Thyme It Is A Precious Thing

Come all ye maidens young and fair
And you that are blooming in your prime
Always beware and keep your garden fair
Let no man steal away your thyme.

For thyme it is a precious thing
And thyme brings all things to my mind.
Thyme with all its flavours, along with all its joys
Thyme, brings all things to my mind.

Once I had a bunch of thyme.
I thought it never would decay.
Then came a lusty sailor
Who chanced to pass my way
And stole my bunch of thyme away.

The sailor gave to me a rose.
A rose that never would decay.
He gave it to me to keep me reminded
Of when he stole my thyme away.

Those lines from an old Irish song, A Bunch Of Thyme, remind us that herbs mean more to us than we often realize.  In the song, the herb symbolizes virginity and chastity.  In the language of flowers, thyme symbolizes courage, vigor and strength.  All are important virtues to be guarded.  It seems that herbs strike some deep chords within us that resonate when we experience them, especially by taste or smell.  It's certainly so with thyme.  I have a small jar of it beside me now.

Thymus (pronounced TY-muss) is a genus of about 350 perennials native to warmer regions of Europe, Africa and Asia in the Mediterranean region.  It belongs to the Lamiaceae or mint family.

Thymus has been highly valued and used by western civilizations since the ancient Greeks as incense, fumigation, anti-depressant, pest repellant (though powerless against lusty sailors), vermifuge, antiseptic, antifungal agent, mouthwash, treatment for skin infections and bronchial disorders, and flavoring.  Hippocrates is quoted as instructing, "Let your food be your medicine, and your medicine be your food."  Thyme is a healthful flavoring, indeed.  It contains antioxidants, is rich in potassium, iron, calcium, manganese, magnesium, and selenium, B-complex vitamins, beta carotene, vitamin A, vitamin K, vitamin E, vitamin C and folic acid.

Thyme has small, soft, aromatic leaves.  Diminutive lavender flowers are produced throughout the growing season. 

Most species are low-growing and spreading, so they are wonderful as ground covers planted near stepping stones.  Thyme tolerates some foot traffic, so can used as a lawn substitute.  Herb gardens, fragrance gardens, hummingbird and butterfly gardens are not complete without thyme.  Bees produce excellent honey from thyme.  Thyme is drought-tolerant, deer and rabbit resistant.

Where ever you plant it, you'll find yourself looking for recipes that include thyme.  It can be used in recipes fresh or dry, and is marvelous as an ingredient in aromatic cooking oils.

Thyme is generally hardy in USDA climate zones 4 through 8 or 10, requires full sun and well-drained soils with pH ranging from 6.5 to 8.5.  Take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service Office for proper analysis.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil. 

Space the plants 8" to 24" apart, depending upon the species. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant thyme with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly with organic fertilizer and allow soil to dry between watering.  The greatest cause of failure is over-watering.  Thyme is definitely a low-maintenance plant.

Thyme, "with all its flavours, along with all its joys", pleases the senses while it improves health and enhances the landscape.  "Keep your garden fair and let no man steal away your thyme."

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Scabiosa: Better Than Its Name Sounds

Whether it is pronounced SCAB-ee-oh-sah or SKAY-bee-oh-sah, Scabiosa sounds dreadful and makes me imagine an itch coming on.

When I was a child, head lice and scabies struck fear in the heart of my mom.  Scabies is a skin condition caused by a tiny mite (Sarcoptes scabiei var. hominis) tunneling under the epidermis to lay its eggs.  Head lice and scabies were socially delicate matters in those days and very difficult to eradicate.  Among the many things I was warned to avoid at school and elsewhere, other boys' hats and people with rashes were near the top of the list.

I didn't obey all of her warnings.  I wore a yarmulke (kosher enough I thought) borrowed from Larry so I could join his middle-school entourage, and rassled with a scabious assailant when he wouldn't let go of my leg.  I ran over oyster shells, brushed by poison ivy, boated without a shirt, and explored island hammocks, so I've had my share of wounds, rashes, sunburns, itches and chiggers, but never head lice or scabies.

It's said that Scabiosa was named by Carl Linnaeus because of its traditional use as a treatment for scabies.  Perhaps Scabiosa and other herbs were steeped as tea in a tub of water for bathing, or the rough leaves might have been used to scratch the itch.  I don't know that it actually works for I've never had to use it.

The genus contains from 14 to 80 species (depends on who's counting what) native to Europe, parts of Asia and the Mediterranean region.  However, some have been introduced to North America.  Scabiosa is a member of the Dipsacaceae family.   A common name for it is Pincushion Flower, derived from the appearance of the seed head.

Very few scabiosas are used as ornamental plants.  Most are from the species, S. columbaria (pronounced kol-um-BAR-ee-ah).  Columbaria means "pigeon-like", perhaps because it can be found living in niches on the sides of cliffs in its native habitat.

A cultivar, S. columbaria 'Butterfly Blue' was named Perennial Plant Of The Year in 2000 by the Perennial Plant Association.  Since then its popularity has taken off.  Light blue flowers are produced in mid-summer on mounding plants up to 18" high.  Flowering may be extended through fall if the spent seed heads are removed.  In addition to blue, other cultivars exhibit flowers in pink and white.  Scabiosa is great for naturalizing, growing in perennial gardens, mixed gardens with bulbs and annuals, and in low borders.  Butterflies love it, and birds love the seeds.  It's easy to care for and drought-tolerant when established.

S. columbaria thrives in USDA climate zones 4 through 9 or 10.  Plant in full sun to partial shade.  Average well-drained garden soil with pH ranging from 6.6 to 7.8 is fine.

Before planting, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  They often provide collection bags.  With each soil sample, indicate the type of plant you intend to grow in it.  For the most basic recommendations, you may be charged a nominal fee.  For more information such as micro-nutrient and organic content you may be charged more.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  Adjust soil pH according to soil test results.

Your soil sample report will also include fertilizer recommendations.  Following instructions is always a good bet.  A fine all-around practice is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area.  Repeat the application later in the season if they appear to need a boost, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

Scabiosa is much better than its name sounds.  Plant it in your garden and you'll soon understand why it has become so popular.

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FAQ: Can I transplant junipers? When is the best time?

Q.  I have had junipers planted for a couple of years.....is it possible to move them to a different area of the yard?  Is there a certain time of year I should do this?

A. It is possible to move your junipers to a different area of the yard.  The chance of success varies according to the season of the year and the size of the plants.  It's best to try moving them during the cooler months.

When transplanting, you must keep as much soil intact around the roots as possible.  You may wish to move them yourself.  If not, perhaps a local nursery can assist you.

You did not indicate the species or size of the junipers.  If they are low-growing, you'll need some baling twine to tie the branches upward.  I'll assume that the trunk of the plant is 1" diameter measured about 6" above the soil line.

You will also need a flat-bladed spade with a sharp edge, a square sheet of burlap about 48" x 48", a dozen or more nails (10D, 3").

Your objective will be to form a root ball, move the entire shrub with root ball intact from the ground, place it on the burlap square, wrap the burlap around the root ball, secure it, and transport the shrub ball and burlap to its new location.

The root ball should be 12" in diameter for each 1" diameter of the plant trunk.  Begin by scraping weeds, grass and dirt from around the plant, exposing what will be the top of the root ball.

