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FAQ: Is Carolina Jessamine salt tolerant?

2012-01-28T11:09:00.000-05:00

(Note: I'm often asked whether certain plants are salt tolerant. I intend to address the subject generally in a later blog article.)

We are interested in purchasing some Carolina Jessamine, but have a question. We plan to use it to climb on a pergola at our beachfront home. The local county agricultural extension agent says that it is salt-tolerant. What do you think? Do you know of anyone who has grown in successfully in a beachfront environment?

I can not think of a specific beachfront property where I've seen Gelsemium sempervirens growing, but that's probably because it is so ubiquitous in S. GA. I've seen it growing in the wild all over Skidaway Island. I was on Jekyll Island recently, and saw plenty of it near the rivers and beach.

A paper, SALT TOLERANT PLANTS Recommended for Pender County Landscapes published by Cooperative Extension Service, Pender County, NC, shows Gelsemium as being moderately salt tolerant.

I could not find a similar document from your state that names Gelsemium, but if it's salt-tolerant in NC it's salt-tolerant where you live.

Return to Gelsemium at goGardenNow.com.

USDA Unveils New Climate Zone Map

2012-01-26T15:18:00.000-05:00

The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) today released the new version of its Plant Hardiness Zone Map. This is the first update since 1990. This map was jointly developed by USDA's Agricultural Research Service and Oregon State University. It is available online at www.planthardiness.ars.usda.gov.

The map is specifically designed to be internet friendly and interactive. You can click on your state and it will show a close-up with counties clearly delineated.

This new version of the map includes 13 climate zones, 2 more than the previous version. Each zone is a 10-degree Fahrenheit band, and each 10-degree band is further divided into A and B zones, differing by 5-degrees Fahrenheit.

To help develop the new map, USDA and OSU requested that horticultural and climatic experts review the zones in their geographic area, and trial versions of the new map were revised, based on their expert input.

The new climate zone designations are a result of using temperature data from a 30-year period, 1976-2005. The older 1990 map was based only on data from the 13-year period from 1974 to 1986.

More sophisticated data measurement methods factors such as changes in elevation, proximity to bodies of water, and terrain. In addition, the data was collected from more stations than before, resulting in greater accuracy and detail.

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Beardtongue - More Appealing Than It Sounds

2012-01-23T12:20:00.000-05:00

The name, "Beard-tongue", doesn't sound at all appealing. Monstrous, perhaps. Or a symptom of illness. Yet, among plants, the Beard-tongue is much more appealing than it sounds. The name belongs to the genus, Penstemon (pronounced PEN-stem-on) and refers to the flowers' five stamens - 4 fertile and 1 infertile. Trumpet-shaped penstemon flowers more or less resemble open mouths. The infertile stamen, protruding through the mouth, suggests the common name. This photo by Walter Siegmund appearing at Wikipedia, shows a good example.

Or is that Mick Jagger coughing up a fuzzball?

Penstemon is a large genus including over 250 species. Most are native to North America. As you can see from the PLANTS Profile map, they enjoy a very wide distribution, and may be found from alpine to desert environments. In addition to the species, very many hybrids have been developed. Many of the newer ones are derived from Mexican species. Though hardiness differs by species and hybrid, they tend to share other requirements - full sun to partial shade, well-drained soil, pH between 6.1 to 7.8.

Flower spikes, rising above the foliage, generally blossom from June through September. Species range in height from 4 inches to 72 inches. As you might expect, the shorter species tend to be more cold-hardy. Foliage is usually evergreen. I recommend them for alpine gardens, rock gardens, low perennial borders, hanging baskets and and containers.

Tall penstemons are wonderful in groupings, adding height, color and texture to mixed annual and perennial borders. They're marvelous for cut flowers. All penstemons attract butterflies and hummingbirds.

Though penstemon's have enjoyed mild popularity since the 19th century, the selection of Penstemon digitalis 'Husker Red' as the 1996 Perennial Plant of the Year sent their popularity soaring. Consequently, many new varieties and hybrids have been developed.

When choosing penstemons for your perennial garden, select those which are hardy in your climate zone. The USDA climate zone map is an indispensible resource. If the ones you like are not hardy in your area, don't despair, they can be treated as annuals. If only semi-hardy, a good layer of mulch over winter may protect the crowns enough to survive.

Before planting, take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. Follow their instructions. If amendments are recommended, incorporate them into the soil when cultivating. Cultivate to a depth of 10 inches. Remember, good drainage is essential.

You might wonder whether penstemon has any known medicinal attributes. As a matter of fact, various species do. Herbal Medicine of the American Southwest, by Charles Kane, says that penstemon has been used as a poultice for skin wounds, insect bites and rashes. HerbNET reports that penstemon has also been used to relieve toothache, stomachache, chest pains, fever and chills.

In review, penstemons are wonderful for cut flowers, and for attracting hummingbirds and butterflies. They're also fine for xeriscaping. Those with medicinal herb gardens may consider including penstemon in their collections. With so many species and hybrids available, you're sure to find several that are appropriate for your garden.

Return to Penstemon at goGardenNow.com.

AAS Anounces Three New Display Gardens

2012-01-20T12:46:00.000-05:00

Those of you who enjoy visiting gardens, or enjoy reading about them in my Behind The Garden Wall blog series, may especially appreciate those gardens that display All America Selections Winners. All Winners are flower or vegetable plants that have been "Tested Nationally and Proven Locally®" by AAS judges who are experienced horticulturists. Once plants have been announced as Winners, they are available for purchase by gardeners nationwide. AAS Display Gardens give gardeners opportunities to see those plants up-close and personal before they purchase seeds or plants. It's a great service that All America Selections and AAS Display Gardens provide.

All America Selections announced the recent approval of three public gardens as AAS Display Gardens. They are the University of Wyoming Garden in Laramie, Wyoming; Tizer Botanic Garden and Arboretum in Jefferson City, Montana; University of Hawaii Urban Garden Center in Pearl City, Hawaii. These are the only AAS Display Gardens in their respective states. There are now 47 states with AAS Display Gardens. You who will be traveling to these states, or live there, will certainly want to include the AAS Display Gardens in your itinerary.

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FAQ: What garden tasks should I do in January?

2012-01-19T11:30:00.000-05:00

Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for January organized by region.

Northeast States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance. Remove snow from evergreens to avoid limb damage. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus for later delivery. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones.
Mid-Atlantic States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus for later delivery. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed.

Mid-South States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance. Begin spraying dormant oil on dormant fruit trees. Feed house plants, and inspect them for insects and disease and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus for later delivery. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

Lower South and Gulf States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance.Begin spraying dormant oil on dormant fruit trees. Continue planting and transplanting broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees as long as weather is above freezing. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant, if you haven't done it yet. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, asparagus for later delivery. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Follow the same regimen as for Northeast States.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Follow regimen for Lower South and Gulf States.

Pacific Northwest States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance. Begin spraying dormant oil on dormant fruit trees. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant, if you haven't already. Remove snow from evergreens to avoid damage. Maintain house plants. Refill bird bath. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus for later delivery. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

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Centaurea - Stars In Your Garden

2012-01-18T12:35:00.000-05:00

"What ridge of the pasturing woodlands must I traverse to summon old lifebringing Cheiron to help your wound? Or where can I find medicines, the secrets of Paieon the Healer's painassuaging art? Would that I had what they call the herb centaury, that I might bind the flower of no-pain upon your limbs, and bring you back safe and living from Haides whence none returns! What magic hymn have I, or song from the stars, that I may chant the ditty with Euian voice divine, and stay the flow of blood from your wounded side? Would I had here beside me the fountain of life, that I might pour on your limbs that painstilling water and assuage your adorable wound, to bring back even your soul to you again!" Nonnus, Dionysiaca, Book 35, line 60ff.

Raised in a family of homoeopathic physicians, I traversed Appalachian woodlands with them in search of botanical remedies. "Boys, now, boys," Pop would say with weighty pauses as he stopped us to probe herbs with his staff, "this is...." Then he'd tell us of their medicinal properties. For him and his sons, the doctors, the hikes were born of compassion for their patients.

For us grandchildren, they were adventures. I do remember hearing of centaury, Centaurium, or maybe it was Centaurea.

"Lifebringing Cheiron", mentioned by Nonnus, was a seminal figure in the ancient Western world for his mastery of medicine. Pliny the Elder wrote in his Natural History that Cheiron actually discovered botany and pharmacy. Cheiron (aka Chiron, Kheiron), however, was not a man, but a centaur - half man and half horse. A different kind of centaur, he was more intelligent and not given to drunkenness like the rest.

Cheiron was sired by Kronos (aka Saturn), a titan of mythical proportions. Kronos was romping with a nymph, Philyra, when his wife/consort Rhea showed up unexpectedly. Kronos quickly turned himself into a stallion to avoid recognition, and proudly galloped away. Philyra, pregnant and abandoned, gave birth to Cheiron. Stung by the ignominy, Philyra begged Kronos to turn her into a linden tree (Tilia spp), which he did.

Though (or perhaps because) he was half horse, Cheiron was lucky. He lived. Kronos ate most of his other sons.

Cheiron, not hobbled by his circumstances, turned out well. He became a master of the healing arts, and taught others. Consequently, we've all benefited. Asclepius, one of Cheiron's most accomplished students, traveled to Cos where he inspired Hippocrates. There Hippocrates established a medical school from whence healing knowledge was disseminated, passed down through the ages, eventually studied by my grandfather and father, and here I am telling you about it!

Cheiron has been immortalized in the names of various plants. Centaurea is one of them. There are about 40 species and subspecies of Centaurea thriving in North America, some of them naturalized from Europe. Of those, nearly half are commercially available as ornamental plants. The rest are either not desirable or heartily despised.

As you may have guessed, Centaurea was so named because of purported medicinal qualities. C. montana is sometimes use in Europe as an eyewash. The dried flowers made into tea are also said to break up mucous congestion, cleanse the kidneys and generally de-toxify the body, and act as astringent mouthwash.

You may recognize some of the common names: Bachelors Button, Basketflower, Centaury (a name mostly associated with Centaurium, which is a different genus), Cornflower, Dusty Miller, Knapweed, Mountain Bluet, Starthistle.

Hardiness varies according to species. Among the most popular are C. cineraria and C. cyanus. Not cold hardy, they are grown as annuals or tender perennials. C. montana, one of my favorites, is a hardy perennial, thriving in USDA climate zones 4 through 8. The many star-like flowers remind me of a constellation in the garden.

Centaurea prefers average, well-drained soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8. Choose a site in full sun or partial shade. Take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. Follow the recommendations.

If the soil is compacted, till to a depth of 10 inches. Add amendments, if necessary. Remove all traces of weeds. Seeds of C. cyanus may be sown in rows or gently sprinkled on the surface and lightly covered. Space container grown C. cineraria 12 inches to 18 inches apart. Space C. montana 18 inches to 24 inches apart. Water the plants in the pots, and allow to drain. Plant no deeper than they grew in the pots; in other words, don't bury them. Gently water as you back-fill with soil.

C. cineraria is usually grown for its foliage. C. cyanus and C. montana are grown for their flowers. All are reasonably drought-tolerant and deer-resistant. Use them for xeriscaping, butterfly gardens, cut flowers, mixed annual and perennial borders. Many gardeners like to establish theme gardens. Centaurea is perfect for heirloom plant collections and medicinal gardens.

You might be wondering what became of those characters I mentioned before. Here's a brief summary.

Asclepius knew too much, having discovered the secret to immortality. Zeus killed him with a thunderbolt to keep the secret from getting out.

Cheiron died of a poison arrow in the foot, and now resides in the heavens as the constellation Sagittarius.

The doctors are deceased, except for one who is alive and well at 95 years old.

Hippocrates died. Physicians recite his Oath.

Kronos (Saturn) is still ticking.

Philyra is still sung and danced about.

Return to Centaurea at goGardenNow.com.

Results of Community Poll ending 17 January.

2012-01-17T10:47:00.000-05:00

Our community poll ending 17 January asked the question: "Where do you usually turn for gardening information?" Possible answers included, 1) Print media; 2) The internet. Only 2 people responded. Both answered: The internet. Well, the last month was not a good one for polling, I guess. I really want to know, though, so I've extended the time to answer by another 15 days. To answer this question, go to my BackYardFruitGuide blog.

A new Community Poll is being conducted at goGardenNow.com. It asks the question, "Do you favor All-America Selections winners for your garden?" You can participate by going to goGardenNow.com. Look for the Community Poll in the right-hand side bar. You may also participate here at goGardenNow.blogspot.com.

15% Off Spring Bulbs

2012-01-12T11:45:00.003-05:00

I'm offering a 15% discount off the regular price of spring bulbs (calla, caladiums, dahlias, lilies, gladiolus, elephant ears, etc.) if purchased before 1 March. In addition, all purchases that amount to $50 or more qualify for free shipping. Go to Bulbs & Such at goGardenNow.com. I can tall you now that caladiums will probably be in short supply again this year, so get your orders in early.

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FAQ: Where are the pictures?

2012-01-11T10:52:00.001-05:00

You only include one or two pictures of gardens when you post blog articles about gardens. Why don't you show more?

Okay, I admit that this is not a frequently asked question. You're the first to mention it, but I'm guessing that other people wonder the same thing. Actually, I do make lots of pictures available on the World Wide Web. To see them, look for links in the body of any article. A link is a word or phrase that is a different color than the rest of the text. Sometimes the word or phrase is underlined. Click on it. A new browser window should open and display the picture. Here is an example of a link to a picture.

Sometimes there are other interesting, trusted web sites with information pertinent to the article, so I'll provide links to those, too. Here is an example of a link to an interesting web site. If you're not in the habit of clicking on links within trusted web sites (like mine), get started. That's what the World Wide Web is all about.

Sometimes images are activated to function as links. For example, if you click on this link, it will take you to a single article in my blog. If you go to the top of the page and click on my goGardenNow logo (in the rectangular block with the two yellow flowers), it will take you to my blog and display all the most recent articles I've posted. Cool, eh?

To read articles in my newest blog, click on this BackYardFruitGuide link.

Here's another great link: Return to goGardenNow.com.

FAQ: What is the best way to rid my garden of nematodes?

2012-01-11T10:05:00.000-05:00

What is the best way to rid my garden of nematodes?

I don't know of any nematicide that is labeled for use in the home garden by the homeowner. So the simplest way would be to solarize your garden. Solarizing is best done during hot weather of summer. Before planting, remove debris from the garden. Till the soil and rake it smooth. Irrigate briefly to moisten the soil. Spread a large, clear sheet of plastic over the garden. I recommend you use heavy-duty plastic, otherwise holes may develop allowing hot air to escape. Bury the edges, then add weights around the perimeter. You may also need to distribute weights over the sheet to prevent wind from pulling the center up. Concrete blocks or buckets of sand will work fine. For good measure, you may spread a second sheet above the first, resting it on the distributed weights around the center. Bury the edges and weight around the perimeter, as before. This will create a greenhouse effect with more hot air trapped above the first sheet. Leave the plastic in place for 6 weeks or so. Remove the plastic when you're ready to plant. This method heats the soil to a depth of 6 or 8 inches sufficient to kill nematodes. This is also a good method to kill weed seeds before planting.

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Washington Irving's "Sunnyside"

2012-01-09T16:16:00.000-05:00

Sometimes a detour from the busy highway leads to enchantment. That's especially true in the storied Hudson River Valley where all thruways and traffic seem to be sucked into New York City, and figuring where to exit can be a startling discovery in the rear-view mirror.

After a day in Manhattan, I wanted respite. My son and daughter-in-law knew where to find it. Ducking under I-87, we slowed onto Sunnyside Lane finally coming to rest at the home of Washington Irving.

Irving (1783-1859) was one of America's earliest authors of international renown. While most writers were publishing books of practical value, Irving was penning for pleasure, while his readers enjoyed his writings at least as much. His Tales of the Alhambra has enticed travelers since 1832. Irving's Sketch Book has delighted readers with magical tales such as "The Legend of Sleepy Hollow" and "Rip Van Winkle." Those, of course, were inspired by tales of his beloved Hudson River Valley.

Near what he called the "wizard region of Sleepy Hollow", Irving purchased a small cottage known as "The Roost" overlooking the river and began adding to it in 1835. "I have had an architect there," he wrote, "and shall build a mansion upon the place this summer. My idea is to make a little nookery, somewhat in the Dutch style, quaint but unpretending.” The new architectural elements included motifs characteristic of New York Dutch and places he loved in Spain and Scotland. He named it "Sunnyside."

He described it in his book, Wolfert's Roost and Miscellanies (1855). "About five-and-twenty miles from the ancient and renowned city of Manhattan, formerly called New-Amsterdam, and vulgarly called New-York, on the eastern bank of that expansion of the Hudson, known among Dutch mariners of yore, as the Tappan Zee, being in fact the great Mediterranean Sea of the New-Netherlands, stands a little old-fashioned stone mansion, all made up of gable-ends, and as full of angles and corners as an old cocked hat. Though but of small dimensions, yet, like many small people, it is of mighty spirit, and values itself greatly on its antiquity, being one of the oldest edifices, for its size, in the whole country. It claims to be an ancient seat of empire, I may rather say an empire in itself, and like all empires, great and small, has had its grand historical epochs. In speaking of this doughty and valorous little pile, I shall call it by its usual appellation of 'The Roost.'"

Irving wrote much about its history and more about its former owners, then gleefully announced, "I have become possessor of the Roost! I have repaired and renovated it with religious care, in the genuine Dutch style, and have adorned and illustrated it with sundry reliques of the glorious days of the New Netherlands. A venerable weathercock, of portly Dutch dimensions, which once battled with the wind on the top of the Stadt-House of New Amsterdam, in the time of Peter Stuyvesant, now erects its crest on the gable end of my edifice; a gilded horse in full gallop, once the weathercock of the great Vander Heyden Palace of Albany, now glitters in the sunshine, and veers with every breeze, on the peaked turret over my portal; my sanctum sanctorum is the chamber once honored by the illustrious Diedrich, and it is from his elbow-chair, and his identical old Dutch writing-desk, that I pen this rambling epistle."

Irving landscaped the property in an appropriate rustic style. A long curving drive led downhill and passed a small pond which he called his "Little Mediterranean." There he would sit in clement weather to draw inspiration and write. A small orchard not only provided necessary fruit but enhanced the scene as it satisfied his interest in growing things. He planted climbing vines such as trumpet creeper (Campsis radicans), English ivy (Hedera helix) and wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) against the edifice, which remain to this day. Visitors will also find a small gardener's cottage surrounded by flowers and vegetables.

It was and remains an enchanting place, but think it was more so in its early days. A comfortable sitting room with plenty of glass opened onto the river view. Irving, his family and guests could rest on the veranda, stroll down the gentle slope to sun on a small beach, go boating, or fish.

Unfortunately the idyll was corrupted when the railroad was constructed between "Sunnyside" and the Hudson. His quiet retreat with its unspoiled vista and fresh river breezes was often interrupted by the iron behemoth belching coal smoke. Irving was furious, of course, fuming that they'd build a railroad through heaven, if they could. The "iron horse" has been replaced by less interesting engines, and the nearby Tappan Zee Bridge conveys thousands of vehicles across the Hudson each day.

Tours of Sunnyside are conducted by docents, dressed in period clothing, who are very knowledgeable about "Sunnyside" and Washington Irving. As we got to know our guide better, we learned that she was also well-acquainted with Savannah, my hometown, and Charleston, where she once lived. It was fun to discover that affinity.

You can buy individual tickets on site. If you live in the area, check online at Historic Hudson Valley to learn about various levels of membership that will allow "affordable, close-to-home fun along the Hudson." There are grander estates waiting for you to explore, and events to experience!

Not far from "Sunnyside", you'll find the Old Dutch Church of Sleepy Hollow where Washington Irving is buried. Walk around the church and explore the cemetery. It's free. You'll find lots of other notables buried there. Take US 9 north to Tarrytown. The Old Dutch Church address is 430 North Broadway, Sleepy Hollow, NY 10591.

There is an ancient sycamore tree near Sunnyside's lane that has the distinction of being recognized jointly by The Internation Society of Arboriculture and The National Arborist Association in 1976 as a Bicentennial Tree, "having lived here during the American Revolutionary period." It's humbling to be in the presence of something so old that has weathered the winds of change. I'm reminded of another old tree within the walls of the Alhambra which Washington Irving is said to have mused to be the “only surviving witness to the wonders of that age of Al-Andalus.”

It's mysterious how serendipity works.

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FAQ: What should I use to cover my plants during cold weather?

2012-01-04T11:23:00.001-05:00

It's forecast for the temperature to drop into the "teens" tonight. I'm afraid that some of my plants will be damaged by the cold. I can't dig them up and bring them inside. What should I cover them with?

First, let me say what you should NOT drape them with: plastic. Plastic does not allow for air or moisture exchange. That may seem like a good thing, but isn't. While plastic will trap heat, it does it too well. When the sun comes out, the air beneath the plastic will heat and your plants will cook. Not only that, moisture will condense under the plastic and likely freeze during the night. Foliage in contact with the plastic and frozen condensation will be damaged.

Though advanced materials are available on the market, you probably don't have time to find and purchase them. So cover your plants with cotton fabric. Old bed sheets will do just fine. They are relatively light weight, so shouldn't mash your plants. But if you're concerned about that, use some tall garden stakes to elevate the sheets above the plants.

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Results of Community Poll Ending 17 December

2011-12-17T13:23:00.000-05:00

Our Community Poll ending 17 December asked the question: "Will you be planting a fall vegetable garden this year?"

Frankly, only 4 people responded to this poll. 50% "yes" and 50% "no".

Our cool season vegetable garden is quite productive. We are having good success, so far. Sugar snap peas, broccoli, bok choy, arugula, swiss chard, cilantro, savoy and collards are looking good. Believe it or not, eggplant, poblanos and bell peppers are still producing.

I hope you'll participate in our current Community Poll. You'll find it in the right-hand side bar of this Community Poll link.

FAQ: How can I keep paperwhites from falling over?

2011-12-14T14:26:00.000-05:00

I get very frustrated with my forced paperwhite narcissus plants. They get too tall and fall over. Do you have any suggestions?

I have two suggestions. The first is very simple. Loosely tie a decorative ribbon around the bowl when you set the bulbs in it. As the foliage and flower stems lengthen, slip the ribbon upward.

The other suggestion is to set the new bulbs in the bottom of a clear glass vase about 12 inches tall. You will be able to enjoy watching the foliage and flowers extend upward, while the vase prevents them from flopping over.

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The Fragrant Garden, Forsyth Park, Savannah, GA

2011-12-12T15:37:00.000-05:00

Not sure of visiting hours, I arrived at The Fragrant Garden in Forsyth Park, Savannah, Georgia in the nick of time. Peggy, the docent, was locking the gate. But since we're friends, she left the entrance ajar with assurance I'd secure it on my way out.

When in the Fragrant Garden, Peggy invites passers-by to come in for awhile. Then she tells of its history and points out interesting things in her sweet Savannah voice.

The Fragrant Garden is located within what was originally a "dummy fort", one of a pair which were completed in 1915 for training the Savannah Volunteer Guard. Known as East and West Dummy Forts, The Fragrant Garden is in the West Fort. The East Fort was recently developed as Forsyth Fort Visitor Center Complex, including a café and outdoor stage venue.

