woodruff Place!
Weave a wreath of beechen leaves
For the brow that throbs and grieves
O'er the ledger, bloody-lined,
'Neath the sun-struck window-blind!
Send the breath of woodland bloom
Through the sick man's prison room,
Till his old farm-home shall swim
Sweet in mind to hearten him!
Out at Woodruff Place the Muse
Dips her sandal in the dews,
Sacredly as night and dawn
Baptize lilied grove and lawn:
Woody path, or paven way--
She doth haunt them night and day,--
Sun or moonlight through the trees,
To her eyes, are melodies.
Swinging lanterns, twinkling clear
Through night-scenes, are songs to her--
Tinted lilts and choiring hues,
Blent with children's glad halloos;
Then belated lays that fade
Into midnight's serenade--
Vine-like words and zithern-strings
Twined through ali her slumberings.
Blessed be each hearthstone set
Neighboring the violet!
Blessed every rooftree prayed
Over by the beech's shade!
Blessed doorway, opening where
We may look on Nature--there
Hand to hand and face to face--
Storied realm, or Woodruff Place.
-June At Woodruff
Just off of U.S. Hwy 1 driving along Ryders Lane in New Brunswick, New Jersey, I was following my Google Map directions looking for the entrance to the Rutgers Gardens. I was expecting something like a large banner, wall or gate, so I missed it. I asked directions, and was told to turn around. "It's back there somewhere," the store clerk said with a wave of the arm. Driving slowly, I found a little sign about 5"x 7" along a chain link fence beside an obscure exit onto Log Cabin Road. Here was the entrance to the famed Rutgers Gardens. Follow me to see what grows behind the highway guard rail.
The Gardens, located on the campus of Rutgers University, were established in 1927 as several horticultural collections in garden settings where plants were grown for research and trial. The first I passed, literally behind the guard rail, was an impressive collection of American hollies that I've often read about, said to be the largest such collection in the world.
According to Rutgers web site, "The future of the Rutgers Gardens is the development of designed gardens. Landscape architects, design professionals, and home owners will be able to see and learn different methods of combining plants that will provide four seasons of color, texture and form." A visit is not a stuffy, academic exercise, but an inspiring experience. You'll leave with ideas that you can use in your own landscape.
The Gardens are quite extensive, covering 50 acres, so it could take some time to enjoy them at a leisurely pace. In addition, the size demands some kind of map to guide the visitor along. I didn't find one, though an unassuming kiosk displays a map and legend. So I took a photograph of it and followed as best I could.
After parking (my car was the only one in the lot), I strolled around a portion of the Holly Collection. It's amazing how much diversity there is in habit, leaf and fruit among the American species of the genus, Ilex. Did you know that there are yellow-fruited varieties? I used to grow them, and may once again. One of my favorite hollies in my personal collection is Ilex opaca 'Maryland Spreader', a slow-growing, mounding variety.
Directly across the drive is a large open area surrounded by the Shrub Garden. Unfortunately, bloom season was over. But even in August a landscaper or home gardener could get a good idea of the size they might expect from various mature shrubs. That would be a valuable education in itself, for a vast majority of landscape shrubs seem to be planted without regard to that important consideration.
Similarly, the Shade Tree Collection should provide valuable lessons to gardeners. Not only size, but shape, canopy density, leaf form and bark texture are worth studying.
Cutting back through the Shrub Garden, I headed for the Lacey Harrison Display Garden which features All-American Selections of vegetables and flowers.
This garden was named for an Extension Specialist in home Horticulture who was involved in designing a demonstration garden of annual plants for the home landscape. Interns and volunteers plant and maintain the delightful display. A student working among the vegetables was eager to answer questions. Having noticed that the beds seemed to be arranged with companionable plants, I inquired. He said it was true. However, these were not only experimental beds, but displays which were the results of research. Even folklore was carefully studied. Typical combinations included tomatoes and basil, and the "three sisters" (corn, beans and squash). Side-by-side vegetable comparisons were "in progress." Of course, tomato trials were among them. You might recall that Rutgers introduced a tomato by that name back in 1934. For many years it was a standard beside which other tomatoes were judged.
The Roy H. De Boer Evergreen Garden is adjacent to the Harrison Display Garden. Roy DeBoer was the former Chairman of the Landscape Architecture Department at Cook College who designed the garden. Plants are grouped around a sunken lawn, creating a delightful vista from a vantage point at the Quimby Water Conservation Garden. A magnificent Sargent's Weeping Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis 'Sargentii') stands out among the collection.
Water conservation is an important topic nowadays. A visitor will get a lot of good ideas on what and how to plant to minimize water use from the Quimby Garden. The practice is called xeriscaping. You can learn more about it from my blog articles on xeriscaping and drought-tolerant plants. A nearby succulent garden also provides good examples for gardeners to adapt.
Across Log Cabin Road from the Quimby Garden, a few smaller "garden rooms" can be found. The tool shed serves as a focal center. These Tribute Gardens are sponsored by persons or corporations to honor the accomplishments and contributions of others. You would enjoy the individual expressions represented. Some are whimsical; all are delightful. Climb up into an oversize Adirondack chair and feel like a kid again!
Gardeners interested in ornamental grasses will find many to inspire them.
Rain gardens are becoming popular as effective methods of trapping available water and minimizing runoff. My blog article about rain gardens explains in greater detail. While rain gardens are considered to be attractive, low-maintenance additions to the landscape, it is also true that they can eventually become unsightly. The Rutgers Rain Garden was designed to demonstrate ways that rain gardens can be maintained more attractively with less work. Because rain gardens are meant to trap runoff from impermeable surfaces such as roofs, driveways and roads, they are usually located near those structures. This rain garden was designed to pipe water from collection areas, run through attractive water features and little waterfalls to the bog garden. Appropriate plants complete the design. A sign explains the rain garden concept. You can also read more about it at Rutgers Rain Garden page. You'll find an article about bog gardens and plants in my blog.