To form the ball, carve a shallow trench with the corner of your spade around the perimeter at the proper distance from the trunk.  With our example, the distance from the trunk should be about 12" radius.  Now, with the front of the spade facing you, begin digging the trench wider and deeper.  Shape the top of the soil into a ball by pulling soil with the spade away from the trunk and toward you.  Work your way around the plant.  Carve the trench more deeply as you go, remove excess soil.  Continue to work your way around the plant, repeating the steps until 1/2 of a ball has taken shape.  Visualize a small beach ball, if it helps.  When 1/2 of the ball has taken shape, begin carving gradually under the ball.

When you've formed about 3/4 of a ball, begin forcing the spade under the ball at an angle as you continue to work your way around the ball.  Be careful not to disturb the soil in the ball.  You don't want it falling apart.

When the ball is completely severed, you may remove the ball from the soil.  I recommend you slide the spade under the ball, leverage the ball up onto the spade and gently slide the spade with the plant out of the hole.

Slide the spade and root ball onto the burlap square.  Position the ball with the plant upright in the center of the square.  Remove the spade.  Pull the opposite corners of the burlap toward the trunk and tie them tightly.  Open gaps in the burlap may be pinned to close with the nails.  Special nails are made for the purpose, but 10D 3" nails should do.  Take care when pressing the nails through the fabric.  Wear gloves to protect your fingers.

Unless you are replanting immediately, cover the wrapped root ball with soil or mulch and keep it moist.

When replanting, the new planting hole should be the same depth as the original hole, but twice as wide.  When positioned in the hole, the top of the root ball should be at the same level as the surrounding soil.  DO NOT REMOVE THE BURLAP!  With some of the excess soil, form a ring about 5" deep around the hole and pack it tightly.  Place the end of a water hose inside the soil ring at the edge of the hole with the water running gently.  Keep the plant upright and back-fill the hole with original soil.  The water and soil will form a slurry of mud.  Then continue to back-fill the hole.  When the fill has reached the top of the root ball, stop back-filling and turn off the water.  Allow the soil to settle.  If necessary, add more soil around the root ball.  DO NOT COVER THE ROOT BALL WITH ADDITIONAL SOIL. 

If your plant is tall and located in a windy area, it may require bracing.  In most cases it will not.  At any rate, that is a subject for another day.

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How I Love My Santolina

Santolina, Santolina,
How I love my Santolina,
Some are green and some are gray,
Rub them each and every day
It's amazing -- you will praise them
As they chase the bugs away.

I'm not sure who composed that poem, but it appeared on an advertising leaflet from noted herbalist Sal Gilbertie.  The poem has it right.  Santolina is a very effective insect repellant.

Santolina (pronounced san-toh-LEE-nah) is a genus in the Asteraceae family which also includes ageratum, asters, daisies, goldenrod, sunflower and yarrow.  There may be up to two dozen species in the genus.

The name, Santolina, means "holy flax", but it seems no one knows why.  The plant was well-known in ancient times for its medicinal and insect-repellant properties.  Flax, of course, is a plant of a different genus used for fiber.  The Shroud of Turin has been called The Holy Flax of Passion, but I can find no indication why the genus bears the name.  I suppose the name is lost in etymological obscurity.

Native to the  Mediterranean region, santolina plants are generally evergreen in mild climates.  They prefer dry, poor, sandy soils, full sun, low humidity, and tolerate heat and drought very well.

Santolina species have been popular as low hedges for traditional knot gardens. They are also used in wreaths and potpourri. From the Middle Ages until the 18th century, santolina was strewn on the floor as an insect repellent, disinfectant, and to cover odors.  The flowers and seeds were used to treat intestinal parasites.  Pliny, the Roman naturalist, prescribed wine containing santolina for snake bites.

My favorite species is Santolina rosmarinifolia.  Mature height is 12" to 24".  It spreads in a mound shape to 24" to 48".  The plant is great for herb gardens, fragrance gardens in hot, dry climates.

S. rosmarinifolia is hardy in USDA climate zones 7 - 10.  It prefers well-drained soil.  Soil pH should range from 6.6 to 7.8.  Take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for proper analysis.  Follow the recommendations.

Cultivate at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.

Space plants 36" to 48" apart.  Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant santolina with other species having similar cultural requirements.  It has no insect problems and few disease problems.  The greatest cause of failure is over-watering.  Allow soil to dry between watering.

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Give Me Pearlwort

"Some people are flower lovers.

I'm a weed lover," wrote English poet Norman Nicholson.

Weeds don't need planting in well-drained soil;

They don't ask for fertilizer or bits of rag to scare away birds.

They come without invitation;

And they don't take the hint when you want them to go.

Weeds are nobody's guests;

More like squatters.

Coltsfoot laying claim to every new-dug clump of clay;

Pearlwort scraping up a living from a ha'porth of mortar;

Dandelions you daren't pick or you know what will happen;

Sour docks that make a first-rate poultice for nettle-stings;

And flat-foot plantain in the back street,

gathering more dust than the dustmen.

...You can keep your flowers.

Give me weeds!

Nicholson's argument is compelling.  Just yesterday I spied a tidy clump of pearlwort growing beside an asphalt walk as a fellow was shoving a lawn mower over the grass around it.  It occurred to me that he might be better off if he planted his entire yard in pearlwort.

Pearlwort is of the genus Sagina which includes about 90 species native to Europe and North America.  It's a member of the Caryophyllaceae family which includes dianthus, carnations and campions.

Though most of the pearlworts are attractive, Sagina subulata is the one most commonly grown as an ornamental.  The green form is also known as Irish Moss while the yellow cultivar, Sagina subulata 'Aurea', is often called Scotch Moss.  Neither are native only to Ireland or Scotland.

Pearlwort is most often grown as a perennial, evergreen ground cover.  Mature height is only about 1".  It spreads to 12".  Leaves are needle-shaped and about .4" long.  Tiny white flowers, produced spring through summer, are about .25" diameter and borne on stems less than 1.5" long.  Its habit is dense, so it chokes out weeds once established.  Pearlwort also tolerates moderate foot traffic.  You can see it makes a perfect lawn substitute, especially for small to medium lawns.  Plant pearlwort between stepping stones, beside walks, in rock gardens and at the fronts of borders.  Eco-conscious gardeners should consider it for their green roofs.  Container gardeners will find it useful as a planting beneath taller perennials and shrubs, maybe even under larger bonsai.

Sagina subulata is hardy in USDA climate zones 4 - 10.  It prefers well-drained soil, but is not particularly drought tolerant.  Soil pH should range from 5.6 to 7.5.  Plant in full sun to partial shade.  Take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for proper analysis.  Follow the recommendations.

You wouldn't think a plant that can grow "from a ha'porth of mortar" would need to have the soil prepared before planting, but I recommend it.  Cultivate at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil.  Fertilize sparingly.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 1 lb. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space plants 8" to 12" apart.  Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant your pearlwort with other species having similar cultural requirements.  It has few insect or disease problems.  Pearlwort is deer resistant.  The greatest cause of failure is over-watering.  Allow soil to dry slightly between watering.