The idea for a fragrant garden for the blind was conceived by Jessie Dixon Saylor (1896-1987), collector of customs for the Port of Savannah from 1954 to 1961. (Mrs. Saylor was the wife of Maj. Gen. Henry B. Saylor (1893-1970). Both were close friends of President and Mrs. Eisenhower.*) The Fragrant Garden was inspired, I believe, by the Tennant Lake Fragrance Garden near Ferndale, WA, which she had visited. Mrs. Saylor circulated the idea in Savannah, and it was embraced in 1959 by the Garden Club Council of Chatham County. The garden was designed by Landscape Architect Georges Bignault, and dedicated in the spring of 1963. I remember well those days of childhood when I played in the park. Our house on Whitaker Street was within sight.

The fragrant garden consists of a small parterre and fountain, roses, raised beds planted with fragrant species, and identifying plaques in braille. An ornate stone bench affords a shady place to rest and reflect. The old walls contain the scented air; small birds and splashing water enliven it.

The entrance gates, set in an ornamental iron fence, once belonged to the Old Union Station. Sadly, the Station was demolished in 1963 to make way for Interstate 16 entering Savannah. The gates were given in memory of Frances S. Littlefield by The Gordonston Garden Club and Friends. Littlefield, a longtime member of The Gordonston Garden Club, was the first nationally accredited Flower Show judge in Chatham County, Georgia.

The Fragrant Garden was neglected and run-down for a number of years, overtaken by weeds, ne'er-do-wells and worse. Recent renovation by the Trustees' Garden Club according to a plan by landscape designer John McEllen, and policing have restored it to its former beauty.

The following is a partial list of fragrant genera and species on display:

Citrus x 'Meyeri', Crinum asiaticum, Daphne odora, Daphnephyllum, Fothergilla major 'Mt. Airy', Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans', Hedychium, Illicium floridanum, Iris cristata, Lilium, Magnolia, Matthiola, Narcissus, Osmanthus fragrans, Rhododendron canescens, Rhododendron indica, Rosa, Rosmarinus officinalis, Viola.

Speaking of the braille plaques in an interview with the Savannah Morning News, Walt Simmons, executive director of the Savannah Association for the Blind, said, "An even more useful tool would be a voice recording to explain what the species are, since the vast majority of visually impaired people are not fluent in Braille." But no recording can replace Peggy's dulcet voice.

* Albert Merriman Smith, Backstairs At The White House, UPI, April 21, 1959.

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FAQ: What garden tasks should I do in December?

2011-12-05T13:28:00.001-05:00

Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for December organized by region.

Northeast States: Pot up narcissus and amaryllis (Hippeastrum) for forcing. Pot up spring bulbs for forcing. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often.

Mid-Atlantic States: Pot up paperwhite narcissus and amaryllis (Hippeastrum) for forcing. Pot up spring bulbs for forcing. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often.

Mid-South States: Finish planting and transplanting trees and shrubs. Pot up paperwhite narcissus and amaryllis (Hippeastrum) for forcing. Pot up spring bulbs for forcing. Feed house plants, and inspect them for insects and disease and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often.

Lower South and Gulf States: Continue planting and transplanting broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Finish plant winter-blooming annuals. Continue planting cool-season vegetables. Pot up paperwhite narcissus and amaryllis (Hippeastrum) for forcing. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees as long as weather is above freezing. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Follow the same regimen as for Northeast States.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Follow regimen for Lower South and Gulf States.

Pacific Northwest States: Finish planting and transplanting broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Divide perennials and transplant. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Pot up spring-flowering bulbs for forcing. Plant cool-season vegetables. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant. Maintain house plants. Refill bird bath. Refill bird feeders often.

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FAQ: Will daylilies bloom in partial shade?

2011-11-29T11:51:00.001-05:00

We are considering purchasing daylilies for mass planting in our yard. However, we have areas that only get 2 to 3 hours of direct sun each day. Would the 2 to 3 hours of full sun give the plant enough light to fully bloom?

If the shade is not deep, you should get sufficient bloom. However, the plants may not be as dense, compact, floriferous as in full sun. The more sun the better, but daylilies will perform under less than ideal conditions.

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Where The Autumn Fern Grows

2011-11-26T13:00:00.001-05:00


Dryopteris erythrosora

Oh, what a glory doth the world put on
These peerless, perfect autumn days
There is a beautiful spirit of gladness everywhere.
The wooded waysides are luminous with brightly painted leaves;
The forest-trees with royal grace have donned
Their gorgeous autumn tapestries;
And even the rocks and fences are broidered
With ferns, sumachs and brilliantly tinted ivies.
But so exquisitely blended are the lights and shades
The golds, scarlets and purples, that no sense is wearied;
For God Himself hath painted the landscape.
-Helen Keller, Autumn

Autumn Fern is one of the most colorful. Other common names include Japanese Shield Fern and Japanese Red Shield Fern. Its botanical name is Dryopteris erythrosora (pronounced dry-OPP-ter-iss ehr-ith-roh-SOR-ra), meaning "oak fern - red sori." The names refer to its habitat among broadleaf evergreen trees and the color of the spore-producing structures under the fronds. Obviously, the fern is native to Japan, but also to China and Korea.

Autumn fern's colors begin in spring when the garnet-red croziers (fiddleheads) begin to emerge. As the fresh young fronds unfurl, their colors change to bronze and finally mature to dark green. Oddly, Autumn ferns are more attractive in spring than autumn, yet the spring colors are reminiscent of fall.

Autumn fern normally grows in loose clumps 18 to 24 inches tall with an equal spread. It prefers partial to full shade in moist, well-drained soil high in organic matter with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.5. It is hardy from USDA climate zones 5 into 9.

Little soil preparation is needed before planting. Moist, well-drained soil high in organic matter shouldn't need tilling, especially if in a woodland setting. If the soil requires amendment to increase the level of organic matter, some tilling might be required. Remove all traces of weeds. Collect a soil sample and take it to the nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. Follow the instructions provided.

When planting, water the plants in their pots, then allow the pots to drain. Remove the plants from their pots and place in the planting holes at the same depth they grew previously. Water again. Finally, apply a layer of organic mulch to conserve moisture and discourage weeds.

Gardeners troubled by deer and rabbits will be glad to know that this fern is critter resistant. Similarly, autumn fern is insect and disease resistant.

Autumn fern is ideal as a ground cover for shade gardens and woodland walks, fern collections, and Asian plant collections. Suitable companion plants include Astilbe, Chrysogonum, Galium, Hosta, Heuchera, Hyacinthoides, Sanguinaria, Scilla, Selaginella, and ferns with similar requirements.

Return to Ferns at goGardenNow.com.

John J Marshall
goGardenNow.com

The Stately Royal Fern

2011-11-25T15:28:00.000-05:00

Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis)

Who does not know
That those famed caves, on Arran's western shore,
Were King's Coves called, because they shelter gave
To Scotland's bravest King in hour of need
And when we see how richly they are fringed
With royal fern, might not we almost think
This stately fern delighted still to grow
'Midst scenes once honoured by so great a prince

-David Landsborough, Arran: A Poem

Royal ferns (Osmunda regalis - pronounced os-MUN-duh re-GAY-liss) are so named because individuals can grow to be rather large. Some specimens have been recorded up to 5 feet tall and 5 feet across. You can't miss them in the garden. Sterile fronds sprout as slender croziers in spring, yellowish green in color and lightly tinged with terra-cotta. Mature fronds are bright green. The leaves are deciduous, turning pleasing yellow in fall before becoming brown. When back-lit by the sun, the yellow fronds are distinct and beautiful.

Many gardeners struggle with wet soils. Filling in the low spots is often considered to be remedy, but the water is simply redirected somewhere else sometimes causing another problem. I recommend leaving the wet areas alone and populating them with suitable plants. The royal fern is such a plant. Because they thrive in wet soil, royal ferns are ideal in rain gardens and bog gardens, beside streams and ponds. They'll even live in standing water. Tramping outdoors, they are often found in light shade, but royal ferns can certainly tolerate full sun.

Orchid growers are familiar with royal ferns, though they may not realize it, for the dried rhizomes of royal ferns have been used as potting medium for their epiphytes. Other materials are now more often used.

Widely distributed, royal ferns can be found growing in many parts of the world. It's no surprise, then, that they are hardy in a wide range of climate zones. In North America, these perennials are hardy from USDA hardiness zone 3 to 10.

Though they can become large, mature royal ferns can be as small as 24 inches tall and as wide. Much depends upon the moisture level.

Not much soil preparation is needed. Tilling wet soil would be a futile exercise, anyway. A soil sample should be taken to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. Follow the instructions. Recommended soil pH is 6.0 to 7.8.

Plant bare-root ferns in mid- to late spring or fall. Container-grown ferns may be planted any time of year. Space them 24 to 48 inches apart.

Very little to no maintenance is needed. Fertilizer should not be necessary. Brown fronds may be removed in winter. Soil moisture should be maintained.

Suitable companion plants may include red maple, pond cypress, dawn redwood, myrtle-leaf holly, inkberry holly, baccharis, coastal leucothoe, elephant ear, cinnamon fern, netted chain fern, yellow water iris, jewel weed, horsetail and acorus.

Return to Ferns at goGardenNow.com.

My New Blog: Backyard Fruit Guide

2011-11-21T21:54:00.001-05:00

Hello friends and followers of goGardenNow! I've received so many e-mails asking for advice about backyard fruit growing, that I have decided to begin a blog on the subject. It's called Backyard Fruit Guide, and it's designed to help backyard and community gardeners. I hope you'll benefit. If you have questions about backyard fruit growing, feel free to contact me at the e-mail address provided in my profile.

FAQ: Is it okay to mulch with...?

2011-11-21T13:57:00.001-05:00

I want to mulch around my flowerbed with the leaves from my yard but I was told by someone that oak and pecan leaves are bad for your garden. Some chemical in them. Is that true? Can I not use them? If I can, what is the best way to use them to add organic matter to my flower beds?

Yes, you may rake the leaves directly into the flowerbed around your garden. Oak and pecan leaves contain tannin, an acidic compound very common in plants. Tannin is what makes strong tea astringent. It's also the active ingredient in oak bark traditionally used for tanning leather. Tannin is found in some form in practically every plant family. While oak and pecan leaves may acidify the soil, the pH can be easily adjusted. If you take a soil sample to the nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis, you'll receive instructions on how to adjust it.

For best results, I suggest you compost your leaves before applying them to your flowerbed.

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Results of Community Poll Ending 19 November

2011-11-19T16:04:00.001-05:00

Our Community Poll ending 19 November asked the question: "Should the edible plants you purchase be raised organically?" A whopping 83% answered YES.

Participate in our next Community Poll. You'll find it in the right hand side bar.

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All-America Selections Announces 2012 Winners

2011-11-15T15:15:00.001-05:00

All-America Selections has announced the winners for 2012. Seeds should be available at your favorite seed retailer in Spring.

Ornamental Pepper ‘Black Olive’ (Capsicum annuum) is the AAS Flower Award Winner that has shown superior heat tolerance. Striking purple foliage shows nicely with the fiery red edible peppers.

Salvia ‘Summer Jewel Pink’ (Salvia coccinea) is the AAS Bedding Plant Award Winner. Lovely pink flowers appear earlier than other pink salvias, and last longer. It attracts hummingbirds, too.

Pepper ‘Cayennetta’ F1 (Capsicum annuum) is a AAS Vegetable Award Winner. The plant is compact, bears heavily, and is easy to grow. Peppers are 3 inches to 4 inches long and exceptionally flavorful.

Watermelon ‘Faerie’ F1 (Citrullus lanatus) is another AAS Vegetable Award Winner. The skin is yellow, yet the meat is a traditional red. Home gardeners will love the novel coloring and the compact habit. Fruits are about 7 inches x 8 inches and weighs 4 to 6 pounds.

Learn more at the All-America Selections website.

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Cinnamon Fern: A Beautiful Solution

2011-11-14T16:07:00.001-05:00

Rambling through moist woodlands of Eastern North America, you're likely to come upon Cinnamon ferns. Why they are so named is not known precisely. The botanical name, Osmunda cinnamomea (pronounced os-MUN-duh sin-uh-MOH-mee-uh), means "fragrant, resembles cinnamon."

The Fern Bulletin, July 1907 reported, "Mrs. A. P. Taylor of Thomasville, Ga., writes that Osmunda cinnamonea glandulosa is decidedly aromatic. If bruised early in the day it is of a spicy fragrance. Mrs. Taylor suggests that this may be the origin of the name cinnamon fern, but the evidence appears to be against this." Mrs. Taylor guessed, but not well enough, apparently. The Missouri Botanical Garden website states that "the common name of this plant is in reference to the cinnamon colored fibers found near the frond bases." Though I highly respect MOBOT, that seems a bit obscure. My conjecture is that the name was derived from the tall, slender, cinnamon-colored spore-bearing fronds that appear in spring. They look like cinnamon sticks to me, and are very obvious. On the other hand, taxonomists have never been shy about referencing obscure or potentially embarrassing characteristics of plants when naming them. I suppose, though, that the only way to know for sure is to find a written record left by the naming taxonomist, or minutes of an ad hoc committee on naming this thing.

Cinnamon fern has also been known by other botanical names including Osmunda bipinnata, Osmunda cinnamomea var. cinnamomea, Osmunda imbricata, Osmundastrum cinnamomeum and Anemia bipinnata. I only mention them in passing; you needn't remember.

Cinnamon fern grows from 30 inches to 60 inches high, and as wide as it is tall. Light green fronds emerge as "fiddleheads" in spring, unfurling into a splendid display. Foliage is deciduous, turning light yellow in fall before browning. The cinnamon-colored spikes are very attractive.

The native range of Cinnamon fern is widespread. You can find it growing from the Gulf Coast counties of Texas to Southern Florida, and northward into Canada. That's from USDA Zones 2 to 10.

As I wrote earlier, you'll find it in moist woodlands. Wet to moist woodland soils may be sandy, loamy or clayey, and usually acidic because of the tannin in decomposing leaves. This fern, however, will tolerate slightly alkaline soil. Cinnamon fern thrives in light shade or partial shade, but will tolerate dense shade, too. Gardeners with sites like that often consider them to be problem areas. If you have such a site, you're actually in luck because Cinnamon fern is your solution plant, and what a beautiful solution it is.

Cinnamon fern requires little or no maintenance, and has no significant insect or disease problems. Deer and rabbits shouldn't eat it, though there's no telling what a really hungry deer will munch.

About the fiddleheads: these are probably not your edible types. That would be Ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris). Very many ferns are more or less toxic. I suppose that's what makes them unpalatable to deer and rabbits, which seem to have good sense about such things.

Before you purchase plants, get your planting site ready. Take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Office for testing. Make soil adjustments as prescribed. Wet woodland soils shouldn't need to be cultivated. You'd get bogged down if you tried. Moisture will incorporate soil amendments into the planting area very effectively.

Plant spacing will depend on how large they may grow, and whether you want them to grow together. Planting 24 inches to 30 inches apart should be good enough.

Water the plants in the pots, then drain. Dig planting holes into the soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Place the ferns into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. If planting bare root plants, the crowns should be just above the soil surface. Don't bury them. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1 inch deep. Fertilizer probably won't be needed, but ferns tend to benefit from occasional feeding with diluted fish emulsion. (Fish emulsion is not the product of the famous Bass O Matic, but nearly so.)

Shade gardeners and those who like to landscape with native plants should find Cinnamon fern to be very useful. Cinnamon fern is perfect for rain gardens, bog gardens, stream banks, shady ditches and, of course, moist woodlands.

Return to Ferns at goGardenNow.com.

FAQ: What's going on with my persimmon tree?

2011-11-14T10:49:00.001-05:00

I have a Japanese persimmon tree with two different kinds of leaves. One part of the tree has longer, narrower leaves. Another part has fatter leaves. The part with the narrow leaves doesn't bear fruit. What's going on with my persimmon tree?

I'm often asked questions such as this, mostly about common fruit trees like apples, peaches and pears. Japanese persimmon (Diospyros kaki) scions are often grafted onto American persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) seedling rootstocks. It sounds to me like the rootstock of your tree sprouted and grew, perhaps even overtaking your Japanese persimmon. The American persimmon is the one with the narrower leaves. You should remove the rootstock sprout, but it will surely sprout again - maybe even producing more sprouts next time. The larger the rootstock sprout has become the more new sprouts it will produce. If the rootstock sprout is as thick as your arm, you've got trouble. You'll have to stay on top of the situation and remove the new sprouts as soon as they appear.

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The Galloping Gardener at Nek Chand's Rock Garden, Chandigarh

2011-11-10T14:38:00.000-05:00

Readers of goGardenNow who enjoy my articles about gardens should also follow Charlotte Weychan's Galloping Gardener blog. This post about Nek Chand's Rock Garden, Chandigarh is fascinating.

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FAQ: What garden tasks should I do in November?

2011-11-10T10:40:00.000-05:00

Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for November organized by region.

Northeast States: Frost is possible. (How about that recent snow storm!) Plant and transplant broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers, spring-flowering bulbs until the ground is frozen. Pot up spring bulbs for forcing; keep them in an unheated room or cold-frame for the required time according to species. Finish pruning tasks. The recent heavy snow demonstrated that earlier pruning of weak or susceptible tree limbs could help one avoid later trouble. Fertilize trees and shrubs after they become dormant. Fertilize the lawn with a low-nitrogen fertilizer after frost to encourage root development. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees until ground freezes. Continue garden cleanup. Compost debris. Apply protective mulch in the garden and around plants to prevent cold damage. Feed house plants. Check house plants regularly for disease and insects; treat as necessary. Clean, lubricate and store hand tools for winter. Prepare gas-powered implements for winter storage. Clean bird baths and install electric heating elements, if appropriate. Clean bird feeders and refill.

Mid-Atlantic States: Same regimen as for Northeast States.

Mid-South States: Same regimen as for Northeast States. Continue lawn maintenance. Plant winter-blooming annuals, if you haven't already.

Lower South and Gulf States: Early frost is possible. Plant winter-blooming annuals, if you haven't already. Continue planting cool-season vegetables. Pinch back any annuals that appear leggy. Continue planting or transplanting trees, shrubs, ground covers, roses, spring and summer blooming perennials, spring blooming bulbs. Lightly prune trees and shrubs, but do not prune spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Remove or prune trees and branches that may be susceptible to storm damage. Continue lawn maintenance. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees as long as weather is above freezing. Wrap your exposed sprinklers in protective foam to prevent damage to pipes and valves. Feed house plants, and inspect them for insects and disease. Clean, lubricate and store hand tools for winter. Prepare gas-powered tools for winter storage. Clean bird baths, bird feeders, and refill.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Follow the same regimen as for Northeast States.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Frost is possible. Follow regimen for Lower South and Gulf States.

Pacific Northwest States: Frost is possible. Plant and transplant broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Divide perennials and transplant. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Pot up spring-flowering bulbs for forcing. Plant cool-season vegetables. Continue fall cleanup. Compost debris. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant. Feed house plants; inspect them for scale and disease. Clean bird baths, bird feeders, and refill.

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FAQ: My red maple leaves are yellow. Was I sold the wrong tree?

2011-11-09T12:26:00.000-05:00

From goGardenNow

I bought a red maple at a local garden center last spring. The leaves are turning yellow in autumn. Was I sold the wrong kind of tree? What kind of maple do you think I purchased?

Though it's possible for plants to be mislabeled, you probably purchased a red maple (Acer rubrum). The leaf color in trees grown from seed can vary from yellow to red, including splotches. Despite what you might have read, red maples aren't called so because of the leaf color in fall, but because the flowers and seed structures are red. If you want to be sure of having red foliage in fall, purchase a cultivar like 'October Glory' that will produce it, or buy a seed-grown tree in fall while the red leaves are on it.

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Birmingham Botanical Gardens

2011-11-03T14:22:00.000-04:00

November chill and damp weather seem like enough to keep one indoors, but such a day suits me. There's little I like better than to shuffle through fallen leaves in autumn. Sounds seem muffled. Colors are bolder in contrast. Woodlands reveal their secrets when not draped by summer's verdure. Last Thanksgiving season I found a perfect day for exploring the Birmingham Botanical Gardens.

The Birmingham Botanical Gardens is a living museum of plants - Alabama's largest. Over 10,000 specimens are displayed in 25 theme gardens throughout its 67.5 acres. The Birmingham Botanical Gardens is also home to the largest public horticulture library in the U.S. Gardens are maintained and open to the public every day of the year, and admission is free. It's no small feat, but a healthy partnership between the City of Birmingham and Friends of Birmingham Botanical Gardens makes it possible.

Late November is not a time for visiting rose gardens, azalea collections and floral displays. But it was ideal for enjoying features often hidden or overlooked.

One can't visit the Birmingham Botanical Gardens without encountering art, from graceful fountains to whimsical sculptures. Landscape design is no less an art form, and it is thoughtfully exhibited everywhere from formal vistas to tranquil scenes and pathways.

Birmingham, Alabama is a southern city of Appalachia. It's fitting that the Southern Living Garden is located in the Gardens. The Southern Living Garden is often featured in the publications of the Southern Progress Corporation. You'll also find garden features such as a rustic, covered well to remind you that you're in the foothills. A tool shed, familiar to every gardener, becomes a garden feature in the company of magnificent crape myrtles, cool-season annuals, espaliered fruits and iron furnishings.

Vegetable gardening is near and dear to agrarian hearts. The cool-season vegetable garden effectively displays the kinds and colors of crops that extend the edible harvest.

The Japanese Garden is a favorite destination of visitors to the Birmingham Botanical Gardens. Within it are so many delights that the Torii is literally a gateway to gardener's heaven.

Water seems like an essential part of any Japanese garden, but it isn't necessarily. The stone garden, also known as karesansui, is an example of the art form that gives the appearance of water and terrain to carefully raked pebbles. The flaming red foliage of a Japanese maple contrasts well with subdued shades. Crimson leaves fallen into brooklets shimmer like koi in sparkling water. Black bamboo intrigues. A red bridge reflected in water beckons twice from afar. Scattered fans of yellow ginkgo blanket the grass.

A walk back through the woods brought me face-to-face with a sinister-looking but harmless apparition.

The Conservatory at the Birmingham Botanical Gardens is a welcome place to come in from the cold. Tropical displays, exotic flowers like Plumeria, and the succulent cacti collection will whisk your imagination to warmer climates and tempt you to shed your coat.

For those in the southeast who like to keep up with the newest tried and true plants, the Birmingham Botanical Gardens is not to be missed for it is an official All-America Selections Display Garden. Here you'll have an opportunity to view AAS winners up-close. The Birmingham Botanical Gardens is the only All-America Selections Display Garden in Alabama.

Like any great garden, the Birmingham Botanical Gardens come alive with new pleasures as the seasons turn. If you're fortunate enough to live nearby, you should visit often.

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FAQ: Is there a vine to climb my wall without damaging the stucco?

2011-11-01T10:22:00.000-04:00

Can you please recommend me a small-leafed ivy that will grow in full shade in zone 10, and not be considered to have an invasive root system? I would like something to climb the north facing wall of my South Florida house without doing penetrating damage to the stucco. I need it to climb by itself without a trellis.