The Rhododendron Garden and Bamboo Garden have attracted visitors for many years. The former was established in the 1930 to accommodate plants of similar environmental needs in a plant community.
Unfortunately, my visit wasn't in spring when many of them would be in bloom. The Bamboo Garden was established in the 1950s to provide shelter for honey bees. As some bamboos spread by extensive underground rhizomes, they can be invasive. Just so has the Bamboo Garden grown. But it has also become a magical place to walk among what feels like a bit of the tropics in New Jersey.
I was so enchanted with the nearby Ornamental Tree Garden that I photographed nearly every one. There are magnificent specimens of extraordinary size and beauty. Check out these photos of American Hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana), American Hophornbeam (Ostrya virginiana), Persian Ironwood (Parrotia persica), the rare India Guassiawood (Picrassima guassioides), Winterberry Euonymus (Euonymus bungeana), Two-winged Silverbell (Halesia diptera), Mountain Silverbell (Halesia tetraptera var. monticola), Paperbark Maple (Acer griseum), Lavalle Cork Tree (Phellodendron amurense var. lavallei), Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum 'Burgundy Lace'), and Kousa Dogwood (Cornus kousa). As you know, ornamental trees are especially appropriate for the residential landscape, but they can grow much larger than one expects. Keep that in mind, especially if you intend to stay in one home for a long time.
This brief article barely begins to explore so many interesting aspects of The Rutgers Gardens. You really should see it for yourself. It's open to the public from 8:30am until dusk year around. Though no admission fee is charged, it is not funded by tax revenue. Rutgers Gardens depends upon friends for support.
Q. The leaves on my 5-year old maple tree are turning brown around the edges. What's causing it? Is there anything I can do? Do you think it will live? A. I expect that your tree is suffering from drought and heat. There's been a lot of that going around this year. Maples are not particularly drought tolerant, especially young ones. You need to water it, and you need to do it right. One option is to rig up a drip irrigation system around the base of the tree. Ask for instructions at your local garden center or check the internet. Most drip irrigation manufacturers provide instruction pamphlets.
The irrigation line should be placed on the ground around the tree just inside the drip line. That's where the feeder roots are. The drip line is under the outer branches. Watering close to the trunk won't help. There are no feeder roots there. Irrigate long enough for the water to soak deeply into the ground. Three or four hours the first day is not too long. The soil should be kept moist, not soggy.
Another option is to place the end of your garden hose on the ground just inside the drip line and let it drip slowly for one or two hours. Then move it to another place around the tree and let it drip some more. Keep doing it until you've watered entirely. Again, the soil should be kept moist, not soggy.
A third option is to install a drip irrigation bag on your tree. There are several brands. Treegator is the original. These are placed around the trunk of the young tree and filled with water. The water is gravity fed slowly into the root ball. If the tree is too large and the drip line too far from the trunk, drip irrigation bags won't do the job.
Will it survive? I don't know. That depends on how much the tree has suffered. It might survive through this season but croak the next, or even the next. In addition, drought stress can weaken trees to the point that they succumb to other afflictions.
As I've often heard said, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." Watering a little during dry spells when the tree is healthy is better than watering a lot when it's suffering. But we usually don't think of it until symptoms begin to appear. That's the way we are about a lot of things, isn't it?
Readers of this blog post are invited to share their own solutions. You can share your ideas by clicking the "Post a comment" link below. Let us hear from you!
August is practically upon us, so it's time to plan garden tasks for the month. Here are a few gardening tasks for August organized by region.
Northeast States: Plant fall-blooming bulbs and perennials. Spring and summer-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Sow cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Lightly prune and shape shrubs and trees, with the exception of spring-blooming shrubs and trees. Fertilize annuals, houseplants and vegetables. Mow lawn regularly. Clean up vegetable garden. Compost debris. Order bulbs for fall planting, if you haven't already.
Mid-Atlantic States: Plant fall-blooming bulbs and perennials. Spring and summer-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Sow cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Lightly prune and shape shrubs and trees, except for spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Fertilize annuals, houseplants and vegetables. Mow lawn regularly, aerate lawn if necessary. Clean up vegetable garden. Compost debris. Order bulbs for fall planting, if you haven't already.
Mid-South States: Plant fall-blooming bulbs and perennials. Spring and summer-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Sow cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Transplant collards, brussels sprouts, cabbage, broccoli and cauliflowers sets to garden. Lightly prune and shape shrubs and trees, but do not prune spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Fertilize annuals, houseplants and vegetables. Mow lawn regularly, aerate lawn if necessary. Clean up vegetable garden. Mulch flower beds again. Compost debris. Order bulbs for fall planting, if you haven't already.
Lower South and Gulf States: Sow cool-season annuals. Transplant brassica vegetable sets to garden. Plant fall-blooming bulbs and perennials. Lightly prune trees and shrubs, but do not prune spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Continue lawn maintenance. Compost debris. Order bulbs for fall planting, if you haven't already.
Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Plant container-grown trees and shrubs, perennials, ground covers. Sow cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crop. Divide perennials. Lightly prune trees and shrubs. Add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Order bulbs for fall planting.
Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Sow cool-season annuals and vegetables. Plant fall-blooming bulbs. Divide perennials and deadhead perennials. Lightly prune shrubs and trees, with the exception of spring-blooming shrubs and trees. Fertilize annuals, house plants and and container gardens. Clean up garden and add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Order bulbs for fall planting.
Pacific Northwest States: Transplant cool-season annuals and vegetables. Plant fall-blooming bulbs. Divide perennials. Lightly prune shrubs and trees, with the exception of spring-blooming shrubs and trees. Fertilize annuals, house plants and and container gardens. Mulch shrubs and trees, again. Clean up garden and add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Order bulbs for fall planting.