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Behind A Garden Wall - The Epcot ® International Flower & Garden Festival

Anticipation grew as we approached the entrance to Epcot ®, the 300-acre theme park inspired by the creative genius of Walt Disney.  Epcot ® is an acronym for "Experimental Prototype Community of Tomorrow".  Disney actually envisioned a living community in a futuristic environment, but it was established as a tourist destination in 1982.  It was designed with two "worlds" of discovery: Future World and World Showcase. Future World features the land, seas, technology and imagination.  World Showcase is a kaleidoscope of nations gathered to celebrate their heritage and culture.

In 1993, Epcot ® established their annual International Flower and Garden Festival.  The Festival fit naturally into the Epcot theme for all of the Disney parks are famous for their imaginative and immaculate landscaping.  Rae Spencer-Jones included the Walt Disney World Resorts among her 1001 Gardens You Must See Before You Die.

The last time our family visited Disney, my wife and I were pushing strollers.  After 20 years, it was about time we visited again.

This visit was during the Flower and Garden Festival.  From the moment we entered, impressive gardens and topiaries excited us.  It was unmistakably Disney in style and scope.  Impressive topiaries were featured everywhere.  Colorful Disney characters entertained visitors in Future World while fanciful characters like the Bromeliad Dragon inspired gardeners in World Showcase.

Disney's Flower and Garden Festival was a treat for the mind and senses.  This year, nationally recognized garden personalities shared their insights and techniques on weekends during the Great American Gardeners workshop series.  They included Robert Bowden - expert on gardening in Florida, Jeff Gillman - author of The Truth About Garden Remedies, Lynn Coulter - author of Gardening with Heirloom Seeds, Maureen Gilmer - gardening author, designer and speaker, Douglas Tallamy - expert on native plant gardening, Debra Prinzing - garden designer, Susan Belsinger - culinary educator and food writer, Tom and Joani MacCubbin - creators of HisandHersGardening.com, Lee Reich - gardening author and consultant, Matt Henderson on A Fragrant Love Story, and Ahmed Hassan - host of DIY Network's Yard Crashers.  Disney's own gardening experts also shared their knowledge and provided visitors with tips they could use at home in their gardens.

One could satisfy the palate and nose in pleasant venues.  Garden Town Breakfasts prepared by Disney chefs were offered on selected days.  Menu offerings included fresh ingredients from the Epcot ® Land Pavilion.  Professional chefs and horticulturists shared their knowledge with guests.  Daily tours of the Fragrance Garden, sponsored by Guerlain, delighted visitors at the France Pavilion.

The Flower Power Concert Series was a great favorite.  During the Festival, music and recording artists from the 60s and 70s drew crowds to the concert shell.  Among them were Jose Feliciano, Paul Revere and The Raiders, David Cassidy, Starship, Tony Orlando, Herman's Hermits, The Nelsons, Atlanta Rhythm Section, Fran Cosmo - formerly with Boston, Davy Jones and Chubby Checker with The Wildcats!

The 2011 Epcot ® International Flower and Garden Festival is scheduled for March 2 to May 15.  Put it on your calendar.  You shouldn't miss it.  For the price of a ticket you can discover what grows behind Disney's garden wall.



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FAQ: Blue Daze and New Guinea Impatiens Together - What's Wrong?

SunPatiens - Photo Credit: National Garden Bureau

Q. I have some Blue Daze and New Guinea Impatiens growing together in a planter. The Blue Daze looks great, but the impatiens looks awful.  What's wrong?

A. You have species planted together that have different cultural requirements. Blue Daze (Evolvulus glomeratus) thrives in full sun to partial shade, soil pH between 5.6 and 6.5, and will tolerate a little dryness between watering. New Guinea Impatiens (Impatiens x hawkeri) requires partial shade to full shade, soil pH between 6.1 and 6.5, and consistently moist soil. You might grow them together if you move the container into partial shade avoiding afternoon sun, check pH to correct if necessary, and keep the soil slightly moist.

In the future, combine plants with the same cultural requirements. It'll save you time, money, and disappointment.

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FAQ: I love my flowers, but I would also like to grow some vegetables. I don't have room for both. Help!

There's no rule that says you have to keep vegetables separated from flowers. Perhaps you can grow both together. For example, bush beans will grow with petunias. Peppers, onions and roses are compatible. It's easy to make a little space produce a lot.

 Similarly, many veggies would grow well in containers on your patio. Some vegetables, such as the kale pictured above, are as beautiful as flowers.

Another way to enjoy vegetable gardening is to join a community garden project in your area. Find one through the American Community Garden Association.

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The Saving Graces Of Sage

"Sweet-smelling sage grows in abundance right at the front of my garden.  It has a forceful energy and produces a healing drink.  Helpful with many human ailments, it merits eternal youth."  -- Hortulus, Walafrid Strabo (c. 808 – August 18, 849)

"Amongst my herbs, sage holds the place of honour; of good scent it is and full of virtue for many ills," opined the monk.

His subject was Salvia officinalis (pronounced SAL-vee-ah oh-fiss-ih-NAH-liss), an herb known since ancient times for its healing properties.  Salvia translated means "saving."  Officinalis means "official", referring to its inclusion in the materia medica - that body of knowledge now known as pharmacology.  It is popularly called "common sage."  But there's nothing common about it.  Common sage is an extraordinary gift that heals the body and graces the table.

The plant is native to the Mediterranean region.  It's a member of the Lamiaceae family which includes mints, lavender and rosemary.

As I've mentioned in other articles, Hippocrates is quoted as instructing, "Let your food be your medicine, and your medicine be your food."  So the species was and continues to be used as a flavoring and medicinal herb.  Salvia is rich in vitamins A, B-complex, C and numerous minerals.  It improves kidney and liver function and stimulates the circulatory system.  Antioxidant agents help to prevent carcinogenic compounds from forming.  Chemicals such as thujone are reputed to improve mental concentration.

If you are tempted to treat yourself with sage, I highly recommend you ask your doctor first.  This is particularly true of women who are pregnant.

Salvia is not a small genus.  Arguably S. officinalis is best known.  But there are between 700 and 900 species in the genus, including annuals, perennials, shrubs and sub-shrubs, making Salvia the largest genus in the Lamiaceae family.

It's well beyond the scope of this article to treat them all, so I'll mention only a few.

• Salvia coccinea - Common name: Scarlet Sage, Hummingbird Sage, Texas Sage. A tender perennial.  Native to southern United States, Caribbean, Mexico, Central and South America.  Flower color: Red/variable.  Height: 18" to 24".  Hardiness:  USDA climate zones 7 - 10.  Exposure: Full sun to partial shade.  Use:  Ornamental.
• Salvia divinorum - Common name: Diviners' Sage, Maria Pastora.  A tender perennial.  Native to Sierra Mazateca in Oaxaca, Mexico.  Flower color: Light blue/white.  Fragrance: Don't know.  Height: 6' to 8'.  Hardiness: USDA climate zones 10 - 11.  Exposure: Shade.  Use:  Messes with the mind, calms anxiety.  Note:  Illegal in some states unless used for ornamental purposes.
• Salvia elegans - Common name: Pineapple Sage.  A tender perennial.  Native to mountains of Guatemala and Mexico.  Flower color: Red.  Fragrance: Pineapple.  Height: 36" to 48".  Hardiness:  USDA climate zones 8 - 11.  Exposure:  Full sun.  Use: Ornamental, tea, anti-depressant.
• Salvia farinacea - Common name: Mealy-cup Sage.  A tender perennial.  Native to Mexico.  Flower color: blue or white.  Height: 24".  Hardiness: USDA climate zones  8 - 11. Use:  Ornamental.
• Salvia guaranitica - Common name: Brazilian Sage, Hummingbird Sage.  A tender perennial.  Native to South America.  Flower color: Dark blue. Height: 24" to 48".  Hardiness: USDA climate zones 7 - 11.  Use:  Ornamental.
• Salvia hispanica - Common name: Chia.  Annual.  Native to Mexico and Guatemala.  Flower color: Light blue.  Height: 36".  Use: Beverage.
• Salvia nemorosa - Common name: Meadow Sage. Perennial.  Native to central Europe and western Asia.  Flower color: Blue, white, pink.  Height: to 36".  Hardiness: USDA climate zones 5 - 10.  Use: Ornamental.
• Salvia splendens - Common name: Scarlet Sage, Annual Salvia.  Annual.  Native to Brazil.  Flower color: Red, white, pink, salmon.  Height: 12".  Use: Ornamental.