That's a tough question. Vines climb by two means: clinging and twining. Twining vines wrap around something. You don't want a trellis, so there won't be anything to wrap around. Clinging vines produce growths that allow the plants to attach to the walls somehow. Parthenocissus (Boston Ivy and Virginia Creeper) have little discs at the ends of modified roots that look like suction cups. They are very difficult to remove from a wall once attached (if you ever decide to remove the vine). Hedera (English ivy and such) produces little roots that find cracks and crannies in the wall and worm their ways into them. This can cause damage, too. Ficus pumila (Creeping fig) grows the same way, but I have seen it grow heavy and fall off of a wall during a storm without doing damage to stucco, so that might be a possibility for you. My wife insisted on planting a Campsis (Trumpet creeper) against a wall. It also attaches by little roots, but I've been able to pull juvenile vines off the wall without damage to the wall, but they are still juvenile. There may be some tropical vines about which I'm unfamiliar that would work. Trachelospermum asiaticum (Asiatic jasmine) is usually grown as a ground cover, but I've had some escape and try to climb the brick north-face wall of my house. I've been able to pull the juvenile vines off with ease, but they don't really grow thickly enough to achieve the look you desire.

In short, try Ficus pumila. It's not perfect, but may be your best bet. You might have to get it started by erecting a short, temporary trellis.

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Peacock Flower - Lovely By Any Name

2011-10-27T16:10:00.000-04:00

Call it Peacock Flower, Abyssinian Gladiolus, Fragrant Gladiolus, Sword Lily, Acidanthera bicolor, Acidanthera murielae or Gladiolus callianthus. Why it's called Peacock Flower is easy to guess, as is the appellation, "fragrant." "Abyssinian" because it is considered to be native to Ethiopia (some say to Madagascar). It's called Sword Lily because the leaves are sword-like, long and tapering to a point. The name Gladiolus means "little sword." It's called bicolor because the flower is either red, pink or purple on white. Callianthus means "beautiful flower." It was given the name murielae in honor of Muriel Wilson, daughter of famous plantsman and explorer Ernest H. "Chinese" Wilson (1876-1930). Acidanthera refers to the sharp anthers in the center of the flower. Whether one prefers the name Gladiolus or Acidanthera depends on whether one views it as a species of Gladiolus or a genus of its own.

By any name, it is a lovely flower that is easy to grow. It possesses a distinctive tropical elegance. Peacock Flower looks like other gladioli in most respects. The plant grows to 3 feet tall. Long flower spikes produce butterfly-like blossoms along the length. The height, bold foliage and showy flowers add interest to bulb gardens and perennial borders.

Peacock Flower is hardy from USDA climate zones 7 through 11. Blooms, suitable for cutting and flower arrangements, may appear from mid-summer to fall.

Choose a site in full sun with average, consistently moist but well-drained garden soil. Preferred pH may range from 6.1 to 7.5. Take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Follow the recommendations.

Cultivate the soil to a depth of twelve inches and amend it according to soil test recommendations. Remove weeds and debris during cultivation. It is usually a good idea to incorporate superphosphate into the soil before planting at the rate of two pounds per 50 feet of row. If superphosphate is not available, an application of 5-10-5 fertilizer at the same rate is recommended. Plant Peacock Flowers four to six inches deep and six inches apart in spring when the weather and soil has warmed. Do not allow synthetic fertilizer to contact the corms. Cover with soil and water well. An application of mulch can suppress weeds and help to retain moisture. All gladioli benefit from generous feeding. A second application of 5-10-5 fertilizer may be applied as a side dressing at the rate of two pounds per 50 feet of row when the emerging bloom spike can be felt at the base of the foliage. Again, the fertilizer should not come into contact with the plants. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers. Too much fertilization can encourage bulb diseases.

When cutting for flower arrangements, choose stems with no more than three flowers in bloom. For best results, cut the stems in the early morning or late evening when temperatures are cooler. Leave a few leaves on each plant so the corms will remain strong. Most growers allow four leaves to remain on the corm. Use a sharp knife or clippers making a clean cut. Plunge the lower ends of the stems immediately in a bucket of cool water.

Peacock Flowers are not hardy in colder climates than USDA zone 7. The corms can be dug in fall and saved for planting the next spring. For more information about that, read my article, FAQ: When should I cut my gladioli? .

Return to Acidanthera at goGardenNow.com.

FAQ: When should I cut my gladioli?

2011-10-27T11:15:00.000-04:00

Flowering stalks of gladioli (gladioluses, gladiolas or glads) may be cut when they are blooming. The flowers at the bottom of the stalk bloom first, and continue upward. It's best to cut gladioli when two or three of the lower flowers have fully opened. The best time of day to cut gladiolus stems is in the morning. You'll need sharp, clean clippers and a vessel of cool water. Place the stems in the water immediately after cutting to prevent the flowers from wilting. If you leave some flowering gladiolus stalks in your garden, cut them back as soon as the last flower fades.

Gladiolus leaves should remain on the plant until late summer as fall approaches. This will allow the plant to store food reserves in the corm, and to produce new corms. Eventually, the leaves will begin to look yellow and worn. Then you can prune the gladiolus leaves to ground-level. Remove the cut leaves to your compost bin.

If you live in a warm climate zone, you may leave the corms in the ground during winter. If you live in a cool climate zone, carefully dig the gladiolus corms before frost. If you have particular varieties, sort and label them. While sorting the corms, check them for firmness. Discard gladiolus corms that are soft. You'll notice that the corms are covered with a papery tissue. Do not remove it. Brush off any remaining soil. Store the gladiolus corms over winter in a cool, dark place where the temperature is about 40 degrees F.

Return to Gladiolus @ goGardenNow.com.

The Indian Holly Fern - Beauty In Simplicity

2011-10-25T16:52:00.000-04:00

Poking around one of my favorite streams in a wood, I saw a rather common fern for what seemed like the first time. Sure, I had noticed it before, but this time was different for I stopped long enough for a closer look and to be delighted by what I saw. Early plant explorers surely knew such pleasures. I imagine them hardly disembarked before stopping to study new finds and collect samples.

Karl Ludwig von Blume (1796-1862) was one of them. A German-Dutch botanist, he spent much of his life in southern Asia, especially in what is modern Indonesia. At the time, most of the archipelago was a Dutch colony. What a botanical treasure-trove he found.

Blume named a genus of ferns, Arachniodes (pronounced a-rak-nee-OH-dees), meaning "spider-like." The name was suggested, of course, by the growth habit of the plant. There are over 100 Asian species within the genus, and about 140 New World species.

A. simplicior (pronounced sim-PLIK-ee-or) is arguably the most beautiful. Common names include East Indian Holly Fern, Indian Holly Fern, Simplicior Fern and Shield Fern. Simplicior means "simpler", and it is in comparison with many of the other species which appear quite intricate. Its beauty is in its simplicity. Glossy evergreen fronds and pinnules are long and arching with light green variegation extending their lengths. It grows 12 inches to 24 inches high and may spread to 30 inches.

Indian Holly fern performs well in USDA climate zones 7 to 10 in partial shade. It prefers consistently moist soil, but not wet. Space large container-grown Indian Holly ferns 24 inches to 30 inches apart. Smaller ones can be planted closer together. Recommended pH is 6.5 to 7.5.

Such planting sites as those I mentioned shouldn't require cultivation. However, it's always wise to take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. You'll pay a nominal fee, and receive results within a couple of weeks. Follow instructions. I have found that ferns usually benefit from a top-dressing of compost and occasional feeding with diluted fish emulsion.

Shade gardens, fern collections, woodlands, moist stream banks and Asian gardens are perfect for the Indian Holly fern. Because it is relatively small, compact and evergreen, it also makes a fine house plant. It is deer-resistant. Indian Holly fern would make any plant explorer or garden visitor stop in his tracks for a closer look.

Return to Ferns at goGardenNow.com.

FAQ: Should I prune my Knockout roses this time of year? They have grown too big.

2011-10-25T13:51:00.000-04:00

I understand that you are concerned about the appearance of your Knockout roses, but I advise you to wait. Pruning stimulates new growth. New growth is easily damaged by freezing temperatures. Now it's late October, so cold weather will be arriving soon, if it has not already, in most parts of the country. If you live in a mild climate such as south Florida, you may prune Knockout roses now without much risk of damage. However, if you live in a colder climate, you should wait until spring when danger of freezing is past.

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Results of Community Poll Ending 17 October

2011-10-20T16:25:00.000-04:00

Our Community Poll ending 17 October, 2011 asked the question: "Should the ornamental plants you purchase be raised organically?"

27% of respondents said, "Yes."
73% of respondents said, "It doesn't matter to me."

This despite a small but growing trend among ornamental growers to produce their plants by organic methods. It will be interesting to see whether organically grown ornamental plants become popular with gardeners. Of course, our Community Poll is only a small sampling of interested gardeners. But that so few should care whether ornamental plants should be grown organically surprises me.

Our current open Community Poll asks the question: "Should the edible plants you purchase be raised organically?" I invite you to take part in our polling. I would like to know what you think.

Vote in our Community Poll.

Inspiring Fiddlehead Ferns

2011-10-20T13:45:00.000-04:00

Gentle fiddleheads
sprout like no characters
in earthly paradise

-Bosha Kawabata

The Fiddlehead fern is known botanically as Matteuccia struthiopteris (pronounced mat-TEW-kee-ah struth-ee-OH-ter-us), so named to honor Carlo Matteucci, a 19th century Italian physicist. Struthiopteris refers to the fronds which reminded some taxonomist of ostrich (genus Struthio) feathers. Other common names include Ostrich fern, for obvious reasons, and Shuttlecock fern. "Shuttlecock" because the array of spore-bearing fertile fronds that are produced in early spring resemble that thing you whack in a game of badminton.

Other botanical names applied occasionally to this fern have included Matteuccia pennsylvanica, Pteris nodulosa, Struthiopteris filicastrum, Struthiopteris pensylvanica, and Osmunda struthiopteris. Just so you know; it's not that important.

The name, Fiddlehead, could just as well be given to most any fern for their young fronds resemble the scroll or crosier of a violin as they emerge in spring. But I think the name is probably applied to Matteuccia because of its popularity as a spring delicacy, and the fiddlehead is what foragers look for.

Novice foragers should beware. Eating the wrong fiddlehead can make one ill. Matteuccia has a brown, papery covering at the base of the shoots. Other ferns may have fuzzy shoots or shiny green ones. Matteuccia can also be identified by a distinct groove on the front of mature fronds, the absence of spores on the back, a crown-like structure at the base of the fronds, and underground rhizomes growing outward from the crown. If that sounds like too much trouble, look for harvested fiddleheads in the northeastern U.S. at some farmers markets in the spring.

Matteuccia is a graceful garden fern from the moment the fiddleheads begin to emerge, inspiring poets and artists with its elegance. It grows to 6 feet tall, but more often to 4 feet. It spreads to 5 feet to 8 feet. The foliage is deciduous.

Native Matteuccia can be found growing in sandy soils near riverbanks and streams from southern Alaska to northern Virginia, but can be found in gardens from USDA climate zones 2 through 10. That's a very wide range, indeed.

Choose a site for yours in partial to full shade. Soil should be consistently moist, but well-drained and acidic (pH 5.6 to 6.0). Sandy loam is recommended. To determine if your soil needs amendment, take a sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Follow the instructions you receive.

If the soil needs no added sand, cultivation should not be necessary. Remove all traces of weeds before planting. Space container grown plants 24 inches to 36 inches apart. Bare root plants may be planted closer. Dig planting holes into the soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Water the plants in the pots, then drain. Place the ferns into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1 inch deep.

Matteuccia is perfect for moist, shady woodland gardens, native plant collections and wet areas near streams or ponds. Suitable companions include astilbes and hostas. Early spring wildflowers like Phacelia, Trillium, Claytonia, Sanguinaria, and Erythronium can be planted beneath them. You'll be inspired.

Fiddlehead fern!
Malachite blossom-
unfurl your sweet
head and wave
delicate jade fingers;
you darling jewel of
veridian tang.
My tongue sweats
at the very first
hint of your rising
joy.

--Andromeda Jazmon, from Esperanto: Ode to Green

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FAQ: About bare root plants.

2011-10-17T10:50:00.000-04:00

I've never done bare-root before. Is survival rate lower than with potted material? How soon after shipping do they need to be planted? Care before planting if they need to wait awhile (weeks) before planting?

Survival rate can be lower than potted material, but that depends upon the care they receive. Survival rate also depends upon the plant. Some tolerate lots of abuse while others do not. Liriope and ophiopogon, daylilies, irises tolerate lots of abuse.

None should be allowed to dry out entirely, be exposed to wind, sun or freezing temperatures before planting.

Ideally, bare root plants should be planted within a day of receipt. The plants are bundled, wrapped in moist packing material. We ship early in the week so that plants will arrive by the weekend.

If they can't be planted immediately, open the shipping container, set the bundles upright in the container, moisten bundles if necessary, keep in the shade. If plants can not be planted for several days, set the bundles in a nursery pot of potting soil and soak them in. Keep in shade. Check moisture daily.

Ivy (Hedera species) should be allowed to dry between watering.

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The Lasdon Park and Arboretum

2011-10-10T13:10:00.000-04:00

"...as Envy always dogs merit at the heels, there may be those who will whisper..."

-Sir Walter Scott, Old Mortality

As I visit private gardens, and those that once were, envy often rears it's head. Gardens of the wealthy are most desirable. Never mind that I don't have the means to establish and maintain such Edens, I want very much to own them, anyway. So I'm reminded that el pecado mortal is not exclusively a transgression of the wealthy, and that contentment is a rare jewel. My recent visit to Lasdon Park and Arboretum was another opportunity to learn the lesson. Follow me to see what grows behind that garden wall.

The property was formerly known as Cobbling Rock Farm, owned by Dr. Antonie Phineas Voislawsky (1872-1939). Dr. Voislawsky, a graduate of Dartmouth Medical College, was a well-respected rhinologist and otolaryngologist from New York City. He had practiced and consulted at various hospitals in and around New York City.

Situated off Route 35 in Somers, New York, Lasdon is bounded on the south and east by New York City watershed property and the Amawalk River. When the house burned in the early 1930s, Dr. Voislawsky rebuilt it as a three-story Colonial Revival style mansion, resembling George Washington’s Mount Vernon. After Dr. Voislawsky died in 1939, William S. and Mildred Lasdon purchased the estate for a country retreat.

William Stanley Lasdon's (b.1896 in Brooklyn, d.1984 in Manhattan) distinguished career included co-establishing and serving as treasurer of the Pyridium Corporation, officer and director of Nepera Chemical Company founded by Dr. Leo Hendrik Baekeland, a partner of Harriman Chemical Company, vice chairman and chairman of the executive committee of the Warner-Lambert Company, board member of Albert Einstein College of Medicine, a member of the Cornell University Medical College Board of Overseers, and a member of the Business Advisory Committee for Nixon-Agnew. In addition, he was president of the Lasdon Foundation, which he and members of his family set up in 1946 to support medical research and cultural institutions. Lasdon, along with Margaret Van Rensselaer Voislawsky (the widow of Dr. Voislawsky) and others, was also a charter member of the Somers Historical Society (1956).

The Lasdon estate provided jobs for a full-time staff to maintain the house and grounds. Mr. Lasdon had a strong interest in horticulture, so he imported many plant specimens to his estate as he traveled the world.

After Mr. Lasdon died, there was some interest in developing the property for commercial purposes. However, Westchester County purchased the land in 1986 for $4.2 million to preserve open space. It now adjoins the county's Muscoot Farm Park and the Mildred D. Lasdon Bird and Nature Sanctuary.

The Lasdon Park and Arboretum consists of over 200 acres with thematic sections joined by walking trails.

The William and Mildred Lasdon Memorial Garden, is located next to a parking area, so might be the one you'd visit first. The one-acre garden was made possible by a donation by their daughter, Mrs. Nanette Laitman. Within it are an entrance court and fragrance garden, the Formal Garden with fountain and busts of the Lasdons, and the Synoptic Garden. The Synoptic Garden features a collection of shrubs from A to Z, literally, beginning with Abelia x grandiflora 'Compacta' and ending with Zenobia pulverulenta.

The small Rain Garden appears to be a new addition. Rain gardens are becoming very popular as the importance of water conservation gains more attention. The rain garden at Lasdon serves a functional as well as educational purpose.

I visited in late July, so missed the Lilac Walk and Azalea Garden in bloom. For the same reason, I was unable to enjoy the magnificence of the Magnolia Collection and the Flowering Tree Grove. (I did see the Fragrant Epaulette, Pterostyrax hispida, in display.) This is true of any single garden visit; the seasons and their beauties are ever changing. You must visit often. I do intend to visit Lasdon during the appropriate seasons if I have opportunities.

The Magnolia Collection is home to a variety of species, including rare yellow-flowered ones. Some of the specimens were developed at the Brooklyn Botanical Garden in the 1950s.

The Conifer Collection includes species large and small. A special area is devoted to dwarf conifers. Among them I believe I spotted several varieties of Pinus parviflora, and P. thunbergiana 'Thunderhead'. It was difficult to be sure exactly for many of them were unlabeled.

The Street Tree Grove lines a drive, appropriately enough. Lindens, maples and oaks dominated the collection. Though the species were on trial for the New York State climate, any city planner and arborist would do well to visit the grove.

The Famous and Historic Tree Trail is a bit off the beaten path, though it's an easy walk to reach it. It features species that commemorate historic events and notable people from American history. The trees were propagated from seeds of parent trees that were witnesses to these characters and times. Small signs along a path tell their stories. The seeds were provided by the American Forestry Association.

The Chinese Friendship Pavilion and Cultural Garden symbolize the friendship between citizens of Westchester County and its Sister City, Jingzhou, in the People's Republic of China. The pavilion, the focal point of the garden, was given by that city, where it was constructed, disassembled, and shipped to the United States. It was reconstructed in the Cultural Garden by Chinese craftsmen with the assistance of park staff. The pavilion is surrounded by native Chinese species and overlooks a picturesque pond where we found deer meditating despite a gaggle of geese.

The Lasdon House was only recently opened to the public. Guided tours are available. The house provides offices for various horticulturally oriented civic groups, a library, and offers meeting spaces for workshops and classes. The pool house has been converted into a gift shop.

When I visited, concert-goers were arriving for an evening of music during the Midsummer Night Music Series. I wanted to stay for it, but couldn't. Other pleasant events are scheduled throughout the year.

I was unable to explore the Mildred D. Lasdon Bird and Nature Sanctuary. It's a 22-acre preserve which was donated to the county in 1976 by William Lasdon and named for his wife. Trails provide bird-watchers opportunities to view many species in various habitats.

The Westchester Veterans Memorial and Museum is also on site, but was closed the day I visited. It's only open on weekends.

Horticultural research is ongoing at Lasdon Park and Arboretum. A number of surviving native American chestnuts were discovered growing there, so a cooperative effort has been in progress since 1992 to develop blight-resistant chestnuts. Similarly, Lasdon is home to a large number of dogwood trees from around the world where they are studied to develop resistance to various diseases of Cornus species.

The park is open from 8 am to 4 pm daily. Fees are not charged for general visits.

For more views of Lasdon Park and Arboretum, please visit my Lasdon photo gallery where you'll see images of plants, gardens and vistas that I wanted for my own. Images, memories and ideas are all I carried away.

Researching the lives of William S. and Mildred D. Lasdon was about as interesting as exploring their country estate. Perhaps it has to do with a common fascination of wealth, the people who attain it, and by what means. Lasdon had a lot of it. Wanting a piece of it is prevalent. Suspecting the motives and means of those who have it is pervasive. Though he had some argument with the IRS, and the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation had issues with his Estate, it seems he was a man of merit and earned his estate fairly. He certainly dispensed with a lot of it philanthropically.

As I strolled through the Lasdon Park and Arboretum, I caught myself thinking, "Why can't I have something like this? Why them and not me?" Though too natural, it's odd how envy stirs in the hearts of men and women, even when walking through a garden.

Read the obituary of William S. Lasdon and the notice of Mildred D. Lasdon's death. Learn more about Lasdon's appeal to the IRS which led to a 1948 campaign fund "mix-up" (i.e. scandal) involving the Truman White House and the Democrat National Committee, pyridium, newspaper report of groundbreaking for the Lasdon Biomedical Research Center at Cornell University Medical College, the architectural concept of the Lasdon building at Cornell, an EPA report about Nepera Chemical Company, an article about Nepera Chemical Company and the EPA.

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The Upcoming 77th Annual Savannah Tour of Homes and Gardens

2011-10-08T15:26:00.000-04:00

Fountain in Forsyth Park, Savannah, GA

Would you like to see what grows behind those garden walls in Savannah? It's not too early to mark your calendar for the 77th Annual Savannah Tour of Homes and Gardens scheduled for March 22-25, 2012. The Tour is presented by The Women of Christ Church and Historic Savannah Foundation. Self-guided Home and Garden Walking Tours in select areas of the city are scheduled for each day. Those who care more about gardens than homes can narrow their focus and enjoy Gardener's Walking Tours. Seminars on historic preservation, antiques, furniture creation and preservation, architecture, Savannah history and art are led by experts in their respective fields. If culinary arts interest you, enjoy dining and tea at some of Savannah's most popular establishments. Take a trolley tour of historic Savannah. Enjoy a guided stroll through famous Bonaventure Cemetery. Tickets go on sale to all events December 1, 2011.

To learn more, visit the web site of The Savannah Tour of Homes and Gardens.

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FAQ: What garden tasks should I do in October?

2011-10-08T14:50:00.000-04:00

Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for October organized by region.

Northeast States: Frost is possible. Plant and transplant broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Divide perennials and transplant. Dig tender bulbs to protect over winter. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Pot up spring bulbs for forcing. Prune shrubs that bloomed in late summer. Take hardwood cuttings to root over winter. Fertilize trees and shrubs after they become dormant. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees until ground freezes. Continue garden cleanup. Compost debris. Feed house plants.

Mid-Atlantic States: Frost is possible. Plant and transplant evergreen and broadleaf shrubs and trees, perennials and ground covers. Divide perennials and transplant. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Sow winter annuals, vegetables. Plant winter vegetable sets. Pot up spring bulbs for forcing. Prune shrubs that bloomed in late summer. Feed house plants. Take hardwood cuttings to root over winter. Fertilize trees and shrubs when they become dormant. Continue fall cleanup. Compost debris. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees until ground freezes.

Mid-South States: Early frost is possible. Plant and transplant shrubs and trees, perennials and ground covers. Divide perennials and transplant. Plant container grown mums. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Set out cool season vegetables. Prune shrubs that bloomed in late summer.Take hardwood cuttings for propagation. Continue fall cleanup. Compost debris. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees. Feed house plants. Continue rose care. Continue lawn care. Watch for signs of brown patch in lawn and apply fungicide if necessary.

Lower South and Gulf States: Plant winter-blooming annuals. Plant or transplant trees, shrubs, ground covers, roses, spring and summer blooming perennials, spring blooming bulbs. Lightly prune trees and shrubs, but do not prune spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Remove or prune trees and branches damaged by storms. Take hardwood cuttings for propagation. Continue lawn maintenance. Root prune trees and shrubs that you might wish to move next spring. Order bulbs for fall planting, if you haven't already. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees. Continue rose care. Continue lawn care or begin lawn renovation. Watch for signs of brown patch in lawn and apply fungicide if necessary. Feed house plants.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Early frost is possible. Plant and transplant trees and shrubs, perennials, ground covers. Sow cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crop. Divide perennials. Prune trees and shrubs that bloomed in summer. Continue garden cleanup. Add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Dig and store tender bulbs. Take hardwood cuttings for propagation. Remove dead wood in trees and shrubs. Feed house plants.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Early frost is possible. Plant and transplant trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Continue fall planting, sow cool-season annuals and vegetables. Divide perennials and deadhead perennials. Prune trees and shrubs that bloomed in summer. Clean up garden and add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Dig and store tender bulbs. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant. Apply pre-emergent herbicide to lawns. Renovate lawn, if necessary. Feed house plants.