For centuries, rushes have been woven into the story of humanity.
Young, pliant and pithy, rushes have symbolized youth and regeneration.
Green rushes with red shoots,
Long leaves bending to the wind -
You and I in the same boat
Plucking rushes at the Five Lakes.
We started at dawn from the Orchid Island:
We rested under elms until noon.
You and I plucking rushes
Had not plucked a handful when night came!
- Anonymous, Chinese, 4th century. Translated by Arthur Waley
Green grow the rashes, O; Green grow the rashes, O; The sweetest hours that e'er I spend, Are spent amang the lasses, O.
There's nought but care on ev'ry han', In ev'ry hour that passes, O; What signifies the life o' man, An' 'twere na for the lasses, O. Green grow, etc
- Robert Burns (1759-1796), Green Grow The Rushes, O!
Not to be confused with Burns's song, there was a traditional Christmas carol of the same name that was popular in ye olde England.
The lyrics of this Green Grow The Rushes, O! are somewhat enigmatic to the modern ear, though the symbols are based on Christian themes. Strangely, it was twisted to become a popular Sesame Street counting song.
In Victorian times, "the language of flowers" meant a lot. To them, rushes symbolized docility and domesticity, i.e. peace at home. Certainly, docility should follow marriage. It has, more than less, though life has always been a struggle. But why should rushes symbolize docility? Perhaps because rushes were common material, easily found and used in Asia and Europe around the home, woven into symbols, shades, mats, cushions, beds, carpeting and roofing. Their leaves were even dipped in tallow to serve as candle substitutes. Rushes could be found everywhere. Rushes on the floor, mixed with scented herbs made the home comfortable, welcoming and memorable.
On the other hand, rushes have been used for medicinal purposes such as reducing inflammation and fever, purging toxins, treating tumors, healing urinary tract infections, dispelling kidney stones, as a laxative, relieving respiratory infections, and sedation.
Though they are evergreen, rushes in autumn and winter look worn and show their age. As Edna St. Vincent Millay and Sara Teasdale wrote, sometimes that's how worn-out life and love appear.
When reeds are dead and a straw to thatch the marshes,
And feathered pampas-grass rides into the wind
Like aged warriors westward, tragic, thinned
Of half their tribe, and over the flattened rushes,
Stripped of its secret, open, stark and bleak,
Blackens afar the half-forgotten creek,—
Then leans on me the weight of the year, and crushes
My heart. I know that Beauty must ail and die,
And will be born again,—but ah, to see
Beauty stiffened, staring up at the sky!
Oh, Autumn! Autumn!—What is the Spring to me?
-Edna St. Vincent Millay, The Death Of Autumn
The world is tired, the year is old,
The little leaves are glad to die,
The wind goes shivering with cold
Among the rushes dry.
Our love is dying like the grass,
And we who kissed grow coldly kind,
Half glad to see our poor love pass
Like leaves along the wind.
- Sara Teasdale, November
Christina Rossetti imagined the floor around her death bed being strewn with rushes.
The curtains were half drawn, the floor was swept
And strewn with rushes, rosemary and may
Lay thick upon the bed on which I lay,
Where through the lattice ivy-shadows crept.
He leaned above me, thinking that I slept
And could not hear him; but I heard him say:
"Poor child, poor child:" and as he turned away
Came a deep silence, and I knew he wept.
He did not touch the shroud, or raise the fold
That hid my face, or take my hand in his,
Or ruffle the smooth pillows for my head:
He did not love me living; but once dead
He pitied me; and very sweet it is
To know he still is warm though I am cold.
- Christina Rossetti, After Death
Juncus effusus
"But WAIT," you might ask, "What about the boat of bulrushes which floated baby Moses out of site?"
This is where we get into the physical details of plants. Bulrushes, you see, are not rushes at all; they are members of the sedge family, Cyperaceae. A little poem helps me to tell sedges apart from rushes. “Sedges have edges; rushes are round; grasses are hollow right up from the ground.” Rushes are of the genus Juncus (pronounced JUN-kus), and include up to 300 species. The leaves emerge from clumps, are relatively long, roundish and pithy in the center. The flowers are grass-like, held high, sometimes feathery, sometimes star-like. Plant height differs by species and variety, but ranges between 6 inches and 48 inches. Rushes are found around the world, usually in wet or moist locations. Most grow in cooler climates, rarely in the tropics.
Because of their stark appearance, many rushes are excellent as ornamental plants adding verticality and textural interest to the water or bog garden. Juncus effusus, also known as Common Rush and Soft Rush, may be the best known. Several varieties with cork-screw shaped leaves are especially notable.
Rushes are very easy to grow. All they need is a wet spot. They thrive in full sun to partial shade, and are generally hardy in USDA climate zones 4 through 10. There is no need to till the soil; you can't till mud, anyway. Soil pH should be from 5.6 to 7.5. Wet soils are generally acidic because of the rotting vegetable matter - perfect for rushes.
Rushes can be planted directly into the soil. Space them 12 inches to 24 inches apart, depending upon mature plant size. (Plant the larger ones farther apart.) They can also be grown in submerged containers. In fact, submerged containers may be the best manner for those species that tend to spread extensively.
Beside the fact that rushes are ideal for water and bog gardens, they also attract some species of hungry butterflies either in larval stage or on the wing. For creating aquatic wildlife habitat, rushes are perfect. Gardeners interested in cultivating plants pertaining to history, medicine, literature and crafts will want to grow rushes. If you are establishing or adding to a water or bog garden, planting a rain garden to conserve run-off, or just trying to figure out what to do with that mucky spot in your yard, rushes are for you.
Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for July organized by region.