As you have learned by now, there's a lot that you can do with salvia.  Don't forget, however, that the species have different properties.  You mustn't confuse them.

Herb gardens, fragrance gardens, hummingbird and butterfly gardens are not complete without salvia.  Salvia is also very effective in annual and mixed perennial borders for color and textural contrast.  If your growing space is limited, salvia performs well in containers.

Salvia guaranitica - Common name: Brazilian Sage, Hummingbird Sage

Salvia is generally heat-tolerant, often drought-tolerant, sometimes deer and rabbit resistant.  Particular tolerances, resistances, benefits and dangers depend upon the species.

Hardiness also varies by species.  Most require full sun and well-drained soils.  Take a soil sample, along with the name of the species you intend to grow, to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for proper analysis.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant spacing varies by species. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant your salvia with other species having similar cultural requirements.  The greatest cause of failure for salvia is over-watering.

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Rosemary - The Herb Of Remembrance

For the sake of some things
That be now no more
I will strew rushes
On my chamber-floor,
I will plant bergamot
At my kitchen-door.

For the sake of dim things
That were once so plain
I will set a barrel
Out to catch the rain,
I will hang an iron pot
On an iron crane.

Those nostalgic lines from Rosemary by Edna St. Vincent Millay may stir similar emotions, if not actual responses in you.  In the language of flowers, rosemary symbolizes remembrance.  Few would strew rushes on the floor in memory of "the good old days", though bergamot may be found by kitchen doors, and rain barrels are becoming more popular.  Iron pots, if you can still find them, are most often used as planters.

Rosemary is also growing in popularity.  Once found mostly in herb gardens, it is now common in ornamental gardens, as well.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus, pronounced rose-mah-REE-nus) is a small genus of perennials including only two species: R. eriocalyx and R. officinalis.  R. officinalis (pronounced oh-fiss-ih-NAH-liss) is the most popular.

Rosemary is native to the Mediterranean region from Spain to northwest Africa, often near the sea.  Rosmarinus, in fact, means "dew of the sea."  It's a member of the Lamiaceae family which includes mints, lavender, russian sage, and salvia.  Along with many other members of the family, rosemary contains essential oils and was discovered very early on to be beneficial to the body.  Officinalis means "official", referring to its inclusion in the materia medica - that body of knowledge now known as pharmacology.  

Historically, rosemary was used for medicine.  Hippocrates is quoted as instructing, "Let your food be your medicine, and your medicine be your food."  So rosemary was and continues to be used as a flavoring.  Its healthful effects are amazing.   Rosemary is rich in vitamin A, which has a positive effect on vision.  It improves kidney and liver function.  Rosemary is a rich source of iron and stimulates the circulatory system.  Antioxidants in rosemary help to prevent carcinogenic compounds from forming when meat is cooked at high temperatures.  Carnosic acid helps to fight off stroke and neurodegenerative conditions such as Alzheimer's Disease.  It's no wonder that rosemary is known as the herb of remembrance.

If you are tempted to research rosemary to treat yourself, I highly recommend you ask your doctor first.  This is particularly true of women who are pregnant.

Rosemary has evergreen, needle-like leaves that are resinous and fragrant.  Small, light blue flowers are edible and produced throughout the growing season.  The species grows to 48" or more and at least as wide.  Newer cultivars may be more compact.  One cultivar grows prostrate.

Herb gardens, fragrance gardens, hummingbird gardens, bee gardens and butterfly gardens are not complete without rosemary.  It's also very effective in mixed perennial borders for color and textural contrast.  Rosemary responds well to pruning, so it makes a fine hedge.  If your growing space is limited, rosemary performs well in containers.  I've even seen it trained as bonsai.

Where ever you plant it, you'll find yourself stepping out to snip a few sprigs of rosemary for use in the kitchen.  Rosemary can be used in recipes fresh or dry, and is wonderful as an ingredient in aromatic cooking oils.

Rosemary is drought-tolerant, deer and rabbit resistant.  The essential oils may repel some vermin.  Those who live near the sea will appreciate its salt-tolerance.

Hardy in USDA climate zones 7 through 10, rosemary requires full sun and well-drained soils with pH ranging from 6.6 to 8.5.  Take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for proper analysis.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 24" to 36" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant rosemary with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between watering.  The greatest cause of failure is over-watering.  Rosemary is certainly a low-maintenance plant.

Rosemary improves health and pleases the senses.  It enhances the beauty of your garden, cheers the nose and delights the palate.  Do remember to include rosemary in your garden.

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Doraji - The Bellflower

Doraji, doraji, doraji! 

I walk over the pass where doraji flowers bloom.

It is a path that is familiar to me.
Doraji, doraji, doraji! 

I look at these white flowers that remind me of my mother,

in the evening with the twinkling stars.
Doraji, doraji, doraji! 

When I wear these white flowers on my hair, 

it reminds me of my young days and my dreams.

---Korean Folk Song, Doraji Bellflower Song.

Plants have a way of taking root in the human consciousness to the point that they become personal, familial, ethnic or national symbols.  Can one mention shamrock, thistle, edelweiss, iris, tulip or rose without a country coming to mind?  Why?  Familiar plants and terrains, familiar beauties and histories, personal and collective memories, shared pathos of grief, love, longing and home.

Doraji (bellflower) possesses particular poignancy for Koreans who are separated from their loved ones and freedom by totalitarianism.  (Photo attributed to www.kremlin.ru.)

Doraji is planted deeply in the hearts of Koreans.  Its native range also includes Japan and China, so Doraji is a part of those cultures, as well.



It is known to us by its English names, Bellflower or Balloon flower, or by its botanical name, Platycodon grandiflorus (pronounced plat-ee-KO-don gran-di-FLOR-us) which means "broad bell, large flowers."  In the language of flowers, bellflower means "thinking of you" with grief implied.

Hungry, needy and wise people have always discovered good uses for the plants around them.  Though they may have never heard of Hippocrates, his wisdom seems to be universal.  "Let food be your medicine."  Chinese emphasized the medicinal properties of doraji roots while Koreans chose to eat them for pleasure -- perhaps to the same end.  Anyway, it's no surprise that Koreans shared a favorite doraji (bellflower) root-gathering song.

