False Shamrock - Of Hoods and Bells and Fairy Green

There is a bank (I love it well)
Where climbs the sorrel of the wood,
Here breathes, how frail! a puce-veined bell,
There snowy droops its crumpled hood.
With knotted roots of tinctured strings
A tender tapestry it weaves,
Whilst folding back like soft green wings
The lappets of its cloven leaves.
It is a dainty sight, I ween,
Of hoods, and bells, and fairy green ;
But when the dews of evening fall,
They mutely bless the Lord of all,
And, closing, wait the daylight's call!
Hard by, o'ershadowed by the forest trees,
Like partial snowshowers, wood anemones
Outstretched in level masses of white shade
People with magic companies the glade,
As fairy-land borne flying on the breeze
Had lighted round gnarled oaks of centuries,
While Spring repairs her roofless palaces.
    - Rev. Charles Armstrong Fox (19th century English pastor, poet, theologian)

The magical charm of wood sorrel captures the imagination even now as it did for Charles Fox, the poet of Keswick.  (You have to get down on your knees, close and personal to appreciate things like that.)  In addition to poetry, he published a few books of Keswick theology, a controversial view among Protestants, which emphasized a higher level of Christian spirituality.  His books included Victories and Safeguards, Ankle Deep, and Conquered and Kept.  A very devout man and a leader in the early days of the Keswick Convention, Rev. Fox reveled in nature and blessed its Creator.  Certainly, nature's delights are plentiful, so he had a lot to be thankful for.

Fairies and magic are often associated with wood sorrel because of its resemblance to the Irish shamrock.  Potted oxalis plants are traditionally given around St. Patrick's Day.  But wood sorrel isn't called False Shamrock for nothing, for true shamrock is actually clover (Trifolium repens or T. dubium).  Nevertheless, don't let that little bit of knowledge spoil your fun.  White clover is nowhere near as appealing as oxalis in a decorative planter or in the garden.

Wood Sorrel (aka False Shamrock) belongs to the genus, Oxalis, and is a member of the Oxalidaceae family.  Oxalis consists of about 800 species which are native worldwide.  Some are annuals; others are perennials.  Indigenous people and little boys around the world have munched on sorrels for food and fun.  The leaves may be eaten alone or added to salads.  The plants contain oxalic acid, which gives them a sour but refreshing taste.

A childhood friend of mine, who I shall call 'Andy Hitt' to protect his identity, said that wood sorrel and sheep sorrel, both containing oxalates, tasted that way because his dog, Bud, had peed on them.  As it turns out, oxalates are eliminated by urine, so now that I think of it he might not have been kidding.

Though oxalic acid can be dangerous in large amounts, oxalicacidinfo.com assures that it's highly unlikely occasionally eating sorrels would have any toxic effect.  That's good to know.

One species of False Shamrock, O. acetosella, has been eaten to sustain life during famine. Edmund Spenser, by no means a friend of the Irish, wrote in his View of the State of Ireland during a Famine, "Out of every corner of the wods and glynnis they come creeping forth upon their hands, for their legs could not bear them; they looked like anatomies of death; they spoke like ghosts crying out of their graves; they did eat the dead carrions; and if they found a plot of watercresses or shamrocks, they flocked as to a feast..."

There are several important Oxalis species grown ornamentally:  O. adenophylla, O. brasiliensis, O. deppei (syn. O. tetraphylla), O. lasiandra, O. triangularis and O. versicolor.

Hardiness varies by species.  Where they are hardy, they are excellent for bulb gardens, perennial gardens and borders, and naturalizing.  Plant oxalis tubers 12 inches to 15 inches apart and 1 inch to 1-1/2 inches deep in full sun to partial shade in average, well-drained garden soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.  Planting depth is measured to the bottom of the hole.  Oxalis can be grown in any climate in container gardens, and they may be grown indoors or out.

If planting in the garden, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  For a small fee, they will send it to a lab for analysis and return a report to you.  Your soil sample report will include recommendations for amending the soil.  If planting in containers, use a good grade of sphagnum-based potting soil.

Unless you are naturalizing them in the lawn, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  A good practice is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden.  Don't let synthetic fertilizer come into direct contact with plants.

When your False Shamrocks begin to sprout and bloom, you'll agree with Rev. Fox, "It is a dainty sight, I ween, of hoods, and bells, and fairy green."

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Star Of Bethlehem: Flower of the Virgin's Child

"Ah me!" the lonely stranger said,
"The hope which led my footsteps on,
And light from heaven around them shed,
O'er weary wave and waste, is gone!

..."And what am I, o'er such a land
The banner of the Cross to bear?
Dear Lord, uphold me with Thy hand,
Thy strength with human weakness share!"

He ceased; for at his very feet
In mild rebuke a floweret smiled;
How thrilled his sinking heart to greet
The Star-flower of the Virgin's child!

In poetic verse, John Greenleaf Whittier told the story of a Christian missionary wearied and discouraged in his efforts to carry the Gospel to Iran.  But upon seeing a flower known as Star Of Bethlehem at his feet, he was heartened to carry on his very difficult work.

Readers during the Victorian era were very romantic in their outlook, as their art attests.  That a flower might suggest the "star in the east" to a weary evangelist and encourage him seems far-fetched to cynical moderns.  We would be more inclined to accept its botanical name, Ornithogalum (pronounced or-ni-THOG-al-um), which means "bird milk". ("Bird milk", also known as "crop milk", is supposed to allude to the color of the flowers.) But we gardeners will tend to appreciate the symbolism of the Natal Star since we are hopeless romantics.

The genus, Ornithogalum, is a member of the Hyacinthaceae family and consists of about twenty species.  Flowers are white, except for O. dubium which produces orange and yellow ones.  Different species are native to southern Europe, north Africa and South Africa. Though generally hardy in USDA climate zones 8 to 11, they are effective in container gardens in cooler regions.  Where they may be grown outdoors over winter, they are excellent for bulb gardens, perennial gardens and borders, and naturalizing.  They are superb for cutting, lasting a couple of weeks or more in flower arrangements.

Ornithogalums require little attention.  Plant them in spring in full sun to partial shade and in average, well-drained garden soil. Recommended pH is from 6.1 to 7.8.

Fragrant flowers appear in late spring to mid-summer.  After blooming the leaves will eventually turn brown. Allow the leaves to turn brown before removing them.  Early removal of foliage prevents the bulbs from storing reserves for the following year.

Before planting, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  For a small fee, they will send it to a lab for analysis and return a report to you.  Your soil sample report will include recommendations for amending the soil.  Follow them.

Unless you are naturalizing them in the lawn, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  A good practice is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden.  Don't let synthetic fertilizer come into direct contact with plants.

Plant Ornithogalum bulbs about 3 inches deep and 6 inches apart in spring.  Depth is measured to the bottom of the hole.

By the way, the bulbs look like little onions.  One species, O. longibracteatum, is called Pregnant Onion or False Sea Onion.  But don't let the resemblance fool you.  Though some species are edible, others contain a heart-stopping steroid called cardenolide.  Don't eat any of them.

As gardeners, we know how flowers lift our spirits.  We don't mind the work because the rewards are so great.  Plant Star Of Bethlehem bulbs and you'll be heartened when they bloom.

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Nerine - The Legendary Guernsey Lily

Far in the East, and long to us unknown,
A lily bloom'd, of colours quaint and rare ;
Not like our lilies, white, and dimly fair,
But clad like Eastern monarch on his throne.
A ship there was by stress of tempest blown,
And wreck'd on beach, all sandy, flat, and bare;—
The storm-god bated of his rage to spare
The queenly flower, foredoom'd to be our own.
The Guernsey fisher, seeking what the sea
Had stolen to aid his hungry poverty,
Starts to behold the stranger from afar,
And wonders what the gorgeous thing might be,
That like an unsphered and dejected star
Gleam'd in forlorn and mateless majesty.

-Hartley Coleridge (1796-1849, son of Samuel Taylor Coleridge)

Thus did Coleridge tell the story of The Guernsey Lily in poetic verse.  To substantiate it, he included a quote from Beckman's Inventions, Vol. III.

