Bedazzling Begonias

For bedazzling, eye-popping hues in container gardens and color beds, go with tuberous begonias.  Tuberous begonias are perennials that grow from swollen stems.  Roots emerge from the bottom; shoots and leaves appear along the top and sides.  Their parentage can be traced to species found in South America and hybridized during the late 19th century.

The botanical name is Begonia x tuberhybrida.  The genus is named for Michel Begon (1638-1710), naturalist and governor of New France (French Canada).  Tuberhybrida means "hybrid tuber."  No surprise there, eh?

Tuberous begonias produce beautiful, succulent foliage, typical of the genus.  They are worth growing for the foliage alone.  Impressive flowers appear from mid-summer until cold weather stops them.  Colors are available throughout almost the entire color spectrum.  Common flower forms include double or camellia-types, fimbriata or carnation-types, and pendulous.  Their appearance is very lush.  Plant height is around 12".  They lend themselves to all kinds of uses from container gardening in small spaces to mass plantings in flower beds.  Use them in tropical gardens or wherever you want a tropical appearance. They're wonderful for hanging baskets, especially the pendulous forms.

Tuberous begonias can be grown almost anywhere in the United States, but they are reliably hardy only in USDA climate zones 10 and 11.  Some gardeners lift and store over winter in cooler zones, but they are rather inexpensive so are often treated as annuals.

Begonias prefer partial to full shade.  Rich soil, moist but well-drained, is best with mildly acidic pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.5.  The best way to determine if the pH is within range and contains the proper nutrients is to have the soil tested.  Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you.  You can collect the soil sample yourself.  For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis.  Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

If you use potting soil, choose the finest grade available.  Cheap soil will give poor results.  The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth.  Select containers that will allow you to include companion plants, if desired.  Larger containers will require less frequent watering.  The addition of water retentive gel can be beneficial.
 
Cultivate the soil, if necessary, and remove weeds.  If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the tubers.  Time-release fertilizers for annual plants are excellent.

Plant your begonias in spring after the danger of frost has passed.  Planting holes or trenchs should be about 3" deep.  Space the rhizomes about 8 to 12 inches apart.  Lay them flat in the bottom of the hole or trench.  Don't worry about which side is up.  Cover with about two inches of soil.  Water deeply.  If some of the soil washes away, add more.

Fertilize occasionally throughout the growing season.  Keep soil moist, but not soggy.  Weed, if necessary.

When I plant color, I tend to do it in a big way.  No dabs here and there for me.  I like lots of it; bold statements.  Try it.  I think you will like it, too.  Plant a box of tuberous begonias in your garden.  They are sure to please.  You'll be surprised how many ways you can use them.

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Stopping Short For Moneywort

I'm not ashamed to pick up pennies wherever I find them.  As a gardener, plantsman and writer, I can use the extra income.  Anything that even looks like money gets my attention: bottle caps, small metal plugs and such.  So when I first spied Moneywort, I stopped short and said, "Oooo, oooo!  What's that?"

Its botanical name is Lysimachia nummularia (pronounced "ly-si-MAK-ee-uh noo-mew-LAH-ree-ah").  The genus is named for Lysimachus (360-281BC), the successor to Alexander The Great, king of Macedonia and Thrace, who is said to have fed the plant to his oxen to calm them.   "Nummularia" means "coin-shaped."  It also goes by other common names including "Creeping Jenny", "Herb Twopence" and "Two-penny grass".

Moneywort is native to Europe, but is used in North America as an ornamental ground cover.  So successful is it that some consider it invasive.  But, dear friends, you can't blame a ground cover for doing what ground covers do best; they cover ground.

Plant height ranges from 1" to 3".  Foliage is evergreen.  My favorite is L. nummularia 'Aurea', which sports bright chartreuse or yellow leaves.  'Aurea' is a little less aggressive than the species.  Yellow flowers are produced throughout the growing season.  Moneywort spreads by sending out runners, adding richness and color to the garden.

Moneywort thrives in full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 3 through 10 in moist soil.  Because it needs consistent moisture, partial shade is recommended in the hottest climates, though heat itself is not the issue.  Recommended soil pH ranges from 5.6 to 7.5.