Doraji! Doraji! White Doraji!
In the deep, deep forest,
Even after digging only one or two roots,
My basket is overflowing.

Doraji (Platycodon grandiflorus) is a herbaceous (non-woody) perennial that may reach 24" height or more when in bloom with a similar spread.  Newer cultivars may be more compact.  Leaves are dark green, egg-shaped and and pointed.  Blue, pink or white star-shaped flowers, like a pentagram, appear from mid-summer to early fall.

To avoid confusion, you must know that there is another plant that goes by the name Korean bellflower.  Its botanical name is Campanula takesimana.  Though it is a member of the same family, Campanulaceae, Korean bellflower must not be confused with our subject, Platycodon grandiflorus.

In its native habitat, doraji may be found in abundance.  Few gardeners would devote a garden to it, but that would be their mistake.  A mass planting can be spectacular in naturalized meadows.  It's also very effective in mixed perennial borders.  Doraji is also effective in cutting gardens, and herb gardens.  It's perfect for gardens with oriental themes.  The dried, paper-thin blooms are wonderful in dried flower arrangements.

Doraji is deer resistant.

Doraji (bellflower) is generally hardy in USDA climate zones 3 through 9, preferring full sun or partial shade.  Well-drained soil is essential.  Preferred soil pH should range from 6.1 to 7.8.  Take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service Office for proper analysis.  You may pay a small fee.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 12" to 18" apart for the species, or 10" to 12" apart for compact cultivars. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant doraji with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between watering.  The greatest cause of failure is over-watering.

For cutting and drying, clip doraji with small hand clippers just after flower buds open when dew has dried.  Hang stems upside down to dry in a warm, dry, shady area.  The cuttings should dry within a week.

You might think that a plant as exotic as this would be difficult to grow.  It is not.  Doraji (bellflower) is a plant for beginners.  It may even become your favorite.  I wouldn't be surprised if you began singing your own song about doraji.

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Russian Sage - Neither Russian Nor Sage

Russian Sage is not native to Russia.  The genus, Perovskia, is native to the mountains of central Asia, Afghanistan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Pakistan to China.  Perovskia was discovered in 1840, and probably named in honor of Russian governor and general, Vasily Alekseevich Perovski.

In 1839, when the British were occupied with the First Anglo-Afghan War, Russia seized the opportunity to extend its borders into central Asia.  Led by Perovski, Russian forces invaded The Khanate of Khiva with over 5000 troops and 10,000 camels under the pretense of apprehending slave traders.  Within three months, extreme winter weather forced a retreat at the cost of 1000 casualties without a single battle.

About 12 years later, Perovski returned to The Khanates of Khiva and Kokan with more experience, better planning and weather.  Perhaps the high-point of his military success was the taking of Fortress Ak-Mechet, held by Kokanians "on Russian territory".

Perovski diplomatically informed the Kokands, "Ak-Mechet is already taken, although you are inside it, and you cannot fail to perceive that without losing any of my men, I am in a position to destroy every one of you.  The Russians have come hither not for a day, nor yet for a year, but for ever.  They will not retire.  If you wish to live, ask for mercy; should you prefer to die in Ak-Mechet, you can do so; I am not pressed for time, and do not intend to hurry you.  I here repeat that I do not come to offer you combat, but to thrash you until you open your gates."

His diplomacy being successful, Perovski gained a treaty in 1854 that benefited Russia.  Perovski was made a count.  Fortress Ak-Mechet was renamed Fort Perovski.  By 1924, both Kokan and Khiva (together becoming parts of Kazakhstan) were absorbed into the Soviet Union.  In 1991, the Soviet Union collapsed.  Kazakhstan is now an independent Turkic state.  Some Russians remain.

The cavalry flew by and vanished,
The storm thundered and hushed.
Lawlessness bore down, bore down -
Silence and light all around.
- Mikhail Alekseevich Kuzmin

Flowers also remain, brushed by the wind.

Russian Sage is not a true sage, though it is related as a member of the Lamiaceae family which includes lavender, mint, salvia and such.  Like many of its relatives, its leaves and stems contain aromatic essential oils.  Though known for over a century, it was not used much in ornamental gardens until fairly recently.  The favorite species has been P. atriplicifolia (pronounced at-ry-pliss-ih-FOH-lee-uh).  Being named the Perennial Plant Of The Year in 1995 by the Perennial Plant Association  helped a lot.

From a distance, Russian Sage resembles lavender with its long, wispy stems and small, light blue flowers held above silvery foliage.  Crush a few leaves between your fingers, bring to your nose.  Inhale.  The family connection is obvious.  (This is where I wish technology enabled a "scratch and sniff" link.)

Perovskia atriplicifolia grows to 36" or more and at least as wide.  Newer cultivars may be more compact.

Few gardeners would devote a garden to Russian Sage as they might to roses, but a mass planting is spectacular.  It's also very effective in mixed perennial borders for color and textural contrast.  Russian Sage is also effective in fragrance gardens, cutting gardens, naturalized meadows, butterfly and herb gardens.  It's perfect for dried flower arrangements.  Russian Sage can be grown in short hedges, open fields, borders and knot-gardens.

Do you live in an area with a dry climate?  Is your water use restricted?  When well-established, Russian Sage is drought-tolerant.  Being native to harsh environments, it tolerates inner-city pollution.  Do deer and rabbits come to your garden to dine?  Russian Sage is deer and rabbit resistant.  The essential oils may even repel some insects and vermin.

Flowers of Russian Sage, which appear from late spring to early fall, are edible.  They have a hint of sweetness.  You can sprinkle them on salads, cookies and baked goods.

Historically, Russian Sage has been used medicinally to reduce fever, but I highly recommend you ask your doctor before you try to treat yourself or others.

Russian Sage is generally hardy in USDA climate zones 5 through 9, preferring full sun and well-drained soils with pH ranging from 5.1 to 6.5.  Take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service Office for proper analysis.  You may pay a small fee.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 24" to 36" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant Russian Sage with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between watering.  The greatest cause of failure is over-watering.

For cutting and drying, clip Russian Sage with small hand clippers just before flower buds open when dew has dried.  Hang stems upside down to dry in a warm, dry, shady area.  The cuttings should dry within a week.

I love plants that are beautiful, fragrant, useful, easy to grow and with stories behind them.  Russian Sage is such a plant.

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Pick Your Own Fruit And Vegetables

Sure, you can find fresh produce at the grocery store.  The selection seems unlimited.  Trucks bring it every day from near and far; mostly far.

But wait...  Summer is here!  You can pick your own produce and enjoy the benefits that grocery shoppers miss.

• Save money.  The labor you invest in harvesting your own can result in lower prices.
• Know your farmer.  Most pick-your-own farms are family-owned and operated, so family members are usually on site.  Building friendships is easy to do.
• Know the farm.  Good farming practices result in quality produce.  You can make a reasonable assessment just by visiting, and it's easy to learn more by asking the farmer himself.
• Enjoy the local flavor.  Food just seems to taste better when it's eaten close to where it was grown.  Perhaps it's the soil, or the environment.  Many argue that locally-grown food is more nutritious, too.  In fact, some very flavorful fruit and vegetable varieties don't ship well, so you'll never have the opportunity to enjoy them if you don't buy them at the farm.
• Teach your children.  Many people have no idea where their food comes from, how it's grown or harvested.  Visiting a farm with your family can be a valuable life lesson for the children.
• Have some fun.  Many pick-your-own farms offer hay-rides, petting zoos, seasonal festivals and lots of other attractions.
• Support the local economy.  What goes around comes around, and the cycle is a bit shorter when you buy from locally owned farmers and markets.