The Guernsey Lily was also a plant of interest to The Rev. William Herbert (1778-1847), botanist, poet and Anglican clergyman.  Herbert was an expert in the Amaryllidaceae family, and he recognized the Guernsey lily as a member.  Furthermore, he was well aware that Francis Masson (1741-1805) had collected specimens during his botanical exploration of the Cape of South Africa (1772-1775) for Kew Gardens.

It's quite possible that Guernsey lilies were found in Japan.  Foreign trade was far more widespread and sophisticated prior to the 18th century than we give credit for.  Or Kaempher and Thunberg, whom Beckman referenced, might have mistaken Lycoris (also in the Amaryllidaceae family) for Guernsey lilies.

Nevertheless, the tale of the ill-fated ship and the introduction of the plant to the rocky shores of Guernsey apparently caught the fancy of Herbert.  Being a scholar and poet himself, he must have known lines such as these:

Often in autumn-time when the grapes are ripening, a Nereis climbs the rocks, and under cover of the shades of night brushes the sea-water from her eyes with a leafy vine-spray, and snatches sweet clusters from the hills. Often is the vintage sprinkled by the neighbouring foam; Satyri plunge into the waters, and Panes from the mountain are fain to grasp the Sea-Nymph as she flies naked through the waves.
-Statius, Silvae 2. 2

So, Herbert named the autumn-blooming genus Nerine (pronounced ne-REE-nee), the patronym of the watery nymphs known as Nereids, daughters of Nereus, who lived with him in a silvery cavern beneath the Aegean Sea.  In Greek mythology, Nereids were patrons of seafarers, often coming to their rescue from shipwrecks.  Shipwrecked or not, sailors were always glad to see women, even if they smelled like fish.

The genus consists of about thirty species.  Colors range from white to pink and red.  They are effective in container gardens, bulb gardens and borders.  Guernsey lilies are wonderful for cutting.  (Incidentally, the island is legendary for the Guernsey cut flower industry.)  They are also superb for naturalizing. 

Nerines need very little attention.  Plant them in spring.  After blooming in fall, the leaves persist throughout the winter, and turn yellow in late spring.  The bulbs are dormant during summer.  During blooming and while foliage is present, they require moist, well-drained soil.  Drier soil is good during dormancy.  In fact, nerine tolerate summer drought quite well.  As with all bulbs, allow the leaves to turn brown before removing them.  Early removal prevents the bulbs from storing reserves for the following year.

Plant hardiness differs according to species, but generally hardy from USDA climate zones 8 to 10, requiring full sun to partial shade and soil high in organic matter.  Recommended pH is from 6.1 to 7.8.

Before planting, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  For a nominal fee, they will send it to a lab for analysis and return a report to you.

Unless you are naturalizing them in the lawn, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 10" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep.  Common soil amendments include sulfur for lowering pH, limestone for raising pH, sand for helping drainage, clay for slowing drainage, gypsum for breaking up caking clay and compost for enriching the soil.  Bone meal is especially good for bulbs.  Which you should use depends upon the recommendations of the lab analysis based upon your particular circumstance.

Your soil sample report will include fertilizer recommendations.  A good practice is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden.  Don't let synthetic fertilizer come into direct contact with plants.

Plant nerine bulbs about 8 inches deep and 8 inches apart in spring.  Depth is measured to the bottom of the hole.

After long winters, we yearn to be rescued by spring flowers.  But we often forget that when autumn-time comes we need those strange lilies that appear like stars in our gardens.  Consider planting Guernsey lilies this spring.

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FAQ: Which mondo or other ground cover might work best?

Q. I have two separate areas, one is 90% shade (30' x 30'), the other is 100% sun (200' x 125'); both slope, so drain well.  The soil is clay. Can you recommend which mondo (or other ground cover) might work best? At present I have "regular" lawn that needs mowing every two weeks. It seemed that dwarf mondo might be my best alternative, but the more I read up on it, it seems to work best in mostly shade, if so, again, could you recommend a "mondo" type grass that would work in full sun? I like that the dwarf mondo grows to only 3" or 4" tall.

A. You want to replace your lawn grass with a low-maintenance ground cover.  Dwarf mondo would work well in full sun or shade. My article, Mondo Possibilities For Your Landscape, explains more. For covering an area the size you described with dwarf mondo will require patience. Lirope spicata might be a better choice. It grows taller, about the height of regular mondo, but spreads more rapidly. You can learn more about it from my article, Liriope: A Favorite Ground Cover.

If liriope or mondo are planted in full sun, experience drought and you fail to water, the leaf tips may turn brown. Severe drought might make all the foliage roll up and/or turn brown. But I've laid bare root divisions of liriope and mondo out on hot concrete in full sun for several days, and they revived when planted and watered. However I wouldn't make abuse a regular practice.

The advantage of liriope and mondo over grass, however, is that both will grow well in shade while grass may not. Liriope spicata is cold-hardier than mondo.

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Lycoris - Speaking of Naked Ladies

Plants in the genus Lycoris (pronounced LY-kor-iss or ly-KOR-iss) are sometimes called Naked Ladies.  The name refers to the fact that the blooms appear in the fall not clothed in foliage.   There are, in fact, several plants that share that name.   So, as I mentioned in my blog article on Colchicum, to walk into your local garden center and ask for Naked Ladies may not only cause some confusion, but might get you in trouble.

Apparently for the same reason that Lycoris are called Naked Ladies, the genus is also named for a notorious Roman actress and mime.  Mime was very popular with the ruling classes of 1st century Rome, as were illicit affairs.  Some said she was a common prostitute, perhaps because she had once been a slave, or they were jealous.  Lycoris was her "art" name.  She was also known as Cytheris.  She must have been a delightful beauty, talented and discrete for her paramours included such notables as Publius Volumnius, Mark Antony and Cornelius Gallus.  It was Gallus, the poet, who immortalized her in verse, even after she dumped him.

It was not Gallus who wrote the sad lyrics,

Don't speak

I know just what you're saying

So please stop explaining

Don't tell me cause it hurts

Don't speak

I know what you're thinking

I don't need your reasons

Don't tell me cause it hurts

Volumnius, who appeared in Shakespeare's Julius Caesar, was not given volumes to speak, either; just three lines.  It was Mark Antony who wanted everyone to lend him their ears while he did the talking.

The genus consists of a dozen or more species native from Iran to Japan and southeast Asia.  Plants are dormant during summer.  Flowering is during fall, and colors range from white to pink, red, yellow and orange.  Lycoris are effective in container gardens, bulb gardens and borders.  They are also superb for naturalizing.  Lycoris are very easy to care for.  In fact, they often pop up in lawns and around old farmsteads where they have received no attention for years.  As with all bulbs, allow the leaves to turn brown before removing them.  Early removal prevents the bulbs from storing reserves for the following year.

Plant hardiness differs according to species, but generally hardy from USDA climate zones 7 to 10, requiring full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil, preferably high in organic matter.  Recommended pH is from 6.1 to 7.5.

Before planting, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  For a nominal fee, they will send it to a lab for analysis and return a report to you.

Unless you are naturalizing them in the lawn, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Common soil amendments include sulfur for lowering pH, limestone for raising pH, sand for helping drainage, clay for slowing drainage, gypsum for breaking up caking clay and compost for enriching the soil.  Bone meal is especially good for bulbs.  Which you should use depends upon the recommendations of the lab analysis based upon your particular circumstance.

Your soil sample report will also include fertilizer recommendations.  A good all-around practice is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden.  Be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

Plant lycoris bulbs 5 to 6 inches deep and 6 to 12 inches apart in the fall.  Depth is measured to the bottom of the hole.  Unless snow or rainfall is inadequate, irrigation should not be necessary.  Slightly moist, well-drained soil is preferred, though summer drought during the dormant period is okay.

Lycoris radiata is the source of the toxic drug, lycorine, which has been used in Chinese medicine as an expectorant (makes one cough up mucus) and emetic (makes one vomit).  It's no wonder because the body doesn't want it in there.  So, it must be noted that all parts of the plant are toxic when ingested.