Pacific Northwest States: Frost is possible. Plant and transplant broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Divide perennials and transplant. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Pot up spring-flowering bulbs for forcing. Sow cold-hardy greens. Prune shrubs and trees that bloomed in late summer. Take hardwood cuttings for propagation. Remove dead wood in trees and shrubs. Continue fall cleanup. Compost debris. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant. Feed house plants.

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FAQ: Is it too late to plant vegetables in my garden?

2011-10-08T13:58:00.000-04:00

Is it too late to plant vegetables in my garden?

If you live in a cold climate, it is probably too late unless you plant your vegetables in a cold frame. A cold frame is like a miniature greenhouse which provides winter protection. If you live in a warm climate (USDA climate zones 8 and warmer), there are many vegetables that can survive the mild winter temperatures. They include arugula, loose-leaf lettuce, beets, bok choy, broccoli, brussels sprouts, carrots, carrots, cauliflower, cilantro, kale, lettuce, mustard greens, onions, parsley, radishes, spinach, sugar snap peas, swiss chard, turnips. That's not a complete list.

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"They'll fit on elves' feet" - Imagining beside Christmas ferns

2011-09-28T22:31:00.000-04:00

My Aunt Ann has always been imaginative. Before I was old enough to go to school, my family would travel a dozen miles or so to visit my maternal grandparents every Monday afternoon. Though I loved the elders very much, it was Ann I wanted to see. She would return from junior high school classes tired and frustrated, but always took time for me. She would make fearsome masks with crayons on brown paper bags. She would point out fairy-rings in the back yard and tell me stories about mysterious convocations. We would kneel down to see tiny pools and rivulets where sprites bathed and played in secret.

As I began writing about one of my favorite ferns, the Christmas fern, I discovered a poem by Maxwell C. Wheat, Jr. that reminded me of Ann's imaginings. A few lines go like this:

“Come see the Christmas stockings,”
Says Grandmother, taking our hands
Leading us to the stream in our back woods

There on the bank
She shows us fronds of ferns lined with leaflets
Each shape like a fat “L”
“They’ll fit on elves’ feet, Nanny.”

Those were the tutorials I loved then and do still. But life is not so easy now. Grown-up life is a frantic chase. To learn, you have to get down on your knees.

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"Who can fear the winter stern while still there grows the Christmas fern."

2011-09-28T22:00:00.000-04:00

"When frost has clad the dripping cliffs
With fluted columns, crystal clear,
And million-flaked the feathery snow
Has shrouded close the dying year;
Beside the rock, where'er we turn,
Behold, there waves the Christmas fern.

No shivering frond that shuns the blast
Sways on its slender chaffy stem;
Full-veined and lusty green it stands,
Of all the wintry woods the gem.
Our spirits rise when we discern
The pennons of the Christmas fern.

With holly and the running pine
Then let its fronds in wreaths appear,
'Tis summer's fairest tribute given.
To grace our merry Yuletide cheer.
Ah, who can fear the winter stern
While still there grows the Christmas fern."
-W. N. Clute

People of science are often people of art. How can one delve into the wonders of creation without being astonished by the order and beauty? Willard Nelson Clute (1869-1850) was one of them. He was born in the village of Painted Post, Steuben County, New York. The name of the village comes from a painted totem that early explorers found at a river junction. The rivers, creeks and mountains nearby must have inspired his love of nature. He pursued his passion. Clute founded the American Fern Society in 1893. In 1928, he became professor of botany at Butler University, Indianapolis, and curator of the botanical garden. He authored over a dozen botanical books, some of which his wife, Ida, illustrated.

In Our ferns in their haunts: a guide to all the native species, Clute waxed poetic about the Christmas fern. Who could resist? As he noted, "To the hunter, the trapper and the rambler in the winter woods, the Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) is a familiar species. In summer it is not especially noticeable, but in the snowbound season, the cheerful, fresh-looking fronds are sure to attract the eye."

They did attract the eye, and were extensively harvested for Christmas greenery arrangements. Apparently all the collecting did little to diminish the numbers of the Christmas fern. It is widely distributed throughout its native range, from Quebec to north Florida and to eastern Texas. Because it is so robust, gardeners find it to be easy to grow.

Its botanical name, Polystichum acrostichoides (pronounced pol-IS-tick-um ak-ruh-stik-OY-deez), refers to the many rows of spores, and the fact that it reminded someone of another genus of ferns, Acrostichum. The seldom-used name, Nephrodium acrostichoides, is synonymous.

Christmas fern is hardy from USDA climate zone 3 to 9. It prefers well-drained, humusy soil like you'd find above creek banks and on woodland floors. Shady locations under hardwood trees are best, so it's an excellent choice for shade gardening. Soil pH may range from 5.6 to 7.5. Once established, it is somewhat drought tolerant and should be considered for xeriscaping. Being a fern, it is deer resistant.

I can't imagine why tilling such a site would be necessary. It's always good to take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Follow the recommendations.

Christmas ferns grow up to 24 inches high and 12 inches to 18 inches across. Dig planting holes about 12 inches apart. The holes should be no deeper than that of the rootballs. Water the plants in their pots, then plant them, watering more as you go. When planted, the tops of the rootballs should be visible; do not bury them under soil.

If you haven't already come to appreciate the beauty of Christmas ferns, I'm sure you will. Good cheer!

Read more about Christmas ferns.

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FAQ: Is it too late to plant perennials in zone 6?

2011-09-26T16:03:00.002-04:00

I live in USDA climate zone 6. Is it too late to plant perennials?

It is not too late (end of September) to plant cold-hardy perennials in zone 6, particularly if they are container grown. Plants that have been produced in a greenhouse may not become hardened-off before first frost, so you could see some tissue damage. But it would probably be only cosmetic. An insulating layer of organic mulch around the plant should be helpful.

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World's first blue-pigmented rose!

2011-09-26T15:55:00.000-04:00

You rose lovers will get a kick out of this!

NEW YORK, Sept. 14, 2011 /PRNewswire/ -- Beginning in early November, Suntory will for the first time, introduce their internationally renowned blue rose APPLAUSE in North America. With nearly 100% blue-pigmented petals, blue rose APPLAUSE is the world's first blue rose, a technically sophisticated and wondrously stunning flower with a delicate blue color. Read more.

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Simplify your garden. Simplify your life.

2011-09-19T13:23:00.000-04:00

Gardening and simplicity aren't usually associated, except in the minds of those who don't actually garden. We gardeners have a whole lot of work to do, but there's so much else outside the garden to do in life. Is there a way to simplify the garden to make life easier? The answer is "yes." But it takes planning. Gardening requires work; no doubt about it. We can spend hours deciding what to plant, where to plant, more hours keeping insects, diseases and weeds at bay, and even more time moving and transplanting, trying to find the right locations and combinations that work.

But, when it really comes down to it, gardening can be a simple thing. You do not need costly tools or much time to dig a hole. Plant a seed and wait for it to grow. Seems cheap and simple. But nature isn't what it's supposed to be, and we have our own ideas. So things become very difficult.

Nature drops seeds in the most inconvenient places. Acorns sprouting near houses grow into trees that ruin foundations. Jumanji vines grow where they are not wanted. Edible weeds aren't appreciated at the dining table. (Dad, these look like dandelions.) If we don't do something about the rampant growth, we might be visited by the municipality or home-owners association. It's all too much!

What to do? Simplify!

I heard someone remark, "After years of digging, planting, pruning, watering, composting, fertilizing, weeding, mowing, digging, planting, pruning, watering, composting, fertilizing, weeding, mowing, I'd prefer to move to a smaller place in the city about three floors up from the ground (with a few pots of herbs in my window) where I could walk out below and crush the weeds growing in cracks beneath my foot."

Small gardens are about that easy. Larger gardens take more effort, but it is possible to simplify them. If gardening is costing you dearly in money, time and effort, it may be that you aren't doing it in the most efficient way. Taking the right steps at the right time with the right tools can make your life significantly easier.

For example, you might want to consider cutting down on pesticide use. Not only will you save time and money, but you will help improve the environment while crossing another chore off your list. On the other hand, quick walk along the fence line with a herbicide sprayer is easier than whacking with a tool.

Instead of buying cheap tools, spend more for durable ones. Use the right tool for the job.

Simplifying will involve changing what you plant in your garden. Hybrid tea roses require much more time, effort and money than low maintenance landscape roses that are easy to grow. Plant resistant species rather than insect/disease magnets. (Plant insect magnets away from your garden to distract and keep them busy elsewhere.)

Reduce the size of your lawn. Ground cover plants usually require less effort than grass. Whether for sun or shade, dry or moist soils, there are many suitable ones.

Though apple and peach trees require a great deal of care, other fruit trees like pears, figs and cherry trees do not need so much. There many ways to reduce the time and money you put in the garden. Blackberries, raspberries, blueberries and others may or may not do well in your area. Consult with an expert at your nearest Cooperative Extension Service for good advice.

Some vegetables and herbs are easy to grow while others are not. Grow the easy ones. Sweet potatoes, red potatoes, peppers, broccoli, collards, okra and swiss chard are a snap. Cherry tomatoes are easier to grow than the whoppers. Mint, oregano, basil and italian parsley are simple. Learn from your own experience and that of others. If you have to work too hard for success, it might be easier and cheaper in the long run to buy the difficult ones at your nearby farmers market.

Plant more perennials, but fewer species. You can simplify by cutting down on the number of species of plants that you grow, but grow enough of each to fill the designated space. Instead of three daylilies, three irises, three phlox, three salvia and three dianthus, grow fifteen daylilies. To keep it interesting, plant five of three different varieties of daylily. Focus on a few plants that you enjoy growing, are good at growing, that require less work, and then grow lots of them.

Develop a landscape plan. Your plan can be simple or complex, but the point is to make sense of your landscape and focus your efforts. A plan will help you prioritize your work. Even if you have to put some things off for awhile, they will get done eventually. This step by itself reduces the stress of deciding what to do next. Divide your landscape into spaces for specific purposes: vegetable garden, fruit garden, shade garden, entertaining, etc. Decide where you want the spaces to be, how large, and how convenient to your home. Of course, some things will be pre-determined. If you live on a wooded lot, your shade garden may be larger than if your yard was devoid of trees. Slope and soil conditions will be determining factors.

Always consider future maintenance, whether you are planning the planting areas, patio or deck. If anything requires too much work, you'll probably put it off until a big and costly solution is required to fix it. A little care now and then will save you lots of time and money in the future.

Consider the water. Unless you own a private well, irrigation can be expensive. Not only that, watering can be restricted by your state or municipality during times of drought. Xeriscaping should be at the top of your list of possibilities. Xeriscaping describes a manner of gardening that reduces or eliminates the need for supplemental watering. It involves selecting plants that require less water, devising methods to capture water for later use, and installing very efficient irrigation systems. If more water is needed, consider systems that can be controlled accurately. Dragging a hose around from place to place is not something you want to do often.

Use lots of organic mulch. Mulch made of hay, wood chips, straw and compost suppresses weeds, conserves water and recycles organic material back into the soil. In the last century, Ruth Stout, the "no dig-dutchess", was considered the mother of mulching. She authored several "no work" gardening books. Obtain copies and study them carefully.

Wood chips, pine straw mulch and landscaping rocks can also be substituted for grass, requiring less effort and cost while keeping things looking natural.

Install edging. Edging defines the contours of your planting beds, helps to keep mulch in them and grass out. Permanent edging also adds visual interest. I highly recommend steel edging. In lieu of permanent edging, a bedding plow can do a good job of defining the contours, but with a little more effort.

Select low-maintenance furnishings. Cast aluminum chairs, settees and tables can be quite beautiful and will provide years of service. Recycled poly lumber is a new material used for outdoor furniture. It should last a very long time. Teak and cedar woods don't last as long, but will surprise you with their longevity. In addition, they weather well to a natural patina. Occasional weatherproofing may be necessary, depending upon the material chosen. Cushions and fabric umbrellas may need to be moved indoors for protection during winter months.

Choose low-maintenance garden art. As lovely as they are, fountains and water features will require a lot more upkeep than sculptures and container gardens. Birdbaths are very attractive and easier to maintain than fountains.

Simplify with shrubs and small trees. If you want color, texture and diversity in your garden, plant shrubs and small, ornamental trees. There are many excellent ones that are handsome and easy to care for. They flower with different colors in different seasons, so you can have bloom almost year around. They provide an array of heights, foliage shapes and textures. Consider their mature sizes. Avoid those that require lots of pruning, and those that drop viable, enthusiastic seeds everywhere. Include them in mixed borders with perennials, ground covers and a few seasonal annuals for POP.

Do small, simple things while they are still small and simple. It's far easier and less expensive to pull a small, seedling tree up by hand than to remove a 30' tree from next to the house. Finally, there may be some tasks you can't get around to doing. Let them go for awhile. There is no reason to fret yourself into a lather with your garden. That's not what a garden is for. Life can be simpler.

If you would like to share your thoughts, please contact me or comment below.

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Results of Community Poll Ending 16 September, 2011

2011-09-16T15:22:00.000-04:00

Our Community Poll ending 16 September, 2011 asked the question: How much more are you willing to spend for organic foods?

28% of respondents said, I'm not willing to spend any more.
15% of respondents said, Up to 10% more.
21% of respondents said, Up to 20% more.
15% of respondents said, Up to 30% more.
7% of respondents said, Up to 50% more.
14% of respondents said, I'll buy organic regardless of the price.

The largest single block of respondents is unwilling to spend any more. But, clearly, the results indicate that 72% of respondents are willing to pay more for organic foods. How much more is the question. Nevertheless, this indicates a growing trend among American consumers. Farmers should consider it carefully.

You're invited to participate in our current goGardenNow Community Poll which asks the question, Should the ornamental plants you purchase be raised organically? You'll find the poll in the right-hand side-bar.

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Plant Bulbs Now For Spring Splendor

2011-09-16T11:41:00.001-04:00

Your yard will make you proud with eye-popping splendor if you plant spring-flowering bulbs this fall. Bulbs are easy to grow, and most are perennial, increasing in beauty year after year. Burst out of those gray days of winter with gorgeous blankets of color.

Read more about fall bulbs.

Anemones: Born Of The Wind.
Bluebells Seem Like Fairy Gifts.
Oh, Look. Crocuses!
Fragrant, Full-Bodied Hyacinths.
A Host Of Daffodils.
Enjoy A Multitude Of Muscari.
Tulips! A Spring Rainbow Of Colors.
Fall Bulbs For Warm Climates.
Marshall's Answers to FAQs On Bulbs.

Return to Bulbs at goGardenNow.com.

FAQ: How and when should I prune over-grown holly bushes?

2011-09-15T15:00:00.000-04:00

I have some holly bushes that have grown too large. They almost cover the windows. How and when should I prune them?

You are probably tempted to prune your shrubs to just below the window sill, and to do it now. The problem is two-fold. Firstly, heavy pruning will stimulate re-growth of new tissue that will not have time to harden off before cold weather arrives. Therefore the tender growth will be damaged by frost. Heavy pruning should be done in spring after danger of frost is past.

Secondly, pruning to below the window sill will not be enough. Your shrubs may half-way cover the windows again before the first growing season is over. They may not look good, either. The best practice is to cut them quite low, perhaps only 10 inches to 12 inches high. New growth should flourish. Trim to improve the shape in late summer.

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FAQ: What garden tasks should I do in September?

2011-09-06T16:00:00.000-04:00

Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for September organized by region.

Northeast States: Frost in September is possible. Plant broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Divide perennials and transplant. Plant container grown mums. Transfer herbs to pots for use indoors. Move tender perennials to the greenhouse or cold frame. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Sow cold-hardy greens. Thinking ahead, root prune plants that you wish to move next spring. Take cuttings to root over winter in the cold frame. Fertilize fall annuals, house plants and container gardens. Continue fall cleanup. Compost debris. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees. Be aware of possible frost, and be prepared to protect plants if necessary. Take house plants indoors.

Mid-Atlantic States: Plant evergreen and broadleaf shrubs and trees, perennials and ground covers. Divide perennials and transplant. Plant container grown mums. Transfer herbs to pots for use indoors. Move tender perennials to the greenhouse or cold frame. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Sow winter annuals, vegetables. Plant winter vegetable sets. Lightly shape shrubs. Thinking ahead, root prune plants that you wish to move next spring. Take cuttings to root over winter in the cold frame. Fertilize fall annuals, house plants and container gardens. Continue fall cleanup. Prepare beds for spring planting. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees. Continue rose care. Compost debris. Fertilize plants with bone meal.

Mid-South States: Plant shrubs and trees, perennials and ground covers. Divide perennials and transplant. Plant container grown mums. Transfer herbs to pots for use indoors. Move tender perennials to the greenhouse or cold frame. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Set out cool season vegetables. Lightly shape shrubs. Fertilize house plants and container gardens. Begin fall cleanup. Compost debris. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees. Continue rose care. Continue lawn care or begin lawn renovation. Fertilize plants with bone meal.

Lower South and Gulf States: Plant winter-blooming annuals. Plant or transplant spring and summer blooming perennials, bulbs. Lightly prune trees and shrubs, but do not prune spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Remove or prune trees and branches damaged by storms. Continue lawn maintenance. Root prune trees and shrubs that you might wish to move next spring. Order bulbs for fall planting, if you haven't already. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees. Continue rose care. Continue lawn care or begin lawn renovation.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Plant container-grown trees and shrubs, perennials, ground covers. Sow cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crop. Divide perennials. Lightly prune trees and shrubs. Add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Order bulbs for fall planting. Move herbs from garden to pots for winter use indoors. Remove dead, diseased and damaged limbs/branches from trees and shrubs. Fertilize plants with bone meal. Take house plants indoors. Apply pre-emergent herbicide to lawns.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Begin fall planting, sow cool-season annuals and vegetables. Sow cool season perennials in flats. Divide perennials and deadhead perennials. Lightly prune shrubs and trees, with the exception of spring-blooming shrubs and trees. Fertilize annuals, house plants and and container gardens. Clean up garden and add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Order bulbs for fall planting. Remove dead, diseased and damaged limbs/branches from trees and shrubs. Fertilize plants with bone meal. Apply pre-emergent herbicide to lawns. Renovate lawn, if necessary.

Pacific Northwest States: Plant broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Divide perennials and transplant. Plant container grown mums. Transfer herbs to pots for use indoors. Move tender perennials to the greenhouse or cold frame. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Sow cold-hardy greens. Thinking ahead, root prune plants that you wish to move next spring. Take cuttings to root over winter in the cold frame. Fertilize fall annuals, house plants and container gardens. Continue fall cleanup. Compost debris. Prune dead, diseased and damaged limbs and branches from trees and shrubs. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees.

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A bad job of laying sod.

2011-09-03T16:06:00.000-04:00

I came across an example at a recreational facility of how NOT to lay grass sod. Frankly, I've seen more bad examples during my meanderings than good ones. At this site, it looked almost like the sod tiles had been thrown off a moving pickup truck and left where they landed. (Click on the images below to enlarge them.) First, I noticed that sod tiles were overlapping.

Overlapping sod tiles.

Second, I saw that there were lots of little gaps between tiles.


Little gaps.

There were BIG gaps, too!


Big gaps.

Third, irrigation control boxes were set too much beneath grade.

Irrigation control box set too much below grade.

Fourth, edges were untrimmed and unpatched.


Untrimmed edges.

Finally, the sod was left unrolled.

Needs to be rolled.

A good sod job begins with good preparation. Old sod and weeds may need to be killed with an appropriate herbicide. Glyphosate is a good one. It can be applied by the homeowner, is effective, and doesn't persist in the soil.

When grass and weeds have died, the site should be tilled (if necessary), graded and leveled. Foreign and hard objects like rocks, dried dirt clods, building materials, and roots should be removed so that the sod roots can make good contact with the soil. If tree roots can not be removed, they should be covered with soil and the soil leveled.

Irrigation control boxes and sprinkler heads should be carefully placed so that they will be at soil level in order to avoid being overgrown by sod, or being clipped by mower blades.

Sod should be obtained just before installation, and be kept moist and green until installed.

Sod tile runs (courses) should be straight. Tiles should be staggered like bricks laid in a "running bond."

Gaps must be patched. Large gaps can be plugged with small pieces of sod. Large gaps can be filled with portions of sod tile cut to shape.

Sod should be neatly trimmed along walks, drives, curbs and planting beds. Lawn edgers are effective.

After the sod is laid, it must be rolled so that it makes good contact with the soil. It doesn't take much to rent a sod roller. They come in different sizes. Some can be attached to riding lawn mowers and pulled. Others come with handles, and can be pushed.

Sod rollers.

Adequate irrigation is essential. The sod must not be allowed to stress due to dry conditions, nor should the soil be kept soggy.

Laying sod is hard work, but that is no excuse for a slip-shod job.

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Japanese Painted Fern - Like Michinoku Cloth

2011-08-30T16:50:00.002-04:00

Michinoku no
Shinobu moji-zuri
Tare yue ni
Midare-some nishi
Ware naranaku ni.

AH! why does love distract my thoughts,
Disordering my will!
I'm like the pattern on the cloth
Of Michinoku hill,—
All in confusion still.
-Kawara no Sadaijin (822 - 895)

Shinobu mojizuri is an ancient dyeing process, probably originating from Michinoku region in Japan, in which plants are pressed and rubbed into silk cloth creating an intricate pattern. The poet's simile expresses well the indelible, painful impression that love makes on the heart.

It occurs to me that the intricate pattern and shades of Japanese Painted Fern (Athyrium niponicum var. pictum) must resemble a Michinoku print. Emerging fronds are metallic gray with reddish to bluish blush. Mature fronds hold their color well and contrast nicely with the emerging ones. This fern forms very attractive clumps from 12 inches to 18 inches in height, and as wide.

For its beauty and adaptability, the fern was named Perennial Plant of the Year winner for 2004 by the Perennial Plant Association. Many gardeners find it irresistable.

Japanese Painted Fern goes dormant in winter, nevertheless it is reliably cold hardy in USDA climate zones 4 to 9. It performs best in partial shade to full shade, however, coloration is best in light shade. Some gardeners report success planting in full sun, but growers in hot climates should definitely provide adequate shade. Slightly moist soil is essential, though care must be taken to avoid over-watering. Japanese Painted Fern doesn't like soggy soil. Recommended pH is 6.1 to 7.5.

You'll be pleased to know that Japanese Painted Fern has no serious insect or disease problems, and it's deer resistant.

Before planting, take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing. The results will specify any necessary soil amendments.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 10 inches deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compost may be incorporated into the soil. Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4 inches to 6 inches of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 18 inches to 24 inches apart. Small plants may be planted closer together. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Water the plants in the pots, then drain. Place the ferns into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1 inch deep.

Shade gardeners will love Japanese Painted Ferns. Of course, they should be included in Japanese gardens and in fern collections. Their beauty is irresistible.

Here is another English translation of Kawara no Sadaijin's poem, number 14 of A Hundred Verses from Old Japan (The Hyakunin-isshu), tr. by William N. Porter, [1909].

Like the printed leaves of ferns

On Michinoku cloth,

Who has imposed on me

This affliction, but you.

But I can’t resist it.

-Kawara no Sadaijin (822 - 895)

Learn more about Kawara no Sadaijin, or return to Ferns at goGardenNow.com.

FAQ: How can I grow trumpet creeper vine, without it growing on the house?

2011-08-29T13:03:00.001-04:00

I want to grow trumpet creeper, but don't want it climbing on the house. Do you have any suggestions?