This ground cover is most effective between taller perennials and shrubs, in container and bog gardens, and cascading over stone walls.  It's fine around stepping-stones, tolerating some foot traffic.

If soil is compacted, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 10" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  If the soil is high in organic matter and friable, it may not require cultivation.  Compost may be incorporated into the soil, if necessary.  Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant Moneywort with other plants having similar cultural requirements.  Space the plants 24" to 36" apart, depending upon plant size. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.  Fertilize sparingly and irrigate when necessary.

Moneywort grows so well throughout so many climate zones, it could lend richness and color to your garden, too.  Your garden visitors will stop in their tracks, and say, "Oooo, oooo!  What is that?"

See how nicely Moneywort cascades over the rims of pots in this water garden?

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A Flurry Of Snowdrops In Spring

Springtime brings a flurry of favorite flowers, and among them are Snowdrops.  Snowdrops belong to the genus Galanthus which comprises about 20 species ranging from the mountains of France to western Turkey.  They pop up in so many places around the world, however, that you'd think they belonged just about everywhere.  Perhaps from as early as Roman times, they were carried about and planted as far away from their native habitat as Britain.  They are still so popular that plant hunters can't resist the urge to dig them up.  In fact, some species are so threatened that it is illegal under international trade agreements to disturb them without a permit.  (Be assured that those we market are sold legally and not harvested from the wild.)

The most widely available species is Galanthus nivalis.  Galanthus (pronounced guh-LAN-thus) means "milk-flower", referring to its color.  Nivalis (pronounced niv-VAL-iss) means "growing in snow."

Snowdrops are perennial plants that grow from bulbs.  Long, narrow leaves resemble narcissus foliage.  Flowers are produced in late winter to early spring on stems about 12" long.  After flowering, the leaves yellow and die.

Like very many ornamental plants, Snowdrops are toxic and must not be eaten, so care must be taken if planting where "munchkins" might be tempted to sample them.  Sensitive persons should consider wearing gloves if handling any part of the plant, especially the juice from cut stems or bulbs.  Interestingly, though, they contain a substance called galanthamine which is used in the treatment of Alzheimer's disease.  Bear in mind that it is not a home remedy.

Because they are toxic, Snowdrops are deer and rodent resistant.

Snowdrops thrive in full sun to partial shade in climate zones 3 through 8, and require slightly but consistently moist soil that is high in organic matter.  Best pH should range from 5.6 to 7.5.

As always, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office before planting.  They will send it to a lab for analysis and recommendations.  Expect to pay a nominal fee.  If you don't understand the report, ask the County Agent to interpret it for you.

Planting begins in fall, and must be done soon after you receive them.  They will not be happy if left to dry out.

Unless you are naturalizing them in the lawn, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 8" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  A good all-around practice for bulbs and such is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden.  Repeat the application when growth appears, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

Plant the bulbs about 4" deep.  Depth is measured to the bottom of the hole.  Recommended plant spacing is 2" to 3" apart.  Figure on planting 10 bulbs per square foot.

The plants require very little maintenance.  Plant them and forget about them.  They are wonderful for bulb gardens, perennial gardens, container gardens as well as for naturalizing in meadows, around the margins of lawns, and in woodlands.  After blooming, be sure to let the leaves yellow and die before cutting them.  Leaving them alone will allow the bulbs to build up food reserves for a glorious show the next year.  Believe me, a generous planting of Snowdrops is a wonderful sight that will quickly chase the winter blues.

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The Magic Of Persian Buttercups

Ranunculus asiaticus, also known as Persian Buttercups, are fabulous perennials with a most unlikely name.  Ranunculus (pronounced ra-NUN-ku-lus), you see, means "little frog."  They are so called because some of the other species within the genus are native to watery places.  But this magical plant bears no resemblance to its salientian namesake.  Reminds me of Der Froschkönig.