Our blueberry crop here in Statesboro, GA is ready for picking.  We're open 8 am to 6pm Monday through Friday, 8 am to 4pm on Saturday.  We're closed on Sundays.  Call me me at 912-601-2338 or email me for availability and directions.

If you want to find a pick-your-own farm in your area, check out PickYourOwn.org.  The nice people at that site also provide lots of helpful information, including picking tips, recipes, and how to can and freeze your produce.

Find a farm today, and start picking!

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Matted Lignum: A Treat For Big Birds, Children And You

Once there was a very big bird (yellow, I think, or perhaps light brown) that loved sweet treats.  It was huge, about 12' high and weighed maybe 500 lbs.   This bird couldn't fly because it had no wings, but that didn't matter much for it had few enemies.  It lived in a small, sheltered neighborhood.

But bullies moved in and grew in number.  Before long, the big bird existed no more.  They ate it.  Strangely, few remember.  Now they claim the neighborhood as though it had always been theirs, and their children eat the treats.

The bird in mind is not the star of television and movies, but a very large species called the Moa, native to New Zealand.  Perhaps its closest living relative is the emu, or possibly the South American tinamous.  But, to get an image in your mind, think of the ostrich, only much bigger and with a formidable hooked beak.  It browsed on a wide variety of plants including the sweet fruit of Muehlenbeckia axillaris (pronounced mew-len-BEK-ee-ah ax-ILL-ar-iss), also known as Matted Lignum, Creeping Wire Vine, Maidenhair Vine, and Mattress Vine.

Until humans arrived on the scene, the only known enemy of the moa was an enormous raptor called Haast's Eagle.  Haast's eagles weighed up to 33 pounds and attacked moas from above at speeds of over 50 miles per hour.

Then Maori arrived around 1300AD.  They are now considered to be the indigenous people of New Zealand.  As you know, indigenous people are often portrayed as living in harmony with nature.  In fact, the Maori hunted the moa to extinction, perhaps within a hundred years after their arrival.  As the moa disappeared, so did the Haast's eagle.

The pearly, succulent, star-shaped fruit of Matted Lignum is edible and rather sweet.  To be precise, it is not the fruit that is edible; it resembles a black seed.  But the succulent sepals and petals surrounding the fruit are enjoyed, especially by Maori children.  (If your child is not Maori, I suggest you check with your physician before you allow him to eat the fruit.)

Muehlenbeckia, native to New Zealand, Australia and Papua New Guinea, was named in honor of Henri Gustave Muehlenbeck, a 19th century French physician who investigated the flora of Alsace.  In those days, most physicians were botanists, too.  But he got nowhere near New Zealand, as far as I can tell.  "Axillaris" means "in the leaf axils", referring to the position of the flowers and fruit.

Gardeners know Matted Lignum as an effective ground cover.  When prostrate, the plant forms a dense mat, up to 4", of tough, woody vines.  "Lignum" refers to the tough vines, as does the name, Creeping Wire Vine.  The name, Mattress Vine, refers to the density of the mat.  It tolerates foot traffic quite well.  It is also excellent for controlling erosion in your landscape.

I have no idea why it's called Maidenhair Vine, as it doesn't resemble the hair of any maidens I've known.  The small, evergreen leaves are bronze in color from fall to spring.  In addition to its use as a ground cover, it's excellent for container gardens and hanging baskets, topiarys, and cascading over walls.

Matted Lignum is hardy in USDA climate zones 6 through 9.  Soil should be well-drained, with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.  Mature plants are drought tolerant.  It is deer-resistant.

To determine whether soil amendments are necessary, take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office.  They will provide you with a helpful report for a small fee.

Prepare the planting bed for Matted Lignum by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep. Compost may be incorporated into the soil.  Fertilizer be used.  If you choose to do so, incorporate 5-10-15 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant Matted Lignum 24" to 30" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

The only negative is that it can cover ground, as a good ground cover should, therefore it should be trimmed occasionally to keep it confined.

Matted Lignum is an interesting solution plant.  It's a fine ground cover, controls erosion beautifully and tolerates foot traffic.  It makes lovely topiarys, performs well in container gardens and hanging baskets, and cascades nicely over stone walls.  Not only that, you'll have a fascinating story to tell your guests as you stroll through your garden.  What a treat that will be!

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Refreshing Oswego Tea

The New World was a treasure-trove of plants to early European explorers. Many of their uses came to light as the colonizing foreigners observed the native people. Just so did the value of Oswego Tea come to be known.

Oswego Tea, also known as Bee Balm, Horsemint and Bergamot is of the genus Monarda, containing about 16 indigenous species. Monarda is named for Nicolas Monardes, 16th century Spanish physician and botanist. In those days, most physicians were botanists. Monardes wrote his famous Historia medicinal de las cosas que se traen de nuestras Indias Occidentales. Of course, he referred to "our West Indian" possessions because most of the territory was under the Spanish flag. In 1577, John Frampton (Englishman) translated Monardes book and titled it, Ioyfull newes out of the newe founde worlde, typically disregarding Spanish claims.

Monarda belongs to the Mint family, Lamiaceae. It's easy to recognize Monarda's relationship to mints. Stems are squared. Leaves are slender, tapered and toothed. The flowers are quite large compared to mints, usually red to pink in color, and are produced repeatedly throughout the growing season. The fragrance is very pleasing. I enjoy crushing the leaves between my fingers for a refreshing sniff.

One of the most useful species, and the one I'll treat for the rest of this article, is M. didyma (pronounced DID-ee-muh). It is sometimes called Scarlet Beebalm. You can find it growing wild, especially in the Appalacians where rich, moist, well-drained soils are very much to its liking.

Scarlet Beebalm is known for its antiseptic properties. Of course, the Indians knew it first. They used it as a poultice, and as a refreshing tea for fighting tooth decay, gum disease, and bad breath. An active ingredient, Thymol, is still used in mouthwashes.

It attracts bees, so is a useful honey plant. Butterflies love it, too.

But most of us love Scarlet Beebalm because it is so beautiful. Monarda grows up to 48", sometimes taller, so the lovely flowers may tower above other perennials. It spreads by runners to about 12" across, so if your garden site is to its liking, you may have a colony in a couple of growing seasons.

Monarda is suitable in perennial gardens and borders, herb gardens, butterfly and bee gardens, and wildflower gardens. New cultivars and hybrids are available in differing heights and in colors ranging from white, to pink, purplish and scarlet.

Monarda thrives in full sun in USDA climate zones 3 or 4 to 9 in fertile, well-drained, evenly moist soils with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8. It can be grown in partial shade, but tends to be leggy and flower less.

Begin by taking a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing. The results will specify any soil amendments needed.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep. Add enough soil to raise the bed at least 4" above the surrounding ground level. This will help to promote good drainage. Compost may be incorporated into the soil. Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 12" to 24" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Water the plants in the pots, then drain. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Monarda has no serious pests or diseases, and deer and rabbits don't like it. Powdery mildew may appear, but is usually not serious enough to ruin your plants. The greatest cause of failure is planting it in an environment that is not to its liking.