Trumpet Creeper (Campsis radicans) is a useful vine with many admirable characteristics. It is a native plant, grows quickly, controls erosion, is insect and disease resistant, produces stunning flowers and attracts hummingbirds. But it can be a nuisance when grown on the house.

Aerial roots that help it climb can stick to the building and cause damage. The sheer weight of a mature vine can cause structural problems. Humidity that builds up under the vine can damage the walls. I recommend you grow it as a standard tree form. Choose a site where you can view it and enjoy the hummingbirds. Build a durable support. A steel pole with welded steel arms at the top and set in concrete isn't out of the question. Plant the vine next to the support. Attach it to the support with plastic tape. When the vine reaches the top of the support, pinch out the tip of the vine to stimulate lateral growth along the trunk, but retain only the young vines emerging from the top. Within two or three years, you will have a small tree that is easily maintained by occasional pruning.

This same method can be used for growing wisteria.

Return to Campsis at goGardenNow.com.

Drivin' Me To Milledgeville, or Day Of The Locusts at Lockerly Arboretum

2011-08-27T17:10:00.005-04:00

From the time I was a little argumentative kid, my mother used to protest, "You're driving me to Milledgeville!" That was a common expression of mothers in Georgia. Milledgeville was the home of Central State Hospital, opened in 1842 as Georgia’s first public psychiatric hospital. The saying wasn't meant to derogate patients; if we didn't have family there, at least we knew someone who knew someone there. It's just that no one wanted to go for more than a brief cordial visit. Being driven to Milledgeville meant something more serious. John Quattlebaum (another native Savannahian) and I waxed nostalgic about our mothers' sayings as he steered us toward Lockerly Arboretum in Milledgeville.

When we stepped out of the pickup, we thought it was unfortunate that some factory was situated so nearby to disturb the tranquility. The sound was like severe tinnitus in both ears, or the ambient background noise of a Kurosawa movie turned up loud. It could drive one crazy.

The Lockerly Arboretum is situated on the site of an old plantation formerly known as Rose Hill. It was so named because of an abundance of Cherokee roses that grew there. After the property changed hands a few times, a house fire and rebuilding, it was purchased by Mr. Edward J. Grassmann of Elizabeth, New Jersey. Grassman renovated the house, landscaped the property and operated it as a guest house for corporate visitors of the American Industrial Clay Company. He established the Lockerly Arboretum Foundation in 1965 "to provide outstanding ecological, horticultural and historical education in order to promote preservation and stewardship of the environment."

The English China Clays company bought the house later. The interest in clay was due to generous natural deposits of kaolin in the area. In 1998, the house was obtained by the Arboretum Foundation and opened to the public.

The arboretum consists of fifty acres with woodland, pond and various plant collections joined by nature trails and drives. Plant collections include azaleas and rhododendrons, maples, viburnum, conifers, aquatics and bog plants. Its location, straddling two climate zones, enhances the plant diversity. Lockerly is home to two of Georgia's Champion Trees: Cedar Elm (Ulmus crassifolia) and Small-leaf Viburnum (V. obovatum).

Following a map provided, we began with the woodland nature trail. It sounded as though the factory was just behind a hill. We immediately noted the proliferation of native and non-native species such as Partridgeberry (Mitchella repens), Asiatic Jasmine (Trachelospermum asiaticum), Christmas fern (Polystichum acrosticoides), Japanese Marlberry (Ardisia japonica) and East Indian Holly fern (Arachniodes simplicior). Other personal favorites included Wild Gingers (Hexastylis arifolia and H. shuttleworthii), Variegated Solomon's Seal (Polygonatum odoratum 'Variegatum'), Indian Pink (Spigelia marilandica), Mayapple (Podophyllum peltatum), Bigleaf Magnolia (Magnolia macrophylla) and Devil's Walking Stick (Aralia spinosa). We visited in early summer, so most of the rhododendrons were past bloom, but some rhododendron flowers were lingering along with a few spider azaleas. One of the highlights for me was finding a Yellow Passionflower (Passiflora lutea), a vine native to the eastern and southern U.S., but somewhat uncommon.

As we walked deeper into the forest, it seemed that the sound of the factory was before, behind and on both sides. It dawned on us that we were hearing cicadas (sometimes called "locusts"), and, sure enough, cicada shells were everywhere. Naturally, Bob Dylan's Day Of The Locusts came to mind.

And the locusts sang, yeah, it give me a chill
Oh, the locusts sang such a sweet melody
Oh, the locusts sang their high whinning trill
Yeah, the locusts sang and they were singing for me.

It was a high whinning trill, but not a sweet melody. Maddening, perhaps. The rest of our visit was accompanied by locusts.

Before we had walked far, my camera batteries gave up the ghost. So, many of the photographs featured here were taken by John Quattlebaum with his trusty Nikon.

Unfortunately, the pond was nearly empty of water, but boggy enough for Water Horsetail (Equisetum fluviatile), Elephant Ears (Colocasia spp.), Japanese Iris (I. ensata), and Jewel Weed (Impatiens capensis). If filled, the pond might have been home for some native waterfowl.

Though not extensive, the Maple Collection included some decent representatives along with a sizable Acer palmatum dissectum. Though not a maple, a Chinese Parasol tree (Firmiana simplex) drew our attention.

The Viburnum Collection lacked bloom, and some shrubs needed attention. The Conifer Collection is small, but included some of my favorites such as Cryptomeria japonica 'Knaptonensis', C. japonica 'Globosa Nana', Chamaecypris obtusa 'Crippsi', C. pisifera, and Deodar cedars (Cedrus deodora).

With the cicadas still ringing in our ears, I was in the mood to visit Andalusia, Flannery O'Connor's Milledgeville home. O'Connor was another native Savannahian that I admire. But the afternoon was wearing, and we needed to get back to Statesboro. We'll save Andalusia for another day.

The Lockerly Arboretum grounds are open Monday through Friday: 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.; Saturdays 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. It's closed on Sundays. Lockerly Hall may or may not be open for a walk-through when you visit. Guided tours are conducted Monday, Tuesday and Wednesdays.

View Larger Map

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Hunting Galium, Waldmeister, Woodruff

2011-08-19T14:53:00.001-04:00

I asked Kyle Hancock, professor of music at Georgia Southern University, opera principal (standing), baritone, and friend, whether he could tell me anything about Johann (II) Strauss's operetta, Waldmeister. Actually, the libretto was written by Gustav Davis. Strauss composed the music. Kyle could not, having never performed or studied it. Perhaps with the libretto in hand I could study it myself. So he gave me the phone number of Glendower Jones, a very knowledgeable music purveyor he knows, but Mr. Jones had never seen the libretto during his many years of purveying. Even if I had it, I would barely know what to do with it, since I struggle with German. I know that's right because I finally found a copy of the Waldmeister libretto online, and reading it was too laborious. I should have paid a little attention in college during German 101.

My search was motivated by the desire to learn as much as I could about the herb, Galium (pronounced GAL-ee-um) and particularly the species odoratum (odor-AY-tum). It's a short, shade-loving perennial that is native to forests in Europe, North Africa and Western Asia. Galium refers to "milk" and odoratum means "fragrant". Sometimes the botanical name Asperula (pronounced as-PAIR-uh-luh, meaning "rough") is used. Galium is also known as Waldmeister (Woodmaster), Sweet Woodruff, Sweet-scented Bedstraw, Our Lady's Bedstraw, Our Lady's Lace, Curd-Wort and Quinsy-Wort. Of course, I wanted to know why the plant was given all those names. But, to begin, I thought that by studying the libretto, I should better understand how the herb took root in German culture. The best I could find was a synopsis of Waldmeister at Boosey and Hawkes. In short, it's a little longer than this:

A happy hunting party of woodsmen, a beautiful opera singer and her boyfriend are caught in the forest during a rain storm. They find shelter in a millhouse and change their clothes. Chief forester Tymoleon surprises them, intending to teach them manners. But the boyfriend learns that Tymoleon has fallen in love with fair Freda, the daughter of the very person that tipped him off to the woodsmen, et alia in the millhouse. Everyone knows somehow that Tymoleon is a womanizer, and is not right for Freda. They plot to teach him a lesson. After a crazy engagement ceremony, celebrated with a wild lime-blossom tea, everything goes topsy-turvy. Nobody ends up with the one they came with, and "the mystery of the ‘black woodruff’ is unexpectedly disclosed."

Sounds like a typical comic opera. It titillated audiences in the 1890s as the prospect does now. But, of course, that raised more questions for me than it answered. What was in the lime-blossom tea? What was the mystery of the black woodruff? Is there a play on words with "woodmaster" and "woodruff?" Is the Waldmeister a ruffian? Is the Waldmeister Tymoleon, the herb, something or someone else? Here again, if I could read German without a dictionary, I might figure it out.

I've read that Johannes Brahms, a friend of Strauss, admired the operetta. But, alas, his endorsement wasn't enough. Waldmeister is rarely performed nowadays. The Waldmeister Overture is about all you'll hear.

I did find a couple of recordings of Die ganze Nacht durchschwärmt.

Laying aside my search for meaning in the operetta, I turned to "Woodruff." Recalling that I once knew a man named Woodruff, I decided to ferret-out its origin, and soon learned that the surname, Woodruff, is derived from "wood-reeve", the keeper of a forest and its denizens. AHA! So this says something about the plant, the operetta, and might hold a key to both.

On to the Bedstraw appellation. I don't know whether the name, Sweetscented Bedstraw, preceded Our Lady's Bedstraw, or if it was the other way around. At any rate, Galium was certainly used as bedstraw because of its fragrance. Of course, the pleasant fragrance was much needed in a house before the advent of modern conveniences and hygiene. I can barely imagine how badly homes must have smelled in medieval times when animals lived in or under the house, chamber pots were kept under the bed, floors might have been carpeted with rushes and matted with years of grime, food scraps, excrement and spit.

Galium was called Our Lady's Bedstraw because of a common practice among many Christian communities to associate some places, things and their attributes to Christian themes. It was a teaching aid to surround themselves, young and old, with reminders of their faith. Legend had it that the Blessed Virgin Mary used the plant as bedding for herself and The Christ Child on Christmas Night. I suppose Galium was called Our Lady's Lace because of the many small white flowers.

As I mentioned before, Galium refers to "milk", and I learned that one of the species, because of some chemical property, was used to curdle milk in the process of cheese-making. Thus it was sometimes called Curd-Wort.

With the possible exception of Curd-wort, Quinsy-Wort may be the least poetic of its names. Quinsy is a disease of the throat that can afflict teens and young adults. It resembles tonsillitis, but has much more serious consequences...sometimes fatal. Thankfully, it is rare. But Galium was once used to treat it.

Arguably, the most popular use for Galium odoratum is as an essential ingredient in Maywine (Mai Wein). Maywine is available commercially. The basic recipe involves soaking the crushed herb and fruit in white Rhine table wine. I don't know how long it takes, and I've never tasted it. But I understand that the flavor is one of new-mown hay. I like the smell of new-mown hay, but I don't know that I'd want to drink it. The flavor is said to be bitter. It must be an acquired taste. In Germany, woodruff is also added to smoking tobacco, beer, and to foods from meats to desserts.

It surprised me to learn that an active property in Galium (the one that imparts aroma and taste) is coumarin. Coumarin is also found in other plants, and in some natural flavoring agents. By a process involving fermentation, coumarin can be rendered very toxic and used as an effective rat poison. By the way, the same is used as an anti-coagulant for the treatment of coronary diseases. Have you ever walked through a field of new-mown hay and enjoyed the fragrance? If the dust didn't set you to sneezing, it was the coumarin you smelled.

Given the ingenuity of Davis and Strauss, I expect that there are all kinds of allusions to the names and properties of Galium in their Waldmeister operetta. In fact, their composition might explain everything, but I don't know because I didn't pay attention in German 101!

Galium odoratum grows 12 inches to 20 inches tall. Dark green leaves are simple, lance-shaped, smooth, and arranged in whorls around the stem. Small white flowers are borne above it in late spring or early summer. It prefers slightly moist soil that is high in organic matter with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.5. It's hardy in USDA climate zones 4 through 8.

There are many good reasons to include it in your garden. Galium tends to colonize an area (perhaps that's where the name, Woodmaster, comes from), so it makes a fine ground cover in shade where many other plants won't grow. Collectors of medicinal plants will want it represented in their landscapes. It's perfect for the shady spot in your herb or fragrance garden. Marian gardens and those with musical themes wouldn't be complete without it.

To prepare your shade garden for Galium, take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust the pH and nutrient levels according to instructions. Don't bother tilling unless the soil is compacted, which is unlikely with humusy soils. If tilling is required, cultivate to a depth of 12 inches. Add peat and compost if necessary. Water the young plants in their pots, remove from them from the pots, and space them 12 inches to 18 inches apart. Insert them into the soil with the top of the root ball at the same level as the native soil. Water again. Apply mulch, but not more than 3 inches deep.

There is something restful and peaceful about a shaded garden, as James Whitcomb Riley expressed so well.

Out at Woodruff Place--afar
From the city's glare and jar,
With the leafy trees, instead
Of the awnings, overhead;
With the shadows cool and sweet,
For the fever of the street;
With the silence, like a prayer,
Breathing round us everywhere.

Gracious anchorage, at last,
From the billows of the vast
Tide of life that comes and goes,
Whence and where nobody knows--
Moving, like a skeptic's thought,
Out of nowhere into naught.
Touch and tame us with thy grace,
Placid calm of Woodruff Place!

Weave a wreath of beechen leaves
For the brow that throbs and grieves
O'er the ledger, bloody-lined,
'Neath the sun-struck window-blind!
Send the breath of woodland bloom
Through the sick man's prison room,
Till his old farm-home shall swim
Sweet in mind to hearten him!

Out at Woodruff Place the Muse
Dips her sandal in the dews,
Sacredly as night and dawn
Baptize lilied grove and lawn:
Woody path, or paven way--
She doth haunt them night and day,--
Sun or moonlight through the trees,
To her eyes, are melodies.

Swinging lanterns, twinkling clear
Through night-scenes, are songs to her--
Tinted lilts and choiring hues,
Blent with children's glad halloos;
Then belated lays that fade
Into midnight's serenade--
Vine-like words and zithern-strings
Twined through ali her slumberings.

Blessed be each hearthstone set
Neighboring the violet!
Blessed every rooftree prayed
Over by the beech's shade!
Blessed doorway, opening where
We may look on Nature--there
Hand to hand and face to face--
Storied realm, or Woodruff Place.
-June At Woodruff

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Federal DOT regulators proposal to require farm tractor drivers to have commercial drivers licenses has been withdrawn

2011-08-17T10:54:00.000-04:00

I posted a blog article on 12 August about Washington Regulators Stirring Up More Trouble For Farmers. I had learned about it that day by reading an online news article. I contacted my U.S. Senators and Congressman to protest. A staffer from Congressman Barrow's (GA) office called me yesterday to say that the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration, under the U.S. DOT, had withdrawn its proposal in the face of massive protests.

No thanks to me, for the proposal had been withdrawn on 10 August. Read the General Notice: Regulatory Guidance: Applicability of the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Regulations to Operators of Certain Farm Vehicles and Off-Road Agricultural Equipment.

I thank the staffer from Mr. Barrow's office for taking the time to call, and the many who protested the absurd proposal since it was submitted for public comment. If you'd like to keep track of what your federal regulators are up to, visit Regulations.gov and stay informed. (Be warned, a little time spent reading government regulations may cause your eyes to roll back in your head and you to slide comatose under your desk.)

Return to goGardenNow.com.

The Burgeoning Increase In Farmers Markets

2011-08-16T15:37:00.001-04:00

According to results released this month in the U.S. Department of Agriculture's 2011 National Farmers Market Directory, more than 1000 new Farmers Markets have opened across the country since the 2010 Market Directory was released. That is an impressive increase of 17% in one year. Some states enjoyed an increase of more than 30%. Certainly, with the economy continuing in its stagnation, people are looking for ways to save on their grocery bill. Farmers Markets allow us to do that by cutting out one or two middle-men, and sometimes we get to buy directly from the local farmer!

For more information, read the USDA News Release, or search for Farmers Markets in your area.

Return to goGardenNow.com.

Frequently asked questions about muscadine grapes.

2011-08-16T14:30:00.000-04:00

As some of my blog readers may know, I own a muscadine grape vineyard. I've also produced three Youtube videos about how to prune muscadine vines, so I get a lot of questions on the subject from viewers. Here is one.

I recently discovered a muscadine vine at the edge of the woods around my yard. The vine is growing as high as 15 feet into the trees. I can't see much fruit, maybe 3 or 4 grapes so far. Should I try to cut it back this fall or in the spring? If so, how much should I prune from it? There's also a lot of vines in the back of my house in the trees as high as 20 or 30 ft .I don't see any grapes on them. Are they needed for the others to produce? Thank you so much for any information you can give me.

Some muscadines are perfect-flowered, meaning that they have both male and female flower parts. Therefore they pollinate themselves and produce fruit. Other muscadines are pistillate, meaning that they only have female flower parts. They require the pollen from a perfect-flowered variety to produce fruit.

If a vine has only a few flowers, it could be that it is pistillate and a pollinator is not near enough to share much pollen. Or it could mean that the vine is perfect-flowered, but growing in too much shade. Vines growing in shade don't produce as much fruit.

If a vine bears no fruit, it is probably pistillate and needs a pollinator.

I doubt that pruning would help much because the vine should be grown on a trellis. In addition, it probably isn't getting much sun since it is growing at the edge of the woods.

If you like the characteristics of the fruit, I recommend that you attempt to reproduce the vine through layering. Here is an article that explains how to layer muscadine vines. Later you can plant the young ones further out in the yard on a trellis where they can get some sun.

Unless you wish to clear the woods, I'd leave alone the ones growing in the trees. You may discover later that they will begin to produce fruit.Even if they don't produce fruit, I like the ones growing in the woods because the yellow foliage looks like golden garlands draped in the trees during fall.

To view my Youtube videos about pruning muscadines, click on the following links:

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Results of Community Poll Ending 16 August, 2011

2011-08-16T11:35:00.000-04:00

Our community poll at goGardenNow.com ending 16 August asked the question, "Do you prefer to plant your vegetable garden in raised beds or traditional rows?"

70% of respondents answered, "Raised beds."
30% answered, "Traditional rows."

I recall the days when vegetable gardening in raised beds was a novelty. But beginning in the 1950s, books and articles were published that began to change things. The first I remember seeing was Ruth Stout's How to have a Green Thumb without an Aching Back: A New Method of Mulch Gardening, published in 1955. Gardening Without Work followed in 1963, and The Ruth Stout No-Work Garden Book: Secrets of the year-round mulch method in 1973. Ruth was also published in Organic Gardening and Farming Magazine by Rodale Press. Various of my family members either owned the books or subscribed to the magazine.

(By the way, Ruth was the sister of Rex Stout, author of the Nero Wolfe detective novels. Rex Stout and Nero Wolfe have their own followers!)

Two other influential books were Getting the Most from Your Garden: Using Advanced Intensive Gardening Techniques by the editors of Organic Gardening Magazine (1980) and Square Foot Gardening by Mel Bartholomew (1981), both from Rodale Press.

From those classics, ordinary people began to learn that they could produce their own food even in the city by making the best use of small plots. What was a rare practice has become more common than gardening in traditional rows. You might say that what was new has become the tradition.

Our current community poll asks the question, "How much more are you willing to spend for organic foods?" You'll find the poll in the right-hand side-bar of most pages. One exciting thought is that by growing your own, you many not need to spend ANY more for organic foods.

Respond to the current goGardenNow community poll, or return to goGardenNow.com.

FAQ: Any solutions for getting rid of nutgrass and Bermuda grass?

2011-08-15T12:36:00.001-04:00

I had some Bermuda grass in my yard, and my neighbor has some along one of my property lines. I completely covered my front yard with landscape fabric, punched holes for plants, and added mulch on top. Now I have Bermuda and “nut” grass popping through along side some plants and along one property line. Will Lirope spicata crowd out the Bermuda? Any other solutions for getting rid of “nut grass” and Bermuda?

Lirope spicata is an aggressive ground cover, but it isn't aggressive enough to eliminate Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon) and nutgrass (Cyperus spp.). I suggest you use chemical controls. Image® is effective for nutgrass control. Ornamec®, Grass-B-Gon®, Grass Beater®, Poast®, and Envoy® are effective for control of Bermuda grass. Check the labels to determine whether the chemicals can be used over your particular ornamental plants.

When using lawn and garden chemicals, always follow label instructions.

Return to goGardenNow.com.

Washington Regulators Stirring Up More Trouble For Farmers

2011-08-12T10:14:00.001-04:00

Washington regulators are stirring up more trouble for farmers. The Gazette Virginian posted this article today.

"The Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration, which is a part of DOT, wants to adopt standards that would reclassify all farm vehicles and implements as Commercial Motor Vehicles, officials said. Likewise, the proposal, if adopted, would require all farmers and everyone on the farm who operates any of the equipment to obtain a CDL, they added." Read the entire article here.

Leave it to federal regulators from Washington, DC to try to ram another stick through our spokes. To call this proposal "absurd" is putting it mildly. If you wish to register your opposition, contact your senators and contact your congressman.

If you've been using Imprelis herbicide, read this.

2011-08-10T19:58:00.003-04:00

If you've been using Imprelis herbicide and have seen problems with your conifers, read this article about Imprelis and DuPont.

Rutgers Gardens

2011-08-10T17:30:00.003-04:00

Just off of U.S. Hwy 1 driving along Ryders Lane in New Brunswick, New Jersey, I was following my Google Map directions looking for the entrance to the Rutgers Gardens. I was expecting something like a large banner, wall or gate, so I missed it. I asked directions, and was told to turn around. "It's back there somewhere," the store clerk said with a wave of the arm. Driving slowly, I found a little sign about 5"x 7" along a chain link fence beside an obscure exit onto Log Cabin Road. Here was the entrance to the famed Rutgers Gardens. Follow me to see what grows behind the highway guard rail.

The Gardens, located on the campus of Rutgers University, were established in 1927 as several horticultural collections in garden settings where plants were grown for research and trial. The first I passed, literally behind the guard rail, was an impressive collection of American hollies that I've often read about, said to be the largest such collection in the world.

According to Rutgers web site, "The future of the Rutgers Gardens is the development of designed gardens. Landscape architects, design professionals, and home owners will be able to see and learn different methods of combining plants that will provide four seasons of color, texture and form." A visit is not a stuffy, academic exercise, but an inspiring experience. You'll leave with ideas that you can use in your own landscape.

The Gardens are quite extensive, covering 50 acres, so it could take some time to enjoy them at a leisurely pace. In addition, the size demands some kind of map to guide the visitor along. I didn't find one, though an unassuming kiosk displays a map and legend. So I took a photograph of it and followed as best I could.

After parking (my car was the only one in the lot), I strolled around a portion of the Holly Collection. It's amazing how much diversity there is in habit, leaf and fruit among the American species of the genus, Ilex. Did you know that there are yellow-fruited varieties? I used to grow them, and may once again. One of my favorite hollies in my personal collection is Ilex opaca 'Maryland Spreader', a slow-growing, mounding variety.

Directly across the drive is a large open area surrounded by the Shrub Garden. Unfortunately, bloom season was over. But even in August a landscaper or home gardener could get a good idea of the size they might expect from various mature shrubs. That would be a valuable education in itself, for a vast majority of landscape shrubs seem to be planted without regard to that important consideration.