Northeast States: Plant container-grown perennials, potted roses. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Divide spring-blooming bulbs. Sow warm-season and cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Lightly fertilize perennials. Continue rose care. Fertilize shrubs, annuals and container gardens every 10 to 14 days. Mulch trees and shrubs to conserve moisture. Mow lawn regularly. Order bulbs for fall planting.
Mid-Atlantic States: Continue planting trees and shrubs and container gardens. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Divide spring-blooming bulbs. Sow warm-season and cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Continue rose care. Mulch trees and shrubs to conserve moisture. Fertilize shrubs, annuals and container gardens every 10 to 14 days. Mulch trees and shrubs to conserve moisture. Mow lawn regularly. Prune shade trees to remove damaged limbs. Order bulbs for fall planting.
Mid-South States: Continue pruning spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Continue to divide and transplant perennials. Continue to plant container gardens. Remove spent vegetables from the garden and sow or transplant warm season vegetables with short maturities. Pinch planted mums to delay bloom. Lightly fertilize camellias, azaleas, annuals, container gardens, summer bulbs, fruit trees. Spray fruit trees with insecticide and fungicide. Continue rose care. Sow cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Order bulbs for fall planting.
Lower South and Gulf States: Continue pruning spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Continue to divide and transplant perennials. Continue to plant container gardens. Remove spent vegetables from the garden and sow or transplant warm season vegetables with short maturities. Pinch planted mums to delay bloom. Lightly fertilize camellias, azaleas, annuals, container gardens, summer bulbs, fruit trees. Spray fruit trees with insecticide and fungicide. Continue rose care. Sow cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Dead-head crape myrtles to lengthen the bloom season. Order bulbs for fall planting.
Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Plant container-grown trees and shrubs, perennials, ground covers, annuals, roses. Sow warm-seasons and cool-season vegetable seeds. Divide spring bulbs and perennials. Lightly fertilize trees, shrubs, container gardens, vegetables and herbs, house plants. Continue rose care. Lightly prune trees and shrubs. Add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Order bulbs for fall planting.
Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Replace spent warm season annuals, vegetables and herbs. Start cool-season vegetables for your fall garden. Divide perennials. Deadhead perennials and annuals when blooming is over. Fertilize trees, shrubs, container gardens, vegetables and herbs, house plants. Continue rose care. Add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Order bulbs for fall planting.
Pacific Northwest States: Plant container-grown trees and shrubs, perennials, ground covers, annuals, roses. Sow warm-seasons and cool-season vegetable seeds. Divide spring bulbs and perennials. Lightly fertilize trees, shrubs, container gardens, vegetables and herbs, house plants. Continue rose care. Lightly prune trees and shrubs. Add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Order bulbs for fall planting.
I posted earlier about Julie Bass, the gardener who incurred the wrath of municipal authorities by planting a vegetable garden in her front yard. Apparently, an unhappy neighbor reported her garden and the law came down hard. Thanks to a ground swell of popular support for Julie Bass, the law backed off but found something else to chase: her dogs. Here is the latest report from Prison Planet about the apparent harassment of gardener Julie Bass. Read more about Julie Bass at Huffington Post. You can follow the Julie Bass Blog for her personal perspective. You can also gently opine to City Planner Kevin Rulkowski.
When times were tough during the Jimmy Carter administration, front yard vegetable gardens began popping up all over, even in comfortable neighborhoods. Now they are reappearing and becoming more common during the Obama administration.
But the front yard garden belonging to Julie Bass is not allowed in Oak Park, Michigan.
Who would think that gardeners with raised beds visible from the street would be prosecuted? Why is this garden so offensive? Because it's not "suitable." Why is it not "suitable?" Because, at this point, "suitable" means "common", in the eyes of the law. Perhaps there are not enough front yard gardens to make them "common."
So, dear friends, plant vegetable gardens in your front yards to make them commonplace and suitable. For the sake of Julie Bass.
The ornate terra cotta roof of the Main Street Railroad Station rising above a concrete flyover hints to hurried travelers on I-95 in Richmond, VA that there is something grand beneath the city's industrial surface. In fact, it was industry, capital and private benevolence that funded Richmond's grandeur. From the rubble of the Civil War, the city emerged as an economic dynamo. You might say Richmond was smoking...literally, for it became an important home to the tobacco industry. Lewis Ginter was one of its leading citizens. For his business acumen and his part in developing a cigarette-rolling machine, Ginter became very wealthy, and he used his wealth to advance learning and culture.
Ginter's wealth, influence and sense of philanthropy was shared among other members of his family, most notably with his niece, Grace Arents. Grace, heiress to Ginter's fortune, contributed generously to charitable organizations, and was also involved in "hands-on" benevolence. Eventually, Arents' liberality provided a fitting memorial to her uncle in the form of a wonderful botanical garden for the benefit of the public.
As with the roof of the Main Street station, the entrance to the Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden only hints at the beauty beyond. Upon entering the garden from the Visitors Center, the signature Conservatory is viewed beyond three delightful garden rooms. With a map in hand and the conservatory as a destination, we come first to the Four Seasons Garden, which is planted for year-round seasonal interest. Just beyond, the Healing Garden features plants with medicinal properties. Before ascending the hill to the Conservatory, the Sunken Garden provides a water feature and a place for private reflection.
The Conservatory is "the jewel of the garden", its 63 foot tall dome and translucent panes sparkling in the sunlight. In it is housed an extensive orchid collection, palms and seasonal floral displays.
Down the hill toward the lake, the Rose Garden features a vast selection chosen for disease resistance, fragrance and extended bloom period. A visit in summer should be delightful.
We who enjoy asian theme gardens will not be disappointed. Our visit in spring found the Prunus and Magnolia trees to be in full bloom. On the other hand, the season was not the best for enjoying the West Island Garden, which features carnivorous plants.