When your Beebalm is in bloom, pick a few leaves for tea, then sit in the shade, and enjoy its beauty. It's as refreshing to the palate as it is to the eye.

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Lawn Grass Substitutes

Mondo - Ophiopogon - lawn

For some homeowners, lawn work is therapeutic and the end result is a matter of pride.  Others consider it to be necessary, but time-consuming and an unwelcome expense.  Some folks think lawns are ecologically unfriendly, requiring chemical applications and too much water.  The fact is that lawns can be all of that, more or less.  It depends on your perspective.  But this guide is not intended to argue the virtues and vices of grass.  The purpose is to stimulate your thinking about options and to inform you of various plant alternatives to the typical lawn.

What practical purposes do lawns serve?

• Lawns prevent wind and water erosion.
• Lawns moderate soil and air temperatures.
• Lawns suppress growth of undesirable plants.
• Lawns create buffers.
• Lawns allow visibility.
• Lawns provide resilient living surfaces for outdoor activities.

Grass does all of these so well.

When thinking about alternatives, you should consider which of these purposes you need to satisfy, then determine whether anything else will work so well for you as grass.

As with any landscape plan, you'll need to assess your circumstances and choose your plants accordingly.  Consider your maximum and minimum seasonal temperatures, exposure to sun or shade, available water, slope, soil characteristics.

Almost any low-growing plant will help to prevent erosion, moderate temperatures, suppress weeds, create buffers and allow for visibility.  But fewer accommodate foot traffic in outdoor living spaces as well as grass.  Even grass has its limits.

The following plants tolerate some foot traffic, especially if planted around flag stones or pavers, and are easy to step over.  Some are drought-tolerant.  The list is not exhaustive.  The descriptions are very brief.

Acaena inermis.  Also known as New Zealand Bur.  Best varieties are 'Purpurea' and 'Blue Haze'.  Evergreen foliage of 'Purpurea' turns red in full sun.  Foliage of 'Blue Haze is blue-gray color.  Creamy white flowers in early summer.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 6-9.  Grows to 6" in height.  Drought tolerant.  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Acinos alpinus.  Also known as Alpine Calamint or Alpine Catmint.  Pinkish purple flower from spring to fall.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 5-10.  Height approx. 6".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Ajuga reptans.  Also known as Carpet Bugleweed.  Bronze to variegated foliage.  Blue flowers on short spikes in spring.  Full sun to full shade.  USDA climate zones 3-9.  Well-drained soil.  Drought-tolerant.  Best varieties include 'Burgundy Glow' (3" to 4"), 'Chocolate Chip' (2" to 4"), 'Gaiety'/'Bronze Improved' (3" to 4").  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Arenaria balearica.  Also known as Mossy Sandwort.  Evergreen foliage.  White blooms in spring.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-11.  Grows to under 6" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Chrysogonum virginianum 'Pierre'.  Also known as Green and Gold.  Yellow flowers over green foliage.  Full sun to partial shade.  USDA climate zones 5-9.  Moist soil.  Grows 4" to 6" in height.  Low tolerance for foot traffic.


Cymbalaria aequitriloba.  Also known as Kenilworth Ivy.  Evergreen foliage.  White to purple flowers in spring to summer.  Light shade to full shade in USDA climate zones 7-10.  Drought tolerant.  Grows to 6".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Euonymus fortunei 'Kewensis'.  Glossy green foliage only 1/4" to 5/8".  Full sun to full shade.  Drought-tolerant.  USDA climte zones 4-9.  Grows to 3".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Ficus pumila.  Also known as Creeping Fig.  Green or variegated foliage.  Can climb.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 8b-10.  Grows from 1/2" to 1 1/2" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Glechoma hederacea 'Variegata'.  Also known as Variegated Ground Ivy or Variegated Creeping Charlie.  Blue flowers spring to summer.  Full sun to full shade in USDA climate zones 3-9.  Grows to under 3".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Herniaria glabra.  Also known as Green Carpet.  'Sea Foam' is a good variety.  Evergreen green or variegated leaves turn red in winter.  White flower.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 6-9 (some gardeners report success in zones 5 - 11).  Grows to 3".  High tolerance for foot traffic.

Houstonia caerulea.  Also known as Bluets.  Light blue flowers from spring to fall.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 3-8.  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Hydrocotyle sibthorpioides.  Also known as Pennywort.  Small white flowers in summer.  Requires moist soil.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 8-10.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Laurentia (Isotoma) fluviatilis.  Also known as Blue Star Creeper.  Blue flowers in spring.  Evergreen to semi-evergreen foliage.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 5b to 10.  Grows to 3".  High tolerance for foot traffic.

Leptinella gruveri.  Also known as Brass Buttons.  The hybrid 'Platt's Black' is very beautiful.  Small yellow flowers in summer.  Forms dense evergreen carpet.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 8-10.  High tolerance for foot traffic.

Lotus corniculatus.  Also known as Bird Foot Trefoil.  Dense dark green mat.  Orange buds and yellow flowers from spring to fall.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 3-9.  Grows to 4".  High tolerance for foot traffic.

Lysimachia nummularia 'Aurea'.  Also known as Golden Creeping Jenny.  Low, mat-forming plant with gold leaves and yellow flowers.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 3-10.  Grows to 3".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Mazus reptans.  Blue or white flowers in spring.  Fast-spreading.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 2" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Muehlenbeckia axillaris.  Also known as Creeping Wire Vine or Maidenhair Vine.  Low, mat-forming plant.  Small white flowers in summer.  Full sun to full shade in USDA climate zones 5-10.  Drought-tolerant.  Grows to 4".  High tolerance for foot traffic.

Ophiopogon japonicus 'Nana'.  Also known as Dwarf Mondo Grass.  Evergreen, dark leaf blades 1/8" wide.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun to full shade in USDA climate zones 6-10.  Grows to 3".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Phlox subulata.  Also known as Thrift or Creeping Phlox.  Pink, red, white, lavender flowers in early spring.  Tolerates drought and wide range of soil conditions.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 3-9.  Grows 4" to 6" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Potentilla neumanniana 'Nana'.  Also known as Creeping Cinquefoil.  Dark green leaves.  Evergreen.  Yellow flowers in late spring.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 5-10.  Grows to 3".   High tolerance for foot traffic.