Persian Buttercups are native to the eastern Mediterranean region and nearby Asia, southeastern Europe and northwestern Africa.  Flower colors range from white to shades of pink and red, orange and yellow.  Plant height and spread are approximately 12" to 18".

Though they are cold hardy in USDA climate zones 8 through 11, there is hardly a gardener who can not use them.  The tuberous roots can be dug when the weather begins to cool, and stored until the following spring, but gardeners who live in cold climates often save themselves the trouble and treat them as annuals, planting fresh ones each year.


Flowering begins in late spring and continues into early summer.  Persian Buttercups are excellent in container gardens, perennial and bulb gardens, and absolutely fantastic for cut flower arrangements.  They are particularly beautiful when planted in lavish beds, or tucked here and there among other flowers.

Plant in full sun and in average, well-drained soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.5.

Before planting, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  They often provide collection bags.  For the most basic recommendations, you may be charged a nominal fee.  For more information such as micro-nutrient and organic content you may be charged more.

Ranunculus planting begins in fall for gardeners in warmer climates.  Gardeners in colder climates should plant them in spring a couple of weeks or so before last frost.  Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep. Poorly drained sites can be improved by raising the height of the planting beds.

Your soil sample report from your local Cooperative Extension Service will include fertilizer recommendations based upon the results of the test.  Following instructions should be a good bet.  A fine all-around practice for Ranunculus is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of garden.  Repeat the application when shoots appear, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.  Apply 2 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet of garden area every two weeks until flower buds appear.  Bone meal is often beneficial.

Like many popular ornamental plants, Persian Buttercups are toxic to mammals.  Some chemicals in them can also cause skin irritations for sensitive persons, so avoid prolonged contact.

The tuberous roots are attached together at the top and somewhat resemble claws.  Plant them "claws" down about 2” deep, and 8" apart for a lush appearance.  They don't look like much, but know that they will soon be transformed into something handsome as if by magic.  Cover them with soil and add a top-dressing of mulch about 2" deep to suppress weeds.  Water regularly, but do not over-water.

To induce new blooms, remove (dead-head) spent flowers.  Of course, cutting them fresh for arrangements is perfect for encouraging more.  When hot weather arrives, the plants will begin to yellow and go dormant.  After leaves have dried, the roots may be dug and stored.

Plant a box of them.  When your "little frogs" bloom, you'll be astonished and wonder, "Where have you been all my life?"

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The Politeness And Grace Of Freesia

Freesia

There was a time long, long ago when love was romantic and intentions were made known discreetly.  Rather than rumble through the neighborhood to the thunder of deep bass and obscenities, polite suitors gave blossoms to signal their desires in an idiom without words.  It was called "the language of flowers."

Freesia symbolized innocent friendship.  A gift of purple lilac hinted at love's first emotion.  A red tulip in hand was a bolder declaration of love.  Sunflowers indicated pure and lofty thoughts, but a handful of coriander might elicit a smart slap across the face.  Bearing a branch of linden in bloom (somewhat analogous to thundering through the neighborhood to deep bass and obscenities) could result in really big trouble and cause a fellow to "rue" the day that he ever entertained such thoughts.

Freesia (prounounced FREE-see-uh), native to South Africa, is very popular as a cut flower for arrangements.  Colorful flowers ranging from white and yellow to pink and blue appear on long racemes in spring.  The fragrance is often used in bath and body oils and in aromatherapy.  Plant height is approximately 18".

It is also superb for indoor gardening, fragrance gardens, bulb and perennial borders in mild climates.  Because all parts of the plant are toxic, be cautious if growing them where children may nibble them.

Freesia thrives in USDA climate zones 8 through 11, in full sun to partial shade.  Plant in organic, well-drained garden soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.

Before preparing your planting site, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  For a nominal fee, they will send the sample to a lab for analysis.  The analysis will normally be sent to you through the mail.  If the test results seem somewhat cryptic and difficult to understand, don't hesitate to call your County Agent for explanation.

Planting begins in late summer to fall.  Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds.  Mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden.  Repeat the application when growth appears, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue.

The bulbs look like onions.  Plant them 2" to 3" deep with the pointed end up.  Depth is measured to the bottom of the hole.  Recommended plant spacing is 3".  After planting, water well.