Perennial plant enthusiasts will be thrilled with the Flagler Perennial Garden, Woodland Walk, Arents Victorian Garden, the Lace House Garden with hand-carved gazebo, and the Wildside Walk. Grace Arents Bloemendaal House, set among these gardens is typical of its day.
The Children's Garden, Conifer Garden and wildflower meadow will captivate young and old alike. The view across the lake from the Lucy Payne Minor Gazebo is not to be missed.
If you're journeying through Richmond, the Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden is not far from I-95. We've passed the signs many, many times, always feeling rushed and thinking that we simply couldn't spare an hour or two. But a visit to the Garden is just what a hurried traveler needs.
Q. My nandina plants look straggly and need to be pruned, but I don't know how. Can you help me?
A. I assume yours are not a newer, compact variety of Nandina domestica. If you were to cut all the canes back by two-thirds in late spring, they should re-grow and look decent by the end of summer. But since it is now July, they may not have enough time and vitality to re-grow if you remove all the foliage. I suggest that you select about one-third of the canes and cut them back by one-half to two-thirds. They should begin to re-grow and fill in at a lower level within the plant by the end of summer. Next year, cut back the ones that were left un-pruned from this year. By the end of the second growing season, your nandina should be rejuvenated.
In 1996, Asian longhorned beetles (ALB, Anoplophora glabripennis) were discovered on some hardwood trees in Brooklyn, New York. The U.S. Secretary of Agriculture declared an emergency in order to combat the pests. The beetles are believed to have come into the U.S. in wood pallets and packing material with shipments from Asia.
Any invasive and destructive insect presents a problem. But the problem with these beetles is greater because they attack a wide range of tree species including Norway maple, silver, red and sugar maple, box elder, buckeye, horsechestnut, London plane, birch, elm and willow. The economic impact could be enormous.
In 2002, another devastating beetle was identified in Michigan and neighboring Ontario, Canada. Emerald ash borer (EAB, Agrilus planipennis Fairmaire) turned out to be the culprit behind the loss of ash trees in the state. Another non-native pest, it is distributed with the helping hand of humans when infested wood (firewood, for example) is moved from place to place. Emerald ash borer has now spread to at least 14 states, including Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kentucky, Maryland, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Virginia, West Virginia, and Wisconsin.
The war on the Asian longhorned beetle and emerald ash borer is essentially a seek-and-destroy mission, and the USDA is soliciting the help of citizens such as you. By learning the tell-tale signs of beetle damage, you can become a Beetle Detective and be on the lookout for these pests. The USDA wants to know not only if the beetles are present, but if they are not. By periodically reporting your findings, you aid in the effort to control or eradicate them. Learn more about becoming a Beetle Detective.
Across the meadow in brooding shadow
I walk to drink of the autumn's wine
The charm of story, the artist's glory,
To-day on these silvering hills is mine;
On height, in hollow, where'er I follow,
By mellow hillside and searing sod,
Its plumes uplifting, in light winds drifting,
I see the glimmer of golden-rod.
In this latest comer the vanished summer
Has left its sunshine the world to cheer,
And bids us remember in late September
What beauty mates with the passing year.
The days that are fleetest are still the sweetest,
And life is near to the heart of God,
And the peace of heaven to earth is given
In this wonderful time of the golden-rod.
Goldenrod is of the genus Solidago (pronounced so-li-DAY-go). Solidago includes about 100 species mostly distributed throughout North America. Some are found in South America, Mexico and Europe. When goldenrod blooms, know that summer's end is near. It conjures a pensive mood in me.
The name, given by Linnaeus in 1753, comes from Latin, meaning "to make whole." Undoubtedly, he knew of its time-honored medicinal uses. Ailments treated included arthritis, tuberculosis, bladder inflammation, kidney stones, gout, colds and allergies, bronchitis and asthma.
Solidago was once considered as a possible source for rubber by Thomas Edison. The Edison Papers at the New York Botanical Garden tell the story. During World War I, Edison expected that rubber would be a very valuable commodity, began to search for latex sources in readily available plants. Edison's winter estate was in Ft. Myers, FL, just across the street from Henry Ford, so they and another friend, Harvey Firestone, began collaborating on the research project. The Edison Botanic Research Corporation of Fort Myers was formed. After many plant trials, they concluded that Solidago leavenworthii was the best source. Though they were able to produce very durable rubber, they were unable to do it on a large enough scale. The company was dissolved. Ford moved the solidago to his mansion near Richmond Hill, GA for awhile. The project was finally abandoned.
Interestingly, the Ford Motor Company has never given up on the idea of readily available plants. The company is now partnering with scientists at Ohio State University in an attempt to produce significant amounts of rubber from Russian Dandelion (Taraxacum kok-saghyz).
Most Solidago species thrive in USDA climate zones 3 through 9. Average garden soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8 is fine. Solidago is drought-tolerant, deer resistant and rabbit resistant.
Perennial borders, hummingbird gardens and butterfly gardens should include Solidago. Appropriate theme gardens would include medicinal, herb, historic and native plant gardens.
If you would like to grow Solidago, choose a site in full sun to partial shade. Take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. You will pay a small fee. If your soil is not friable, cultivate to a depth of 8 inches. Add fertilizer and other amendments as recommended. Remove all traces of weeds.
Water the plants in their pots. Allow them to drain. With a garden trowel, dig holes twice as large as the pots. Space the plants about 18 inches apart. (Larger growing species can be planted farther apart.) Remove the plants from their containers, add water to the planting hole, fill in around (not on top of) the root balls with native soil. Water again. A light top-dressing of mulch may help to retain moisture and discourage weeds until your plants are established.
Include Solidago in your garden. Toward the end of summer, its plumes uplifting, in light winds drifting, you'll see the glimmer in the wonderful time of the golden-rod.