It's fascinating to grow a plant that brings to mind such colorful characters.  With a couple dozen lycoris bulbs hidden in your garden, history, legend and art will spring up and delight you every autumn.

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About Ixia

The genus, Ixia (pronounced IKS-ee-uh), includes about fifty species. Ixia is native to the western and southern parts of South Africa.  The genus was discovered and named during the late 1700s, though Linnaeus originally classified it as Gladiolus.  It's easy to understand why he did because the similarity is strong.  Among their most obvious shared characteristics are corms, sword-like foliage and flower arrangement on the stems.  Ixia and Gladiolus are members of the Iridaceae family (Iris).

But Ixia wasn't called Gladiolus for long.  Of course, names are given to plants for good reasons.  Sometimes names are bestowed to honor a notable person or to describe some characteristics of the plant, for example.  The name, Ixia, may have seemed all too obvious to Linneaus, but now after about 240 years no one actually knows why he named it so.  It is undoubtedly a latinized form derived from some Greek word.  Could it be from ixos, referring to its sticky sap that reminded Linnaeus of bird-lime?  Bird-lime is a viscous substance that is spread on tree branches to trap delicious birds.

South African botanist Gwendoline Joyce Lewis opined that the name was derived from the Greek word, ixia, which referred to a "chameleon plant" so called for its variable flower colors.  Her theory, apparently, was that Linnaeus thought of the changeable characteristics of chameleons, so he gave the name to this new African genus because of the variable colors between its species.  (To confirm this, I can't find the actual paper she wrote, though it is often referenced in articles on Ixia.)  As it turns out, some of the plants formerly considered to be ixias have since been classified into other genera, so now, the genus is not so variable any more.

But there is one commonly called "chameleon plant" because its flowers are long like chameleon's tongues, and its seeds are sticky like chameleon's tongues.  It is a mistletoe, Loranthus.  As a matter of fact, Italians used to make bird-lime of mistletoe berries, oil and turpentine.  So, then, Linnaeus may have been thinking of bird-lime, after all, and of the mistletoes that went into it.

Is that confusing, or what?  Either way, the name doesn't pretend to describe the beauty of this showy flower.

Why should all that etymology and plant taxonomy matter to us?  Well, because we're gardeners!

Ixia, also known as African Corn Lily, produces star-shaped flowers in a rainbow of various colors on 18" long wiry stems in mid-spring.  The species hybridize easily, so new forms may appear.  The strap-live leaves are quite handsome.  You can plant them in spring anywhere in the garden or in containers.  Cut flowers are long-lasting.  Fragrance is pleasant but discrete, sort of like the vegetable flowers in your garden.  Ixia is ideal for bee and butterfly gardens.

Ixia is cold hardy in USDA climate zones 9 and 10, but the corms are so inexpensive that gardeners in colder zones treat them as annuals. Plant ixia corms 3" to 6" apart and about 6" deep in full sun to partial shade in average, well-drained garden soil.  Ideal pH ranges from 6.1 to 7.8.  Use a high quality grade of potting soil if growing in containers.  Though somewhat drought tolerant during summer months, they benefit from moist soil during the growing season. Leafy mulch is ideal.

Before planting, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  For a nominal fee, they will send it to a lab for analysis and return a report to you.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep.

Your soil sample report will include fertilizer recommendations based upon the results of the test.  A fine all-around practice for spring-flowering bulbs is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden.  Repeat the application when shoots appear, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

Planted liberally, Ixia will make a wonderful show in your spring garden.  The flowers are fine for cutting and arrangements, too.  You'll be glad you tried this beautiful South African native.

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Lovin' The Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden

Garland Road in Dallas, Texas is a busy thoroughfare on the east side of the city. Driving southwest from Garland toward the city center, bustling traffic doesn't allow a driver to take his eyes off the road for long. Frankly, there doesn't seem to be any reason to look around. Much of the area looks worn. But a long brick wall conceals one of the loveliest spots in the city: The Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden.

In the early 1930s, Everette DeGolyer (1886-1956), a geologist who contributed significantly to the development of the oil industry, chaired a committee to find a site for an arboretum. Perhaps while he was engaged in this endeavor, he found a tract of land overlooking Dallas's White Rock Lake.

White Rock Lake was originally established as a water reservoir to serve the needs of Dallas following a severe drought around 1909. The dairy farm was flooded. The lake was completed by 1912 and immediately became popular as a recreation area. White Rock Lake Park was established in 1929. Wealthy citizens began to purchase property overlooking the scenic landscape. Everett and his wife, Nell Goodrich DeGolyer (1887-1972), purchased the property he found on the eastern shore, not for an arboretum but for a home site.

The DeGolyer home was built in 1939 in the Latin Colonial Revival style, but designed to look like it was a century older. It was a most impressive house with twenty-one thousand square feet and served by central air-conditioning and heating. They called it "Rancho Encinal" because of the many encinas (live oaks) on the grounds.

Over fifty years after DeGolyer's committee began its search, the arboretum became a reality, ironically, at "Rancho Encinal." After purchasing the estate from Southern Methodist University, the City of Dallas began work to create their long-awaited garden. A property neighboring the DeGolyer's home was bought. The Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Gardens opened to the public in 1984. The DeGolyer's home has been recently renovated to appear as it did in the 1940s, and is open for tours on weekends or during special events.

Some folks associate arboreta and botanical gardens with universities, boring sites set aside for research, visited occasionally by professors and students. But the Dallas Arboretum is not that. It's a delightful place for families, full of pleasure, art, music, glorious garden displays and the fun of learning. There is something always going on. This time of year, the Arboretum hosts The Great Pumpkin Festival. This year's festival began 18 September.

On the day we visited, hundreds of people were strolling along the paths, enjoying performances, enjoying the lawns, reading, photographing friends and family, and gazing across the vista at the Dallas skyline. It seemed that around every corner a wedding was beginning or in progress. Brides were posing everywhere in cowboy boots.  Some folks lingered quietly by water gardens colored by koi. Everywhere the laughter of children could be heard. I was impressed by the wonderful architectural features, sculptures, masses of mums and perennials, elegant walks, quiet pathways and fall landscapes. What a wonderful day it was.

Of course, research takes place, too. Plants of all sorts can be seen on display in trial gardens. Examples of xeriscaping taught visitors how to maintain a beautiful landscape with less water.  Xeriscaping is a concept which time has come.  But the sheer exhuberance of color and scenery demonstrates that learning can be fun and that gardening is delightful. No doubt, many who visited that day returned home inspired to start planning, planting and getting their hands dirty for the sake of beauty.

To experience this season's Great Pumpkin Festival, be sure to visit before mid-November. You can click on links above to enjoy photographs made during my visit. You'll be lovin' the Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden.

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Eucomis - Tropical Pineapple Lily

Of all the tropical bulbs I know, Pineapple Lily is one of the most amusing, resembling a tousle-headed cartoon character from outer space.  Long spikes up to 24" appear in late summer to early fall, bristling with hyacinth-like flowers and topped with a crown of leafy green.  Flower colors range from light green to purple.  The common name is inspired by the plant's resemblance to the tropical fruit.

Pineapple Lily belongs to the genus Eucomis (pronounced YOU-com-iss), which name is a combination of two Greek words meaning "beautiful hair of the head".  It is a member of the Hyacinthaceae family.  Eucomis comprises about a dozen species native to South Africa, Botswana, Lesotho, Swaziland, Malawi and Zimbabwe.  Their native habitat includes grassy savannas, forests, near rivers and swamps.  They are rarely found in arid regions.

Eucomis was introduced in 1878 by the famous James Veitch and Sons nursery near Exeter.  The Veitch nursery was one of the most important nurseries in the UK.  The family is immortalized in the names of many ornamental landscape plants.

Eucomis adds a bold, tropical appearance to the landscape.  It is very suitable for perennial borders and container gardens.  An African or tropical theme garden would be incomplete without lots of them. 

Pineapple lily is cold hardy in USDA climate zones 7b to 11. Gardeners in colder climates lift and store them over winter for planting the following spring.  Take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office before planting.  For a nominal fee, they will send it to a lab for analysis and recommendations.