When the bloom season is over, the foliage will stay green for several weeks.  Let it remain to build food reserves in the bulb for future seasons.  When the leaves turn yellow and die back, they may be removed.

As mentioned earlier, freesia are excellent for forcing indoors.  Choose containers with drainage holes, and fill them with a good grade of peat-based potting soil.  Plant the bulbs 2" deep and 1" to 2" apart.  Water thoroughly after planting until water comes out of the drainage holes.  After the water has drained, place the containers in a sunny place.  Because it's often difficult to provide enough light indoors, freesia may become "leggy" and require support.  Decorative stakes or rods will suffice.  Soil should remain slightly moist, but never soggy.  If possible, keep the room temperature a bit on the cool side in order to prolong bloom time.  After flowering, your freesia may be transplanted outdoors provided that your climate is freesia-friendly.

Restore a sense of innocence, elegance and politeness to your surroundings with freesia.  By all means, share them with your friends.  The graceful stems, color and fragrance will be most welcome.

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Enjoy A Multitude Of Muscari

Muscari, also known as Grape Hyacinths, are wonderful little plants that are very easy to grow and highly adaptable. They have been popular for so long, and so widely distributed that you'd think they are native to everywhere. But they are native to parts of Europe, around the Mediterranean region, west and central Asia.

There are 30 or 40 species, but you could count on one hand those that are commonly cultivated. Popular ones include Muscari armeniacum, Muscari botryoides, Muscari comosum, Muscari latifolium and Muscari macrocarpum.

The name, muscari, refers to their fragrance which is thought to resemble musk. M. armeniacum is so-named because it is native to the region surrounding Armenia. M. botryoides refers to the appearance of the flower clusters resembling grapes. M. comosum refers to the hairy appearance of the flowers. The wide leaves of M. latifolium suggested its name. Macrocarpum means "large-fruit."

Flower colors include dark blue, light blue, lilac, white and yellow. If you are looking for a dark blue flower for your garden, muscari are sure to please. They are excellent for bulb gardens, perennial gardens, container gardens, rock gardens, mass plantings, or naturalized areas. Muscari look best when planted in multitude. Perhaps the most famous planting of blue grape hyacinths is in Holland’s Keukenhof Gardens where the lavish river of color flows amongst the trees.

Most grape hyacinths are hardy in USDA climate zones 3 to 8. Plant in full sun or partial shade in average, well-drained soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.

Before planting, take a sample of your garden soil to your local Cooperative Extension Service office. They often provide collection bags. With each soil sample, indicate the type of bulb you intend to grow in it. For the most basic recommendations, you may be charged a nominal fee. For more information such as micro-nutrient and organic content you may be charged more. Follow the recommendations.

Bulb planting begins in September or October, depending upon your area. Your Cooperative Extension office can advise you. Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep. Poorly drained sites can be improved by raising the height of the planting beds. Common soil amendments include sulphur for lowering pH, limestone for raising pH, sand for helping drainage, clay for slowing drainage, gypsum for breaking up caking clay and compost for enriching the soil. Bone meal is especially good for bulbs. Which you should use depends upon your particular circumstance. Your local Cooperative Extension Service should be helpful.

Your soil sample report from your local Cooperative Extension Service will include fertilizer recommendations based upon the results of the test. Following its instruction should be a good bet. A fine all-around practice for Spring-flowering bulbs is to mix 5 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of bone meal per ten square feet area of bulb garden. Repeat the application when shoots appear, but be careful that fertilizer does not come into direct contact with plant tissue. Apply 2 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet of garden area every two weeks until flower buds appear.

Most flower bulbs should be planted three times as deep as they are wide. For muscari, that means about 3” deep. Plant them about 4" apart. Cover the bulbs with soil and add a top-dressing of mulch about 2" deep to suppress weeds. Unless snow or rain fall is inadequate, irrigation should not be necessary.