Similarly, the Shade Tree Collection should provide valuable lessons to gardeners. Not only size, but shape, canopy density, leaf form and bark texture are worth studying.

Cutting back through the Shrub Garden, I headed for the Lacey Harrison Display Garden which features All-American Selections of vegetables and flowers.

This garden was named for an Extension Specialist in home Horticulture who was involved in designing a demonstration garden of annual plants for the home landscape. Interns and volunteers plant and maintain the delightful display. A student working among the vegetables was eager to answer questions. Having noticed that the beds seemed to be arranged with companionable plants, I inquired. He said it was true. However, these were not only experimental beds, but displays which were the results of research. Even folklore was carefully studied. Typical combinations included tomatoes and basil, and the "three sisters" (corn, beans and squash). Side-by-side vegetable comparisons were "in progress." Of course, tomato trials were among them. You might recall that Rutgers introduced a tomato by that name back in 1934. For many years it was a standard beside which other tomatoes were judged.

The Roy H. De Boer Evergreen Garden is adjacent to the Harrison Display Garden. Roy DeBoer was the former Chairman of the Landscape Architecture Department at Cook College who designed the garden. Plants are grouped around a sunken lawn, creating a delightful vista from a vantage point at the Quimby Water Conservation Garden. A magnificent Sargent's Weeping Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis 'Sargentii') stands out among the collection.

Water conservation is an important topic nowadays. A visitor will get a lot of good ideas on what and how to plant to minimize water use from the Quimby Garden. The practice is called xeriscaping. You can learn more about it from my blog articles on xeriscaping and drought-tolerant plants. A nearby succulent garden also provides good examples for gardeners to adapt.

Across Log Cabin Road from the Quimby Garden, a few smaller "garden rooms" can be found. The tool shed serves as a focal center. These Tribute Gardens are sponsored by persons or corporations to honor the accomplishments and contributions of others. You would enjoy the individual expressions represented. Some are whimsical; all are delightful. Climb up into an oversize Adirondack chair and feel like a kid again!

Gardeners interested in ornamental grasses will find many to inspire them.

Rain gardens are becoming popular as effective methods of trapping available water and minimizing runoff. My blog article about rain gardens explains in greater detail. While rain gardens are considered to be attractive, low-maintenance additions to the landscape, it is also true that they can eventually become unsightly. The Rutgers Rain Garden was designed to demonstrate ways that rain gardens can be maintained more attractively with less work. Because rain gardens are meant to trap runoff from impermeable surfaces such as roofs, driveways and roads, they are usually located near those structures. This rain garden was designed to pipe water from collection areas, run through attractive water features and little waterfalls to the bog garden. Appropriate plants complete the design. A sign explains the rain garden concept. You can also read more about it at Rutgers Rain Garden page. You'll find an article about bog gardens and plants in my blog.

The Rhododendron Garden and Bamboo Garden have attracted visitors for many years. The former was established in the 1930 to accommodate plants of similar environmental needs in a plant community.

Unfortunately, my visit wasn't in spring when many of them would be in bloom. The Bamboo Garden was established in the 1950s to provide shelter for honey bees. As some bamboos spread by extensive underground rhizomes, they can be invasive. Just so has the Bamboo Garden grown. But it has also become a magical place to walk among what feels like a bit of the tropics in New Jersey.

I was so enchanted with the nearby Ornamental Tree Garden that I photographed nearly every one. There are magnificent specimens of extraordinary size and beauty. Check out these photos of American Hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana), American Hophornbeam (Ostrya virginiana), Persian Ironwood (Parrotia persica), the rare India Guassiawood (Picrassima guassioides), Winterberry Euonymus (Euonymus bungeana), Two-winged Silverbell (Halesia diptera), Mountain Silverbell (Halesia tetraptera var. monticola), Paperbark Maple (Acer griseum), Lavalle Cork Tree (Phellodendron amurense var. lavallei), Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum 'Burgundy Lace'), and Kousa Dogwood (Cornus kousa). As you know, ornamental trees are especially appropriate for the residential landscape, but they can grow much larger than one expects. Keep that in mind, especially if you intend to stay in one home for a long time.

This brief article barely begins to explore so many interesting aspects of The Rutgers Gardens. You really should see it for yourself. It's open to the public from 8:30am until dusk year around. Though no admission fee is charged, it is not funded by tax revenue. Rutgers Gardens depends upon friends for support.
I've included links to more photographs below to entice you.

Cornus kousa in fruit and leaf. Water fountain in pebble garden. All-America Selections Garden panorama. Another All-America Selections Garden panorama. All-America Selections Vegetable garden panorama. Another photograph of the Vegetable Garden. Attractive container garden.

Read other articles about public and private gardens.

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FAQ: The leaves on my 5-year old maple tree are turning brown around the edges. What's causing it? Is there anything I can do? Do you think it will live?

2011-08-06T09:57:00.002-04:00

I expect that your tree is suffering from drought and heat. There's been a lot of that going around this year. Maples are not particularly drought tolerant, especially young ones. You need to water it, and you need to do it right. One option is to rig up a drip irrigation system around the base of the tree. Ask for instructions at your local garden center or check the internet. Most drip irrigation manufacturers provide instruction pamphlets.

The irrigation line should be placed on the ground around the tree just inside the drip line. That's where the feeder roots are. The drip line is under the outer branches. Watering close to the trunk won't help. There are no feeder roots there. Irrigate long enough for the water to soak deeply into the ground. Three or four hours the first day is not too long. The soil should be kept moist, not soggy.

Another option is to place the end of your garden hose on the ground just inside the drip line and let it drip slowly for one or two hours. Then move it to another place around the tree and let it drip some more. Keep doing it until you've watered entirely. Again, the soil should be kept moist, not soggy.

A third option is to install a drip irrigation bag on your tree. There are several brands. Treegator is the original. These are placed around the trunk of the young tree and filled with water. The water is gravity fed slowly into the root ball. If the tree is too large and the drip line too far from the trunk, drip irrigation bags won't do the job.

Will it survive? I don't know. That depends on how much the tree has suffered. It might survive through this season but croak the next, or even the next. In addition, drought stress can weaken trees to the point that they succumb to other afflictions.

As I've often heard said, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." Watering a little during dry spells when the tree is healthy is better than watering a lot when it's suffering. But we usually don't think of it until symptoms begin to appear. That's the way we are about a lot of things, isn't it?

Readers of this blog post are invited to share their own solutions. You can share your ideas by clicking the "Post a comment" link below. Let us hear from you!

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Nursery Management : Aster yellows infects various perennials

2011-07-28T08:46:00.000-04:00

Home gardeners and professional growers alike may benefit from this article.

Nursery Management : Aster yellows infects various perennials

FAQ: What gardening tasks should I do in August?

2011-07-27T16:06:00.000-04:00

August is practically upon us, so it's time to plan garden tasks for the month. Here are a few gardening tasks for August organized by region.

Northeast States: Plant fall-blooming bulbs and perennials. Spring and summer-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Sow cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Lightly prune and shape shrubs and trees, with the exception of spring-blooming shrubs and trees. Fertilize annuals, houseplants and vegetables. Mow lawn regularly. Clean up vegetable garden. Compost debris. Order bulbs for fall planting, if you haven't already.

Mid-Atlantic States: Plant fall-blooming bulbs and perennials. Spring and summer-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Sow cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Lightly prune and shape shrubs and trees, except for spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Fertilize annuals, houseplants and vegetables. Mow lawn regularly, aerate lawn if necessary. Clean up vegetable garden. Compost debris. Order bulbs for fall planting, if you haven't already.

Mid-South States: Plant fall-blooming bulbs and perennials. Spring and summer-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Sow cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Transplant collards, brussels sprouts, cabbage, broccoli and cauliflowers sets to garden. Lightly prune and shape shrubs and trees, but do not prune spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Fertilize annuals, houseplants and vegetables. Mow lawn regularly, aerate lawn if necessary. Clean up vegetable garden. Mulch flower beds again. Compost debris. Order bulbs for fall planting, if you haven't already.

Lower South and Gulf States: Sow cool-season annuals. Transplant brassica vegetable sets to garden. Plant fall-blooming bulbs and perennials. Lightly prune trees and shrubs, but do not prune spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Continue lawn maintenance. Compost debris. Order bulbs for fall planting, if you haven't already.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Plant container-grown trees and shrubs, perennials, ground covers. Sow cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crop. Divide perennials. Lightly prune trees and shrubs. Add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Order bulbs for fall planting.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Sow cool-season annuals and vegetables. Plant fall-blooming bulbs. Divide perennials and deadhead perennials. Lightly prune shrubs and trees, with the exception of spring-blooming shrubs and trees. Fertilize annuals, house plants and and container gardens. Clean up garden and add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Order bulbs for fall planting.

Pacific Northwest States: Transplant cool-season annuals and vegetables. Plant fall-blooming bulbs. Divide perennials. Lightly prune shrubs and trees, with the exception of spring-blooming shrubs and trees. Fertilize annuals, house plants and and container gardens. Mulch shrubs and trees, again. Clean up garden and add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Order bulbs for fall planting.

Return to goGardenNow.com.

Green Grow The Rushes, O!

2011-07-21T13:25:00.004-04:00

Juncus effusus 'Spiralis'

For centuries, rushes have been woven into the story of humanity.

Young, pliant and pithy, rushes have symbolized youth and regeneration.

Green rushes with red shoots,
Long leaves bending to the wind -
You and I in the same boat
Plucking rushes at the Five Lakes.

We started at dawn from the Orchid Island:
We rested under elms until noon.
You and I plucking rushes
Had not plucked a handful when night came!

- Anonymous, Chinese, 4th century. Translated by Arthur Waley

Green grow the rashes, O;
Green grow the rashes, O;
The sweetest hours that e'er I spend,
Are spent amang the lasses, O.

There's nought but care on ev'ry han',
In ev'ry hour that passes, O;
What signifies the life o' man,
An' 'twere na for the lasses, O.
Green grow, etc
- Robert Burns (1759-1796), Green Grow The Rushes, O!

Not to be confused with Burns's song, there was a traditional Christmas carol of the same name that was popular in ye olde England.

The lyrics of this Green Grow The Rushes, O! are somewhat enigmatic to the modern ear, though the symbols are based on Christian themes. Strangely, it was twisted to become a popular Sesame Street counting song.

In Victorian times, the language of flowers meant a lot. To them, rushes symbolized docility and domesticity, i.e. peace at home. Certainly, docility should follow marriage. It has, more than less, though life has always been a struggle. But why should rushes symbolize docility? Perhaps because rushes were common material, easily found and used in Asia and Europe around the home, woven into symbols, shades, mats, cushions, beds, carpeting and roofing. Their leaves were even dipped in tallow to serve as candle substitutes. Rushes could be found everywhere. Rushes on the floor, mixed with scented herbs made the home comfortable, welcoming and memorable.

According to Erasmus, rushes were over-used for carpeting in medieval Britain, and may have contributed to scourges.

On the other hand, rushes have been used for medicinal purposes such as reducing inflammation and fever, purging toxins, treating tumors, healing urinary tract infections, dispelling kidney stones, as a laxative, relieving respiratory infections, and sedation.

Though they are evergreen, rushes in autumn and winter look worn and show their age. As Edna St. Vincent Millay and Sara Teasdale wrote, sometimes that's how worn-out life and love appear.

When reeds are dead and a straw to thatch the marshes,
And feathered pampas-grass rides into the wind
Like aged warriors westward, tragic, thinned
Of half their tribe, and over the flattened rushes,
Stripped of its secret, open, stark and bleak,
Blackens afar the half-forgotten creek,—
Then leans on me the weight of the year, and crushes
My heart. I know that Beauty must ail and die,
And will be born again,—but ah, to see
Beauty stiffened, staring up at the sky!
Oh, Autumn! Autumn!—What is the Spring to me?
-Edna St. Vincent Millay, The Death Of Autumn

The world is tired, the year is old,
The little leaves are glad to die,
The wind goes shivering with cold
Among the rushes dry.

Our love is dying like the grass,
And we who kissed grow coldly kind,
Half glad to see our poor love pass
Like leaves along the wind.
- Sara Teasdale, November

Christina Rossetti imagined the floor around her death bed being strewn with rushes.

The curtains were half drawn, the floor was swept
And strewn with rushes, rosemary and may
Lay thick upon the bed on which I lay,
Where through the lattice ivy-shadows crept.
He leaned above me, thinking that I slept
And could not hear him; but I heard him say:
"Poor child, poor child:" and as he turned away
Came a deep silence, and I knew he wept.
He did not touch the shroud, or raise the fold
That hid my face, or take my hand in his,
Or ruffle the smooth pillows for my head:
He did not love me living; but once dead
He pitied me; and very sweet it is
To know he still is warm though I am cold.
- Christina Rossetti, After Death

Juncus effusus

"But WAIT," you might ask, "What about the boat of bulrushes which floated baby Moses out of site?"

This is where we get into the physical details of plants. Bulrushes, you see, are not rushes at all; they are members of the sedge family, Cyperaceae. A little poem helps me to tell sedges apart from rushes. “Sedges have edges; rushes are round; grasses are hollow right up from the ground.” Rushes are of the genus Juncus (pronounced JUN-kus), and include up to 300 species. The leaves emerge from clumps, are relatively long, roundish and pithy in the center. The flowers are grass-like, held high, sometimes feathery, sometimes star-like. Plant height differs by species and variety, but ranges between 6 inches and 48 inches. Rushes are found around the world, usually in wet or moist locations. Most grow in cooler climates, rarely in the tropics.

Because of their stark appearance, many rushes are excellent as ornamental plants adding verticality and textural interest to the water or bog garden. Juncus effusus, also known as Common Rush and Soft Rush, may be the best known. Several varieties with cork-screw shaped leaves are especially notable.

Rushes are very easy to grow. All they need is a wet spot. They thrive in full sun to partial shade, and are generally hardy in USDA climate zones 4 through 10. There is no need to till the soil; you can't till mud, anyway. Soil pH should be from 5.6 to 7.5. Wet soils are generally acidic because of the rotting vegetable matter - perfect for rushes.

Rushes can be planted directly into the soil. Space them 12 inches to 24 inches apart, depending upon mature plant size. (Plant the larger ones farther apart.) They can also be grown in submerged containers. In fact, submerged containers may be the best manner for those species that tend to spread extensively.

Beside the fact that rushes are ideal for water and bog gardens, they also attract some species of hungry butterflies either in larval stage or on the wing. For creating aquatic wildlife habitat, rushes are perfect. Gardeners interested in cultivating plants pertaining to history, medicine, literature and crafts will want to grow rushes. If you are establishing or adding to a water or bog garden, planting a rain garden to conserve run-off, or just trying to figure out what to do with that mucky spot in your yard, rushes are for you.

Return to Juncus at goGardenNow.com.

Results of Community Poll Ending 19 July, 2011

2011-07-19T12:35:00.001-04:00

Our community poll at goGardenNow.com ending 19 July asked the question, Do you intentionally choose plants for your vegetable, fruit and ornamental gardens that require less water?

45% of respondents answered, "Yes, always."
32% answered, "Yes, sometimes."
23% answered, "No."

Our current community poll asks the question, "Do you prefer to plant your vegetable garden in raised beds or traditional rows?" You'll find the poll in the right-hand side-bar of most pages.

Respond to the current goGardenNow community poll, or return to goGardenNow.com.

FAQ: What gardening tasks should I be doing in July?

2011-07-19T12:00:00.000-04:00

Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for July organized by region.

Northeast States: Plant container-grown perennials, potted roses. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Divide spring-blooming bulbs. Sow warm-season and cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Lightly fertilize perennials. Continue rose care. Fertilize shrubs, annuals and container gardens every 10 to 14 days. Mulch trees and shrubs to conserve moisture. Mow lawn regularly. Order bulbs for fall planting.

Mid-Atlantic States: Continue planting trees and shrubs and container gardens. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Divide spring-blooming bulbs. Sow warm-season and cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Continue rose care. Mulch trees and shrubs to conserve moisture. Fertilize shrubs, annuals and container gardens every 10 to 14 days. Mulch trees and shrubs to conserve moisture. Mow lawn regularly. Prune shade trees to remove damaged limbs. Order bulbs for fall planting.

Mid-South States: Continue pruning spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Continue to divide and transplant perennials. Continue to plant container gardens. Remove spent vegetables from the garden and sow or transplant warm season vegetables with short maturities. Pinch planted mums to delay bloom. Lightly fertilize camellias, azaleas, annuals, container gardens, summer bulbs, fruit trees. Spray fruit trees with insecticide and fungicide. Continue rose care. Sow cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Order bulbs for fall planting.

Lower South and Gulf States: Continue pruning spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Continue to divide and transplant perennials. Continue to plant container gardens. Remove spent vegetables from the garden and sow or transplant warm season vegetables with short maturities. Pinch planted mums to delay bloom. Lightly fertilize camellias, azaleas, annuals, container gardens, summer bulbs, fruit trees. Spray fruit trees with insecticide and fungicide. Continue rose care. Sow cool-season vegetable seeds for fall crops. Dead-head crape myrtles to lengthen the bloom season. Order bulbs for fall planting.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Plant container-grown trees and shrubs, perennials, ground covers, annuals, roses. Sow warm-seasons and cool-season vegetable seeds. Divide spring bulbs and perennials. Lightly fertilize trees, shrubs, container gardens, vegetables and herbs, house plants. Continue rose care. Lightly prune trees and shrubs. Add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Order bulbs for fall planting.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Replace spent warm season annuals, vegetables and herbs. Start cool-season vegetables for your fall garden. Divide perennials. Deadhead perennials and annuals when blooming is over. Fertilize trees, shrubs, container gardens, vegetables and herbs, house plants. Continue rose care. Add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Order bulbs for fall planting.

Pacific Northwest States: Plant container-grown trees and shrubs, perennials, ground covers, annuals, roses. Sow warm-seasons and cool-season vegetable seeds. Divide spring bulbs and perennials. Lightly fertilize trees, shrubs, container gardens, vegetables and herbs, house plants. Continue rose care. Lightly prune trees and shrubs. Add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance. Order bulbs for fall planting.

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The Saga Of Julie Bass, Gardener and Dog Owner

2011-07-15T20:16:00.002-04:00

I posted earlier about Julie Bass, the gardener who incurred the wrath of municipal authorities by planting a vegetable garden in her front yard. Apparently, an unhappy neighbor reported her garden and the law came down hard. Thanks to a ground swell of popular support for Julie Bass, the law backed off but found something else to chase: her dogs. Here is the latest report from Prison Planet about the apparent harassment of gardener Julie Bass. Read more about Julie Bass at Huffington Post. You can follow the Julie Bass Blog for her personal perspective. You can also gently opine to City Planner Kevin Rulkowski.

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An improper vegetable garden?

2011-07-09T19:11:00.001-04:00

When times were tough during the Jimmy Carter administration, front yard vegetable gardens began popping up all over, even in comfortable neighborhoods. Now they are reappearing and becoming more common during the Obama administration.

But this front yard garden belonging to Julie Bass is not allowed in Oak Park, Michigan.

Who would think that gardeners with raised beds visible from the street would be prosecuted? Why is this garden so offensive? Because it's not "suitable." Why is it not "suitable?" Because, at this point, "suitable" means "common", in the eyes of the law. Perhaps there are not enough front yard gardens to make them "common."

So, dear friends, plant vegetable gardens in your front yards to make them commonplace and suitable. For the sake of Julie Bass.

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The Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden

2011-07-09T15:55:00.000-04:00

The ornate terra cotta roof of the Main Street Railroad Station rising above a concrete flyover hints to hurried travelers on I-95 in Richmond, VA that there is something grand beneath the city's industrial surface. In fact, it was industry, capital and private benevolence that funded Richmond's grandeur. From the rubble of the Civil War, the city emerged as an economic dynamo. You might say Richmond was smoking...literally, for it became an important home to the tobacco industry. Lewis Ginter was one of its leading citizens. For his business acumen and his part in developing a cigarette-rolling machine, Ginter became very wealthy, and he used his wealth to advance learning and culture.

Ginter's wealth, influence and sense of philanthropy was shared among other members of his family, most notably with his niece, Grace Arents. Grace, heiress to Ginter's fortune, contributed generously to charitable organizations, and was also involved in "hands-on" benevolence. Eventually, Arents' liberality provided a fitting memorial to her uncle in the form of a wonderful botanical garden for the benefit of the public.

As with the roof of the Main Street station, the entrance to the Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden only hints at the beauty beyond. Upon entering the garden from the Visitors Center, the signature Conservatory is viewed beyond three delightful garden rooms. With a map in hand and the conservatory as a destination, we come first to the Four Seasons Garden, which is planted for year-round seasonal interest. Just beyond, the Healing Garden features plants with medicinal properties. Before ascending the hill to the Conservatory, the Sunken Garden provides a water feature and a place for private reflection.

The Conservatory is "the jewel of the garden", its 63 foot tall dome and translucent panes sparkling in the sunlight. In it is housed an extensive orchid collection, palms and seasonal floral displays.

Down the hill toward the lake, the Rose Garden features a vast selection chosen for disease resistance, fragrance and extended bloom period. A visit in summer should be delightful.

We who enjoy asian theme gardens will not be disappointed. Our visit in spring found the Prunus and Magnolia trees to be in full bloom. On the other hand, the season was not the best for enjoying the West Island Garden, which features carnivorous plants.

Perennial plant enthusiasts will be thrilled with the Flagler Perennial Garden, Woodland Walk, Arents Victorian Garden, the Lace House Garden with hand-carved gazebo, and the Wildside Walk. Grace Arents Bloemendaal House, set among these gardens is typical of its day.

The Children's Garden, Conifer Garden and wildflower meadow will captivate young and old alike. The view across the lake from the Lucy Payne Minor Gazebo is not to be missed.

If you're journeying through Richmond, the Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden is not far from I-95. We've passed the signs many, many times, always feeling rushed and thinking that we simply couldn't spare an hour or two. But a visit to the Garden is just what a hurried traveler needs.

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FAQ: How should I prune nandina plants?

2011-07-07T15:22:00.000-04:00

My nandina plants look straggley and need to be pruned, but I don't know how. Can you help me?

I assume yours are not a newer, compact variety of Nandina domestica. If you were to cut all the canes back by two-thirds in late spring, they should re-grow and look decent by the end of summer. But since it is now July, they may not have enough time and vitality to re-grow if you remove all the foliage. I suggest that you select about one-third of the canes and cut them back by one-half to two-thirds. They should begin to re-grow and fill in at a lower level within the plant by the end of summer. Next year, cut back the ones that were left un-pruned from this year. By the end of the second growing season, your nandina should be rejuvenated.

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Become A Beetle Detective

2011-06-23T12:09:00.001-04:00

In 1996, Asian longhorned beetles (ALB, Anoplophora glabripennis) were discovered on some hardwood trees in Brooklyn, New York. The U.S. Secretary of Agriculture declared an emergency in order to combat the pests. The beetles are believed to have come into the U.S. in wood pallets and packing material with shipments from Asia.

Any invasive and destructive insect presents a problem. But the problem with these beetles is greater because they attack a wide range of tree species including Norway maple, silver, red and sugar maple, box elder, buckeye, horsechestnut, London plane, birch, elm and willow. The economic impact could be enormous.

In 2002, another devastating beetle was identified in Michigan and neighboring Ontario, Canada. Emerald ash borer (EAB, Agrilus planipennis Fairmaire) turned out to be the culprit behind the loss of ash trees in the state. Another non-native pest, it is distributed with the helping hand of humans when infested wood (firewood, for example) is moved from place to place. Emerald ash borer has now spread to at least 14 states, including Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kentucky, Maryland, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Virginia, West Virginia, and Wisconsin.