Eucomis prefers full sun and average, well-drained garden soil.  Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  A good all-around practice for bulbs and such is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden.  Repeat the application when growth appears, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

Plant the Eucomis bulbs about 4" deep.  Depth is measured to the bottom of the hole.  Space the bulbs 8" to 12" apart.

Eucomis requires very little maintenance.  It is perennial, so you can leave the plants undisturbed for years.  Water regularly, but don't over-water.  If planted in a windy area, the flower stalks may require staking.  After blooming, be sure to let the leaves yellow and die before cutting them.  Leaving them alone will allow the bulbs to build up food reserves for a glorious show the next year.

Though introduced over 130 years ago, Eucomis may be a new discovery to many gardeners, and perhaps to you.  If you've not tried this novel Pineapple Lily, you should include it in your garden this coming spring.

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Discover Hardy Gloxinia

Alexander von Humboldt (1769 - 1859), German traveler and explorer once complained, "People often say that I'm curious about too many things at once: botany, astronomy, comparative anatomy.  But can you really forbid a man from harbouring a desire to know and embrace everything that surrounds him?"

Humboldt had been trained in biology, geology, chemistry, physics and history.  With knowledge and wanderlust, he followed his passion and traveled to South America to explore the continent.  Following his five-year journey, he published over the next twenty years a thirty volume account of his exploration, and introduced the world to wonders of that continent.  Charles Darwin considered him "the greatest scientific traveler who ever lived."

Pierre Nicolas Le Chéron d'Incarville, following his passion, also introduced the world to exotic wonders.  Those, however, were of the Orient.  d'Incarville's first passion was to take Christianity to China.  As a Jesuit missionary, he was charged to convert the Qianlong Emperor.  The emperor was not interested, but they developed mutual respect based upon their common interest in plants.  While in China, d'Incarville wrote several works on China which were published in Europe, including a French-Chinese dictionary.  He also catalogued Chinese plants and sent back seeds unknown to Europe.

A genus of plants which he introduced to the West was given his name to honor his work:  Incarvillea (pronounced in-car-VIL-ee-uh).  The genus contains about 16 species, all native to central and eastern Asia.

Jean Marie Delavay (1834–1895) was another who was curious about many things at once.  A French missionary to China, he was also passionate about plants and exploration.  His missionary zeal worked both ways, for as he worked to introduce Chinese to Christ, he worked to introduce France to the plants of China.  He sent over 200,000 specimens to his homeland.  From them, over 1500 new species were discovered.

Several plants commemorate Father Delavay's work in their names.  One is Incarvillea delavayi (pronounced del-uh-VAY-ee), a species that honors two great plant explorers at once. 

I. delavayi, also known as hardy gloxinia, is a lovely selection for the garden.  With velvety, deciduous foliage, it grows to 24" tall and produces showy pink or white flowers.  The flowers appear in late spring to mid-summer.  They're fragrant, too, and great for cutting.  Plants self-sow readily from seed.  Many gardeners include hardy gloxinias in their butterfly gardens.  They are also suitable for container gardens, and can be grown indoors.

I. delavayi is cold hardy in USDA climate zones 6 to 10.  The site should be in full sun or partial shade.  Soil should be well-drained, with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.  Incarvillea is drought-tolerant, so is often chosen for xeriscaping.  That said, however, Incarvillea flowers best when the soil is slightly moist.

As always, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office before planting.  They will send it to a lab for analysis and recommendations.  Expect to pay a nominal fee.  If you don't understand the report, ask the County Agent to interpret it for you.

Planting begins in spring.  Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  A good all-around practice is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of garden.  Repeat the application when growth appears, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

Plant hardy gloxinia tubers about 3" to 5" deep.  Depth is measured to the bottom of the hole or trench.  If the tubers are separated, they may be planted horizontally.  Recommended plant spacing is 12" to 15" apart.  Water well, then let the soil become slightly dry before watering again.  The plants don't require much maintenance.

Unfortunately, hardy gloxinias are not planted widely enough.  When discovered, gardeners often try them out of curiosity.  But it is that desire to know and embrace that characterizes plant lovers.  So follow that desire to explore.  Try hardy gloxinias in your garden.

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Enjoy The Fragrance Of Summer Hyacinth

When warm breezes bear their fragrances, Summer Hyacinth should be among them.  Also known as Galtonia candicans, Summer Hyacinth brings the beauty of hyacinths to your late summer garden.  It's a member of the Hyacinthaceae family, perennial plants that grow from flower bulbs.  The blooms are much taller than Dutch Hyacinths.  Flowers are produced in late summer to early fall on stems up 48" to long.  After flowering, the leaves yellow and die.

The genus, Galtonia (pronounced gal-TOH-nee-ah), was named to honor the brilliant Sir Francis Galton (1855 - 1911).  Galton was a man of exceptional genius and a member of a family of Victorian notables, including Charles Darwin.  Not simply a dabbler, he was an accomplished explorer, anthropologist, inventor, meteorologist, geographer and statistician.  Galton also founded such disciplines as eugenics and psychometrics, and laid the foundation in the study of genetics.

G. candicans (pronounced KAN-dee-kans) is arguably the most popular of the few Galtonia species.  Candicans refers to the white color of the bell-shaped flowers.  It is native to South Africa.

Summer Hyacinth is cold hardy in USDA climate zones 6 to 8 if mulched during winter.  It is completely cold hardy in climate zones 9 to 10.  Gardeners in colder climates can grow Summer Hyacinth plants in containers or in the garden, dig them in fall, and store them over winter.  However, it must be noted that Summer Hyacinths really don't like to be disturbed.

Summer Hyacinths thrive in full sun and well-drained soil.  Best pH should range from 6.5 to 7.5.

As always, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office before planting.  They will send it to a lab for analysis and recommendations.  Expect to pay a nominal fee.  If you don't understand the report, ask the County Agent to interpret it for you.

Planting begins in spring.  Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  A good all-around practice for bulbs and such is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden.  Repeat the application when growth appears, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

Plant the bulbs about 6" deep.  Depth is measured to the bottom of the hole.  Recommended plant spacing is 8" to 12" apart.

The plants require very little maintenance.  Plant them and forget about them.  They are wonderful for bulb gardens, perennial gardens, container gardens.  Summer Hyacinths are superb as cut flowers.  They last a long time.  The white blooms are wonderful when contrasted with plants having darker colored foliage and flowers.  After blooming, be sure to let the leaves yellow and die before cutting them.  Leaving them alone will allow the bulbs to build up food reserves for a glorious show the next year.  Believe me, a generous planting of Summer Hyacinths will delight the eye and nose.

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Enchanting Hardy Cyclamen

I pluck the cyclamen
red by wine-red
and place the petals
stiff ivory and bright fire
against my flesh

Now I am powerless 
to draw back
for the sea is cyclamen-purple
cyclamen red, colour of the last grapes
colour of the purple of the flowers
cyclamen-coloured and dark.
 - H.D., from The God

Cyclamen (pronounced SIGH-kla-men) is a genus of 23 species of perennials mostly native to the Mediterranean region, and often naturalized elsewhere.  The name refers to the twisted flower stalks of some species.  Flower colors range from white to deep burgundy.  With their alluring, swept-back petals and charming foliage, cyclamen are captivating.  Perhaps that is why some are so popular as gift plants.

Daniel Foley, Editor of Horticulture and staff member of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, wrote that Cyclamen europaeum "which was dedicated to Mary was also used as a charm against bad weather. From the angle of its blooms on their stems it was known in Germany as Our Lady's Little Ladles."  Others, Paghat for example, suggest that the genus has associations with witchcraft (that's possible) and that the oil of cyclamen applied externally has mysterious powers beneficial to women (that's doubtful).

In literature, cyclamen were considered to be so enchanting that children seeking them in the forests might never return.

The gentle cyclamen with dewy eye
Breathes o'er her lifeless babe
The parting sigh;
And bending low with pious hands
Inhumes her dear departed in the sands.
Sweet Nursling, withering in thy tender hour,
"Oh, sleep," She cries and rise a fairer flower!"
- Erasmus Darwin, The Botanic Garden

It's more complicated, but you can see the symbol of the BVM in Darwin's poem.  Keep in mind that, like very many ornamental plants, cyclamen are toxic if eaten.