Q. I want to plant English ivy in my yard. I haven't decided what size to plant. How many will I need?
A. Though you inquired about English Ivy, here are some general spacing guidelines applicable to many species for planting bare root plants, 2-1/2" pots, 3-1/2" and 4" pots, 4-1/2" pots and Quart-size pots.
Bare root plants should be spaced 4" to 8" apart. If 4" apart, you'd need 9 per sq. ft. If 6" apart, you'd need 4 per sq. ft. If 8" apart, you'd need 2.25 per square foot.
2-1/2" pots should be spaced 8" to 12" apart. Again, if 8" apart, you'd need 2.25 plants per sq. ft. If planted 10" apart, you'd need 1.45 plants per sq. ft. If planted 12" apart, you'd need 1 plant per sq. ft.
3-1/2" and 4" pots should be spaced 12" to 18" apart. Again, if 12" apart, you'd need 1 per sq. ft. If 15" apart, you'd need 1 plant per 1.56 sq. ft. If 18" apart, you'd need 1 plant per 2.25 sq. ft.
4-1/2" pots and Quart-size pots should be spaced 18" to 24" apart. Again, if planted 18" apart, you'd need 1 plant per 2.25 sq. ft. If planted 24" apart, you'd need 1 plant per 4 sq. ft.
Surrounded by the natural beauty of western North Carolina, the North Carolina Arboretum presents a unique combination of attractions to visitors. Biological diversity, green education, arts and crafts, landscape design and woodland strolls are celebrated in the shadow of Mt. Pisgah. The gateway is situated at the confluence of the French Broad River and Bent Creek close by The Blue Ridge Parkway.
The drive to the Baker Exhibit Center is as lovely as The Parkway, winding along the verdant creek side. The Exhibit Center features changing art and craft displays, a gift shop and lovely views of the outdoors. Immediately behind it, the Heritage Garden evokes an Appalachian farmstead and garden. A workshop is furnished to provide students hands-on experiences in old-time crafts such as dye-making from native herbs. Reminders to recycle are everywhere.
Appropriately, the Quilt Garden is adjacent. Seasonal annuals are planted in patterns characteristic of the Appalachian region. Twenty-four planting beds are divided by slate and gravel pathways, affording visitors comfortable strolls among the bright colors. An observation deck above it provides a fantastic overview of the area.
The Stream Garden reminds of the geological wonders that created the Southern Highlands. A stylized stream is planted with a harmonious combination of non-native and native species.
Sculpture is tastefully integrated in the landscape throughout the Arboretum. And though few of us can create or afford works of art for our own garden, there is a lot of inspiration for all of us to be creative, as with this container garden.
A promenade leads from the Stream Garden to the Bonsai Garden. Bonsai, an Oriental horticultural art form, may seem out-of-place in what seems like a homespun setting, but visitors will find examples with a distinctly Southern Appalachian flavor. As they say at the Arboretum, "The quality of the collection and its presentation has attracted national attention, while the promotion of bonsai as being an expression of an individual’s experience of nature, without attaching to it the trappings of any particular foreign culture, is a distinguishing innovation." That's what makes it work in this context.
The Plants of Promise Garden, next to the Education Center, features new selections, old favorites and native flora that show promise for residential landscape applications. It's sort of a trial garden to test plants for the region and similar environments.
Two collections should be well-worth your efforts to view in season: the Ericaceous Collection and National Native Azalea Collection. From them, enthusiasts needing more exercise can find comfortable trails beneath the sylvan canopy. Bent Creek Trail, Rocky Cove Road, Owl Ridge Trail and Hard Times Road form a comfortable loop for hikers.
Unfortunately for you and me, my camera batteries died after a few photographs. Replacements were not available in the gift shop, so I didn't capture as many images as I wanted. But you get the picture.
For complete information, directions, and schedules of events, check out the North Carolina Arboretum web site. I'm certain that one visit will entice you to return often.
Q. My question is about using ivy (English, hedera..) as a groundcover. The area is defined and slopes. I'd like the ground cover as an evergreen that could take pretty full sun - and it is hot in summer afternoons in Nashville. The key question is what happens to perennials (especially daffodils) that are planted in large numbers. Will the ivy inhibit or kill them? Thanks for any help you can offer.
A. Depending on where you live in Nashville, you might be in USDA climate zone 6 or 7. Hedera appreciates some shade from zone 7 and warmer, so you should give that some consideration. Hedera can grow densely, so it might present too much competition to some perennials. Daffodils would stand up to the competition okay.
Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for June organized by region.
Northeast States: Plant bare-root and container-grown perennials, potted roses, cool-season vegetable sets, annuals and strawberries in outdoor beds. Sow warm-season vegetables and herbs outdoors. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Divid spring-blooming bulbs. Prune trees, summer- and fall-blooming shrubs. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials. Continue rose care. Fertilize shrubs, annuals and container gardens every 10 to 14 days. Mulch trees and shrubs to conserve moisture. Mow lawn regularly.
Mid-Atlantic States: Continue planting trees and shrubs and container gardens. Sow vegetable and herb seeds in the garden. Transplant vegetable and herbs outdoors. Finish pruning spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Continue to remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Lightly fertilize annuals and vegetable seedlings. Fertilize spring bulbs when flowering is complete. Continue spraying fruit trees. Apply mulch to newly planted plants. Continue rose care. Install sod. Mow lawn regularly.
Mid-South States: Continue to plant container-grown trees and shrubs. Continue to divide and transplant perennials. Continue to plant container gardens. Sow warm-season annuals, vegetables and herbs. Transplant warm-season vegetable and herb seedlings. Shear spring-blooming trees and shrubs now that flowering is complete. Shear conifers and evergreen shrubs. Pinch planted mums to delay bloom. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize camellias, azaleas, annuals, container gardens, summer bulbs, fruit trees. Spray fruit trees with insecticide and fungicide. Continue rose care. Plant warm-season grass seed and install sod if you can irrigate regularly.