The war on the Asian longhorned beetle and emerald ash borer is essentially a seek-and-destroy mission, and the USDA is soliciting the help of citizens such as you. By learning the tell-tale signs of beetle damage, you can become a Beetle Detective and be on the lookout for these pests. The USDA wants to know not only if the beetles are present, but if they are not. By periodically reporting your findings, you aid in the effort to control or eradicate them. Learn more about becoming a Beetle Detective.

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FAQ: How do I prune muscadine vines?

2011-06-22T08:23:00.001-04:00

I just purchased a home in Louisiana. There are two muscadine vines that appear to not have been pruned for some time. I definitely want to keep them but I'm not sure what to do at this point. Is it too late to prune? I'm not even sure how to properly prune them. The two trunks are growing toward each other instead of the T shape that I've normally seen. Please advise.

The month of June is a little late to prune. You might remove too much and the plant be weakened. Besides, it would be easier to see what you're doing without leaves on the vines.

Since you know that the T-shape is ideal, you know what to work towards. I once heard an anecdote about advice given by a sculptor to his student. The student was unsure how to carve a fish from a block of stone. The sculptor told him to remove everything that didn't look like the fish.

Pruning the grape vine is kind of like that. Identify the main trunk and remove the others. Choose two long vines for arms (one to grow in each direction). They should be well-placed near the top of the trunk, and hopefully will be long enough and stout. Mark them, remove all others. Identify well-placed vines (spurs) that grow from the horizontal arms. Remove all others. Prune the remaining spurs to the length of 3 or 4 buds.

I've made many mistakes pruning grape vines. Thankfully, the vines are rather forgiving. You always get another chance, even if it comes next year.

Here are some links to videos I produced on pruning muscadines.

Video #1
Video #2
Video #3

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The Glimmer Of Goldenrod

2011-06-15T17:22:00.000-04:00

Across the meadow in brooding shadow
I walk to drink of the autumn's wine
The charm of story, the artist's glory,
To-day on these silvering hills is mine;
On height, in hollow, where'er I follow,
By mellow hillside and searing sod,
Its plumes uplifting, in light winds drifting,
I see the glimmer of golden-rod.

In this latest comer the vanished summer
Has left its sunshine the world to cheer,
And bids us remember in late September
What beauty mates with the passing year.
The days that are fleetest are still the sweetest,
And life is near to the heart of God,
And the peace of heaven to earth is given
In this wonderful time of the golden-rod.

L.M. Montgomery (1874-1942), In the Days of the Goldenrod

Goldenrod is of the genus Solidago (pronounced so-li-DAY-go). Solidago includes about 100 species mostly distributed throughout North America. Some are found in South America, Mexico and Europe. When goldenrod blooms, know that summer's end is near. It conjures a pensive mood in me.

The name, given by Linnaeus in 1753, comes from Latin, meaning "to make whole." Undoubtedly, he knew of its time-honored medicinal uses. Ailments treated included arthritis, tuberculosis, bladder inflammation, kidney stones, gout, colds and allergies, bronchitis and asthma.

Solidago was once considered as a possible source for rubber by Thomas Edison. The Edison Papers at the New York Botanical Garden tell the story. During World War I, Edison expected that rubber would be a very valuable commodity, began to search for latex sources in readily available plants. Edison's winter estate was in Ft. Myers, FL, just across the street from Henry Ford, so they and another friend, Harvey Firestone, began collaborating on the research project. The Edison Botanic Research Corporation of Fort Myers was formed. After many plant trials, they concluded that Solidago leavenworthii was the best source. Though they were able to produce very durable rubber, they were unable to do it on a large enough scale. The company was dissolved. Ford moved the solidago to his mansion near Richmond Hill, GA for awhile. The project was finally abandoned.

Interestingly, the Ford Motor Company has never given up on the idea of readily available plants. The company is now partnering with scientists at Ohio State University in an attempt to produce significant amounts of rubber from Russian Dandelion (Taraxacum kok-saghyz).

Most Solidago species thrive in USDA climate zones 3 through 9. Average garden soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8 is fine. Solidago is drought-tolerant, deer resistant and rabbit resistant.

Perennial borders, hummingbird gardens and butterfly gardens should include Solidago. Appropriate theme gardens would include medicinal, herb, historic and native plant gardens.

If you would like to grow Solidago, choose a site in full sun to partial shade. Take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. You will pay a small fee. If your soil is not friable, cultivate to a depth of 8 inches. Add fertilizer and other amendments as recommended. Remove all traces of weeds.

Water the plants in their pots. Allow them to drain. With a garden trowel, dig holes twice as large as the pots. Space the plants about 18 inches apart. (Larger growing species can be planted farther apart.) Remove the plants from their containers, add water to the planting hole, fill in around (not on top of) the root balls with native soil. Water again. A light top-dressing of mulch may help to retain moisture and discourage weeds until your plants are established.

Include Solidago in your garden. Toward the end of summer, its plumes uplifting, in light winds drifting, you'll see the glimmer in the wonderful time of the golden-rod.

Return to Solidago at goGardenNow.com.

Results of Community Poll Ending 13 June, 2011

2011-06-13T14:36:00.000-04:00

Our community poll ending 13 June asked the question: Do you import and/or cultivate (intentionally provide safe habitat for) beneficial insects in your garden?

20% of respondents said, "I import beneficial insects to my garden and cultivate them."

60% said, "I don't import beneficial insects, but I do intentionally provide safe habitat."

7% said, "None of the above, but there seem to be enough of them anyway."

13% said, "None of the above."

Our current community poll asks the question, "Do you intentionally choose plants for your vegetable, fruit and ornamental gardens that require less water?" You'll find the poll in the right-hand side-bar of most pages.

Respond to the current goGardenNow community poll, or return to goGardenNow.com.

FAQ: How many plants will I need?

2011-06-13T14:08:00.001-04:00

I want to plant English ivy in my yard. I haven't decided what size to plant. How many will I need?

Here are some general spacing guidelines for planting bare root plants, 2-1/2" pots, 3-1/2" and 4" pots, 4-1/2" pots and Quart-size pots.

Bare root plants should be spaced 4" to 8" apart. If 4" apart, you'd need 9 per sq. ft. If 6" apart, you'd need 4 per sq. ft. If 8" apart, you'd need 2.25 per square foot.

2-1/2" pots should be spaced 8" to 12" apart. Again, if 8" apart, you'd need 2.25 plants per sq. ft. If planted 10" apart, you'd need 1.45 plants per sq. ft. If planted 10" apart, you'd need 1 plant per sq. ft.

3-1/2" and 4" pots should be spaced 12" to 18" apart. Again, if 12" apart, you'd need 1 per sq. ft. If 15" apart, you'd need 1 plant per 1.56 sq. ft. If 18" apart, you'd need 1 plant per 2.25 sq. ft.

4-1/2" pots and Quart-size pots should be spaced 18" to 24" apart. Again, if planted 18" apart, you'd need 1 plant per 2.25 sq. ft. If planted 24" apart, you'd need 1 plant per 4 sq. ft.

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The North Carolina Arboretum

2011-06-07T15:52:00.001-04:00

Surrounded by the natural beauty of western North Carolina, the North Carolina Arboretum presents a unique combination of attractions to visitors. Biological diversity, green education, arts and crafts, landscape design and woodland strolls are celebrated in the shadow of Mt. Pisgah. The gateway is situated at the confluence of the French Broad River and Bent Creek close by The Blue Ridge Parkway.

The drive to the Baker Exhibit Center is as lovely as The Parkway, winding along the verdant creek side. The Exhibit Center features changing art and craft displays, a gift shop and lovely views of the outdoors. Immediately behind it, the Heritage Garden evokes an Appalachian farmstead and garden. A workshop is furnished to provide students hands-on experiences in old-time crafts such as dye-making from native herbs. Reminders to recycle are everywhere.

Appropriately, the Quilt Garden is adjacent. Seasonal annuals are planted in patterns characteristic of the Appalachian region. Twenty-four planting beds are divided by slate and gravel pathways, affording visitors comfortable strolls among the bright colors. An observation deck above it provides a fantastic overview of the area.

The Stream Garden reminds of the geological wonders that created the Southern Highlands. A stylized stream is planted with a harmonious combination of non-native and native species.

Sculpture is tastefully integrated in the landscape throughout the Arboretum. And though few of us can create or afford works of art for our own garden, there is a lot of inspiration for all of us to be creative, as with this container garden.

A promenade leads from the Stream Garden to the Bonsai Garden. Bonsai, an Oriental horticultural art form, may seem out-of-place in what seems like a homespun setting, but visitors will find examples with a distinctly Southern Appalachian flavor. As they say at the Arboretum, "The quality of the collection and its presentation has attracted national attention, while the promotion of bonsai as being an expression of an individual’s experience of nature, without attaching to it the trappings of any particular foreign culture, is a distinguishing innovation." That's what makes it work in this context.

The Plants of Promise Garden, next to the Education Center, features new selections, old favorites and native flora that show promise for residential landscape applications. It's sort of a trial garden to test plants for the region and similar environments.

Two collections should be well-worth your efforts to view in season: the Ericaceous Collection and National Native Azalea Collection. From them, enthusiasts needing more exercise can find comfortable trails beneath the sylvan canopy. Bent Creek Trail, Rocky Cove Road, Owl Ridge Trail and Hard Times Road form a comfortable loop for hikers.

Unfortunately for you and me, my camera batteries died after a few photographs. Replacements were not available in the gift shop, so I didn't capture as many images as I wanted. But you get the picture.

For complete information, directions, and schedules of events, check out the North Carolina Arboretum web site. I'm certain that one visit will entice you to return often.

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FAQ: Will ivy inhibit or kill daffodils?

2011-06-07T13:02:00.007-04:00

My question is about using ivy (English, hedera..) as a groundcover. The area is defined and slopes. I'd like the ground cover as an evergreen that could take pretty full sun - and it is hot in summer afternoons in Nashville. The key question is what happens to perennials (especially daffodils) that are planted in large numbers. Will the ivy inhibit or kill them? Thanks for any help you can offer.

Depending on where you live in Nashville, you might be in USDA climate zone 6 or 7. Hedera appreciates some shade from zone 7 and warmer, so you should give that some consideration. Hedera can grow densely, so it might present too much competition to some perennials. Daffodils would stand up to the competition okay.

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FAQ: What garden tasks should I be doing in June?

2011-05-31T17:45:00.002-04:00

Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for June organized by region.

Northeast States: Plant bare-root and container-grown perennials, potted roses, cool-season vegetable sets, annuals and strawberries in outdoor beds. Sow warm-season vegetables and herbs outdoors. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Divid spring-blooming bulbs. Prune trees, summer- and fall-blooming shrubs. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials. Continue rose care. Fertilize shrubs, annuals and container gardens every 10 to 14 days. Mulch trees and shrubs to conserve moisture. Mow lawn regularly.

Mid-Atlantic States: Continue planting trees and shrubs and container gardens. Sow vegetable and herb seeds in the garden. Transplant vegetable and herbs outdoors. Finish pruning spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Continue to remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Lightly fertilize annuals and vegetable seedlings. Fertilize spring bulbs when flowering is complete. Continue spraying fruit trees. Apply mulch to newly planted plants. Continue rose care. Install sod. Mow lawn regularly.

Mid-South States: Continue to plant container-grown trees and shrubs. Continue to divide and transplant perennials. Continue to plant container gardens. Sow warm-season annuals, vegetables and herbs. Transplant warm-season vegetable and herb seedlings. Shear spring-blooming trees and shrubs now that flowering is complete. Shear conifers and evergreen shrubs. Pinch planted mums to delay bloom. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize camellias, azaleas, annuals, container gardens, summer bulbs, fruit trees. Spray fruit trees with insecticide and fungicide. Continue rose care. Plant warm-season grass seed and install sod if you can irrigate regularly.

Lower South and Gulf States: Continue planting and transplanting outdoors, but make sure you provide adequate irrigation during June. Perennials can be divided. Prune shrubs and trees. Continue rose care and lawn maintenance. Thin vegetables in the garden. Continue composting.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Continue planting trees, shrubs, summer bulbs, annuals and vegetable sets. Divide summer- and fall-blooming perennials. Sow vegetable, annual and herb seeds. Shear conifers. Prune spring-flowering trees and shrubs since bloom is complete. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize azaleas, camellias, summer bulbs, vegetables, fruit trees, annuals, container gardens (including house plants). Continue rose care. Sow grass seed or install sod. Continue lawn care.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Sow and plant warm season annuals, vegetables and herbs. Divide early-blooming perennials. Prune diseased and dead wood from trees and shrubs. Deadhead perennials. Fertilize trees, shrubs, container gardens, vegetables and herbs, house plants. Continue rose care. Add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance.

Pacific Northwest States: Plant container-grown trees and shrubs, perennials, ground covers, annuals, roses. Divide spring bulbs and perennials. Plant or sow warm season herbs and vegetables. Prune dead or diseased branches from trees and shrubs. Fertilize trees, shrubs, container gardens, vegetables and herbs, house plants. Continue rose care. Add debris to compost pile. Continue lawn maintenance.

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FAQ: The bottoms of my tomatoes are rotting. What is the problem?

2011-05-24T16:22:00.001-04:00

The bottoms of my tomatoes are rotting what is the problem? What can I do about it?

The disease is called "blossom end rot" and it is caused by calcium deficiency in the fruit. Calcium strengthens the cell structure. When there is insufficient calcium, the cell walls are weakened and are prone to burst. It starts in the blossom end, because that is the weakest point in the fruit. Then it spreads because the surrounding cells are stressed more and burst.

The problem is essentially an environmental one, beginning perhaps with insufficient calcium in the soil. But even if there is enough soil calcium, other factors can prevent enough of it from reaching the fruit. Water transports the calcium, so if there is a lack of water, the calcium is not carried where it is needed. If the soil is dry, there will not be enough water. If air temperature is very hot, there may not be enough water in the plant itself. Dry soil and hot temperatures are usually coincidental, compounding the problem.

To help prevent blossom end rot, test your soil before planting. You can take a sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Office for analysis. The site should be in full sun. The soil should be high in organic matter and well-drained. Soil pH should be 6.5. If it is lower than that, add lime according to the soil analysis recommendations. Compost is always an appropriate soil amendment.

For good measure, add 1/2 cup of pelletized dolomite lime and 1/4 cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer to each planting hole before planting. Mix well. Do not allow fertilizer to come into direct contact with the plants. Water well after planting. Cover soil with mulch to 3 inches deep in order to preserve soil moisture. Provide 1-1/2 inches to 2 inches of water per week.

For added protection, spray your tomatoes weekly with calcium chloride when the blossoms are forming and fruits are small. This is usually done during late spring and early summer. Calcium chloride is available at garden centers.

Tomato varieties resistant to blossom end rot have been developed recently. Remember that rot resistant doesn't mean rot proof, but every advantage helps.

If you did not add lime to your soil before planting your tomatoes, it is too late to add it when blossom end rot appears. At that point, calcium chloride spray and adequate irrigation are your only remedies.

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FAQ: What is the best way to keep weeds out of my garden?

2011-05-21T13:41:00.000-04:00

In a word: MULCH. Mulch suppresses weeds and helps to retain soil moisture. There are many kinds of mulch which can be classified in two groups: synthetic and organic. Synthetic mulches include plastic sheeting, plastic fabrics, carpet remnants and rubber chips recycled from used tires. Organic mulches include pine straw, wheat and similar grain straw, peanut hulls, pecan shells, grass clippings, chopped leaves, old newspapers, sawdust, wood chips and compost. I prefer organic mulches because they decompose and add nutrients to the soil. An effective layer of organic mulch should be about 3 inches deep. If the mulch settles, add more. Mulch can be spread too deeply, smothering desirable plants. Mulch in moderation.

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Life Lessons From Silene

2011-05-10T14:15:00.003-04:00

Sources that I've researched indicate that the genus, Silene (pronounced sy-LEE-nee), aka Lychnis, was named by Carl Linnaeus in 1753, probably with the mythical and not too unbelievable character Silenus in mind.

Lewd Silenus, tutor of Dionysus, satyr and drunk in bad company with a Cyclops, could not get enough of wine. Yet, he was known for his occasional wisdom, loosened by drink. He was an imaginary embodiment of these sayings:

In vino veritas; En oino álétheia (in wine there is truth).
In goes wine, out comes a secret.
In wine there is truth, in water there is health.

Euripides figured him like this, exchanging with ODYSSEUS:

SILENUS

...Let me have a single cup of that (wine) and I would turn madman,

giving in exchange for it the flocks of every Cyclops

and then throwing myself into the sea from the Leucadian rock,

once I have been well drunk and smoothed out my wrinkled brow.

For if a man rejoice not in his drinking, he is mad;...

(Though I blush to print it, you can read the text here.)

...and there is dancing withal, and oblivion of woe.

Shall not I then purchase so rare a drink,

bidding the senseless Cyclops and his central eye go hang?

Euripides, The Cyclops (420BC)

Apparently, Silenus had had too much of water.

I've often wondered what goes on in the minds of plant taxonomists when they're bestowing names. Unfortunately, few have told. We know, however, that certain plant characteristics are often the bases for botanical names.

Silene is not known for medicinal qualities, nor is it associated with wine and intoxication. Some species have burgundy-colored flowers, but not enough of them to suggest the name. Many species of Silene have sticky parts, so are commonly known as Catchfly. Another common name, shared with other plants, is Bachelor's Button. Perhaps one holds a clue.

Well before the Victorians made much of the language of flowers, plants were steeped in symbolism. Daisies, for example, symbolized innocence. White lilies symbolized virginity. Red roses symbolized love. Ivy symbolized marital fidelity. Catchfly symbolized a snare. Perhaps that thought prompted Linnaeus to bestow the name.

Being the son of a Lutheran minister and amateur botanist, Carl Linnaeus was well-acquainted with Scripture. His father, Nils, probably taught him life lessons drawn from both.

No doubt Nils also warned him from the Bible as he left for University.

Take heed to yourselves, lest at any time your hearts be overcharged with surfeiting, and drunkenness, and cares of this life, and that day come upon you unawares. (Luke 21:34)

Let us walk honestly, as in the day; not in rioting and drunkenness, not in chambering and wantonness, not in strife and envying. (Romans 13:13)

Surfeiting, drunkenness, rioting, chambering, wantonness, strife, envying and cares take their toll. Silenus, entrapped by greedy King Midas and wine, burst out, “Oh, wretched ephemeral race … why do you compel me to tell you what it would be most expedient for you not to hear? What is best of all is utterly beyond your reach: not to be born, not to be, to be nothing. But the second best for you is—to die soon.”

Having been well-trained in Latin, Greek, Hebrew, theology, mathematics and botany, it's not much of a stretch to speculate that Linnaeus reflected on Catchfly and named it after tragic Silenus. Perhaps he even had a bit of personal experience from university life to draw upon.

Silene is a genus of about 700 species, distributed throughout the northern hemisphere. Some were formerly included in the Lychnis genus. Fewer than three dozen species are commercially available. Bloom time is generally from late spring to early summer. Most thrive in USDA climate zones 4 through 9. Average garden soil with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8 is fine. Drought-tolerance varies by species. Deer do not care to eat Silene.

Perennial borders, butterfly gardens, hummingbird gardens should include Silene. Flowers are good for cutting, too. Theme gardens emphasizing popular Victorian plants, the language of flowers, myth and legend would be perfect for Silene.

If you would like to grow Silene, choose a site in full sun to partial shade. Take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. You will pay a small fee. If your soil is not friable, cultivate to a depth of 8 inches. Add fertilizer and other amendments as recommended. Remove all traces of weeds.

Water the plants in their pots. Allow them to drain. With a garden trowel, dig holes twice as large as the pots. Space the plants about 12 inches apart. (Larger growing species can be planted farther apart.) Remove the plants from their containers, add water to the planting hole, fill in around (not on top of) the root balls with native soil. Water again. A light top-dressing of mulch may help to retain moisture and discourage weeds until your plants are established.

Silene, especially S. coronaria 'Gardener's World' with it's white foliage and striking red blooms, will certainly captivate your garden visitors. While you have their attention, instruct them in life lessons drawn from plants.

Return to Silene or Lychnis at goGardenNow.com.

Presenting The Philip Simmons Collection by Charleston Artist Shelia Thompson

2011-05-03T15:28:00.006-04:00

A couple of years ago we presented the work of renowned Charleston artist Shelia Thompson to you. Shelia is well-known for her wooden replicas of landmark Charleston buildings which have been very popular with collectors for about 30 years. More recently she turned her attention to working in recycled metal, producing functional art works of recycled steel featuring motifs of historic Charleston, South Carolina. Naturally, her interest in metal work and Charleston led her to honor the work of Philip Simmons.

Philip Simmons (June 9, 1912 - June 22, 2009) was an American blacksmith focusing on decorative iron work. He began producing household items and farm implements such as horseshoes. By the time he retired, blacksmithing had become an art form, thanks to his own efforts and those of artisans such as Bea Hensley of Spruce Pine, North Carolina.

Philip Simmons was born on Daniel Island, South Carolina, raised by his grandparents until he was 8 years old, then sent to Charleston in 1920 to live with his mother. Philip became interested in blacksmithing through Peter Simmons (unrelated), a former slave. At 13 years of age, he quit school and apprenticed with Peter for five years, becoming a full blacksmith when he was 18 years old. Philip established his own shop in 1938, working primarily in ornamental ironwork.

In the early 1940s, Simmons began working with Jack Krawcheck, a Charleston businessman, who, over the years, purchased or commissioned about 30 works. His relationship with Krawcheck proved to open up new opportunities for Simmons. Over the course of his career, he created over 500 works. Examples can be seen throughout Charleston and as far away as China. Some are on display at the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, DC, the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, the Richland County Public Library in Columbia, SC, the Atlanta History Center, Atlanta, and the South Carolina State Museum in Columbia.

Simmons' forge at his home on Blake Street has been designated by The National Trust for Historic Preservation as one of the eleven most endangered historic places in America, and is being preserved.

Some of Philip Simmons' motifs honored by Shelia Thompson include various ones from Stoll's Alley, 67 Broad Street, St. Michael's Alley, Simmons' egret, heart and palm.

To learn more about Philip Simmons, visit the web site of The Philip Simmons Foundation.

Return to The Philip Simmons Collection at goGardenNow.com.

Results of Community Poll Ending 2 May, 2011

2011-05-02T16:29:00.000-04:00

Our Community Poll ending 2 May, asked the question, "Are you concerned about eating Genetically Modified (GM) foods?"

Sixty-four percent of respondents said that they are concerned about eating Genetically Modified (GM) foods. Thirty-six percent indicated that they are not concerned. I didn't follow up this question in another poll, but we would like to know why respondents are or are not concerned, so I invite you to comment to this blog post. I realize that some of the respondents to that poll will not comment. Some will comment who didn't respond to the poll. But I believe that your comments will help to provide insight.

Comments are moderated, but that is simply to exclude unwelcome persons from trying to offer their unwanted advertisements.

Our current community poll asks the question: Do you import and/or cultivate (intentionally provide safe habitat for) beneficial insects in your garden? You'll find the poll in the right-hand side-bar of most pages.

Respond to the current goGardenNow community poll, or return to goGardenNow.com.

FAQ: What garden tasks should I be doing in May?