Unfortunately, the most popular gift species, C. persicum, is not cold-hardy, so it comes as a surprise to many of today's gardeners that some cyclamen species may actually be grown outdoors.  But gardeners in ages past knew it for hardy cyclamen, flowering in autumn and winter, were often grown in cemeteries to provide seasonal color.

Cyclamen hederifolium, also known as C. neapolitanum, (seen in the photo above) may take cold weather best.  Hederifolium (pronounced hed-er-ih-FOH-lee-um) means "having leaves like Hedera (the ivy genus).  Common names include Hardy Cyclamen and Ivy-Leaved Cyclamen.  It is certainly the most widely cultivated among the hardy cyclamen.  It is a lovely little plant, native from southern France to western Turkey, that adds charm to the shady corner of your garden.  You'll enjoy the ivy-shaped, variegated foliage and fragrant, pink flowers from late summer to early fall.  Though very similar in appearance to the florist cyclamen, hardy cyclamen thrives outdoors in USDA zones 5 through 9, performing best in light shade.  It even produces seed and self-sows readily when conditions are to its liking.  Soil should be well-drained but slightly moist.  Take care not to over-water.  Recommended pH is 6.1 to 7.8.  Take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Service office to determine the soil pH.

They can be grown from seeds, stem tubers or established plants.  Planting stem tubers combines reliability and economy.

Cyclamen tubers will be firm.  Roots grow from the sides and bottom.  The tops will be slightly rough with some little bumps from which new growths emerge.  Plant cyclamen tubers in the spring.  When planting, space the tubers about 10" to 12" apart and cover with 1" to 2" of soil.  Water well and gently, taking care not to wash the tubers out of the soil.  Allow the soil to become dry before watering again.

Hardy cyclamen are sure to delight you.  Whether they will ward off bad weather or bestow mysterious benefits is doubtful.  But I believe that if you plant some in your garden and become beguiled by their beauty, you will still return safely indoors.

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FAQ: Why do my grapes fall off the vines?

Q. I have Muscadine vines that have, after many years, covered my arbor.  It's about 12' x 18' x 8' high.  The soil is very poor,  yellow sandy soil.  I have 6 or 7 plants planted around the perimeter which now cover the top.  I give each each plant 4 or 5 cups of 10-10-10 fertilizer in February and I give them a lesser amount in June.  I have never pruned these vines, but I intend to this February.  I generally do not water them, except in very dry weather.  This arbor does not get full sun, probably one side gets morning sun and the other side gets afternoon sun.  My problem is, I get a good stand of fruit, but the fruit falls off when the grapes are very small.  I got like two very small grapes that actually ripened.  Also, I noticed some of the leaves were being eaten by something very small.  I never could see the culprit.  Not all over the arbor, just here and there.  Would you have any idea why my grapes fall off the vines and what should I do about these "bugs" eating the grape leaves?

A. I'm not sure exactly why the grapes are falling off, but if they fall off after your June fertilizer application, that could be the reason.  Ideally, your vines should receive full sun to produce higher yields, but they don't, so there's no sense in discussing that.  Muscadines are native to wooded areas anyway.  They don't naturally grow in open fields.  Excess nitrogen can cause fruit drop.  I believe this is the problem.  You probably don't need to fertilize them in June.  There may be another problem, perhaps a micro-nutrient deficiency.  Extremely dry soil conditions can also cause fruit drop, but I suspect that it's related to fertilizer application.

It sounds like the bugs (or whatever) that are eating some grape leaves are not causing a significant problem.  Some sort of beetle may be the culprit, but I wouldn't worry about it unless the problem becomes severe.

Your vines should be pruned annually, so it's good that you have that planned for this winter.

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FAQ: Do you think recycled rubber mulch is a good choice?

Photo by Magda Ehlers from Pexels

Q. Do you think recycled rubber mulch is a good choice?

A. No, I don't. Rubber mulch is usually made from old tires. While it may seem that recycling rubber in this way is a good idea, I don't agree. Rubber doesn't decompose like organic materials. Decomposed organic materials help to build soil health. Recycled rubber is easy to ignite and difficult to extinguish if set aflame by some means. Furthermore, I don't like the appearance of recycled rubber.

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The Cummer Gardens of Jacksonville, Florida

Jacksonville, Florida holds many fond memories for me.  Quite a few relatives lived there when I was a child.  Whether by automobile or different trains, the trip to Jacksonville was an adventure.  Sometimes my father, a Chiropractor and Naturopath, would include a visit to Dr. Emil Weise, another Naturopathic physician and friend.  A highlight of one trip was a visit to Aunt Anne Palmer's garden.  Meandering grassy paths wound among beds of camellias, azaleas and ginger lilies toward her greenhouse where she nurtured her orchids.  I was enchanted.  Uncle Jim, her husband, owned Packard Florida Motors Company on Riverside and Rosselle.

We returned recently to visit the Cummer Museum of Art and Gardens, just a few blocks from where Uncle Jim's business once stood.  The neighborhood has changed quite a bit since the 1950s and '60s.  Many of the old homes have been replaced, including the tudor-style home of Arthur and Ninah Cummer.  The Cummer Museum now stands on the site.  The garden is as grand and well-loved as before.

Arthur Cummer (1894-1943) was the son of a wealthy lumber magnate from Cadillac, Michigan, who found Jacksonville to be very much to his liking.  The climate and forests of Florida attracted the family.  Arthur was also a partner in the Cook-Cummer Steamship line which transported Cummer Lumber Company products to markets along the Gulf Coast and Eastern Seaboard.  Readers interested in stories involving Cummer steamships should find the New York Times accounts of the Great Jacksonville Fire of 1901 and of the sinking of the John J. Hill to be stirring.

Strong believers in civic responsibility, Arthur and Ninah Cummer (1875-1958) were actively involved in organizations to benefit the public.  As Board President, Arthur helped enlarge the historic Evergreen Cemetery of Jacksonville.  Ninah, an art collector, passionate gardener and garden club member, created an endowment in 1958 to build an art museum and to preserve her beloved gardens.

Though the appearance of much of Jacksonville's Riverside Avenue has changed, the vista from Cummer Gardens across the St. John's River is very much like the atmosphere I remember from my visit to Aunt Anne's oasis.  The Cummer Gardens, however, are far grander.

The Gardens consist of three:

• The English Garden,
• The Italian Garden,
• The Olmsted Garden.  The Olmsted Garden is currently being restored, so is not open to the public.  (The Memorial Park, designed by the Olmsted firm and located nearby, invites visitors.)

Upon entering the Gardens from the museum's Uible Loggia, the first thing to capture the eye is an elegant sculpture, Diana of the Hunt, a gift of sculptor Anna Hyatt Huntington.  (I visited Atalya, Huntington's moorish-style home/studio in South Carolina a few years after her death.  Though near the shore, it struck me as a rather bleak, fortress-like residence.)  According to myth, Diana (aka Artemis) was not as elegant as artists imagine but exquisitely bad-natured.  From the upper terrace, the enticing vista across the English Garden opens toward the beautiful St. John's River.

Moseying to the right, the Tea Garden invites the visitor to sit a moment in one of the historic barrel chairs that originally belonged to Wellington and Ada Cummer, Arthur's parents.  Concrete and mosaic pedestal planters designed by William Mercer add visual impact to the adjacent parterres.

Further along, the Peacock Fountain, also designed by Mercer, adorns the South Wall in a shady nook.  Before the Peacock Fountain, another called Two Children with a Goose fills a pool also designed by Mercer.  The original Two Children with a Goose can be seen in London's Victoria and Albert Museum.  This section is part of the English Garden, designed in 1903 by Ossian Cole Simonds (1855-1931).  Simonds was a founder of the American Society of Landscape Architects.  Cummer's English Garden was redesigned in 1910 by Thomas Meehan and Sons of Philadelphia, PA.  At river's side, a fine wisteria arbor provides a shady retreat refreshed by gentle river breezes.