Lower South and Gulf States: Continue planting and transplanting outdoors, but make sure you provide adequate irrigation during June. Perennials can be divided. Prune shrubs and trees. Continue rose care and lawn maintenance. Thin vegetables in the garden. Continue composting.
Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Continue planting trees, shrubs, summer bulbs, annuals and vegetable sets. Divide summer- and fall-blooming perennials. Sow vegetable, annual and herb seeds. Shear conifers. Prune spring-flowering trees and shrubs since bloom is complete. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize azaleas, camellias, summer bulbs, vegetables, fruit trees, annuals, container gardens (including house plants). Continue rose care. Sow grass seed or install sod. Continue lawn care.
Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Sow and plant warm season annuals, vegetables and herbs. Divide early-blooming perennials. Prune diseased and dead wood from trees and shrubs. Deadhead perennials. Fertilize trees, shrubs, container gardens, vegetables and herbs, house plants. Continue rose care. Add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance.
Pacific Northwest States: Plant container-grown trees and shrubs, perennials, ground covers, annuals, roses. Divide spring bulbs and perennials. Plant or sow warm season herbs and vegetables. Prune dead or diseased branches from trees and shrubs. Fertilize trees, shrubs, container gardens, vegetables and herbs, house plants. Continue rose care. Add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance.
Q. The bottoms of my tomatoes are rotting what is the problem? What can I do about it?
A The disease is called "blossom end rot" and it is caused by calcium deficiency in the fruit. Calcium strengthens the cell structure. When there is insufficient calcium, the cell walls are weakened and are prone to burst. It starts in the blossom end, because that is the weakest point in the fruit. Then it spreads because the surrounding cells are stressed more and burst.
The problem is essentially an environmental one, beginning perhaps with insufficient calcium in the soil. But even if there is enough soil calcium, other factors can prevent enough of it from reaching the fruit. Water transports the calcium, so if there is a lack of water, the calcium is not carried where it is needed. If the soil is dry, there will not be enough water. If air temperature is very hot, there may not be enough water in the plant itself. Dry soil and hot temperatures are usually coincidental, compounding the problem.
To help prevent blossom end rot, test your soil before planting. You can take a sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Office for analysis. The site should be in full sun. The soil should be high in organic matter and well-drained. Soil pH should be 6.5. If it is lower than that, add lime according to the soil analysis recommendations. Compost is always an appropriate soil amendment.
For good measure, add 1/2 cup of pelletized dolomite lime and 1/4 cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer to each planting hole before planting. Mix well. Do not allow fertilizer to come into direct contact with the plants. Water well after planting. Cover soil with mulch to 3 inches deep in order to preserve soil moisture. Provide 1-1/2 inches to 2 inches of water per week.
For added protection, spray your tomatoes weekly with calcium chloride when the blossoms are forming and fruits are small. This is usually done during late spring and early summer. Calcium chloride is available at garden centers.
Tomato varieties resistant to blossom end rot have been developed recently. Remember that rot resistant doesn't mean rot proof, but every advantage helps.
If you did not add lime to your soil before planting your tomatoes, it is too late to add it when blossom end rot appears. At that point, calcium chloride spray and adequate irrigation are your only remedies.
Q.What is the best way to keep weeds out of my garden?
A. In a word: MULCH. Mulch suppresses weeds and helps to retain soil moisture. There are many kinds of mulch which can be classified in two groups: synthetic and organic. Synthetic mulches include plastic sheeting, plastic fabrics, carpet remnants and rubber chips recycled from used tires. Organic mulches include pine straw, wheat and similar grain straw, peanut hulls, pecan shells, grass clippings, chopped leaves, old newspapers, sawdust, wood chips and compost. I prefer organic mulches because they decompose and add nutrients to the soil. An effective layer of organic mulch should be about 3 inches deep. If the mulch settles, add more. Mulch can be spread too deeply, smothering desirable plants. Mulch in moderation.
Sources that I've researched indicate that the genus, Silene (pronounced sy-LEE-nee), aka Lychnis, was named by Carl Linnaeus in 1753, probably with the mythical and not too unbelievable character Silenus in mind.
Lewd Silenus, tutor of Dionysus, satyr and drunk in bad company with a Cyclops, could not get enough of wine. Yet, he was known for his occasional wisdom, loosened by drink. He was an imaginary embodiment of these sayings:
Euripides figured him like this, exchanging with ODYSSEUS:
SILENUS
...Let me have a single cup of that (wine) and I would turn madman,
giving in exchange for it the flocks of every Cyclops
and then throwing myself into the sea from the Leucadian rock,
once I have been well drunk and smoothed out my wrinkled brow.
For if a man rejoice not in his drinking, he is mad;...
...and there is dancing withal, and oblivion of woe.
Shall not I then purchase so rare a drink,
bidding the senseless Cyclops and his central eye go hang?
Euripides, The Cyclops (420BC)
Apparently, Silenus had had too much of water.
I've often wondered what goes on in the minds of plant taxonomists when they're bestowing names. Unfortunately, few have told. We know, however, that certain plant characteristics are often the bases for botanical names.
Silene is not known for medicinal qualities, nor is it associated with wine and intoxication. Some species have burgundy-colored flowers, but not enough of them to suggest the name. Many species of Silene have sticky parts, so are commonly known as Catchfly. Another common name, shared with other plants, is Bachelor's Button. Perhaps one holds a clue.
Well before the Victorians made much of the language of flowers, plants were steeped in symbolism. Daisies, for example, symbolized innocence. White lilies symbolized virginity. Red roses symbolized love. Ivy symbolized marital fidelity. Catchfly symbolized a snare. Perhaps that thought prompted Linnaeus to bestow the name.