2011-05-02T14:44:00.000-04:00

Gardening is a continuous process of sowing, transplanting, dividing, pruning, fertilizing, irrigating, protecting, mulching, mowing, weeding, composting and fixing things.

Here are a few gardening tasks for May organized by region.

Northeast States: It's still possible to have late frost. Plant bare-root perennials, trees, shrubs. Continue planting and transplanting cold-hardy plants outdoors. Sow or transplant warm-season vegetables and herbs, but be ready to protect them from cold. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided. Prune shrubs and trees. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials as they emerge. Continue spring cleanup. Begin watering if the season is dry.

Mid-Atlantic States: It's still possible to have late frost. Plant bare-root and container-grown perennials, potted roses, cool-season vegetable sets, annuals and strawberries in outdoor beds. Sow warm-season vegetables and herbs outdoors. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted. Prune trees, summer- and fall-blooming shrubs. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials. Continue rose care. Fertilize shrubs, annuals and container gardens every 10 to 14 days. Mulch trees and shrubs to conserve moisture. Mow lawn regularly.

Mid-South States: Frost is still possible. Continue planting trees and shrubs and container gardens. Sow vegetable and herb seeds in the garden. Transplant vegetable and herbs outdoors. Finish pruning spring-blooming trees and shrubs. Continue to remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Lightly fertilize annuals and vegetable seedlings. Fertilize spring bulbs when flowering is complete. Continue spraying fruit trees. Apply mulch to newly planted plants. Continue rose care. Install sod. Mow lawn regularly.

Lower South and Gulf States: Continue to plant container-grown trees and shrubs. Continue to divide and transplant perennials. Continue to plant container gardens. Sow warm-season annuals, vegetables and herbs. Transplant warm-season vegetable and herb seedlings. Shear spring-blooming trees and shrubs now that flowering is complete. Shear conifers and evergreen shrubs. Pinch planted mums to delay bloom. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize camellias, azaleas, annuals, container gardens, summer bulbs, fruit trees. Spray fruit trees with insecticide and fungicide. Continue rose care. Plant warm-season grass seed and install sod if you can irrigate regularly.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: It's still possible to have late frost. If you have flats of growing warm-season annuals and vegetables, transplant them into larger containers. Transplant summer bulbs from containers to the garden. Continue planting and transplanting cold-hardy plants outdoors. Summer- and fall-blooming perennials can be divided. Prune shrubs and trees. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Trim winter-damaged ground covers to 6 inch height. Lightly fertilize perennials as they emerge. Complete spring cleanup, if you haven't already. Continue rose care. Thin vegetables in the garden.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Continue planting trees, shrubs, summer bulbs, annuals and vegetable sets. Divide summer- and fall-blooming perennials. Sow vegetable, annual and herb seeds. Shear conifers. Prune spring-flowering trees and shrubs since bloom is complete. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize azaleas, camellias, summer bulbs, vegetables, fruit trees, annuals, container gardens (including house plants). Continue rose care. Sow grass seed or install sod. Continue lawn care.

Pacific Northwest States: It's still possible to have late frost. Plant shrubs, trees, summer bulbs. Plant annuals, warm-season vegetables and herb sets, and sow warm-season annuals, vegetables and herb seeds, but be prepared to protect if late frost arrives. Divide crowded perennials. Shear evergreen shrubs and conifers. Prune spring-flowering plants when bloom is complete. Remove spent flower stalks from spring bulbs, but leave the foliage intact. Fertilize azaleas, camellias when bloom is complete. Fertilize fruit trees, container gardens, annuals, vegetables and herbs. Continue rose care. Mulch trees, shrubs and vegetables.

Return to goGardenNow.com.

FAQ: Can you tell me what's the problem delivering live plants to Nevada?

2011-05-02T13:28:00.003-04:00

Can you tell me what's the problem delivering live plants to Nevada? I've seen other companies on the web doing it.

The live plant descriptions in our online catalog include the following: We can not ship this item to Alaska, Arizona, California, Hawaii, Nevada, Oregon and Washington.

We do not ship to Alaska, Hawaii or Puerto Rico due to high transportation costs.

We will not ship bare root and potted plants to Arizona, California, Nevada, Oregon and Washington. The departments of agriculture of those states require that incoming plants be cleaned of all traces of soil before shipment or that each shipment include a phytosanitary certificate from the USDA or the Georgia Department of Agriculture.

Removing all traces of soil is cost-prohibitive for us and risky for the plants. Obtaining a phytosanitary certificate for each shipment requires that an inspector check out each shipment. It is time-consuming and costly, adding at least $50 to the cost of each shipment. It's not worth it.

We are able to ship imported plant items in the Bulbs category to all 48 continental states because they enter the U.S. with USDA phytosanitary certification.

I question the rationale behind the regulations imposed by those 5 states. Forty-three others are not so restrictive, but honor the good work done by other states' departments of agriculture. Such regulations seem to be more protectionist than protective.

As the questioner noted, other companies will readily ship live plants to Arizona, California, Nevada, Oregon and Washington. I can't address their particular circumstances. They may be ignoring the regulations. We don't.

Return to goGardenNow.com.

Violets - For That Romantic Spot In Your Garden

2011-04-29T15:39:00.001-04:00

Touch but my lips with those faire lips of thine,
Though mine be not so faire, yet are they red,
The kisse shalbe thine owne as well as mine,
What seest thou in the ground? hold vp thy head,
      Looke in mine eie-bals, there thy beauty lyes,
      Then why not lips on lips, since eyes in eyes?

Art thou asham'd to kisse? then winke againe,
And I will winke, so shall the day seeme night.
Loue keepes his reuels where there be but twaine:
Be bold to play, our sport is not in sight,
      These blew-veind violets whereon we leane,
      Neuer can blab, nor know not what we meane.

- Shakespeare, Venus and Adonis

So Venus wooed reluctant Adonis. Hunting he lou'd, but loue he laught to scorne. If he had only succumbed to her advances and left the hunt, he would not have succumbed to that boar.

Before the Victorians became entranced with the the language of flowers, Shakespeare seems to have understood what others would know later; violets were symbols of watchfulness and faithfulness. Violets, then, are as synonymous with true love as any rose.

Viola, a genus of plants with well over 400 species, is distributed worldwide. The genus belongs to the Violaceae family, which also includes Hybanthus, Hymenanthera, and Melicytus.

Pronounced vy-OH-la or vee-OH-la, the origin of the name is obscure. In A Modern Herbal, Margaret and Maud Grieve wrote, "Violet is the diminutive form of the Latin Viola, the Latin form of the Greek Ione. There is a legend that when Jupiter changed his beloved Io into a white heifer for fear of Juno's jealousy, he caused these modest flowers to spring forth from the earth to be fitting food for her, and he gave them her name. Another derivation of the word Violet is said to be from Vias (wayside)." But it may have come from an Old French word, according to other sources.

The best known species include V. labradorica, V. odorata, V. pedunculata, V. pubescens, V. sororia and V. tricolor. Garden pansies are Viola, too: V. x wittrockiana. Of them, V. labradorica, V. odorata and V. x wittrockiana are most important commercially.

Viola labradorica, also known as Alpine violet or Labrador violet, grows to 6 inches height, spreads nicely and forms a carpet. Blue flowers are produced early to late spring. Foliage is dark green with purple hues. A low maintenance plant, it thrives is moist, loamy, well-drained soil with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.5. Plant in partial to full shade. V. labradorica is hardy in USDA climate zones 3 through 8. Because it tolerates foot traffic moderately well, it can be used as a lawn substitute in low-traffic areas. Naturalize them in shade gardens and wooded settings. They are also well-suited to container gardens, low borders, medicinal gardens and theme gardens.

Viola odorata, also known as Sweet violet, English violet and Garden violet, grows a little higher than V. labradorica, sometimes to 8 inches. Flower color ranges from purple, blue to nearly white. Blossoms are produced from late winter to late spring. Foliage is dark to medium green. Sweet violet also thrives in moist, loamy well-drained soil with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.5. It tolerates sun much better, so will perform well in full sun to partial shade. It is hardy from USDA climate zone 4 to 9. V. odorata also does well as a lawn substitute, naturalized, in low borders and in containers.

V. x wittrockiana, also known as Pansy, is a hybrid of at least three species including V. altaica, V. lutea and V. tricolor. Pansies are so well known as to need no description. Suffice it to say that they are tender perennials, cold hardy in USDA climate zones 7 through 10. They tend to succumb to heat in warmer regions. Where they are not cold-hardy, they are best used as summer annuals. Where they are intolerant of heat, they can be used as winter annuals. Best pH is 5.6 to 7.5.

In addition ornamental uses, violets are edible. They can be used fresh or sugared as garnishes in salads, on cakes and pastries. They contain vitamins A and C, and anti-oxidants. V. odorata has also been used as a source of essential oil for perfume.

Before you plant, take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing. The results will specify any necessary soil amendments.

Prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10" deep. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil. Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants 8" to 15" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Water the plants in the pots, then drain. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1" deep.

Plant violets with other plants having similar cultural requirements. Fertilize sparingly and allow soil to dry between watering.

Violets are discreet little flowers, beautiful, rich in history and legend - perfect for that romantic spot in your garden.

Return to Viola at goGardenNow.com.

Before All Hail Broke Loose

2011-04-27T17:22:00.006-04:00

The last day of the 2011 Savannah Tour of Homes and Gardens, will be remembered as the day that all hail broke loose. It was a balmy Sunday, the last in March. Small groups of tourists strolled beneath the moss-draped oaks along Washington Avenue. The garden du jour could not be seen from the street, hidden as it was behind large azaleas and a screen. But the small haven was as lovely as I expected. Follow me to see what lay behind that garden wall in the calm before the storm.

The Savannah Tour of Homes and Gardens is an annual spring event presented by the Women Of Christ Church (Anglican) in partnership with the Historic Savannah Foundation. For 76 years, The Tour has provided visitors rare glimpses of some of Savannah's most notable residences and gardens. Proceeds support worthy charities.

This garden is located in historic Ardsley Park/Chatham Crescent, a development begun in 1909 by Harry Hays Lattimore, William Lattimore and their partners, as Savannah’s first automobile subdivision. Their intent was to attract wealthy new residents from out of state, but Savannahians considered it to be very appealing, too. Laid out in a grid pattern similar to General Oglethorpe's original design of the city, the homes were modern and the lots larger. Entrances to the development were marked by large belgian stone walls topped with red tile roofs. Conveniently situated parks welcomed residents to relax, visit and play outdoors. Alleys behind the homes allowed off-street parking and utility services to be conducted discretely.

This residence was built around 1920. Upon entering the garden, the feature that captures the eye is a water garden originally built as a wading pool for twin boys, sons of a former resident. Stones, natural and hewn, outline its perimeter. A small fountain adds a delightful sound; graceful koi add color and motion. The wisteria-shaded veranda, is typical of Savannah - dreamy and inviting. Though the garden is small, thoughtful placement of seating, shading and container gardens provide delightful little places for solitary peace, tea, or a private tete a tete, each with a unique perspective. Whimsical objects, add vibrant color to catch the eye and sometimes divert attention from more utilitarian things. The present owner, a Master Gardener, has transformed the place into a work of art.

It was a fine day in Savannah, though the breeze was picking up. As we moseyed to our car, I wished we could stay longer.

While we motored home, our son, an agent selling Savannah now, called to ask if we had run into a hail storm. Though the sky looked very threatening and the wind was gusting, we had not. At that moment, he alarmed, it was pummeling the city behind us. White, stony ice was covering the scene, beating azalea blooms to the ground and gardens to shreds. I hoped the garden on Washington Avenue fared well.

Return to goGardenNow.com.

Solve The Mystery With Gromwell In Your Garden

2011-04-27T12:29:00.000-04:00

The turf under the oak still retained the vague shape of Domville's body, but already the grasses were rising again. Cadfael prowled the pathway with his eyes on the ground, penetrated into the trees on both sides, and found nothing. It was a sudden shaft of sunlight through the branches, filtering through thick underbrush, that finally located for him what he sought, by picking out the glitter of the gold fringe that bordered the cape of the capuchon. It had been flung from its wearer's head when he was thrown, and buried itself in a clump of bushes three yards from the path, its fashionable twisted arrangement making it all too easy to dislodge in such a shock. Cadfael hauled it out. The turban-like folds had been well wound, it was still a compact cap, with one draped edge left to swing gracefully to a shoulder. And in the dark crimson folds a cluster of bright blue shone. Somewhere in his nocturnal ride Huon de Domville had added to his adornments a little bunch of frail, straight stems bearing long, fine green leaves and starry flowers of a heavenly blue, even now, when they had lain all day neglected. Cadfael drew the posy out of the folds, and marveled at it, for though it had commoner cousins, this plant was a rarity.

He knew it well, though it was seldom to be found even in the shady places in Wales where he had occasionally seen it. He knew of no place here in England where it had ever, to his knowledge, been discovered. When he wanted seed to make powders or infusions against colic or stone, he had to be content with the poor relatives of this rarity. Now what, he wondered, viewing its very late and now somewhat jaded flowers, is a bunch of the blue creeping gromwell doing in these parts? Certainly Domville had not had it when he left the abbey.

- Ellis Peters, The Leper of St. Giles, 1995

Just so did creeping gromwell provide the clue that would lead Brother Cadfael to solve the mystery of the murder of Huon de Domville. Being an herbalist, Cadfael noticed the posy and that it was out of place. Certainly, you understand because, as a gardener, you notice plants before you see much else.

But there is another mystery. What was the plant that Brother Cadfael spied? Culpeper noted the long-established medicinal value of gromwell in his Complete Herbal. Cadfael was drawn into this mystery in the first place because he was out and about looking to restore his supply of herbs. Was it a Lithospermum or a Lithodora? We may never know which; besides Cadfael is a fictitious character.

The Brother Cadfael Chronicles are set between the years 1135 and 1150. But the botanical name, Lithospermum, wasn't bestowed until around 1750 or so by Linnaeus. The genus, Lithodora, was described and separated from Lithospermum around 1844. Both have been commonly called "gromwell", in some form. But we do know that the flowers of Cadfael's gromwell were "heavenly blue", so that might help to narrow it down for you plant sleuths.

Of the two genera, Lithodora is more important horticulturally, so I'll focus on that. But I must note at this point that some of the plants within the genera are still called Lithospermum synonymously.

Lithodora (pronounced "lith-o-DOR-ah") means "stone gift", but there seems to be no record why it was named so. The stone might refer to the hard, nut-like seed the plant produces, but it might as well refer to the topography or soil type of some native habitat. Lithodora diffusa, for example, is native to southern Europe (Spain and Portugal) and a couple of areas near the southern Mediterranean.

Most species grow fewer than 8 inches in height, spreading perhaps to 18 inches. Foliage is lanceolate or linear, resembling rosemary but with hairy surfaces. Flower colors range from blue to white. (Lithospermum flowers are often yellow.) They tend to be drought-tolerant, making them ideal for xeriscaping. Acid soil is usually preferred. They aren't particularly cold hardy or heat tolerant, usually doing best in USDA climate zones 5 or 6 through 7 or 8.

Lithodora diffusa thrives in a broader climate range, usually from 5 through 9, which undoubtedly contributes to its greater popularity. Flowers appear in late spring and summer. It requires well-drained soil in full sun to partial shade. Soil pH should range between 5.6 to 6.5. Lithodora is deer resistant.

When you've chosen your planting site, take a soil sample to your nearby Cooperative Extension Service office for analysis. Follow soil test recommendations, making any amendments as needed. Remove all traces of weeds. Apply an appropriate herbicide. I prefer glyphosate. If your soil is not friable, cultivate to 8 inches deep. Water your plants in the pot before installing. Space them 12 inches to 15 inches apart. Surrounding soil should come to the top level of the root ball; don't bury it. Water again after planting.

Lithodora diffusa is great for perennial borders, ground cover, containers, hanging baskets, herb gardens, and perhaps as a lawn substitute if foot-traffic is light. It's also ideal for tucking into stone walls. Consider planting a theme garden; perhaps a medieval garden, medicinal garden, or a literary garden to celebrate plants made famous in poetry and prose. If you are looking for a plant that will do all that, and if you garden in an appropriate climate zone, plant Lithodora. Your mystery is solved.

Return to Lithodora at goGardenNow.com.

The Secret Is Oregano

2011-04-25T16:55:00.003-04:00

ANDY - That certainly is delicious spaghetti, Mrs. Sprague, especially that sauce of yours.

MRS. SPRAGUE - Oh, thank you, Andrew. It's something of a secret recipe handed down through five generations of the Sprague family.

ANDY - Oh, a secret. Oh, well, whatever it is in there it certainly is tantalizing.

MRS. SPRAGUE - I really shouldn't tell you, Andrew, but it's a Greek spice called oregano.

ANDY - Oh, well, who in the world would ever think of putting oregano in a sauce?

HOWARD - That's what makes it a secret recipe, Andy.

-The Andy Griffith Show, Dinner At Eight, Episode 206

With Aunt Bee and Opie out of town, Goober stops by Andy's house to keep him company and to fix a spaghetti dinner, seasoned with a secret ingredient: oregano. Half-way through dinner, Goober remembers that he forgot to give Andy two messages, but can't remember what they were. One was from Howard Sprague, the other from Helen Crump. Dimly recalling, he sends Andy to Howard's for another dinner. Surprised by his visit, the Spragues put dinner back on the table and Andy is served spaghetti again. But Goober got it wrong. Afterward, Andy gets an angry call from Helen that he's one hour late for dinner. Again, it's spaghetti with a secret ingredient: oregano.

You can watch the Dinner At Eight episode, which aired January 9, 1967, on Youtube: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3.

Popular since ancient times, oregano is no secret. It's a perennial herb, native to the Mediterranean region, with various species and subspecies indigenous to Kyrgyzstan, Italy and Greece, Crete and Turkey, and Syria. The most popular is Origanum vulgare, pronounced or-RI-gan-um vul-GAIR-ee. Oregano is commonly used, not only in spaghetti sauces, but in cuisines typical of most Mediterranean countries. Flavors vary somewhat by species and quality. Generally, oregano is more flavorful when dried than fresh.

Hippocrates is quoted as saying, "Let your food be your medicine, and your medicine be your food." It shouldn't come as a suprise that oregano has been valued as a medicinal herb. Hippocrates, himself, valued it as an antiseptic. Perhaps this is the reason that oregano was originally used as a food additive. It combats Listeria monocytogenes, a food-borne pathogen associated with milk, cheese, raw meats and even raw vegetables. Hippocrates wouldn't have known about Listeria, but the ancients certainly observed that some herbs helped to preserve foods and made them safer to eat. It's no wonder that the tastes of foods and associated herbs should become so inextricably linked.

Oregano has also been used to treat sore throats, stomach ailments and bronchial problems. As a poultice, it is said to relieve muscle aches and sprains. It's also known to be a powerful antioxidant.

Oregano grows as a low, sometimes creeping herb. Mature height is 6 inches to 12 inches, and spreads up to 18 inches. Showy pinkish-purple flowers appear mid-summer to early fall. It grows quickly and thrives in sun, though it appreciates afternoon shade in hot climates. It is drought tolerant, deer and rabbit resistant and tolerates foot traffic. Oregano thrives in USDA climate zones 4 to 9. It tolerates a wide variety of soil types with pH ranging from 6.1 to 8.5.

Before planting, test your soil. Your nearby Cooperative Extension Service can help you for a nominal fee. Follow the recommendations from the test results. If your soil is not friable, cultivate it 8 inches to 10 inches deep. Add amendments. Space the plants from 12 inches to 18 inches apart.

Oregano is excellent for container gardens, fragrance gardens, kitchen gardens and medicinal gardens, and as a ground cover. Golden oregano is one of the most attractive. If you enjoy watching butterflies, oregano will attract them.

Here is a recipe for pasta sauce I think you'll enjoy. The secret, of course, is oregano.

Ingredients

    1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
    3 garlic cloves, minced
    5 green bell peppers, cut into 1/4 inch strips
    1 small onion, sliced into 1/4 inch rings
    8 ounces black olives, sliced
    1/2 teaspoon dried cayenne pepper flakes
    1 cup dry white wine
    32 ounces low-sodium (salt) tomato juice
    1 teaspoon dried basil
    1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
    2 tablespoons honey
    1 teaspoon anchovy paste
    Salt and black pepper to taste
    1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

Directions

    In a large skillet, heat the oil on medium-high, add the garlic, and cook, stirring, until the garlic begins to turn golden. Add the peppers and onion and cook until they are soft and browning at the edges. Add the olives and crushed cayenne pepper. Pour in the wine, stir and cook for 1 minute.
    Add the tomato juice, basil, oregano, honey, salt and pepper. Stir in anchovy paste. Heat to boiling, then reduce heat to medium. Cook until the liquid is reduced and the sauce is thickened. Stir in fresh parsley. Serve with pasta.

Return to goGardenNow.com.

Rupture Wort

2011-04-19T14:33:00.007-04:00

That place just betwixt excruciating pain,
And, “oh don’t worry, I will be fine,”
Twisted back, muscles stretched to the limit,
No pain worse, at least not at that time…

- From Rupture Zone by Ed Matlack

Pain motivates sufferers to seize upon any offer of relief. An astute physician near Devon, England, having studied the doctrine of signatures, might have mused upon the knotty little flower of a weed, thought, "Of a hernia it doth remind me", and offered it as a cure to a desperate patient. I'm only speculating, of course. But however it happened, it apparently worked, for the herb became known as Rupture Wort.

Rupture Wort is also known by its botanical name, Herniaria glabra. Certainly, its use was well-established before the scientific name was bestowed. Linneaus himself might have carried a poultice wrapped in his truss, studied it and declared, "I shall call this Herniaria.

Herniaria is an unassuming little plant, prostrate and spreading, and no more than three inches high. The leaves are small and smooth. Flowers are insignificant. That it should have been so widely accepted as a medicinal plant is marvelous. Not only was it highly regarded as a treatment for hernia, but was valued as a cure for various bladder and kidney-related maladies such as dropsy, cystitis and kidney-stones. It has also been used as a healing poultice for ulcers. The Cincinnati Lancet - Clinic, Volume 16; Volume 55, p. 480, documented medicinal uses of Herniaria.

Whether for good or ill, Herniaria has fallen into disuse by physicians. Gardeners, however, have discovered less controversial applications. Because it produces an evergreen, practically indestructible mat, it is favored as a ground cover. Foliage turns bronze-red in winter. It's somewhat drought-tolerant, so is suitable for xeriscaping. Because it's very tolerant of foot traffic, Herniaria makes a wonderful lawn substitute. It's also beautiful cascading over walls. Herniaria grows at a reasonable rate, covering ground as a good ground cover should, but is easy to control. The mat is right dense, so tends to smother weeds very effectively. Some gardeners collect plants because of their special interests. Herniaria would be a good choice for medicinal herb gardens.

Herniaria thrives in full sun to partial shade in USDA climate zones 6 to 9, though some gardeners have reported it growing in zones 5 and 11. It tolerates a wide variety of soil types with pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.

Before you plant, take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for testing. The results will specify any soil amendments needed.

If your soil is not friable, prepare the planting bed by cultivating at least 6 inches deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 10 inches deep. Compost may be incorporated into the soil. Incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4 inches to 6 inches of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Space the plants approximately 12 inches apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container. Water the plants in the pots, then drain. Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the root balls. Do not cover entirely the root balls with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed. Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 1 inch deep.

Though arguable whether Rupture Wort is actually an effective treatment for hernias, I should think that such a low-maintenance plant might take some of the ache out of gardening.

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