One can't help but linger at the railing to enjoy the view across the St. John's river.  Mr. Cummer relished an earlier scene from his own putting green between the English and Italian gardens.  The private green, a rare pleasure in those days, was given to him by his wife, Ninah.

The Italian Garden was designed in 1931 by Ellen Biddle Shipman (1869-1950), perhaps the most significant among female American landscape architects.  Ninah Cummer commissioned the work after visiting the Villa Gamberaia near Florence, Italy   It features a gloriette, the archways of which frame a lovely fountain that replicates one Mrs. Cummer purchased in Italy in 1930.  At the end of the river walk, you will find a tile-roofed garden folly which serves no other purpose than to adorn the garden, or perhaps to offer another shady retreat for a tête-a-tête.

The North Wall of the Italian Garden is adorned with another feature designed by William Mercer.  A medallion of flamingos overlooks a lion's head planter with Della Robbia swags.

As one would expect, a pair of reflecting pools mirror all that surrounds them above and below.  The sky, roses, italian cypresses (Cupressus sempervirens)  and azaleas all shimmer in the water's surface.

Leonine motifs recur throughout the Italian Garden.  The Lion Sculpture is one of the many pieces that the Cummers purchased during their visit to Itay in 1930.  Garden benches repeat the theme.

When the Cummers began to establish their gardens, some plants now so common to the South were not well-known in Florida.  Agapanthus and azalea collections were rare.  The Cummers sought them out.  Both grow luxuriantly in the Cummer Gardens.

Upon returning to the Upper Terrace, one passes beneath the magnificent Cummer Oak.  The canopy of the verdant giant spans over 150 feet.  Aged over 175 years, it is one of the oldest and most revered trees in the city.  To rest beneath its ancient limbs and reflect upon the beauty of the garden is another of the visitor's rewards.

Thanks to the generosity of the Cummers, along with the dedication of museum staff and volunteers, the Cummer Museum of Art and Gardens presents one of the premier gardens in the United States.  Though comprised of only two acres, it is a historically significant site that you should include in your garden visits.

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How To Care For Cedar Wood Furniture

Northern White and Western Red Cedar are very desirable woods, perfect for indoor and outdoor use.  Northern White Cedar is very popular with homeowners who prefer a rustic decor for vacation homes and cabins.  Western Red Cedar is preferred by those who desire a more refined appearance.  Both are durable, resistant to insects and rot.  They can be left natural and untreated, or can be painted or stained.

If left untreated, cedar wood will turn to a silvery gray color. Untreated cedar is quite beautiful, however, the wood may become discolored by algae over time if exposed to excessive dampness in shaded areas.  A solution of 1 part non-chlorine bleach to 5 parts water with 1 ounce of detergent per gallon of solution will usually eliminate such stains.  Even after years of use, cedar can be refinished by sanding to a bright clean appearance.

If you decide to stain your cedar furniture, there are many types of stains.  Penofin is highly recommended because it enhances and maintains cedar's natural beauty. Some stains also have water and mildew repellent ingredients.  Penetrating stains soak into the wood without leaving a barrier on the surface.  So the the surface of the wood doesn't blister or peel like painted surfaces.  Natural cedar wood usually has knots, deep surface texture and other unique characteristics which are beautifully enhanced by penetrating stains.  For best results, always follow stain manufacturers' instructions.

If you opt to paint your cedar furniture, be aware that the natural color and grain of the wood will be hidden.  However, there are so many wonderful shades of paint on the market, you can let your imagination run wild.  Match your existing décor, or change the look as you wish.  Bright solid colors, floral patterns and designs from nature can be painted on the furniture.  As always, follow the manufacturers' instructions on the label for best application results.

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FAQ: What Is Recycled Poly Lumber?

Recycled poly (plastic) lumber, also known as RPL, is a product made from recovered plastic which looks like lumber and can be used as a wood substitute.  There are many applications for which RPL can be used.  RPL is increasingly used for fencing, railings, decking, flooring, retaining walls, shipping pallets, park benches and picnic tables, playground equipment, sign posts, and even for dock pilings and seawalls.  We at GoGardenNow.com include bird houses and bird feeders constructed of recycled poly lumber among our product offerings in our eBay store. 

There are several different types of recycled plastic lumber available.  The type used in our products is a high-density polyethylene, the same material found in plastic milk jugs.  Other types may include additional materials in the mix such as thermoplastic, sawdust, fiberglass, rubber, concrete, or even steel reinforcing rods.

Recycled plastic lumber has distinct advantages over wood.  It is nontoxic, nonporous, and lasts longer than wood, unless it is one of the types that contains sawdust.  RPL is moisture resistant and does not rot, therefore it does not require maintenance with sealants or preservatives.  It is chemical resistant.  It does not crack or splinter like wood.  Painting is unnecessary because the plastic is colored throughout, and the colors never fade.  Insects will not eat it, and it does not absorb bacteria or other pathogens.  As you can see, RPL is maintenance free.  Furthermore, RPL is flexible, and can be shaped with common wood-working tools.
By recycling plastics into poly lumber, wood and plastic waste in landfills is reduced.

You can feel good about purchasing bird houses and feeders constructed of recycled poly lumber, knowing that you are buying eco-friendly products that require little or no maintenance.

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How To Choose and Maintain A Birdbath

A birdbath is an essential element for bird habitat.  This article gives a few tips on how to choose and maintain a birdbath.

The birdbath in our back yard is a wonderful source of entertainment for our family.  We can see it clearly from our family room window.  The birdbath provides refreshment, discourages mites, and provides drinking water.  It's great fun to watch birds refreshing themselves in watery sprays, and it's amazing how many species are attracted to it.  Some of the species we've recently seen bathing include painted buntings and a pair of barred owls.

Whether purchasing a large or small birdbath, choose one that gently slopes toward the center.  This provides various depths for small and larger birds alike.  The water should be no deeper than 2" in the center.  The birds only want to bathe, not swim laps.

While providing a birdbath is a welcome favor, maintaining a clean one is also very important.  You wouldn't want to take a nasty bath, would you?  Cleaning your birdbath is necessary to prevent the spread of avian diseases such as Aspergillosis, Avian Pox, Salmonellosis and Trichomoniasis.  Birds who are already suffering from diseases are drawn to birdbaths just as healthy ones are.  Pathogens left behind can then infect others.

Change the water in your birdbath every day.  Wipe or brush it clean.  This will help to prevent algae buildup, as well as to remove other debris.  We have a large concrete birdbath with sloping sides, so we use a wire brush.  Rinse your birdbath, then refill it with clean water.

Disinfect your birdbath to eliminate germs and mites.  We use a solution of one part non-chlorine bleach to nine parts water, scrubbing and rinsing thoroughly one or twice per month.

Birds are especially attracted to moving water.  A dripper or spray will provide the right amount of activity.  In addition, moving water tends to discourage mosquitoes.

Birds appreciate bathing even in winter.  If you live in a region where standing water may freeze overnight, invest in a small, submersible electric heater or a heated birdbath.  When cold weather approaches, be sure to check the wiring for damage that may have occurred during storage.  Replace the appliance if damage is apparent.

Be sure to place the birdbath somewhere you can enjoy watching it.  The birds also appreciate the presence of trees or shrubs nearby so they can return to the birdbath again and again.

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Six Steps to Turn Your Yard into a Sanctuary for Birds

The following article published by the Wild Bird Feeding Industry (reproduced by permission) is full of helpful tips.

Birds need your help! Populations of many kinds of birds are declining. Habitat loss and degradation, disease, collisions with man-made structures and a host of other factors contribute to these declines. You can help by turning your yard into a sanctuary for birds.

Here are six steps you can take to make the future brighter for birds:

1. Put out the welcome mat! Habitat loss is the biggest challenge facing birds. You can help by making your neighborhood more attractive to birds by landscaping with native plants that provide natural food sources, shelter from the elements and predators, and nesting sites. Providing feeders, nest boxes and water also benefits birds. To learn how, stop by your local wild bird shop or garden retailer.