Many popular flower bulbs are toxic to mammals, but muscari are apparently not among them. In parts of Greece and Italy, the bulbs of M. latifolium are eaten as pickles. But unless you know what you're doing, it's best not to eat them. They could at least cause an upset stomach.

Muscari require practically no maintenance. Plant ‘em and forget about ‘em. They should return every year in greater numbers than the last, and provide you with a fantastic display.

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Sedum: Hidden Jewels Of The Plant Kingdom

Sedums are hidden jewels of the plant kingdom: easily overlooked, but enchanting for those who seek them out. Get on your hands and knees and take a close look! You'll see what I mean. My grandmother loved sedums; all of them. They spilled out of planters and into the grass. She tucked them into the tightest crevices of stone walls where they thrived in the barest patches of available soil.

Their ability to thrive in almost any area contributed to their nicknames “stonecrop” and “graveyard moss”. Sedums are incredibly popular, but not visually redundant because there are so many varieties. They vary in foliage, flower, and growth habit ranging from mats only a few inches high to plants 2 feet high. Sedums are often used as edging plants, in rock gardens, on slopes, between stepping stones and in containers.

All of them are perennials with thick, succulent, water-storing leaves that make them very drought tolerant. They grow quickly in full sun and in almost any poor soil type as long as it is slightly acidic and well-drained. Sandy or rocky soil is ideal. If taller varieties are planted in rich soil or shade they will be tall, lanky and topple. Most varieties attract butterflies and other pollinators.

Plant Sedums about 10” apart. Pint sized plants usually mature within the year. Sedum should be divided every 3 to 4 years to maintain compactness and older plants will split in the center if undivided. Seed heads need to be pruned only once after all the blooms have finished, but they can be left over winter to provide food for birds. Remove seed heads in the spring when new growth shows. In the spring, you can propagate through stem cutting or division. It’s easy to pull a rosette off the main plant and transplant the small rosette to a new area in the garden. Let the ground dry between irrigations. Lower growing varieties tend to be dense and choke out weeds.

Sedum is seldom bothered by pests including deer and rabbit because of its peppery taste. Slugs, nematodes and aphids can be problematic if unchecked, but are easy to control.

Several varieties I think are particularly eye-catching include:

S. x ‘Autumn Fire’ - A Canadian import that looks just like ‘Autumn Joy’ but has denser foliage and brighter pink color. It’s 30” tall in bloom and spreads 2’ in Zones 3-9.

S. x ‘Autumn Joy’ - Grows 3’ high in bloom and 2’ wide in Zones 3-9. Green, flat and spiky foliage, which mounds up to 1’ high, produces long stalks and 4” wide broccoli-like blooms. Beginning in July, flowers then turn pink, red and rusty-red through the fall. Butterflies adore this plant.

S. x ‘Vera Jameson’ - Hardy in Zones 3-9 it grows up to 8” high and 18” wide. Nice clumpy succulent bluish-green foliage turns purple in autumn and gets 4” pink blooms in late summer. Bold fall season color.

S. kamtschaticum var. floriferum ‘Weihenstephaner Gold’ - Dark green ovoid leaves sprout low clusters of yellow blooms from May to September. Grows 5” tall and spreads 1’.

S. makinoi ‘Ogon’ - Native to Japan, it grows best in Zones 7 to 9. Attaining a 2” height and 12” width, it is ideal for potting, takes the heat and looks good all summer. Blooming in August, its tiny nearly yellow foliage looks like gold pebbles on the ground.

S. reflexum 'Blue Spruce' - Grows in Zones 3 to 9. Semi-evergreen half inch, but thick blue-green leaves whorl around linear stems that sprout stalks topped with 1” bright yellow flower clusters. Gets 10” tall when in bloom from June to August.

S. rupestre ‘Angelina’ - Grows 3-6” tall with a 1’ spread in Zones 4-9. This golden ground cover with citrus yellow shoots sort of resembles a glowing pinecone. Butterflies and bees like it. Invaluable for the stone garden, it blooms July to September.

S. sarmentosum 'Yellow Moss' - The main plant has thick ovoid green leaves, but produces radiating branches of slim leaves under pointy bright yellow flowers. One of the toughest sedums, it typically grows where ever you throw it. Gets 5” in high with unbridled spread. Blooms late spring to early summer.