Pratia angulata.  Also known as Star Creeper.  Dark green leaves.  White to blue flowers in spring.  Red fruit in fall.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 6-10.  Grows to 2".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Pratia pendunculata.  Also known as Little Star Creeper.  Syn. Isotoma, Laurentia.  'County Park' and 'Tom Stone' are desirable varieties.  Blue to purple star-shaped flowers from spring to fall.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 7-10.  Grows to under 6".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Rubus calycinoides.  Also known as Creeping Raspberry.  Dark green, puckered foliage.  Evergreen.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 6-10.  Grows to 2".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Sagina subulata.  Also known as Scotch Moss.  Green or gold foliage with small white star-shaped flowers.  Forms low, dense mat.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 3".  High tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum album.  Also known as Baby Tears.  Teardrop-shaped green foliage turns red in fall.  White flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 4".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum acre.  Also known as Gold Moss or Gold Stonecrop.  Soft yellow-green foliage turns red in winter.  Yellow flowers.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 4".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum hispanicum var. minus.  Also known as Blue Moss, Blue Stonecrop or Tiny Buttons.  Soft blue-gray groundcover produces small pink flowers in summer. Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 2-9.  Grows to 4".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum lydium.  Also known as Mossy Stonecrop.  Succulent green leaves turn burgundy-red when stressed by drought or cold.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 5-9.  Grows to 4".  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum makinoi 'Ogon'.  Small evergreen foliage gold in color with pink shades.  Yellow-green flowers in spring.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 7-9.  Grows to 2" in height.  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum requieneii.  Also known as Miniature Stonecrop.  Very small green leaves and yellow star-shaped flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to less than 2".  Very durable.  High tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum spurium 'Dragon's Blood'.  Red and green variegated leaves in whorled clusters.  Red flowers in late summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 3-9. Grows to 3".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum spurium 'Fuldaglut'.  Semi-evergreen, bronze fleshy leaves whorled around the stem.  Turns burgundy in fall.  Pink-red flowers in summer.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 3-9.  Grows to 3" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum spurium 'John Creech'.  Semi-evergreen, fleshy foliage.  Pink flowers in early spring.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 3-9.  Grows to 2" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum spurium Tricolor'.  Variegated green, red and white foliage.  Evergreen.  Pink flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 3-9.  Grows to 4" in height.  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Sedum tetractinum.  Also known as Chinese Sedum.  Flat evergreen foliage, light green in color turns reddish in fall.  Yellow flowers in summer.  Drought tolerant.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 3" in height.  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus doerfleri 'Doone Valley'.  Also known as Wild Thyme or Doone Valley Thyme.  Lemon-scented golden variegated foliage is evergreen.  Produces lilac flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 4".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus praecox 'Elfin'.  Also known as Miniature Thyme.  Gray-green foliage forms tight mat.  Light pink flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 5-10.  Grows to under 2".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus praecox 'Pink Chintz'.  Gray-green fragrant foliage is evergreen.  Light pink flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows 1" to 3" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus praecox ' Coccineus'.  Also known as Red Creeping Thyme.  Scented foliage turns bronze in winter.  Red flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 4" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus praecox 'Albiflorus'.  Also known as Wild Thyme or White Creeping Thyme.  Scented evergreen foliage.  White flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 4" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus praecox 'Pseudolanuginosus'.  Also known as Wooly Thyme.  Scented gray foliage is evergreen.  Pink flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 3" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus citriodorus.  Also known as Creeping Lemon Thyme.  Green, lemon-scented foliage is evergreen.  Lilac flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 3" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus citriodorus 'Archer's Gold'.  Also known as 'Archer's Gold' Lemon Thyme or Creeping Lemon Thyme.  Bright gold, lemon-scented foliage is evergreen.  Lilac flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 3" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Thymus x 'Spicy Orange'.  Green, needle-like foliage is fragrant and evergreen.  Pink flowers in summer.  Drought-tolerant.  Full sun in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 2" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Trifolium repens 'Atropurpureum'.  Red-bronze evergreen foliage with green margin.  White flowers in spring and summer.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Excellent for erosion control.  Grows to under 6" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Veronica liwanensis.  Also known as Turkish Speedwell.  Evergreen, deep green color.  Blue flowers in summer.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-8.  Grows to under 4" in height.  Low tolerance for foot traffic.

Veronica penduncularis 'Georgia Blue'.  Evergreen foliage turns bronze in fall.  Blue flowers in spring.  Drought tolerant.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows 3" to 6".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Veronica repens 'Sunshine.'  Also known as 'Sunshine' Creeping Speedwell.  Yellow green foliage.  Bluish-white flowers in spring to summer.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 6-9.  Drought-tolerant.  Grows to 1" in height.  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Veronica surculosa 'Waterperry'.  Also known as 'Waterperry Blue'.  Lustrous semi-evergreen foliage turns bronze in winter.  Blue flowers in spring.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-8.  Grows to under 4".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Veronica x 'New Century'.  Evergreen, deep green color.  Foliage turns bronze in winter.  Blue flowers in summer.  Full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4-9.  Grows to 4".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

Viola labradorica.  Also known as Labrador Violet.  Foliage changes color throughout seasons, green-blue-black.  Small lilac flowers from spring to fall.  Partial shade in USDA climate zones 3-8.  Grows to under 4".  Medium tolerance for foot traffic.

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The Food Of Lotus-Eaters

The name, Lotus, conjures visions of those elegant aquatic plants (Nelumbo spp.) native to Asia and Africa that rise serenely above the muddy water.  But they are not the lotus I'm describing here.

Some readers may think of the mythical lotus-eaters described by Odysseus.  Their fruity snacks were said to have the power to remove memory and ambition.  They were not eating Nelumbo, but probably the fruit of a Zizyphus or Diospyros.  But even these are not properly "lotus."

How is it that different plants can be known by the same name?  Confusion, perhaps ignorance or loss of memory (someone already used that name?).  Want of desire to think of something original.  It has been suggested that ancient Greek naturalists applied the name, lotus, to several unrelated plants.

The lotus I'm writing about is actually of the genus, Lotus.  It belongs to the Fabacaea or Leguminacaea family, which includes beans, peas, kudzu, lupines and redbud trees.

Lotus contains many species with world-wide distribution.  Of course, some of them were introduced to new lands for various reasons.  Such is the case with Lotus corniculatus (pronounced LO-tus kor-nik-you-LAY-tus), commonly called Birdsfoot Trefoil, Deervetch and lots of other things.

Birdsfoot Trefoil, native to Europe, Asia and north Africa, was distributed elsewhere for cattle fodder.  Cattle, you see, are the real lotus eaters.  The plant is also useful for erosion control and as an ornamental ground cover.  It typically grows up to 6" in height, spreads rapidly and forms a dense carpet.  The deciduous foliage resembles clover.  Attractive yellow, pea-like flowers are produced in late spring to early summer.  Because it tolerates foot traffic, it is fine as a lawn substitute in suitable areas. It's reasonably drought-tolerant.

Though cattle can eat it, humans must not for it contains toxic cyanogenic glycosides.  Perhaps for that reason, in the language of flowers, Birdsfoot Trefoil is a symbol of revenge.  Nevertheless, in the hands of physicians it has been used medicinally to treat depression, nervousness and insomnia.

Birdsfoot Trefoil thrives in full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 4 to 9.  Soil should be well-drained with pH ranging from 5.6 to 8.5.  With such obvious adaptability, it should do well in most parts of the country.

Before you plant, take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing.  The results will specify any soil amendments needed.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants. 

Space the plants 12" to 15" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in the pots, then drain.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant Birdsfoot Trefoil with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between watering.

You'll find that it's a low-maintenance plant, having no serious pests or diseases.  Lotus does attract butterflies.

Perhaps you've seen Lotus - Birdsfoot Trefoil - before, but didn't know what it was.  Next time you're driving through the countryside, keep an eye out for it.  You may see cattle munching it serenely with no sign of ambition to do much else.  If you decide to use it as a ground cover, you may find yourself sitting in the garden, content to enjoy its beauty.

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