2. Prepare a proper menu. Providing the appropriate foods year round will attract more birds to your yard and help ensure that they have a safe and nutritious diet. Refill feeders regularly with food desired by birds in your area. To pick the best menu, stop by your local wild bird shop.

3. Keep feed and feeding areas clean. To help reduce the possibility of disease transmission in birds, clean feeders and feeding areas at least once a month. Plastic and metal feeders can go in the dishwasher, or rinse these and other styles with a 10% solution of bleach and warm water. Scrub birdbaths with a brush and replace water every three to five days to discourage mosquito reproduction. Rake up and dispose of seed hulls under feeders. Moving feeders periodically helps prevent the buildup of waste on the ground. Keep seed and foods dry; discard food that smells musty, is wet or looks moldy. Hummingbird feeders should be cleaned every three to five days, or every other day in warm weather. It’s good hygiene to wash your hands after filling or cleaning feeders.

4. Birds and chemicals don’t mix. Many pesticides, herbicides and fungicides are toxic to birds; avoid using these near areas where birds feed, bathe or rest. Always follow directions provided by chemical manufacturers. For additional information visit your garden retailer.

5. Keep cats away from birds. Scientists estimate that cats probably kill hundreds of millions of birds each year in the U.S. This is a big problem, but it’s easy to fix. Many people who enjoy feeding birds also love cats. The best solution is to keep cats indoors. They will lead longer, healthier lives, and your yard will be safer for birds. Install feeders in areas not readily accessible to cats or install fences or other barriers to help keep stray cats from feeder areas. Collar bells, de-clawing and keeping cats well fed will not solve the problem.

6. Reduce window collisions. Collisions with glass windows kill millions of wild birds every year. Depending on their size and location, some windows reflect the sky or vegetation, and birds are fooled into thinking they can fly through them. To eliminate this problem identify windows that cause collisions (typically larger, reflective windows, those near the ground, or those that “look through” the house). Attaching decorative decals or other decorations to the outside surface of the glass can reduce reflections. Feeder birds fleeing predators are vulnerable to window collisions. If this is happening at your house, consider moving feeders within three feet of the windows so that birds cannot accelerate to injury level speeds while flying away. Problem windows can be covered with a screen so that birds bounce off, rather than hit the glass.

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Landscaping With Native Plants On Spring Island

Coastal South Carolina is dotted with secluded island hammocks.  Many of them are pristine, or appear so.  Spring Island, near Beaufort and Hilton Head, is one.  The history of Spring Island is a fascinating tale of Indians, traders, antebellum life, Northern magnates and modern development, not unlike most of the Low-country.  But Spring Island is unique.  Carefully developed to preserve its natural beauty and seclusion, it's easy for the visitor to believe that nothing much has changed since the 1920s.

We arranged to meet with Thomas Angell of Verdant Enterprises, LLC. for a morning tour of a few of his projects on the island.  Thomas specializes in native plants, creative storm water management and imaginative landscape detailing with custom hardscape construction.

As we traveled down picturesque allees lined with magnificent live oaks, we were practically unaware of nearby residences screened from view by dense native plant growth.  Discrete address plaques barely hinted at what was hidden and growing behind those verdant garden walls.

Our first stop was at the residence of one of the area's leading proponents and experts of natural landscaping.  Unfortunately, she was away and unable to meet with us.  Thomas explained that her home was carefully sited to preserve the magnificent trees on the property, as well as to afford a splendid view of the river and marsh.  The structures do not appear to be imposed on the river bank, but to grow in harmony from it, surrounded by such local beauties as wax myrtle (Myrica cyrifera) and needle palm (Rhapidophyllum hystrix).

Both back and front of the home were beautifully landscaped exclusively with native species.  (You should know that the front of every waterfront home faces the water.  Arrival by land is through the back door. Whether through the front or back door, scrape your boots or shed them.)

An ancient oak provided shelter to blood-root (Sanguinaria canadensis), wild ginger (Asarum virginicum), trillium (T. maculatum), jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum), indian pink (Spigelia marilandica), partridge berry (Mitchella repens), along with colonies of native grasses and ferns.

I was surprised to see the blood-root, wild ginger, trillium, jack-in-the-pulpit, and indian pink, but Thomas informed me that they are actually native to the area.  Botanist and nurseryman, Daniel Payne, owner of NatureScapes Of Beaufort, confirmed it.  Daniel arrived on site unexpectedly to inspect and maintain some of the plantings.  As we walked about, Daniel explained that Beaufort County is one of the most biologically diverse counties in South Carolina, and perhaps in the Southeast, with over 1597 naturally occurring native plant species inventoried to date.

The natural design was "civilized" with some of Thomas's hardscape detailing.  A local soft stone called hardpan was quarried for benches of serpentine or semi-circular patterns.  Because of its porosity, the hardpan was topped with laminated wood seating created by a regional craftsman.

As we toured the site, I commented on a native plant that, so far as I know, is never used elsewhere.  The common names are Devil's Grandmother or Elephant's Foot (Elephantopus tomentosus).  But Thomas had used it quite effectively.  The foliage is attractive, the flowers are charming, and, of course, it grows like a weed.  We agreed that sustainable landscaping using native materials requires that we try to see things through new eyes.  It's really not that difficult or new to see things afresh; all non-native ornamentals were originally weeds from elsewhere.

The owner, Thomas and Daniel had established a display garden nearby with various other native species, and a few regional "heirloom" plants on trial.  A "midden" constructed for the garden rose above a dry stream bed designed to collect and direct storm water to a bog garden.  A pool with flowing water provided habitat for native fresh-water aquatic plants, and also created a refreshing oasis of sight and sound.

Native landscaping involves philosophical discussion.  For example, one might wonder whether or when a native plant should be considered desirable.  Such is the case in this garden with poison ivy.  The typical reaction to poison ivy (Toxicodendron radicans) is to eradicate it.  But Daniel noted one specimen on the river bank which he allowed to remain.  The foliage, he explained, is quite colorful and attractive in the fall while the towering plant provides habitat and the seeds provide food for wildlife.  It grows at some distance from foot paths.  But then, the birds drop the seeds about the landscape to propagate more.  There comes a point when enough is enough and the solution calls for a squirt of herbicide.

Thomas was curious to take a look at some other projects he had completed several years ago.  A quick look now would prepare him for upcoming appointments with the owners.  It was disappointing to see that the plantings had not been properly maintained.  In my opinion, they demonstrated a lack of sensitivity on the part of some maintenance crews, or perhaps a lack of knowledge which can be remedied.  Expanses of lovely native grasses had been mowed like sod.  Soft cushions of billowing shrubs had been flattened at breast height like table tops.  Certainly, landscaping with native plants in naturalistic settings presents a new paradigm that must be studied carefully in order to maintain and appreciate.

Considering these examples of sustainable landscaping, one might assume that a naturalistic planting of native plants is by definition no-maintenance or low-maintenance.  That is not always true.  The level of maintenance depends, as with other types of landscaping, upon the form, function and appropriateness of the whole and its parts.  A building or structure may appear to be unified with the natural surroundings, but it is not actually, and nature is always on the move.  Sooner or later, considerable maintenance is in order.  Nevertheless, landscaping with native plants is a refreshing new concept which time has come.

The following is a partial plant list of species we noted.