S. sieboldii ‘October Daphne’ - Flat blue green foliage grows around the stem in groups of three. Has pink flowers in late summer through early fall. The whole plant turns pink during cold weather and it grows up to 1’ tall in Zones 3-10.

S. spurium ‘Dragon's Blood’ - One plant produces a 6” tall mat can spread up to 3’, so plant them 18” apart. Produces taller head-turning red blooms in late summer. Its burgundy leaves turn burnt orange in the fall. Hardy in Zones 4-9.

S. spurium ‘Fuldaglut’ - Green/bronze fleshy whorled foliage turn burgundy in fall and produces pink blooms in late summer. In Zones 4-8 it grows 6” tall and 8” wide.

S. spurium ‘John Creech’ - Has a moderate growth rate. Only 3” tall it can spread well over a foot. Its small scalloped bright green leaves have clusters of lavender flowers in the fall.

S. spurium ‘Tricolor’ - A low growing (4” tall) variety that spreads up to 15” in Zones 3-9. Variegated sage green, white and pink foliage produce pink to mauve blooms in June and July.

S. tetractinum 'Chinese Sedum' - Flat, round, green summer foliage turns reddish bronze in fall and produces bright yellow flower clusters. Only 3” tall, it spreads 1’ in Zones 4-8.

Maybe my grandmother liked lots of color or maybe she just liked abundant no-fuss plants. She found Sedums to be perfect landscape plants for her home. I bet you will too.

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A Different Kind Of Daffodil

The Peruvian daffodil (Ismene or Hymenocallis x festalis) is not widely planted or known, though the flower is beautiful and the plant is very easy to grow. Actually, it is not a daffodil at all. The blooms have an exotic appearance, something like a cross between a daffodil and crinum. Fragrant flowers are white or yellow. Glossy, evergreen, strap-like foliage adds a rich appearance to the garden. They have no serious insect or disease problems. Plant height is 18" to 24".

Hymenocallis is cold-hardy in USDA climate zones 8-10, preferring rich, moist but well-drained soil with pH in the range of 6.1 to 7.5. The plants prefer full sun, but light shade is tolerable.

If grown in colder climates, plant outdoors after danger of frost is past. A soil test will indicate any necessary soil amendments. Your local Cooperative Extension Service will send you soil sample to a lab for testing. Fees are nominal. Call their office for instructions.

Prepare the soil by cultivating deeply and incorporating recommended soil amendments. The bulbs should be planted 8" deep and 12" to 15" apart.

Flowers usually appear within two weeks of planting, so Peruvian daffodils are perfect for filling in garden spaces after flowers like tulips and narcissus have finished blooming. Blooms appear before foliage emerges, so the plants seem a bit naked for awhile.

In those areas where they are not cold-hardy, Hemerocallis bulbs should be dug just after first frost and allowed to dry. Roots must be left intact. After excess soil is removed, the bulbs can be stored in a warm, dark area of the home.

Peruvian daffodils are also excellent for container gardening, especially in mixed plantings. If forcing, the bulbs can be brought into flower by bringing them into a warm, well-lit room. After blooming, they can be planted outdoors when weather has warmed.

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Dahlias For Best Of Show

Every flower has it's following of fans, and the dahlia certainly has it's share. The plant is native to Mexico and South America, and named for Anders Dahl, the Swedish botanist. Dahlias were first introduced to Spain in the 1780s. They are now available in so many colors, sizes and forms that they have some appeal for practically any gardener. I've seen them growing in gardens fabulous and famous, and in gardens beside humble dwellings in mountain hollows. No matter the setting, they lend a grand elegance. They are not only beautiful in the perennial border, they make excellent cut flowers and are often grown for show.

Dahlias are tuberous-root plants that are grown from seed, cuttings or tubers. Most gardeners start with tubers because they are easily obtained and predictable.