Being the son of a Lutheran minister and amateur botanist, Carl Linnaeus was well-acquainted with Scripture. His father, Nils, probably taught him life lessons drawn from both.
No doubt Nils also warned him from the Bible as he left for University.
Take heed to yourselves, lest at any time your hearts be overcharged with surfeiting, and drunkenness, and cares of this life, and that day come upon you unawares. (Luke 21:34)
Let us walk honestly, as in the day; not in rioting and drunkenness, not in chambering and wantonness, not in strife and envying. (Romans 13:13)
Surfeiting, drunkenness, rioting, chambering, wantonness, strife, envying and cares take their toll. Silenus, entrapped by greedy King Midas and wine, burst out, “Oh, wretched ephemeral race … why do you compel me to tell you what it would be most expedient for you not to hear? What is best of all is utterly beyond your reach: not to be born, not to be, to be nothing. But the second best for you is—to die soon.”
Having been well-trained in Latin, Greek, Hebrew, theology, mathematics and botany, it's not much of a stretch to speculate that Linnaeus reflected on Catchfly and named it after tragic Silenus. Perhaps he even had a bit of personal experience from university life to draw upon.
Silene is a genus of about 700 species, distributed throughout the northern hemisphere. Some were formerly included in the Lychnis genus. Fewer than three dozen species are commercially available. Bloom time is generally from late spring to early summer. Most thrive in USDA climate zones 4 through 9. Average garden soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8 is fine. Drought-tolerance varies by species. Deer do not care to eat Silene.
Perennial borders, butterfly gardens, hummingbird gardens should include Silene. Flowers are good for cutting, too. Theme gardens emphasizing popular Victorian plants, the language of flowers, myth and legend would be perfect for Silene.
If you would like to grow Silene, choose a site in full sun to partial shade. Take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. You will pay a small fee. If your soil is not friable, cultivate to a depth of 8 inches. Add fertilizer and other amendments as recommended. Remove all traces of weeds.
Water the plants in their pots. Allow them to drain. With a garden trowel, dig holes twice as large as the pots. Space the plants about 12 inches apart. (Larger growing species can be planted farther apart.) Remove the plants from their containers, add water to the planting hole, fill in around (not on top of) the root balls with native soil. Water again. A light top-dressing of mulch may help to retain moisture and discourage weeds until your plants are established.
Silene, especially S. coronaria 'Gardener's World' with it's white foliage and striking red blooms, will certainly captivate your garden visitors. While you have their attention, instruct them in life lessons drawn from plants.
Gardening is a continuous process of sowing, transplanting, dividing, pruning, fertilizing, irrigating, protecting, mulching, mowing, weeding, composting and fixing things.
Here are a few gardening tasks for May organized by region.
Northeast States: It's still possible to have late frost. Plant bare-root perennials, trees, shrubs. Continue planting and transplanting cold-hardy plants outdoors. Sow or transplant warm-season vegetables and herbs, but be ready to protect them from cold. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided. Prune shrubs and trees. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials as they emerge. Continue spring cleanup. Begin watering if the season is dry.
Mid-Atlantic States: It's still possible to have late frost. Plant bare-root and container-grown perennials, potted roses, cool-season vegetable sets, annuals and strawberries in outdoor beds. Sow warm-season vegetables and herbs outdoors. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Prune trees, summer- and fall-blooming shrubs. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials. Continue rose care. Fertilize shrubs, annuals and container gardens every 10 to 14 days. Mulch trees and shrubs to conserve moisture. Mow lawn regularly.
Mid-South States: Frost is still possible. Continue planting trees and shrubs and container gardens. Sow vegetable and herb seeds in the garden. Transplant vegetable and herbs outdoors. Finish pruning spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Continue to remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Lightly fertilize annuals and vegetable seedlings. Fertilize spring bulbs when flowering is complete. Continue spraying fruit trees. Apply mulch to newly planted plants. Continue rose care. Install sod. Mow lawn regularly.
Lower South and Gulf States: Continue to plant container-grown trees and shrubs. Continue to divide and transplant perennials. Continue to plant container gardens. Sow warm-season annuals, vegetables and herbs. Transplant warm-season vegetable and herb seedlings. Shear spring-blooming trees and shrubs now that flowering is complete. Shear conifers and evergreen shrubs. Pinch planted mums to delay bloom. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize camellias, azaleas, annuals, container gardens, summer bulbs, fruit trees. Spray fruit trees with insecticide and fungicide. Continue rose care. Plant warm-season grass seed and install sod if you can irrigate regularly.
Plains and Rocky Mountain States: It's still possible to have late frost. If you have flats of growing warm-season annuals and vegetables, transplant them into larger containers. Transplant summer bulbs from containers to the garden. Continue planting and transplanting cold-hardy plants outdoors. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided. Prune shrubs and trees. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials as they emerge. Complete spring cleanup, if you haven't already. Continue rose care. Thin vegetables in the garden.
Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Continue planting trees, shrubs, summer bulbs, annuals and vegetable sets. Divide summer- and fall-blooming perennials. Sow vegetable, annual and herb seeds. Shear conifers. Prune spring-flowering trees and shrubs since bloom is complete. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize azaleas, camellias, summer bulbs, vegetables, fruit trees, annuals, container gardens (including house plants). Continue rose care. Sow grass seed or install sod. Continue lawn care.
Pacific Northwest States: It's still possible to have late frost. Plant shrubs, trees, summer bulbs. Plant annuals, warm-season vegetables and herb sets, and sow warm-season annuals, vegetables and herb seeds, but be prepared to protect if late frost arrives. Divide crowded perennials. Shear evergreen shrubs and conifers. Prune spring-flowering plants when bloom is complete. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize azaleas, camellias when bloom is complete. Fertilize fruit trees, container gardens, annuals, vegetables and herbs. Continue rose care. Mulch trees, shrubs and vegetables.
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