Aesculus pavia var. pavia
Amelanchior x Autumn Brilliance
Ampelaster caroliniana
Arisaema triphyllum
Asarum virginicum
Campsis radicans
Carex grayi
Chasmanthium laxum
Clematis catesbyana
Cocculus carolinus
Conoclinium coelestinum
Cornus asperifolia
Dichromena colorata
Elephantopus tomentusus
Erythrina herbacea
Eupatorium purpureum
Eustachys petraea
Fothergilla 'Mt. Airy'
Gelsemium sempervirens
Helianthus hirsutus
Heliotropium curassavicum
Heterotheca graminifolia
Hypericum hypericoides
Ipomoea macrorhiza
Juniperus virginiana 'Brodie'
Krigia dandelion
Lobelia cardinalis
Lyonia lucida
Mitchella repens
Monarda punctata
Myrica cerifera
Nymphea spp.
Passiflora lutea
Quercus virginiana
Rhapidophyllum hystrix
Salvia lyrata
Sanguinaria canadensis
Scuttelaria integrifolia
Serenoa repens
Spigelia marilandica
Stipa spartea
Symphotrichum concolor
Rudbeckia maxima
Ruellia carolinensis
Trillium maculatum
Tripsacum dactyloides
Toxicodendron radicans
Verbena rigida
Viburnum acerifolium
Viburnum obovatum
Vitis rotundifolia
Yucca recurvifolia

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Crocosmia - Bold, Beautiful, Easy To Grow

If the time has come for you to quit fussing over difficult plants, it's time for you to plant Crocosmia.  It's native to South Africa and northward to Malawi.  Crocosmia (pronounced kroh-KOZ-mee-uh) is a member of the Iridaceae family along with Gladiolus, Iris and Crocus.  The name, derived from Greek, means "smells like saffron" crocus.  There are about a dozen species, a few natural hybrids and about 120 cultivars.  Plant size ranges from 10" to 48" and more.  About a dozen flowers, carried on each long arching stem, may be yellow, shades of orange to red.  The colors are as hot as the bloom season: summer to fall.

Crocosmia's resemblance to gladiolus is unmistakable.  The sword-like foliage adds vertical emphasis to the garden while the bold, blazing flowers add drama.  Leaves may be evergreen or deciduous.

Corms produce more corms, and more and more, stacked on top of each other.  Older corms tend to be pulled deeper into the soil as the younger ones grow on top.  The arrangement looks like a chain of little biscuits.  The corms can be separated and replanted elsewhere.  Crocosmia also reproduces from seed.  Within a few seasons, you could have a dense bed of gorgeous, fiery blossoms.

They are superb for bulb borders, perennial gardens and even for naturalizing in meadows.  You can grow them in containers, too.  Tuck a few crocosmia corms anywhere you want a dash of color.  By the way, they attract lots of butterflies and hummingbirds!

Crocosmia normally thrives in USDA climate zones 6 through 9, so gardeners in most parts of the U.S. can enjoy them.  Some gardeners in climate zones 4 and 5 even report good success if the bed is mulched in winter.  Plant in full sun.  Average, well-drained garden soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8 is fine.

Before preparing your planting site, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  For a nominal fee, they will send the sample to a lab for analysis.  The analysis will normally be sent to you through the mail.  If the test results seem difficult to understand, don't hesitate to call your County Agent for explanation.

Crocosmia corms planted in fall will bloom the following year.  But the corms may also be planted in spring as you would gladiolus.  Unless you are naturalizing them in a meadow, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.

Your soil sample report will include soil amendment and fertilizer recommendations based upon the results of the test.  Follow them.  A fine all-around practice for bulbs is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden.  Repeat the application when growth appears, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

Crocosmia corms should be planted 3" deep.  Depth is measured to the bottom of the hole.  Recommended plant spacing is 6" to 10".

Crocosmia requires very little maintenance.  Plant them and forget about them.

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River Lily, Spider Lily, Swamp Lily, Poison Bulb

River Lily, Spider Lily, Swamp Lily, Poison Bulb are common names for species in the genus, Crinum (pronounced KRY-num).  There are about 180 of them found around the globe in tropical and subtropical habitats.  Yes, especially near swamps and rivers.

Crinums grow from bulbs which, like so many ornamental plants, are poisonous if ingested.  Leaves, usually strap-like, may be evergreen or deciduous, depending upon the species.  Clusters of handsome flowers, often fragrant, are produced on long, leafless stems throughout summer.  Leaves and flowers may also be toxic, so keep your lips off.  Consequently, crinums are deer resistant.

Crinum is a member of the Amaryllidaceae, which includes Amaryllis, Clivia, Hippeastrum, Leucojum and Lycoris.  The family resemblance is obvious.  In fact, you might say that Amaryllis and Crinum are "kissing cousins", having been bred to produce an intergeneric hybrid, x Amarcrinum.

Crinums may be cold hardy from USDA climate zone 7 through 11, depending upon the species.  Those who live in cooler regions can grow the smaller species successfully in containers with winter protection.

If planting in the garden, select a site in full sun to partial shade.  Obviously, crinums perform best in moist soils similar to their native habitats.  Generally they prefer a great deal of water.  Some species such as Crinum thaianum are aquatic and often used in aquariums.  Some require the soil to dry between watering to avoid rot.  But I know from personal experience that many are quite drought-tolerant.

Soil pH may be acidic to neutral.  Exact requirements differ by species.  The best way to determine if the pH is within that range and contains the proper nutrients is to have the soil tested. Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you.  You can collect the soil sample yourself.  For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis.  Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

Cultivate the soil to the depth of 12".  Add plenty of well-rotted compost.  Remove weeds.  Soil test results may recommend other soil amendments.  Bone meal is especially beneficial for bulbs.  If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the bulbs.

Planting depth and spacing vary by species and bulb size.

Crinums are stately additions to the garden, lending a bold tropical appearance to the landscape.  Sweet scented species are perfect for fragrance gardens.

Growing crinums in containers is not much different than in the garden.  Use the finest potting soil; cheap soil will give poor results.  The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth.  Select containers that will accommodate the bulbs and any other suitable companion plants.  All companion plants should have similar soil and moisture requirements.  Because container gardens can dry quickly, take steps to keep the pots properly watered.  Adding moisture retentive gel to the soil can be beneficial.  Larger containers are not as susceptible to drying.  Tipping over can also be a problem with small containers.

When bloom time is over, let the foliage remain to build reserves in the bulbs for the next growing season.  You may remove the foliage from deciduous species when it has turned yellow.  Continue to irrigate as needed.  Deciduous species will need considerably less water, if any, when foliage has fallen.

The following are a few of the most popular crinums:

Crinum 'Ellen Bosanquet' - Fuschia, trumpet-shaped flowers on 20" to 30" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 6 - 10.  pH 6.1 - 7.5.  Drought tolerant.

Crinum 'Ollene' - Fragrant, white, trumpet-shaped flowers on 18" to 24" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 6 - 10.  pH 6.1 - 7.5.  Consistently moist soil.

Crinum 'Walter Flory' - Fragrant, pink, trumpet-shaped flowers on 24" to 36" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 7b - 11.  pH 6.1 - 7.5.  Consistently moist soil.

Crinum 'Mrs. James Hendry' - Fragrant, pale pink, trumpet-shaped flowers on 36" to 48" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 7b - 11.  pH 6.1 - 7.5.  Consistently moist soil.

Crinum 'Stars and Stripes' - Red and white striped, star-shaped flowers on 18" to 24" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 7b - 10.  pH 6.1 - 7.5.  Consistently moist soil.

Crinum 'Hannibal's Dwarf' - Pink, star-shaped blooms on 12" to 18" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 7b - 10.  pH 6.1 - 7.5.  Consistently moist soil.

Crinum amabile - Pink, spider-shaped flowers on 36" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 8 - 11.  pH 6.6 - 7.5.  Very high moisture needs.  Suitable for bog and water gardens.

Crinum americanum - White, spider-shaped flowers on 24" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 7 - 10.  pH 5.6 - 7.5.  Very high moisture needs.  Suitable for bog and water gardens.

Crinum asiaticum - Fragrant, white, spider-shaped flowers on 48" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 9 - 11.  pH 6.1 - 7.8.  Consistently moist soil.

Crinum pedunculatum - Fragrant, white, spider-shaped flowers on 60" to 96" plants.  It's a whopper!  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 7b - 11.  pH 6.1 - 7.5.  Consistently moist soil.

Crinum x powellii - White or pink trumpet-shaped flowers on 24" plants.  Evergreen foliage.  Climate zones 8 - 11.  pH 6.1 - 7.5.  Average water needs.  Avoid over-watering.

X Amarcrinum memoria-corsii - Pink trumpet-shaped flowers on 24" to 36" plants.  Deciduous foliage.  Climate zones 7b - 10.  Average water needs.  Avoid over-watering.

This should provide you with a good over-view of Crinum.  You'll love the dramatic appearance they lend to your garden or sunroom.

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