Dahlias require exposure to full sun for at least 6 hours per day, and well-drained sandy loam with pH between 6.0 and 7.5. To determine nutrient needs, take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Office for testing. Call first for details. Prepare the soil by cultivating deeply and amending the soil according to soil test recommendations. Amendments should be incorporated into the soil.

Large-flowering dahlias require higher levels of soil nutrients. Fertilizers high in potash such as 5-10-10 or 4-8-12 are often recommended. Applications of composted manure, bone meal and blood meal also improve the soil. Medium-flowering plants require half as much fertilizer as the large ones. Small-flowering dahlias need very little fertilizer since smaller blooms are considered to be more desirable.

Large dahlias will need staking to prevent them from bending or breaking. Begin by driving 6' stakes into the ground at the places where you intend to plant. The stakes should be driven 18" deep and 3' to 4' apart. Then prepare planting holes next to the stakes. If the stakes are spaced 4' apart, you should be able to plant two dahlias per stake. Planting holes should should be about 4" deep unless the soil tends to be dry. If it tends to be dry, the holes should be 6" deep. Place the tubers 4" or more away from the stake. The upper end should be slightly elevated in the bottom of the hole. Sometimes it's difficult to determine which end of the tuber is up. Look for growing points, or "eyes". The end with the "eyes" should be the upper end. Most of the eyes should be facing upward. Cover with soil and water well. Take care that bits of synthetic fertilizer do not come into contact with the tubers.

Watering is necessary if rainfall is not adequate. Dahlias require at least 1" of water per week, perhaps more if weather is hot. Irrigate weekly so that the soil can drain between watering.

Cultivate frequently to prevent the soil from compacting and to remove weeds, being careful to avoid disturbing the plants and stakes. If you prefer not to cultivate, a layer of mulch will help to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Additional fertilizer may be applied around the large-flowering dahlias during mid-summer. Apply 5-10-10, 4-8-12 or another recommended fertilizer at a rate of 1 or 2 tablespoons per plant. Do not allow fertilizer to come into contact with the plants.

As the plants grow, selected branches and buds should be removed to encourage better blooming. Pinching to remove is usually sufficient, provided that pinching is done at the right time. The first pinching should occur when 4 pairs of leaves have developed. At that time, pinch out the very top of the plant to encourage branching along the side. As side branches develop, select the best 4 to 6 branches to remain and remove the others. As those remaining branches develop, remove buds that appear along the sides of them to encourage development of best quality blooms.

Gardeners who grow dahlias for exhibition do even more pinching and disbudding to produce the best flowers possible. They also apply more fertilizers and insecticides, and take steps to protect the flowers from sun exposure to enhance bloom color. It is not within the scope of this article to discuss the various techniques here.

When cutting flowers, use a sharp knife or pruners and cut at a slant. Immediately place the cut ends in a container of cold water. If the flowers begin to wilt, cut the stem once again a couple of inches above the last cut, and place in the water.

The most common pests include aphids, thrips, leaf hoppers and spider mites. Various insecticidal soaps and chemicals can be used to good advantage. Always carefully follow label instructions.

After the first hard frost, cut off the plant stalks close to the ground. After a couple of weeks, the tuberous clumps can be dug and stored over winter. Store them in a very cool and dark place. Care must be taken to prevent them from freezing and drying. Baskets make excellent storage containers because they allow ventilation along the sides. Without adequate ventilation the tubers will rot. Sprinkle with water every week or so to replace lost moisture.

In spring, the tuberous clusters can be divided. Each division may consist of one or two roots with "eyes" at the top. The division can then be planted as before, or shared with others.

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Cannas: Bright and Bold

For a bold color statement in the garden, you can't do better than plant cannas. Cannas are sometimes called "canna lilies", but they are not true lilies. They are closely related to Ginger. Cannas are perennials that grow from rhizomes. A rhizome is a thick stem that grows horizontally at or just below the soil surface. The stem is segmented by nodes. Roots grow from the bottom of the rhizome. Shoots and leaves may appear along the top and sides of the rhizome.

Cannas produce large leaves that resemble banana foliage. Leaf color depends upon variety and ranges from light green to burgundy or even bronze. Colors may be solid, variegated or striped. Impressive clusters of floppy flowers are produced at the top of the plant that range in shades of red, pink, orange, yellow or combinations thereof. Their appearance is very lush. Plant height varies by variety, ranging from 3 to 6 feet or more. Therefore they lend themselves well to all kinds of uses from container gardening in small spaces to mass plantings along highways. A mass planting of cannas is stunning, like big brushstrokes of paint in the landscape.

Though they appear very tropical, cannas can be grown almost anywhere in the United States. They are reliably cold hardy in USDA climate zones 8 through 10, but can be grown as annuals or lifted and stored over winter in cooler zones. Where cannas are not cold hardy, they may be started indoors in containers during the months of February or March and planted outdoors when danger of frost is past. This will give them a head-start so flowers can be enjoyed before mid-summer.

Cannas prefer full sun but will tolerate partial shade with a minimum of four hours of direct sun per day. Rich soil, moist but well-drained, is best with mildly acidic pH ranging from 6.0 to 6.8. They are not too picky, though. I've seen them doing quite well in ditches and at the edges of ponds. The best way to determine if the pH is within range and contains the proper nutrients is to have the soil tested. Your local Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service can help you. You can collect the soil sample yourself. For a nominal fee, they will send your soil sample to a laboratory for analysis. Be sure to call the Extension office for instructions.

Cultivate the soil to the depth of 10" and add plenty of well-rotted compost. Remove weeds and debris. Soil test results may recommend other soil amendments. Follow those instructions. The soil amendments you may use depends upon the type of soil you have in need of amending. Common soil amendments include sulphur for lowering pH, limestone for raising pH, sand for helping drainage, clay for slowing drainage, gypsum for breaking up caking clay and compost for enriching the soil. Bone meal is especially good for rhizomes. Which you should use depends upon your particular circumstance. If you use synthetic fertilizer, allow at least a week before planting so it can be incorporated into the soil by rain or irrigation and not burn the rhizomes.

Plant your cannas in spring after the danger of frost has passed. Planting holes or trenchs should be about 4" deep. Space the rhizomes or plants 12" to 18" apart. Lay them flat in the bottom of the hole or trench. Don't worry about which side is up. Cover with about two inches of soil. Water deeply. If some of the soil washes away, add more. Avoid heavy watering until new shoots grow to 4" height.

During summer, you may fertilize occasionally. Apply 2 tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer per ten square feet of garden area every two weeks until flower buds appear. Do not allow synthetic fertilizers to come into contact with the plants. Irrigate if rainfall is inadequate. About one inch of water per week should be sufficient. When you water, do so deeply in order that moisture will reach the roots. Weed when necessary. A light mulch of straw will help to preserve moisture and suppress weeds. Other than that, very little maintenance is needed. Though it is not necessary to remove spent flowers, doing so will prevent seed from forming and may encourage a longer bloom period. Occasional application of a recommended insecticide will keep away leaf-eating insects such as Japanese beetles, though the extent of their damage is usually minimal and cosmetic. Call your Cooperative Agricultural Extension Office for insecticide recommendations. Always, follow label instructions.

Shorter growing cannas are wonderful in container gardens. Use the finest potting soil; cheap soil will give poor results. The best potting soils will be light-weight, peat-based with added materials to enhance plant growth. Select containers that will allow you to include companion plants, if desired. Larger containers will require less frequent watering. The addition of water retentive gel can be beneficial. Plant the rhizomes at the proper depth.

If yours is a climate where cannas will not survive the winter, you can dig and store them for planting next year. At the end of the season following the first hard frost, lift them, cut off stems and leaves and wash the rhizomes. Large ones may be divided with each piece having three or four "eyes." "Eyes" are growing points resembling buds where future growth will appear. Pack in peat moss and store in boxes or bags with some ventilation. Plastic bags with ventilation holes like potatoes come in will do nicely. Store in a dark place where the temperature can be maintained between 45 and 55 degrees F. Moisture should not collect in the storage container. On the other hand, the rhizomes should not be allowed to dry out.

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